from:"\"Russ Melody\""


Hey Dennis,

I don't think you'll get your price with that 
broker. He already has a 1971 35 listed for 
$35,000. And it comes with the classic Atomic 4 for power.


It's like he's living in the '80s.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

(available for 35,000 CDN dollars :)

At 06:08 AM 26/10/2014, you wrote:
I don't think that "asking" price is out of line 
at all. I'm asking $250,000 for TouchÃ©.  Dennis 
C. TouchÃ© 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List blanchard rigging



I agree with Jim and the others regarding 
Blanshard Rigging. He did my neighbour's gang 
(including new furler) and the service looked substandard.


I had Serge, Mainstay rigging, do mine a bunch of 
years ago and the service & price was top notch.


Cheers, Russ


At 09:46 AM 24/10/2014, you wrote:
Delta took over from Jon Blanshard at that 
location, looks like Jon has set up Blanshard Rigging on Hornby.


I was also seriously unimpressed with Delta, for 
a couple of reasons. They are under new 
ownership now, so maybe things have changed for 
the better. I wouldn't count on it. They are 
still primarily a big powerboat yard.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 24 October 2014 09:03, jimmy kelly via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

is now delta marine sidney bc Â  Â

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Re: Stus-List trouble in Newport.


Hi Danny,

find the office of whoever is looking after Petre's mooring field. I 
expect they have a diagram/map of the mooring field & numbers that 
will narrow your search by quite a bit.


Or get to the closest Yacht Club, a friendly local member is often 
your best resource for finding things.


Oops, do you have a dinghy?

Cheers, Russ
(a long way away)

From John Vigor's tailpiece:
Instinct is what allows a man to recognize a mistake the second time 
he makes it. Experience is what keeps him from admitting it the third time.






At 09:56 AM 26/10/2014, you wrote:
Ok after a very challenging delivery I'm stuck in Newport because I 
got in after dark I picked up a random mooring and they want big big 
money to stay.   I can't find petar's number 284 and I really don't 
know what to do.  Can anyone offer any advice or help.  They want 30 
per night out 700 for a month...


What a nightmare...

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Re: Stus-List trouble in Newport.


More info: (from www.cityofnewport.com)

Harbormaster: Timothy Mills . . . . . . . . . 401-845-5815
Channels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 & 16


Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I let my friend use my mooring?
 A: Yes! You may loan your mooring to another vessel for up to seven 
(7) consecutive nights upon prior written request to the Harbormaster 
and approval of the Harbormaster. This temporary use of a mooring is 
limited to fourteen (14) nights in any one year


I hope you have Petre's contact info to B.S. the harbour guy.

Good luck, Russ


At 11:58 AM 26/10/2014, you wrote:

Hi Danny,

find the office of whoever is looking after Petre's mooring field. I 
expect they have a diagram/map of the mooring field & numbers that 
will narrow your search by quite a bit.


Or get to the closest Yacht Club, a friendly local member is often 
your best resource for finding things.


Oops, do you have a dinghy?

Cheers, Russ
(a long way away)

From John Vigor's tailpiece:
Instinct is what allows a man to recognize a mistake the second time 
he makes it. Experience is what keeps him from admitting it the third time.






At 09:56 AM 26/10/2014, you wrote:
Ok after a very challenging delivery I'm stuck in Newport because I 
got in after dark I picked up a random mooring and they want big 
big money to stay.   I can't find petar's number 284 and I really 
don't know what to do.  Can anyone offer any advice or help.  They 
want 30 per night out 700 for a month...


What a nightmare...

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Re: Stus-List Another desperate attempt to maintain my dignity to weather

2014-10-28 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



And last night it was blowin' 62 knots at 
Solander Island, near Brooks Peninsula, with gusts to 78 knots.

It's kinda damp here on the Wet Coast.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island

At 08:37 PM 27/10/2014, you wrote:

It's raining.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 27 October 2014 19:28, Steve Thomas via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Frost along the north shore of Lake Erie last 
night, but warm and windy tonight.


- Original Message - From: "Wally Bryant 
via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 9:41 PM
Subject: Stus-List Another desperate attempt to maintain my dignity



Yes, I'm aware that is is so hot that the sweat 
running off my scalp has actually started to 
drip off my nose.But I'm still a nice guy...Â  (baby


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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

2014-10-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I'm guessing from previous discussions that you 
only need to worry about this USCG reg minutiae 
is if you have a Captain's license. Right?


:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

If you dream, dream big.
If you can think of a better world you will have a better world.
If pigs could fly imagine how good their wings would taste...



At 06:53 AM 30/10/2014, you wrote:

And then there was the discussion of whether 
putting LED bulbs in old fixtures would be 
compliant with USCG regs.Â  Many said no as the 
whole unit, both bulb and fixture, has to be 
certified.Â  And that was why for a long period 
there were so few USCG approved LED running 
lights; the approval process was long and 
involved and many companies did not want to expend the $ or effort


So, if an incident were to occur and it was 
discovered that the whole fixture was not in 
compliance [and lights were relevant to the 
incident] might liability fall differently and 
insurance companies not be forthcoming with any coverage?


Any current thoughts?Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Running Lights

Now this really confuses me, when I first went 
LED on my forward running lights, I replaced 
them with red and green, and then someone, I 
think at the boat show, or maybe in one of the 
boat magazines, said you had to have white 
coming through a colored lens, so I changed back to white.
Now my port running light is broken, and I am in 
the market, and now I am really confused!


Regards,

Bill Coleman
C&C 39

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

2014-10-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Bravo Rick.

Well stated. In my mind this clears things up very nicely.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

P.S. I'm a bit glad to know you sent us this from 
your iPad, but I don't know why... :)


At 09:14 PM 30/10/2014, you wrote:
The USCG minutia is contained in 33CFR84. You 
will find it in Annex I of the COLREGS, which 
you are required to have on your boat if you 
have a Captain's License. And which you probably have on you boat in any event.


33CFR88.05 says: The operator of each 
self-propelled vessel 12 meters (39.4') or more 
in length shall carry on board and maintain for 
ready reference a copy of the Inland Navigation Rules.


As has been pointed out before, a navigation 
light is certified by the light manufacturer to 
comply with the USCG requirements. IF YOU 
MANUFACTURE A BOAT FOR SALE IN THE USA YOU MAY 
ONLY USE A CERTIFIED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. If you are 
a boat owner, or building a boat for your own 
use, you can use any lighting device or bulb you 
chose, provided that the lights meet the 
requirements of COLREGS RULE 22 (visibility) and RULE 23 (light patterns).


Raise your hand if you have one of the Davis LED 
anchor lights that plug into a cigarette 
lighter, or a battery operated Perko anchor 
light you keep as a backup. Both meet COLREGS 22 
for boats less than 39 feet, but neither are 
certified by the manufacturer. At least mine aren't marked as certified.


I can find no direct reference to the nav lights 
required in 46CFR Subchapter C covering 
uninspected passenger vessels of less than 100 
tons carrying 6 or fewer passengers, other than 
the requirement to comply with COLREGS 22 & 23.


For small inspected passenger vessels up to 100 
tons carrying 100 or fewer passengers, 46CFR 
Subchapter T paragraph 183.420 says: All vessels 
must have navigation lights that are in 
compliance with the applicable sections of the 
International and Inland Navigation rules, 
except that a vessel of more than 198 meters 
(65') in length must also have navigation lights 
that meet UL 1104 "Standards for Marine 
Navigation Lights" or other standard specified by the Commandant.


Bottom line is that as a Captain you must comply 
with the light visibility and patterns specified 
in the COLREGS, and you must have a copy of the current COLREGS aboard.


If you don't have a captain's license and you 
boat is less than 12 meters you must comply with the COLREGS.


And if the boat is over 12 meters you need to 
comply and carry a copy of the COLREGS.


I could not find anything in the 2000+ pages of 
Federal Regulation I got while obtaining my 
Masters License that indicates you need to use a 
certified light, use the same type of bulb, or 
buy the same bulb used in building your boat - 
but you must comply with COLREGS 22&23.


Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 30, 2014, at 21:38, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:




I'm guessing from previous discussions that you 
only need to worry about this USCG reg minutiae 
is if you have a Captain's license. Right?


:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

If you dream, dream big.
If you can think of a better world you will have a better world.
If pigs could fly imagine how good their wings would taste...



At 06:53 AM 30/10/2014, you wrote:

And then there was the discussion of whether 
putting LED bulbs in old fixtures would be 
compliant with USCG regs.Ã  Many said no as 
the whole unit, both bulb and fixture, has to 
be certified.Ã  And that was why for a long 
period there were so few USCG approved LED 
running lights; the approval process was long 
and involved and many companies did not want to expend the $ or effort


So, if an incident were to occur and it was 
discovered that the whole fixture was not in 
compliance [and lights were relevant to the 
incident] might liability fall differently and 
insurance companies not be forthcoming with any coverage?


Any current thoughts?Ã

From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 9:24 AM
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Running Lights

Now this really confuses me, when I first went 
LED on my forward running lights, I replaced 
them with red and green, and then someone, I 
think at the boat show, or maybe in one of the 
boat magazines, said you had to have white 
coming through a colored lens, so I changed back to white.
Now my port running light is broken, and I am 
in the market, and now I am really confused!


Regards,

Bill Coleman
C&C 39


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<h

Re: Stus-List Planing/Surfing C&C hulls?

2014-10-31 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Rob,

This is from the notes section on the page of the link that Don sent.

The first seven hulls where built at Evelyns 
Formula Yachts shop in Groton, CT. (C&C Yachts 
(Middletown, RI USA), built the rest (after 
1984). The early hulls had Divinycell cores 
while the later ones had balsa cores.

(Disp. as boat was first offered is shown here.)


Cheers, Russ

If you dream, dream big.
If you can think of a better world you will have a better world.
If pigs could fly imagine how good their wings would taste...



At 09:17 AM 31/10/2014, you wrote:

Don,

What years did C&C build these?

Rob

On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 12:11 PM, D Harben via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

C&C yard built but designed by Robert Evelyn

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=1164



On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:59 AM, D Harben via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Evelynn 32-2

Huge smile fun... Mike Dale and I were sailing 
from Oakville to Hamilton Ontario for a regatta 
with strong winds off the shore. EVE of 
Destruction had no working instruments but I 
did have a handheld Garmin.Â  We were whooshing 
along eating our sandwiches, but we were 
curious to estimate our speed and eta 


Consistent 16 to 18 knots according to gps 

Don





On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:45 AM, Dave Moore via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hi Rob and Hank,
Did any of the C&C models have a particular 
strength in surfing (or planing) down wind in 
15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I 
recall talking to Rob Ball about the 
importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing 
performance but I was remiss in not asking 
what C&C models have the strongest surfing potential.Â

Thank you
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, henry evans via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hi Rob,

Your knowledge of the history of C&C designs 
is truly amazing. I enjoyed reading your tutorial.Â


I never knew Eric was in the kitchen 
business.Â  After I and a bunch of others 
left the faltering C&C, I spent 10 years in 
brick manufacturing which landed me in Des 
Moines, Iowa.Â  Exiting that business, I 
bought an Architectural Millwork company and 
two years later a kitchen cabinet 
manufacturing and remodeling company. We ran 
those two for 20 years, quadrupled their size 
and sold them to retire on our trawler.Â  And 
we did a few boat interior remodels as well, 
both power and sail. Our C&C 29 "Illusion" is 
still winning races on Lake Rathbun, in SE Iowa.


We are docked at the Naval Air Station Marina 
in Jacksonville, FL where Ann has been 
undergoing tests at Mayo Clinic.Â  As I look 
out into the mooring area I can see the 
distinctive lines of a C&C 35 MK I.Â  A few 
docks is a Landfall 38.Â  It is amazing how 
many C&C's we see as we travel up and down 
the ICW each year.Â  They are still the best looking boats on the water !


Cheers from Queen Ann's Revenge,

Hank

Â


On Thursday, October 30, 2014 4:32 PM, Robert 
Mazza via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Hi John,

Another interestingÂ mid Cuthbertson and 
Cassian design, before the creation of C&C 
Yachts. Big George tells me that Psyche II, 
designed for Bob Grant, a future Commodore of 
RCYC, was essentially a sister to Ivanhoe II 
which proceeded Psyche by a couple of years. 
Ivanhoe II was design number 64-4 for Comm. 
Ray Engholm, also of RCYC. She was built in 
aluminium at Engholm's aluminium fabrication 
company Macotta. In actual fact Erich 
Bruckmann installed the interior in IvanhoeÂ 
after he left Metro Marine and had gone into 
the kitchen installation business. It was 
probability the building the interior on 
Ivanhoe which kept him in the boat business. 
The building of the interior at the same time 
as the hull led to all sorts of problems with 
the aluminium welds in the hull, but that's 
another story! Â Psyche was design number 
66-4, and followed the Redwing 30, Inferno 
II, and Red Jacket, and immediately preceded 
the Redline 41 and the Whitby 45. Therefore, 
unlike Ivanhoe, Psyche was designed with a 
separate keel and rudder. She was also built 
in aluminium by Enholm's company Macotta, but 
I'm not sure who installed the interior. 
Possibly Dick Kneulman at Ontario Yachts. Â 
Ivanhoe, which had a full keel and attached 
rudder was also later modified to the 
separate keel and rudder configuration. 
Neither boat was specifically successful on 
the race course, since the Ivanhoe hull lines 
preceded Red Jacket, and Engholm himself was 
a tad more conservative then Perry Connolly 
in the type of boat he wanted. The 
Ivanhoe/Psyche "sisters" were part of the 
transition in yacht design taking place in 
the 1960s. It's great to see Psyche still looking so good. A remarkable boat.


Bob Grant wo

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

2014-11-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Bernard,

If raw water cooled it is recommneded to remove 
thermostat beofre anti-freeze step.


See note at cooling section.
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

racing tomorrow, forecast is for 20 knots S/E wind, we can hope



At 11:51 AM 01/11/2014, you wrote:


I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine.

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year 
rather than hire someone to do it. I tried to 
follow the instructions in the manual for 
draining the engine and putting in plumber's 
anti freeze.Â  I did this by loosening the 
intake water hose and running the motor until 
the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems 
that I should have run the engine until it was 
warm so that the thermostat would open and then 
the antifreeze would have been circulated 
throughout the engine. Since I live in a harsh 
climate where the temperature can get to -40 
degress Celsius, I am concerned about my engine 
freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.


Â Also, I would like to know what other owners 
of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines do when they 
winterize in terms of taking out the batteries 
or if they disconnect them etc.Â  Also, what 
else should be done to winterize my boat other 
than following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C 
Owners's Manual. Do most owners "fog" the engine 
by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 engine oil.


Any advice would be very helpful.
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

2014-11-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Agreed.
Do not use an autopilot in Bute Inlet or really close to Sangster Island. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

At 08:41 PM 02/11/2014, you wrote:
We have a few magnetic anomalies around here, I 
know not to put Otto in charge anywhere near 
them. Most are on the charts. Some are scary finding them.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 November 2014 19:05, Rick Brass via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Good rule, Dennis.

Â

The bridge is, of course, iron and will alter 
the magnetic field seen by your compass to some 
greater or lesser extent, depending on the 
amount of iron and the proximity to your fluxgate compass.


Â

I was sitting next to the tiller pilot on my 25 
one night, and had my car keys in my hip pocket. 
When I got up to look at a channel marker I was 
passing near, the boat changed course rapidly. 
Suddenly I was not just âclose toâ the mark, 
my standing rigging was tangled in it.


Â

It was a very expensive lesson in just how 
sensitive those little fluxgate compasses can be.


Â

Â

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

Â

Â

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 9:25 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Â

Just a caution for those who regularly use an 
autosteerer.Â  The Admiral and I were using the 
wheelpilot (Simrad WP30) as we passed under the 
Dauphin Island last weekend on our way to Pensacola.


In the middle of the bridge, the wheelpilot went 
bonkers and steered hard to starboard.Â  Luckily 
I was right there and disengaged it before we 
hit the fenders guarding the passage.Â


No idea what caused it.Â  Underground cables, 
gremlins, space aliens, etc.?Â  There was a 
line of overhead power cables but they were about a tenth of a mile behind us.


All I know is new rule for the boat now.Â  No autosteering through a bridge.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Anyone in Toronto near outer harbor marina?

2014-11-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Now this brings back memories.

We made the decision to sell our 60' cutter, Melody Dawn, after 
owning & finishing her for 18 years. When it was obvious the mill 
wasn't going to shutdown and have us go to charter & freight in the 
South Pacific. It was truly a sad day that we moved her out of the 
marina for the new owners.


I thought after having continuos boat ownership for 30+ years that I 
would take up to a year to find the next one. The search lasted 8 
weeks before the offer was accepted on the 35' mk-1. :)


Cheers, Russ



At 10:17 AM 07/11/2014, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_169E312F80B4C044BE2DC1780A7DE72F020CBDhfxexc11impgroupc_"

Danny

In November 2007 I drove to our marina to show interested people our 
boat at the time (Niagara 26 Full Tilt 2).  They agreed to buy it on 
the spot.  The drive home was quite sad.


By the time I arrived home 90 minutes later I was already scheming 
about the next boat which we bought ten days later (J27 Nut Case).


I know the sad feeling you describe.  However the fun of looking for 
and buying a new boat will quickly erase that.


Mike
Persistence
Frers 33

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Danny Haughey via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 2:02 PM
To: joel.aron...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; stevanpla...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone in Toronto near outer harbor marina?

Yea, that saying about a boat owners happiest days didn't ring true 
for me.  I walked away a little heartbroken...



From my Android phone


 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 11/07/2014 11:57 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Stevan Plavsa 
<stevanpla...@gmail.com>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone in Toronto near outer harbor marina?

Danny,

Congrats on being boatless!  Someone got a great boat!  I hope they 
are signing up on the list!


Joel

On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 11:37 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

What kind of recon? Are you considering buying a boat that's located there?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Nov 7, 2014 at 11:17 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Guys,

Looking for someone to do some recon in Toronto Outer Harbor Marina.
Is there anyone near there that might be of some help?

Danny
Now boatless...
Massachusetts

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Re: Stus-List 35-1 drivetrain replacement (prop, engine HP, transmission ratio)

2014-11-09 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Carl,

My change to 1" shaft was not a big deal, small expense in the scheme 
of repower. No change to strut except new cutlass bearing (required 
anyhow). Kiwiprop recommended the size & pitch. Pitch is no big deal 
since it's easily adjustable, unlike a Maxprop.


It looks like their smallest diameter is 14.5". You nailed the hub 
vs. tip location relationship that allows a larger diameter prop. It 
also helps that our hull sweeps up nicely in that area, so any gain 
aft equals big rewards.


http://www.kiwiprops.co.nz/cms/index.php/therange/kfp-composite-stainless

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

the following message on the subject was sent to the list last June:

I changed the prop shaft from 7/8' to 1" diameter.  And changed the 
location of the prop taper so it overhangs (aft) the cutlass bearing 
a bit more to get the tip clearance. (Reminding you that when you 
change an engine type, the output flange may not be in the same 
location as the A4.)


The strut and location is original. A new cutlass bearing is 
available with the same shell O.D. and a 1" prop shaft I.D.


I put in a "running take out" Yanmar 2QM20 which is a old style 
brute of an industrial type engine. Long stroke (for good torque) 
and slower RPM than modern but far too tall for the 35 mk-1. The 
Kiwi-prop people calculated I could swing a 17 1/2" wheel.
I went with 16" because I wanted to get a Kubota block engine in 
there eventually. The Kubota is a higher RPM engine. In Yanmar it 
would be closer in comparison to 3GM series.


As Dennis mentions the max diameter swing plane is important. A 
folding & feathering prop tend to have a hub which places the blades 
further aft than a fixed prop. The Kiwi-prop tips are the furthest 
aft of any prop that I have seen.


 In summary, same strut & location, 14" folder will be no problem, 
suggest 1" prop shaft to handle extra torque, go for low-profile engine.


Cheers, Russ

BTW, I found my Kubota engine, an old Universal diesel 25 HP and 
it's sitting in my shop awaiting install but the Yanmar keeps 
running and now it's summertime!




At 06:59 AM 09/11/2014, you wrote:
Having searched the archives and not found this info, I feel the 
need to ask...


I am committed to a re-power this winter and am surprised at the 
difficulty in choosing an appropriate prop which then leads to the 
appropriate engine HP and transmission choices. I already have input 
from two other 35-1 owners but am looking for a wider array of 
input. My old engine/tranny/prop is the venerable Atomic-4, 1:1 
tranny, 12x6 folding prop. The new engine will be a BetaMarine... 
but either 20 or 25 HP depending on how much power a prop that FITS 
can absorb through a choice of a 1.45:1, 2:1, or 2.6:1 transmission.


As I really don't want to face the added expense of upsizing the 
shaft from 7/8" to 1" (even a 14" prop can be safely driven on a 
7/8" Aquamet shaft) or worse - moving and replacing the strut to 
gain prop diameter - please provide whatever real-world info you 
have on the prop (make, diameter, pitch); engine HP, and 
transmission ratio that you are using on your 35-1.


It turns out that the prop make/model is critical due to the 
effective hub length. For instance, my current folder places the 
blades 5 5/8" behind the strut (5" hub, with 5/8" exposed shaft). 
The prop I am considering (Flexofold 13") has only a 4.5" hub 
length, while a Martec 14" appears to be a beefy 9" from hub to 
blade pivot. So the length of the hub has a large effect on tip 
clearance. As Dave Gerr (The Propellor Handbook) recommends an 
absolute minimum of 10% clearance (a 14" prop thus needs 7" + 1.4" 
clearance from shaft center to hull) - I only have 8" clearance with 
a 4.5" hub) - a longer prop hub allows for greater prop diameter (a 
very good thing). So real-world experience - including your 
experience with speed, prop noise, and vibration from using a small 
blade tip to hull clearance would be invaluable to me.


The problem is complex enough that Flexofold actually refused to 
recommend a prop, tranny drive ratio, and HP requirement; and 
recommended that I work with a boat-builder to work out these choices.


Your actual numbers and knowledge will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Carl Gerstle
Impulse
C&C 35-1 #149
Portsmouth, RI
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Re: Stus-List West Marine leaves Canada

2014-11-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Steve,

For other options, you could try leaving Toronto... :)

I wonder about the fate of the Nanaimo West 
Marine store, serving a population area of 
120,000 or so. Especially with the Harbour 
Chandler a mile from the boats and willing to 
match Vancouver pricing on everything and Internet pricing on many things.


The comment on being "highly seasonal" is a 
little odd too. I'm just about on my way to 
putter this afternoon on ship's husbandry tasks.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1




At 10:39 AM 10/11/2014, you wrote:
That's a bummer .. the two marine stores I 
frequent, West Marine and Genco. Genco has 
already closed it's doors on Queens Quay and now 
when West Marine closes there will be nowhere to 
go "in a pinch". Everyone else is quite a drive 
for me. What other options are there on Toronto's downtown waterfront???


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Good question.Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â
They never even tried in South Western Ontario.
- Original Message -
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 1:10 PM
Subject: Stus-List West Marine leaves Canada



Wonder why?





Â





West Marine plans exit from Canadian market




--
Marine retailer West Marine will close 10 stores 
in Canada during the next few years, ending its presence in the country.


âWe have some fantastic associates up in 
Canada. This was a very difficult decision for 
us,â West Marine CEO Matthew Hyde told 
analysts during a quarterly earnings call Oct. 
23. âThat said, this is all about ensuring 
that when leases come up that weâre making the 
right determination about where we invest our money.â


The company has seven leases coming up 
throughout the coming year, âso weâre going 
to be in Canada for quite some time,â Hyde said.


But the leases that were coming up âdidnât 
meet our minimum hurdles,â he said. Also, 
Canada faces some additional expenses. âSo we 
will be closing our stores in Canada over the next few years,â Hyde said.


With the exception of the Toronto store, where 
the company has the lease termination at the end 
of this year, the six additional stores will 
operate âbasically through the season,â said CFO Thomas Moran.


âAs you can imagine, Canada is a pretty highly 
seasonal market. So thatâs just a callout about next year.


But beyond that, the impact on our top-line 
sales and on in our contribution and 
profitability is immaterial [in 2015],â Moran said.
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Re: Stus-List Mainsail track gate

2014-11-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Some time ago, maybe a few years. It was suggested on this list about
using a door threshold aluminum strip to fabricate a mainsail mast gate.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89073-81-09415_4294766237__?productId=3121075&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D2&facetInfo=

Cheap & cheerful. The idea... not the guy. Although it might have
been Jim Watts, then it's the guy too (for cheerful). :)

I haven't done it yet but I am going to try, one of these days.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:04 AM 14/11/2014, you wrote:

Hey gang wondering if anyone here knows where I can find a
replacement for my mainsail gate. I've tried to attach a picture but
this site wont allow it due to email size. It's basically just two
pieces of stainless 3/4" x 4" and it screws to either side of the
mast track to keep the slugs in place. I have half, and the
Northwest Arm has the other. I have looked at a few boats locally
and they don't seem to have the same setup. The Binnacle couldn't
source one so I figured I would check here next. Its off of an '87 33mk2.

Thanks!

Greg
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Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

2014-11-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Joe,

Mine are just how Dennis describes it. Screwed up 
from cabin, exposed head & finishing washer. 
Nothing fancy, no interior grabrail that mates to it.


They have been off & on twice. I will do it again this winter.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:58 AM 13/11/2014, you wrote:
Touche's aft handrails are screwed from 
underneath with flat head screws.Â  The screws 
have finish washers for support against the headliner.


I've removed and re-bedded them a couple times.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


 As for the looped handrails aft  anyone know how they come off??

Thanks

Joe Della Barba

Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump for C & C 1983 24

2014-11-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Patrick,

Get something like this:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234226|2234227&id=1207040
and put it to the sink drain or cockpit drain if you don't want a 
dedicated outboard discharge. The discharge head will be fine. 
Obviously for either choice the connection must be well above 
waterline level AND should include a pump discharge loop. (to account 
for heeled situatons)


Some on the list may whine that it won't pass normal survey standards 
but for your application it will be fine. They don't understand rain 
like we do. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 03:27 PM 14/11/2014, you wrote:
Water is coming into my bilge this winter much faster than before, 
luckily it is sweet and I'm going to be looking for ways to locate 
and seal the leaks. Since that will take time I want to install a 
bilge pump. My interim plan will be to have it pump into the sink, 
does anyone know if the hydrostatic head will be too high for the 
small size of pump that will fit in my bilge? Thanks in advance.


Patrick Wesley, The Boat, Sidney BC
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Re: Stus-List Sail Magazine Best Boats 2015: C&C 30

2014-11-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Probably the 35! :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:46 PM 20/11/2014, you wrote:
Wow, 19 boats?  That's amazing.  What was the 
boat that tied with the C&C 30 for Best Boat?




--
From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "Heaton, Ken" , "CNC 
boat owners, cnc-list" 

Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 3:43:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail Magazine Best Boats 2015: C&C 30

Its good to see the boat is being well 
received.  They are taking orders for #19. It is 
slightly less expensive than a Farr 28â and is 
designed for more than around the buoy racing.


It is supposed to be a one design in the 
Annapolis NOOD in the spring.  Maybe I can catch a ride?


I have nothing against J Boats, but its nice to 
see a little competition out there!


Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Thu, Nov 20, 2014 at 3:28 PM, Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Sail Magazine Best Boats 2015: C&C 30

"We donât often have ties in our Best Boats 
competition, but with two very different and 
equally exciting boats in the 30ft-and-under 
performance category, we just couldnât go with a single winner.


The first of the two is the C&C 30. If youâve 
been racing sailboats for a while, youâre 
undoubtedly familiar with C&C Yachts, a 
racer-cruiser manufacturer that produced plenty 
of winning boats in the 1970s and 1980s. Now the 
company is back at the forefront of racing 
design with this Mark Mills-conceived 30-footer, 
which C&C hopes to develop into a 
high-performance, offshore-capable one-design 
class thatâs both easy to sail and affordable 
compared to other grand prix boats."


Read More: 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/best-boats/best-boats-2015-cc-30


Ken H.



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--
Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List 35-1 for sale

2014-11-21 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Not so unusual for C&C in the early 80s to have babystay, checks & 
inline shrouds on a masthead rig, bendy in the day. That mast looks 
like it might be a Kenyon and is defiantly not the original extrusion 
that I have.


So this ol' girl is a mature CCA based design "updated" with mature 
IOR go-fast thinking. I like her.
If I win Lotto tonight then she might come to Canada's Wet Coast for 
a bit o' fun PHRF racing.


BTW, do you think 1970 is correct?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1 (1972)



At 11:36 AM 21/11/2014, you wrote:
When I look at picture #10, it looks like this boat has both back 
stays and check stays, as well as a back stay.  Very unusual for a 
mast head rigged boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/11/21 2:03 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
I think those are actually check stays rather than running backs 
based on the angle.


I don't think I have ever seen a listing with so many 
pictures.  Some kind of new record.  The boat looks good but the 
hatch behind mast seems different and maybe too large?


Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Neil Gallagher via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, November 21, 2014 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 for sale

http://www.boatquest.com/listing/134563/1970-35-ft-dot--c--c-35-mark-i.html#.VG9t-PIo6po

Some interesting features for a 35-1...inboard shrouds, running backs.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


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Re: Stus-List Winter worries

2014-11-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That's not really practical for me. I often work alone on the boat. :)

Cheers, Russ

At 09:35 AM 20/11/2014, you wrote:

Fear of fires has been the reason I don't leave ANY electric space 
heaters on while not on the boat.  I use a ceramic heater while 
working on it through the winter but only under supervision.


Josh
On Nov 20, 2014 12:08 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Speaking of heaters, what types do you use?  We have been using an 
oil radiator for years because I thought they would be safer.  But I 
heard on caught fire on a boat last year and am a little less 
confident about that now.


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Stus-List blooper explained

2014-12-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Guys,

The pic in the link below just came to me from one of our crew. This 
is the best blooper shot I've seen (1983). It's hung from Amazing 
Grace, at 45' and built in the custom shop for Mr. Herron. RCYC. She 
sailed in three Admiral's Cup in England in the early '80s.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/91mtn3cozon0sg8/photo50.JPG?dl=0

I'm a little puzzle with the reaching strut near the forestay, above 
the pulpit. The spinnaker take-down line is also there, but what is 
the strut doin?


BTW, A G is currently for sail (but aren't they all :). P.M. if you 
want any details.


Cheers, Russ




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Re: Stus-List blooper explained

2014-12-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Ah yes, got it. The "line" goes to the chainplate, not to the middle
padeye at the rail.

Thanks Greg.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:24 AM 05/12/2014, you wrote:

The "reaching strut" is a spreader?

On 12/5/2014 10:58 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Guys,

The pic in the link below just came to me from one of our crew.
This is the best blooper shot I've seen (1983). It's hung from
Amazing Grace, at 45' and built in the custom shop for Mr. Herron.
RCYC. She sailed in three Admiral's Cup in England in the early '80s.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/91mtn3cozon0sg8/photo50.JPG?dl=0

I'm a little puzzle with the reaching strut near the forestay,
above the pulpit. The spinnaker take-down line is also there, but
what is the strut doin?

BTW, A G is currently for sail (but aren't they all :). P.M. if you
want any details.

Cheers, Russ

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Re: Stus-List Quality Construction

2014-12-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



The other answer is "we don't know yet, but it's been some time..."

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:55 PM 10/12/2014, you wrote:
You have to know your boat.  When I first considered buying Stella 
Blue I asked this list (on Sailnet at the time) whether it  she 
could cross an ocean.  No one knew me then, and the reply I remember 
was "It's the sailor, not the boat."


Wal


Danny wrote:
I chatted with a guy who owns a Bene 393.  He has circumnavigated 
twice with it.  for whatever can be taken from that...   Danny



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Stus-List rum answer & questions

2014-12-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Rum is the answer. What is your first and last drink of the day? :)

Any other questions on the subject?

Cheers, Russ

At 08:29 PM 12/12/2014, you wrote:


Rum is the answer.  What was the question?

Bill Coleman


 Original message 
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Date: 12/12/2014 7:32 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Chuck S , 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Annapolis/South River sail Saturday

Rum.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 December 2014 at 14:56, Chuck S via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Joel,
What a great offer.  46 degree weather, but I'd love to join you for 
a sailing fix. I'll let you know later tonight.
I'll bring some snacks and my homemade chilli as a warmup.  I guess 
Kahlua or Bailey's would be better in coffee or cocoa than cold beer?


Maybe the cold weather sailors would suggest the best libations for 
cold weather sailing?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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Re: Stus-List Indigo is for sale.

2014-12-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Rich,

Give me a shout when you arrive.

Boat prices have softened a lot in the past few 
years. Unfortunately, not too far away, the 
Seattle prices went up a wee bit, since their 
economy seems to be improving (and we're heading for the ditch).


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Nanaimo




At 12:50 AM 16/12/2014, you wrote:
After a few years of equivocating and 
procrastinating, I have finally decided to 
relocate.  We are moving to Nanaimo BC, the 
other end of Canada, and intend to make our home 
there for the foreseeable future. We plan to hit 
the road on January 8, weather permitting, for a 
three week or so odyssey and arrive around the end of January.


The sad part of this will be leaving Indigo, our 
LF 38 behind. Itâs simply not practical to 
ship her to the west coast and the North West 
Passage is a bit too ice choked at this time of 
year to sail. So, she is up for sale. Details 
can be seen at: 
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-halifax/sailboat-c-c-landfall-38-a-great-christmas-present/1039227171?src=topAdSearch


Iâll still be lurking and, who knows, may wind 
up with another C&C. A good thing.


Cheers to all.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.






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Re: Stus-List rear scupper clogged

2014-12-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Joe,

When we bought Sweet she was a neglected orphan. All four scuppers 
were slow to drain, clogged with fibre & muck. We got a toilet 
plunger before the home delivery and had at it with buckets of water 
sloshing about the sole to clear them well enough.


Nowadays whenever I wash the boat, a garden hose with nozzle is 
directed right into each scupper. Nary a problem now.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

East Vancouver Island and boy, did it rain today! At least it's on 
the warm side...8 degrees C or 47F



At 03:53 PM 20/12/2014, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0259_01D01C86.45901410"
Content-Language: en-us

My rear cockpit scuppers are constantly getting plugged up. Anyone 
else have this issue? Drives me nuts.


Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List rear scupper clogged

2014-12-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hey Dennis,

What's the weather report for New Orleans?  or maybe I don't want to know?

Cheers, Russ

At 07:58 PM 20/12/2014, you wrote:
Ditto Russ' procedure.Â  Hose with 
nozzle.Â  Several hard blasts couple times a 
year.Â  If necessary, wrap a rag around the 
nozzle to direct all the pressure into the scupper.


At haul out, clean the thruhulls and paint the 
inside with a good antifouling paint to prevent 
marine growth from clogging the exit.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Dec 20, 2014 at 5:53 PM, Joe Della Barba 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


My rear cockpit scuppers are constantly getting 
plugged up. Anyone else have this issue? Drives me nuts.


Â

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

Â

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

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Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

2014-12-21 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



To all Listers & Lurkers,

Melody & I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter.

Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America 
between ~ 3 - 6 PM local time.


A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also 
have a New Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well.


We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and 
maybe some hot rums. :)


Wish you could be here, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
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Re: Stus-List Dorade

2014-12-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Peter and welcome fellow lister,

Try this for search ideas:
http://www.stevestonmarine.com/Marine-Boat-Hose-and-Cowl-Vents

Were you out sailing this day or "just checking the boat" which is 
code for spending time aboard with a hot rum and looking out the hatch?


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island




At 11:06 AM 27/12/2014, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_00F5_01D021C5.1E4F93F0"
Content-Language: en-ca

Hello all: this is my first post on cnc-list. I carelessly knocked a 
vent overboard. Does anyone know of a source? I expect it was the 
original item that fits over a 3.25" spigot.

Thanks.
Peter
'79 C&C30
"Oenone"
Vancouver BC.

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Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain

2014-12-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Dan,

As you probably know, raindrops bounce. You must 
keep the bounce out of the vent hole into the 
boat.  What you linked is essentially a hood, 
next is required a baffle to keep the wet from 
getting below and a box to make it all elegant.


With this arrangement it does not need something 
that can close during downpours.  However, if you 
simply attach a vent then you will need something 
that can close during downpours.


The current best arrangement was popularized by 
the racing yacht Dorade and became known as the dorade vent.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 03:51 PM 27/12/2014, you wrote:
Iâm wanting to install a vent on my C&C 26 and 
curious on how the rain is kept out?  Seems I 
live in the Pacific North West where we have an 
abundant of moisture.  Does it have something 
that can be closed during downpours.


Thanks,

Dan






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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

2015-01-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Fuel cost comparison is a red herring.
For most people on this list the amount spent on motoring boat fuel 
this winter is remarkably the same whether the auxiliary power is 
electric, gasoline or diesel. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:13 PM 12/01/2015, you wrote:

As gasoline engines go the Atomic 4 has a flat torque curve.
There are various version of the A4 around, but the common 30 HP
variant had about 35 ft/lbs at 1000 RPM, and "peaks" around
43 ft/lbs. From about 1800 RPM to 3500 RPM it stayed within
about +/- 1.5 ft/lbs.

If you compare the Beta Marine 25 HP diesel ( BD902 ) it has a
similar curve, maybe +/- 2.5 ft/lbs from 1600 to 3600.

Since HP come from torque x RPM the HP curves are similar.

 On a 27 - 32 moderate displacement sailboat the Atomic 4 and
a 1:1 transmission was an adequate match. A target would be to
maintain 70 - 80% of hull speed at around 1800 RPM with some
head wind and seas.  On an A4 that would be around 13 HP.

Fuel economy? I went by a gas station earlier today. Gas was
$0.81 a litre, diesel was $1.15 a litre. Ouch!

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design --> dumb phones

2015-01-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

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Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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I see that shit as typical code generated by the 
dumb phones people use, 'cause they're "mobile" 
and must respond to the list on their 'device' 
and probably outside the office. For us old guys, 
it is assumed that list response is best done 
during office hours at your desktop machine and 
on company time. :)   sorry retired guys and other unnamed layabouts Wally


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



It's hard to weed your question out of all the 
nested quotes, but you may just have the wrong 
keyboard selected on your computer. I normally 
just see that weird stuff in people's quotes, 
and I'm set to Canadian English/US standard. I think.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 January 2015 at 15:35, Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
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Is everybody else getting a bunch of symbols in 
their emails? The one below has an - a with a 
carot on top, followed by a euro sign and a 
trademark symbol and a small s - all in the 
place that a single quote should be.

Â

Â
Gary
- Original Message -
From: jtsails via CnC-List
To: Chuck S ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design

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--
Not sure I would say that this particular boat 
is in the realm of racer/cruiser that our old 
C&CÃ¢s were. It is us used as a 
racer/daysailer only. Very optimized for racing 
and extremely well equipped and crewed. Their 
team has raced together for a number of years 
and are very good. Owned by friends of mine. 
They finally got enough wind today to do well 
against the Farr 280Ã¢s and are expecting a good day tomorrow tw too.

James Taylor
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
Â
From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 5:55 PM
To: Jerome Tauber ; 
CNC boat owners, cnc-list

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design
Â
This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and 
is free to subscribed members. Please help us 
keep it free by donating today at:

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--
Wow, the J-122, a racer/crusier like C&C used to 
stand for, is doing well against the all carbon sport boats.Â  Just sayin.

Â
Â
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
Â

--
From: "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 4:07:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design
Â
This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and 
is free to subscribed members. Please help us 
keep it free by donating today at:

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Â
Well the C&C 30 One Design has not been doing 
well.Â Â  To be fair, the driver is an amateur 
up against some pros and he has beaten some Farr 
280's on time but not on handicap.Â  See current 
results to date below.Â  Jerry C&C27 MKV. J&J.Â Â


PHRF_Triple_ToD_2_ToT Division
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  PHRF 1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  1. GBR 007Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  RedÂ Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Farr 280Â Â Â 
Â  Joe WoodsÂ Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  1Â Â Â Â  1Â Â 
Â Â  2Â Â Â Â  2Â Â Â Â  1Â Â Â Â  3Â Â Â Â  3Â 
Â Â Â  4Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  17.0Â Â Â
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  2. USA 52939Â Â Â Â  TeamworkÂ Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â  J 122Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Robin TeamÂ Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  3Â Â Â Â  6Â Â Â Â  3Â Â Â 
Â  7Â Â Â Â  6Â Â Â Â  1Â Â Â Â  1Â Â Â Â  1Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  28.0Â Â Â
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  3. USA 006Â Â Â Â

Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

2015-01-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Okay, here goes:

Windoze XP SP3 and Eudora 7.1.0.9 (the original, not the one running 
under a modern shell) and Avira anit-virus


No problem receiving message body, except the occasional field code 
imbedded if sent from mobile device


Now you all know that I'm a tech dinosaur. :)

Cheers, Russ
HP Pavilion 1324, east side Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 23/01/2015, you wrote:
IT might be a big help to Stu, if when you report an issue, you 
mention what type of device you are using, the operating system 
name, and version and whatever email or browser client you are 
using. Just saying, "It's broke" doesn;t help solve the problem, 
which might be limited to just one particular thing you all have in 
common. I'm using Windows 7 on a desktop PC with Mozilla Thunderbird 
for email, and it works fine for me. I also have no problem with it 
on my Android phone.


Bill Bina


On 1/23/2015 10:06 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:


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Add me to the list

jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
C&C 39 TM


On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
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Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

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Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list has subject
and then just the signature tag "This list is provided by ... " (see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List 
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List

[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: C&C Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Re: Stus-List Windows and floorboards add strength

2015-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Chuck.

Please stop at "I'm not an engineer."

You are correct in the window muse. The design 
does add to overall deck stiffness which 
contributes to structure stiffness. This is not 
to be confused with increased righting moment by anyone, I hope.


Regarding floorboards, do you mean the sole or 
the floors? And by stiffening the design, do you 
mean "She can carry more sail with this 
improvement!"  (the aforementioned right moment) or a less springy sole?
There are far too many areas to list in weight 
saving activities before considering a move to an aluminum honeycomb sole.


I ask not facetiously but because Amazing Grace 
has Kevlar reinforce floors and a normal teak & 
holly plywood sole. This boat was a "no expense 
spared" racing machine in the early 80s, to show 
they had it figured out way back when.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

At 09:23 PM 13/02/2015, you wrote:

I'm not an engineer but I do re-engineer many systems they dream up.
I think the fixed windows do add strength and 
without them the structure has to be weaker.
They help support the coachroof which does 
create an arch between the flatter deck sections.


Also, floorboards.  You might stiffen up an old 
design by changing from wooden plywood to an aluminum honeycomb sandwich.
But would the cost be worth it?  Probably not 
unless you needed to replace them.





--
From: "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
To: "dwight" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 2:53:25 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

Dwight â if I might jump in here, my 
understanding is that the glued-in acrylic ports 
became a unified part of the cabintop structure, 
and stiffened the structure; NOT that they made 
the boat stiffer in terms of sailing characteristics.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 12, 2015, at 1:15 PM, dwight veinot via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Rick

Is it really true that the designers at C&C 
expected glued on acryllic ports to stiffen the whole boat


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



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Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

2015-02-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Bruno.

If this has been mentioned then I missed it.
Please tell your friend (Fred) that a very 
important step in a successful prop shaft install 
is to true the flange face with it mounted to the 
shaft. Even with a brand new custom shaft & brand 
new coupling half, it is good to true the face 
before install. The shaft is easily bent a wee bit in handling.
The truing process is really basic in the 
machining world, even an apprentice might be tasked to it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:10 PM 18/02/2015, you wrote:

Hello listers,

Thanks for the support, i received some good 
tips and it helps to limit potential errors.

here is the update on the situation. the cutlass 
and drive saver plate are already on order. the 
most complicated part is to find or calculate 
the right lenght of the prop shaft. the actual 
broken one was new before departure last july, 
as is the PSS and the cutlass that will be 
replaces as a precaution. my friend wants to 
have all the parts, and then do the repair with 
the boat on a rustic travel lift nearby.

the boat is a CS 36 Merlin 1988 with a Volvo 
engine, the transmission has a 4 inches flange. 
the shaft is 1 inch diameter and "about" 66 to 
70 inches long. Mine is 44 on my 33mkII So its 
pretty long...The prop is a Martec So everything 
points to a standard SAE  Taper That is 
usually found on our boats, the key is 1/4 and 
the coupling is actually a split coupling that 
could fit on a "on the spot home cut to the 
right lenght, not face fitted" shaft. but if he 
could have the shaft lenght from a good source, 
a new fitted coupling would be on order.

I have been in contact with DeepBlue yacht 
supply in Fort Lauderdale and it seems easy to 
order from their website. there is 3-4 days 
production time before shipping. The good 
reviews from this list are reassuring. Thanks.

SO, i am still looking for the original shaft 
lenght, are the CS plans available at the 
Maritime museum too? Any others sources for that 
info that i could get my hands on before 
tomorrow? I doubt Holland Marine has that info but will try tomorrow.

ALSO, we are still looking for someone that 
could pickup the shaft at DeepBlue yacht supply 
and bring it few blocks away at Reggie Express 
services that Fly from there to Georgetown, 
Exumas. we want to save the additional shipping 
delay from UPS. Its just few kilometers away...

Thanks for helping a fellow sailor and his 
family. the CS is still a very nice boat!

Bruno Lachance
Becassine,33 mkII

EnvoyÃ© de mon iPad

> Le 2015-02-18 Ã  17:44, Bill Connon via 
CnC-List  a Ã©crit :

>
> Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Bruno,
>> You are a very good friend.
>>
>> What make and model boat does your friend 
have?   1" Shaft".  Length?   Keyway 
dimensions?  Taper for the prop? Cutless bearing OD and length?

>>
>> There is a slim chance someone on this list 
has replaced theirs so your friend may have to 
haul the boat, remove the shaft, measure 
everything and order the right parts?  If he's 
doing all this he should also replace the piece 
of hose between the shaft log and the stuffing box if it's older than 10 years?

>>
>> I doubt anybody but the builder keeps prop 
shaft dimensions for a specific boat.  Best of luck.

>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>> 
> I imagine that Bruno will be back with more 
details but in the meantime the boat involved 
is a CS Merlin 36 ft. long. If somebody knows 
of a CS newsgroup similar to our C&C group it could be of a big help.

>
> Bill
> Caprice 1
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

2015-02-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Thanks Dennis!

That is my thought too. I'm glad you presented it.

Get the sink closer to centreline.
Seems like a lot of "newer" design have that 
common flaw. I wonder why the C&C team didn't recognize it ... :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

BTW, it's not really siphoning into so much as flooding out of, the sink.

At 06:51 PM 20/02/2015, you wrote:

1) Don't put your wallet in the sink!
2) "Upgrade" to a 35-1.  It doesn't do this.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 5:32 PM, mike amirault 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
On a Â C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt 
(or lake) water filling up the sink in the head 
when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was 
filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug 
was in or the drain cock closed. I suppose the 
proper thing for a seaman to do would be to 
close the drain cock but this can be 
inconvenient when cruising.Â I installed a check 
valve and this worked but it is not of marine 
quality and is corroding. I don't think a vented 
loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?


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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC


Hi Joel,

Do they require it to be registered too? 
Seriously, I got a Standard Horizon built-in with 
DSC but never got around to obtaining the number for it.


In answer to the question, go with cheap is okay 
in this case, since I'm guessing you already have an Icom for reliability.


I start to question some of these new SI 
requirements for inshore racing, with keelboats. 
Whatever happened to skipper accountability? 
Pretty soon they will start qualifying crew as well. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:22 AM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

All,

Found out that the local racing authority, 
CBYRA, will require a handheld VHF with DSC this season.


Looking at aÂ Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld 
VHF Radio with GPS from theGPSStore for $125.00


Any reason I should not buy this unit?

35/3
The Office
Annapolis
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List C&C 33 MKII


Hi Burt,

My Barients are original non-sailing. I removed 
the jam cleats years ago during a cockpit reno 
and never got around to putting them back on. I 
find after mostly trimming if I put on a couple 
extra wraps (to maybe 5) and take in a bit more 
for final trim the sheet stays put quite nicely. 
The winch is designed for the wraps to ride up and lock into the top flange.
If I'm on the tack for some time I might throw on 
a tugboat (bollard) hitch for piece o' mind.

http://www.animatedknots.com/lightermans/

Another option:
http://www.winchmate.com/

There is yet another inexpensive option that I 
cannot find. A rubber-like ring with self tailing 
locking ribs that fit over the top flange the 
winch. It was made in Sweden or UK, popular in 
the '80s... might be called grip mate or something like that.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:06 AM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

I just figured out what a self-tailing winch is! 
I always thought my jam cleats made them self-tailing.


Yeah I am that much of a novice to sailing boats 
bigger than knockabouts. It seems to me that 
they would be most useful when racing or single 
or short handing. My assumption is that they 
remove the need for someone to keep pressure on 
the sheet (or whatever you are winching) behind 
the winch thus allowing a one hand operation (or 
one person operation on larger winches). Does 
that remove the need for jam cleats behind the winches?


This is just for my knowledge. Based on the cost 
I have seen for new self-tailing winches I have 
suddenly become satisfied with my non tailing winches.for now.


My plan is to take them off the boat and bring 
them to my shop to clean and lubricate them. 
Iâm a pretty decent mechanic. May I assume 
that disassembling them is a relatively simple process?


Burt

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 10:48 AM
To: Jake Brodersen; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List C&C 33 MKII

Self tailers are king.  Racing w them is worth 
getting used to.  Our boat came w 4 self tailers 
and 2 non.  The non-self tailers are primary 
winches we use only when we have crew for 
racing.  These winches require two guys, one 
cranking and one tailing.  I added big jam 
cleats to speed up the release and trim.   If I 
replace them, they will be self tailers from 
Anderson probaby.  Otherwise, I may remove them 
completely and rely on the four self tailing winches.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Spares



Winchers
That's the creature I had in the '80s, blue ones! I find them not 
required on Barients due to a good design. They worked somewhat on 
old Barlows.


I hit send before  action on previous message. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:41 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

Mike,
did you have Winchmates or Winchers?

Harry
Sent from my iPad

On Feb 21, 2015, at 3:36 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I had those winchmate things on my Mirage, did not care for them at 
all and cut them off.

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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Spares



Well, the ad does say you can have self-tailing winches at a fraction 
of new price 1/3 is a fraction :)


At 12:54 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

$1300 USD per pair??? Did you add an extra zero?
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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC


Hi Pete,

Here's the original message:

All,
Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a 
handheld VHF with DSC this season.
Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
the GPSStore for $125.00

Any reason I should not buy this unit?
35/3

Joel


so far the HX851 @ $125 looks like a deal

Try to keep up eh. :)

Cheers, Russ

At 06:06 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_004E_01D04E11.DA72C6B0"
Content-Language: en-us

Help me understand the original requirement;  Is it to have DSC on 
the vessel and it can be either a fixed or handheld radio? Or is it 
handheld only?




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Bill Bina via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 5:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

The HX851 has GPS and it floats.



Bill Bina

On 2/21/2015 5:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Personally, I'd pop extra $$ for the new HX870.  It floats and has 
built in GPS.  If I'm in the water, I'd want the thing broadcasting 
my location.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

All,

Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a 
handheld VHF with DSC this season.


Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
theGPSStore for $125.00


Any reason I should not buy this unit?

35/3
The Office
Annapolis
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC


Hi Pete,

So sorry, can't help you there. I'm in the Great White North.

Well, sorta.
I mean, it's great and north but not so white. It's really, really 
green. As in, almost time to mow the lawn green. Don't get me wrong. 
It's not all rainbows & ponies, Sometimes it rains, just not now. Or 
last week or next week.


Anyhow, I race tomorrow and the challenge will be to not dress too warmly.

Cheers, Russ

At 09:14 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

Thanks, Russ.  I got that part.   Just trying to understand if CBYRA 
is following both US Safety Requirements 3.8.1 and 3.8.2.





From: Russ & Melody [mailto:russ...@telus.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 8:25 PM
To: Pete Shelquist; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

Hi Pete,

Here's the original message:

All,
Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a 
handheld VHF with DSC this season.
Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
the GPSStore for $125.00

Any reason I should not buy this unit?
35/3

Joel

so far the HX851 @ $125 looks like a deal

Try to keep up eh. :)

Cheers, Russ

At 06:06 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_004E_01D04E11.DA72C6B0"
Content-Language: en-us

Help me understand the original requirement;  Is it to have DSC on 
the vessel and it can be either a fixed or handheld radio? Or is it 
handheld only?




From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Bill Bina via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 5:59 PM
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

The HX851 has GPS and it floats.

<http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=85&ProdID=1558&DivisionID=3>< 
<http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=85&ProdID=1558&DivisionID=3>http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=85&ProdID=1558&DivisionID=3<http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=85&ProdID=1558&DivisionID=3>  
>


Bill Bina

On 2/21/2015 5:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Personally, I'd pop extra $$ for the new HX870.  It floats and has 
built in GPS.  If I'm in the water, I'd want the thing broadcasting 
my location.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

All,

Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a 
handheld VHF with DSC this season.


Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
theGPSStore for $125.00


Any reason I should not buy this unit?

35/3
The Office
Annapolis
Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

2015-02-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Wally,

This helpful hint from the Medical Officer, 
Amazing Grace crew in response to the forward I sent out.


We had a beautiful day on the course today. 10 
knot breeze, 12 C  (54 F) and sunny all day. I 
think this promise of global warming thing is 
working okay for the West Coasters. :)

Line honours was easy but we corrected to first by FIVE seconds! Whew.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

*
I'd say try KY Jelly as it comes in a tube instead and is water soluble.

Murray

**
On Sunday, February 22, 2015, Russ & Melody 
<<mailto:russ...@telus.net>russ...@telus.net> wrote:


Any ideas for this wayward sailor in Mexico?

Stella Blue is a C&C Landfill 38. He's been 
cruising there more than a few years now.


Cheers, Russ



From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
Reply-To: Wally Bryant , cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Okay, I've had it.Â  This is the second 
time.Â  I've noticed over the last many years 
that plastic bottles here in Mexico tend to 
bereally thin.Â  A few years ago a bottle of 
Marvel Mystery Oil exploded in my cockpit, but 
at that time it was on the sole and made a huge mess on the ocean.


Today another bottle exploded on me when I tried 
to open it.Â  It was just a result of cheap 
plastic packaging.Â  My entire cockpit, 
including myself and the swimming trunks that I 
wear, are covered in Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.


Eff this stuff.

Wal














At 05:19 PM 22/02/2015, you wrote:
Actually, to be totally honest, I wasn't wearing 
swim trunks.   Does anyone know how to safely 
remove Marvel Mystery Oil from the male 
genitalia?  I sent an email to Moyer Marine but haven't heard back.


Please don't suggest Acetone.  I tried that.  Ouch.  

Wal

I wrote:
My entire cockpit, including myself and the 
swimming trunks that I wear, are covered in 
Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.




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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

2015-02-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Wal,

Murray had a follow-up question to your situation:
Can you include a list of what he has on hand?



At 08:10 PM 22/02/2015, you wrote:

Hi Wally,

This helpful hint from the Medical Officer, 
Amazing Grace crew in response to the forward I sent out.


We had a beautiful day on the course today. 10 
knot breeze, 12 C  (54 F) and sunny all day. I 
think this promise of global warming thing is 
working okay for the West Coasters. :)

Line honours was easy but we corrected to first by FIVE seconds! Whew.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

*
I'd say try KY Jelly as it comes in a tube instead and is water soluble.

Murray

**
On Sunday, February 22, 2015, Russ & Melody 
<<mailto:russ...@telus.net>russ...@telus.net> wrote:


Any ideas for this wayward sailor in Mexico?
Stella Blue is a C&C Landfill 38. He's been 
cruising there more than a few years now.

Cheers, Russ



From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
Reply-To: Wally Bryant , cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Okay, I've had it.Â  This is the second 
time.Â  I've noticed over the last many years 
that plastic bottles here in Mexico tend to 
bereally thin.Â  A few years ago a bottle of 
Marvel Mystery Oil exploded in my cockpit, but 
at that time it was on the sole and made a huge mess on the ocean.
Today another bottle exploded on me when I 
tried to open it.Â  It was just a result of 
cheap plastic packaging.Â  My entire cockpit, 
including myself and the swimming trunks that I 
wear, are covered in Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.

Eff this stuff.
Wal














At 05:19 PM 22/02/2015, you wrote:
Actually, to be totally honest, I wasn't 
wearing swim trunks.   Does anyone know how to 
safely remove Marvel Mystery Oil from the male 
genitalia?  I sent an email to Moyer Marine but haven't heard back.


Please don't suggest Acetone.  I tried that.  Ouch.  

Wal

I wrote:
My entire cockpit, including myself and the 
swimming trunks that I wear, are covered in 
Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.




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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

2015-02-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Ron,

Are you talking about the original event or spill containment? :)

Good question really, there was only one bottle but...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet mk-1

At 01:02 PM 23/02/2015, you wrote:

Wally,
You may want to wrap them individually in plastic grocery bags and 
duct tape.  At least if they crack they'd be contained.

Like a UST, need secondary containment!
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

On Mon, 2/23/15, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil
 To: "Russ & Melody" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, February 23, 2015, 9:51 AM

 Russ wrote:
 > This helpful hint from the Medical
 Officer, Amazing Grace crew in
 >
 response to the forward I sent out. 

 Thanks Russ - Down here in
 Mexico they don't have that, but they do have
 something called Benzal that is the same
 thing.  That's good for a
 giggle.
 One must be careful, though, as there are two kinds of
 Benzal.
 One's a lubricant, the other
 is for yeast infections. If you don't know
 your Spanish, it's easy to get them mixed
 up.

 In the end it took an
 entire bottle of dish soap to emulsify the stuff.
 I feel like writing them a letter and showing
 them a picture of the
 cracked plastic
 bottle.  All I did was pick it up and the plastic
 cracked.  Grr.

 Joe - I put a capful in the gas for my
 outboard, as well as in the Honda
 2000.
 You can also put it in diesel and crankcase oil, but I
 don't.

 Wal

 --
 s/v Stella
 Blue
 www.wbryant.com

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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

2015-02-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Sorry Ron.
Somewhere along the way this got serious.

Wally says he blew a container in his cockpit and asks for help 
cleaning it up. 
We rally some help and he sorta comes  clean, "I wasn't wearing 
shorts and "oiled myself".

Yada yada.
You suggest he  "may want to wrap them individually in plastic 
grocery bags and duct tape.  At least if they crack they'd be contained."


HILARIOUS. We should have stopped there.

Then it got too deep for me.
Cheers, Russ



At 09:05 PM 23/02/2015, you wrote:
I presume Wal will continue to use it, so this would be for future 
containment.
As for cleanup, one of the citrus products for oils & greases would 
be the best way.  More expensive than dishwasher soap, but quite effective.

Have no experience using the products on more sensitive skin areas.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

--------
On Mon, 2/23/15, Russ & Melody  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil
 To: "Ronald B. Frerker" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, February 23, 2015, 8:11 PM



 Hi Ron,


 Are you talking about the original event or spill
 containment?
 :)


 Good question really, there was only one bottle but...


   Cheers,
 Russ

  Sweet
 mk-1




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Re: Stus-List Non-Slip

2015-02-26 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Damn.

The plan did seem a bit risky but I was looking 
forward to hear how it turned out.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:31 PM 26/02/2015, you wrote:

I have one word. Kiwi Grip.

OK, it's two. Sue me. Pressing a mold into 
rapidly curing gelcoat sounds like an incredibly 
painful thing to do to yourself.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 26 February 2015 at 17:48, Paul Hood via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to 
do the following project that Iâm working 
through. I bought my boat from the original 
owner 2 years ago and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip.


Â

I have removed all deck hardware with the 
exception of the toe rail, sanded down the 
existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am 
preparing to spray gelcoat over the entire 
deck.Â  Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off 
areas for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat 
followed immediately by the pressing of the 
Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip.


Â

www.gibcoflexmold.com

Â

I know this is different than the original 
roll-on finish, but I think the Gibco wears 
better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear 
skin, and looks much better to boot.Â  My hope 
is that the grip is better than rolled as it is 
more consistent throughout.Â  There are dozens 
of patterns and since Iâm not matching, Iâm 
getting the one claiming to have the best 
grip.Â  It will be definitely better than 
current as the surface is chalked throughout and 
worn in many areas.Â  In addition, there was a 
deck repair some years back and the color is 
visibly different and the surface below the 
non-slip repair is thin and almost see through.Â


Â

Iâm waiting for this months -20c temperatures 
to move out before I start heating and spraying surface.Â  Canadian winters.


Â

Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if 
so, do you have any hints.Â  Iâm sure there 
are lots of opinions here and I know Iâm about 
to open the can of worms on many levels but Iâd like to hear what you think.


Â

Thanks,

Paul Hood

1982 C&C34

Â

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Re: Stus-List Non slip, trending to gel oat

2015-02-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Barbara,

Are you racing with a crew now or did you mean to say that you have a 
few dings on your hull?  If racing, they will dislike being sprayed 
by the yard. :)


Anyhow, best to check with an insurance adjuster type dude. He will 
know the best gelcoat colour match wizard in your area to fix any 
dings. The wizard won't be the cheapest guy who can do the job.


Long story short on paint vs. gelcoat for a hull is that a modern 
poly paint is relatively economical and easy to apply with good gear 
and experience, it is durable and lasts a long time and not many 
people are good at spraying gelcoat on large surfaces to achieve 
stellar results (short working time & environmental constraints).


So, I painted my topsides to renew looks & non-skid and will continue 
polish the hull. YOM is 1972


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

BTW, this is a resend and reminder to strip sh*t off the message that 
is unnecessary, it was too large. My bad I didn't do it the first 
try. So sorry.


At 05:56 AM 27/02/2015, you wrote:
Putting kiwigrip on my deck this spring is on my list. I've read and 
heard so many good things, and the YouTube videos look like it's not 
a difficult boat job to get a really nice finish with.  Here's my question:
  My hull has never been painted, she has the original "white" 
gelcoat and it buffs up nicely and has a good shine when that 
happens.  There are a few dinks on the hull that keep her from 
looking pristine: 2 on the bow from dock landings, a couple on the 
sides when practicing backing in a current, blah blah.  I'd prefer 
to pay someone to get these places back to looking original than 
learning gelcoat repair myself and really screw it up.   Would a 
good boat yard that paints boats be able to spray gelcoat and match 
it?  I've read the matching is the hard part?   Would said yard 
have to spray the entire hull or just the few dinks?  If they have 
to spray the entire hull for it to look good, would it be better to 
just have the hull painted?  Why do boats get painted rather than 
leave them original gelcoat since gelcoat can be colored when the 
boat is manufactured?

Thanks for your input.

Barbara H. Fellers
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

2015-03-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Bradley,

Wouldn't you know it, I have one of those at my boat. Pre-Raytheon 
days. I'm not sure mine even works anymore.


I say "at my boat" because I took it off during a boat work period 
some time ago and never got around to reinstalling. So I believe 
you're on the right path to use the boat for a couple of season 
before committing to an autopilot upgrade.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:15 PM 02/03/2015, you wrote:
Well I was over to see the boat today, brought the Autohelm 4000 
control box home with me. Appears like its an original so there will 
be no chance of communication going on between it and the new stuff. 
:(( no trace of anything other than "Autohelm4000" and made in 
England so it's got to be as old as dirt!


Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

2015-03-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



To let the water out? :)

At 10:01 AM 03/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_BY1PR0801MB0869755F7A71CD883C86CF34D1110BY1PR0801MB0869_"

I own a 1972 c&c 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as to why
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Re: Stus-List Registration in Canada

2015-03-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Brad
The builder's certificate can be found here as a PDF:
http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Corp-Serv-Gen/5/Forms-Formulaires/searchrs.aspx?formnumber=84-0040

This is the info site for registering:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/oep-vesselreg-registration-menu-2311.htm#firsttime

This is the home site:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/oep-vesselreg-registration-menu-2311.htm#registering

Good luck. It's been so long since I've gone through the builder's
path of registry that my knowledge is out of date.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:30 PM 05/03/2015, you wrote:
I'm sure that some of my fellow Canadians have actually registered
(not licensed) their boats with the Feds. I'd appreciate some more
of your generous help. What exactly are they looking for when they
ask for the builders certificate? I don't see anything like that in
the documentation I have. Background, 1985 C&C 33 purchased in USA
this winter. To the best of my knowledge it was sold new in the US.
I bought from who is likely the second owner, so it is a new registration.
The other question I have is concerning the tonnage, is the
simplified tonnage method acceptable? Should my boat be 6.85 tons?

Thank you
Brad

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Re: Stus-List registration in Canada

2015-03-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brad,

Do you have a Ship's Registrar nearby? We are a Port of Registry and 
in the old days (when I did these) each POR had a Ship's Registrar. 
Ours was very helpful, I still remember her name, Barb. I probably 
have done five boats with her before she retired.


I can imagine with the centralization that service has gone way downhill.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1 (licensed only)

At 07:47 PM 06/03/2015, you wrote:
Now we're getting to the root of the problem, I don't have any info 
from the original purchaser, and the builder has gone bankrupt, what 
do I present to the govt. to prove whatever it is they are looking 
for? And what do these poor folks do in Florida when they land in a 
licensed boat (not registered) and don't have the paperwork to 
provide to register the boat in their home port in Canada? Thus far 
I haven't got the answer I need from transport Canada either, will 
be in contact again Monday



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from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List registration in Canada

2015-03-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Oh yeah. One more thing.
I suggest you check around with a couple of boat brokers. Some of 
these guys must know someone who knows their way around this landscape.


Cheers, Russ


At 07:47 PM 06/03/2015, you wrote:
Now we're getting to the root of the problem, I don't have any info 
from the original purchaser, and the builder has gone bankrupt, what 
do I present to the govt. to prove whatever it is they are looking 
for? And what do these poor folks do in Florida when they land in a 
licensed boat (not registered) and don't have the paperwork to 
provide to register the boat in their home port in Canada? Thus far 
I haven't got the answer I need from transport Canada either, will 
be in contact again Monday



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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

2015-03-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Oh! That makes sense.

My brain read Aires comment as "generic engineering"...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:45 PM 11/03/2015, you wrote:

h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



--
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this 
list.  This group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, 
not just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what 
gets this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well 
each works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting 
wrenches dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the 
bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave



Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[]

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

2015-03-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Was it just last year a bunch of guys back east were complaining 
about having not enough water? :)


Nice day here for a ride on the motorcycle, then go sailing perhaps. 
No racing though, that is every other weekend.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk1
East side o' Vancouver Island



At 04:55 AM 13/03/2015, you wrote:
You're not alone... the Ohio River is above flood stage from Ohio 
through Illinois; we are currently at 26 ft. and predicted to go 
another1-2 feet by Monday, (flood stage is 23 ft; "normal" pool 
stage is 12 ft.)


Richard
1985 C&c 37; Ohio River, mile 596; (happily on a floating dock)
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255




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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

2015-03-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


HI Stu,

List please.

This list feels more like family than any forum I 
used to visit. I say, "...used to visit." 'cause 
somehow I just drift away from them eventually.
It's so much nicer when the messages come to me. 
(Even the hundred or more after a vacation :)


Cheers, Russ


At 02:32 PM 13/03/2015, you wrote:
Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated 
that they would like to have a âForumâ 
similar to âcruisersforumâ or âsailnetâ 
instead of an email list (like this one).


PROS:
1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list
2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.
3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.
4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.
5. Easily moderated by more than one 
person.  Threads can be deleted and undesirable subscribers blocked.
6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site 
at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit.


CONS:
1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 
depending on additional enhancements.
2. Might (???) require additional disk space and 
bandwidth on hosting site. ()
3. Installation  Iâve done it before and it 
does takee some time.  And a bit more time 
involved to get it tweeked to perfection.


Bottom line  would you rather have a FORUM or 
continue using this list?  It does not matter to me.


Stu

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Re: Stus-List Email client details

2015-03-15 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Fred,

I have my email client as POP and there is a 
setting to leave messages the on server x number 
of days. I have it set to 15 days, after which 
Eudora will delete the expired messages. I guess 
that's why I still use Eudora, a good old girl 
and less virus risk than iStuff or Mac and WAY 
less risk than Outlook. No one writes code for Eudora anymore. :)


Cheers, Russ
HP Pavillion, XP sp3 (in lieu of boat reference)


At 07:29 AM 15/03/2015, you wrote:
Jonathan  youre right.  Setting your mail 
client up as IMAP rather than as a POP client 
means that all messages will stay on the email 
server, and then be copied to all IMAP clients 
of that account when they connect.  Ive got my 
Gmail account set up that way on my MacBook Pro, 
iPhone and iPad, and everything stays 
synchronized; so it appears to work for Google 
Mail.  Ive also got several personal and work email accounts set up that way.


With POP, as soon as a client connects, the 
message is downloaded from the server to that 
client only; theres no good way to keep things synchronized.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 14, 2015, at 11:09 PM, Indigo via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I am no expert - but believe you have to set up 
your email account as an IMAP account rather 
than POP3. With IMAP, the various mail clients 
are synchronized so that if you delete an email 
on one device, it is deleted from all. (I have 
4 devices from which I can read / send emails - 
so it was critical for me to have this 
feature). I don't use gmail - I have my own 
domain with godaddy and it was not difficult to 
set the account as IMAP - not sure if gmail can be so easily configured


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

2015-03-15 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Sam,

If your cockpit sole is at an elevation where the leeward drain is 
below the waterline when heeled then crossed drain hoses prevent 
water coming into the low corner and getting the binoculars and empty 
beer cans wet.


I have vertical drain hoses and no problems.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:01 AM 15/03/2015, you wrote:
Changing the subject slightly, my cockpit drains are not crossed, 
they go straight down, and work fine.
I don't get the theory of crossing drains. Seems to me that a 
crossed drain will start to approach horizontal as the boat heels 
and work less well.


So what's the logic behind crossed cockpit drains?

sam :-)
C&C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta

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Re: Stus-List New LF38 owner and blog

2015-03-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Patrick
And welcome to the list.
You caught us at a busy time as we were deciding 
whether to renovate. It turns out that we're just 
gonna leave things as it is and maybe go sailing.


It's been warm eh.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side Vancouver Island

At 08:51 PM 15/03/2015, you wrote:

Hi,Â

I just wanted to introduce myself to the group 
since I'll probably be posting a few questions 
here soon - this group is super helpful!Â


My fiancee and I are new LF38 owners in Seattle, 
and are keeping a blog here:Â


www.svviolethour.com

Feel free to subscribe and follow along!

-Patrick
C&C 38 Landfall
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines on an LF 38

2015-03-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Jonathan,

My preference is outside the shrouds and use the "high" side for 
transit. I feel there is no clear consensus amongst skippers, seems 
pretty close to 50 - 50 which way to go with the jacklines.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:25 PM 16/03/2015, you wrote:
I know the logic behind leading the jack lines inside the shrouds, 
(close to the centerline etc), but on the 35-5 I find the easiest 
way forward is to go outside the shrouds on the windward side. Most 
of my tethers are single point attachment, so I don't want crew 
using them to unclip at any time once out of the cockpit. Short of 
buying new tethers, should I be doing something different

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Mar 16, 2015, at 15:01, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
 wrote:

>
> inside the shrouds

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Re: Stus-List Awl grip deck and re-bed toe rail of 35MkI

2015-03-17 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Glen,

I thought this subject was familiar and dug up an old message I sent 
out last year, as below. It was two years ago that we completed the 
deck repaint using two pot polyurethane.


Rest assured, the toe rails do not spring back to straight and 
require very little flexing to line up the holes again on install. In 
regards to boat projects it's not nearly as big as an engine swap. 
Tedious, yes. Difficult, no. If my starboard rail starts leaking it 
will be off in short order and redone.


Each year I think that the port side needs to be taken up a bit, 
since a wee gap is showing between inboard edge and deck, but no leaks.


Now, let's start a new thread on replacing that Atomic 4 with a nice 
diesel because they're so much better. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




I've done the port side toe-rail. Starboard not leaking yet :)

No big deal except a few nuts are difficult to get at.
- remove toe rail, two parts
- clean up corrosion and repair with Devcon or other epoxy/metal 
repair compound

- sand repair areas and paint (I used flat black spray paint)
- apply butyl tape & reinstall (do not tighten hard, just a wee bit 
o' squeeze on butyl)

- rinse & go for a sail

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1







At 01:41 PM 17/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_ADEC5B81F0194F47A7D84C7163DB74C5017A1B23DBms1tmcalocal_"

Hello everyone,

I am planning to keep Freya IV out of the water this summer to redo 
the toe rail and get rid of the wet core on the deck.   I understand 
this is a big project and I have professional help on core repair 
and the awl grip job to get it done.  That said, I would greatly 
appreciate assistance on re-bedding the toe rail and any issues that 
anyone has come across in prepping the deck for priming/painting.  I 
have given myself until next May to get everything done, although I 
want the toe rail re-bedded and the deck painted by this fall at the 
latest.  I have other projects to complete over the winter-and 
no I will not be replacing the Atomic 4.


I love my 35 mk I. Hopefully this will bring her to showroom 
condition.   Thanks in advance.


Glen Eddie
Tel:  416-777-5357
Fax:  1-888-812-2557
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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

2015-03-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



You're too late Patrick.

We decided to stay with the list. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:20 PM 18/03/2015, you wrote:

List is fine by me.


Patrick Wesley

S/V The Boat C& C 24 MK II

Sidney BC Canada

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Re: Stus-List Sailing Sunday in Vancouver?

2015-03-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



What rain? It's just a little damp.

I miss my Sunday Race Day this weekend with the Schooner Cover gang. :(

Work. And you know what the gentry say, "Work is 
the curse of the drinking class."


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:06 PM 20/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-GB
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_201503210406116291540868894885Purolatorcom_"

âI'm in Vancouver this weekend for work Saturday and Monday.
Is anyone racing out of Vancouver on Sunday 
looking for crew, or just want to get out for a sail if this rain ever stops?

Contact me off list, Thanks.

Jay
C&C30 visiting from frozen Ontario...

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Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

2015-04-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Peter,

You nailed it pretty well. You are expected to 
maintain to standard of when it was built. Thus, 
if you add a modern convenience it should be to 
the standard at that time, and maintained accordingly.


In the pressure vessel world costly repair 
decisions often comes down to "code of 
construction" conversations. But just try finding 
the code of something built 50 years ago (before the Internet :). Yikes!


It is sometimes difficult to keep a surveyor from 
making inappropriate comments. Especially if 
he/she has been on a recent course.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side o' Vancouver Island

At 01:13 PM 02/04/2015, you wrote:

It is a bit of a âgrey areaâ though, isnât it?

Typically an insurer will look at a surveyorâs 
report and make the surveyorâs recommendations 
a requirement of the insurance, with a timeline to complete the required work.


Iâm not sure what US Coast Guard regs say, but 
Transport Canada says that a pleasure craft, 
built to a previous standard, doesnât have to 
comply with the Transport Canada current 
standard (but is encouraged to do so, as far as practical).


But then there are clauses that state you must 
meet the standard when a vessel is ârebuiltâ 
or âimportedâ or undergoes a âmajor 
modificationâ, which is defined as:


âmajor modificationâ means a modification or 
repair or a series of modifications or repairs 
that substantially changes the capacity or size 
of a vessel or the nature of a system on board a 
vessel, that affects its watertight integrity or 
its stability, or, except in the case of the 
restoration of an antique wooden pleasure craft, 
that substantially increases its service lifeâ


So I expect if, for example, you were adding in 
a shorepower system where one never existed 
before? Or perhaps you are adding a 
propane-based stove/oven, BBQ, and cabin heater 
with propane tanks and a propane locker? 
Refrigeration system? Hot water system? Genset? A complete AC/DC re-wire?


Same as, when do you need a building / 
electrical / plumbing permits for your home?


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII



From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 10:53 AM
To: ed 
vanderkruk ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

I believe that ABYC only governs the practice of 
boat builders and boat repair contractors.  I 
don't believe there is any requirement that our 
old boats have to be brought up to the current 
ABYC standards (which are always being 
improved).  A survey done on your boat may 
recommend that something be changed to adhere to 
the current ABYC standards but that is the judgement of the marine surveyor.


So, I think we need to think of ABYC standards 
with respect to our DIY projects as "recommended 
guidelines" when we are making changes--not as an absolute requirement.


For example, ABYC recommends the use of tinned 
wire throughout a boat.  Our old boats have 
mostly un-tinned wire throughout.  Even though 
it's a good idea to replace the old un-tinned 
wire it is not a requirement for insurance purposes or safety purposes.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so 
much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Apr 2, 2015, at 1:28 PM, ed vanderkruk via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


For ABYC compliance it must be failsafe or with 
integral / external status monitoring for a failure.


All DIY solutions would also not comply to the 
'general requirements' of the GI ABYC section.


Now whether this is highlighted during survey 
and any liabilities but noncompliance ... I leave to others.


Ed

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Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

2015-04-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



It's okay Josh.

Wally is a geek, he knows. I think he was just entertaining himself. 
Maybe it gets lonely sometimes in Mexico after the sun goes down. :)


Cheers, Russ
east side, Vancouver Island

At 06:13 PM 04/04/2015, you wrote:

All analog meters are just measuring the "voltage drop" across a 
resistance.  The key is to have the appropriate voltage input 
+12v.  If the +12v and the sensing line were reversed then the 
"voltage drop" would be "negative" driving the needle to the empty peg.


Josh
On Apr 4, 2015 7:08 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I thought they were Ohm meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to make 
sure, and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel sender resistance.


Wal

you wrote:
I agree with your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed polarity...of the
sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the fuel gages are just voltage meters.  They
respond proportionally to the voltage drop across the variable resistance
in the sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm meter to
measure and validate the resistance of the senders.  Switching the polarity
of the sense and gnd monetarily probably won't break anything.  Before
doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached picture.
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Re: Stus-List sailing books - now grounded from sailing

2015-04-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Thanks for the heads up Dennis. No way I'm going 
in to see a Doctor now, after hearing a story like that. Hoo boy! :)


Oh, and get well soon my boy. We don't need another 35 mk-1 on the market...

I can't really help you out with sailing book 
recommendations. The last book I read was, 
WICKED. The Life & Times of the Wicked Witch of the West.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 01:20 PM 05/04/2015, you wrote:

Chuck,

Your "grounding" could be worse.

Couple weeks ago I went in for a heart stress 
test after feeling a "twinge" underÂ  my left 
armpit.Â  Stress test turned into a trip to the 
catheterization lab followed by a double bypass 
later that night.Â  I'm a bonafide member of the "zipper" club now.


Complete surprise.Â  No other blockages anywhere.Â  Very strange.

Recovering quickly.Â  Walking several miles a 
day but sailing is off the schedule for a 
while.Â  Can't grind a winch with a split open sternum.Â


Guess I'll make a trip to the library.Â  Oh, 
wait.Â  I can't drive for two more weeks.Â  :(Â  Sucks.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Apr 5, 2015 at 1:21 PM, Chuck S via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I've been binge reading John Kretschmer's books, 
because the flu has me grounded.




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Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme

2015-04-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Leslie,

Why would you max size a wire spec?

I can't think of any practical situation where a little too big is 
not good and the shorter runs are better too.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:33 PM 06/04/2015, you wrote:
minor addition, the charge current is limited by the recommended 
wiring between the banks.  From memory, a minimum length of 6 feet 
and maximum size of 6 SWG.  (please check before using this info.) 
Leslie Phoenix C&C32 1983
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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

2015-04-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Alex,

That sounds like a good plan. I will suggest that you light a small 
indicator lamp on the interior panel connected to the "on" switch of 
each exterior panel switch (exterior, instrument & navigation) so 
when you snuggle down in an anchorage you can see if you 
unintentionally left an exterior light burning.


Where is the anchor light, deck light and a red cabin light switches 
going to be? Unconventional, but there is an argument to have them 
all outside too.


Dammit, precious little starts to get complicated :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:39 PM 08/04/2015, you wrote:

So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel 
with 15 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 
1-2-all-off switch.


The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been 
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new 
electric motor charger and the second one going to the new smart 
charger for the house bank. On the starboard side of the 
companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have been 
converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF 
radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition 
WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.


The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel 
to the locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to 
have a sub panel (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine 
instruments were.


So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would 
be switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The 
engine installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I 
can use for whatever.


Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched 
from the cabin panel.


Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire 
to the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.


Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

a...@airsensing.com


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Re: Stus-List C&C in Sail Magazine

2015-04-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That is a fine looking anchorin' arrangement. It 
looks like a well developed unit similar to one 
that is on an early Hinterholler's yacht at my 
club. (Similar size to a 35 mk-1.) I really like 
the details to stow & pin the anchor shank on the upper support, brilliant.


I think the best guess that the sprit thingy is 
for a assy is correct. Check out the blue braid , 
with white tracer. It leads into the centre of 
the sprit thingy, by the look of it. I agree it 
does not appear well supported, not much of a 
socket and 4 little rivets?? I can't see an 
attachment for any kind of lower stay for the thing.


The boat licence number is indicative of being 
Canadian, 50L  or 60L . A number & letter 
followed by a serial number is an old system. I 
couldn't find any area listings on the Transport 
Canada site to get an idea of where she might be. 
(Example: an old Nanaimo number was 13K 1354, my runabout, circa late 70s.)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:45 PM 08/04/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_00AE_01D0723C.FBF9CA00"
Content-Language: en-us

Donât recognize the boat, but do recognize the 
anchor arrangement. It is called an âanchor 
carrierâ and is made by a company in the 
Toronto area. I first saw it in a string about 
anchor rollers for our old boats Â on this list 
several years ago, and was going to get one made 
for my 38. IIRC, the owner of one of the 
Canadian boats  Tangerine?  was the source for 
the he supplier. The supplier could never get 
the proper dimensions to have an anchor carrier 
constructed for the 38. They were looking for a 
boat in that area from which they could get 
measurements and just never gave me a shipping 
date, so I ended up having a local fabricator 
make a bow pulpit for me. I think the anchor 
guides pointed out in the photo are an option for the anchor carrier.


The pole looks like a fold down sprit for an 
a-sail. An extended mount for the block to carry 
an a-sail was to be part of my anchor carrier, 
along with a stainless rod and bracket that 
would act like a bobstay to carry the loads from 
the spinnaker. If this is a fold up sprit, it 
doesnât look particularly robust. But then we 
arenât seeing the entire arrangement and maybe 
there are provisions for mounting it that we canât see.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C in Sail Magazine

http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/things-work-chain-guide/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter

Anyone we know?  What is that pole on the port side?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

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Re: Stus-List Tiller on C&C 35 Mkiii?

2015-04-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Dave,

You might want to hunt down Alan in Portland. 
He's had Thirsty for a long time.
With any luck he will even answer your original 
question about a tiller equipped 35 mk-3.


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
west coast, Canada

At 03:02 PM 16/04/2015, you wrote:

Rob,

Thanks for that link - I'll definitely take a 
look.Â  We own a little trailer sailor at 
present (Potter 19), so this will be the first 
keelboat purchase for me.Â  I've done a fair 
amount of sailing (passages from Portland to the 
San Juans) with friends on their boats, some 
sailing classes and a couple of cruises in the San Juans/Gulf Islands. Â Â


We currently live in Oregon, but I'm in the 
process of retiring and we've purchased a house 
in Port Angeles, so if I do buy a boat, it will 
be based out of Port Angeles. Â  Â I've been 
looking for something from 30' to 35' feet, so 
this is at the long end.Â  I originally had been 
reluctant to consider these C&C boats because of 
the cored hulls, but I guess I'm somewhat 
getting over that phobia, although I'll definitely be getting it surveyed. Â


Cheers,

Dave

On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 1:28 PM, robert 
<robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
Dave, welcome to the C&C list.Â  You didn't say 
if this was your first boat (I am betting it is 
not)..if you are, then the attached article 
and especially the part where it says to become 
a boat detective could be useful buying any boat.

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/buying.htm

However, if you are only looking for specifics 
on C&C 35MKIII's, there are several owners on 
this list with considerable experience with the 35 MKIII.


Keep the list informed on how you far out.Â  And where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2015-04-16 4:28 PM, David Castor via CnC-List wrote:
Hello - first post here.Â  I'm in the market 
for a boat and will be looking at two different 
35 Mkiii tomorrow.Â  One apparently has a 
tiller instead of a wheel.Â  Does anyone know 
if this was an option on a new boat?Â  I'm 
assuming it was probably a later conversion.Â


I've already been advised on checking for leaks 
at hull/deck joint and portlights, as well as 
mast step area and deck delamination/core rot.Â


If there are any other things to be looking for 
let me know.Â  I'll definitely be getting a 
survey if it gets that far, but trying to screen out any major issues.Â


Thanks,

Dave Castor



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Re: Stus-List Why does my furler get "hung up"?

2015-04-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Robert,

The common causes of furler madness is halyard too tight, halyard too 
loose or halyard lead too shallow.
A poor halyard lead is the most cause of furler nonperformance. The 
most common solution is to install a fairlead as the halyard comes 
out of the box at the masthead.


I had a similar problem to yours and everything went fine since I 
added a shackle to the jib tack, which allows the swivel to go a bit 
higher and steepen the halyard lead.


You must do something as that is a very bad situation to sail with. 
Search out "halyard wrap and other furler horror stories". It simply 
will not work as is and you could break it in a blow by forcing things to furl.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island

At 10:08 PM 16/04/2015, you wrote:
I just bent on my main and jib this evening. While furling my jib, 
the furler (Harken) seemed to get caught up somehow. It was as if 
the furler wanted to unwind a little, if that makes sense.


I know that my jib sheets were not fouled. It felt as if I was 
twisting the foil or the forestay.


I managed to furl by repeatedly backing off and gingerly furling again.

Anyway, I'm asking because this happened to me last summer under 
sail while I was trying to reef. The situation was as above, but 
with the added drama of a wildly flapping jib.


Is there an obvious reason for this?

Robert H.
1989 C&C 30 MKII
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Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race

2015-04-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Perhaps the cat was not trying to tie you up 
securely. She might have been just playing with you. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:14 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:

Cats also tie terrible knots. Never trust a cat to tie you up securely.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 April 2015 at 19:10, 
svpegasu...@gmail.com 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Being a live aboard, my crew (aka cat Dinghy) 
gets locked in the brig (v-berth), he can tell 
when I am thinking of leaving the dock. It's 
terrible being out smarted by a cat.Â  Once 
under way, he likes to sit on cushion layed over 
clutches, makes it tough to adjust the main, all 
the while giving me the finger, (mentally), for 
making him go sailing. When arriving back at 
slip first one off is supposed to take a line. 
Yeah he doesn't do that either.Â



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List

Date: Wed, Apr 22, 2015 17:57

To: Martin DeYoung;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
Before the Great Refit, often when my wife and I 
went out for an afternoon sail it went like this:


Me: âHoney, could you just take in on the mainsheet a bit?â

Wife, putting down her knitting and cranking: âIs that enough?â

âYes. Thanksâ

Wife goes back to knitting.

âHoney, could ease the traveler down a bit?â

Wife: âOkay Is that enough?â

>
Me: âYes. Thanks.â

Me in a few seconds: âCould you bring the 
traveler up a bit?â (after cranking in on the jibâ


Wife: âYour racing again, arenât you?â

Me: âWell, thereâs a boat on the horizon and 
I think heâs pointing higher than us.â


Wife: âReally?â

Me: âJust pull it up a little bit, okay?â

Wife goes back to knitting

AKA: Competition Cruisinng.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Roninâs Overdue Refit

On Apr 22, 2015, at 8:28 PM, Martin DeYoung via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Me: Having too much fun to really quite grasp that no one else is.


This is why I often sail singlehanded.Â  Wife, 
son, and dog got tired of my general yahoo 
approach to sailing even on a cruise.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Andrew Frame via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 4:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race


My crew:

Spouse: Hanging on tightly convinced we're going to capsize when we heel.

Daughter: Total lack of situational awareness, 
particularly noticeable when on the foredeck, 
we're coming about and the jib and lines proceed to mummify her.


Son: Panic-frozen in place, terrified of the 
body-hugging apparatus called a PFD.


Me: Having too much fun to really quite grasp that no one else is.


Andrew
C&C 24

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Re: Stus-List Cat crew duties during a race

2015-04-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Watch out if he starts mixing drinks for you.

http://www.greaterfool.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/TRUST-modified.jpg?8f4c78


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 10:08 PM 22/04/2015, svpegasu...@gmail.com wrote:

Yeah he is pretty worthless. But the girls love 
him. And he doesn't drink my post sailing cocktails.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List

Date: Wed, Apr 22, 2015 21:52

To: Russ & Melody<mailto:;cnc-list@cnc-list.com>;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
Cat has trouble opening the bottle for post race dark and stormys

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 22, 2015, at 11:33 PM, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:




Perhaps the cat was not trying to tie you up 
securely. She might havebeen just playing with you. :)


Cheers,Russ
Sweet35 mk-1

At 09:14 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:
Cats also tie terrible 
<http://knots.Ne>knots.Never trust a cat to tie you up securely.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 April 2015 at 
19:10,<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>svpegasu...@gmail.com<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>wrote: 

Being a live aboard, my crew (aka cat Dinghy) 
gets locked in the brig(v-berth), he can tell 
when I am thinking of leaving the dock. 
It'sterrible being out smarted by a 
cat.Ã  Once under way, he likes tosit on 
cushion layed over clutches, makes it tough to 
adjust the main,all the while giving me the 
finger, (mentally), for making him gosailing. 
When arriving back at slip first one off is 
supposed to take aline. Yeah he doesn't do that either.Ã


Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA.
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Re: Stus-List Cat crew duties during a race

2015-04-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



And there's more:
http://www.greaterfool.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/ASSHOLE-modified.jpg?8f4c78

Hi Doug,

Thanks for the topic, this is cat hartic for me.  I miss ol' Alphonzo 
Purr, deceased November 2014.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver island

At 10:08 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:

Yeah he is pretty worthless. But the girls love him. And he doesn't 
drink my post sailing cocktails.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List

Date: Wed, Apr 22, 2015 21:52

To: Russ & Melody<mailto:;cnc-list@cnc-list.com>;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
Cat has trouble opening the bottle for post race dark and stormys

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 22, 2015, at 11:33 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:




Perhaps the cat was not trying to tie you up securely. She might 
have been just playing with you. :)


Cheers,Russ
Sweet35 mk-1

At 09:14 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:
Cats also tie terrible <http://knots.Ne>knots.Never trust a cat to 
tie you up securely.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Interesting 35-1 interior reconfiguration

2015-04-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



You got that right Joe.

Hatches & head skylight are good clues. It's also not a Redwing, 
being a whole year newer than my boat... which is a few years younger 
than a Redwing.


I like your comment about losing the best sea berth. This yacht is 
okay for a single-handed laker or coastal crustier. (I meant cruiser 
but auto correct said crustier and I like that better.)


I say good for single hand because the "pullman style" galley is a 
pain in the arse if there are more than two people aboard. Either the 
cook is annoyed that someone is travelling through the work area or 
the skipper is annoyed that a cook is always in the way. If the cook 
& skipper is the same, no problem.


Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1 1972



At 06:50 PM 24/04/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_00ED_01D07ED8.A33F1340"
Content-Language: en-us

That is a 35.



Joe Della Barba
Coquina
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Rick Brass via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interesting 35-1 interior reconfiguration

I think this is a 30, not a 35.

Dennis, you have too much time on your hands if you are boat 
shopping in Canada. You need to get healthy soon!


Rick Brass
Washington, NC




From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 3:04 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Interesting 35-1 interior reconfiguration

The interior of this 35-1 has been significantly reconfigured.  I 
don't think this was an option.  The galley has been extended into 
the starboard side settee.  Some of the pictures are upside down but 
just shows what you can do.


<http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-toronto/c-c-35-redwing-mk-1/1025857419>
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

2015-04-25 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Bill,

How is the pole UV protected... painted? And have you noticed any 
effect on the flow across the lower part of the mains'l?


Most of the carbon poles around here are deck stow and have a cloth 
covering when not in use.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:48 AM 25/04/2015, you wrote:
I have a carbon pole on the mast, & I wouldn't do it any other way. 
It is so slick to deploy, and completely out of the way.




Bill Coleman
C&C 39
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

2015-04-25 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Is that right?

A CF spar that weighs twice an aluminum... what is special, other than price?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:43 PM 25/04/2015, you wrote:

I have a Forespar carbon fiber extendable spinnaker/whisker pole on Honey
It weighs twice what the aluminum pole weighs and when said and done 
with end fittings etc it cost me right at USD4,000 through Port Supply

Jack Fitzgerald
Honey
C&C 39TM
Savannah GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 25, 2015, at 10:48, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I have a carbon pole on the mast, & I wouldn't do it any other way. 
It is so slick to deploy, and completely out of the way.




Bill Coleman
C&C 39


 Original message 
From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 04/24/2015 5:03 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

Pegasus had the pole deck stowed. I moved it to the rail, aft chock 
is inside of stantion, fwd chock os on outside of aft bow pulpit 
stantion. So far I have not had an issue wit lines getting tangled.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Date: Fri, Apr 24, 2015 12:35

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Subject:Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage
My seldom used spin pole is in deck chocks along the starboard 
rail.  Just something else to trip over.


Has anyone used the rail-mounted chocks?  Any other solution (other 
than the mast)?


Joel

The Office
Annapolis
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Re: Stus-List rig tuning

2015-04-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi David,

If I may try to clarify things a bit here... 
substitute "forestay length" for "forestay tension" in Dwight's message below.


As others have pointed out (Dennis' message is a 
good guide)  forestay tension is more or less 
adjusted for sailing (or APPARENT wind) conditions.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

Today's activity is a pre-cruise boat scrub and 
make sure the refrig still works. Although the 
bilge is still a nice temperature to cool pale ale, so no distress there.

'Round Thetis Island race next weekend.

At 05:15 AM 29/04/2015, you wrote:

David


Initial set on the forestay tension should give 
some aft rake on the mast.Â  In calm waters and 
after you have the mast plumb, hang a weight 
(say 5-10 lbs) on the main halyard just above 
the boom...that weight should hang out anywhere 
from 6 inches to a foot aft of the mast...adjust 
forestay tension so you get something like that 
before applying additional back stay tension. 
then you can apply back stay tension to induce 
more aft rake and if you have a gage on your 
backstay adjuster you can use that to see how 
rake varies with tension or you can do as Dennis 
described for what he does on Touche with a 
calibrated batten...If your boat has a strong 
weather helm you may have too much aft 
rake...you can achieve a lighter weather helm by 
relaxing the forestay tension a bit


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Apr 28, 2015 at 11:20 PM, David Knecht 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi Dennis- I realize that you would generally 
tighten the forestay with the backstay as the 
wind increases.Â  However, that assumes some 
starting point of how much sag there is with no 
backstay tension and it is that starting point 
that I am unsure how to set. I am presuming that 
there can be such a thing as too much sag 
because the forestay turnbuckle is set too loose. Â  Dave


On Apr 28, 2015, at 10:10 PM, Dennis C. 
<capt...@gmail.com> wrote:



Simple question.Â  Complex answer.

Look at the shape of the headsail.Â  Notably, 
the amount of sag in the luff.Â


Forestay tension is primarily regulated by 
backstay tension.Â  There is no good guide for 
pounds of force.Â  Your headsail design and 
age, choice of sail (#1, #2, #3), rig tune, 
wind strength and sea state will influence forestay tension.


Forestay sag affects the depth of the 
headsail.Â  (Halyard or luff tension affects 
the position of maximum draft.)Â  Forestay sag 
also affects the angle of entry of the 
headsail.Â  In light air or leftover seas, 
increase sag (i.e. less tension.).Â  In flatter 
water and more breeze, decrease sag (more tension).Â


On Touche' we don't look at the gauge on the 
hydraulic backstay adjuster.Â  We have a dinghy 
batten taped to the adjuster.Â  The batten is 
marked with different color tapes.Â  We use it 
as a general guide to reproduce tension based 
on our experience with the boat and our 
observation of the forestay and headsail shape.Â  Our general guidelines are:


Green - light air or waves
Yellow - moderate breeze, some waves
Red - heavy breeze or flatter waters
Black - death, Holy Crap!Â  Beam us up, Scotty!Â  We're going to die!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 28, 2015 at 7:33 PM, David Knecht 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Speaking of forestay, what is the proper way to 
determine the correct forestay tension? Â  Â Dave


On Apr 28, 2015, at 7:14 PM, Tim Goodyear via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Robert,

I think the only things missing from your 
setup numbers are rake and pre-bend.Â  Our 
forestay length is also very easy to adjust (not that I do often).


Thanks,

Tim


On Apr 28, 2015, at 4:01 PM, robert via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


What Dwight is referencing is a race we did 
with a Kirby 25 and were embarrassed on the 
race course.Â  And we were especially bad on 
starboard tackwe kept wondering all day 
what was wrongalmost blaming one another 
for our poor performance, e.g. you can't be 
pointing high enough, you can't have my sails 
trimmed.Â Â Â  After the race, first we 
discovered the shroud turnbuckles were not 
pinned.I thought they were because I 
thought I pinned them after I tensioned rig 
tension.Â  Dwight discovered by applying 
Pythagorean's theorem that the top of the 
mast was out of column by 18" to port.Â  Any 
wonder why the boat was not performing the way it/we previously did.


That never happened a second time!

The 32's rig is set at cap shrouds 1,300 
lbs.,Â  lowers 1,200,Â  intermediates 500 
lbs.,Â  backstay at rest 1,000 
lbs.,Â  babystay 600 lbs..haven't 
measured the headstay tension but it is about 
4" to 6"Â  bowed with a 135% under power. Â 
Â  And since

Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

2015-05-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Josh,

This reply is really for Mr. Noragon.

You and everybody else agree on the concept that 
Sail CE vs. Yacht CLR is going to influence 
weather helm. Any objection to moving the 
discussion on ways to arrive and influence that 
relationship to a new thread? (it might become huge :)


In the interest of stepping a mast on a Landfill 
38* I recommend the following simple steps: mast 
placement, shroud static tune, shroud dynamic tune.


Mast placement:
Since we don't have history, I would start with 
the mast centred in step and adjust forestay 
length* to arrive at desired rake. If you come 
against the aft partners (deck elevation) then 
bang the mast base forward (similar if aft adjustment is necessary).


Static Shroud Tune:*
Centre mast athwartship using this technique, 
second paragraph At The 
Dock  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm
Next, I tighten the lower shrouds alternately and 
bang on 'em occasionally until the low "thud" 
becomes a low "bing". I keep the tighten sequence 
until they all have the same nice "bing". (low G 
for my wire, if I remember correctly)

Similiar for the upper shrouds. (but a higher note when finished)

Block the mast at the partners and have a beer. 
You have just tuned a rig, by ear.


Dynamic Shroud Tune.
The sailing adjustments finish rig tuning and are 
as important as above. I usually do a couple of 
dynamic tunes simply because of weather 
opportunities aren't always there the first sail 
out. For this I do a small leeward adjustment, 
tack, adjust leeward, tack, etc. instead of 
luffing as recommended by the above link.


* - if you are racing and need repeatable 
pre-race rig settings then a Loos gauge is a handy kit for Static Shroud Tune.

  - not once was forestay tension mentioned :)
  - the other thing I couldn't resist was the 
landfill comment. this is an unkind and 
unwarranted remark oft made in the racing 
community, jealous, I think, they don't appreciate comfort.

I would love to upgrade to a Landfall 38 and cruise the Caribbean for bit.

Oops, gotta go. Looks like a call from Rich, 
inviting me over for a beer (in case the sale falls through). Hah ha.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Nanaimo

At 05:59 PM 03/05/2015, you wrote:

Right, we have all agreed (conceeded in my case) 
that more rake usually equals more weather 
helm.  However, while discussing rake we are 
only taking into consideration the movement of 
the mast head.  The act of moving the head back 
actually does two things.  One, it tilts or 
rotates the sail on approximately on it's 
tack.  Two, it pulls the entire sail aft since the mast is moving aft.


Which action is changing the weather helm or are they both responsible?

The original question by Mr. Frank Noragon was, 
"What would happen if he moved the blocks at the 
mast step so as the move the foot forward?"


I answered that it would increase the rake and 
then incorrectly stated that increased rake 
would decrease weather helm.  Fellow listers 
quickly corrected my error...repeatedly.  After 
being corrected for the third or forth time I 
decided to reeducate myself.  During this review 
it occured to me that all I was previously 
considering was the rake.  Rich's comments made 
me consider the placement of the sail in 
relation to the boat.  As such I possed the 
question to Rich that moving the foot forward 
does increase rake but actually moves the bulk 
of the sail forward.  What is the net effect?


There it is, fire at will.

Josh

Rich,



Less rake = less weather helm.  If you go far 
enough, you end up with lee helm, which can be 
dangerous.  I doubt you have enough adjustment to get that far though.




Jake



Jake Brodersen

Midnight Mistress

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 1:36 PM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step



Hi All. Ive been having an offline conversation with Josh, see below.



Perhaps someone else might like to answer Joshs questions as I cant



Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 2, 2015, at 17:41, Josh Muckley 
<muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:




Doesn't the luff moves forward when you move the 
foot forward?  The original poster was asking 
about placement of wood blocks.  He had all 4 
blocks forward of the mast and the mask back all 
the way aft.  I assumed that in moving the 
blocks to move the mast forward that this would 
move the foot forward as well.  No mention of 
changing headstay length so I assumed it to be 
the fixed point in all of this.  Based on these 
assumptions the trailing edge of the mast and 
the luff edge of the sail would also move 
forward but the mast as a whole would have more rake.  Right?


Josh

On May 2, 2015 6:53 PM, "Rich Knowles" 
<r..

Re: Stus-List RudderPostCollar

2015-05-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Eric,

The rudder won't fall out of the quadrant is attached. That said, I
would block between the quadrant and top of rudder log (boat part) or
use one of these

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/34312?r=~|categoryl1:%22603582%20Power%20Transmission%209and%20Motors%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22608501%20Collars,%20Couplings%209and%20Components%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22603515%20Shaft%20Collars%22|~%20~|sattr01:^%222-Piece%20Clamping%20Collar%22$|~
two piece collars clamped to the stock under the quadrant to keep
things in place.
Then you can take apart the upper works and fix things, in the water,
whenever you have a mind to.

The 35-1 uses one of these collars at the top of the shaft log
instead of the fancy arrangement that you have.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:56 PM 03/05/2015, you wrote:
In checking out Cat's Paw today in preparation for launching, I
noticed cracks in the collar around the rudder post where it comes
through the cockpit floor (C&C 35 Mk II, 1974). The collar looks
like an aluminum casting, probably the original one. First, is this
sufficiently serious I should not even launch until it is fixed? The
rudder is held up by the fitting above that with the two large allen
screws, so I doubt the rudder will fall out. And the rudder still
turns easily. Second, where should I look for a replacement collar?
Presumably the rudder will need to be dropped, or at least held up
so it won't fall out when the upper fitting is removed. So will the
boat need to be hauled to do that? We are sailing in the Figawi
race in less than 3 weeks, so I doubt it can be fixed before
that. Advice please.

Here is a picture of the cracked collar:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0

Eric
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List C&C 34 rig tune

2015-05-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Chuck,

try this worksheet for designations:
http://www.colligomarine.com/docs/guidelines/colligorigdescriptor1_2.pdf

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Nanaimo, but on the way to Thetis Island soon.

At 06:58 AM 08/05/2015, you wrote:

Hello list gurus,

Armed with my newly acquired Loos RT-10 and a decent bosun's chair, 
I plan to enlist a few strong friends to hoist me up the mast this 
weekend and tune the rig.

Anyone have decent numbers for the C&C 34 shrouds?
And what are we calling the above the spreader pair (upper & 
intermediate), lower section of the upper and then lower?


Thanks in advance for any advice,

Chuck B
C&C 34 Elusive
Somerset, MA
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

2015-05-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


At 09:37 AM 06/05/2015, you wrote:
On start up last summer departing Powell River 
our CC37+ Paikea started steaming as we motored 
toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that 
change! I powered back to near idle and limped 
back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so then 
disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the 
impellor even though it looked sound.  I figured 
the next easy step would to be make sure I am 
getting supply so I started working toward the 
through hull.  Nothing but a trickle through any 
of the hoses.  Itâs funny how you anticipate 
the worst case.   I removed the clamps on the 
through hull with the valve shut and pulled off 
the hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head 
and two eyes.  A sardine had taken a head first 
plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and 
a 3â fish shot into the bilge.  The trip had 
not gone well for him, but it sure had improved on my end!

Cheers Rick Paikea   Poulsbo, WA



What a coincidence.

We had the same problem on Sweet many years ago 
in that area. Lund was the first instance and 
overheating occurs before getting past the 
breakwater. It became routine for us on that 
cruise to crush some taco chips over the port 
side, engine intake to starboard, and watch the 
little fish gather. Then start and get the heck 
out of the marina before any tried to make it into the water strainer.


Good times.

Cheers, Russ
 Sweet, 35 mk-1



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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

2015-05-12 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal??

Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, 
was less than $200... installed!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is 
stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if 
he's bringing dye but he's already given me a 
price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 
plus. I just want peace of mind.Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

2015-05-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Oops. Correction by a boat buck. Sweet's gang replacement was $1200, not 200.

Of course, we don't get much of anything for a boat if $200 is all ya got.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:18 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote:


250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal??

Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, 
was less than $200... installed!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is 
stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if 
he's bringing dye but he's already given me a 
price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 
plus. I just want peace of mind.Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack -> terms

2015-05-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight 
is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not 
a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be 
properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each 
other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts 
to prevent movement and elongation of holes.


I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the 
term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of 
as many other old terms as I can.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and 
then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud 
and the tang have to rotate as one.
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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack -> terms

2015-05-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Rob,

I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using
as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to
belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see
little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge
them back to goodness again.

You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to -> terms.

But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is
not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get
misused and into the mainstream in the first place.

If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt & compression tubes
(check the flange bushings for repair) :

http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm

http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF

Then I might call, "Uncle!"

My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include
favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry & Brion Toss. I'm slowly
catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island.

I have a story with a trusted rigger to share.
When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds & forestay
done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops,
his stock didn't have the correct size. "No problem." he says, "I'll
upgrade you, up one size at no cost."

"No thanks." says I, "When will the right size be here?"

You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too
small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works
for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any
difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more
expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well.

Humans are kinda funny in a way.

That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me
started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ:
I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the
standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the
boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie
bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn
through by the wire from the main halyard.

This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking
about as a 'TIE BAR' and "threaded at 12mm at both ends"pic is
not of a 'tie bar' obviously.

<http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm>http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm

And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used
the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is
called, to hold the tangs together.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S

On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs
tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a
stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it
can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards
each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden
masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes.

I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the
term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of
as many other old terms as I can.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang
and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the
shroud and the tang have to rotate as one.

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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack -> terms

Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is.

As in, pull the red "inny outy" on the left side.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ,

So calling a halyard an "uppy downy" line and a
sheet an "inny outy" line doesn't work?Â :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ & Melody
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Rob,Â

I can understand your confusion with a term you
are comfortable using as it was provided by a
rigger you trust. My intention is not to
belittle you or anybody else but to point out to
everybody when I see little things start to get
outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again.

You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to -> terms.

But seriously... providing copy from a
mega-store discount website is not the best
tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how
terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place.

If these guys used tie-bar instead of
throughbolt & compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) :
<http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm>http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm

Or this British guy who is still using looped
eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if
an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He
references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting.
<http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF>http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF

Then I might call, "Uncle!"Â

My references are mostly on paper, like a
library, and include favourites such as Bruce
Bingham, Bob Perry & Brion Toss. I'm slowly
catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island.

I have a story with a trusted rigger to share.
When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap
shrouds & forestay done (with Harken furler
rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his
stock didn't have the correct size. "No
problem." he says, "I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost."

"No thanks." says I, "When will the right size be here?"

You see, a rigging wire too big is no better
than a rigging wire too small and my trusted
professional couldn't see that because he works
for a living and in this case it probably would
not have made any difference and most customers
would appreciate getting a more expensive
product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well.

Humans are kinda funny in a way.

That's probably enough for now, unless someone
wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Vancouver Island

At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ:
I too like to use the appropriate nautical
term.Â Â When we put the standing rigging
together for the first time after purchasing
the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum
'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the
rigger from North Sails called it was approx.
half worn through by the wire from the main halyard.

This yacht shop in the below website advertises
what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and
"threaded at 12mm at both ends"pic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously.

<http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm>http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm

And yes, we have the compression tube inside
the mast .we used the original one with a
new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S

On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast
to hold the tangs tight is a called
through-bolt (even though in most cases it is
a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a
compression tube so it can be properly
tightened without deflecting the mast sides
towards each other. The compression tube was
especially important in wooden masts to
prevent movement and elongation of holes.

I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede
most people use the term salon instead of
saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can.

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Vancouver Island

At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap
shroud in its tang and then screw the tang
into the tie bar inside the mast.the
shroud and the tang have to rotate as one.Â

Re: Stus-List Rig - crack -> terms

Not I, but I have trimmed a spinny while holding a red line with white tracer.

My spinny inny outty is green with white tracer, both sides. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:27 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:

God forbid you use "red fleck" or "red trace" for the white lines.

Dennis C.

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Russ & Melody
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is.

As in, pull the red "inny outy" on the left side.

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ,

So calling a halyard an "uppy downy" line and a
sheet an "inny outy" line doesn't work?ÃÂ :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ & Melody
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Rob,ÃÂ
I can understand your confusion with a term you
are comfortable using as it was provided by a
rigger you trust. My intention is not to
belittle you or anybody else but to point out
to everybody when I see little things start to
get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again.
You might have noticed I deleted all reference
to you in my reply to -> terms.
But seriously... providing copy from a
mega-store discount website is not the best
tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how
terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place.
If these guys used tie-bar instead of
throughbolt & compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) :
<http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm>http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm

Then I might call, "Uncle!"ÃÂ
My references are mostly on paper, like a
library, and include favourites such as Bruce
Bingham, Bob Perry & Brion Toss. I'm slowly
catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island.

I have a story with a trusted rigger to share.
When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the
cap shrouds & forestay done (with Harken furler
rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops,
his stock didn't have the correct size. "No
problem." he says, "I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost."

"No thanks." says I, "When will the right size be here?"
You see, a rigging wire too big is no better
than a rigging wire too small and my trusted
professional couldn't see that because he works
for a living and in this case it probably would
not have made any difference and most customers
would appreciate getting a more expensive
product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well.

Humans are kinda funny in a way.
That's probably enough for now, unless someone
wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.

Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Cheers, Russ
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Sweet 35 mk-1
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Vancouver Island

At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ:
I too like to use the appropriate nautical
term.Ã ÃÂ When we put the standing rigging
together for the first time after purchasing
the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum
'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the
rigger from North Sails called it was approx.
half worn through by the wire from the main halyard.

This yacht shop in the below website
advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE
BAR' and "threaded at 12mm at both
ends"pic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously.

<http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm>http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm
And yes, we have the compression tube inside
the mast .we used the original one with a
new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S

On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

A little term bitchin' here.
The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast
to hold the tangs tight is a called
through-bolt (even though in most cases it is
a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a
compression tube so it can be properly
tightened without deflecting the mast sides
towards each other. The compression tube was
especially important in wooden masts to
prevent movement and elongation of holes.
I may be pissin in the wind here and I
concede most people use the

Re: Stus-List Prop walk 29-2



You nailed it Steve.

Here's a graphic & description of the back & fill.
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/backfill.htm
(no affiliation to site, blah blah)

I will caution that the ubiquitous furled jib can 
play havoc with this action if it's windy.


It was 1983 that I learned this maneuver actually had a name. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:42 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:
I didn't see the original post but it sounds 
like the prop walk is a challenge .. it was for 
me too, and it continues to be sometimes (docked 
to port on the windward side of a dock needing 
to back out). Anyway, it's really useful 
sometimes .. I use the backing turn all the 
time! Lock the wheel hard starboard and shift 
into reverse, throttle up, throttle down, (aka 
"blip" the throttle) neutral, keep the wheel 
locked, shift into forward, throttle up, 
throttle down, neutral, rinse and repeat and you 
can do 360s in a boat length all day long 
without moving the wheel a point. Just apply 
enough throttle to get very slight way on and 
then shift the other way, keeping the wheel 
locked hard starboard. Works a treat. I've 
actually used this when backing out to starboard 
was needed but wind would be a challenge .. I'de 
back out to port and then do a backing turn to 
get me pointed back the right way. Sometimes you 
don't have a spring line .. (I'm on a med 
mooring and holding onto the mooring lines is 
both messy and sketchy when there's risk of 
fouling the prop, I'm always short handed with 
the admiral doing bow lines leaving me alone aft).Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 11:20 AM, jackbrennan 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Don't forget about using a floating spring line 
if you need to back out to starboard.


Tie off one end of the line to your starboard 
stern cleat, then run it around the rear piling and back to the cockpit.


As you are reversing, slight tension on the line 
keeps your stern from going to port. Once you've 
cleared enough of the slip, more tension will bring the stern to starboard.


Once you get the hang of it, the technique works in all conditions.

Use a floating line to avoid tangling it in the prop.Â

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy TabÂ®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Bob Hickson via CnC-List
Date:05/15/2015 10:49 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List Prop walk 29-2

Hi Martin,

Â

I bought a 29-2 in the US in the spring of 2012.

The original prop (think it was C&C original) 
was a fixed 2 blade  Feederal Sailor 14RH9.


Prop walk was bad with this prop.

In the spring of 2013, I swapped the prop for a 
used CDI, 3 blade feathering prop with a 13 inch 
diameter. This prop has an adjustable pitch and 
I do not know what it is set at. The prop was 
purchased from another 29-2 owner and the pitch was set up for the boat.


Performance with this prop is a huge 
improvement. Much more aggressive thrust with 
the 3 blades in forward and reverse. The boat 
stops and accelerates very quickly. Also a 
slight improvement in boat speed up to 6  6.5 
knots withh no issues even in strong headwinds and heavy seas.


Even with this prop, walk is still a concern.

You can manage it as others have suggested.

When backing out of my slip (requires turn to 
starboard) I give a very strong burst of reverse 
(~5 seconds) to get the boat moving. Immediately 
throttle back, shift into neutral and steer. If 
you lose way, another burst of reverse may be needed.


When conditions are really bad with a strong 
cross wind from the port side, I will back out 
of my slip to port and back down the fairway 
between slips until I clear the docks and can turn.


When entering my slip, I angle in with the bow 
slightly to the port side. A quick shot of 
reverse with very little throttle will 
straighten the boat in the slip and stop it.


Â

Hope this helps.

Â

Fair Winds,

Â

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchmanâs Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com

Â

Â

Â

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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki KBW10 Transmission Leakage


Hi Brad,

I did this on my 2QM20 with Kanzaki gearbox.

Output flange removal can be difficult because of the tight space and 
if I remember correctly there is a locking tab that gets pushed out 
of the way before trying to remove nut.
I had to do it at sea once (off Pachena Point, rolling sea, long 
story). To secure the output flange I passed a long bolt through the 
gearbox side coupling half and jammed a pry bar between bolt and hub 
so it will bear against the hull when breaking free the nut.

You need to move the prop shaft aft enough for the above to work, of course.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:56 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:


Maybe this has been asked or covered before?  Has anyone experienced 
transmission fluid leaking from the rear of their transmission?  I 
suspect it is a rear seal that has worn or gone bad.  Were you able 
to have the seal replaced with the transmission in the boat or did 
you have to remove the transmission?


Wondering what I am in for,

Brad
Dora Pearl
C&C 36
Seattle
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Re: Stus-List Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller retaining pin

2015-05-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Pete,

I expect it is spring steel if you're dealing 
with a (split) ring. So it's difficult to drill.


The simplest method is to dress it flush with the 
pin surface as best you can, file or grinder, and 
drill a new hole ~90 degrees from the old. A 
little away from the old path if you have enough 
material towards the end so you don't bump into 
the old ring on your way through. It helps to 
flatten the surface & centre punch where you want to drill.


If you try acid then get the strongest that you 
are comfortable working with and wear eye 
protection, gloves, blah blah. Don't worry about 
the S/S pin, our 93% strength sulfuric acid pumps 
& piping is stainless steel. Then when ready try 
to drive it out with a pin punch instead of drilling.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:04 AM 16/05/2015, you wrote:

Pete,
For what itâs worth, Citric Acid will eat the 
rust(iron) and not effect the stainless.  I am 
not sure how you would use that info.  Maybe 
soak the area intermittently with a 10% citric 
solution.  I donât think it will harm your fiberglass.

The powdered drink âTangâ is high in Citric acid.
Cheers
Rick
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
On May 15, 2015, at 4:36 PM, 
kellype...@msn.com 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Listers, please give me advice.
Due to inferior steel, a cotter ring has rusted 
badly, and I am unable to remove the remnants from the pin.
So far, a hardened-steel drill bit (Irwin 
brand) is simply enlarging the hole around the 
edges, but not removing the ring remnants.

Is there chemical solution?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


Pete W.
Siren. Song
'91 C & C 30 MkII
Deltaville, Va.




Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Tablet


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Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag

2015-05-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Jonathan,

In a conversation where I mentioned "Past Commodore", I was told by 
an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With 
that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown 
in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee.


At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore 
unless he completes the full term.


So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO.

Cheers, Russ  P.C.
Sweet, 35 mk-1
Nanaimo Yacht Club


At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote:
Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a 
past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is 
moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of 
the boat was NOT Commodore.  Etiquette rules that I can find are 
explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and 
references to past Commodore's flags


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag

2015-05-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hoo boy,

The below should read "... an executive member does not qualify as 
Past Commodore unless he (she) completes the full term (of Commodore).


This writing stuff is like "math is hard" too.

Cheers, Russ

(Alberta people will know what the remark means. :)

At 10:24 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote:

Hi Jonathan,

At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore 
unless he completes the full term.
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Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag -> cows in spring


Hi Stelios,

How about our quest for etiquette, "milking a dead cow"?

The other thought was, "it's gone udder up" but I'm pretty sure I 
just made up that one.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:34 PM 18/05/2015, Stelios wrote:

Here are the proper ones

http://www.commodoreinsignia.com/flags_signals.asp

Toes up or down? Interesting.
Reminds me of a  phrase used when a cow dies. Hmmm I just can't recall it!
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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...


Hi David,

Probably a pitted shaft at the seal area. Replace shaft & seal no big 
deal, assess bearing(s) at the same time.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:04 PM 18/05/2015, you wrote:

Rick,

Thank you.   Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from 
the  impeller which internally circulates the glycol.


I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its 
design.   Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend.


FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too.   Leaking 
shaft.  $400 for a pump.  Whodathunk?


Damn.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



--
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 18:44:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: rickbr...@earthlink.net

David,



If I'm not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh 
water cooled engine, not raw water.




Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of the engine 
circulates water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat 
exchanger, the second pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then 
to the exhaust mixing elbow?




If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the sea water 
pump, there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger.




Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
David via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...



Thanks all.

Checked obvious hose areas.  Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, 
seemed fine, Will be launched  tomorrow.  As we are Bermuda bound in 
June I need to find that puppy as it will invariably find its way to 
the worst spot at the worst time.   My guess its in the after market 
(Sen-Dur) heat exchanger.


Wish me luck.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose.

On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent 
cooling problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of 
the time when it had been run for a while, then stopped, then 
started again. The whistle was annoying...




I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come 
apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and 
assembled them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing 
still in the engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to 
overheating every so often like it used to do.




I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... 
After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing 
the zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to 
the zinc at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled 
the hose going to the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a 
piece of an impeller which was hard as a rock and coated in rust 
stuck in there. The impeller I had just pulled was recent, no rust 
and not hard. All the other impellers I have changed in 20+ years of 
ownership had been whole.


The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there 
for years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once 
it was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year!




Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go.



Gary Nylander

30-1 Maryland

- Original Message -

From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Rick Rohwer

Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...



Hi David,

i'll chime in and hope it helps.



If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all 
the way through the cooling system and you are free as rain!




If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between 
the pump and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as 
when it left.  In a raw water cooled application, that means it 
could be anywhere in the cooling system of your engine block, 
potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage.  In a fresh 
water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger 
or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases.




Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the 
pump, work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the 
hoses hoping that it lodged in that line prior to entering the 
block.  Hang on to any chunks you find so you can get an idea of how 
pulverized it is.  After that point i d

Re: Stus-List Prop Walk C&C 29-2


Hi Josh,

Prop wash is the disturbed, somewhat aerated, 
water left behind the boat when motoring. It can 
be a good place to troll for bluebacks in the spring. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:09 PM 18/05/2015, you wrote:


Rick, Is their such a thing as prop-wash?  If so what is it?

Josh
On May 18, 2015 7:22 PM, "Rick Brass via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Josh, the proper term for what you are 
describing is torque steer, not prop wash.




Torque steer to port in forward is present on 
all single screw boats with a RH prop, just as 
prop walk to port in reverse. A boat with a LH 
prop will torque steer to starboard, and prop walk to starboard.




Torque steer and prop walk are primarily cause 
by the differential in water pressure between 
the upper and lower blades as the prop rotates. 
This generates a side thrust perpendicular to 
the prop shaft. The amount of side thrust is 
impacted by the diameter of the prop and the 
pitch of the blades, and by the speed of 
rotation of the prop. The more of each, the greater the thrust.




I recently changed from a 17x10 Martec to a 16 
1/2x11 Gori that has noticeably thicker blades 
with more pitch. I was surprised at the increase in torque steer and prop walk.




Torque steer is generally more pronounced than 
prop walk because of the general greater engine 
speed in forward gear  though when backing at 
low speeds the prop walk can generate a lot more 
side thrust than the rudder can.




My friend has a new-to-her 29-2 with a 2gm13F 
and the standard 14x9RH prop, and that boat prop 
walks like a bitch until you get some aft way on the boat.




On power boats with outboards and out drives (no 
rudder) the effect of torque steer is generally 
compensated by the presence of a small skeg or 
adjustable tab on the on the drive housing that 
is adjusted to offset the effect of torque steer 
and let the boat run in a straight line. Larger 
boats with a shaft drive (like ours) have rudders that can compensate.




Twin screw boats typically have counter rotating 
(1 RH and 1 LH) props so there is no torque 
steer or prop walk with both engines running at 
similar RPMs. Unfortunately this isnt always 
true  the 81 foot tour boat I work on has 2 
300HP Volvo Penta outdrives and both are RH. The 
torque steer is colossal, and makes handling the boat a constant struggle.




Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 9:45 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Walk C&C 29-2



Sounds reasonable.  To add on, would you agree 
that the spinning column of water which gets 
split by the rudder when going forward is then 
responsible for the phenomenon called 
prop-wash?  I feel some pretty substantial wash 
and a pretty strong pull to port when full 
throttle but a reasonable and balanced helm when sailing.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 16, 2015 2:08 AM, "Knowles Rich via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Well, this might be just the right time to float 
a theory Ive had for some time about prop walk.  Here it is:




When the propellor is spinning, it produces a 
rotating horizontal column or spinning cylinder 
of water molecules which move away from the 
propellor along its axis. When the boat is going 
forward, this rotating column is left in the 
wake and, other than being split equally by the 
rudder as the boat moves forward, the spinning 
column has little to no effect on the 
directional performance of the boat as it is 
left behind in the wake and gradually dissipates.




When the propellor is put in reverse, forcing 
water to the front of the boat as it pulls the 
hull backwards, the column of spinning water 
leaving the prop is no longer free to dissipate 
in the wake, but encounters the hull of the boat 
immediately in front of the propellor. If you 
consider the column of water as a spinning 
cylinder made up of molecules of water, the 
outer wall of the cylinder striking the hull 
will cause it to roll up the side of the boat 
away from the keel and toward the surface, and 
the spinning molecules in the interior of the 
cylinder will be directed away from the centre 
line of the hull and off to the side.




To see this in action, put your stationary boat 
in reverse and note on which side of the boat 
the water is agitated. If you have a right 
handed prop that turns left when in reverse, the 
column of water will be directed to the 
starboard side of the boat and will therefore 
push the stern of the boat to port. If you have 
a left handed propellor that turns to the right 
in reverse, the column of water will be directed 
to the port or left side of the boat pushing the 
stern to starboard. Thus the much cursed and 
very

Re: Stus-List Problem with reverse