Stus-List 'Kedging anchor' for ICW
I recently moved my boat from CRW to New Bern, NC via the ICW. Several times we ran aground either because skipper error or shifting shoals that are impossible to keep up with unless you sail in them often. Not surprisingly our Fortress 11 was pretty useless in grabbing the bottom when thrown as far as I could manage! They need to be dropped and then backed down on to grab the bottom--pulling them in after a toss just doesn't allow them to properly set. My crew suggested I get about a 5 lb. danforth that can be thrown pretty far but that will set better than a Fortress that tends to skip along the bottom in those circumstances. My question for the list is what 'throwable' anchor for this situation would you recommend? Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb See situations would you recommends? Sent from my iPadthrown ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Antifreeze leak
AFAIK, the only thing 'special' about them is the pressure it takes to open the valve against the spring--this value is probably pretty standard at so many lbs/sq. in. but it would be listed for your engine somewhere. My engine had a mysterious leak that I finally determined was a result of NO rubber seal in it! Charlie Nelson C&C 36XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPad > On Apr 5, 2019, at 4:50 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > wrote: > > Is there anything special about the cap, or can I just get one from an auto > parts store? > > Alan Bergen > >> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 1:38 PM David Knecht via CnC-List >> wrote: >> I second Charlie’s message. My overflow tank developed a crack and it took >> me a while to find the slow leak. Fixed it with a plastic glue/sealant and >> it has been fine since. Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> >>> On Apr 5, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>> Also be sure your overflow tank/fittings and the ‘radiator’ cap are both >>> working and have good seals. >>> >>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >>> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=y7i8IG1x5O5h3NBtI56b7AX6IQ9kI2XFqdScDqhiOrY&s=PZHJbDr5gM_uSVwgM-IO3797GjO9R3oLSdj0q_FxyiM&e= > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Rob - Edge: survival
Water Phantom was on the hard in Oriental NC for bottom work and survived without a scratch--even the 9+ foot storm surge was not enough to float her off the stands. One way or another (Lady Luck included!) she has survived every hurricane that NC has suffered since Fran and Bertha in 1996 through Florence--I have lost count over 22 years--knock on wood! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries
A few years ago I replaced my batteries with Northstar? 31. They were rated very high, we’re the heaviest #31s (lots of lead) and they claim to use only ‘virgin’ lead, not recycled lead, which they claim lasts longer. Came with a 2 or 3 year full replacement warranty with the remaining 3 or 2 years out to 5 years prorated. Expensive (~$300 each) but still going after almost 3 years. I mostly club race so I can’t speak to cruising use. They are only on a charger for a few hours before a race and have never purposely been drawn down significantly. YMMV Charlie Nelson 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 5, 2018, at 1:15 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thanks. I have a smart charger on board which analyzes the battery directly > and charges accordingly. I was thinking of going with 2 Group 31 Lifeline > sealed wetted batteries. Thoughts on make/other makes. I checked out > Canadian Tire and my concern is that the warranties are below market (i.e. 12 > months)? > > Glen Eddie > Tel: 416-777-5357 > Fax: 1-888-812-2557 > Torkin Manes LLP > Barristers & Solicitors > This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named > recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential > and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this > message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. > Thank you. > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via > CnC-List > Sent: April-05-18 12:54 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Dreuge > Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries > > Multi-phase charging: bulk charge(80%) absorption charge(20%), and float > charge. The values of the charging voltage changes for different phases but > also varies with different type(i.e. Lead-Acis, AGM, Gel). Most decent > battery charges operate via multi-phase and allow one to select the bank > battery type. > > > > - > Paul E. > 1981 C&C 38 Landfall > S/V Johanna Rose > Fort Walton Beach, FL > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > > > On Apr 5, 2018, at 11:16 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > rom: CnC-List On Behalf Of Neil Andersen via > CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, April 4, 2018 13:32 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Neil Andersen > Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries > > What is meant by "charge them properly"? > > Neil Andersen > 20691 Jamieson Rd > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Geared folding props
I 2nd the Gori 2 blade geared folding prop: Lowest drag of ANY prop by experiments reported in Yachting a few years ago. Detailed recommendation of pitch and diameter after boat owner supplied info on engine, trains ratio and boat displacement. Cost was comparable to other props with experimentally measured higher drag, even if only marginally higher. Geoff at AB Marine very knowledgeable and helpful in prop selection--he is a New Zealander so don't say he has an English or Australian accent! Issues in reverse same as other geared, folding props. Enough forward force to drive my boat at hull speed. I service it at yearly haul-outs (inspect, clean, lubricate) and, like the Energizer bunny, it keeps on going and going, etc. No connection with company but a very satisfied customer. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Feb 19, 2018, at 9:39 PM, Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > > I have a Gori 2 blade and no, no issues. Fresh water boat though we (though > not i, yet) do get zebra mussels and algae etc. > Happy with it, forward and reverse. > Dave 33-2 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Feb 19, 2018, at 5:52 PM, Dennis C. wrote: >> >> OK, you all know I have a Martec on Touche' and, for the most part, am >> satisfied with it. However, if I did change, my inclination would be to >> replace it with a geared 2 blade folder. Especially since I think Martec >> doesn't make non-geared folders anymore. >> >> I have a SPECIFIC question for those who have a geared 2 blade folder. >> >> With your geared 2 blade folder, have any of you noticed a failure to fully >> open or close due to marine growth in the gears? >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Handicapping Sprite and/or pole. Was Adding asym sail/sprit to C&C 36
In NC-PHRF, you get a single rating which is based on your largest headsail/fastest kite with penalties if you have a sprit, oversized kite/jib > 155%, etc. and independent of race configuration (W-L, distance, etc.). If you choose not to race with your largest jib or your biggest kite, your rating remains the same. FWIW and as others have mentioned, your local handicapping organization determines how these issues are handled. Charlie Nelson 1995 C&C XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 1, 2018, at 8:25 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" > wrote: > > Hi Chuck > > I think that is a question you will have to ask your area handicap > association. In our area (Nova Scotia) and I believe in most other areas you > make a single declaration of inventory / rig for an entire season. In Nova > Scotia you would have to declare sprit/asym, pole/sym or both. Many areas > allow the use of an asym tacked centerline at bow in addition to standard > pole/sym spinnaker with no penalty. Adding the sprit in addition to the pole > setup incurs penalty adjustments based on how long the Total Sprit Length is > in relation to J. > > On the other hand if you were planning to enter a distance race the committee > for that race may allow you a different setup for that race or series. That > would likely be at the discretion of trace organizers > > Mike > Persistence > Halifax, NS > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S > via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 2:59 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Chuck S > Subject: Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C&C 36 > > Eric, > > Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the pole? > I'm considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed races. > > > On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List > wrote: > > That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declare both Asym on > sprit and Symmetrical on pole you will get a PHRF penalty. > > Eric > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C&C 36
Difficulties in finding enough crew to fly my masthead kite (~7-8) have me thinking of adding a sprit with asym kite to make it possible to be competitive in the spin fleet with less crew (~ 4-6). I only had 6 for our last race and the wind was 10-15 so we decided to forego the kite and took a 1st, 2nd and 3rd (only 3 boats competed). This weekend I am down to only 4 so probably won't compete, giving up a solid 2nd with a poss 1st if my crew were not in the BVI, etc. My thoughts are solely to have the option to use the asym if I don't have enough crew to do the symm Masthead kite so I would likely keep the asym size such that my rating is not changed. Thoughts on this plan from the list would be appreciated. I do realize that this is a complicated issue and I may have to get some expert advice on sprit length, asym sail size/shape not to mention figuring out how to fly it but I am starting with the collective list wisdom. Thanks, Charlie Nelson 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb (Rob Ball design) Water Phantom Sent from my iPhone ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB
1+ on cb issues although I have not moved from SS to dyneema. I have had my cb pennant break with the board up. With a weighted board, it is likely that if the pennant lets go you will not have to worry about raising it with winches, properly deployed lines, etc. Your board will hit the trunk with such force( ~ 1000 lbs falling ~ 5 ft) that as it pivots on its pin and then strikes the forward inside edge of the trunk, its momentum will be so high that the board will be destroyed and at best, you will be left with fiberglass shards, a broken pennant and hopefully the cb pin. Been there, done that although my original pennant did 'last' for ~ 16 yrs. I now replace it at 5 yr intervals whether it needs it or not--getting to it for inspection is so costly that once inspected, the cost of a new pennant and replacing it is only a small additional cost. FWIW Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 18, 2018, at 10:01 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List > wrote: > > Here's my take on the centerboard: > > We generally drop the board as soon as we are in deep enough water to ensure > we won't touch bottom. Here in West Florida, touching bottom is a real and > present danger as you go in & out of harbors, and even in the intracoastal. > To have anything more than 5' of draft here is far less than ideal, and will > limit your harbor choices. Our centerboard is very heavy, and not only > requires the winch to raise it, but the low-speed function is needed as it > reaches the top of the board travel. > > Our harbor fouls bottoms pretty quickly, but our board has never been stuck. > That said, the boat sat for =/- 7 years with very limited use in Marco Island > before we bought her, and we had to pry the centerboard down a little during > the survey. > > Our biggest concern is that of cable maintenance (which so far we have no > real experience with), and braking the cable, which could result in > centerboard damage or the inability to return to our dock until such time as > we found a way to pull it up with other lines & winches, which given the > shape of our board might prove problematic. > > Finally, she points like crazy with the board down! > > That said, little of this may apply to your prospect boat... > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis", Madiera Beach, FL > (847) 404-5092 (mobile) > bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net > > > From: jackbrennan via CnC-List > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: jackbrennan > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 6:11 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB > > You'll love the shallow draft in Florida. It opens the possibility of great > cruising that would be blocked to you with a 6-foot draft. > > It's increasingly common for centerboard owners to replace the ss cable and > Nicropress fitting with Amsteel Blue or a similar high-tech line of the same > diameter. > > On my current boat (not a C&C), I used an Amsteel Blue line for seven years > on the CB before replacing it in June. The rigger said I wasted my money; the > line was like brand-new. > > The line is secured to the CB by making an eye and putting a few wraps > through it. The tricky part is taping the line to the cable and easing it > through. > > Jack Brennan > Former C&C 25 > Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 > Tierra Verde, Fl. > > > > > > > > Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO > > > Original message > From: Sean Richardson via CnC-List > Date:01/16/2018 1:37 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: CnC-List > Cc: Sean Richardson > Subject: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB > > Calling on the collective C&C brain trust! > > I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any > advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of > the center board version if anyone has any. > > The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be > in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our > next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it > effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance. > > I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to > sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then > return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to > Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for > the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more > challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes? > > My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance. I would > assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean > marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. > And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with > the boat in the water? >
Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH
Be sure you know your transmission ratio, prop-hull clearance, ideal engine RPM, etc. before you rely on a simple calculation. This is a question that seems like it should have a simple answer but "...it depends on several other parameters.." so a simple answer could be wrong. If the Max-Prop allows, you might just change the pitch and see if the performance improves. Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 17, 2017, at 5:18 PM, Bunky via CnC-List wrote: > > Luna is a 1984 C&C 35 with a Yanmar 3gm30 engine. Does anyone know what the > proper propeller pitch should be? She has an aftermarket Maxiprop, and based > on engine performance, I believe the pitch may be set too high. > > Richard > Luna, Lake Champlain, VT > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 40 for sale
Revealing my ignorance or not, is your 40 the same as the 37/40? Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 9, 2017, at 10:22 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List > wrote: > > Good morning, all. My wife has a web site up to help sell Peregrine. > I think I have her priced very reasonably (Peregrine, not my wife...though, > come to think of it...no...just Peregrine). I would be interested in any > input from the assembled group. > I will be sorry to part with her, but the new boat has extra cabins for kids > and parents that my wife wants. I hate to leave the fold, though. Maybe > Danny, Bruno, and I can show up at rendezvous as sort of auxiliary C&Cs? > https://aburtonsailor.wixsite.com/peregrine > > Cheers > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Check stays for baby stay?
Great analysis of the forces on the various stays Chuck. When I ordered my C&C I liked the idea of so many ways to adjust my mast feeling it would be 'fast'. In practice not so much--getting a 155 around the baby stay chewed up the sail and was slow--not to mention temporarily removing the baby stay when going downwind with a kite. Although my mast is 'bendy'--definitely not an aluminum telephone pole, when my sailmaker(who in a former life crewed on an Americas Cup boat ) suggested that with spreaders that are perpendicular to the centerline (not swept aft) I could remove it, I agreed and took it off. Since my mast remains 'bendy', I did not remove the check stays which I rely on, with the adjustable back stay, to stabilize the mast fore and aft against 'pumping' in that plane. I am not an expert, naval architect, etc. and I think Rob Ball designed very fast boats, including the 37/40 and it's down-sized cousin, the 36 XR/XL/+ series of the early 90s. However, I also think that the baby stay and check stays may have been kept on the 36 XL (and maybe the 36+) as a marketing tool to entice novices like myself to believe that with all those stays, the boat should be faster than it's similarly sized racer/cruiser competitors of the time such as the Sabre 36-2 and others. In fact it probably is faster than those boats-- mine certainly is even without the baby stay. In any case, for the way and where I use my boat, any speed increase provided by the baby stay, even with a main designed for using a baby stay, is relatively marginal compared to the hassle of using it. My that's my story and I'm sticking to it--FWIW!! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 1, 2017, at 5:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote: > > I'll bite since I have owned a 34R now for 15 years with runners and > checkstays. They are a PITA. So is a Baby Stay and that's why you won't find > them on modern designs. Baby Stays went out of vogue in the 80's with most > designers except C&C who kept them longer than anyone else. To be honest, I > bought my boat because it had runners and checkstays and I wanted to learn > all I could about making a sailboat go fast. I don't regret it. > > Runners and Checkstays make a difference but I wouldn't add them to an > existing design. They complicate the mast with so many anchor points and the > deck too, requiring another set of winches or heavy duty purchases. Research > has shown me that the forces on the runner block and deck anchor point are > close to the breaking strength of the backstay. This requires large expensive > blocks and beefy anchor points on deck w heavy backing plates to spread the > loads properly. > > Harken has some great spreadsheets on this but if memory serves, my "end of > boom" mainsheet load is around 600# max. I have a 5:1 course with a 20:1 fine > tune. The halyards are 1500# max. The genoa sheet is about the same1500 to > 2000#. The #3 jib sheet in 40 knots of wind is 3000# plus. While the runner > is closer to 1#. > > BTW, the highest load for running gear for a typical sloop is the #3 jib > sheet in high winds. The highest load for a sailboat with a bowsprit will be > the bobstay, which is many times higher than the backstay. It's all physics. > >> On November 1, 2017 at 3:34 PM jacob fuerst via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Furthering the baby stay thread, has anyone considered replacing the baby >> stay with check stays? Still controls the mast pump, more versatile, >> adjustable from the cockpit, and it gets the baby stay out of they way. I >> could be way off base here. Thoughts? >> >> Jacob Fuerst >> 303-520-4669 >> Ventura, CA >> '78 C&C 36 >> ___ >> >> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. >> October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small >> contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution >> -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > ___ > > The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. > October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small > contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution > -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34
Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby stay to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary on your boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed in a Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely requires it you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if your spreaders are not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more like aluminum telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay notwithstanding. My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy mast. The spreaders are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever take her seriously off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the NC sounds and the PITA the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it for flying the kite, my sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and have never looked back. Now if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back on board for the SOLE reason of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to miss! Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory but in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast pumping fore and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in protected waters and have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod as well as the rolled up stay are kept on board anyway! FWIW Charlie Nelson 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List > wrote: > > My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then > attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth > area. I don't have a track on mine. > > If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a lot > of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's left if > there really is a wood stringer in there. Im not sure how much glass I would > need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be. > > I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded > together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass? > > Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in > the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do. > > Thanks, > Kevin > >> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and >> dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would >> serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look >> around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a >> new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo. >> >> (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line >> in v berth. >> >> 2 cents >> >>> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> Chuck, et al, >>> >>> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming >>> that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that >>> is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the >>> keel” means. >>> >>> With the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that >>> the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod >>> descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to >>> the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The >>> load is not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler >>> track. >>> >>> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I >>> recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does. >>> >>> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to >>> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water. >>> >>> Hope this helps. >>> >>> Best, >>> Dave Godwin >>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin >>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay >>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit >>> On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: Fred, I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the keel. I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794 That's how it is on my 34R. On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer. A short piece of rod carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer. I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, M ___ The bills have s
Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others
Agree that in light air the windward sheeting Harken traveler car has difficulties. I love the swivel idea at the track ends. Currently both my main sheet(s) (I have a 6:1 plus a 4:1 for 24:1 when it's really blowing) AND the car on top of each other and the windward sheeting car has the cleat mounted on it for the traveller. I can not reach any of this from behind the wheel. Adding swivels would un-clutter the car and allow the helm or someone forward in the cockpit to do the traveler. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 13, 2017, at 12:37 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" > wrote: > > Hi Gary > > The loads on the main sheet and traveler on the 115 are normally pretty high. > When it was windy and gusty we would often have one person on traveler and > another on the sheet. I believe Koobalibra did have a windward sheeting car > but am not certain as it has been nearly two years since we raced on that > boat. However I think it would have been nice to have even if expensive on > the 115. > > Does the 115 you race on have the 2:1 purchase on the main sheet? Do you > find leeward roundings a LOT of work for the main trimmer? > > Mike > Persistence > Halifax > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary > Nylander via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 12:48 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Gary Nylander > Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others > > I agree about it being overrated, unless you have a real tender boat where > the crew has to be on the rail at all times. I put one on my 30-1 and it was > almost useless in our light air conditions. The wind was often too light to > allow the windward sheeting capability to work. I am racing on a C&C 115 and > it is pretty much the same. > > I blocked my car off and put blocks and cam cleats at the ends of the > traveler. As the main trimmer is in the middle of the boat most times, it > works better. My traveler is on the companionway area shelf and spans the > full width of the cockpit. > > Gary > #593 > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. > Wolford via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 9:29 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Matthew L. Wolford > Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others > > I had a windward sheeting car on my 34 and believe they’re overrated. Just > my two cents. > > From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 10:32 PM > To: Dennis C. via CnC-List > Cc: Marek Dziedzic > Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others > > If you decide on Harken, go for the “windward sheeting” traveler car. As they > say in their ads, once you raced with one, you would never go back. > > If you are cost conscious, go for Garhauer; there is hardly better value (not > to mention that they usually bend over backwards to accommodate your needs). > > Marek > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Dennis C. via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 18:55 > To: CnClist > Cc: Dennis C. > Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others > > When looking at "ball bearing" traveler and genoa car systems (as opposed to > pin stop or slide track), design is a factor. While some use T-track, others > use X-track. Some use recirculating ball bearings, others use wheels. > > The design has a LOT to do with how the system handles loads. I think that's > why Harken is so well regarded. While other brands may be good, my opinion > is Harken's design handles the loads better, and therefore moves easier than > others. Just my opinion. Whether the ease of movement is worth the price > premium, well, that's your choice. > > All I'm saying is look closely at the design. Find and ask owners of > different systems. Hopefully, one can find owners who have or have had > different brands and systems so you get an apples to apples comparison. > > For instance, Touche's Harken traveler seems to move easier than Touche's > Lewmar genoa cars. Just saying. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > wrote: > It is good to remember when discussing this that Harken track is measured in > millimeters rather than inches (usually 22mm, 27mm, 32mm). Other cars do not > fit on Harken track properly and likely vice versa. > > I did contact Garhaur about new genoa lead cars for Persistence on the > existing track (22mm small boat track 3.6m in length). They said they could > not do it (would not?). Would have had to be custom. > > In the end I came across a good deal on the mid range genoa cars and track > ends (27mm) and had to purchase separately the aft track ends and new tracks > (the ones that came with my new gear were only 1m long and I needed 3.6m). > Replaced tracks (PITA) and cars with the
Re: Stus-List Anyone in Oriental to look at a boat?
Be there on Saturday to work on my boat so could have a look. Just let me know which boat/broker if I need to get inside. Charlie Nelson Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 11, 2017, at 9:41 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" > wrote: > > Joe > Coquina > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Landfall 42 sails
As one who spent about 85% of your 3 sail quote for 1 North 3Di 155% headsail, I am blown away that you can get 3 for what you were quoted !!! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 29, 2017, at 3:09 PM, Gary Smith via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hi All, > > I am in the process of acquiring a new set of sails. > > I've had North & Ullman give me quotes and they are within US$70 of each > other for all three sails - furling headsail, furling staysail and main for > their basic offers. The quoted prices are in the range of $6,600 for all > three sails. > > One of them offered an alternative at $8,200 which had "better" material for > the headsail and staysail options. > > As I am a novice sailor I need some assistance please... > > The original sail area according to Sailboatdata.com > (http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2144) is as follows: > > Original > Main318 ft2 / 29.5 m2 > Foresail 391 ft2 / 36.3 m2 > > I don't have details on the size of the original Staysail. > > Here are the sail area values from the 2 vendors. > > Vendor 1 > Main335 ft2 / 31.2 m2 > Foresail 558 ft2 / 51.8 m2 > > Vendor 2 > Main335 ft2 / 31.1 m2 > Foresail 466 ft2 / 43.3 m2 > > Although the area of the main from both vendors is similar to the original, > the shape of the main is different to the original (not the current). The > boom is shorter and mast (P) is longer than the original. > > The original design has a VERY short foresail track which is well aft with > the resultant foresail with a high clew as can be seen from the picture at > the link. What worries me is that both vendors are offering a foresail which > is significantly larger than the original. How would this impact on > performance? Will I have the foresail partially furled most of the time? > > The original staysail was a self-tacking, club-footed jib. The proposal from > one vendors calls for a new track to be installed roughly midships and the > other believes that I can sheet from an existing padeye. Both propose > sheeting on the inside of the shrouds. > > Both, in discussion, are advocating the headsail for reaching and the > staysail for beating and heavy weather. > > I should add that I intend cruising although a little performance certainly > wouldn't go amiss :-). > > Are there any Landfall 42 owners who could share the details of their sail > configurations? > > Thanks > Gary > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
I would not try to sail with the board hanging down supported only by the pin. The trunk usually provides resistance to athwart ship forces on the board when down in its normal position. If the cable is gone, the board hangs too far down and all the sideways force is concentrated on the pin which is not designed for it. Motoring would be OK but sailing with an unsupported (sideways) board could turn an inconvenience into a disaster, including loss of board and pin! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hello all, > > I have a C&C 33 with a drop keel. Today as I was going to drop the keel, > from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack. After diving > underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. >My assumption is 2 things: Either the cable broke, or the pin that the > cable attaches to has broken. > > I have a few questions: > > 1. Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver? Not a great option > to pull locally without demasting. > 2. If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by > sailing as is for a bit? I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel > from droppiing too far? > 3. If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, > does any one have specs on that connection or pictures? > > Thanks, > > Donald > > Louisville, KY > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations
After 20+ years my battery boxes were in pretty sad shape. The tie downs were fine underneath them and I use AGM Northstar Group 31? Batteries. Pitched the worthless battery boxes, tied each battery down to the tie downs and sailed on. With secure tie downs and AGM batteries, see no need for battery boxes. Am I missing something--should I get new boxes? Charlie Nelson C&C 36XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > What is the exact requirement for a battery box? Not "good practices" but > specific requirements? Battery boxes are always so bulky and inefficient. > But a glassed in plywood box can be made to fit very exacting and efficient > spaces. > Alternatively you could just do AGM 6v golf cart batteries. > > Both main and aux battery banks were installed under the starboard dinette > seat of my boat. 200 Ah forward and 400 Ah aft. There's few other places to > put them. > > The prospects of lithium technology are very encouraging. Near 100% > charge/discharge efficiency. Lightweight. Energy dense. Maybe just drag > your feet on this project until the price comes down and the boat kitty has > grown. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C&C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > On Wed, Jan 25, 2017, 5:30 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: > I am thinking of switching over to golf cart batteries and am going nuts > trying to figure out where to put them. I think 2 might maybe fit the > standard battery compartment, but they might be too high. No way 4 fit in > there. Also that is not including the battery containers, which are needed > for wet cells. I also think I have enough extra weight on that side already > with the water tank. > > I have thought of: > > Starboard under the dinette seat up by the mast: Lots of room, but lots of > wire to run and that brings acid and fumes right under someone’s head/butt. > Good side is the weight is in the near-ideal place. > > In the port cockpit locker: Pretty good place with short wire runs, but maybe > not the best place for the weight. Also obviously takes away from useful > storage. > > Starboard cockpit locker someplace: This is the good side of the boat for > weight, but low down near the engine blocks access I use all the time to work > on the back end of the engine. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks! > > Joe > > Coquina > > C&C 35 MK I > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements
I may be wrong but I think the 37/40 always had an option of a CB. Before I ordered my 34/36 XL in 1993 I was shown the CB on a 37/40 by the salesman at the Annapolis Boat show as an example of what it would look like on my boat after it was built. The 37 was significantly beyond my price range but it was shown at the show that year IIRC. At that time, when I knew relatively little about C&C sailboats, it and my 36 XL 'clone' were the ONLY production models that offered a CB--Sabre's and Tartans offered only wing 'keels' for skinny water sailing. Having raced on wing keels I watched as most non-wing keel boats killed us to weather and vowed NEVER to own one. In fact, I am pretty certain that the mechanical design of my CB is identical to that perfected on the 37--perhaps scaled back to maintain similar sailing parameters on the smaller LOA of the 36, which is actually 35.5 LOA--whereas I think the 37 is more like 39.5 LOA (trying to use the same scale factor that C&C marketing did when I ordered a 34 and accepted a 36 both of which had the same LOA!--go figure.) While I have since learned about the superior sailing qualities of our C&Cs and still love my boat 22 years later, I purchased her because I wanted to sail well to weather and when I put her away in NC, she had to be able to get into a 5 ft. deep slip. A CB was the only option then--lifting keels (IMHO then and now expensive mechanical/hydraulic one-off engineering nightmares) in 35 footers were a thing of the future. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Jan 4, 2017, at 5:30 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List > wrote: > > I looked at it also...very nice boat, I wasn't aware that a centerboard was > an option for the 37+ series...; I would be interested in a follow up report > after you've had the boat for a while...hope the survey turns out well for > you. > > Richard > S/V Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; > Richard N. Bush > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 > 502-584-7255 > > > -Original Message- > From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List > To: cnc-list > Cc: Mark Baldridge > Sent: Wed, Jan 4, 2017 3:21 pm > Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements > > Tom, > > I looked at the boat about when the photos were taken and prior to the > listing going up. The backstay is currently disconnected while the hydraulics > are out being rebuilt. They are currently tied off to the stern pulpit. If > you look close at the main picture you can see attachment point next to where > the hydraulic line exits the deck. > > I assume that this is standard. > > Thanks, > Mark > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s
At one time, it was owned by a retired USMC Harrior pilot who I knew as Fitz, I think after his last name Fitzgerald? He kept it at Hancock Creek YC on Cherry Point MCAS. FWIW, Charlie Nelson Sent from my iPad > On Aug 21, 2016, at 10:09 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > wrote: > > Sayuri used to be in a lot of the “fun” races, like the Oriental Cup and > Dragon’s Breath, in the Oriental area. I think it belonged to a couple named > Tom and Stacy, seem to recall they kept the boat in Minesott Beach, and that > they were in NYRA. Maybe Charlie Nelson knows who owns the boat. > > Rick Brass > Washington, NC > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails > via CnC-List > Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 8:46 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: jtsails > Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s > > I looked around my marina and we have a 30-1 named “Sayuri”, 1973 number 135. > I don’t know who owns it, never seen anyone on it, but it’s at the opposite > end of the marina from me. > James > Delaney > C&C 38 mk 2 > Oriental, NC > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging
Ahhh the vortices! Only relatively recently were these observed in experiments done on 'bumble bee' flight. IIRC, they were shown to be a significant source of lift for these large bees, without which they either could not fly or certainly not fly as well as they do! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 25, 2016, at 8:08 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List > wrote: > > This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena > caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and > occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and > there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and induce > vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually > reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the internet. > > Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips, and > many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings. I believe > this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel > mileage. > > Don Wagner > C&C 41 CB > Der Baron > West River MD > > > > -Original Message- From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List > Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Christian Tirtirau > Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging > > Hello fellow seers, > I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while > on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a > generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the > strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of that > without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower that > is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but does not > go away. > Cheers, > Christian Tirtirau > C&C 37 Northern Light > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List wind data snafu
Any coil of wire/generator can have large induced current/voltage if near a lightning strike which produces a very large EMF field locally. This field propagates out from the strike (following ~ 1/r law) inducing currents in any nearby motor/generator/etc. Of course, the induced current/voltage is temporary but can be very large. This is why most motors in the vicinity of strikes are destroyed--garage openers, washers and dryers, etc. This could be the problem with your wind instrument. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36XL/kcb (also a semi-retired physicist) Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 22, 2016, at 5:17 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hello gang...just got to boat and wind data and depth was gone on my B&G IS40 > system. I checked connection to backbone and all tight. Now here is the > first suspect issue: when I disconnect the connector from the cups/vane to > the backbone, the depth data is displayed correctly. Plug the wind > instrument back in, and poof! Depth data displays no data again. > > Sounds suspiciously like a problem with my generator on the sending unit? > But why when I connect it again, the depth data is lost. All else > (autopilot, Triton 7 Chartplotter, engine, etc) is functioning properly. > > We had thunderstorms in the area this week...hope not connected with > lightning!!?? > > Anyone up to pointing me in a direction? > > > Chuck Saur > 35-3 Morning Sky > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Back Stay Adjuster
The piston seals likely need replaced. Take it to a local hydraulic shop to be 'rebuilt' for a few boat bucks and reinstall for another 30 yrs. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Jul 16, 2016, at 9:07 PM, John McKay via CnC-List > wrote: > > My 33 MK II has a Navtec Model IA 7 - 10 back stay adjuster. > > I was out today and notic3d the fore stay kept sagging. I would pump the > adjuster to tension it and in a few minutes it would release. > > I suspect this is original equipment on a 30 year old boat. > > I am wondering if others with this vintage boat have experienced this and if > there is a fix? > > I am in Sarnia Ontario. Are there any repair depots in Ontario I can talk to? > > If you replaced the adjuster, what did you buy? > > Has anyone tried to replace with a couple of Harken blocks? > > As always, thanks for any response. > > John on Enterprise > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Fairing an elliptical rudder
Other than original build files or copies from the Kingston Museum, you might try Computer Keels for the proper NACA chord shapes for various vertical depths of your rudder. If the fore-aft distance is not much different from top to bottom of your rudder, a single template at ~ $75 is all you should need. They supplied templates for my centerboard trunk which my yard used to do the fairing over 2 separate haul-outs. Did the forward half of the trunk 1st and the next year did the aft section. Lots of lead removed/fiberglass added but Water Phantom is faster and now reaches the same speed on either tack--a good thing compared to before the fairing. YMMV since the rudder is a relatively minor (compared to the keel) perturbation to the underwater lift/flow. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hi, > I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. > Where might I find information on the lines of this rudder? > > Cheers, Al > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Solar power controllers
I am about to hook up a Morningstar Sun Guard SG-4 controller between a solar panel and my battery #1. My plan is to use the NC sun to keep my starting battery topped off between races without using the battery charger/AC although if I am on board, I will use the charger. My question for the list is will the Solar controller be damaged if I switch the battery charger on while the solar unit is still connected to the battery? My SWAG is that it is protected against such events with a diode but I prefer a confirmation of this before it happens. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Whisker pole?
Main advantage IMHO is weight. I don't remember the difference between carbon and aluminum for the same pole but it is substantial. This makes it easier to use, extend, handle plus it probably will not kill you if it falls on your head when the topping lift is mishandled by your crew. Since it is so light, it is also easy to put below out of the sun and hang from the overhead hand rails. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On May 19, 2016, at 10:51 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > The carbon is twice the price and would need protection from UV. It better > be one hell of an improvement. > > Josh > > On May 19, 2016 3:48 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" > wrote: > Josh, > > I have an old line-control whisker pole on the Enterprise, which lives on the > deck. When we’ve raced with it, it took a couple of guys on the foredeck to > set up and some coordination with the jib trimmer to get the end close to the > clew of the sail while extending. I suppose a mast-mount option would make it > easier (having one end fixed) but it will still be a lot of weight to work > with when setting. If you have the funds (and we all know you do), go with > the carbon version, as someone suggested. > > I don’t think I’ve ever tried to use the pole when cruising (usually all my > destinations are directly upwind when cruising - a Murphy’s Law thing). > > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Starship Enterprise > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > City Island, NY > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log > > > > > > > > > > > > On 5/19/2016 12:39 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > I'm considering a Forespar Line Control whisker pole (LC 13-24) for my > C&C 37+. I'd like to use the mast mounted storage option as well. I > would be poling out a 145% furling headsail and an asymmetric spinnaker. > Does anyone have any thoughts? > > Thanks, > > Josh Muckley > S /V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > ___ > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Lightning protection by design?
After you have done what has been suggested, you have taken all 'reasonable' precautions to minimize the chances of serious damage from a strike IMHO. I don't think it is possible to reduce these chances to zero, no matter what precautions you take--a strike contains so much energy/second that it could destroy any bonding before it is over or overwhelm it and thus jump to any nearby object, metal or plastic, grounded or not. A tree in my back yard took a direct strike awhile back and did not explode or burn--it just died and had to be taken down. However, EVERY motor in my nearby house was destroyed by the EMP produced by the strike-washing machine, dryer, garage door opener, etc. Seamanship to avoid t-storms, luck and insurance are your last and maybe the only resorts you have when out in such weather. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Apr 28, 2016, at 9:47 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List > wrote: > > Chuck, > > I think you have a solid connection to ground. I wouldn’t worry about a > thing. If lightning hits and goes down the mast to the keel, you’re still > having a pretty bad day. > > Jake > > Jake Brodersen > C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” > Hampton VA > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur > via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2016 09:54 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Chuck Saur > Subject: Stus-List Lightning protection by design? > > Hello gang. Thinking of warm weather and reading the great article on > lightning protection by Glen Miller (thank you whoever sent the link). I > could absorb most of the intent, although some of the detail was a little > over my head. One of the most critical points he made was to connect the mast > to the keel for lightning to smoothly exit, and maintain other avenues for > exit as well (chain plates, etc.). Here is the site again: > > http://waeshael.com/waeshael.com/Propane_and_Lightning_files/Lightning.pdf > > Now here is the question. My 35-3 has a keel bolt directly under the mast, > and the mast is stationed within an aluminum tray. Direct metal to metal > contact. So...by design, is this already a head start on proper grounding? > My keel, (like everyone else's?) has a thin sheath of glass around the metal > of the keel, but does this suffice? Hm...should I feel safer? > > Seems the chainplates and toerail need connecting to ground, but did C&C > design help us out here? I always approached this topic with confusion, and > trying to get it figured out... > > > > Chuck Saur > Morning Sky > C&C 35-3 > Somewhere in the Straits... > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Sliding hatch details
It appears that my sliding hatch is leaking--water drips from if when it rains, etc. After 21 years and multiple wire runs for instruments, etc., etc. I no longer remember how this hatch was in its original, non-leaking state. Currently it simply slides on 1 x 2" teak (?) boards which are mounted on the coach roof under the 'cover' of both the sliding and fixed hatch. Water is presumably to flow off both hatches thru limber holes in this cover to the coach roof. Initially there may have been guides attached to the teak boards but these may have either disintegrated or been destroyed over the years per para above. My question for the list, esp. 1990 and later C&C 36 XL, R or + models is does your sliding hatch have guides to keep the sliding plexi/lexan hatch 'centered' on the teak boards and/or is there something else that is part of the sliding hatch assembly that prevents water ingress. Thanks Charlie Nelson 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom Noted Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Hull color
Water Phantom came from the factory (1995) with a painted Flag Blue hull, thrown into the deal since hull damage during the C&C factory fire delayed her delivery by about a year. After ~ 16 years she was looking tired so I bit the bullet and had the yard repaint with Awlgrip. I struggled with the color since the original color was so dark as to look black. Of course, since she was painted initially I had little choice but to paint her again. I decided on Aristo Blue which was a lighter blue and am happy with the result. The yard painter was very particular--and in this situation that is definitely a good thing! I was talked out of a white bottom by him as 'too much trouble to keep looking good' and went with black for her bottom. Not cheap but I am happy with the result, even though a painted hull practically requires a yearly polish and wax job. I refer to it as my 'penance' for buying a painted boat! As a plaque I saw on a boat a few years ago noted, "Life is too short to sail an ugly boat" and a tired painted boat looks much more ugly than a tired white boat. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Sun protection for headsails.
An alternative to adding various sun covers on roller furled sails is to use a sleeve from ATN or a local canvas shop. This one cover will provide protection for ANY furled headsail so you need only add it once for the the boat. Probably costs more initially than a sewn on cover but it protects ALL your headsails. Hoist over the furled sail with a spinnaker halyard, zipping the cover closed as it rises up the sail. When fully hoisted, tighten the external control lines (a pair producing a 'diagonal' pattern like a Chinese finger toy) and tie off. To reduce windage and possible noise to your dock mates, wrap another halyard spirally around it and tie it off. I have used one for many years while club racing. If I was more of a cruiser, I might go for a sewn on solution for my most used sail. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Hatch/companion way water leaks
Over the years between wear and tear and various instrument/wiring (mis) adventures, my sliding hatch has, I think, lost the guides that kept it in line as it slides over the fixed port light just forward and below it. (Excuse my lack of nautical terms please.) Anyway, and more importantly, this sliding hatch now leaks like a sieve when it rains and it is 'closed'--that is slid aft to the vertical hatch board. Since whatever used to be there to both guide the sliding hatch and direct water away has long since disappeared, I am at a loss on both what to add as guides and where they should attach, etc. It looks like the entire fiberglass 'cover' over both the sliding hatch and fixed port light needs removed in order to replace these 'guides', and this cover is attached with what looks like a 100 screws. Before I begin this disassembly, I'd like to know what was likely in place for these guides and what to replace them with and where to attach them. I do not think the guides were part of the sliding hatch itself but were attached to the boards (port and starboard) that the hatch slides on. Any guidance from the list would be helpful. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole
Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom North Carolina Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List > wrote: > > Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”: > > http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/ > > Fred Street -- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > >> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in >> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is >> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating >> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the >> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside >> of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed. >> >> FWIW >> >> Charlie Nelson >> Water Phantom >> North Carolina >> >> cenel...@aol.com > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install
So if one is club racing under PHRF with a racer-cruiser C&C 36 XL (non-planing for sure!), does adding a sprit and asymmetric kite improve its performance relative to a mast head symmetrical kite assuming no change in its PHRF rating? I gather from the list over the years that for round the buoy racing at least there is no appreciable gain in performance. I can appreciate that in distance races and perhaps triangle courses it may provide a speed advantage at some apparent wind angles but am not convinced that it provides an advantage for W-L courses. What say the list? Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Oct 28, 2015, at 9:48 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote: > > Dennis, Pete, > Does Selden require backing plates under the deck for the ring and outer > Wichard padeye? > > And how far out should it extend? I thought I needed 5 ft for my 36 footer > but the Selden guy at the boat show said 3 feet was enough. He added a > longer pole would be beneficial if I was having an oversized sail made for > it, similar to what J-boats carry. (how much do you want to spend?) > > Chuck > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > From: "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: "Pete Shelquist" > Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 9:25:36 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install > > Good write up Dennis – > I installed one and sailed with it in the 2014 season. I would add a couple > items to your review; > 1. Watch the diameter of sprit. If one has a roller furler, you’ll > need clearance between it and the deck > 2. In a blow, there is a lot of lift on the front deck fitting. > Careful review of the deck should be done in case reinforcement is needed. I > noticed weakening in the area even with the addition of a bobstay. > > Thanks, > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. > via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:25 PM > To: CnClist > Cc: Dennis C. > Subject: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install > > Installed a Selden sprit kit on a Peterson 37 today. Interesting piece of > equipment. Simple design but effective. > > Essentially a big ring that mounts on the bow, a sprit pole that slides > in/out through the ring and a couple folding padeyes that the rear fiiting > clips onto in the retracted or extended position. The tack line passes > through the pole exiting through each of the end fittings. The base of the > ring is offset so you can mount the ring closer to center line while the pole > extends to one side of the forestay. We had to make a StarBoard base to lift > the ring a bit so the sprit pole would clear a tack fitting. Simple install. > took about 3 hours. > > Couple things to watch out for. First, the kits are offered in several > diameters. As one might expect, the larger diameter kits have longer allowed > extension beyond the ring for bigger boats. Be sure to order one large > enough to get the extension you need. Second, check with your local handicap > organization about penalties and exactly how and where to measure the > extended dimension. Third, if your headsail is a deck sweeper and is tacked > low to the deck and the foot is low to the deck, you may have to have the > tack cut a bit to go over the sprit (about 4 inches off the deck on one side > of the forestay). > > The kit comes with 2 folding padeyes. However, you can install more at > different distances to allow the sprit to extend different distances from the > bow or measure point. > > The sprit can be easily removed and stowed below. This is good for boats > with an anchor locker since the lid to the locker would be pinned under the > sprit. > > Installation was straightforward once you figure out the different > measurements. > > We installed this one so it retracted clear of the head sail tack point. > That way, the head sail tack snap shackle didn't rub on the sprit when going > upwind. > > I have one picture of the finished install if anyone is interested. > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows
Life seal has sealed up some of my hardware admirably. OTOH, I find it impossible to keep the it off of stuff I don't want sealed and a PITA to clean up. Maybe I just need to suffer its failings and appreciate its advantages. Charlie Nelson Sent from my iPad > On Oct 21, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Guess I was kinda hinting why people don't use LifeSeal to install the newer > ports. :) > > Glad to see it works. > > Dennis C. > >> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 6:16 PM, David via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Funny story about re-bedding windows and may shed a bit of light on >> adhesive choices. >> >> Bought the bought in East Greenwich, RI. Soon after the purchase I stopped >> in on the way to the airport to pat the New Love on her behind. For >> whatever reason in the process I popped out a window! Holy Shite. I am in >> a suit. I have a flight and the damned window popped out! Run up to >> Brewers store and ask for an adhesive. They gave me Life-Seal. No >> questions asked I head back to the boat and plunk the window back in without >> too much fuss or mess. Don't know how I did it under pressure whilst >> nattily dressed and making my flight but I did. >> >> Damned thing hasn't leaked since that spring of 2005. >> >> So when I re-bed my new ports...guess what I am using. >> >> David F. Risch >> (401) 419-4650 (cell) >> >> >> Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2015 15:20:45 -0400 >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows >> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> CC: dainyr...@icloud.com >> >> >> I have owned my LF 38 for over 30 years now. I have done the Plexus repair >> twice--so, I have been through 3 sets of windows (if you include the >> originals) within probably the first 20 years. Because of my frustration >> with Plexus, I designed and built stainless steel frames for my boat, using >> 3/8-inch thick cast acrylic, and a flexible GE sealant, and they have lasted >> about 10 years without any leakage whatsoever. I did not try SIKA but I >> know it is a good product (have used it elsewhere) and I expect that it >> would work fine too. I think the Plexus is simply too rigid for a flexing >> boat like our C&C's--I would like to see how anyone can get any flexibility >> out of it. (Perhaps each of our boats have different flexibilities--so, I >> am speaking of my LF38). >> >> I agree that Lexan would scratch easier than polycarbonate. >> >> I read Don Casey's article and I have to wonder if he really knows what he >> is doing...or if he is talking about smaller windows in other boats. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On Oct 21, 2015, at 1:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: >> >> Hi Paul, >> I agree that 1/4" is too thin. The other 37+ at my club has 5/16" It >> amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the >> design. I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic. But then again... >> >> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less >> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic). You are probably trading one >> problem for another. >> >> As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn. The write-up in the >> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the bond >> thickness is large enough. To that end he added glass beads to the adhesive >> to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030". >> >> Thoughts, anyone? >> >> Gary >> S/V High Maintenance >> '90 C&C 37 Plus >> East Greenwich, RI, USA >> >> ~~~_/)~~ >> >> >> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 10:56 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Gary, >> >> I am surprised that you have 1/4” acrylic. To have the strength acrylic >> should be more like 3/8”. >> >> Are you sure you don’t have 1/4” polycarbonate? >> >> I recently replaced all of the fixed ports on my LF38 using 1/4” Makrolon >> (abrasion & UV resistance polycarbonate), 3M VHB tape, and Dow 795. >> >> I have pictures and a discussion of the process at: >> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts >> >> Paul >> >> - >> Paul E. >> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall >> S/V Johanna Rose >> Carrabelle, FL >> >> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ >> >> On Oct 21, 2015, at 8:08 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >> >> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2015 21:16:09 -0400 >> From: Gary Russell >> To: "C&C List" >> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows >> Message-ID: >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on High Maintenance >> (1990 C&C 37 Plus). The windows have been replaced before (not original) >> and are currently 1/4" acrylic. Is that the right thickness? I've seen in >> some places references to 3/8" windows. So were the original windows 1/4" >> or 3/8"? >> >> Thanks, >> Gary >> s/V High Maintenance >> '90 C&C 37 Plus >> East Greenwich, RI, USA >> >> >> ___ >> >> Email
Re: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem
If your winches have seen a lot of use, I suggest you have them knurled. Mine (Lewmar STs #30 and #50) had ~ 15 years of use and I had them re-knurled with a simple vertical 'scoring' pattern of 'medium' harshness for $30 each. Too much 'harshness' will chew up your line. They now hold as if new although in a breeze we always use more wraps. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Oct 5, 2015, at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > Knurling is the process by which texture is given to metal. Usually metal > handles of wrenches and hammers or other tools will be knurled with a > cross-hatched pattern. There are lots of options and harshnesses which can > be chosen by the machinist. > > I'm not particularly familiar with the best line for friction but I would > start with something cheap like stay-set. With a little work you can > probably bury the end nearest the clew. I probably wouldn't sleeve the whole > line since it seems you'd loose some or all of the advantage of the new > high-tech line. Since the sleeve and original jib sheet will have different > elasticities I would consider allowing the sheet to "float" at the tailing > end...just a thought. > > The machine shop I use is in Lusby, MD and right around the corner from my > house. The guy is extremely knowledgeable and runs a great business out of > his garage. He calls the place "Machine Shop". His name is Harry Langly an > goes by HL. Email him at marsurl...@comcast.net or call at (410) 326-2001. > Email might be better since he had an accident years ago that affects his > voice. > > Josh > >> On Oct 5, 2015 10:30 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" >> wrote: >> Hi Josh- great info! >>> On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>> David, >>> >>> The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap >>> screw. You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with >>> tef-gel, or anti-seeze. If they get stuck they break. If they are over >>> torqued they break. If they are not fully tightened or the springs are old >>> or the line is too small of a diameter then line won't stay in. >>> >>> As long a the above three conditions are met then the problem you are >>> having is with the friction on the drum. It sounds like those three >>> conditions are met since you only experienced this problem in heavy winds. >>> As mentioned extra wraps should help add friction. Additionally a machine >>> shop can re-knurl the drum. You can also add a sleeve to the jib sheet. >>> If you have the crew to do so, try having them not use the self-tailer to >>> winch in on the tacks. See how much pressure the tailer needs to apply >>> before the winch slips. The tailer should only have to apply moderate >>> tension. If they are really pulling you need another wrap (or 2). If you >>> have 4 or 5 wraps and the winch still slips then you need more friction. >>> Sleeving the sheet is probably a little cheaper and will make the line >>> better on the hand. You can also do it yourself. If you still find that >>> it takes 4 or more wraps I would start looking for a machine shop. I have >>> one in mind if you are interested. >>> >> We had 4 wraps on the drum so I am thinking friction on the drum. I don’t >> know what re-knurling means and don’t know if any shop would know how to do >> this. Also, I have not found a good machine shop in my area. What shop did >> you have in mind? What would you sleeve the sheet with? Dave >> >>> Josh Muckley >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> 1989 C&C 37+ >>> Solomons, MD >>> >>> ___ >> >> Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Interior Cushions
Run, don't walk, to a local Upholstry shop with your original foam and get an estimate. This is likely to save you money but even if it doesn't you would have an idea of the cost without a 'marine' label. You might also consider using Ultrasuede/Ultraleather or some other fabric that is mold resistant. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Sep 16, 2015, at 6:17 PM, Al Serrato via CnC-List > wrote: > > I have a 1981 C & C '34 with original cushions. I recently got an estimate > from a local marine canvas shop for replacement of all the fabric (retaining > the original foam) using the lowest cost sunbrella material. I was surprised > to see it was over $4000 for the job, and over $6000 to replace the foam as > well. > > I would appreciate any suggestions for alternative ways to go on upgrading > the interior upholstery. > > Thanks in advance. > > Al Serrato > Fidelity > San Francisco Bay > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Sucking air
In addition to all the other possibilities, keep in mind that your pick- up tube determines the remaining fuel amount. If it only goes down to 1/4 tank, you are empty no matter what any gauge tells you. Don't ask me how I know but I learned this more than once! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Cockpit drain/scupper screens
I am trying to find replacement screens for the cockpit drains on my 1995 XL/kcb--built in the Canadian plant between 1993-1995. It is plastic, 2 5/16" in diameter and white. It is not a Forespar model and my internet searches have not turned up anything identical. Does anyone on the list know where C&C may have sourced these--screen and drain? Thanks, Charlie Nelson Water Phantom Sent from my iPad ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage
I bought a Forte spinnaker pole ~ 8-10 years ago. At that time it was significantly less than the Forespar and IMHO wound on a mandrel and stronger. A few years later they made a custom adjustable whisker pole for me since I insisted I wanted a duplicate to the equivalent aluminum pole regarding the diameters of the outer and inner poles. I have no connection to the company and don't even know if it still makes such things. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On May 4, 2015, at 5:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote: > > I want a whisker pole! > > > From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Sent: Saturday, May 2, 2015 7:37:51 PM > Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage > > We have 2 poles on the boat now, the spinnaker pole and the whisker pole. > > The spin pole is stored as per the original C&C design: A half loop built > into the bow pulpit fore and a 3 inch shaft sticking out of a stanchion mount > aft. The forward jaw securely grabs the loop and the aft end just slips onto > the shaft. A simple and secure setup. It's right above the rail. > > For the whisker pole I sort of copied the design. I have 2 stanchion mounted > furler line fair Leeds and a stainless U bolt that screws into the holes > where the line would go. That's mounted on the bow pulpit and I have a > Forespar stanchion mount on the aft part. I like that on both sides the pole > end jaw is closed on a rigidly mounted loop. This way no matter what there's > no chance of a 1000.00 $ + pole slipping to Davy Jones' locker. > > In both cases it's right above the rail and does not interfere in any way. > > Btw. The Forespar telescopic whisker pole is awesome. The fact that the > length is adjustable from the mast end is a terrific feature. You shorten it > to less than the J for gibes, it extends to about 22 ft for wing on wing. It > works well for reaching when pointed straight forward (almost at the forestay > ) or shortened and set to leeward for the mother of barber haulers effect. > > -Francois Rivard > 1990 34+ 'Take Five' > Lake Lanier, Ga > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Internal Outhaul
My 36 XL/kcb has an identical system and is led to cam cleats above companion way-winch not required which makes for quick adjustments. PITA to get to-- attach messenger line to aft end of boom out haul line and pull mast end of system thru. You will probably find the purchase system terminates with shackle attached inside boom near mast. Remove this shackle and you get the whole system out. Biggest issue for me was determining proper length of final short line to mainsail clew. Too long and the 4:1 system 'two blocks' itself with the system blocks coming together before they tension out haul. Too short and the final out haul line to the clew can't be tied off. Not run correctly or twisted during installation and you end up with a FUBAR. Recommend trial and error starting with longer line to get proper length. No need to run the out haul line to a winch when you already have 4:1, assuming that the pit has reasonable leverage on it. Originally (as delivered) this 4:1 system was part of a 6:1 main sheet purchase which allowed either 6:1 or 24:1 adjustments. When I re-rigged my main sheet with a Harken 6:1/24:1 purchase, I used the 4:1 in the boom as described above for my out haul, eliminating the need in heavy air for leading it to a winch. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C XL/kcb 1995 Sent from my iPhone > On May 3, 2015, at 5:29 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List > wrote: > > Yes, a bit of an oxymoron. > > So I was happily replacing 15 year old running rigging on my 121 today when I > discovered the boat came with a 4:1 purchase tucked inside the boom for the > outhaul. Who’d a thunk. Two questions for this knowledgeable group. > > Why in the world would I not rip this out a simply run a line from boom end > to cabin top winch? As is, the outhaul runs from boom end, through the > purchase system, through a sheave, through a turning block at the mast base, > through a deck organizer and finally to a winch on the cabin top. They > weren’t even particularly good blocks inside the mast. I would think any > mechanical advantage would be lost to friction Perhaps it serves a purpose > in that the line won’t jump when taken off the winch. > > There has to be a block tucked well into the boom attached at some point > with, I would guess, a wire lead. How do you get to it? > > All help appreciated > > John > > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Sealing deck gear
I have used both polysulfide sealer and butyl tape to keep water out of the cabin from gear mounted on the cabin or deck. I prefer butyl tape because it is less messy and easy to remove. My question is why not use something like flexible rubber, plastic or cork sheets to provide a flexible, waterproof seal? Since these are not used, there must be some problem with them like heat, sun exposure, etc., but with today's modern materials, it seems that butyl tape or a goo like something out of a tube is so last century. OTOH, maybe last century is as good as it gets with this technology. Thoughts from the group? Charlie Nelson C&C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPad ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
I like the list--info is pushed to me--no effort on my part. Charlie Nelson 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from my iPad > On Mar 14, 2015, at 10:11 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List > wrote: > > The list is the best. That way I know I’ve read everything… > > Jake > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via > CnC-List > Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 5:32 PM > To: C&C Email List > Subject: Stus-List Email List or Forum > > Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have > a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list > (like this one). > > PROS: > 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list > 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails. > 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads. > 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums. > 5. Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and > undesirable subscribers blocked. > 6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site at your convenience and view > the latest topics since your last visit. > > CONS: > 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional > enhancements. > 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. > () > 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time. And a bit > more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection. > > Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? It > does not matter to me. > > Stu > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Navtec pump service
I may live so far out "...in the sticks..." in Eastern NC that "...we have to import the sticks 😄..." but we have many hydraulic shops, mostly because we have a lot of farm and logging equipment in use. I had my Navtec unit (after about 15 yrs in use) seals replaced, cylinders smoothed/rebored?, etc. for about $300 at one of these a few years ago. Compared to the size and complexity of most equipment these shops deal with, my Navtec unit was a piece of cake, especially to the "...good old boys..." who are used to more complexity and quicker turn-arounds. (If you have contracted with an equipment lessor to get your crop planted, fertilized, harvested, etc. during a certain time interval, you or they cannot afford to wait for a 2-3 week repair time!) With appreciation to those "actual rocket scientists" on the list, this repair/rebuild does not even approach rocket science. It's a hydraulic cylinder for Heavens sake! The fact that it is used on a sailboat may inflate the repair cost (if it is repaired by a rigging shop) but at the end of the day it is a simple hydraulic cylinder. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad .. > On Feb 4, 2015, at 9:15 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thank you Robbie. > I got a suggestion from Francois Rivard to try Zern Rigging in Pensacola. I > will let you know how it goes - Rick Zern will be closer for you as well! > Tracy > >> On Feb 4, 2015 7:47 PM, "Robbie Epstein via CnC-List" >> wrote: >> I had my Navtec pump and back stay cylinder rebuilt at Florida Rigging in St >> Petersburg a couple of years ago. I live in Fort Walton and couldn't find >> anyone close by to do it. They were easy to work with, and did a great job. >> >> Robbie >> 1980 C&C 40, Thorfinn >> Fort Walton Beach, FL >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> > On Feb 4, 2015, at 2:28 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >> > >> > Stus-List Navtec pump service on Upper Gulf Coast >> >> ___ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
In NC, our boats never come out for the Winter so the bottom needs cleaned regularly if you race or not. Fortunately I get mine done at least monthly for about $50 per cleaning and given the hassle of doing myself, it's a no brained to pay someone to do this. OTOH, at $100 plus per cleaning, I might consider your alternative! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 22, 2014, at 7:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List > wrote: > > Happy holidays to all! > > Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am > considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even > with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less > expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up > here in the northeast I don’t think I would need to do it as often as you > unless I start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs > once during the season and deal with other various issues that might require > me to work on the exterior of the hull below the water line. > > Burt > On the hard in Massachusetts > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny > Haughey via CnC-List > Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM > To: jackbren...@bellsouth.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice > > Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer! > > All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be > celebrating) > > Danny > Boatless > Massachusetts > > > > -- Original Message -- > From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List > To: > Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice > Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500 > > Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull > cleanings in between.) > > Jack Brennan > Former C&C 25 > Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 > Tierra Verde, Fl. > > From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List > Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM > To: Rick Taillieu ; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice > > Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ... > > Count down started at haul out > > Paul. :) > > > On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List > wrote: > > Same to you Russ. > > Only 145 (ish) days until launch. > I know, somebody had to start the countdown. > > > Rick Taillieu > Nemesis > '75 C&C 25 #371 > Shearwater Yacht Club > Halifax, NS. > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & > Melody via CnC-List > Sent: December-21-14 15:36 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice > > > To all Listers & Lurkers, > > Melody & I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter. > > Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America between > ~ 3 - 6 PM local time. > > A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also have a New > Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well. > > We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and maybe > some hot rums. :) > > Wish you could be here, Russ > Sweet 35 mk-1 > Nanaimo > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4253/8781 - Release Date: 12/21/14 > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > <~WRD000.jpg> > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active. > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List BIRW Charter
I am thinking/dreaming of doing BIRW in June and would need to charter a boat that requires a crew of ~ 8, most of whom would probably stay on board to minimize logistical problems as well as cost. As a C&Cer, would prefer to charter the same so I thought I would check with the list for possible charters or advice about the area/race. Any hints/advice would be welcome. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb list Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Many moons ago I had leaks from the SS handrails and the yard suggested adding conical standoffs between the SS rails and the deck. This enabled a larger surface area to be used to help seal against leaks. Has worked for 10+ years. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Nov 14, 2014, at 9:18 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" > wrote: > > http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-fiberglass-rods/=ulaeub > > It looks like getting a rod to cut up wouldn’t even be that expensive. I may > try that or do the foam+epoxy idea. > I think I might try one of these rods for hardware mounting. I have a long > delayed project to remount some deck hardware, so I may try them for that. > Drill ½” hole. > Epoxy ½” rod into hole. > Drill ¼” hole through rod. > Mount hardware with ¼” bolt. > At least a leak has no way to get into the core. > > Joe Della Barba > Coquina > C&C 35 MK I > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster
My Navtec hydraulic back stay adjuster started leaking/slipping a few years ago after ~ 17 yrs of reliable operation. In the farming area of eastern NC where I live, there are many hydraulic shops since just about every farm implement uses hydraulic pistons--often many on the same tractor. All new seals, piston/sleeve polished, etc. more or less like new for ~ $260. Hydraulic technology is much broader than the relatively small but effective uses it is put to in sailing vessels! Sending what is a relatively standard piston back to Navtec ensures a high repair cost but not necessarily a better repair. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb to be much broader Sent from my iPad > On Oct 8, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List > wrote: > > I'm happy with my hydraulic setup. I think I got pretty good service out of > the Navtec units, and the failures were slight leaks, not catastrophes. I do > think the cascading tackle is viable with high tech line and blocks / rings > led to a manual cam cleat (not winch). This is very much a new school setup > (or maybe it's just come around again). > > Tim > >> On Oct 8, 2014, at 5:46 PM, John Pennie wrote: >> >> I’ve heard so many bad stories about hydraulic backstay adjusters that I >> don’t doubt them. Having said that I never had a problem with one on three >> boats over 15 years. Certainly not the type of failure you’re referring to. >> >> >> Without a split backstay your options are limited. Personally I consider >> the mechanical adjusters to be worthless. Just too slow and not enough >> power… and a nuisance as others mentioned. You could go very old school and >> try very beefy blocks led to a dedicated winch but that has its own set of >> problems and cost. Short of that, its hydraulic - either self contained >> units or components which are even more expensive. I can’t say I’ve heard >> much difference from brand N to S. >> >> After 25 years you may want to cut the Navtec unit a little slack. A new >> unit is probably your best option. Of course, you could say the hell with >> it a just put a turnbuckle in. Depends how you use the boat. >> >> John >> >> >> >>> On Oct 8, 2014, at 5:32 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>> Bruno, >>> >>> Have you considered a cascade system? I was racing on a friends boat >>> earlier this year and he was going to pull out because his backstay was >>> still at Navtec being re-built... We rigged up a cascade system using >>> existing parts / line I had on Mojito; varying sizes of Amsteel, high load >>> guy blocks and a vang I'd put together while my vang was being rebuilt by >>> Navtec (there's a theme here somewhere). It worked out at 24:1 (2:1 x 2:1 >>> x 6:1), which would get you 2400 lbs tension with a 100lb pull. Below is a >>> link to a 24:1 version and a Beneteau 36.7 I sailed on had a 48:1 like the >>> Harken. With only a single attachment point there is a risk of tangles >>> versus the multiple chain plates, but Amsteel is slippery stuff, so as long >>> as you get the block reeving right it should be OK. >>> >>> http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?11645-Hydraulic-to-Cascading-Backstay-Upgrade >>> http://www.harken.com/DeckLayout.aspx?id=14795 >>> >>> Tim >>> Mojito >>> C&C 35-3 >>> Branford, CT >>> >>> On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 5:14 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote: The 33 is not split backstay, maybe some late models have them but not mine. I can not beleive there is not a better reliable system on the market. anybody with direct experience of the Wichard mechanical wiht ratchet ? i don't even know if the handle pumps up and down or rotates with some sort of relief system hence the ratchet ??? same question about power, but the numbers indicate it would be more than appropriate for my boat. I'm worried to dump more money into hydrolic and be a the same point in a year or two. Worse case scenario i lost the rig, i had to jury something this summer offshore in 25 knots plus when the thing blew on my transom. not fun at all. i bought a spare turnbucle after that one and went on with my vacations. thanks for inputs Bruno Lachance C&C 33 mkII Becassine Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 16:45:20 -0400 To: kevindrisc...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com My 2 cents: I don't think the 33 is a split backstay. The cost to split it and install new chain plates would probably exceed the cost of a hydraulic unit. With a masthead rig I would want more power than you can get with a manual adjuster. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 4:33 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote: I second the split back
Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing (
I concur with the measurement suggestion. Also I would not be surprised to find that the cb boat of any C&C 'series' might actually have a deeper draft than its 'racer/fin keel' equivalent model. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb 1995 Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 26, 2014, at 7:10 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List > wrote: > > Checked Yachtworld and found other 37/40's for sale w 7' 3" draft. Maybe C&C > changed the production after the brochures were printed? Maybe Mars Metals > made a change? Maybe owners changed the keels? > > I'd check with a tape measure from the waterline to the keel bottom tip. > My boat was supposed to be 7' 3" but I measured 7' 4" actual before we > changed keels. I measured several others in the boatyard and found them to > be 4" deeper than the brochure spec. > > Sails: a new main for my 36 footer is between $3.5K and $7K depending on > materials. Jibs are about the same. I expect your boat's sails should cost > between $5K and 8K depending on material. That's racing Dacron to 3DL. You > can spend more on Carbon. > > They make light air sails for racing. I heard they are not as durable as > standard weight sails and you are lucky to get two seasons racing before they > stretch out of shape. A clean bottom makes all your sails faster so figure > on prepping the bottom better than the fleet and you'll do well. You'll need > a big crew for that sized boat, 10 to 12. > > The previous owner should have some good insight. Good luck. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > > From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 10:41:28 AM > Subject: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing ( > > Thanks for all the GREAT input. This list is by far the best email list I > have ever read. I look forward to being a real member by owning a C&C. Anyhow > a few corrections to my post. > > 1. The boat is owned by the dealer they took it on trade > 2. They did replace the floor boards, or at least refinish them. I know this > because it is clear that the floor boards in the aft cabin are a much darker > color so I inquired. That is when I found out about the water. And yes the > boat was left uncovered with mast up for years. They just covered it for the > first time last year. They dropped the mast, stored it, and shrink wrapped > the boat. > 3. We are not up 18’ on Lake Michigan but 18” still enough for this boat to > get into most harbors but not all. Just last year it would have been a > problem. I am hopping we are starting our tread up. I don’t want to be > calling Mars to reduce the keel in a few years. That is a $20k job. > > I just yesterday spoke with the last owner on the phone. A friend of mine > knows him and put us in touch. I am going to meet him this weekend because he > is crewing on a boat that is doing a port to port this weekend and we are > doing that race as well. NICE guy on the phone. And yes they were not serious > racers. He did say that if I were going to race the boat I would need a new > main. One of the #2’s was near new. A new main for my C30 is $1,500 on the > low end, about the same for the #3. I know this because I just bought new > sail last year. > > Jake: $45k to $55k is exactly what I was thinking. > A friend of mine is close friends with a broker and he had him check on boats > sold in the past 3 years. The closest one to a 1989 std. rig was a 1991 std. > rig wing. It looked like it was in nice condition and it sold for $60K. That > was two years ago. Not one on Lake Michigan. There were more expensive boats > but they were really nice, new interior, new sail, new paint jobs, i.e. like > new. My wife would be more interested in a wing, I like the fin for > performance, I am concerned if the lake levels head south. > > Chuck: A roller furling genneker is a great idea for light air. I wonder if I > can get away with that in the JAM fleet. I am almost certain that our 1st > place JAM boat was flying very light large head sail that he ran up the luff > track. It was like 3 or 4 knots and we were barley moving and he was just > pulling away. > > Thanks so much for your help. > > David Roberts > ddr1...@gmail.com > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email addre
Re: Stus-List Now docking
IMHO, the key to docking stern to is to have sufficiently sized 'cahunas' to get the boat moving in reverse relatively far from the slip. I almost always dock stern to and independent of wind, current, prop walk, blah, blah, blah...the key is to get going in reverse at least 10 boat lengths from your destination with whatever prop you use, whether it is offset, etc,. Once moving in reverse, the rudder takes over and the engine can be put in neutral (with occasional, and brief; drops into reverse to keep reasonable speed up so that the rudder maintains control). Facing aft with the wheel behind me, I can steer the boat like a car, since the rudder is like my front wheel underneath my feet, with occasional shifts into reverse to keep way on and the rudder steering working. Once into the slip as far as I need to be, a short burst of forward gear stops reverse motion and I and/or my crew can tie her up. QED. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Aug 28, 2014, at 4:32 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" > wrote: > > Don't you just hate it when you've got that "perfect" stern in docking > maneuver going and one of your crew thinks you're going to scrape a piling > and "fends off" by stopping the boat. That sucks! I usually try to remember > to tell crew not to fend off unless I ask and definitely don't stop me. A 25 > hp diesel can stop a boat's aft motion much quicker than a crew. > > Dennis C. > > >> On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 3:23 PM, Dennis C. wrote: >> Ditto. (Of course it's probably just luck, the current or wind, magic or my >> imagination because conventional wisdom seems to say that Martecs have no >> reverse.) >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> >>> On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 10:11 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> The trick to backing with a Martec folding prop is the throttle. >>> >>> My Martec will stop my 15000 pound 38 from 2 or 3 knots in about a boat >>> length. Shift into reverse and boost the throttle to about half (1200 to >>> 1500 rpm in my case). The revs hold the blades open and she will stop as >>> well as she did with the 16x10 fixed prop. >>> >>> I back into my slip. Going forward, approach from perpendicular to the slip >>> centerline and a couple of boat lengths off the outer piling. Turn out to >>> intersect the slip centerline, shift to reverse and throttle up. When the >>> boat has good stern way, shift to neutral and use the rudder and momentum >>> to back into the slip. A blip of power in forward to stop, and then scurry >>> forward to get the bow and forward spring line attached to the boat, then >>> slow reverse to hold the boat into the slip and use the prop walk to hold >>> her against the dock. >>> >>> Heck, now that I think of it, the only time I have the boat in reverse at >>> idle is when I'm using the prop walk to bring the stern over to a pier or >>> to turn around in a tight fairway. >>> >>> Rick Brass >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> On Aug 28, 2014, at 10:17, Burt Stratton via CnC-List wrote: Hell, It took me a few attempts at backing in under power to figure out that my 2-blade folding Martec prop needs half an hour head start just to stop my 1kt forward progress! Still trying to figure out how to account for and use my prop-walk. If I have a good hand with me I will sail on and off my mooring. >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >>> page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)
My board requires a yard travel lift to get the room to have the board hanging only by the pin--it appears that C&C designed them that way. Then everything is reasonably accessible. The pennant travel passes thru a cabin top 'stop', then a sheave directing it vertically thru a SS tube thru the cabin floor to another sheave that directs it horizontal again just beneath the cabin sole to another sheave that directs it vertically thru the cb trunk/keel to the aft end go the elliptical board. This is different than the sketch Edd provided. I'll send it out when I get to a computer with it loaded on it. This drawing was done by Rob Bell in Oct 1993. The sheaves are mounted in SS 'boxes' that have watertight SS access ports for inspection and running new pennants--both well below the waterline! Further the keel bolts are into the cb trunk 'outside' the space that the cb occupies. I now have the pennant inspected during each yearly haul out for bottom painting, etc. and plan to replace it on a 5 year basis unless the yearly inspection indicates that it should be replaced sooner. I know a lot more about cb design than I should but such is the life of a cb boat owner. Given my use of the boat and where it 'lives', I would buy another one without hesitation although I think a lifting keel would be the best but probably more costly. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List > wrote: > > Chuck, > > Had a long talk with a yard owner about this who is familiar with the > boat (he provided the diagram.) > > I’m not sure about those few keel bolts other than to think they don’t > go down that far so the board can go up. > > As you can see, with the board down, the cable access is still deep > inside the trunk — my divers were unable to get in there with any > light/tools. I’m told the only way to replace the cable is to haul the boat > at least 8 feet in the air, take apart the table so the steel tube and access > to the pulley below the waterline can be reached and taken apart. Then snake > the cable through and have someone try to reconnect inside the trunk (not a > lot of space to work with). > > My club can’t get the boat that high, so every time I would want to > replace the cable, I’m looking at a commercial yard with commercial yard > rates (they’d have to do the work too.) $. > > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Starship Enterprise > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > City Island, NY > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log > >> On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:20 PM, Chuck S wrote: >> >> Hi Edd, >> How are the keel bolts laid out? Are they on either side of the centerboard? >> >> And the pendent is fed thru a tube sealed to the cabin floor? >> >> How do you access the pulley that is placed below the waterline? >> >> >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Broad Creek, >> Magothy River, Md >> >> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> Sent: Monday, June 9, 2014 11:56:25 AM >> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar) >> >> Stu (and any Listers who may be interested), >> >> You may want this document on the Photo Album site which may be of use to >> others — it’s a diagram of the C&C 37+ (and XL) centerboard. I’m told that >> the 34+ and XL centerboard models are very similar. >> >> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/centerboard.pdf >> >> Also, a correction on the site: Under C&C Owners Homepages, could you >> change my link to www.starshipsailing.com? Also, the Enterprise isn’t a >> 37/40XL, but a 37+ (or 37/40+) >> >> Lastly, I have some photos of the 37+ interior and “Dock Photos” if you >> want them. What is the best way to get these to you? >> >> Thanks for all you do. >> >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Edd >> >> >> Edd M. Schillay >> Starship Enterprise >> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B >> City Island, NY >> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit
On my cb, it is not possible to replace the cable or even check it carefully without having the boat in the travel lift high enough to remove the topside stopper mechanism so the board can be fully dropped so it hangs only by the pin. Of course this requires at least some time in the lift but for my cb, it impossible to see, let alone work on the board end of the pennant otherwise. Since my boat gets bottom paint every season, there is only a few hours of yard time additional--we'll worth it for the peace of mind that my board will stay with the boat for the season! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 3, 2014, at 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List > wrote: > > Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to > remove no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only > room for 1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck > turning block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and > pulled it up, marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and > swagged the 2 ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in > the shop on a roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about > $800 Canadian. > > We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds > ... It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even > here there are times it is great to have. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" > wrote: > >> Paul, >> >> It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday >> (I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get >> their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out >> and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that >> great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was >> frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody >> could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. >> >> Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, >> makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and >> completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick >> additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last >> turn. >> >> And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And >> maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some >> serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!” >> >> The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in >> place and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only >> shoal-draft C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the >> boat, the galaxy). >> >> There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. >> >> Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use >> the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if >> you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far >> between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer >> can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard >> system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. >> >> As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a >> racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think >> racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, >> etc. and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a >> prospective buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a >> now zero-maintence keel. >> >> Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, >> but I’m never in doubt.” >> >> Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Edd >> >> >> Edd M. Schillay >> Starship Enterprise >> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B >> City Island, NY >> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log >> >>> On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain wrote: >>> >>> Edd, >>> >>> I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... >>> >>> 2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 >>> friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to >>> release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked And guess which >>> stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped. >>> >>> We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled >>> the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so >>> over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the >>> replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was >>> 70% or
Re: Stus-List Folding prop
I sprung for a Gori Racing folder about 3 years ago after some internet research on prop drag. The Gori's drag was so low as to be almost immeasurable compared to almost all others on the market in the Yachting article. It or any other prop must be matched to the engine/transmission/boat displacement and room to spin without interference from the hull which can lead to cavitation or other problems. It takes some time for it to get the boat moving in reverse but likely not more than other 2 blade folders. At yearly haul outs, it is barnacle free and after the teeth are cleaned up and greased, it works like new. Of course, my boat bottom and prop are cleaned no less than monthly and it stays in the water year round. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On May 22, 2014, at 8:26 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List > wrote: > > Every time this discussion comes up I mention the Kiwi prop which is less > expensive and more advanced than the others but to no avail. A friend put > one on his Sweden 38 and claims he gained a knot of speed under sail and > under power. They are lighter and non-metalic so do not corrode. Made in > New Zeland. Check their web site. kiwiprops.com. Jerry - C&C 27-5. > > > > -Original Message- > From: Dennis C. via CnC-List > To: andrew rothweiler ; CnClist > Sent: Thu, May 22, 2014 6:42 pm > Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop > > Gee, Andy, > > I'm really surprised nobody replied yet. There's usually a decent discussion > on folders. Most fall into two camps, the Martec detractors and the > Flex-O-Fold supporters. I swing a Martec 2 blade folder on Touche'. As a > racer I like it but many do not because of its perceived lack of reverse > power. > > Call each supplier and get recommendations and pricing. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > >> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:04 AM, andrew rothweiler via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Hello, can someone give advice on selecting a folding prop that would be >> matched with an Atomic 4 in a 35-2? >> Thanks in advance. >> Andy R >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CB Question
Up and down for racing, usually up for local cruising in the NC sounds and the ICW which rarely have depths of 20 feet. My 36 XL has a 4.5 ft depth lead cb trunk so there is plenty of 'keel' with the board up inside the trunk. Since the board weighs ~1000 lbs, grinding it up is not something one does frequently, unless racing. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad > On May 21, 2014, at 5:12 PM, Don Newman via CnC-List > wrote: > > How do CB owners generally use them for daysailing and cruising? > Assuming no depth issues (we have 20 ft in the slip) do you pull it when not > sailing? > Any other suggestions? > > It sure makes a big CMG difference upwind. > > Thanks > > Don Newman > C&C 44 > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Mixed batteries/alternators
Thanks to everyone who chimed in about these issues--a good example of the expertise on this list and your willingness to share it! It's also an illustration of the adage "...be careful what you wish for". There are so many ways to address my mixed battery issue that my head is about to explode! I think I'll return the starting battery and get another AGM Group 31 leaving me with 2 identical batteries and a charger that can handle them. I will also check out the alternator charging voltage. Given that my previous Lifeline AGM battery lasted ~ 8 years with absolutely no care whatsoever, my alternator is probably maintaining an appropriate voltage to the battery. Then I can go back to squeezing another 1/10th knot out of my SAILBOAT in our race this weekend! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
