Re: [Elecraft] A shameless plug for the SP3

2018-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
I've noticed a similar situation recently.  I sent a message about KX3 
roofing filters and got responses but never received MY original post 
until a few days later!   Just thought I'd mention it.  Stan WB2LQF



On Mon, Feb 05, 2018 at 08:47 AM, Chuck Milam, N9KY wrote:

Interesting E-Mail hiccup here:  I never saw N6KR's initial post on 
the
SP3, only the reply below.  I wonder if the original message will show 
up

eventually?  I don't see it in my spam folder, either.

---
Chuck Milam, N9KY
n...@arrl.net

On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 8:35 PM, Bill Johnson  wrote:

I use mini Bose. Two HAM guests were amazed at the quality of 
diversity

sound.

Have a great day,
Bill J


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net on behalf of Wayne Burdick 
Sent: Thursday, February 1, 2018 11:02:51 PM

To: Elecraft Reflector
Cc: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft] A shameless plug for the SP3

I use a pair of SP3 speakers with my home K3S. If you use Elecraft's 
AFX

feature (main receiver alone) or if you’re using both main and sub
receivers at the same time, you’ll be amazed, like me, at how 
expansive the
stereo audio space “feels" with speakers this good. It can reduce 
operating

fatigue, help with diversity reception, and take full advantage of
broadcast-quality signals.

To make sure we got the SP3’s acoustics right, we collaborated with 
an
expert in the field--literally a professor of audio physics. He 
helped us
select the speaker, specify the cabinet materials, and ensure there 
were no
oddities anywhere in the frequency range. The cabinet is rock-solid, 
using
overlapping segments to eliminate all edge-to-edge joinery. You could 
just

about park a truck on one (well, OK, a small import).

Several SP3 owners have posted comments here:

   http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/13281

...so you don’t have to take my word for it.

In addition to its great sound, the SP3 includes a front-panel switch 
for
selecting between two mono or stereo audio sources, e.g. two 
transceivers.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] KX3 Roofing Filter Question

2018-01-29 Thread stan levandowski
I am going to order another KX3 this week. Probably tomorrow.  The last 
one I ordered in 2012 did not have the roofing filter option and I do 
not THINK I missed it.


I use ONLY CW and I do NOT contest.  I like to CASUALLY chase DX and I 
play in low stress sprints like NAQCC but mostly I just like to RAG 
CHEW.



My antenna is an EFHW installed as a "half square" in trees at 30 feet 
(MyAntennas 4010).



I have reviewed the Elecraft site notes, and done a fair amount of 
Googling and I now am more confused than ever.  It seems that the real 
value lies in dealing with strong signals, crowded bands and ferocious 
contesting conditions.



My bottom line question is this:  If I DO NOT get the roofing filter 
option will my KX3 receiver be LESS SENSITIVE?  The Sherwood report 
shows a pre-amp off sensitivity of .9 uv which improves to a very 
impressive .09 with the preamp on.  Is this somehow related to the 
roofing filter?



I am especially concerned because I remember doing an A/B comparison on 
a weak signal between my previous KX3 and my 55 year old Drake 2B and 
the 2B beat the crap out of the factory built KX3.  I can't help 
wondering if the roofing filter I didn't buy in 2012 had something to do 
with this.



I sure could use a real simple answer:  buy it or don't buy it?  CW 
sensitivity is my ultimate goal because if I can't hear 'em I can't work 
'em.



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] K2 for sale

2018-01-10 Thread stan levandowski

Please contact me off-list if interested.

For sale is my K2 (purchased pre-owned from another lister in November 
2017).  It is a K2/10 and fully optioned with 160M option, noise 
blanker, KIO2, KAT2, KAF2, KSB2.  Includes Kenwood mic MC-43S and 
Signalink USB and full complement of written documentation, including 
technical report from Don W3FPR who upgraded it to factory spec on 
August 28, 2017.



Since I only operate HF QRP CW I can't comment on the SSB or digital 
aspects but I can surely state it's a gorgeous CW rig, both 
operationally and cosmetically.



Reason for selling is simple and straightforward:  I want to buy another 
KX3 because I miss CWT and dual watch.



Asking $750 + shipping and insurance via PayPal to CONUS only..


Thanks and 73, 
Stan WB2LQF

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Unplanned Discovery - UPDATE

2017-11-24 Thread stan levandowski


Howard, I received the core and the replacement choke earlier today.


I put the core on the 25' RG174 feedline right at the 9:1 UNUN and was 
able to wind 10 turns.  Then I connected a 33' counterpoise wire to the 
output BNC using a hose clamp.  This was just a quickie "temporary" 
installation as it was getting dark here in NY.



With no other changes made, I tried tuning up on 80, 40, 30 and 20 with 
my K2/10 and its internal KAT2 tuner.



My 80 meter SWR which had been 1.1:1 was now an unusable 2.8:1.  This 
makes sense to me if the choke was now keeping the common mode currents 
from using "everything" connected to the K2!!  I would EXPECT 80 meters 
to have a high SWR for a 33' wire and it did!  My 40 meter SWR went from 
1.2:1 to 1:1.  My 30 meter SWR went from 1.7:1 to 1:1 and my 20 meter 
SWR went from 1.1:1 to 1:1.  I was only able to make one quick contact 
but that was a pretty good one - Corsica - on 20M QRP.



Then I put the new choke you sent me on the DC cable IN ADDITION to the 
cracked one that I already had on.  I detected NO NOISE at this point.  
Switching back and forth from battery to Kx33 did NOT change the noise 
level.



Of course, I'm going to keep experimenting through radial placement, 
elevation and number of radials but for now, it looks like you solved my 
"noise problem."



That's a nifty sized little Kx33 power supply you sell and I'm glad I 
didn't give up on it.  I'm very pleased with the personal support you 
provided to me.



Well, the CQWW starts in 15 minutes and I'm looking forward to a 'no 
noise' weekend!



73, Stan WB2LQF


On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 03:07 PM, i...@proaudioeng.com wrote:


Hi Stan,

That is great news regarding the antenna being outside, it is my
  experience and that of many customers that a common-mode (CM)
  choke at the feedpoint of an end-fed outside is highly effective
  at decoupling the feedline as part of the active antenna.



In my opinion, and those of another expert in the field Jim
  Brown, it is money wasted purchasing a CM choke.  If you had not
  taken a look at his excellent paper on the subject here is the
  link: http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf 
<http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf>


Before I was able to measure the performance of chokes I had
  purchased both a W2DU and  DX Engineering choke myself, and
  thought they worked OK, but had no way to tell.  Once I started
  merely winding coax on mix 31 ferrites, I noticed they worked
  better than the ones I bought, and the cores are cheap.  I ended
  up selling the DX Engineering unit and in it's place I have two
  2.4" mix 31 cores stacked (for higher power handling) with 8 
turns

  of RG-8X, and it is superior.  Here is a chart showing how
  effective winding as many as 6-14 turns around that core can be, 
I

  suggest 8-10 turns depending on the size of coax you are using:



I will send you a replacement for the small choke which broke in
  shipment, I am sorry for that.  I will also send you a 2.4"
  diameter mix 31 toroid core so you can make your own CM choke at
  the feedpoint.  The core is weatherproof, so don't worry about it
  getting wet.  I look forward to getting reports from you as to 
the

  progress taming this CM noise pickup, and thank you for your
  patience!  Ease of choking CM RFI is the real advantage to the
  Kx33 you purchased relative to other switchers, it is a
  characteristic we worked hard to engineer into the supply.



Cheers & 73,

Howie - WA4PSC






  On 11/21/2017 2:30 PM, stan levandowski wrote:





Howard, thank you for the info
and the offer.  


 


YES, I would love to have a new
ferrite.  The one that was shipped was neatly cracked in half! 
I used it anyway; didn't figure it mattered that much as the
mass was still there.






And YES, I am going to install
additional counterpoises right at the 9:1 UNUN and spread them
out.  The antenna is not in the attic, it is outside as a 
sloper
from the rear of my townhouse up to the top of a 35' pine 
tree. 

It's working great so far.  Worked Paraguay last night on 20M
and Belgium this morning also on 20M.  K2@5 watts. 






Do you have a recommendation for
an effective choke at the UNUN?  Beads, a coax choke, something
from DX Engineering like their 1:1 isolator??  






Thanks and 73, Stan WB2LQF





On Tue, Nov 21, 2017 at 01:28 PM, i...@proaudioeng.com 
<mailto:i...@proaudioeng.com>  wrote:






Hi Stan,

Thank you for the reply!  Regarding antennas; I feel your
pain!  I have had to endure less-than-optimum antenna 
setups

many times as well.

One of the aspects of common-mode currents is they are
reciprocal between transmit and receive.  In transmit they
  

Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - Unplanned Discovery

2017-11-19 Thread stan levandowski
Yeah, me too.  I bought it because I thought it would be "super clean" 
and really small.  But its contribution to my problem was pretty much 
unarguable:  Plug it in and I hear noise.  Unplug it and I don't hear 
noise.  The instructions that came with it specifically stated that the 
Kx33 should be placed the full length of the DC plug/cord away from the 
transceiver.  I did that but it didn't work for me.  I tried different 
outlets around the house too.  I put chokes on it.  No joy.



My post is not a complaint about the Kx33 mfgr, or the Samlex 
Corporation or anyone else.  Maybe it's my transceiver, maybe it's my 
equipment, maybe it's my utility service.I'm not qualified to say or 
knowledgeable to analyze.



I simply wanted to suggest to others in the Elecraft family that if they 
have "noise" it might be right under their nose and worth checking out 
vs. blaming propagation or the next door neighbor  ;-)



P.S. -  My "noise problem" is about two years old and coincides with the 
purchase of my first switch mode power supply.  I had a perfectly good 
linear supply made by Astron but I deemed it too big and klutzy and 
dumped it.  Another one of my great decisions



73, Stan WB2LQF


Nov 19, 2017 at 08:05 PM, JT Croteau wrote:


I'm really surprised you had an issue with the KX33 supply.

- JT


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[Elecraft] (OT) - Unplanned Discovery

2017-11-19 Thread stan levandowski
Most people on this Reflector are well educated and intelligent.  
Apparently, I'm the exception because this one got by me.  I'm only 
owning up to this in the hope that it might help someone else on the 
Reflector. 


For the last couple of years I've been bothered by a high background 
noise level.   It happened on my K1, K2, K3, KX2 and KX3.   I attributed 
this to the fact that my antenna has been in my attic for the last 
fifteen years and propagation hasn't been good lately.



I just got official permission from the HOA to install an end fed wire 
outside.  I was thrilled.  I put it up.  The darn thing wasn't any 
better than the attic doublet.  Noisy as heck!  What a letdown!



So I'm laying in bed last night reflecting on how my little KX1 was the 
only Elecraft radio that never had noise problems and seemed to have a 
receiver quieter than my K3.



Whoa!  The KX1 always ran on batteries...could it be?


I just took delivery on a brand new Kx33 Low RFI power supply a couple 
days ago. It was advertised in the last QST.   Previous to that, I've 
been using a Samlex 1235M.  For the heck of it,  I connected my K2 to an 
SLA battery and the noise was still there.  But when I disconnected the 
Kx33 power supply from the wall, the noise level dropped dramatically.  
Then I switched to the Samlex and the noise came back.  Back on the 
battery, the noise dropped again as long as the power supplies were 
unplugged and dead.



I have a laptop next to the computer.  When I pulled the plug on the 
laptop supply, the rest of the noise went away.  I was down to S0/S1 and 
CW signals were popping out all over the band again.  Running the 
computer on its internal battery did NOT contribute any noise.  It was 
the computer power supply.



Now that I am totally on batteries, I also appear to be immune from both 
the gas furnace and the dishwasher motor both of which caused me 
problems when using the AC supplies.  YES, I HAD CHOKES ON ALL SUPPLIES, 
CABLES, WIRE.



I've been on the air all day with my new outside antenna, on battery 
power,  making contacts near and far and I feel like I've hit the 
jackpot.  Since I'm totally QRP and CW, being limited to batteries is 
not an issue.



If you're going to check your own supplies out, remember they've got to 
be OFF/UNPLUGGED from the wall. Just disconnecting them from the 
radio/computer isn't enough.  It's RF.



73, Stan WB2LQF






1

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[Elecraft] (OT) - FOR SALE - SEC1235M AND W1 SOLD

2017-10-10 Thread stan levandowski

All gone.  Thanks and 73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) - FOR SALE - SEC1235M is SOLD

2017-10-10 Thread stan levandowski

SEC1235M has been SOLD.
Elecraft W1 SWR/PWR meter is still available.
--



Rebuilding my entire station from the ground up -- with Elecraft gear of 
course!


Following extra "stuff" is for sale.  Please contact me off list if 
interested.



1. Elecraft W1 PWR/SWR meter.  Purchased January 2017.  Works perfectly. 
$60.  Includes shipping.



2. Samlex SEC-1235M 13.8VDC 30A Power Supply.  Purchased January 2017.  
Mint Condx.  $75.  Includes shipping.



73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) - FOR SALE

2017-10-09 Thread stan levandowski
Rebuilding my entire station from the ground up -- with Elecraft gear of 
course!


Following extra "stuff" is for sale.  Please contact me off list if 
interested.



1. Elecraft W1 PWR/SWR meter.  Purchased January 2017.  Works perfectly. 
$60.  Includes shipping.



2. Samlex SEC-1235M 13.8VDC 30A Power Supply.  Purchased January 2017.  
Mint Condx.  $75.  Includes shipping.



73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 with BL2 Question

2017-10-04 Thread stan levandowski
Thank you to everyone for the rapid responses.  Now I know my options.  
As a long time feedpoint autocoupler user, this is a new approach for me 
and it's nice to get advice before cutting wire and cable up.

73, Stan WB2LQF


On Wed, Oct 04, 2017 at 09:26 AM, stan levandowski wrote:

When operating a KX3 with the internal ATU into a window line fed 
doublet through a BL2 balun, what is the preferred connection method:


1.  Placing the BL2 right at the KX3 output eliminating any coax.  
This puts the window line right next to the metal KX3, everything else 
on the operating desk and the operator.



2.  Placing the BL2 five feet away and higher which puts the window 
line further away and connecting it to the KX3 through a short coax 
jumper.



3.  Placing the balun (weathered-proofed) right at the doublet's 
center and using coax for the whole run to the KX3.



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF



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[Elecraft] KX3 with BL2 Question

2017-10-04 Thread stan levandowski
When operating a KX3 with the internal ATU into a window line fed 
doublet through a BL2 balun, what is the preferred connection method:


1.  Placing the BL2 right at the KX3 output eliminating any coax.  This 
puts the window line right next to the metal KX3, everything else on the 
operating desk and the operator.



2.  Placing the BL2 five feet away and higher which puts the window line 
further away and connecting it to the KX3 through a short coax jumper.



3.  Placing the balun (weathered-proofed) right at the doublet's center 
and using coax for the whole run to the KX3.



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF



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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: KXPA100 and KX2 -- SOLD

2017-09-28 Thread stan levandowski


SOLD  SOLD SOLD
-

KXPA100-F (factory built) SN 2042 purchased 08/30/2016.  Includes 
KXPACBL  I/O cable for KX2/KX3,
power cable and KX2ACBL ACC cable.  Does NOT
include ATU option.   Asking $625.00,
shipped.


KX2-F purchased 06/24/2016 SN 0472. Does NOT include
internal ATU option.  Includes power cable and computer update cable.  
Asking $575.00,

shipped.


There are no internal ATUs in either unit because I use a
feedpoint autocoupler


Both units in absolute mint condx.  Never used in the field.  This has 
been my primary “at home only”

station.  See picture at my QRZ page.   All
manuals, documentation and invoices included.


Ship to CONUS only.   PayPal 
please.   Will ship each in its original Elecraft
packaging and shipping cartons via insured Priority Mail.


Reason for selling:   I want 6 meters too and I’m seriously thinking
about the K3S.


If interested, please contact me off list.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: KXPA100 and KX2

2017-09-28 Thread stan levandowski


KXPA100-F (factory built) SN 2042 purchased 08/30/2016.  Includes 
KXPACBL  I/O cable for KX2/KX3,
power cable and KX2ACBL ACC cable.  Does NOT
include ATU option.   Asking $625.00,
shipped.


KX2-F purchased 06/24/2016 SN 0472. Does NOT include
internal ATU option.  Includes power cable and computer update cable.  
Asking $575.00,

shipped.


There are no internal ATUs in either unit because I use a
feedpoint autocoupler


Both units in absolute mint condx.  Never used in the field.  This has 
been my primary “at home only”

station.  See picture at my QRZ page.   All
manuals, documentation and invoices included.


Ship to CONUS only.   PayPal 
please.   Will ship each in its original Elecraft
packaging and shipping cartons via insured Priority Mail.


Reason for selling:   I want 6 meters too and I’m seriously thinking
about the K3S.


If interested, please contact me off list.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/KXPA100 Drive Power

2017-09-20 Thread stan levandowski


Aaron, my SWR is being reported by the KX2 as below 1.2:1 at all times; 
usually 1:1. I'm using a window line fed doublet through an SGC-231 
autocoupler.  This situation occurs on all HF bands.  



I do not have either the KX2 internal ATU nor do I have the KXPA100 ATU. 
 Now you've got me wondering how accurate my KX2 SWR readout is -- I 
don't presently have an alternative way to check it.  My Elecraft W1 
crapped out awhile back.



The autocoupler has one million possible solutions so I've become 
accustomed to seeing 1:1 as the norm even when loading a rusty nail.  I 
think I better buy an independent SWR/PWR meter as a first step.



Someone else on this list privately emailed me and suggested I may not 
be getting a full 13.8 volts and the full current through my DC cable. 
 I'm using a switch mode supply - an SEC 1235M.



So I've got a couple things to check out now.  Thanks,


73, Stan WB2LQF

On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:50 PM, Aaron Marroquin wrote:

Hi Stan,


This sounds like the amp is folding back it's power. I encountered 
something similar on my KX3/KXPA100 when I had an issue with my antenna 
and was experiencing excessive SWR. Check the SWR indicators (both 
devices).


73,

Aaron KK6ZDB


On Tue, Sep 19, 2017, 20:12 stan levandowski <sjl...@optonline.net 
<mailto:sjl...@optonline.net> > wrote:

Since I'm basically a QRP op and rarely use more than 25 watts, I guess

I didn't notice when this "problem" actually began. So here's the issue:



My KX2 will show the power I've set with the knob precisely, right up to

110 watts.  However, my KXPA100's green LEDs seem to be about 20 watts

lower beginning at the 50 watt level.  For example, when I've set the

KX2 to 70 watts, the KX2 bar graph indeed reads 70 but the KXPA100 shows

the green 50 watt LED. At 100 watts the KX2 reads 100 but the KXPA100

reads 80 watts. At 25 watts, the KX2 and KXPA100 indications are in

agreement.





I don't know which piece of equipment to believe.





According to the KXPA100 manual (which ONLY refers to the KX3), it says

the drive levels have been set at the factory against a laboratory grade

KX3 and should not normally need to be messed around with.





So is the KX2 calibrated in equal fashion at the factory or do I need to

go through the CAL Pout routine for each band? 





Anybody else run into this situation?  





73, Stan WB2LQF

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[Elecraft] KX2/KXPA100 Drive Power

2017-09-19 Thread stan levandowski
Since I'm basically a QRP op and rarely use more than 25 watts, I guess 
I didn't notice when this "problem" actually began. So here's the issue:


My KX2 will show the power I've set with the knob precisely, right up to 
110 watts.  However, my KXPA100's green LEDs seem to be about 20 watts 
lower beginning at the 50 watt level.  For example, when I've set the 
KX2 to 70 watts, the KX2 bar graph indeed reads 70 but the KXPA100 shows 
the green 50 watt LED. At 100 watts the KX2 reads 100 but the KXPA100 
reads 80 watts. At 25 watts, the KX2 and KXPA100 indications are in 
agreement.



I don't know which piece of equipment to believe.


According to the KXPA100 manual (which ONLY refers to the KX3), it says 
the drive levels have been set at the factory against a laboratory grade 
KX3 and should not normally need to be messed around with.



So is the KX2 calibrated in equal fashion at the factory or do I need to 
go through the CAL Pout routine for each band? 



Anybody else run into this situation?  


73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) KX1 --- SOLD

2017-09-14 Thread stan levandowski


Sold - in about 10 minutes...
73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) FOR SALE: KX1

2017-09-14 Thread stan levandowski


KX1 serial #2967 purchased 12/08/2016 is for sale. 
Absolute mint condition.


Includes all options: KXAT1 internal ATU, KXB3080 adapter, and KXPD1. 
 Also includes Array Solutions 12 VDC @ 1 amp linear power supply.  
Shipped with all original documentation and invoices.



The KXB3080 option was built up and installed by Don Wilhelm on
01/10/2017 and the entire transceiver was inspected and adjusted by Don 
and

found to be totally within Elecraft spec.


Asking $475 and I will take care of shipping and
insurance. CONUS. PayPal.  If interested please email me offline.
Reason for selling:  I have a KX2.
73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (KX1) Can KXAT1 tune a doublet?

2017-06-10 Thread stan levandowski
The KXAT1 manual states that it can tune a *coaxial* dipole.  It also 
states that the KXAT1 is optimized to tune random wires.


I'd like to know if any fellow KX1 owners have successfully tuned a 300 
ohm twin-lead fed 44, 66 or 88 foot doublet with the KXAT1 for 40 and 20 
meters?



Or, do I need an external wider range tuner like the T1?


Thanks,


Stan WB2LQF



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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 antenna matching

2017-06-09 Thread stan levandowski
Thank you to all who offered suggestions, all of which helped me solve 
this nagging problem.



I bought a 33' tape measure from Harbor Freight.  I scrapped off the 
paint at the end, drilled a 3/16" hole and put a bolt, a couple of 
washers and a two nuts on it.  Then I cut a 5' piece of wire and 
attached one end to the tape measure and the other end to the black BNC 
terminal on the KX1.



I did not fiddle around with the 25 foot radiator.


I laid the tape measure right on the grass.


By adjusting the tape measure - now I knew exactly how much counterpoise 
was being deployed and it was infinitely adjustable - I was able to get 
1:1 SWRs on 40, 30 and 20 meters.



I found that 31 feet on the tape measure + the 5 foot connecting wire 
worked best as a single compromise counterpoise length for all three 
bands -- with this 36 foot length I got 1:1 on 40M, 1.3 on 30M and 1.2 
on 20M.



73, Stan WB2LQF







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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 antenna matching

2017-06-09 Thread stan levandowski
Rick, thanks for your input from way up there in Alaska!  The KXAT1 
manual suggested (actually "stated") 1/8 wavelength minimum 
counterpoises per band and that's where the 8 foot wire for 20M came 
from.  Also, my counterpoises have not always been on the earth; 
sometimes raised by a foot or so. 



I think I'll scrounge up some wire, some alligator clips and make up 
some "extensions" like you described and do some testing tomorrow.  I 
also like your idea about clipping it to a metal picnic table.  Today, I 
was operating from a very large (8 foot) and heavy wrought iron picnic 
table on my rear deck.  Never thought about trying that!  I've got a 
nice large central air compressor nearby also but that might introduce 
RFI.  Still, might be worth a quick clip-up to see.



Thanks, Stan WB2LQF


On Fri, Jun 09, 2017 at 07:22 PM, Frederick Dwight wrote:


Stan,
 I have used a kx 1 for thousands of QSO’s many in the field on 
40, 30, and 20 meters.  My usual field antenna is a 26 ft piece of 
wire and one or two 17 counterpoise wires.  If the counterpoise 
(radial) wires are laying directly on the ground, usually I get a very 
good match on all 3 bands.  If part or all of the counterpoise/radial 
wire is elevated, then sometimes I clip on an extension of about 8 
feet to get a better match if the SWR is higher than about 2:1 
(probably only necessary on 40 meters sometimes).  Occasionally for 40 
meter elevated counterpoise operation I have even used a single 34 ft 
counterpoise wire if I happen to have one available….not likely when 
backpacking.  I would just use your 16 or 17 ft counterpoise for 20 
meters…it might improve your 1.6:1 SWR, however I still have my 
original PA transistor and have often operated with SWR’s around 2:1 
or higher, however my goal is to try not to exceed about 2:1. Usually 
I can get SWR down somewhere between 1:1 and and perhaps 1.9:1 (just a 
guess) on 40 meters, and often about the same or even slightly better 
on 20 and 30 meters.  I always carry a 8 ft piece of wire with a big 
clip on the end.  Often clipping it to a metal picnic table, guard 
rail, chain link fence, or car body either instead of a radial, or in 
addition to one and get satisfactory performance.  If I use an 
elevated counterpoise…then I clip the 8 ft wire onto the end of my 17 
ft counterpoise for better matching on 40 and possibly 30 meters.  I 
see no reason to just use a 8 ft counterpoise or radial wire for 20, a 
16 or 17 wire should be better on all the bands. Occasionally I lay 
down two 17 ft radial wires on the ground if I have them and there is 
room.  Some of my attempts at modeling showed slightly improved 
performance.  If I have a preferred direction I often lay them down in 
roughly that quadrant.  The theory is it may slightly help in that 
direction, but more important it may eliminate a very slight null 
opposite to the desired direction.  This is my unproved theory only 
since it would be nearly impossible to measure something like a dB or 
so.
   This is usually the only antenna I carry for backpacking, 
or travel around the US or Europe.  Something like a linked dipole 
(usually set up as an inverted V) will often perform significantly 
better, however I much prefer something like the 26 ft wire….5 minutes 
to set up and lots of time to operate vs. an hour set up and less 
operating time.

Rick  KL7CW   Palmer, Alaska
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] {KX1} Antenna Matching Question

2017-06-09 Thread stan levandowski
Skip, thanks for your suggestion.  It's another option I can try.  The 
KX1 works just fine with a resonant dipole, vertical with radials, mag 
loops, doublet with the BL2, etc.  But all these other antennas require 
more effort.  



The beauty of "just wire" means I can stuff it into my pocket, load the 
KX1 up with 8 AA batteries, stick earphones in the other pocket and let 
the magic begin!



I have a KX2 for more "Serious" operating!!  The (now discontinued) KX1 
is just for pure SIMPLE FUN.



Thanks for contributing another idea I can try.


73, Stan WB2LQF





On Fri, Jun 09, 2017 at 06:15 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

I no longer have my KX1 but it got a lot of use when I did.  I had the 
40/30/20 and KXAT1 options, the 30/80 hadn't been invented when I 
bought mine and life is too short for 2.5 watts on 80 anyway.  I made 
an end-fed wire out of 23 ft [7 m] of RG-58 by:


1.  Putting a male BNC on the end

2.  Stripping the outer black covering off to within 2 in [~5 cm] of 
the BNC


3.  Pulling the center conductor [still insulated] through the shield 
braid at the BNC.  This is easily done if you push the braid down to 
loosen it and then spread it, kink the center conductor, and push it 
through.


When pulled tight without the center conductor, the braid 
[counterpoise] will become somewhat longer than the center conductor 
... maybe 5-10%.  Wire goes into tree or telescoping mast, braid lays 
out on the ground.  Tuned SWR on my 3 bands ran around 1.3:1, 20 was 
often 1:1.  The tuned SWR on 40 was a bit dependent on how I ran the 
counterpoise in relation to the antenna, but the effect was small.  I 
seemed to get better on-air results with the wire sloping from a tree 
or pole rather than nearly vertical, but that too was a small effect 
and probably subjective.  I kept this antenna rolled up on a camp 
clothesline reel in my KX1 bag.  It went with the KX1 when I sold it.


I used a Buddipole for several years in places where I didn't have to 
carry it very far [heavy], but it was touchy to set up and my 
"recipes" that worked in the pasture at home never worked at my field 
sites so set-up took 30-45 min.  I finally switched to a mag loop 
[Alexloop] on a sprinkler tripod which works super with my K2.


2:1 isn't terrible considering that you don't have any transmission 
line loss.  Space limitations in the KX1 dictate that the KXAT1 can 
have only a limited number of L-C combos [64?], your match may be in 
between two of them.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/9/17 1:55 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
When following the instruction in the KXAT1 manual and using a wire 
between 24-28 feet and a 16' counterpoise for 40 and an 8' 
counterpoise for 20, the best I can ever get is a 1.6 SWR on 20 and 
2.8 SWR on 40.


I've spent lots of time shortening and lengthening wires and writing 
down results and I can't hit the magic combination.


The manual also makes it clear on page 8 that a 1:1 SWR is NOT 
necessary for good performance.  I believe this because the little 
KX1 makes me plenty of contacts with this setup, including DX.


I suppose I could just be happy

However, it bothers me that these SWRs are the best I can do. I don't 
like seeing these high ratios on the display.   I built this KX1 but 
had Don Wilhelm build and install the 30/80 module for me.  As part 
of his service, he went over my KX1 and told me that it was up to 
spec.


So my question is:  Has any KX1 user out there figured out a wire 
length, length and number of counterpoises, etc. that gives a better 
match with the KXAT1's capabilities??


When I say I use a wire, I mean I throw it up into a tree and get it 
as vertical and possible, then I lay out the counterpoise wires and 
it all attaches directly to the KX1 with a dual binding post.  Just 
real simple!


Thanks for any words of advice and 73,
Stan WB2LQF


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[Elecraft] {KX1} Antenna Matching Question

2017-06-09 Thread stan levandowski
When following the instruction in the KXAT1 manual and using a wire 
between 24-28 feet and a 16' counterpoise for 40 and an 8' counterpoise 
for 20, the best I can ever get is a 1.6 SWR on 20 and 2.8 SWR on 40.  


I've spent lots of time shortening and lengthening wires and writing 
down results and I can't hit the magic combination.



The manual also makes it clear on page 8 that a 1:1 SWR is NOT necessary 
for good performance.  I believe this because the little KX1 makes me 
plenty of contacts with this setup, including DX.



I suppose I could just be happy


However, it bothers me that these SWRs are the best I can do. I don't 
like seeing these high ratios on the display.   I built this KX1 but had 
Don Wilhelm build and install the 30/80 module for me.  As part of his 
service, he went over my KX1 and told me that it was up to spec.



So my question is:  Has any KX1 user out there figured out a wire 
length, length and number of counterpoises, etc. that gives a better 
match with the KXAT1's capabilities??



When I say I use a wire, I mean I throw it up into a tree and get it as 
vertical and possible, then I lay out the counterpoise wires and it all 
attaches directly to the KX1 with a dual binding post.  Just real 
simple!



Thanks for any words of advice and 73,
Stan WB2LQF

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - SPAM

2017-04-27 Thread stan levandowski

AH.  My fault!  I jumped to conclusions!  My apologies to Ken


On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 03:35 PM, Buddy Brannan wrote:


Hi Stan,

Different Stan, unless he sent a separate one from the one he sent to 
the list. The Stan to which he refers is clearly a very new ham (see 
the quoted message below his).

Vy 73,

--
Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
Phone: 814-860-3194 Mobile: 814-431-0962
Email: bu...@brannan.name





On Apr 27, 2017, at 3:31 PM, stan levandowski  wrote:

I just got an insulting email from "Ken Kopp" under Rose's address - 
clearly someone has mined the elecraft list.  I know Ken and Rose. 
Ken would not close by explaining to me what "73" means in CW ;-)


It also says it was in a "response" to one of my emails. I haven't 
sent any emails about the the subject of Mormons.



There were no links to open but it was impossible for me (I'm no 
expert) to differentiate this email from any legitimate list message.



No harm done here.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) - SPAM

2017-04-27 Thread stan levandowski
I just got an insulting email from "Ken Kopp" under Rose's address - 
 clearly someone has mined the elecraft list.  I know Ken and Rose.  Ken 
would not close by explaining to me what "73" means in CW ;-)


It also says it was in a "response" to one of my emails. I haven't sent 
any emails about the the subject of Mormons.



There were no links to open but it was impossible for me (I'm no expert) 
to differentiate this email from any legitimate list message.



No harm done here.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Weighted Knob

2017-03-31 Thread stan levandowski
Doug, this was an excellent idea.  Last night I {Gorilla} glued four 
nuts into my stock KX2 knob.  I wasn't at all convinced that it was 
going to be heavy enough to work BUT IT SURE AS HECK DID!!  Thanks for 
the simple but effective solution. 

 
73, Stan WB2LQF

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 06:29 PM, Doug Millar via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,     Well, I might have done it. I like a little heavier knob on my 
radios. Ever since I had an HRO radio.     I took the KX2 knob and put 
4 nuts in each of the four bins in the back of the knob. I took some 
modeling clay and forced it in to hold the nuts and to give more 
weight. I think that is just about perfect for weight and inertia. 
Comments?    Doug jEY

 
drzarko...@yahoo.com
562 810 3989  cell/text

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) - portable radial idea?

2017-03-10 Thread stan levandowski
Hi Don and thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I already have a 67 foot 
doublet fed with window line as well as  simple wires and counterpoises 
in line with page 10 of the KXAT1 manual.  They work just fine.  No 
argument there.



But I stumbled upon this "linear loaded" vertical antenna and thought I 
might try it. It's is a 20 foot piece of 300 ohm TV line with the 
conductors twisted and soldered together at the top and taped to a 
twenty foot crappie pole.  At the bottom, for working 20 and 30 meters, 
both of the conductors are connected to the red BNC terminal on the KX1 
making the the radiator just a "fat" 20 foot wire.  For working 40 
meters the bottom conductors are separated and one goes to the red BNC 
terminal and the other just hangs loose making it a 40 foot antenna. 
 The write-up I found states, "On 40m the folded wire creates a linear 
loading effect due to the capacitive coupling between the two wires 
(note that currents are not equal and opposite so there is no 
cancellation of signal as you might initially think). This added 
capacitance allows the wire to be resonated on 40m by the internal tuner 
in  the K1, KX1 or also by the Elecraft T1." The fellow who offered this 
antenna idea said that he had been using it successfully for quite 
awhile.



Adding the BL2 is my idea because it will be part of the solution for 
making the bottom connections.  My intent is to come up with a "decent" 
portable antenna that I can erect anywhere in just one minute.  I want 
to come up with some creative way to make all the pieces work together 
effortlessly, rapidly and reliably, including dealing with the crappie 
pole.   My dream is to drop the crappie pole into a homemade holder on 
my camp chair, push up the pole with the antenna following, walk the 
roll of ribbon cable out in a straight line, go back to the chair, sit 
down, turn on the KX1 and start operating!  It's my springtime 
project



I ordered a 100 foot role of ribbon cable so I can do a little 
experimenting with opening up the ends.



On Fri, Mar 10, 2017 at 09:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Stan,

It can be made to work, but will be a real "bear" to adjust to 
resonance unless you separate the ends.


If you are feeding with 300 ohm twinlead, why not make a 66 foot long 
center fed dipole out of it.


Alternately if this is for portable work, us no feedline at all - just 
a BNC to binding post adapter at the KX1. Use 2 lengths of wire as is 
shown on page 10 of the KXAT1 manual.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/10/2017 7:14 PM, stan levandowski wrote:

I found the plans (June 2010 Elecraft Reflector) to build a 40/30/20
meter "linear loaded" portable antenna for my KX1 (using a crappie 
rod,
300 ohm twinlead for the radiator, a BL2 balun, and ribbon cable 
radials

cut to 1/4 wavelength for each of the bands (16, 25 and 33 feet).

My question is how terrible would it be to use a piece of that thin
computer ribbon cable cut to the three lengths but NOT separated? 
This

would make it easier to deploy and roll back up.

Has anyone ever tried using unseparated ribbon cable counterpoises? 
The

materials are on order and I'm sort of anxious to know.



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[Elecraft] (OT) - portable radial idea?

2017-03-10 Thread stan levandowski
I found the plans (June 2010 Elecraft Reflector) to build a 40/30/20 
meter "linear loaded" portable antenna for my KX1 (using a crappie rod, 
300 ohm twinlead for the radiator, a BL2 balun, and ribbon cable radials 
cut to 1/4 wavelength for each of the bands (16, 25 and 33 feet).


My question is how terrible would it be to use a piece of that thin 
computer ribbon cable cut to the three lengths but NOT separated?  This 
would make it easier to deploy and roll back up.



Has anyone ever tried using unseparated ribbon cable counterpoises?  The 
materials are on order and I'm sort of anxious to know.



Obviously, this is a compromise antenna and I'm shooting to design a 
package for maximum installation speed vs. maximum efficiency.



Thanks, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker

2017-02-17 Thread stan levandowski
A cylinder with a closed end is a "closed cylinder" and requires the 
formula that uses 2f instead of f.



The "real" formula accounts for lots of variables, including diameter of 
the sphere. But a ballpark formula that works just fine for less complex 
designs is just Length (in feet or fractions of a foot) equals the speed 
of sound in air (in feet per second which is approximately 1100) divided 
by either f (for an open end cylinder) or 2f (for a closed end cylinder) 
where f is the desired frequency of resonance you want.  Much like 
making a simple dipole, you can start with the formula but it takes 
trimming to get it optimized.



Example:  You want a speaker resonant at 600 Hz.  It is closed at one 
end ( the end in which you mount the speaker).  The tube is *about* two 
inches in diameter.  L=1100/2f  -- L=1100/1200  --  L=..916 ft.  -- 
 .916 inches x 12 inches = 10.9 inches.  



The preceding is not perfect but, like a dipole, it needs final 
trimming.  That's where an adjustable design (like the PVC versions with 
a sleeve) make it easier to trim vs. building a wooden box (like the 
KD1JV box design).



73, Stan WB2LQF


On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 06:07 PM, Mark Petiford via Elecraft wrote:

I think a pipe with a speaker in the end is considered a closed end 
cylinder, but I am not completely sure.  If so, resonant lengths are 
shorter.  Here is the page from one of my favorite websites if you are 
interested in experimenting with resonant speakers:


http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Waves/opecol.html#c1

Good educational website from Georgia State University.


Mark,
KE6BB


On Friday, February 17, 2017 2:14 PM, Mike Furrey  wrote:

 I have not but you certainly can do it. The length of the tube will 
determine the peak resonant frequency and you would have to experiment 
with the length to tune it to the pitch you like best to listen to. 
Remember the days you would blow across a bottle to make a tone? The 
more you drank out of the bottle the lower the pitch. I like this 
project and I am going to build one and it will be with a straight 
tube mounted on a little stand so it aims towards me.

73, Mike WA5POK

    On Friday, February 17, 2017 12:58 PM, P.J.Hicks  wrote:

 Has anyone built the resonator with a straight length of tube? 
Perhaps terminated with a 45 deg. cut? Might be an interesting 
experiment.
The 45 deg long radius street elbow in 2" is an order only item in my 
area so thought I'd substitute a straight length.
PJH, N7PXY 
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[Elecraft] (OT) CW Resonant Speaker

2017-02-16 Thread stan levandowski
For those with interest I just put up a video comparison of a standard 
"communications speaker" vs. the "CW Resonant Speaker" detailed in the 
article of the same name in the February 2017 QST, page 43.


Included for Elecraft KX product owners is the amp necessary to use the 
headphone jack output.



Click on:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htjgeHEf3-g


73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) Follow-up on CW Resonant Speaker

2017-02-13 Thread stan levandowski
Folks, I posted about having built the CW Resonant Speaker in the 
February 2017 and having problems with low audio.  This is a follow-up 
report for those with interest in this subject.


It works!  It's fabulous!  It's unbelievable how great it sounds! CW 
pops out and background noise is significantly reduced.



I built it EXACTLY as described in the article and ordered the EXACT 
parts listed.  My problem was not enough audio coming from either my KX1 
or my KX2 headphone jacks.  



I purchased a fully assembled 15 watt mono amplifier - Qianson TDA2030A 
15W Mono Channel Audio Power Amplifier Board AC/DC 12V AMP Module - 
Amazon for $11.80.



With the new amp, my speaker is acoustically resonant at 760 Hz and I 
have plenty of volume; enough to fill the room.  The author had claimed 
"around 700 Hz" so it's in the ballpark.  I can verify that the 
construction article was accurate.



I wanted 600 Hz so I built a vinyl sleeve to insert into the street 
elbow and set my sidetone pitch for 600 Hz then slid the sleeve up and 
down until I got a very obvious peak in volume.



I'm still a "can fan" for serious CW operating, but it's nice to be able 
to listen to sweet CW that pops right out now that the higher frequency 
sounds are substantially subdued.



This was a really worthwhile little project.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] (KX1) A Story for a Winter Day in NY

2017-02-09 Thread stan levandowski

On Thu, Feb 09, 2017 at 10:45 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Beautiful obit for the KX1 Stan. Ops like you will remember it like us 
O.T.s remember our 6L6 crystal controlled oscillators built on a 
breadboard. Newer rigs do as well (sometimes better) but are never the 
same.


Whoa there, Ron!  Next week is my 68th birthday.  I ain't no kid!  My 
FIRST rig was a crystal controlled 50L6 fed doubled DC by a 50Y6 using 
one half of the line cord and a cold water ground.  It was called "The 
22 Watt Monster" and it came out of a 1963 CQ Magazine.  Clearly, pre 
OSHA...



THAT is THE rig that earned me a QSL card from WA1BVN (clearly a SK by 
now) up near Boston who wrote on it, "Solid 579, Stan, you must have had 
your foot in a water bucket."



Oh, lest I forget - the antenna was my bedspring.  Remember when bed 
springs were real metal springs?  I lived in an apartment and couldn't 
have an antenna.  I'd heard about "loading a bed spring and, as a kid, I 
totally fell for it. Thank God for Pi Networks.  I ran that bed spring 
for several weeks until I discovered magnet wire.



Now THAT"S A MEMORY, Ron, right up there with my little KX1 and your 6L6 
MOPA





73, Stan, WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (KX1) A Story for a Winter Day in NY

2017-02-09 Thread stan levandowski
Just a couple of months ago, on December 7, I purchased a KX1.  It was a 
replacement to the KX1 I had built several years ago: my entry into the 
Elecraft world.  I thought I had "outgrown" it so I sold it.


Fast forward through my K1, K2, K3, KX3, and now KX2/KXPA100 setup (plus 
other stuff like the K2 amp, the KAT100, the PX3, an earlier KXPA100 for 
the KX3lots of other stuff plus the mini-modules) and we come to 
today.  Elecraft has made a small fortune on me! 



We're having a blizzard in New York.  My picnic table out back has over 
12 inches of snow on it.  As a prisoner of the house, I decided to do a 
little operating;  However, 40 meters was dead and so was 30 meters.  It 
wasn't so hot on 20 meters either.  I went down to the living room and 
built a fire.  But gosh, I really wanted to operate...



So I brought my KX1 down to the living room.  I stretched a 40 foot 
length of {high loss} RG174 from my shack to the fireplace.  I have a 67 
foot bent up doublet in my attic managed by an SGC231 autocoupler and 
that's where one end of the RG174 extension coax went.  The other end 
connected the antenna to my KX1 on AA batteries.  With less than 13.9 
VDC, the KX1 doesn't have the oomph required to kick the autocoupler 
into tune mode.  No problem.  I just used my QRO setup to find the match 
on 14.030. That would give me a few kHZ either side with a good SWR.



So there I am, sitting in front of the fireplace with a rig on batteries 
putting out maybe a watt +/-, a high loss connection to the antenna, a 
coupler with some degree of loss, a freakin' blizzard outside, a bent up 
antenna in my attic and a foot of snow on the roof and conditions on 20 
meters reportedly "Fair."



Well, guess what.  I worked a whole pile of stations - Minnesota, New 
Mexico, Florida, Hungary, Ireland, Germany and the Bahamas.  After an 
hour, I brought the rig back to the shack and promptly worked  V53DX, a 
new QRP country for me.



Thus, it was with more than a little sadness that I logged onto the 
Elecraft website and saw that the KX1 has been discontinued!  I don't 
recall seeing any email announcements about this or any chatter on this 
reflector about it either.



I certainly understand that business decisions must be made and change 
is inevitable.  In fact, I'm surprised that the K1 didn't go before the 
KX1.



I just thought I'd take the time to salute one of the greatest QRP rigs 
I've ever had the pleasure to build and operate - twice - and WOW - I'm 
happy that I gave this new KX1 to myself for Chistmas!



During the period of time between my first KX1 and this new one, I 
explored lots of other QRP rigs because I was curious.  I spent a lot of 
money too!  They were all well engineered.  They all worked. They all 
had their own uniqueness.  BUT the KX1 distinguished itself because it 
had everything one needs to operate right there onboard.  The LNR 
Mountain Toppers, for example, were about the size of a pack of 
cigarettes. However, the operator had to have an outboard key, an 
outboard power supply and an outboard antenna tuner.  That's more like a 
full carton smokes. Same for the LD-5 and LD-11.



The thing about the KX1 was its apparent simplicity which masked its 
elegant design and robust menu.  I love my KX2 with its dual watch 
function, autospot feature and filtering.  But now it's hooked up to the 
amplifier and it's no longer a candidate for "grab and go" operations. 
 The KX1 was (and IS for me) just plain FUN and all in one nice package.



Sorry to see it go west.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
I didn't know it made that much difference, Don.  My headset is a much 
higher impedance and I have plenty of audio with it.  Must be something 
I don't understand here.  Too late to change the speaker; it's all glued 
in.  I'll take the amp route.



On Mon, Feb 06, 2017 at 09:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Stan,

One of your big problems is that the speaker specified in that project 
is 8 ohms - if you can find a 4 ohm speaker, you will almost quadruple 
the available audio.


The other solution is to use an amplifier.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 2/6/2017 8:47 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack 
"padded"

to protect hearing?

I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current 
QST

and it works great but the volume is so low that  it's unusable.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
Bingo.  That makes sense.  I've already sketched out a little 386 amp I 
can build on a popsicle stick and tomorrow I'll dump my junkbox out on 
the kitchen table and go to work.  I guess I should start looking at the 
manual before I bother people!!



BTW, other than the volume problem I have, this little sucker REALLY 
makes the CW pop. And yes, it IS sharp.  If I'm not right on, my 
sidetone disappears!



73, Stan WB2LQF

On Mon, Feb 06, 2017 at 10:11 PM, Brian Hunt wrote:


Stan,
If you refer to the KX2 Block Diagram (Page 62 of my manual) you will 
see that the PH (headphone) takeoff is a low level and the 
SPKR(speaker) output has an additional amplifier associated with it. 
I think Wayne did this to minimize the current drain when using 
headphones, while providing usable speaker volume for fixed/station 
powered use.  Plugging a resonant speaker without an amplifier into 
the headphone jack will result in the low volume that you are seeing.


At least that's the way I understand the design.  If you want viable, 
fixed KX2 operation, use a follow-on amplifier with the resonant 
speaker.


73,
Brian, K0DTJ

On 2/6/2017 17:47, stan levandowski wrote:
Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack 
"padded" to protect hearing?


I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current 
QST and it works great but the volume is so low that  it's unusable.



Do I have to take the speaker output directly off the KX2's speaker 
terminals to get more volume?




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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski


Ken, "...two of the original speakers..." means you built them or Bill 
built them for you or you mean the "original" Sky-Tec?  I've tried it 
with the KX2 filter set all the way to 2.8.  Also tried it with my KX1 
and the same low volume.  



I don't understand this term "padding" but it was suggested to me in a 
post on the CW list that "most modern transceiver have headset outputs 
that are padded to protect hearing" and I thought that might have 
something to do with this low volume.



I really want to experience this phenomenal sound I've heard so much 
about!!!



73, Stan WB2LQF

On Mon, Feb 06, 2017 at 09:18 PM, Rose wrote:

In answer to a list member question ... the speaker is acoustically 
resonant and -very- narrow.  


I suspect Stan's build and his KX2's filtered output tone are too far 
apart.



I have two of the original speakers and they are phenomenal!


73


Ken - K0PP





On Feb 6, 2017 19:07, "stan levandowski" <sjl...@optonline.net 
<mailto:sjl...@optonline.net> > wrote:
No,Peter, it "acts" like a filter to focus on CW frequencies between 
approx 500 to 700 Hz while downplaying higher frequency noise.  Good 
stuff available via Google and Youtube and page 43 of current QST 


73, Stan WB2LQF





On Mon, Feb 06, 2017 at 09:01 PM, Peter Lambert wrote:




G'day,



CW resonant speaker ? - does it have a filter in it ?



If the frequency is significantly different to the KX2's filter it would 
explain the extremely low volume.




73's Peter VK4JD



-Original Message-

From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> ] On Behalf Of stan 
levandowski


Sent: Tuesday, 7 February 2017 11:48 AM

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>

Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question



Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack "padded" 
to protect hearing?




I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current QST 
and it works great but the volume is so low that  it's unusable.






Do I have to take the speaker output directly off the KX2's speaker 
terminals to get more volume?






Thanks and 73,

Stan WB2LQF





Sorry for the bum post; fat fingers!!

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
Nice speaker but unfortunately won't help me out here.  I need mono 
output for this speaker and it's only 2 inches and 8 ohms.  If I could 
get the volume from the headphone jack that I get from the KX2 speaker, 
I'd be quite satisfied.  Stan WB2LQF



On Mon, Feb 06, 2017 at 08:55 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

I use this audio amp to drive speakers from my KX3. It is 15 W per 
channel stereo, runs off 12 V, and costs under $9.


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4MT274/
wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On Feb 6, 2017, at 5:47 PM, stan levandowski  wrote:

Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack 
"padded" to protect hearing?


I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current 
QST and it works great but the volume is so low that  it's unusable.



Do I have to take the speaker output directly off the KX2's speaker 
terminals to get more volume?



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF


Sorry for the bum post; fat fingers!!
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
No,Peter, it "acts" like a filter to focus on CW frequencies between 
approx 500 to 700 Hz while downplaying higher frequency noise.  Good 
stuff available via Google and Youtube and page 43 of current QST 

73, Stan WB2LQF


On Mon, Feb 06, 2017 at 09:01 PM, Peter Lambert wrote:


G'day,

CW resonant speaker ? - does it have a filter in it ?

If the frequency is significantly different to the KX2's filter it 
would explain the extremely low volume.


73's Peter VK4JD

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
stan levandowski

Sent: Tuesday, 7 February 2017 11:48 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack "padded" 
to protect hearing?


I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current 
QST and it works great but the volume is so low that  it's unusable.



Do I have to take the speaker output directly off the KX2's speaker 
terminals to get more volume?



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF


Sorry for the bum post; fat fingers!!
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[Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack "padded" 
to protect hearing?


I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current QST 
and it works great but the volume is so low that  it's unusable.



Do I have to take the speaker output directly off the KX2's speaker 
terminals to get more volume?



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF


Sorry for the bum post; fat fingers!!
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[Elecraft] KX2 speaker/headphone question

2017-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
Hi folks.  I need some assistance.  Is the KX2's headset jack "padded" 
to protect hearing?


I'm asking because I built the "CW Resonant Speaker" in the current QST 
and it works great but the volume is s

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[Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

2017-01-14 Thread stan levandowski
Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on" 
position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?


I'm asking because the tiny slide switch seems rather fragile and using 
it perhaps several times a day is sure to eventually break it.



I noticed that when I power the W1 off with the station supply, the 
green LED slowly decays; when turning the W1 off with the slide switch, 
the same LED goes out immediately.  That suggests that the 
microprocessor is involved in shutdown.



I know that all Elecraft transceivers require an orderly shutdown via 
their onboard processors.  Does this apply to my W1 also?  Am I looking 
for trouble here??



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft-Free Straight Key Night

2017-01-12 Thread stan levandowski
Congratulations for cruising with the spoilers deployed.  73, Stan 
WB2LQF



On Thu, Jan 12, 2017 at 05:39 AM, gliderboy1955 via Elecraft wrote:

I want to publicly congratulate myself for operating SKN this year 
with only my souped up HW-16 and box-stock HG-10 VFO.  Usually I get 
frustrated with the boat anchors and go Elecraft at some point.

The dark K-line called, all right. 
"Isn't that chirp a bit embarassing?"  
"How long has it been since you had to listen to more than one CW 
signal at a time?  Not easy anymore, huh."  

"It's a tad rude to drift into another QSO, don't you think?"
"Hey, I wonder what's happening 10 KHz up?  I'd be happy to show you."
The dark K-line was always polite.  Always ready to help.  Always 
ready to cool off the shack.  Kind of Jeeves-like, but with a mixture 
of Eric and Wayne's voices.

I resisted for the first time since K3 #2545 came into my life.  
73 WD6DBM Eric


Sent on my Samsung Galaxy S® 6.
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch

2016-12-30 Thread stan levandowski
Thank you, Don. An Alpha Delta has that isolation. I thought it would be 
OK but as a hobbyist and not a pro, I don't know what I don't know. 
 Happy New Year.

Stan WB2LQF


On Fri, Dec 30, 2016 at 06:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Stan,

If your maximum power is 100 watts and the isolation of the switch is 
40dB or more then I don't think you have any problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/30/2016 5:49 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm 
not

sure if it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential
equipment damage.

I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert
opinion, so here's my question:


I want to buy a two position coaxial switch.  I want to connect ONE
antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100 
watts)

and a KX1 (about 3 watts).  The coax cable coming from this switch to
the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going from this
switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed the dB 
loss

and I can live with).


Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?


Thanks,
Stan WB2LQF



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[Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch

2016-12-30 Thread stan levandowski
I would like to use a coaxial switch for an unintended use and I'm not 
sure if it's a good idea in terms of RF isolation and potential 
equipment damage.


I'm no expert in this area but I know this list is a wealth of expert 
opinion, so here's my question:



I want to buy a two position coaxial switch.  I want to connect ONE 
antenna to it and switch this antenna between a KX2/KXPA100 (100 watts) 
and a KX1 (about 3 watts).  The coax cable coming from this switch to 
the KX2 is a short piece of RG8X and the coax cable going from this 
switch to the KX1 is 25' of RG-174 (yes, I already computed the dB loss 
and I can live with). 



Am I likely to cause any damage to to either piece of equipment?


Thanks,
Stan WB2LQF



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Re: [Elecraft] (KX1) - Question of Power Modification Timing

2016-12-18 Thread stan levandowski
Don thank you for this rapid and complete answer.  I'm printing this 
email out to include with the KX1 documentation. I'll always be using 
either the internal AA cells or a dedicated 12VDC wall wart so I think 
I'll just install the mod now and avoid de-soldering.   


73 and Seasons' greetings,
Stan WB2LQF


On Sun, Dec 18, 2016 at 06:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Stan,

The information in the Power Mod instructions is correct.  SOME KX1s 
have lower power output than others due to component tolerances.  Ni 
some cases, this becomes more of a problem with the KXB3080 
installation.  I would not arbitrarily install those resistors.


Install the KXB3080 option and then test all bands using a 13.8 volt 
power source.  If you can achieve 3.5 watts on all bands, that is all 
the design point offers.  If one or two bands are lower, first try 
adjusting the spacing of the green turns on L1 and L2 to see if you 
can even out the power.


If you cannot achieve 3.5 watts on any band, then install the power 
mod.


I must add that the heatsinking of the KX1 and the rating of the zener 
diode in the PA stage are not designed for more than 5 watts.  If you 
are getting more than 5 watts on any band, turn R1 to a lower level to 
limit the power to 5 watts.


If you will always be operating on a voltage less than 13.8 volts 
(battery operation), you may want to install the power mod anyway.

The actual power output will depend on the power supply voltage.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/18/2016 6:12 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
I'm building my second fully optioned KX1.  I built one a few years 
ago

with no problem and it was great. I sold it when I bought a KX3.   I
missed it so much I just bought myself another one.

But I could use some advice because something doesn't make sense to 
me.



I opened the 30/80 meter parts package and found a "Power Output
Modification Kit" for the KX1.  It consists of two resistors:
replacements for R11 and R30.


I have not yet installed the "original R11 and R30" so can I just
install these power mod resistors NOW to avoid future de-soldering?


This sounds like a dumb question, I know, but it seems that if this 
has

been a known problem for the KX1 since April 2006 (Revision B), why
weren't the kit resistors upgraded a long time ago, or made an 
addendum

to the KX1.


Why were they in the 30/80 module kit?  What's the connection? Do the
upgrade resistors only apply to the 30/80 mod?


If I had not ordered the 30/80 mod, I would not have known about this
power mod.


73, Stan WB2LQF






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[Elecraft] (KX1) - Question of Power Modification Timing

2016-12-18 Thread stan levandowski
I'm building my second fully optioned KX1.  I built one a few years ago 
with no problem and it was great. I sold it when I bought a KX3.   I 
missed it so much I just bought myself another one. 


But I could use some advice because something doesn't make sense to me.


I opened the 30/80 meter parts package and found a "Power Output 
Modification Kit" for the KX1.  It consists of two resistors: 
replacements for R11 and R30.



I have not yet installed the "original R11 and R30" so can I just 
install these power mod resistors NOW to avoid future de-soldering?



This sounds like a dumb question, I know, but it seems that if this has 
been a known problem for the KX1 since April 2006 (Revision B), why 
weren't the kit resistors upgraded a long time ago, or made an addendum 
to the KX1.



Why were they in the 30/80 module kit?  What's the connection? Do the 
upgrade resistors only apply to the 30/80 mod?  



If I had not ordered the 30/80 mod, I would not have known about this 
power mod.



73, Stan WB2LQF






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[Elecraft] (KX2) Tuning Knob

2016-12-02 Thread stan levandowski
Answered my own question: 
  http://www.gemsproducts.com/product/kx2-vfo-a-knob-beta/


73, Stan WB2LQF



Oops!  Let's try this again...

Has anyone on this list either developed or discovered a method to put a 
finger dimple on the KX2 VFO knob?



Elecraft used to sell a finger dimple for the K2 but no longer stocks 
it.



A Google search found no hits for a finger dimple.


The KX2 is now my main rig and, together with the KXPA100, it's a fine 
setup for my kind of operating but the trying to spin the knob is 
aggravating.



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (KX2) Tuning Knob

2016-12-02 Thread stan levandowski

Oops!  Let's try this again...

Has anyone on this list either developed or discovered a method to put a 
finger dimple on the KX2 VFO knob?



Elecraft used to sell a finger dimple for the K2 but no longer stocks 
it.



A Google search found no hits for a finger dimple.


The KX2 is now my main rig and, together with the KXPA100, it's a fine 
setup for my kind of operating but the trying to spin the knob is 
aggravating.



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (KX2) Tuning Knob

2016-12-02 Thread stan levandowski

Has anyone on this list either developed or discovered
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Re: [Elecraft] Weird startup

2016-11-29 Thread stan levandowski
I upgraded yesterday and my "weird" situation appears to be resolved. 
 Probably a good practice to regularly upgrade to the latest level.I 
should have trusted Elecraft more!   



I certainly will from now on.


Thanks Wayne and Eric and 73,
Stan WB2LQF


On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 09:30 AM, Paul Smith wrote:

I am not sure what my KX2 has been doing but it seemed "deaf at times" 
I have operated nothing but the simplest kit built rigs for 15 years 
so the KX2 has a bunch of stuff Im not sure of yet.


I just this morning upgraded the software to the latest version. It 
seems to hear really well I worked a guy in TX and he was gangbusters 
at 5 watts. Thanks Wayne and Eric for a great radio and easy fixes.


de Paul N0NBD


Sent from Outlook
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Re: [Elecraft] (KX2) - Randomly Powers Up "Weird"

2016-11-28 Thread stan levandowski
AhhhI shall gather up my courage and press onward with my first KX2 
update.Thanks and 73,Stan WB2LQF



On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 07:17 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:


Hi Stan,

I would use the latest "one-click" production firmware release (MCU 
2.69/DSP 1.49). This corrects a DSP problem that in rare cases could 
result in the DSP not sampling signals correctly.


73,
Wayne
N6KR




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf 
Of stan levandowski

Sent: Monday, November 28, 2016 4:08 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] (KX2) - Randomly Powers Up "Weird"

For the last couple of months my KX2 randomly comes up acting like 
it has a very tight filter engaged although all screen indications 
are normal. In plain language it sounds "hollow" as if it were at 50 
Hz. Yet all screen indications are normal (for example, it shows 400 
Hz from its last use). There are no error messages.


This is very random; not a regular event.  When it does occur, all I 
have to do is turn the power off and then immediately back on and 
all is well.


My KX2 is connected to an SEC1235M power supply and is also 
connected to the KXPA100 amplifier.  It's always in CW mode because 
that's all I use.  This "weird" power up situation occurs even if 
the KXPA100 is physically disconnected.



The KX2 otherwise works normally in all regards.  My firmware is at 
2.61, DSP at 1.46 and PA at 1.32.  These are "as shipped" by 
Elecraft at purchase time.  My serial number is 0472.



Just wondering if this little issue has visited anyone else.


73, Stan WB2LQF






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Re: [Elecraft] (KX2) - Randomly Powers Up "Weird"

2016-11-28 Thread stan levandowski
Thanks, Bill.  The KX2 doesn't actually have a "sub" receiver; if you 
mean dual watch then no, it's rarely engaged unless I'm working split 
DX. It's not a VFO A/B issue either.  I guess I should update my 
firmwareI only work CW and my needs are simple so I've refrained 
from updating so far. The little rig and its amp work so well.I'm 
always afraid of screwing something up!!

73, Stan WB2LQF


On Mon, Nov 28, 2016 at 05:25 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:


Stan,
I would try MCU 02.68 and DSP of 01.48 and see if that helps.  If you 
have the unit on SUB receiver you may be looking at two different 
settings for each VFO and the spread between VFO A and B can be 
confusing.  I use SSB and leave the SUB on.  When there are two close 
signals I have to check both VFO's for same settings.  Filters can be 
different, etc., from what I have witnessed.


73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
stan levandowski

Sent: Monday, November 28, 2016 4:08 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] (KX2) - Randomly Powers Up "Weird"

For the last couple of months my KX2 randomly comes up acting like it 
has a very tight filter engaged although all screen indications are 
normal. In plain language it sounds "hollow" as if it were at 50 Hz. 
Yet all screen indications are normal (for example, it shows 400 Hz 
from its last use). There are no error messages.


This is very random; not a regular event.  When it does occur, all I 
have to do is turn the power off and then immediately back on and all 
is well.


My KX2 is connected to an SEC1235M power supply and is also connected 
to the KXPA100 amplifier.  It's always in CW mode because that's all I 
use.  This "weird" power up situation occurs even if the KXPA100 is 
physically disconnected.



The KX2 otherwise works normally in all regards.  My firmware is at 
2.61, DSP at 1.46 and PA at 1.32.  These are "as shipped" by Elecraft 
at purchase time.  My serial number is 0472.



Just wondering if this little issue has visited anyone else.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (KX2) - Randomly Powers Up "Weird"

2016-11-28 Thread stan levandowski
For the last couple of months my KX2 randomly comes up acting like it 
has a very tight filter engaged although all screen indications are 
normal. In plain language it sounds "hollow" as if it were at 50 Hz. 
 Yet all screen indications are normal (for example, it shows 400 Hz 
from its last use). There are no error messages.


This is very random; not a regular event.  When it does occur, all I 
have to do is turn the power off and then immediately back on and all is 
well.


My KX2 is connected to an SEC1235M power supply and is also connected to 
the KXPA100 amplifier.  It's always in CW mode because that's all I use. 
 This "weird" power up situation occurs even if the KXPA100 is 
physically disconnected.



The KX2 otherwise works normally in all regards.  My firmware is at 
2.61, DSP at 1.46 and PA at 1.32.  These are "as shipped" by Elecraft at 
purchase time.  My serial number is 0472.



Just wondering if this little issue has visited anyone else.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop Antenna Question

2016-11-13 Thread stan levandowski
Yeah, if I remember my experience, it was rather "mono frequency" for a 
few kHz.  Then I had to adjust the coupling for better SWR. It wasn't 
all that user-friendly!  However, it was a great and cheap way to play 
with a mag loop.  I remember sitting on my front porch with a K1 and 
working DX with it.  The loop was just tie-wrapped to a broomstick stuck 
into a patio umbrella stand and sitting on my driveway. It was enough to 
get me interested in reading and experimenting so it accomplished the 
authors' objective.  



73, Stan WB2LQF

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 01:57 PM, w7aqk wrote:


Stan,

Well, my first question was "how about the capacitor?".  I looked at 
the article, and it says no capacitor needed, but that it is mono band 
only.  I would have to guess that it is "mono-frequency" as well, or 
just about!!!


Dave W7AQK



-----Original Message- From: stan levandowski
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2016 7:01 AM
To: w7aqk
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop Antenna Question

My first loop was because of an article I read online that said, "Look
no further!  Here is all you need: 10 feet 3 inches of 3/4-inch hard
line, 2 hose clamps, a chassis connector, a little bit of house wire,
and you could be in business as shown in the photo below"


The darn thing worked incredibly well!  It was for 40 meters. Here's 
the

"starter article" at http://www.antennex.com/hws/ws0902/hardline.html


This inspired me to build a square loop made of two inch copper pipe
with a vacuum variable and a 1 rpm 12VDC motor which I switched by
reversing polarity.  It was for 20 meters and worked great with QRP.


I finally bought an Alexloop for true portable work.


73, Stan WB2LQF

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 04:41 AM, w7aqk wrote:


Terry,

If you have the inclination at all, why not build one!  It's really 
not all that hard to do.  Quite a few years ago I did that, and the 
thing worked pretty well.  I got the info from a QST article from 
back in the 90's.  The hardest part might be finding a proper 
capacitor for tuning, but if your junk box has much in it, you may 
have that problem solved.  I complicated things a bit by adding a 
small low voltage motor to turn the capacitor.  You need to use one 
that has a very low rpm rate for that, but they are available.  Not 
counting the motor, the whole thing cost lest than $10 to build.  I 
used copper tubing, but you could use coax shield. I recommend copper 
tubing.


Even though band conditions are rather poor these days, you can still 
do good things with a mag loop--especially on 20 meters.  You may not 
be able to run that amp through it, unless you get a pretty husky 
capacitor, but 15 watts is not usually a problem.  You just might be 
surprised at what you can do with one of these things.  They are fun 
to play with.


73,

Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop Antenna Question

2016-11-13 Thread stan levandowski
My first loop was because of an article I read online that said, "Look 
no further!  Here is all you need: 10 feet 3 inches of 3/4-inch hard 
line, 2 hose clamps, a chassis connector, a little bit of house wire, 
and you could be in business as shown in the photo below"



The darn thing worked incredibly well!  It was for 40 meters. Here's the 
"starter article" at http://www.antennex.com/hws/ws0902/hardline.html



This inspired me to build a square loop made of two inch copper pipe 
with a vacuum variable and a 1 rpm 12VDC motor which I switched by 
reversing polarity.  It was for 20 meters and worked great with QRP.



I finally bought an Alexloop for true portable work. 


73, Stan WB2LQF

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 04:41 AM, w7aqk wrote:


Terry,

If you have the inclination at all, why not build one!  It's really 
not all that hard to do.  Quite a few years ago I did that, and the 
thing worked pretty well.  I got the info from a QST article from back 
in the 90's.  The hardest part might be finding a proper capacitor for 
tuning, but if your junk box has much in it, you may have that problem 
solved.  I complicated things a bit by adding a small low voltage 
motor to turn the capacitor.  You need to use one that has a very low 
rpm rate for that, but they are available.  Not counting the motor, 
the whole thing cost lest than $10 to build.  I used copper tubing, 
but you could use coax shield.  I recommend copper tubing.


Even though band conditions are rather poor these days, you can still 
do good things with a mag loop--especially on 20 meters.  You may not 
be able to run that amp through it, unless you get a pretty husky 
capacitor, but 15 watts is not usually a problem.  You just might be 
surprised at what you can do with one of these things.  They are fun 
to play with.


73,

Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Some "No Code" background

2016-08-01 Thread stan levandowski
I'm very happy with Amateur Radio (or "ham radio" for those who prefer). 
 It might not be perfect, whatever that measure might be,  but it 
affords me the opportunity to participate in the world's greatest hobby 
in the manner I so choose.



Had our hobby not grown as it did, I wonder if Elecraft would have ever 
achieved the size, excellence and reputation is enjoys today?  Reading 
QST is sometimes beyond my ability to comprehend.  I'm no rocket 
scientist.  



Why should ham radio be "a place for those who have proven that they 
have the necessary skills to continue to practice  those "ancient" and 
no longer commercially viable skills"?  There are no commercially 
produced regenerative receivers and most modern transmitter don't have 
any tubes.



As far as Morse code is concerned, it's the only mode I choose to use - 
100%.  I also limit myself to HF and to QRP.  Those are my choices.



Similarly, there are many others who prefer to focus on just digital, or 
just VHF, or just.you name it.



This hobby has room for real rocket scientists as well as slowpokes like 
me.


On Mon, Aug 01, 2016 at 06:51 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:



Given that amateur radio in the US is now completely "no code" - there
is no need to become proficient even for an Amateur Extra class 
license
- the early "no code" steps were a Faustian bargain just as the 
fiction

of "semi-automatic control" for digital operations was a Faustian
bargain.

As much as it pains me to say, we would arguably be better off with
fewer licensees and maintaining a reasonable standard for entry. 
There
is no credible evidence that amateurs can continue to advance the 
state

of the art and evidence to the contrary that the current license base
represents a trained pool of operators.  The quality of operators and
the behavior heard on the air today is abhorrent when judged by the
standards of 15 years ago.

Perhaps it is time to review the basis and purpose behind amateur 
radio

and move to a "national park" model.  That is a place for those who
have proven that they have the necessary skills to continue to 
practice

those "ancient" and no longer commercially viable skills.  Consider it
the "primitive" areas of the National Parks

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

On 8/1/2016 5:18 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
I got one of the 1st Novice licenses issued ... in September, 1951. 
Took

the exam in Oklahoma City, where the FCC came only once per year.  My
"Elmer" was a retired Navy CW op and I was taught well.  Long ago I 
was a

commercial shipboard RO on a NOAA vessel.

I'm one of the six people who created the "no code" license.  In what 
I
consider one of the greatest honors in my Amateur Radio ... I 
-detest- the
name "ham" ... career the ARRL appointed me as one of the six members 
of
their No Code Study Committee.  BTW, each of us were / are die-hard 
CW

operators.

We we --told-- by the FCC that we would be getting some form of 
codeless
licensing and we should come up with something that most could live 
with.

Lots of "details" were covered over a year and a half of meetings,
conference calls, etc.

I still have a large box of pro and con correspondence in the attic. 
The

number of letters is about equally divided.

An example of the results ... yesterday I had a KE0 proudly tell me 
he'd
just passed his "expert" license, and, his radio emitted a multi-tone 
CB

"roger beep" each time he unkeyed his microphone.

Without the "no code" license we most likely wouldn't have Amateur 
Radio
with the record 750K licenses we have today, and there's political 
"safety

in numbers".

Please, let's not start a thread on the subject.  I just thought some
"first person" input would be of interest.

73

Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Propagation

2016-07-25 Thread stan levandowski
Ah, yes Ron -- Paper QSLs!  On my QRZ page it says "No LoTW, no eQSL and 
no Buro."  I still revere old fashioned QSL cards, with handwritten 
notes and some evidence that our QSO was something more than just "599 
TU".  Try showing your grandchildren a printout of your LoTW contacts 
and see how many oohs and aahs you get ;-)



73, Stan WB2LQF


On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 01:04 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

I don't "chase DX" but over the years have had a number of great, 
albeit short CW rag chews with various DX stations on a dead band. 
Usually the DX responds to my CQ, noting that they were surprised to 
hear me because the band seemed dead. So we chat for a few minutes. 
Unfortunately (depending upon your point of view) the various spotters 
would notice us, alert the 'net and soon there would be tuners on top 
of us so we'd QRT. As one DX station noted, "Sigh, here we go 
again..." and sure 'nuf pandemonium would erupt on the frequency with 
the DX station sending "UP 2  UP 2   UP 2..." while I set down my 
'phones, refreshed my cup of tea and wrote him a thank you note on an 
old-fashioned paper QSL card.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
stan levandowski

Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2016 7:54 PM
To: k6...@foothill.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Propagation

Well, science provides predictions and suggests outcomes but I'm still 
a hopeless romantic who tunes the bands in spite of the numbers. 
Tonight I found a completely dead 20M band at 0220Z except for a 
single CW QSO in progress between WB6UIA (QRZ says Wyoming) and XE2HOE 
in Baja California (La Paz).  When they were finished, I gave XE2HOE a 
call and got a 579.  He was a steady S9 and the guy in Wyoming was S6.



I live in NY, my antenna is a 67' doublet in my attic and my rig is a
KX2 and it was running at 5 watts (I'm 100% CW and QRP).

Afterward, I tuned the band again but heard nothing.  Guess everyone 
read the prop stats and turned off their radios



73, Stan WB2LQF




On Sun, Jul 24, 2016 at 09:35 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

There have been a string of M-class flares for the last 30 hours or 
so. Initial ones were in the M.8-M.9 range, recent ones somewhat 
smaller.  A was 8, Kp was 3 earlier this afternoon which wouldn't 
normally suggest terrible conditions, but I guess if the ionization 
is already very weak, any disturbance can have a large effect.


73,

Fred K6DGW> - Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 7/24/2016 6:28 PM, Kurt Cramer wrote:

Today was the most difficult Elacraft SSB net I have ever seen. Two
nets were running at the same time.. One on the East coast, the 
other
on the west coast! They couldn’t hear each other. About half past 
the
hour I started hearing Eric in Chicago here in Arizona. I guess 
there

were a couple of solar flares.

73 Kurt W7QHD

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Re: [Elecraft] Propagation

2016-07-24 Thread stan levandowski
Well, science provides predictions and suggests outcomes but I'm still a 
hopeless romantic who tunes the bands in spite of the numbers.  Tonight 
I found a completely dead 20M band at 0220Z except for a single CW QSO 
in progress between WB6UIA (QRZ says Wyoming) and XE2HOE in Baja 
California (La Paz).  When they were finished, I gave XE2HOE a call and 
got a 579.  He was a steady S9 and the guy in Wyoming was S6.



I live in NY, my antenna is a 67' doublet in my attic and my rig is a 
KX2 and it was running at 5 watts (I'm 100% CW and QRP). 



Afterward, I tuned the band again but heard nothing.  Guess everyone 
read the prop stats and turned off their radios



73, Stan WB2LQF




On Sun, Jul 24, 2016 at 09:35 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

There have been a string of M-class flares for the last 30 hours or 
so. Initial ones were in the M.8-M.9 range, recent ones somewhat 
smaller.  A was 8, Kp was 3 earlier this afternoon which wouldn't 
normally suggest terrible conditions, but I guess if the ionization is 
already very weak, any disturbance can have a large effect.


73,

Fred K6DGW> - Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 7/24/2016 6:28 PM, Kurt Cramer wrote:

Today was the most difficult Elacraft SSB net I have ever seen. Two
nets were running at the same time.. One on the East coast, the other
on the west coast! They couldn’t hear each other. About half past the
hour I started hearing Eric in Chicago here in Arizona. I guess there
were a couple of solar flares.

73 Kurt W7QHD

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[Elecraft] {OT} Message for Alex Grimsberg PY1AHD

2016-07-13 Thread stan levandowski
Alex, I've sent you three more emails from sjl...@optonline.net and 
apparently none of them have reached you.  I know of no technical 
problems on my end.  


Apparently you can email successfully to me but my messages don't reach 
you.



Please check your mail handler and advise.


Thank you,
Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna

2016-07-12 Thread stan levandowski
I would like to correspond with anyone who has experience using the 
Alexloop antenna with 1-2 watts.


Normally, I use either an end fed antenna and a T1, a resonant linked 
dipole, or a resonant Par HF Omni-Angle (for 20 and 17 meters).  They 
all work quite well for their intended use but require some effort to 
erect.



I have been reading about the Alexloop Walkham for at least the last two 
years.  It would present some distinct advantages to me and the reviews 
seem to be overwhelmingly positive.



My concern is that while I have a KX2 for my home station, I only take 
my LNR five band Mountain Topper out on my portable jaunts.  On a 9 volt 
transistor battery, I get a bit over 1 watt; on 12 volts I get 2.5 
watts.



My specific interest is in finding out as much as I can about how this 
small Alexloop performs at such low power levels since its efficiency is 
reported to be about 7% on 40 meters, rising to about 25% on 20 meters.



An email to Alex has gone unanswered for the last two days.


Thanks and 73 from Stan WB2LQF 



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[Elecraft] {OT} Interesting Band Condx Website

2016-07-06 Thread stan levandowski
This website just came to my attention.  Perhaps it might be of interest 
to others.  


http://www.bandconditions.com/


Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) Prodigal Son Returns

2016-06-12 Thread stan levandowski
As a long time Elecraft builder and owner (K1, K2, K3, KX1, KX3, 
KXPA100, KPA100, KAT2, PX3, T1 and many options and mini-modules), I 
decided to "...take a walk on the wild side" about a year ago.  I sold 
most of my gear and bought an LNR LD-5, then an LD-11 and also a 
Mountain Topper MTR3B.  I was looking for a "fresh start" and "something 
new."  I blame retirement for this...


They were all good products; I have nothing negative to say at all.  I 
certainly got my money's worth.  And yes, the LD-11 receiver IS 
phenomenally quiet!



But it simply wasn't Elecraft!  I missed the Reflector where the company 
owners are active.  I missed the ease of ordering and the rapid 
shipment.  I missed the richness of the product inventory.  Most of all, 
I felt a little twinge every time I'd make a contact and the other guy 
was running a K something or other!



So, a little over a week ago, I listed my stuff for sale and ordered a 
KX2.  It should be here in a couple of weeks. 



I'm very happy to once again be a member of the Elecraft Family. 


73, 
Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping of KX2's

2016-06-07 Thread stan levandowski
I ordered a KX2 on June 5 and received today, from Madelyn, an email 
that Elecraft received my order, my Paypal transaction went through and 
that current shipping is running 2 to 3 weeks from date of order.



73, Stan WB2LQF



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[Elecraft] KX3 connection to doublet question

2015-04-20 Thread stan levandowski
For several years, I've been using my multiband non-resonant 94' 
doublet, fed with a short run of 450 ohm window line, to a remotely 
mounted SG234 autocoupler and then a 25 foot run of 50 ohm coax to my 
KX3.


Has been working with perfection; no complaints, except I cannot operate 
QRP below 3 watts because that's the minimum RF required for the 
autocoupler.



Now, if I wanted to extend my 450 ohm line and connect it directly to 
the KX3 and use the KX3's internal tuner, would there be any benefit in 
a 1:1 isolation balun at the KX3?



I can't think of any reason this would be necessary except as a 
transition from the window line to a convenient coax output to the KX3.



What would the KX3 prefer??


Thanks,
 Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] New Product to help many K3/KX3 users

2015-03-16 Thread stan levandowski
Very similar to the Elevator Separation Annunciator System I installed 
in my homebuilt aircraft.



If my elevator ever broke off in flight, a red light would blink wildly, 
an upswept alarm would sound and a recording of the Lord's Prayer would 
begin to play.



73, Stan WB2LQF  


On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 08:24 PM, James kvochick wrote:



https://factualradio.wordpress.com/2015/03/16/geen-idee-engineering-companion-radio-assistant-peripheral/
Now we’re getting some place!


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Re: [Elecraft] list

2015-03-15 Thread stan levandowski
Those of us with KX3s are having so much fun operating that we don't 
have time for emails.

73, Stan WB2LQF

On Sun, Mar 15, 2015 at 05:53 PM, bs usb wrote:


I see a lot of traffic about the K3 and very little regarding the KX3.

I am wondering why that is.

Is the KX3 just that much more problem free or is the K3 that much 
more popular?


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Re: [Elecraft] CW for those with Poor Hearing

2015-02-05 Thread stan levandowski
My hearing sensitivity in my right ear is much lower than in my left ear 
and, in addition, I have a constant ringing (Tinnitus) which I've become 
accustomed to so it's less bothersome than it sounds.  I find lower 
tones markedly more comfortable. I only operate 100% CW and I always use 
headphones.  I've tried many different brands,including some of those 
modern earbud thingys the young folks jam into their ears but that's 
about the most annoying thing I've ever experienced.


For years now,I've been using the David Clark model 10-S-DC listen only 
stereo headset.  These are aviation-grade but non-TSOd and are meant for 
passengers who want to listen to their personal electronics as well as 
connect into the aircraft intercom system.  These have excellent clarity 
and independent volume controls which complements DXing with my KX3's 
Dual Watch function.  The clamping pressure is LESS than the standard 
aviation grade DCs but enough to work just great as a passive noise 
reduction feature.  The sensitivity (loudness) of this consumer 
model  clearly exceeds my original aviation DCs. 



So that's how I've solved my problem and I don't even think about it 
anymore as I operate.    



73, Stan WB2LQF


On Thu, Feb 05, 2015 at 06:55 PM, Bob Gibson via Elecraft wrote:


Same way here.. I wear headphones!    73s Bob W5RG

  From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft  To: Elecraft Reflector   Sent: 
Thursday, February 5, 2015 5:42 PM

 Subject: [Elecraft] CW for those with Poor Hearing
   While in the Navy I damaged my hearing from exposure to loud noises 
(Naval Aircraft)Since then I've always had a real struggle copying CW 
(but I'm stubborn and keep trying)


I was playing around with the pitch and found that the higher 
frequency toneshave a ringing to them but as I went lower in pitch the 
ringing faded quite a bit.
So I'm basically looking for tips to help me to be able to copy 
better.

Thank you




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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 play nice with an LDG AT 100 PROII?

2014-12-11 Thread stan levandowski
Steve, I did not buy the internal tuner either.  Instead I use an 
SGC-237 remote autocoupler with my KXPA100 and there are no problems at 
all.  The only thing I have to remember is to initially turn the power 
knob on the KX3 down to under 20 watts when I go to a new band until the 
initial match is resolved.  Then I can jack it up.  I believe the 
internal tuner would be smart enough to reduce tune power automatically 
but with an outboard setup you have to do it yourself.  

73, Stan WB2LQF


On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 03:11 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:

Can't afford to get the tuner and the amp so thinking of just getting 
the amp for now. Do you think there would be a major diff using an 
outboard tuner like the LDG?


Steve, W1SFR



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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 question

2014-12-10 Thread stan levandowski
Sounds like I've finally arrived  --  I could never afford an S Line 
and I can't justify a K line but at least I'll have a KX3 Line.  Now 
I'd just like to see it stated in a print ad in QST and I'll die a happy 
ham!



73, Stan WB2LQF


On Wed, Dec 10, 2014 at 11:46 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:


The entire premise behind the KX-Line 

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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Question

2014-12-10 Thread stan levandowski


 Side-by-side works best for me.  Today I installed all right angle 
connectors.  I was going to build a nice long ramp (I'm handy and I'm 
not too bad at wood working) but instead I decided to order two more 
ready-made ramps from Steve W1SFR at http://kx3helper.com/ 
http://kx3helper.com/

 
I already have one for my CW Machine and I couldn't ask for more!  My 
intent is to line all three of them up, catty corner on my operating 
desk and at a 45 degree angle to me, with my laptop mill right in the 
center and my sideswiper, bug, straight key and paddle (ugh...) on my 
right and in that order ;-).  I may secure the ramps to each other or  
may leave them standalone for more flexibility.

 
Each one of these ramps weighs about one ounce and is darn near 
immovable when pushing buttons.  In my opinion an elegant solution at a 
very modest cost.  What I like about Steve's solution is that I don't 
have to depend upon the KX3's legs to hold it on the Nifty stand + I can 
still operate it with my Adventure paddle attached to the front.  He has 
two models, one that permits KXPD3/Adventure paddle use and one that 
does not.

 
73, Stan WB2LQF
KX3 Line
 
 
 
 
On Wed, Dec 10, 2014 at 03:40 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote:
 
 
As others have said, the IQ connecting cable is very short. Although you 
can place the PX3 to the left of the KX3, it ends up as quite a long 
pair, especially if any of your KX3 connectors are straight instead of 
right-angle. I've found it both neater and more ergonomic to place the 
PX3 just above the KX3. I use a wire-frame reading stand to hold the KX3 
and it's just tall enough to let me balance the PX3 on top of the KX3. 
However, it's not as secure as I'd like and involves metal-to-metal 
contact between the two boxes so I intend to buy or build a slightly 
larger stand, perhaps with a mini-shelf between the two boxes. The 
advantage of vertical adjacency instead of horizontal, to my thinking, 
is a smaller footprint on the desk and less eye motion between the PX3 
and the KX3 displays.


73,


/Rick N6XI


On Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 3:20 PM, stan levandowski sjl...@optonline.net 
mailto:sjl...@optonline.net  wrote:
I'm just a click away from ordering a PX3, and I've perused the FAQs and 
online manual but still have a question that some PX3 owner on this list 
should be able to answer for me:






How far away from (and to the left of) the KX3 can I place the PX3?





I didn't see any cable lengths given, just a warning not to make the 
connecting cables longer.  I  need this information to figure out how 
wide I can build my new ramp to hold them. While most of the 
connectors on the KX3 are space saving right angles, I still have 
straight connectors on my headset and outboard keyer and I don't want to 
change them ( I have my reasons...)






Thanks and 73,

Stan WB2LQF

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Truckee, CA




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[Elecraft] PX3 Question

2014-12-09 Thread stan levandowski
I'm just a click away from ordering a PX3, and I've perused the FAQs and 
online manual but still have a question that some PX3 owner on this list 
should be able to answer for me:



How far away from (and to the left of) the KX3 can I place the PX3?


I didn't see any cable lengths given, just a warning not to make the 
connecting cables longer.  I  need this information to figure out how 
wide I can build my new ramp to hold them. While most of the 
connectors on the KX3 are space saving right angles, I still have 
straight connectors on my headset and outboard keyer and I don't want to 
change them ( I have my reasons...)



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Question

2014-12-09 Thread stan levandowski

Thank you Bruce (and also thank you David Ahrendts, KC0XT)
This is what I needed.  Looks like everything is going to work out just 
fine!
Now  I can switch to the other window and press enter on the order 
page ;-)

73 and thanks again,
Stan WB2LQF


On Tue, Dec 09, 2014 at 06:32 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:


Hi, Stan
I'm not sure how you want this measured, so here's a couple of 
measurements

for you...
Using the PX3CBL cable kit that comes with the PX3, the maximum 
separation
between the two units is about 8 inches.(from the right of the PX3 to 
the

left of the KX3)
Measured from the outside edges (that is, with the PX3 on the left of 
the
KX3), the maximum distance between the left edge of the PX3 and the 
right

edge of the KX3 is 21.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you would like different dimensions
measured.
GL es 73,
Bruce N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] Ultimate System

2014-12-07 Thread stan levandowski
In January 2014 I took a look at my station - all that equipment, all 
those keys, all those cables -- lots of physical stuff between me and 
the ham radio I used to enjoy and almost as much software. All I really 
needed was my KX3, a wire antenna, pencil and paper and a bug or Cootie.



So I put my CW Machine in a freezer bag and stuck it up on a shelf.  I 
bought an ARRL paper log book and a fancy-schmantzy .5 mm lead pencil.   
I divorced myself from LoTW and eQSL and noted QSL via Mail Only on 
QRZ. Then I downloaded my HRD log and scratched HRD from my computer. 
 Finally I moved the computer out of the shack.  I was Looking for an 
Echo of my youth in the 60s; a simpler time.  I was going to hand log 
all my contacts, exchange real QSL cards, only use my bug and 'swiper 
and turn my back on all the technology and interfaces that I held 
responsible for my discontent.



Well, that lasted nine months.  It was the biggest mistake I've ever 
made in ham radio.



Thankfully, the CW Machine's non-volatile memory still contained my old 
log records and ARRL's LoTW Help Desk helped me get back into the fold. 
 The computer is back in the shack and I'm now reconnected with the 
technology aids that really do add so much value and facility.



The only good that came from this experience was the ultimate 
realization that it's not 1960 and I can't go home anymore.  I'm stuck 
in the 21st Century whether I like it or not.



73,
Stan WB2LQF












On Sun, Dec 07, 2014 at 06:01 PM, Orville wrote:

Or possibly consider the method I use which does more than any other 
product

currently available on the market, including contest serial number
generation, ultimatic keying, bug emulation, self-contained log book, 
rtty
function, call sign lookups to QRZ, automatic ADIF generation and 
updates to
eQSL and LoTW, and much more, All this is through the wonder of my Nr. 
2

pencil and a Big Chief tablet in conjunction with my PC and K3.

(This system does not require any software updates to my K-line which
currently exceeds all my needs and expectations.)


73,

K5VWW




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Re: [Elecraft] GND Connection Between KX3 KXPA100

2014-11-25 Thread stan levandowski
I just bought a KXPA100 and I'm not using any ground between it and 
the KX3. My station is on the second floor and I use a balanced antenna 
in my attic so I don't have either a station ground beyond the house 
wiring's 3rd prong nor do I have an RF ground. I have no problems and 
no RFI either.



I'll be interested in whatever answers are posted here.


73, Stan WB2LQF


On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 10:36 AM, Paul Bousquet wrote:

Just wondering how important it is to have connect the GND terminals 
between the KX3 and the KXPA100 amp. The KXPA100 manual states the 
station ground should be connected to the KXPA100 GND thumbscrew. I 
was just wondering since there are many cables connected between the 
two if the additional GND connection is truly necessary.


PS: This is my first attempt at communicating on the list and I just 
wanted to say how helpful it has been. I have spent many hours 
searching and getting information perviously posted.


Thanks, Paul
N1PEB
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[Elecraft] KX3 - SWR Display of --

2014-11-21 Thread stan levandowski
 I just got a KXPA100 yesterday.  It seems to work as specified except 
that above 10 watts of power, the KX3 display randomly {like in not all 
the time} shows two dashes instead of the SWR. 


I do not have the internal tuner option.  I am using my SGC237 
autocoupler into a center fed Zepp.  My W2 wattmeter shows the proper 
power output and the SWR  is usually 1:1 or very close.


This does not occur at power levels at or below 10 watts which means 
it's most likely not the KX3's problem but rather the amplifier's 
behavior.


Happens on different bands and frequencies.  If this is documented 
somewhere then I've missed it.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - SWR Display of --

2014-11-21 Thread stan levandowski
Dick and Matt, thanks for the responses.  Now I'm better informed which 
is always a good thing!

Have a pleasant Thanksgiving, folks.
 
I must say that the level of integration between the KX3 and the KXPA100 
is simply stunning!  



As a dedicated QRP op for over half a century it was very difficult for 
me to make this purchase just on general principles.  I finally bought 
it to help the OTHER guy out during long ragchews, not for myself.  I'm 
a very charitable guy.



73, Stan WB2LQF




On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 03:01 PM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:


Sorry Matt, this isn't quite right.

The KXPA100's SWR bridge is on its LPF board, and is part of all 
KXPA100's,

with or without the  KXAT100 Antenna Tuner Option.

The KX3 currently doesn't display the KXPA100's SWR, it instead 
displays the

KX3 SWR measurement.
When the KXPA100 is PA Bypassed (under about 10 watts), the KX3 SWR 
bridge
sees the antenna impedance, so the SWR display is appropriate. 
However when
the KXPA100 is not bypassed, the KX3 SWR display is of the input of 
the

KXPA100.

Wayne has on his KX3 firmware todo list a task to display KXPA100 
SWR on

the KX3 display when appropriate.

The KX3 displays dashes when its power is too low for an accurate SWR
measurement.

The KXPA100's view of the antenna system SWR can be displayed with the
KXPA100 Utility Operate Page, LEDs on an KXAT100-equipped KXPA100, or 
an

external SWR meter like our W2.

73, Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
Matt

VK2RQ
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2014 11:36 AM
To: stan levandowski
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - SWR Display of --

Above 10W of power, the KX3 will disable the internal KXAT3 ATU and 
rely on
the amplifier to supply the SWR readings over the ACC1 cable. However, 
the

SWR bridge for the amplifier is part of the KXAT100 ATU option for the
amplifier, so if this option is not equipped, the amplifier will not 
be able
to supply any SWR readings. I'm guessing this is the reason you are 
seeing

the '--' dashes for SWR when operating above 10W. If the behaviour is
intermittent, it may indicate a problem with your ACC1 cable 
connection.


73, Matt VK2RQ


On 22 Nov 2014, at 3:06 am, stan levandowski  wrote:

I just got a KXPA100 yesterday.  It seems to work as specified except 
that
above 10 watts of power, the KX3 display randomly {like in not all 
the

time} shows two dashes instead of the SWR.


I do not have the internal tuner option.  I am using my SGC237 
autocoupler
into a center fed Zepp.  My W2 wattmeter shows the proper power output 
and

the SWR  is usually 1:1 or very close.


This does not occur at power levels at or below 10 watts which means 
it's

most likely not the KX3's problem but rather the amplifier's behavior.


Happens on different bands and frequencies.  If this is documented

somewhere then I've missed it.


73, Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - SWR Display of --

2014-11-21 Thread stan levandowski
That's exactly what I experienced.  Tweaking the power level fixed 
 it.  I was messing at about 12-13 watts when it first occured. 
 Increased to 15 and it went away.



Don't laugh.for a 50+ year veteran of QRP operating, it's not that 
easy to turn the knob up to 75 or 100 watts.  I have to wean myself in a 
serie



On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 03:11 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Stan,

That indication is normal when the power level is too low for a 
valid SWR computation.
The KX3 SWR indication is used below 10 watts, but the KXPA100 
indication is used above that level.
It should go away if you increase (or decrease) the power a bit.  It 
sounds as though you are operating right on that critical threshold.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/21/2014 11:06 AM, stan levandowski wrote:
 I just got a KXPA100 yesterday.  It seems to work as specified 
except that above 10 watts of power, the KX3 display randomly {like 
in not all the time} shows two dashes instead of the SWR.


I do not have the internal tuner option.  I am using my SGC237 
autocoupler into a center fed Zepp.  My W2 wattmeter shows the proper 
power output and the SWR  is usually 1:1 or very close.


This does not occur at power levels at or below 10 watts which means 
it's most likely not the KX3's problem but rather the amplifier's 
behavior.




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Re: [Elecraft] Using tube transmitter with K3/KX3/K2 as receiver?

2014-10-23 Thread stan levandowski
Phil, AD5X, has an article on a T/R switch at: 
 http://www.ad5x.com/images/Articles/QSKBArevA.pdf



I've built it and it works FB.


As far as why one would want to do this: It's just downright fun to 
build a homebrew tube rig, for QRP or otherwise, and to restore a 
vintage transmitter.  If we already have a good, modern transceiver in 
the shack, then half the problem is solved.



I've had much fun with my Xtal controlled 6C4-5763 rig, chirps and 
all



73, Stan WB2LQF 

On Thu, Oct 23, 2014 at 12:18 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Eric,

Although I am not certain why you would want to do that, it can be 
done - Elecraft gear offers seamless transceive operation all by 
itself, so I do not understand the fascination with an external tube 
type transmitter.  OTOH, if you really want to do that --




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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Key Clicks

2014-09-14 Thread stan levandowski
I have the same problem with my KX3 serial 0325, uC=1.5 and DSP=1.21.  I 
never really noticed it until I abandoned paddles and reverted to bug 
and 'swiper operation.  It's not impossible; just unpleasant so I turn 
down the AF gain with my left hand when transmitting.



It may have always been there but paddle usage doesn't really require 
the concentration that bug and 'swiper use demands to achieve proper 
spacing and timing.



Anyway...that's my two cents.


73, Stan WB2LQF


On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 10:13 AM, Mark Newbold wrote:

I'm going to jump in here with my 2 cents worth, because I would 
REALLY like Elecraft to clean up the QSK on the KX3.


Recently I've been noticing annoying pops in the speaker when sending 
CW. Maybe they've always been there. I never noticed them before. It's 
been a while since I installed firmware, so they must have been 
present but ignored for a while at least. They really jumped out at me 
when I started playing with a new sideswiper paddle last week.


The pops happen at key-up, not key-down.
They are heard with the internal speaker and also with external 
speaker or headphones.
The pops are present when using the internal keyer, with an external 
keyer, and with a hand key.
If I send a series of dits while varying the keyer speed (with 
external keyer), the pops are most pronounced around 19 wpm.

My KX3 is S/N 77, on FW 2.11.
Dual watch is not active. RIT and XIT are off.
My AFX mode is DELAY.
My QSK delay is set to 0.01 to try and reduce the QSK thumping.

--Mark K7NEW


On 9/13/2014 03:42, Joel Black wrote:


With my KX3 terminated into a dummy load, split and dual watch 
active, VFO B 1 - 5.3 kHz up or down from VFO A, filter set to 450 Hz 
and centered, I am getting key clicks on VFO B. NB and NR are off.


73/72,
Joel - W4JBB
KX3 #1479





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[Elecraft] (OT) FS: Begali Paddle SOLD

2014-07-09 Thread stan levandowski

SOLD - Thank you!


Begali Leonessa dual action iambic/mono paddle.  Please email me 
off-list if interested.



73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) FS: Begali Paddle

2014-07-08 Thread stan levandowski
Begali Leonessa dual action iambic/mono paddle.  Please email me 
off-list if interested.



73, Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] (OT) -- Regarding the QRP Discussion

2014-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
FYI - if any Listers here happened to work 3DA0US in the last couple of 
days, you might be interested to  learn that he was running a KX3 at 
between 5 and 10 watts depending upon his DC input level.  His antenna 
was a PAR Omni Angle on a 22 foot fiberglass pole.  He made 400 contacts 
in two days of operating and he was only on a few hours each day.  In a 
couple of weeks he'll be operating as 7P8US with the same rig and 
antenna.  



The PAR Omni Angle is only a 7 foot aluminum rectangle with a matching 
network and it only weighs a couple of pounds.  Most hams would probably 
dub the Par Omni Angle a suboptimal or compromise antenna.  



A well versed operator, knowledge of propagation, patience, preparation, 
perseverance and top shelf equipment goes a long way to offset the 
handicap of a compromise antenna.



73, Stan WB2LQF







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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) -- Regarding the QRP Discussion

2014-02-06 Thread stan levandowski
When I bought mine a few months ago, it was $99 for the antenna and one 
matchbox; each additional matchbox was $20.    73, Stan WB2LQF



On Thu, Feb 06, 2014 at 08:40 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:


Does anyone know what this antenna costs?
On the website, it says E-mail for pricing.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 2/6/2014 5:05 PM, stan levandowski wrote:
FYI - if any Listers here happened to work 3DA0US in the last couple 
of days, you might be interested to  learn that he was running a KX3 
at between 5 and 10 watts depending upon his DC input level.  His 
antenna was a PAR Omni Angle on a 22 foot fiberglass pole.  He made 
400 contacts in two days of operating and he was only on a few hours 
each day.  In a couple of weeks he'll be operating as 7P8US with the 
same rig and antenna.



The PAR Omni Angle is only a 7 foot aluminum rectangle with a 
matching network and it only weighs a couple of pounds.  Most hams 
would probably dub the Par Omni Angle a suboptimal or compromise 
antenna.



A well versed operator, knowledge of propagation, patience, 
preparation, perseverance and top shelf equipment goes a long way to 
offset the handicap of a compromise antenna.



73, Stan WB2LQF







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[Elecraft] (OT) FOR SALE: High Quality Keys, Bugs, Paddles

2014-01-16 Thread stan levandowski
I am paring down my high quality key collection to one bug, one paddle, 
and one straight key.


CW enthusiasts who may be interested in any of the below should contact 
me OFF-LIST for details about each key.  I will send you an information 
file which includes condiiton, images and prices.  I'm more interested 
in finding good homes for these works of art vs. making money so the 
prices are very reasonable.



The Elecraft List is the first and only place this notice is being 
posted at this time. 



Sorry - Will ship to continental U.S. 

Vibroplex Champion (1965) includes flat-arm Vari-Speed

Begali Spark straight key
Begali Blade straight key
Begali Sculpture MONO paddle
Begali Stradivarius iambic paddle
Begali Traveler Light portable iambic paddle

Alberto Frattini Semi-Automatico bug in brass (this is the dual lever 
bug)

Alberto Frattini Marconi 213 straight key in chrome
Alberto Frattini Lamallare iambic paddle in chrome
Alberto Frattini J-36 bug in chrome

Schurr MMK mid-sized straight key in brass

Original N2DAN Mercury paddle dated 01/94 #242 by Steve Nurkiewicz. 

73, Stan WB2LQF














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[Elecraft] (OT) UPDATE: High Quality Keys, Bugs, Paddles

2014-01-16 Thread stan levandowski

Overwhelming response.  


Keys remaining are: 


Begali Spark straight key
Begali Blade straight key
Alberto Frattini J36 bug in chrome
Alberto Frattini Marconi 213 straight key in chrome


Contact me off-list for further info and images if interested.


73, Stan WB2LQF

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[Elecraft] {OT} WW2DEM

2014-01-08 Thread stan levandowski

For those with interest:

The museum ship USS SLATER in Albany, NY is the very last of 563 
destroyer escorts built during World War II that remains afloat in 
America.  It's been restored to 1945 condition and represents a real 
piece of history.



For years, the amateur station has limped along with 30 year old 
technology. 



Today, WW2DEM is on-the-air with its new All-American-made 100 watt 
fully optioned K2.  Many thanks to Dale Putnam WC7S who built up the 
K2/100 plus options for only the cost of shipping, to Tony Baleno who 
built and donated a beautiful ZN-9 paddle and to Ken WB2ART who provided 
attractive bezel personalization.



The ship is on the air most Saturdays (daytime) on 7062 CW; 7262 SSB or 
14062 CW; 14262 SSB 



Only the ship's vintage maritime antennas are used.  They consist of 70 
and 80 foot wire verticals and a 100' long wire plus a 190' long wire 
that runs towards the fantail and then back up to the main mast. 
 Matching is easily accomplished with the KAT2.



There is a QRZ page entry for WW2DEM with QSL info, etc.


73, Stan WB2LQF



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Re: [Elecraft] QRP

2013-09-29 Thread stan levandowski
Nice going, Tony.  And you were still only 30 dB (approx 5 S Units) down 
from  a 100 watt station! 

 72, Stan WB2LQF
 
 
 On Sun, Sep 29, 2013 at 10:49 AM, Tony Castellano wrote:
 
  Last evening I had my best CW QRP contact yet. Running 0.1 Watts (100 
milli Watts) to my wire antenna (OCF) I worked Japan, JA7BXS and 
received a 559 signal report. My QTH is in Hopewell Juction, NY which is 
close to Poughkeepsie, so this equates

to 67,105 miles per Watt. I was using my KX3 by the way.
I only work CW QRP, and to date, I have 182 countries.
Tony Castellano W1ZMB
tcaste...@optonline.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
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[Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE

2013-09-26 Thread stan levandowski
 About 3 weeks ago, I learned about a new miracle antenna -  I usually 
dismiss such nonsense because there *is* no miracle antenna.  However, 
the person who informed me is a trusted, capable, educated ham and 
DXpeditioner who is not easily impressed.


I still don't believe in miracles but this 2.5 lb, 7 by 4 foot, easy 
up/easy down, no tools required, easy-to-tune $99 new product 
by Dale Parfitt [designer of the PAR End FedZ series] offers 
a realistic alternative to those with severe antenna restrictions, attic 
installations, SOTA needs, and so on.  It is easily mounted on a Jackite 
or similar fiberglass pole. Just put it on and slide it down until it's 
a good friction fit.


The antenna is resonant for a single band ( choose: 20, 17, 15, 12, 10 
or 6) and additional matchboxes can be purchased for around $25 each.


I bought the 17 meter version and in two weeks of non-scientific, 
casual A/B testing against my 44' doublet, the Omni Angle has been equal 
or better on receive the majority of times and about the same on 
transmit.  On receive it seems notaby less noisy than my doublet.  It is 
horizontally polarized. 


I don't want to create an antenna controversy here on proper antenna 
testing techniques -- I seem to have a flair for doing  that -- ;) 


But I do want to pass along info on this new product which might be very 
useful to those of us who have to live with antenna restrictions or who 
need options for effective portable operations.


Here is a short Youtube video I cobbled together to demonstrate my 17 
meter PAR Omni Angle.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGTq4zVAW_w

73, Stan WB2LQF


 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE

2013-09-26 Thread stan levandowski


 Go to:  http://www.parelectronics.com/index.php 
http://www.parelectronics.com/index.php   and click on HF Omnis

 
Dale Parfitt (PAR) sold EndFedZ to LNR.  Dale remains in business at PAR 
Electronics mostly doing business with commercial, government and 
military.  I think that's where the confusion is.  73, Stan WB2LQF

 
 
On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 11:13 AM, Carlton Haycock wrote:
 
 
I thought PAR was out of the antenna business, sold to LNR?

From: stan levandowski sjl...@optonline.net
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2013 9:57:15 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE
 About 3 weeks ago, I learned about a new miracle antenna -  I usually
dismiss such nonsense because there *is* no miracle antenna.  However,
the person who informed me is a trusted, capable, educated ham and
DXpeditioner who is not easily impressed.
I still don't believe in miracles but this 2.5 lb, 7 by 4 foot, easy
up/easy down, no tools required, easy-to-tune $99 new product
by Dale Parfitt [designer of the PAR End FedZ series] offers
a realistic alternative to those with severe antenna restrictions, attic
installations, SOTA needs, and so on.  It is easily mounted on a Jackite
or similar fiberglass pole. Just put it on and slide it down until it's
a good friction fit.
The antenna is resonant for a single band ( choose: 20, 17, 15, 12, 10
or 6) and additional matchboxes can be purchased for around $25 each.
I bought the 17 meter version and in two weeks of non-scientific,
casual A/B testing against my 44' doublet, the Omni Angle has been equal
or better on receive the majority of times and about the same on
transmit.  On receive it seems notaby less noisy than my doublet.  It is
horizontally polarized. 
I don't want to create an antenna controversy here on proper antenna
testing techniques -- I seem to have a flair for doing  that -- ;) 
But I do want to pass along info on this new product which might be very
useful to those of us who have to live with antenna restrictions or who
need options for effective portable operations.
Here is a short Youtube video I cobbled together to demonstrate my 17
meter PAR Omni Angle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGTq4zVAW_w
73, Stan WB2LQF

 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE

2013-09-26 Thread stan levandowski
Hi Vic.  My 44' doublet is in my attic, arranged as a flat top for 24' 
and then drooping straight down at both ends.  The antenna is almost 
exactly 30' above the earth.  It is fed with 14' of 450  ohm ladder 
line straight down through a slit in my ceiling and into a linen closet 
where it meets up with an SG237 autocoupler.  This keeps the autocoupler 
out of the winter cold and summer heat of the attic.  From there I have 
a run of nice clean 50 ohm coax to my second story shack  This attic 
doublet arrangement is nearly 4 years old and has served me exceedingly 
well on 40 through 10 meters, inclusive.  I only run 5 watts CW at all 
times simply because I love QRP and I love CW and it's my thing.   The 
frequency agility of the doublet/autocoupler combination has been 
wonderful because those of us in restrictive environments usually don't 
have room for more than one, possibly two good antennas.  I have a 
very RF friendly attic in terms of no foil insulation, no HVAC, only 
PVC plumbing stacks, etc.  Of course, there is some attenuation but at 
HF I believe (from what I've been able to research)   that this 
attenuation is frequently overstated and often considered to be far 
worse than what it really is.  In my experience, the worst penalties 
that follow an attic (or any indoor) installation - RF exposure 
notwithstanding - are skewed radiation pattern and house noise.

i
By comparison, the Omni Angle when this video was made was at 27' - 3' 
lower than the doublet's flat top section.  That was 15' above the lower 
deck + 12' up on the Jackite.  The Omni Angle was facing E-W in the 
sense that the front wire portion was pointing in that direction; the 
attic doublet was pointing in the same E-W direction. Of course, we can 
all agree, I'm sure, that this information doesn't help all that much in 
comparing these two antennas because the drooped attic doublet had some 
vertical component and most assuredly some skew in its pattern + as 
another Lister pointed out, on 17M there are lobes on the doublet.


But here's what I think is important to know:  For those of us (and 
we're probably an increasing number in today's world) who can't enjoy 
antenna freedom this Omni Angle represents another option and a darn 
good one from my experience of the last 3 weeks.  In my case, it fits 
the footprint of my deck.  I can put it up on my 31' jackite to about 
the 25' + 15' for the upper deck gives me 40' of height, clear of my 
roof line, and away from the attic house noise.


My attic doublet is my overall favorite antenna and out of the weather 
and is always ready for me.  It's earned me DXCC at the QRP level, QRP 
WAC, and I've worked all states too.  It's gotten me to Japan from NY on 
5 watts more than once.  But this Omni Angle also got me to Tokyo on 5 
watts just last week.  So, based on my experience, the Omni Angle is a 
competitive antenna for a restrictive home QTH, for portable work and, 
in my case, for stationary mobile where I drive to a scenic rest stop, 
drop a fiberglass pole into my hombrew mount on my VW Bug, hoist an 
antenna that's significantly better than a Hamstick, and enjoy ham 
radio.


Hope this helps to answer your questions, Vic, as well as those of other 
Listers with antenna restrictions.


73, Stan WB2LQF

 
 
 On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 12:33 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
 
  How high was the 44' doublet?


How was it oriented compared to the Omni Angle antenna?

Is the doublet in inverted V or horizontal configuration?

I am finding this interesting because I am soon moving to an 
antenna-restricted location.


On 9/26/2013 6:57 AM, stan levandowski wrote:
  About 3 weeks ago, I learned about a new miracle antenna -  I 
usually dismiss such
nonsense because there *is* no miracle antenna.  However, the person 
who informed me is a
trusted, capable, educated ham and DXpeditioner who is not easily 
impressed.


I still don't believe in miracles but this 2.5 lb, 7 by 4 foot, 
easy up/easy down, no
tools required, easy-to-tune $99 new product by Dale Parfitt 
[designer of the PAR End
FedZ series] offers a realistic alternative to those with severe 
antenna restrictions,
attic installations, SOTA needs, and so on.  It is easily mounted on 
a Jackite or similar
fiberglass pole. Just put it on and slide it down until it's a good 
friction fit.


The antenna is resonant for a single band ( choose: 20, 17, 15, 12, 
10 or 6) and

additional matchboxes can be purchased for around $25 each.

I bought the 17 meter version and in two weeks of non-scientific, 
casual A/B testing
against my 44' doublet, the Omni Angle has been equal or better on 
receive the majority of
times and about the same on transmit.  On receive it seems notaby 
less noisy than my

doublet.  It is horizontally polarized.

I don't want to create an antenna controversy here on proper antenna 
testing techniques --

I seem to have a flair for doing  that -- ;)

But I do want to pass along info on this new product which might

Re: [Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE

2013-09-26 Thread stan levandowski
Vic, I don't know how to model. It's on my bucket list.  However, my 
personal opinion is that while modeling may give a general starting 
point, all bets are off once the antenna - especially an indoor antenna 
- is actually put in place.  You've got a point about Italy not exactly 
being west of me.  In fact, IZ2GRG bears 55 degrees.  But this still 
bodes well for the Omni Angle in that it's omnidirectional and did a 
heck of a job on rescuing his signal from a fixed doublet looking the 
wrong way.  This just points out one more nagging constraint we 
antenna-restricted hams have to deal with:  the direction our homes 
face!


To offer one more nugget from my inventory of sometimes weird solutions 
to being antenna-restricted:  My attic doublet is always up and ready 
and connected to a 6 way antenna/transceiver coax switch.  I have two 
more coax cables running outside and usually, I put up one of my other 
non-permanent antennas which is always vertically polarized -- either 
a PAR EndFedZ  or a 40-6 meter EFHW also vertical.  My third antenna is 
a 53 foot random wire at 28' that terminates in a 9:1 BalunDesigns UNUN 
and it's outside and stealth.


But the 44' doublet in the attic clearly and 
consistently outperforms everything in my arsenal except the new Omni 
Angle which has been interestingly competitive as noted. 


I have no idea how the Omni Angle would work indoors, in an attic for 
example.  Frankly it has such a small footprint and is so light and 
rapid to erect that I probably will never bother to try it there.  
However, it could easily be installed in an attic or even near the 
ceiling in a room. This is because of the easy way it assembles and 
disassembles; not a problem assembling it around and between the attic 
framing.  And at 2.5 lbs I suppose a simple plant hangar in the ceiling 
would hold it up easily. 


In closing, I consider myself extremely fortunate to have found antenna 
solutions that allow me to enjoy enjoy QRP to the fullest extent.  I 
wish everyone else the same good fortune.  And Thank God for the 
invention of collapsible fiberglass poles!  Where would we be without 
them??


73,Stan WB2LQF 

 
 
 On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 03:21 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
 
  Stan,


Interesting. I did a quick EZNEC plot of the pattern of a 44' doublet 
(close to a full wavelength) at 30' on 18.07 MHz and didn't see any 
deep undefineds in the horizontal pattern. But in the direction of 
Italy from NY it is down about 5 dB from the maximum gain in the E-W 
direction. I recently modeled the 'cobweb' antenna, which is a 
'square' dipole similar to the Omni-angle configuration; it had a 
maximum gain of about 2 dB less than a dipole and would be down an 
additional 1.4 db in the direction of Italy.


So my guess is that about only 1.6 dB of the difference between the 
dipole and the Omni-angle antenna came from the patterns. The rest 
could be attributed to the location of the doublet in the attic and 
the dropped ends (I didn't model this, but I suspect it has an 
effect).


On 9/26/2013 11:46 AM, stan levandowski wrote:
Hi Vic.  My 44' doublet is in my attic, arranged as a flat top for 
24' and then drooping
straight down at both ends.  The antenna is almost exactly 30' above 
the earth.  It is fed
with 14' of 450  ohm ladder line straight down through a slit in my 
ceiling and into a
linen closet where it meets up with an SG237 autocoupler.  This keeps 
the autocoupler out
of the winter cold and summer heat of the attic.  From there I have a 
run of nice clean
50 ohm coax to my second story shack  This attic doublet 
arrangement is nearly 4 years
old and has served me exceedingly well on 40 through 10 meters, 
inclusive.  I only run 5
watts CW at all times simply because I love QRP and I love CW and 
it's my thing.   The
frequency agility of the doublet/autocoupler combination has been 
wonderful because those
of us in restrictive environments usually don't have room for more 
than one, possibly two
good antennas.  I have a very RF friendly attic in terms of no foil 
insulation, no HVAC,
only PVC plumbing stacks, etc.  Of course, there is some attenuation 
but at HF I believe
(from what I've been able to research)   that this attenuation is 
frequently overstated
and often considered to be far worse than what it really is.  In my 
experience, the
worst penalties that follow an attic (or any indoor) installation - 
RF exposure

notwithstanding - are skewed radiation pattern and house noise.
i
By comparison, the Omni Angle when this video was made was at 27' - 
3' lower than the
doublet's flat top section.  That was 15' above the lower deck + 12' 
up on the Jackite.
The Omni Angle was facing E-W in the sense that the front wire 
portion was pointing in
that direction; the attic doublet was pointing in the same E-W 
direction. Of course, we
can all agree, I'm sure, that this information doesn't help all that 
much in comparing
these two antennas because the drooped attic doublet had some

[Elecraft] [OT] The Joy of QRP

2013-09-25 Thread stan levandowski
...so there I am tuning across 20 meters and the band seems dead.  
Having learned a lot about self-fulfilling prophesies across my 53 year 
ham career, I go up to 14.060 and send one quick CQ.


A tiny signal appears but the KX3 has what it takes to make the most of 
the situation.  I manage to dig out N4KGL/6.  He's about a 329; he gives 
me a 449. 


Seems Greg is sitting in a hotel room at LAX in front of his own KX3 
hooked to a Buddistick. 


We're both running 5 watts.

My antenna is a doublet in my attic in New York.

Coast-to-Coast on 5 watts and a couple of suboptimal antennas on a dead 
band.


Ahthe joy of the unexpected!

72, Stan WB2LQF


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[Elecraft] (K2) - Wanted to Buy - K2/100 FOUND ONE THANKS

2013-09-19 Thread stan levandowski
Thanks all for your responses and offers.  Found a solution and 
presently in process.  Thanks again, Stan WB2LQF.


Fellow Listers, I am looking for a 100 watt K2 at a reasonable cost.  
Please reply off-list with condition, installed options and asking 
price.


We would like to replace the outdated gear presently used at WW2DEM with 
a quality modern Made in the USA rig.  Of course Elecraft immediately 
comes to mind.


WW2DEM is the museum ship USS SLATER, the last WWII destroyer escort 
afloat in America.


73, Stan WB2LQF

 
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[Elecraft] (K2) - Wanted to Buy - K2/100

2013-09-18 Thread stan levandowski
Fellow Listers, I am looking for a 100 watt K2 at a reasonable cost.  
Please reply off-list with condition, installed options and asking 
price.


We would like to replace the outdated gear presently used at WW2DEM with 
a quality modern Made in the USA rig.  Of course Elecraft immediately 
comes to mind.


WW2DEM is the museum ship USS SLATER, the last WWII destroyer escort 
afloat in America.


73, Stan WB2LQF

 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] paddle question

2013-09-07 Thread stan levandowski
Good morning, Doug.  You can not use the KX3PD paddle directly with the 
KX1 because the KX3PD is a two point mount and uses a very 
different plug and jack arrangement, whereas, the KX1PD is a single 
point mount and the plug is an integral 1/8 inch stereo.


If you wanted to use the KX3PD with the KX1 you would have to fabricate 
your own transition mount.


The Begali Adventure that you refer to will work on both radios because 
you would purchase individual mounts for each of the radios. 


Yes, the KX1 is a *still* a neat little rig and I frequently take it 
out, instead of my KX3, just because the QSOs earned on 900 milliwatts 
with a 26 foot piece of wire and a 16' counterpoise are very rewarding. 


73, Stan WB2LQF
 
 
 On Sat, Sep 07, 2013 at 07:09 AM, Doug Turnbull wrote:
 
  Dear OMs and Yls,
I just took delivery of a KX1 purchased used.   I am most 
impressed with
the small radio and have now made four QSOs with fellow EUs running 4 
Watts
to a 4 el SteppIR at 24M.   Well the test will come when I change over 
to a
hank of wire operated against a counterpoise.   The receiver is 
amazing to
me and the transmitter pretty good.So much is in such a small 
package.


My main gripe just now is the lousy paddle which comes with the 
KX1 as a

option.I also have a KX3 also purchased used and waiting for me in
Connecticut.   It has a paddle which I have tried on my friends KX3 - 
this
paddle is much better than the one on the KX1.Can I swap the KX3 
paddle
onto the KX1?I know Bengali has an elegant wee paddle which mounts 
on

the KX1 or KX3 depending on the attachment purchased.   This may be my
ultimate solution but the KX3 paddle if it mounts would be a big help.

   I do not want to carry around an external paddle weighing more than 
the
KX1.   The extremely small size and weight have a great attraction to 
me.
Having a big bag of accessories is not to my liking.   A simple radio 
and

some wire seems to be ideal for me.The KX3 is for different
applications.

   The receiver is great fun on both CW and SSB and the stability of 
it
impresses me.  Today was discussing the old Hallicrafters SX28 and you 
know
the KX1 seems to have a better receiver.  I think this small wonder is 
great

fun and can see why Elecraft has kept it in the product line.

   73 Doug EI2CN

K3, KX3, KX1



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[Elecraft] {KX1} - Begali Adventure mounted to a KX1 - video

2013-08-19 Thread stan levandowski

For KX1 users who wonder what it would look like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZvKZ9aXCf4

73, Stan WB2LQF


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Re: [Elecraft] Loop antenna's

2013-08-13 Thread stan levandowski
I have a nonresonant-in-any-ham-band 44' doublet in my attic peak at 31' 
above ground.  Only 26' is actually flat top while the rest droops 
down at the ends.  I have 16' of 450 ohm ladder line coming through a 
slit in the ceiling just above a linen closet.  In that linen closet, on 
a shelf right below the ceiling is an SG237 auto coupler.  From that 
point onward to my shack, the coax feed line is nice and clean and 
length no longer matters.


I've had this antenna up there for four years now and have yet to find a 
more effective solution for my antenna restricted QTH.  I've 
experimented with other attic solutions, including various full, random 
and partial wave loops.  Outside, I've experimented with temporary end 
fed wires in different configurations, random stealth wires, and 
vertical antennas.  They've all worked but so far nothing has 
consistently outperformed my attic doublet, day in and day out, for 
effortless frequency agility between 40 meters and 6 meters, inclusive 
of all bands.  It loads on 80 meters also, well enough to provide me 
with some winter time entertainment.  Without bragging, this doublet 
has earned me QRP WAC, WAS, and a QSL album with a host of impressive 
QSO not only with KW stations and large antennas but with some very 
modest stations using simple wire antennas in some remote locations 
around the world. 


Attic success requires, in my opinion and experience, two conditions:  
1) an RF Friendly attic and 2) Enough height.  An RF Friendly attic 
includes no metal foil building insulation and shingles that do not 
absorb RF, no HVAC, and luck.  Enough height suggests that a two 
story (or higher) attic trumps a low ranch style home.  The antenna is 
looking for height above ground, not height above the attic floor!  
There is  much talk of distorted patterns, RF absorption, and other 
consequences.  At HF frequencies, there is very little RF absorption in 
wood.  And who cares about pattern distortion as long as the antenna 
works well ;)


With 53 years of ham radio behind me, I've yet to find any simple 
wire antenna --overall-- that beats a resonant dipole for single band 
work or a parallel line fed doublet and a coupler for frequency agility.


P.S. - the autocoupler is in the closet below the attic to keep it out 
of the intense summer heat and winter cold.  Attics are not the greatest 
environment for electronic equipment.


My two cents,

Stan WB2LQF



 
 
 On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 10:54 PM, k3...@comcast.net wrote:
 
  Let me throw some stuff out. Electrically small loops can work out 
very well if they are constructed correctly. I was impressed with the 
Alexloop that one of our Field Day operators brought to the site. It was 
used for an unrelated station on site that the operator was using to 
demo his new KX3 using PSK-31 on 20 meters. He had the loop because he 
wanted a portable antenna that might work. The Alex fit his needs 
nicely. However, there are much more effective antennas that can be used 
in a fixed location.


One of those antennas is a 1/2 wave dipole up in an attic, fed with 
open wire to a point below the ceiling where there is a transition to 
coax using a balun and a tuner. The 1/2 wave length is dependent on 
room available in the attic, and it doesn't need to be in a totally 
straight line. The antenna can have some bend at the end. The antenna 
tuner will work out the impedance issues. I put one of these up for a 
friend who has a two story house with a very high pitched roof and 
enough room to install 66' of wire. He has been happy working 40-10 
meters. My friend lives in an antenna restricted development just as 
the initiator of this thread.
And lastly, A loop antenna made of wire the traces the outside roof 
periphery using insulated wire colored to match the roofing will also 
work well. It can be fed just like a loop sky wire ( shown in ARRL 
pubs). Your neighbors won't see it and it can work out pretty well. I 
would get too anal about total wire length as open wire is pretty low 
loss stuff, even at very high SWR, and a balun and tuner will take 
care of the issue with coax. Just make sure that the tuner is as close 
to the open wire as possible.
Antennas are fun. Every ham has his own idea about what is best. I 
make no claim as to how close to best these are, but they do work. 
Best of luck.

73, Barry K3NDM

- Original Message -

From: Bill Ross  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, August 
12, 2013 3:50:17 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Loop antenna's
I read the two posts about the MFJ loop antenna and thought I would 
add my own personal comments on my experience’s with loops.
Years ago, I bought a MFJ 36” loop with the remote tuner and while it 
worked from indoors from 30m to 10m, it wasn’t earth shaking. I was 
always the weakest signal in a round table. That was when MFJ was 
still recommending using the loop in a horizontal position rather than 
vertical as they do now.
Now, I had been reading some 

Re: [Elecraft] OT: Cristal Sets

2013-07-25 Thread stan levandowski
When I was 10 years old (55 years ago), I found a child's picture book 
in the library that showed a copper penny, a safety pin, and a wire coil 
mounted on a piece of wood.  I had no particular interest in radio or 
science at that time but this book appealed to me.  I borrowed the book, 
went home and built the radio.  My antenna was just a piece of wire on 
the floor.  The darn thing worked!  Now, several decades later I realize 
that living across the street from the WALL transmitter helped out a lot 
;)  But that little book and a single afternoon started me off on the 
greatest hobby in the world.  I have since tried reconstructing such a 
set and never had any luck.  It's got to be a real copper penny, the 
older and more beat up the better, and the safety pin has to find 
exactly the right spot and make contact just right.  Except if you 
live across from the transmitter tower in which case you can probably 
just go outside and listen to your gutter and downspout junction!

Stan WB2LQF
 
 
 On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 03:52 AM, David Gilbert wrote:
 
 
Actually, I'm pretty sure the crystal set you are referring to used a 
piece of galena (a lead sulphide compound), not germanium (and not 
geranium, which is a flower).  Early crystal sets used a piece of 
springy wire called a cat whisker to contact the galena at a 
sometimes difficult-to-locate crystal, in essence forming a crude 
point contact (i.e., Schottky) diode.  The crystals are small but 
naturally occurring in the galena.  My dad had such a set and I 
remember using it when I was about six or seven years old (60 years 
ago for me), but by that time actual germanium diodes were available 
and my first real radio used one of those.


73,
Dave   AB7E




On 7/25/2013 12:22 AM, Chuck Smallhouse wrote:
My first experience hearing local AM stations was using an actual 
chunk of geranium crystal mounted in a blob of lead, that you'd 
traded some of your best agate marbles for,  You used the point of a 
fine safety pin to scratch around on that chunk of geranium to find 
the sweat spot, where the station (s) came in the best into your 
headphones.  It didn't seem to be the same spot night after night ! 
You tried to use the longest wire that you could sneak out your 
window and up to near the top of the tallest tree in your back yard.


Later if you wanted to separate KVOA (1290) ad KTUC (1400), here in 
Tucson, you had to wind a big coil on an empty round oatmeal box, and 
try and tune it with a variable capacitor that you'd rescued from a 
defunct radio.  This was all mounted on a bread board, generally a 
short section of a 1x 6 or a 1x 8pine or redwood board.  Terminal 
points were metal screws into the board (preferably brass) that the 
wires were wrapped around !


Gee, that was well over 70 years ago !  Time sure flies when you are 
having fun !


Chuck,.  W7CS


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Radios for Sale

2013-06-30 Thread stan levandowski

PLEASE REPLY OFFLIST IF INTERESTED

K2/10 serial #6XXX
Purchase Date July 8, 2010
Options include:
 KAF2 Audio Filter and Real Time Clock
 KAT2 Automatic Antenna Tuner
 KNB2 Noise Blanker
 Toroids were pre-wound by “The Toroid Guy”
 N8BX Brass Knob
 All original documentation
As equipped, the original cost was $1200.  I will sell for $600 + actual 
cost for UPS professional packing, insurance, signature confirmation and 
shipping cost to your CONUS zip code.


K1-4 (80, 40, 20, 15) serial #2XXX
Purchase Date April 8, 2011
Options include:
 K1 Backlight
 KAT1 Automatic Antenna Tuner
 KNB1 Noise Blanker
 Toroids were pre-wound by “The Toroid Guy”
 N8BX Brass Knob
 All original documentation
As equipped, the original cost was $600.  I will sell for $300 + actual 
cost for UPS professional packing, insurance, signature confirmation and 
shipping cost to your CONUS zip code.


I built the K1 and K2 myself.  My credentials include 53 years in 
amateur radio, Amateur Extra Class License, all commercial licenses 
(GROL with Ship Radar, GMDSS Maintainer, 2nd Class Radiotelegraph 
Certificate). Non-smoking environment. Cosmetically, both the K1 and K2 
are 10 out of 10. Operationally, everything works as it should on the 
K2 and there are no issues.  The K1 exhibits its characteristic drift 
for a few minutes when first turned on but no other issues. 


PAYPAL and CONUS only.

Reason for selling:  My little KX3 is all the radio I need for my 
exclusive QRP CW operating.  Breaks my heart to see the K1 and K2 just 
sitting unused on the shelf.   


Thanks and 73,

Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Radios for Sale - SOLD

2013-06-30 Thread stan levandowski

Both K1 and K2 sold within minutes of posting 

Thanks and 73,

Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] New ham but seasoned CW r/o, between classic K2 and progressive KX3

2013-05-30 Thread stan levandowski
Arno, I'm looking at your email and reading between the lines:  You want 
to make the most of the time you have left and you want to reconnect 
with a meaningful time in your life which is spelled CW.  I am also a 
former US Navy RM and I operate 100% QRP CW.  I own (and use) all the 
Elecraft transceivers and that's the problem:  They are all so wonderful 
I can't bear to part with any of them.  Having said all this, I find 
myself constantly reaching for my KX3.  It has the performance, the 
all-important dual watch which makes DXing a split incredibly efficient, 
and it's been working with no issues since I got #0325.  The ATU can 
load anything.  The automatic spotting function is outstanding. In my 
opinion the KX3 *is* designed for CW.  I just totally ignore the SSB and 
other modes stuff.  If I were in your situation I would buy the KX3. 
73, Stan WB2LQF


On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 1:23 PM, Arno Dienhart wrote:


Hello,


I am a new ham, retired, and this is a kind of bucket list thing: I 
might
have one or two years left and want to get back into CW that I know 
well
from my time in the (German) Navy. I have been looking hard at a K2 
and
would be able to build it but that would not be the reason to get it. 
Life
is short and I'd prefer to just assemble a KX3. What I like about the 
K2 is
that it is designed for CW, and I would not add SSB, nor the amp, but 
the

ATU.

I also own a dual band HT, which I use for local ARES volunteer work 
and

scanning the PD band. Other than that, I'm not really into verbal rag
chewing, be it local or DX (blame my snotty CW attitude).


Only today did I realize what the KX3 is. Assembling it would be just 
fine.
While the smaller size is not necessarily a buying point for me, I 
wouldn't
mind it (I will take it outdoors). What I don't really need or want 
are the
other modes (SSB, data, and SDR), so I wonder whether I am getting the 
wrong

radio with a KX3 that is not a dedicated CW machine.


If all I did were CW, with DX ambitions nevertheless, which do you 
think

would be the better radio for me?

Thank you in advance for your suggestions and ideas, and also further
questions, if you have them.


73,


Arno

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