Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

2017-07-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It's useful to remember that a screw (or bolt) is a spring. When tightened
it stretches lengthwise. Like any spring, it offers the best "grip" when
subjected to the right range of pressure. 

Way back in my High School days (1950's - before Mercury was a toxic
substance) I watched a demonstration using a bolt and nut made of frozen
Mercury. Mercury is not elastic. Liquid Mercury was poured into molds for a
nut and bolt and hardened with liquid nitrogen. Using gloves, the
demonstrator assembled the nut and bolt using a large wrench to apply a
great deal of torque. That done, anyone could loosen it without a wrench by
just twisting the nut or bolt with minimal finger pressure (inside the
gloves of course). There was no resistance since Mercury does not stretch.

It's easy to over torque (stretch) small screws. That's why the Elecraft kit
assembly manuals do not recommend using power screwdrivers. The Elecraft
factory in Watsonville is equipped with special torque-limiting power
screwdrivers to allow quick assembly with screws not so tight they are
damaged or broken. 

Since a screw is basically an inclined plane that stretches the screw when
tightened, vibration will allow the screw to turn (slide along the plane of
the threads), hence the use of lock washers or chemical compounds in such
environments to stop any movement. 

Perhaps the issue with the KX2 paddles is the vibration as the contacts
collide allowing the screws to turn. Working remotely on the Elecraft
manuals I've not been directly involved with the issue, so that is pure
speculation.

73, Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

2017-07-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I suspect you are right, since the website lists it as an "Adhesive". 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goldberg
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2017 2:38 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: Elecraft; w4sc
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

Loctite 425 appears to be the only one they recommend for metal to plastic.
It is Cyanoacrylate based. It may not be that much different from the plain
old CA glue you used, except it is a pretty Loctite blue!

http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797887234
049


73,

Mark
W7MLG


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

2017-07-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Josh: 

When I bought Loctite I had a choice of only two, red and blue. So I just
looked and that's all the Loctite web site lists now (they do have a variety
of glues and other chemicals but I am looking at threadlockers). Red Loctite
requires heating the screw to 500F to remove it. Blue Loctite can be removed
using hand tools. They do say they are not "recommended" for use on
plastics, but I believed they meant securing plastic threaded parts. In my
case it was a steel screw and nut so I used blue Loctite on the screw
threads. A tiny amount of the Loctite must have flowed onto the plastic hole
in the parts the screw and nut were securing. That was enough that resulted
in slow disintegration from a hole for a #4 screw out to an inch more in all
directions. 

I'll continue to use a drop of CA glue since I've never had a screw secured
with it come loose yet they are easily removed when needed. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Josh Fiden
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2017 1:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

There are something like 40 different formulations of Loctite Threadlocker.
It's a great product *if* you select the correct one for your application.
The wrong one can be a disaster.

73,
Josh W6XU

On 7/24/2017 12:48 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Perhaps Loctite has changed the formula

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

2017-07-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I avoid Loctite after using it to secure a steel screw and nut holding a
plastic part. Over the next six months the plastic around the screw
disintegrated - crumbled. That was several years ago. Perhaps Loctite has
changed the formula, but I haven't succumbed to making another test.

I found that a small drop of thin (not gel) CA glue (a.k.a "superglue") on
the threads of a screw works very well, yet the screw can be removed later
if needed with little effort. The threads do not need to be coated. Just a
small amount where the screw enters the threaded section, or a small drop on
the end of the screw where it exits are all that is needed. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goldberg
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2017 11:09 AM
To: w4sc
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: Kx2 paddle issue

There are many different Loctites of each color. Exactly what has worked for
you? I have settled on Blue Loctite 243 for it's improved temperature range,
better compatibility with Stainless Steel hardware and oil resistance.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Mon, Jul 24, 2017 at 10:05 AM, w4sc  wrote:

> You may want to reconsider using Loctite Red (or Blue), the highest 
> strengths.  If you ever want to disassemble that part of the XDP2, it 
> may take heat and excessive force to loosen.
>
> Loctite Purple is probably more than adequate for the securing of the 
> posts.  A tiny dab of Purple on the end of the screw threads worked 
> great for me.
>
> REF; http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-
> red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/
>
> 73 de Ben W4SC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 watt meter- multiple sensors question

2017-07-22 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yes. It just takes switching the 8-wire connection to a new sensor with
something like this:

http://www.computercableinc.com/ccinc/products.jsp?sub=Switch+Boxes+-+Manual
&id=1173

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Fugleberg
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2017 2:31 PM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: [Elecraft] W2 watt meter- multiple sensors question

I see that the W2 can support up to 2 remote sensors, selectable from the
front panel.
Is it possible to support more (say 4 total) with some kind of external
switching arrangement?
I have a K3 with three XV series transverters (144, 222, 432). Each
transverter feeds a power amp and connects to an antenna for that band. I
currently use separate external meters at the output of each amplifier. I'd
like to replace those with a single meter that can monitor whichever band
I'm transmitting on.
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Re: [Elecraft] Really OT: Inside-the-vehicle HF antennas (possible bonus points)

2017-07-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I thought that was how FM antennas were implemented in some cars already, but 
without using resistance wire. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Randy Bright
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 8:18 PM
To: Wayne Burdick
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Really OT: Inside-the-vehicle HF antennas (possible 
bonus points)

Would there be a way to repurpose the defrost wiring that is sandwiched between 
the layers of glass in some back windows and use that thin wire for your 
antenna?

Randy
AK4QK
Member Calhoun County Amateur Radio Assn.
NAQCC #6312

On Jul 15, 2017 7:54 PM, "Wayne Burdick"  wrote:

> I’m dealing with one of the last unsolved problems in amateur radio: 
> how to operate HF mobile without an antenna. At least not one that, 
> according to some vehicle co-owners/spouses, would defile your new sedan.
>
> For 10 bonus points that have only philosophical value, your challenge 
> is to create an invisible mobile antenna and actually make a QSO on 
> it. For practical purposes (i.e., not frying the car or passengers) 
> let’s say the maximum power level is 10 watts. The bands of interest are 
> 40-10 meters.
>
> Here are some ideas I’m considering:
>
> - mag loop in the rear window
> - thin wire loop on a roof rack
> - gamma match to the entire roof
> - surface acoustic waves
> - prayer
>
> Other ideas?
>
> Yes, I know this violates the laws of physics and bioethics. And I 
> fully expect the car to generate debilitating levels of RFI. But isn’t 
> this the least you’d expect from an unsolved problem?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] my KX2 experience and a minor structural issue

2017-07-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
There is nothing wrong with immersing the plastic bezel in a dish of soapy
water. Just be sure it's a liquid soap in the water and not a scouring
cleanser. 

After washing, using my fingers to gently rub the bezel in the soapy water,
I lay the bezel on a soft terrycloth towel or even a paper towel and pat it
dry. 

Then, while assembling, I use an air duster to blow off any bits that
accumulate on the inside of the bezel or LCD when mounting the bezel. 

If you do end up with a scratch on the bezel, use any of the acrylic
polishes commonly available. Most automotive stores sell it to clear the
lenses on automobile head and tail lights. A lot of wear and heavy scratches
can be polished away very easily with that stuff. 

Many airport shops that sell supplies also carry it for polishing aircraft
windscreens that become pitted and scratched over time. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of n...@zianet.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2017 11:57 AM
To: Walter Underwood
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] my KX2 experience and a minor structural issue

Walter Underwood writes:

> With sand, I would not use a rag. Flush under running water until clean,
then dry off gently.

Actually, that's how I did it.  You verbalized it better than me.  The point
is, wiping off sand and grit on plastic with a dry rag is guaranteed to
cause scratches.  Let water do the work; avoid soaps and harsh cleaning
agents.

72, Paul NA5N

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Re: [Elecraft] my KX2 experience and a minor structural issue

2017-07-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I keep an air duster handy to blow off the LCD and inside of the bezel just
before mounting it. 

I agree 100% with the liquid dish washing detergent suggestion to clean the
surfaces. It's what we recommend in the kit assembly manuals for all the
Elecraft rigs. 

However, never spray, dribble, etc., a soap mixture directly onto the LCD.
Wet a soft cloth with the mixture and wipe the surface with it just as you'd
clean a monitor screen. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Chris Tate - N6WM
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2017 2:34 PM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] my KX2 experience and a minor structural issue

Of course..  My bigger concern is the sand that squeaked through the opening
in the plastic lens and the case..  and sand is in the lcd.. going to need
to be very careful with that.

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on
behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX [rmcg...@blomand.net]
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2017 2:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] my KX2 experience and a minor structural issue

A drop or two of liquid dish washing detergent and soft cloth or rubbing
with ones fingers works quite well.A word of caution, NEVER wipe a
dry plastic lens.   Any dust particle will most likely scratch the surface.


On 7/10/2017 3:38 PM, KD7PY wrote:
> I use this to clean the display and lens..
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Blower-Digital-Screens-Cleaning-Keyboards/dp/B0
> 0LV01BT2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1499718910&sr=8-7&keywords=camera+lens
> +brush
>
>
> Ed   KD7PY
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/my-KX2-experience-and-a-minor-str
> uctural-issue-tp7632377p7632385.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> rmcg...@blomand.net
>


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[Elecraft] KX-3 for Sale

2017-07-05 Thread Ron Manfredi
This was not used for field day!   Actually, it has gotten very little 
use; I haven't had the time do to portable operation, so I will continue 
to use my K3s at home, but make this rig available to someone who can 
make better use of it.  Photos available on request.


 It has the 15 watt firmware installed, comes with the MH-3 hand mic, 
and all manuals, and some interconnecting cables.I am the second owner, 
and have had it for about a year.It was ordered as a factory-built unit 
in 2013, and it looks like new and works as it should. (The serial 
number is 04834.) It has the following options, all factory installed:


KXFL3Dual Passband Roofing Filter.

KXAT3Automatic antenna tuner.

KX3 2M AT2 Meter All-Mode module.

KXBC3Clock/battery charger, with low discharge-rate batteries installed.

KX End Panels and Lexan cover.

Palm Pico Paddle with mounting bracket.  (It connects to the rig the 
same way the Elecraft paddle does.)


2 Meter flex antenna.

Pro Audio Engineering low RFI AC adapter/charger. (14.4 vdc at 4 amps)

Generic AC adapter/charger that is almost as clean as the Pro Audio 
unit, with the same voltage and power output specs as the Pro Audio.


End-fed un/un longwire antenna with coax feedline.

Orange soft case by "Rose"with the original owner's callsign embroidered 
under the "Elecraft" name.


Asking $1700 plus shipping from NY, or pick it up in the NYC/LI area.


I also have a Chameleon CHA-P (version 1) loop antenna available!


RonWA2EIO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3. FD shutdown

2017-07-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
If it was mine, I'd start by dropping it onto the operating desk from a
height of about 6 inches, onto the bottom feet and, if that didn't make it
quit, onto the side feet. 

I presume the cables you checked were external to the K3. There are a number
of coaxial cables with TMP connectors around the synthesizer and reference
oscillator boards the might be loose since they are simple friction fit
connectors. 

IF it is a K3/100, be sure the KPA3 amplifier module is fully seated and the
screws are in place. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2017 8:49 AM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3. FD shutdown

My K3 (s/n 453x) has been used for FD and other outdoor events plus use at
home (till I  rec'd one of the first K3Ss). On at least 2 events in past
year it has exhibited little output power. Batteries were checked, cables
checked and replaced, to no avail. Display did not show SWR when TUNE button
pressed (only "--"). Another K3 was swapped in and everything was fine. 
I took radio home and it worked perfectly. 

This year at FD, it quit at around midnight. Even tried <12 W to verify LPA.
Result little or almost no power. Checked LPA screws but they were tight.
Voltage on radio was just above 12v on TX. Took it home and it shows no sign
of low power. It has worked well all week. 

Reloaded FW from Elecraft and reloaded last CONFIG file (May 2017 just
before first event of year and did TX cal at this time). 

Now hooked to dummy load and running stress test with FD CW msg on repeat. 

Anyone have ideas?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

2017-06-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Clay, I believe it has to do with danger to your equipment should the
connection between the battery and the chassis open. In that case all the
current to all the automobile systems, from starter to lights to ignition,
radio, etc., would flow through the ground path provided by the radio if it
is connected directly to the negative battery terminal. Since that can be
100's of amperes when starting the engine, no radio is likely to survive. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay Autery
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 8:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 power outlets

Horse puckey!  I DEFY you to prove the physics OR math of that ridiculous
statement.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 6/27/2017 9:55 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
> WARNING! 
>
>
> For extremely important safety and fire prevention reasons reasons, no 
> accessory should ever be connected directly to the negative terminal 
> of an automotive battery . Just like when charging an automotive 
> battery, the negative lead of a cable running directly to the battery 
> should always connect to the engine block and never directly to the 
> battery.
>
>
> The positive lead must be fused where it connects to the battery. 
>
>
> There's an excellent discussion here: 
>
> https://www.w8ji.com/negative_lead_to_battery.htm
>
>
> 73
> Frank
> W3LPL

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

2017-06-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yes. I was busy cooking dinner and was glancing at the power displayed on an
external meter from time to time. 

I've not seen the power shut down on me, but then I'm seldom running QRO
(>10 watts) with any rig. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick [mailto:n...@elecraft.com] 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 4:51 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: Irma & Linas(LY2H); elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

Auto power reduction happens at 63 C. But it may very well have gone down to
55 C awhile after dropping to 5 W. 

Wayne
N6KR


http://www.elecraft.com

> On Jun 18, 2017, at 4:38 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
> 
> Sri, I meant the temp was 55C, not 45C after the automatic power 
> reduction kicked in.
> 
> 73 Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau 
> Claire
> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 4:28 PM
> To: 'Irma & Linas(LY2H)'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink
> 
> Fired up my "stock from the factory" KX2 into a dummy load at 10 
> watts, key down, and it dropped to 5 watts after 4 minutes running 
> from a 13.8 vdc supply.  PA temp was about 45C.
> 
> Hope that helps with your analysis.
> 
> 73, Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Irma & 
> Linas(LY2H)
> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 2:33 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink
> 
> Hello folks,
> I am looking for the practical , empyrical, real info based on the 
> individual measurements of the maximum Key-down time/temperature at 
> the 10w output of the KX2 before it drops down to 5 W issuing a 
> message of "HI TEMP". I would also like to learn about comparison of 
> the KX2 stock heatsink vs the Pro-audio Engineering KX22 product.
> 
> The reason is that I have decided to install the KX22 on my KX2 ( # 
> 148*) after a short dx-pedition to Aland islands in May. I was 
> handling quite a pile-up from the hotel room and after some 5 min of 
> intensive CQ-ing and answering on CW the PA temperature gone up to 
> 59-60C degrees and the power dropped down to 5 W and it was 
> frustrating :) Today I have installed the PAE
> KX22 heatsink. The key-down at 10 W into a dummy load in CW mode 
> lasted for around 3 minutes starting from the ambient temp. 27C. I 
> don't think this is very impressive baring in mind the Pro-audio's  
> claim of the 250% key-down time improvement. Unfortunately, I was not 
> so smart to test the key-down time with the stock heatsink before I 
> changed it to the new one, :) But I remember Wayne was posting  here 
> in the previous thread something abt 7 min of key-down at 10W... So, 
> with the 250% improvement with the KX22 it should last... for some 24 
> min?! in my case, It doesn't sound very realistic , neither 7 min with 
> the stock heatsink, nor 24 min with the Pro-Audio ( maybe ,bad thermal 
> contact, not enough of grease?). That's why it would be very 
> interesting  to compare the real-life empyrical data of the other KX2
owners.
> 
> 73! Linas LY2H
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

2017-06-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Sri, I meant the temp was 55C, not 45C after the automatic power reduction
kicked in. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 4:28 PM
To: 'Irma & Linas(LY2H)'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

Fired up my "stock from the factory" KX2 into a dummy load at 10 watts, key
down, and it dropped to 5 watts after 4 minutes running from a 13.8 vdc
supply.  PA temp was about 45C. 

Hope that helps with your analysis.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Irma & Linas(LY2H)
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 2:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

Hello folks,
I am looking for the practical , empyrical, real info based on the
individual measurements of the maximum Key-down time/temperature at the 10w
output of the KX2 before it drops down to 5 W issuing a message of "HI
TEMP". I would also like to learn about comparison of the KX2 stock heatsink
vs the Pro-audio Engineering KX22 product.

The reason is that I have decided to install the KX22 on my KX2 ( # 148*)
after a short dx-pedition to Aland islands in May. I was handling quite a
pile-up from the hotel room and after some 5 min of intensive CQ-ing and
answering on CW the PA temperature gone up to 59-60C degrees and the power
dropped down to 5 W and it was frustrating :) Today I have installed the PAE
KX22 heatsink. The key-down at 10 W into a dummy load in CW mode lasted for
around 3 minutes starting from the ambient temp. 27C. I don't think this is
very impressive baring in mind the Pro-audio's  claim of the 250% key-down
time improvement. Unfortunately, I was not so smart to test the key-down
time with the stock heatsink before I changed it to the new one, :) But I
remember Wayne was posting  here in the previous thread something abt 7 min
of key-down at 10W... So, with the 250% improvement with the KX22 it should
last... for some 24 min?! in my case, It doesn't sound very realistic ,
neither 7 min with the stock heatsink, nor 24 min with the Pro-Audio ( maybe
,bad thermal contact, not enough of grease?). That's why it would be very
interesting  to compare the real-life empyrical data of the other KX2
owners.

73! Linas LY2H
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

2017-06-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fired up my "stock from the factory" KX2 into a dummy load at 10 watts, key
down, and it dropped to 5 watts after 4 minutes running from a 13.8 vdc
supply.  PA temp was about 45C. 

Hope that helps with your analysis.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Irma & Linas(LY2H)
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 2:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 heatsink

Hello folks,
I am looking for the practical , empyrical, real info based on the
individual measurements of the maximum Key-down time/temperature at the 10w
output of the KX2 before it drops down to 5 W issuing a message of "HI
TEMP". I would also like to learn about comparison of the KX2 stock heatsink
vs the Pro-audio Engineering KX22 product.

The reason is that I have decided to install the KX22 on my KX2 ( # 148*)
after a short dx-pedition to Aland islands in May. I was handling quite a
pile-up from the hotel room and after some 5 min of intensive CQ-ing and
answering on CW the PA temperature gone up to 59-60C degrees and the power
dropped down to 5 W and it was frustrating :) Today I have installed the PAE
KX22 heatsink. The key-down at 10 W into a dummy load in CW mode lasted for
around 3 minutes starting from the ambient temp. 27C. I don't think this is
very impressive baring in mind the Pro-audio's  claim of the 250% key-down
time improvement. Unfortunately, I was not so smart to test the key-down
time with the stock heatsink before I changed it to the new one, :) But I
remember Wayne was posting  here in the previous thread something abt 7 min
of key-down at 10W... So, with the 250% improvement with the KX22 it should
last... for some 24 min?! in my case, It doesn't sound very realistic ,
neither 7 min with the stock heatsink, nor 24 min with the Pro-Audio ( maybe
,bad thermal contact, not enough of grease?). That's why it would be very
interesting  to compare the real-life empyrical data of the other KX2
owners.

73! Linas LY2H
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Re: [Elecraft] Packing Peanuts

2017-06-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I dislike the peanuts too but about the static charge note that all the 
Elecraft manuals instruct builders to wear a grounded wrist strap or as a 
minimum, touch a metallic ground before touching any sensitive parts. 

73. Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of GaryK9GS
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2017 8:02 PM
To: Ian Kahn, KM4IK; 'Kevin - K4VD'; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Packing Peanuts

Frankly I'm shocked that Elecraft used Styrofoam packing peanuts.   I work in 
electronics manufacturing and my company has banned them from our building well 
over a decade ago.  All of our vendors are required to not use them.  They are 
a killer for electronic components.
It is precisely the static charge that causes them to stick to everything.   
What do you think happens to that static charge that is present on your body 
after handling this packing material when you open a static bag containing 
static sensitive parts?  It has to go somewhere.


73,
Gary K9GS

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Re: [Elecraft] Packing Peanuts

2017-06-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
By now someone must have done a graduate thesis on the lost productive hours
caused by people chasing those things. 

So how many cubic kilometers of peanuts are lying buried in landfills? How
many are stuck in the guts of hapless seagulls and other scavengers? 

Boggles the mind.

73, Ron AC7AC 




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S]. New out of box, no ssb output

2017-06-17 Thread Ron Manfredi

Did you enable mic bias?

Ron  WA2EIO


On 6/17/2017 10:16 AM, Wp4cw via Elecraft wrote:

Gm all
I was able to test my CW and it works (100w). Now moving to SSB.
Mic is  Mh2
Set Mic to front panel , low
I turn vox on
No out put
Can anyone let me know what I'm missing. Thank you. Ted



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3S-New-out-of-box-no-ssb-output-tp7631797.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

2017-06-12 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
In military and commercial brass pounding in the USA, we were limited to
something between 13 and 20 wpm, usually closer to 13, because long studies
demonstrated that slower is faster because of fewer mistakes copying every
letter correctly on a keyboard or paper. And hearing whole "words" was a
path to disaster if one was copying five letter code groups. 

If I was caught trying to run an Army CW net above about 15 wpm I'd likely
end up on KP for a month. (KP = kitchen police: cleaning kitchens, peeling
potatoes, etc.) The object was to ensure that everyone on the circuit could
copy perfectly the first time. 

In the "day" some commercial point-to-point circuits required the operators
use the "company key" provided - a bug with the weights welded on for about
15 wpm just to keep the speeds down for faster message handling.  

I've seen commercial ship/shore traffic running very slow due to a shipboard
operator who was not proficient at CW. The shore station had to run equally
slow, no matter how painful. 

But Amateur Radio is a whole different world with different skills being
most useful, skills such as head copy at 20 or 30 wpm. I enjoy "reading the
mail" on CW while puttering around the shack, just as if listening to a
voice transmission. And many Hams enjoy constantly pushing the envelope on
speed just for the fun of it. Ham radio is, after all, a Hobby. If the other
station copies the name as Don, not Ron, and the QTH as Forest Lawn (a
cemetery in Los Angeles) and not Forest Grove (a town in Oregon), it's
easily corrected on the next transmission.  

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KENT TRIMBLE
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:31 AM
To: f...@fmeco.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

One caveat, Fred . . .

Traffic handlers MUST copy on paper or on a word processor.

In my opinion, one is not a skilled telegrapher until one can copy in head
and on paper with equal accuracy.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV



On 6/12/2017 11:59 AM, Fred Moore wrote:
> the moral... put down the pencil and paper.
>
> Fred Moore
>

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Re: [Elecraft] 6m off-frequency

2017-06-11 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
On my few excursions into SSB land, I've actually had operators answer my CQ
saying I was "off frequency" because I was not aligned exactly on some
multiple of 500 kHz. 

I apologize for any confusion and state that I am on XXX.440 or some similar
"non 500" frequency. And then return to CW. 

I do remember the days of a 10 minute long CQ followed by ten more minutes
of tuning across the Novice band looking for an answer. I often miss those
days and the ops I met back then. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Rhodes
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2017 6:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6m off-frequency

...would certainly be interesting to set those operators who tune for the
"zeros" down in front of a vintage rig with a tuning dial - although I think
Erik alluded to that a bit in his post. Better yet, how about a stint in the
crystal controlled Novice band where you tuned from one end of the band to
the other in search of an answer to your call.

Mike / W8DN
Yes, a crusty OT

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Re: [Elecraft] Field use of Counerpiose

2017-06-11 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Agree with Don 100%. Keep in mind that the power is divided between the
counterpoise and the end fed antenna wire. The power divides according to
their impedances; if the impedances are equal, you lose 3 dB (half of the
power) in the counterpoise. So the idea is to have the counterpoise present
the lowest impedance possible and the antenna present the highest impedance
possible.

Usually the easiest first step is to raise the impedance the antenna
presents. That's usually limited by the range of the tuner you are using to
match the system to your transmitter but the ideal length is an electrical
1/2 wave of wire. Get a close as the tuner have can find a match.  

Next you lower the impedance of the counterpoise - the more wires the better
although the advantage of more than 6 or 8 wires is pretty small. As Don
noted, that also keeps the RF voltage at the rig low. 

Those are the ideals for an end fed wire. Most of us have to settle for
something less for a variety of reasons. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2017 3:11 PM
To: Gerry Miller; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Field use of Counerpiose

Gerry,

If your purpose for your "counterpoise" is simply to complete the antenna,
then it does not make much difference whether it is grounded or not.
But if its purpose is to keep RF off the enclosure of the rig, there is a
difference.  If it is 1/4 wavelength long, then it should not be grounded -
just like any 1/4 wavelength wire, it is a low impedance point at the
'shack' end.
OTOH, if it is 1/2 wavelength long, ground it to produce a low impedance at
the 'shack end.

A bit of study on antennas and feedline characteristics may be helpful. 
The 'counterpoise' acts like an antenna wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/11/2017 4:44 PM, Gerry Miller wrote:
> 
> Does one ground to earth, the far end of an HF counterpoise or just let it
float above ground at a field location?  I had always believed it should not
be grounded.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

2017-06-11 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Jim:

I KNOW I learned Morse all wrong, according to today's experts. Listened to
ARRL bulletins, code practice tapes a neighbor Ham made for me and a buddy
and practiced sending on a straight key focusing on proper spacing at all
times. 

I can copy 40 to 45 wpm in my head, 35 wpm on a keyboard and 20 wpm on
paper. Since 99.9% of QSO's I encounter on the air are at around 20 wpm I've
never pushed much beyond that for routine operating. 

So the obvious questions are:

What speed do you want to attain? 

What technique are you using to raise your speed? (My "technique" has always
been to copy a LOT of CW and try to find stations sending at about my upper
limit. I don't need to work them. In fact not having to copy is an
advantage. I just want to "read the mail".) 

What is a PAE heat sink, an after-market heat sink?

73 Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Sr Sturges
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2017 3:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

I think I learned code all wrong. Can't ever seem to get my speed up.

Surely some of the astute among you _know_ The Perfect Method, and I hope
you will share?

To complete the OT-ness of this msg, I recently completed the QRP Labs
Ultimate WSPR/QRSS kit and re-learned the joys of soldering iron burns,
again. Certainly nothing wrong with Hans' excellent kits, and the price is
amazing for the functionality, design, and quality.

Then I installed the PAE heat sink end panels on my KX2. The latter is not
for the faint of heart! I STRONGLY recommend the somewhat buried hint in
PAE's instructions to remove the AT board before attaching the PA
transistors to the heat sink. Tried it the other way and re-discovered that
my micromanipulation skills are right up there with my CW -- maybe better,
which is damned depressing.

So, any help mastering Morse?

Thanks in advance and 73,

Jim N3SZ

--
Jim Sturges, N3SZ
Amateur Radio operators do it with frequency.
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Re: [Elecraft] 6m off-frequency

2017-06-11 Thread Ron Manfredi
Have you experienced this on other bands, during casual operating since 
the rig was returned to you?


I find that when I am on SSB, I tune until my ear may likes what I am 
hearing , and as such,  I may not be exactly on their frequency.   (that 
is one reason for RIT!)  Also, I have found that some ops feel that they 
have to be tuned to an even frequency on their digital display.   For 
them, if you are on 14.219.8 and not on 14.220.0  then you are off 
frequency.



Ron  WA2EIO


On 6/11/2017 11:45 AM, Ian Kahn wrote:

All,

I've been operating a little in the ARRL VHF contest this weekend, on 6m,
and I'm having an interesting, and not good, experience. Everyone I try to
work is reporting that I'm off frequency by about 500 Hz. I don't have
RIT/XIT enabled. My K3, s/n 281, went to Elecraft earlier this year for
some upgrades and a tune-up, and came back with a clean bill of health and
meets/exceeds specs.

I admit, I am new to 6m operation, but this constant report of being
off-frequency concerns me. Is there some calibration step, specific to 6m,
that I missed? I don't get this report on any other band, and have never
gotten it in over 6 years of operating this rig. My assumption is that if
it came back from the Mother Ship clean, and I've never used 6m before,
that it should be properly calibrated.

Any guidance/advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks and 73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
10-10 #74624  North Georgia Chapter #2038
PODXS 070 #1962
K3 #281, P3 #688 KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No signal at TP1 during Alignment and Test Part 2

2017-06-09 Thread Ron Manfredi

I agree with Don's comments on the soldering.

I am not familiar with the kit, but if you had to wind the torroid 
yourself,  were you sure to remove ALL the insulation from the wire ends 
before soldering them to the board?



73,

Ron   WA2EIO



On 6/9/2017 10:41 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Robert,

I just now had time to look at your photos.  It seems to me that your 
solder on T5 (and maybe elsewhere) looks like "balls" with convex 
sides.  That is indicitive of a solder connection that has not 
received enough heat.
A good solder connection should have a slight fillet and end up with 
obvious solder that has flowed out entirely onto the solder pad and 
also up onto the leads.  The edges of the solder should taper out to 
an almost invisible edge with a concave fillet of solder between the 
pad and the lead.
See the diagrams in the Soldering Tutorial available at the Elecraft 
website (you may have to search for it).


I suggest you remove the solder from any connection that looks like 
those and re-do them.  Do not apply so much solder to "pile it on" - 
that does no good.  Heat the solder pad and lead until you can see the 
solder flow out onto both.


Using a small gauge solder helps.  With large diameter solder, by the 
time you apply 'a little bit', that is already too much.  Save the 
large solder for antenna wires.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/8/2017 10:20 PM, Robert Forster wrote:


This should lead me to suspect T5 correct?
the soldering on the underside of the board for T5 looks ok (no ring 
for these points but the topside of the board looks rough! I used the 
USB microscope and took some photos.

Here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm2aNdeG




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Re: [Elecraft] BL2 Balun Question

2017-06-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Terry, to answer your question, that ground connection simply ensures the
balun pcb and the outer shield of the coax cable feeding the balun remain at
a low RF potential, even if you feed a fairly high impedance load. 

You are correct to connect them to the A and B terminals. Either wire to
either terminal is fine. The "balun" isolates the wires from  the coaxial
line. IF the balun and rig are close to each other, I'd not use the balun
for short end fed wire / counterpoise wire setups.

Note that the RF currents flowing inside a coaxial transmission line *are*
balanced if the line is terminated in a balanced load. The balance is
determined by the load, not the transmission line. 

Since RF flows on the surface of the conductors, there are actually three
(3) conductors in a coaxial transmission line: 1) The center conductor, 2)
The inside surface of the shield and 3) The outside surface of the shield. 

A properly installed coaxial line will prevent coupling between the inside
and outside of the shield. If, for example, one connects a coaxial line to a
dipole by unbrading a length of shield, twisting it and soldering it to one
side of the dipole the inner and outer surfaces of the coaxial shield are
now connected in parallel. RF currents now flow down the outside of the
shield in parallel with that side of the dipole. In some situations, this is
of little concern but if one wants the advantage of the inherent shielding
provided by coax, it is important to decouple the outer surface of the
shield from the inside surface.  

The "balun" can provide this function by suppressing RF currents flowing out
of the end of the coax that would otherwise flow down the outside of the
shield. Grounding the pcb keeps it at a low RF voltage even when feeding a
high impedance load, if the ground is effective at the frequency in use. 

73, Ron AC7AC


On 6/8/2017 11:47 AM, Terry Brown wrote:
> I have the BL2 Balun and use it for balanced lines to Coax.  Occasionally,
> when I am using a wire and counterpoise to the BNC binding posts, I try to
> match a shorter wire for 80 meters than what I really should due to lack
of
> space in RV sites.  I believe I am connecting the Balun correctly; hooking
> the long wire to A and the counterpoise to B on the Balun inputs.  I can
get
> a shorter wire to tune that way.
>
>   
>
> My question is:  what is the purpose of the GND connection on the Balun?
> Does it need to be grounded when in use?  Looking at the circuit diagram
in
> the manual, I don't think the counterpoise should be attached to the
ground
> connection?
>
>   
>
> I'd be interested in how others hook up their BL2 Baluns.
>
>   
>
> Thanks and 73's,
>
>   
>
> Terry de N7TB
>
> _

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Re: [Elecraft] QRP and Camping/Back packing in the Bay Area

2017-06-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Quite so. It's been a number of years since I drove up and down that
mountain several times a week servicing repeaters for General Communications
Engineering, but there were also a number of repeaters there in the old Land
Mobile frequency range of 30 to 50 MHz as well as the VHF and UHF repeaters.


Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2017 2:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRP and Camping/Back packing in the Bay Area

On 6/6/2017 2:32 PM, Chris Tate - N6WM wrote:

> Ya no campfires.. but this is a good time for Juniper campground at Mt 
> Diablo..  get some elevation on that qrp signal..  SOTA W6/CC-045.
> you can drive right up to your camp area..

But be aware that Mt. Diablo is "RF city" with all the communication sites
up there on both North Peak and South Peak.  (I used to maintain one.).  Not
much HF if any but plenty of VHF, UHF, and microwave.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] QRP and Camping/Back packing in the Bay Area

2017-06-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
For a combination of campfires and great operating environment you might
look into one of the beaches on the coast, such as New Brighton State Park
in Capitola, just south of Santa Cruz on the Monterey Bay. You probably
won't have any issues with a campfire in the locations designated for
camping and it's hard to beat the effects of that huge, unobstructed ground
plane to the west that we call the Pacific Ocean. 

I'm sure there are many other camping beaches that a little on-line research
will turn up. It's been a couple of decades since I lived in Capitola. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Satterwhite via
Elecraft
Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2017 1:27 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP and Camping/Back packing in the Bay Area

 Hello everyone, I'm looking to go camping or Backpacking this weekend with
my QRP set up and have some fun. Not to sure where a good place is in the
Bay area or surrounding areas for that would be. I would prefer to get away
from the crowds, some where I can have a small camp fire, bring my dog, and
of course have decent propagation.
My short list so far is Mt. Diablo, or Black Diamond mines.
Does anybody have any other suggestions? I'm just getting back into the
camping/back packing scene and would like to integrate QRP with it!
Thanks, Dave KM6P
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[Elecraft] Using the K3s with a Tokyo Hy-Power HL-1.5KFX amp.

2017-06-05 Thread Ron Manfredi
Is there a cable available to allow automatic band switching of this amp 
from the K3s?(Or advice on how to make one up.)   The amp and rig 
work well together, but automatic band switching would be nice!   The 
only reference I have found online refers to adding pull up resistors to 
the (older) K3 board. (KI03?)


Thanks for any suggestions.

Ron  WA2EIO.

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Re: [Elecraft] August 21st Eclipse Net?

2017-06-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Isn't that simply focused on WWVB propagation to see the effect on VLF
signals? 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Francis, W1TEF
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 12:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] August 21st Eclipse Net?

There is a plan to have study the effect.

http://eng.umb.edu/~eclipsemob/

Tom, W1TEF
Lexington, SC


On 6/2/2017 2:54 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:
> Does anyone know of any plans for any HF nets that will be running 
> specifically for observers of the Solar Eclipse on August 21st? I plan 
> to travel to Nebraska for the event, and will have radios with me (of 
> course.) Bruce Beford, N1RX
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2/3 Amplifiers

2017-05-28 Thread Ron Manfredi
The writer of the manual has a sense of humor.   You can download the 
manual, and on the last page of the "Troubleshooting" section the last 
problem listed is:  "Smoke comes from unit," and the solution, "Replace 
the smoke...only kidding, return to dealer."





On 5/28/2017 7:15 PM, pkhjr via Elecraft wrote:

Just ran across this the other day.  Anyone know have any experience with
this amp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xiegu-XPA125-QRP-ALC-Antenna-Tuner-Function-125W-HF-Ham-Radio-Power-Amplifier-US-/132206081348?hash=item1ec818b544:g:cVQAAOSw9OFZKOkD
  
73 Tex

ka5y



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX2-3-Amplifiers-tp7631213p7631225.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

2017-05-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Alan:

Use Rev B. Rev A of the instructions had an error that was corrected by an
errata. Apparently you don't have that errata. The change was subsequently
included in the Rev B printing. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of G4GNX
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 5:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPAIO3 modification - E740287

I'm in the process of upgrading our club's K3, new synth, DSP and a stack of
small mods.

I've come up against an issue that's causing me some confusion. The mod for
the KPAIO3 consist of a small electrolytic capacitor soldered to two pins on
the KPAIO3 module. I have two versions of instructions, one dated April 13
2016 - Revision A and the other dated August 10 2016 - Revision B. I presume
that Rev B supersedes Rev A, so I should follow Rev B?

The images on both sheets appear to show the KPAIO3A module, but describe
the KPAIO3 module, so I presume for the purpose of modding they're the same,
however the Negative lead of the new capacitor is shown going to different
points on the module, depending which instruction sheet is viewed and
looking at the trace layout on either, this doesn't make sense. Besides
that, the trace layout on the module that I have is different to both of the
paper descriptions.

Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum or know if any addendum has been
issued?

73,

Alan. G4GNX

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Re: [Elecraft] List overload - Additional

2017-05-27 Thread Ron Wilcox
Harry I would respectfully disagree with some of your post. Because of
questions from others I have learned a lot about using antennas with my KX2
while camping, I have been able to investigate side products that work with
my K3s and have purchased a few of them and they have enhanced my operating
with my rigs. I would not have known about them otherwise.  I have seen
posts about some RFI and followed some suggestions that has helped reduce
my RFI. These may not have been directly elecraft products but they have
really helped me. Some forums are too strict for me and not very friendly,
this one has just the right balance for me. Not having an electronics
background I have learned  a lot. It reminds me of another forum I really
like, DXlab where no question is to be slighted, and it is a very open
learning format. I feel the same about this one. Nurturing a learning
environment for all in the hobby who buy elecraft, to me, is
important.There have been a few threads that should have been stopped and
were. Being offended easily, being grumpy, or unwilling to entertain
other's views is not needed. I find it very easy to delete posts I do not
need. I hope you stay on because it sounds like you have experience and can
help others who might be new or not have a technology background. Have a
great day.

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73       Ron Wilcox KF7ZN
RN, BSN
Secretary Utah DX Club
ARRL & W5YI VE
ARRL  Instructor

On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 11:38 AM, Rose  wrote:

> Actually Harry, how else would an owner of Elecraft equipment easily become
> aware of what's available?
>
> No different than a vehicle vendor offering floor mats manufactured by
> another vendor.
>
> Two after-market vendors come to mind that are Elecraft-specific, and are
> occasionally "plugged" by list members.
> I purchased their products after becoming aware of them on the list. Much
> more efficient than a Google search.
>
> FWIW ...
>
> K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] LiIon types, and safety (was: Fire in the house li-ion)

2017-05-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I have found that having a KXBT2 around is very handy in the shop. If I have
the K2, K3, KX3 or other 13V rig on the bench and want to power it up for
checks, to run an alignment, etc., I just plug in the KXBT2. 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Stephen Prior
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 3:08 PM
To: Wayne Burdick
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] LiIon types, and safety (was: Fire in the house
li-ion)

Which is why I've given up on homebrewing an extra pack - albeit for
external use - I have bought another KXBT2!

73 Stephen, G4SJP

On 24 May 2017 at 22:01, Wayne Burdick  wrote:


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Re: [Elecraft] Clever K3s cooling scheme?

2017-05-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Right, Roy. It's a whole different cooling system. The K2 has an EXTERNAL
heat sink. The fan assists by cooling the components inside the KPA100 amp,
pushing air in across the components and out through holes around the
forward edge of the heat sink. The heat sink fins are on top of the K2 in
open air.

As you note, the fans exhaust warm air from the heat sink inside the K3 out
through the back.  

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roy
Koeppe
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2017 5:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Clever K3s cooling scheme?

Re all the fans postings, it appears my K3s uses convection cooling during
light usage periods, drawing air in at the rear, backwards thru the idle
fans, and out the top. When fans engage, air flow is reversed...drawn in
thru the top and out the back. "Simplicity is ingenuity."

73,   Roy   K6XK 


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Re: [Elecraft] BL2 -- Antenna Balun Usage

2017-05-22 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It is useful to remember that a so-called "balun" is nothing more than a length 
of transmission line - most commonly parallel wires. The line needs to be long 
enough to have sufficient inductance to produce balanced currents at the 
terminated end. Greater inductance is achievable by winding the transmission 
line into a coil, and even more if that coil has a ferrite core. 

So, as Bill notes, the impedance it presents to the source (your rig) will vary 
based on the impedance of the load, just like any other transmission line. 

73, Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill 
Leonard N0CU
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2017 12:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BL2 -- Antenna Balun Usage

I am no expert when it comes to baluns, but here are several comments that are 
based upon some research that I have recently done on the subject:

1) Now, unlike in the past, the most commonly used balun is the current balun. 
Most current baluns use some type of transmission line (if they do, they are 
called transmission line transformers). If the load on a balun’s output does 
not represent a 1:1 SWR for the balun, the impedance measured at the input of 
the balun will be close to the balun load impedance only when the electrical 
length of the balun’s line is a multiple of an electrical half wavelength. I 
suggest that you try putting 25 ohm and 100 ohm resistive loads on your baluns 
and see what you measure at the input. The BL-2 uses a relatively short length 
of coax (~12 in I believe), however, 12 in of RG58 will show 80+j33 at its 
input at 30 MHz when terminated with 100 ohms (using TLW). My high power DXE 
1:1 current choke (balun) has a much longer length of coax than the BL-2. It 
reads 43 +j32 ohms at 30MHz with a 25 ohm load (measured with a VNA 2180 
network analyzer). If you can determine the length and type of coax in the 
balun that you are using, you can use ARRL’s TLW software to estimate what the 
actual balun load impedance is by inputting the line parameters and the 
impedance you measure at the balun input.

2) What happens to balun performance as the SWR increases is a question that I 
have yet to find an answer to. I am not aware of any balun manufacturer that 
attempts to quantify this behavior with any spec. There seems to be general 
agreement that baluns do not like highly reactive loads.

3) Balun heating is a complex issue that many “experts” don’t agree on.
Looking at it simplistically, there are two sources of heating in current 
baluns (voltage baluns are very different than current baluns when it comes to 
heating). The first source of heating is the loss in the transmission line used 
in the balun. If a short length of high quality coax is used, the loss (ie, 
heating) should be relatively small. However, the confined space and poor heat 
transfer in the balun housing could mean that even a small amount of loss can 
be problematic in a poorly designed, high power balun.
What many “experts” don’t realize is that the normal (differential mode) signal 
flowing down the coax does not cause any heating in the ferrite core in a 
current balun (this is not the case with a voltage balun). This is because this 
signal is completely contained between the outer surface of the center 
conductor and inner surface of the shield in the coax. What does cause heating 
in a current balun is the common mode current flowing on the outer surface of 
the shield on the coax used in the balun. This is the unwanted current that the 
balun is intended to reduce. Also, a number of articles claim that ferrite core 
temperatures can reach critical values (where the core fails) well before the 
core saturates and thermal runaway occurs.

4) Heating from common mode current is another area where the “experts”
don’t agree. Heating due to common mode current is a function of transmitter 
power, design of the balun (ie, type of core, core size/mix, style of balun, 
heat transfer of housing, balun load impedance, etc) and the “system” issues 
that affect the balun’s performance. Depending on the values of the important 
system parameters, adding a balun can either increase, decrease, or have no 
effect upon the common mode current flowing on a transmission line. The common 
mode current and the resistive component of the balun’s common mode impedance 
are critical factors that determine the amount of heating in the balun’s 
ferrite core. A surprising number of “experts” make claims for power handling 
capabilities of various types of baluns without even mentioning the importance 
of these “system” issues. Tom Rauch (W8JI) and Tom Thompson (W0IVJ) have 
written articles that use EZNEC to quantitatively show the importance of these 
“system” issues when it comes to estimating common mode currents on 
transmission lines. However, as enlightening as these articles are, I am 
doubtful that EZNEC can be used to accurate

Re: [Elecraft] Hallicrafters HA-1

2017-05-21 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Are you using Mode B? I believe the Elecraft rigs default to A which is the 
Curtiss system. It drives me nuts but Mode B works beautifully on this 
"Accu-keyer" operator. 

BTW, in the Boy Scouts I tried unsuccessfully to decode by sight. Guess I was 
no better than the guy on the Carpathia who was unable to decode "This is the 
Titanic. Come quickly. We are sinking". He finally decided the mast light was 
defective. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes 
Stewart
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 6:05 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hallicrafters HA-1

I'm approaching my 60th year in ham radio and have a confession; I learned 
Morse with my Boy Scout Handbook (still have it) by sight not sound.  
Consequently, I've never been a very good CW op, although I have a 20 WPM Extra 
license.  As a Novice I used a Western Electric "Pole-Changer" straight key 
given to me by a non-ham retired telegrapher friend, (That's still on the 
operating desk).  I never even tried a bug, but when I built my first 
Accu-Keyer I finally had some help.  I used it with a number of rigs and when 
the Accu-Memory came out I was in heaven.

I build two of them at first and gave one to my friend George Badger, W6TC, who 
liked it too.  Then I built a third one for the heart of my meteor scatter/EME 
station.  With several handfulls of TTL logic I added a timer/sequencer that 
used the power line as a time base to automatically control the station on the 
various sequences used for MS and EME. Preamp switching/relay delay, TX delay, 
etc were all timed by the keyer and the "canned" messages were in memory.  All 
I had to do was listen and select the next message as the QSO progressed. (That 
one is still in my storage building too.)

Among its wonderful ergonomics the TS870 that I had before buying a K3 was an 
Accu-Keyer emulation.   I never had trouble sending CW with that rig.  Enter 
the 
K3 (and now a K3S).  I can't even send my call gracefully.  I was prepared to 
buy the Idiom Press unit when they went out of business.

I would love Accu-Keyer emulation in my K3s.

Wes  N7WS

On 5/15/2017 12:57 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:
> This is one of the things that has always bugged me about internal rig keyers 
> (Elecraft included).  And as as result, I’ve almost never used them.  I’ve 
> been using an Accu-Keyer (or emulator) for so long that nothing else is 
> comfortable.
>
> I moved from my original home brewed Accu-Keyer (which I still have, refuse 
> to part with,  and occasionally use) to the enhanced Accu-Memory version, to 
> an MM-3 (with emulation — and still one of the best stand-alone keyers ever 
> made) to the Idiom Press CMOS 4 (with emulation) because of its small form 
> factor.
>
> It seems that something as basic as Accu-Keyer timing with auto-character 
> (and even auto-word) space isn’t exactly “rocket science”.  So how about it 
> Elecraft?   Accu-Keyer emulation would make a better than run-of-the-mill 
> update!!  For the K3, KX3, KX2.  And I wouldn’t have to carry the CMOS 4 in 
> my KX3 bag or fiddle with more cables on the table with the K3.  I’m probably 
> not alone here, given the popularity of the Accu-Keyer.  I can send better CW 
> with a bug than I can with paddles and an electronic keyer that lacks ACS.  
> Maybe it’s my (old) age or just practice ...  :-)
>
>> But - it didn't have auto character spacing which came out with the 
>> WB4VVF Accu-Keyer (hint-hint - so it's not OT after all).
>>
> Grant NQ5T
> K3 #2091, KX3 #8342
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 overheating?

2017-05-21 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Don: I guess you never noticed my response to Ken that I posted last Friday.
The fan moves air INTO the K2, across the PA and it comes out around the
heat sink fins near the front of the K2, just as George said.

I suggested Ken contact you after he determined that he had in fact set the
bias current correctly and the fan was operating correctly because you work
on K2s quite often. It's been five years since mine was apart!  

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2017 6:19 PM
To: George Winship, NC5G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 overheating?

George,

I will check the fan air flow direction tomorrow because I am uncertain.
If you have the label out and the wires on the correct holes, yours is
likely OK.

There are 2 philosophies about the fan direction.  One is that you should
exhaust the heat and let the assembly draw cool air across the hot
components.

The other says to let the fan "blow" on the hot components.
The major difference between the two is that a blower fan adds heat to the
air (due to the work produced by the fan), but adds the benefit of directing
the air flow to the area to be cooled.
An exhaust fan does not add its work product heat to the air being moved,
but the cool air cannot be directed as well because it is spread over a
large area in the enclosure box.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/21/2017 11:26 AM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:
> Interesting. I built my K2/100 about 17 years ago and the fan has always
> drawn air into the cabinet and exhausted over the heatsink. So, I
rechecked
> the manual and disassembled my rig to check for proper assembly. Fan label
> is facing out and wires are soldered to the right pads(red=+, black=-).
Was
> there maybe a change in later models?
> 
> 73, George
> 
> 
> 
> Make certain the fan is mounted with the label out and that the red wire
> is in the +hole and the black one in the -hole.
> The fan should exhaust the hot air.  Cooler air flows in at the front of
> the heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-100-overheating-tp7630828p7630883.ht
ml
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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> Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

2017-05-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I don't have a Hex beam, but for my wire antennas strung in the trees I use
this stuff:

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/syn-dbr-187-500?seid=dxese1&cm_mmc=pla-g
oogle-_-shopping-_-dxese1-_-synthetic-textile-industries&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0v_IB
RCEzKHK0KiCrKMBEiQA3--1NnAInx_Rd5SOr2M6T-EFGXAMt2kyFHAtRWJdawQOdhAaAsN58P8HA
Q

It has survived nicely holding up a wire antenna for ten years so far in
high winds, sunshine, rain, snow, and freezing weather. It's hard to imagine
that a Hex beam would put more strain on it. 

However, I am in Oregon. The rope is advertised as UV resistant but we don't
get nearly as much UV as some other areas. (Sunblock salesmen go broke
around here.) 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic
Rosenthal
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2017 12:35 PM
To: Joe Subich, W4TV
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

Why do you think it will "significantly outperform the hex beams?" 
The point about uv is well taken re fiberglass, but I don't know what the
cords on all the hexbeam versions are made of. There are uv resistant
materials available.
I wouldn't say an 11 element yagi with capacity hats on the elements has an
especially low visual profile!

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 20 May 2017, at 19:36, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
> 
> On 5/20/2017 11:32 AM, Terry Brown wrote:
> > These beams are not cheap,  I don't want to be taking the beam down 
> > and replacing main structural components every 5 yrs.
> >
> > Can anyone with a hex beam comment on this?
> 
> Your concerns are well placed with antennas made of fiberglass and 
> dacron/kevlar cords.
> 
> Instead of a hexbeam, I would recommend looking at the Innovantennas
> XR5T: 
> <http://innovantennas.com/antennas-a-accesories/on-line-shop/view/prod
> uctdetails/virtuemart_product_id/435/virtuemart_category_id/55.html>,
> or the JK Antennas Navassa 5:
> <https://jkantennas.com/jk-navassa-5.html>
> 
> Both have boom lengths of 12 feet or less, cover 20 - 10 meters and 
> have optional 6 meter add-ons.  Either should significantly out 
> perform the hex beams and - since they are aluminum antennas that do 
> not use UV sensitive fiberglass, kevlar and dacron components - should 
> significantly outlast the hexbeam with significantly less maintenance.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

2017-05-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Any horizontally-polarized antenna needs to be at least 1/2 wavelength above
ground for optimum performance, e.g. 32 feet up on 20 meters, 16 feet up on
10 meters. 

They will work at lower heights of course, but at reduced gain as they are
lower. 

20 feet sounds like a reasonable compromise for a 14 MHz and up antenna,
especially since the actual apparent ground is usually somewhat below the
surface of the earth in most locations.

73, Ron AC7AC  

-Original Message-

I have also read they only need to be up about 20 feet high. 
Rich, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

2017-05-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've yet to have a failure either. My interest was in whether the bags
really do the job they are supposed to do. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry
Schieler
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 11:09 AM
To: 'Ron D'Eau Claire'; 'Bill W4ZV'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

No, I have not seen any fire, smoking or dangerous issues, Ron.  But I
always use the recommended chargers and charging formats.  I always charge
them in the fire bag and never indoors or unattended.  Like anything else
that's dangerous, they demand respect.  

73  Terry  W0FM

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:r...@cobi.biz]
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 12:42 PM
To: 'Terry Schieler'; 'Bill W4ZV'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

Have you ever had a battery failure and fire in one of them? 

The ones I've seen on line that state they are tested under actual failure
conditions are more than $500 USD. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry
Schieler
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 9:30 AM
To: 'Bill W4ZV'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

I have been using charging bags similar to these for over 6 years to charge
LiPO batteries for my fleet of RC airplanes.  Very prevalent and highly
recommended within the RC hobby field.  Not necessarily this specific brand,
but I've never had an issue.

73,  Terry, W0FM


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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

2017-05-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Have you ever had a battery failure and fire in one of them? 

The ones I've seen on line that state they are tested under actual failure 
conditions are more than $500 USD. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry 
Schieler
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 9:30 AM
To: 'Bill W4ZV'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

I have been using charging bags similar to these for over 6 years to charge 
LiPO batteries for my fleet of RC airplanes.  Very prevalent and highly 
recommended within the RC hobby field.  Not necessarily this specific brand, 
but I've never had an issue.

73,  Terry, W0FM


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 overheating?

2017-05-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Ken: 

The fan should be drawing air IN, not blowing it out. Is it oriented correctly 
(label out) and wired correctly? 

Normally the K2/100 at full 100 watts out for a long time before the 
temperature gets too high. I did some thermal testing some years ago that had a 
brick on the key up to half an hour at a time. 

Did you carefully set the transmit bias current as described in the assy 
manual? See page 51 of the current (Rev H2) manual. Excessive bias current will 
certainly result in excessive heat. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of N4KS via 
Elecraft
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 5:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 overheating?

 I recently added the KPA100 to my K2. The heat sink gets VERY hot at any power 
level above 11 watts (that's when the amp kicks in). The fan is running at high 
speed and pulling air OUT of the box. Just wondering if this is normal.
Ken/N4KS
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Re: [Elecraft] OT -- Ham radio operators contribute to protecting the Earth

2017-05-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Very interesting Phil thanks, but I believe there were far more VLF and MF
transmissions back in the time period from 1900 to 1940 than there are
today. 

For a long time it was believed that longer wavelengths (lower frequencies)
were essential for long-range communications. That is why shipboard
communications and point-to-point communications were focused on the
frequencies below 450 kHz - the lower the better. 

The AM "standard broadcast band" was established in about 550 to 1600 kHz
believing that those frequencies were only useful for short ranges up to a
few tens of miles, which is what the commercial broadcast station
allocations were designed to serve. 

Of course us Hams were given use of the shorter wavelengths (200 meters or
less in wavelengths - or about 1600 kHz or above in frequency) because it
was "obvious" someone would be lucky to communicate across a small town with
them, if that far. 

And then that all changed when a few Hams broke away from QRMing each other
on 200 meters and started exploring the shorter wavelengths. 

Now there is comparatively little going on down there. As the article
mentions, submarine comms are at VLF. Low powered aircraft beacons, some GPS
correction beacons (also low powered) and some Ham activity under the
special licenses. I haven't listened down there in a while but that's all
that comes to mind. 

So the source of the "bubble" mentioned in the article seems a mystery -- or
is it something that has been there since Marconi launched the radio
business and is now just being noticed? 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
Hystad
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 5:23 PM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] OT -- Ham radio operators contribute to protecting the
Earth

I thought some other ham operators might like to read how they are helping
to build a protective bubble around the Earth.

https://www.theatlantic.com/science/archive/2017/05/wow-guys/527193/

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

2017-05-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Ouch, Fred!  

One of the standard airline emergency procedures for a smoking/burning/fizzing 
phone or other personal electronics is to submerge it in water or wrap wet 
towels around it to reduce the temperature and keep it from igniting nearby 
flammable materials. 

It's my understanding that the weakness is more mechanical than chemical. You 
may know that the insulation within modern Li-Poly (and similar) battery cells 
is in the order of a few molecules thick. If you could see the insulating layer 
with your naked eye, such an insulator next to a human hair would have the hair 
looking like a mountain range by comparison. 

Once one insulator is breached for any reason, the heat released is usually 
sufficient to cause other inter-cell insulators in the pack to breach in a 
cascading effect that releases all the energy within a few seconds, hence the 
heat and if anything even slightly flammable is near it, flames, smoke and 
gasses.

It all comes down to the care with which the battery was assembled and tested, 
and the care with which it is used - not overcharging it, not subjecting the 
battery to excessive shock, etc.

While I have some of those batteries in my cameras, personal electronics, etc., 
they are never stored or charged near anything won't burst into flames even if 
subjected to molten iron for half a minute or more. 

A good friend often describes cellular phones as a 'great technology that 
ALMOST works'. I put modern high-energy capacity batteries in the same 
category. 

73, Ron AC7AC





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred 
Jensen
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

I was using a tiny Li-Poly pack about the size of a small matchbox that I got 
from the local RC model store with my KX1 when it began to smoke.  
Fortunately,I had it on a pigtail, was out on the deck in a Spartan Sprint, and 
could unplug it and fling it over the railing to the gravel driveway.

There were no flames or major explosions, but there were a lot of sparks and 
quite a bit of smoke for such a small package.  The pyrotechnic display went on 
for perhaps 40-50 seconds, followed by some low-key fizzing and popping.  It 
left a burned mark in the gravel when it was cool. NOTE: This happened while 
discharging the battery, and I wasn't transmitting at the moment.

I struggled through required Chemistry in college, but I did learn enough about 
that particular column in the Periodic Table to avoid getting the hose. [:-)

I have always charged all of my lithium-ish batteries outside from a solar 
panelso they contain only green and no brown electronsfor events where that 
matters. I usually put the battery in a metal coffee can. 
Ibelieve, but do not know for sure, that LiFePO4 chemistry is quite a bit more 
stable than others.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn


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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

2017-05-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That is a great warning William. It is good to hear the animals and people got 
out safely. 

As with so many things, all it takes is one bad unit to create a disaster. 

I see it was a Go-Pro battery. Is there a make or brand name other than Go-Pro 
on them?

Dat is een grote waarschuwing William. Het is goed om de dieren te horen en 
mensen komen veilig uit.

Net zoals bij zoveel dingen, is het maar een slechte eenheid om een ramp te 
maken.

Ik zie dat het een Go-Pro batterij was. Is er een merk of merknaam anders dan 
Go-Pro op hen?

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of William 
Lagerberg
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 2:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

Guys,

I want to give you a advice, my shack it (was) in the basement (cellar??) I do 
all my thing for the hobby there.
A collega of mine asked me to take a look at two Go-Pro LI-Ion accu's because 
they where not loading anymore.

So I put the first one on the loader for 8 till 9 hours and checked it and it 
was ok  ( with 10% loading current) Then I dit put the second one in same place 
at 10 in the morning at 3 my daughter called me there is a fire.
We rusted to the cellar but I could not enter it was filled with dark smoke.

My shack is gone and 90 % off my house, I have insurance don’t now if it is 
enough to cover all of my Elecraft stuff

My K1, my own build K2 my K3  and my KX3 are gone, I found my K1 in 20 cm off 
water really down under, I clean’t it with fresh water.
After that flushed it with pure alcohol. It is completely taken apart today as 
far as is possible.
I Hope it will survive I will let it dry for a lot of day’s

My K2 is melted the same as my P3 and my K3 perhaps I can order the outside of 
both, but a am still not allowed to enter the basement so I don’t know how it 
looks at the inside.

So finale the message is please take care with li-ion accuse battery’s. It did 
cost me our house in 1 hour.

http://www.nhnieuws.nl/nieuws/206119/bewoner-vlucht-met-dieren-pand-uit-vanwege-grote-brand
 
<http://www.nhnieuws.nl/nieuws/206119/bewoner-vlucht-met-dieren-pand-uit-vanwege-grote-brand>

Regards William Pe1bsb
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange SWR change on 20 at

2017-05-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Dave: I thought you said it happened after you sent CQ+Call a few times.
When a core heats to its Curie temp, the inductance change happens
"instantly". You are right - if it happens instantly when you hit the key it
is not heating. Something is breaking down. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Cole
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2017 10:39 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Strange SWR change on 20 at

I added the SWR meter...  My actual SWR jumps instantly up about1 SWR
unit...  I believe it is a bad connection on the Challenger where the main
antenna connects to the 20 meter tuning stub...

Just sort of surprised me to see a second person with the exact same issue
is all...  SWR change is instant, so it is not heating...  Happens at 30
watts, or 1 KW...  Time for a rebuild.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 05/13/2017 10:07 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
> Hmmm...  I am having the exact same issue...  My SWR changes after a 
> few transmissions, then returns...  Up until now, I have been 
> suspecting my antenna...  Time to add an external SWR bridge between 
> the tuner and antenna as a permanent thing...
>
> 73s and thanks,
> Dave
> NK7Z
> http://www.nk7z.net
>
> On 05/13/2017 09:07 AM, Terry Brown wrote:
>> I recently started using my horizontal loop that is about a full 
>> wavelength on 80, for 20 meters.  I took down my yagi as we are 
>> moving; drat!  My Horizontal Loop is at 40 ft.  height and fed with 
>> 450 window line into a 4:1 voltage balun with about 15 ft. of coax to 
>> rig.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am running 100 watts through my KXPA100.  I tune a frequency in the 
>> CW portion of 20 to about 1.2 :1 and start sending CQ.  After about 3 
>> to
>> 4  3x3
>> CQ's,, the SWR goes off the charts and power drops to zero.   I can
>> retune
>> the antenna and the process repeats itself.  20 meters is the only 
>> band affected.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am wondering if I am having RF problems in that part of the 20 
>> meter bands This only occurs on 20 meters.  The Amp is grounded, but 
>> the KX3 is not bonded to the Amp.
>>
>>
>>
>> I would appreciate any advice.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks and 73's,
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry de N7TB
>>
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>> d...@nk7z.net
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange SWR change on 20 at

2017-05-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It sounds to me like Bill has the answer. As the torodial core heats up it
eventually reaches its Curie temperature at which its magnetic properties
(and so inductance of the coil wound on it) changes dramatically. If the
torodial core doesn't get so hot it cracks, it will return to "normal" when
it cools. 

Personally, I like air wound coils wherever there may be a wide range of
impedances. Air wound coils are bigger, but air does not saturate and
dissipate RF as heat. All one needs to worry about with air wound coils is
big enough wire to avoid excessive resistive losses at high RF currents and
sufficient spacing to avoid arcing or corona discharges when the RF voltage
is high, but torodial inductors have the same issues was well.  

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2017 10:19 AM
To: Terry Brown
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Strange SWR change on 20 at

What's the antenna impedance before the ATU is activated?  You may be
heating up the BALUN due to big mis-match. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 13, 2017, at 12:07 PM, Terry Brown  wrote:
> 
> I recently started using my horizontal loop that is about a full 
> wavelength on 80, for 20 meters.  I took down my yagi as we are 
> moving; drat!  My Horizontal Loop is at 40 ft.  height and fed with 
> 450 window line into a 4:1 voltage balun with about 15 ft. of coax to rig.
> 
> 
> 
> I am running 100 watts through my KXPA100.  I tune a frequency in the 
> CW portion of 20 to about 1.2 :1 and start sending CQ.  After about 3 to 4
3x3
> CQ's,, the SWR goes off the charts and power drops to zero.   I can retune
> the antenna and the process repeats itself.  20 meters is the only 
> band affected.
> 
> 
> 
> I am wondering if I am having RF problems in that part of the 20 meter 
> bands This only occurs on 20 meters.  The Amp is grounded, but the KX3 
> is not bonded to the Amp.
> 
> 
> 
> I would appreciate any advice.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and 73's,
> 
> 
> 
> Terry de N7TB
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Product Announcement

2017-05-13 Thread Ron Manfredi
I second Howie's comments on Rose's bag's quality and capability.  The 
LowePro is really a camera bag, and in fine Ham tradition we have 
adapted it, but Rose's was designed specifically for radio work.



Ron.  WA2EIO


On 5/13/2017 8:56 AM, Howard Hoyt wrote:

Hi Chris,

The CS60 LowePro case I have seems well made, but having owned a 
Rose's bag for my KX3 for years, I can wholeheartedly recommend them!  
One thing about the LowePro case, it is obvious studying the internal 
layout it was not designed for holding ham gear.  For instance, the 
lid of it begs to have stuff stored in the little pockets...but then 
they bang against the face of the KX2.  When you order a case from 
Rose, you get to customize it any way you want, and she has made so 
many cases her recommendations are spot on as well.  And, her 
workmanship is superb...I have dragged that poor KX3 and case over 
hill and dale for years now and it has not yet popped a stitch or torn 
anywhere..amazing quality.


Just my $0.02 worth...

Cheers & 73,

Howie - WA4PSC



On 5/13/2017 2:34 AM, Chris Tate - N6WM wrote:

Howie,

thanks as always for your prompt response, and yes much of what you 
say makes sense.


For me, the KX2's small size is its true market value.  It's a rig 
that can be taken everywhere and anywhere, and is easily explained in 
most odd customs situations particularly in carry on scenarios.  Its 
portability is key.


I imagine with the right case there is not an issue I of course 
purchased the smallest of cases and have managed to cram the radio, 
along with reasonable antennas for 20m up into the case along with 
the rig.


Its really the antennas and not the radio that are the problem at 
this point.  Perhaps I will research better cases, and perhaps so 
discussions with Rose are in order as well (thanks for your email as 
well Rose).  Just trying to keep everything as compact as possible.


Truly a wonderful group of supporters out here!!

Chris
N6WM

-Original Message-
From: Howard Hoyt [mailto:hh...@mebtel.net]
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 2:57 PM
To: Chris Tate - N6WM ; Elecraft Reflector 
; k...@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Product Announcement

Hi Chris,

I bought the LowePro CS60 bag from Elecraft, and with the Kx22 and 
GEMS handle and cover on it, the KX2 fits fine in the bag. It is true 
that the handles and cover stick up 1/2" farther than the knobs, but 
as you point out, with the cover the knobs and display are protected, 
and the
CS60 bag still zips shut without any fuss. It is just my personal 
preference, but given the LowePro bag is soft-sided and offers little 
impact protection, I strongly prefer to have the GEMS cover in place 
when traveling with the $800 KX2, it is inexpensive protection for sure!


All this being said, if we get enough requests for a heatsink without 
the handles I am sure we can do it.


Cheers & 73,

Howie - WA4PSC
www.proaudioeng.com


On 5/12/2017 5:24 PM, Chris Tate - N6WM wrote:
Howie are you guys gonna make one without the protective handles?  
Just wonderin.. its gonna be hard to stuff it into the stock bag,  
heatsink may fit but definitely not the handles.  I am sure they are 
great for added knob protection just unfortunately at the expense of 
the travel footprint.  not a gripe.. just a friendly observation.






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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for Oregon/Idaho Eclipse accommodation

2017-05-07 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Here on the Oregon Coast overcast is common, particularly before noon. The
National Weather Service currently predicts we have a 64% chance of overcast
skies on August 21st, at least in the morning hours.

If we get to see any more than a darkening of the sky, we will consider
ourselves lucky. 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
kev...@coho.net
Sent: Sunday, May 7, 2017 4:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for Oregon/Idaho Eclipse accommodation

Oregon's weather is pretty predictable.  August is in our dry season.  
It is very rarely cloudy let alone is the weather inclement.  There is a
very high chance of it being clear during the eclipse.

 73 & Clear Skies,

 Kevin.  KD5ONS


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Re: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List

2017-05-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I suspect he meant Power Amplifier (PA) not PS. Such is the danger of acronyms. 
They can start wars! 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Saturday, May 6, 2017 6:53 PM
To: Clay Autery
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List

What PS?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 6, 2017, at 8:27 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> Nice idea  Once the 15dB limit is removed, you can use the 10 watt 
> to drive the KPA1500 or (gain limit modded) any amp you choose...
> 
> If you found a dead 100W K3 PS, you could use the bracketing, back 
> panel, et al as needed...  Lot of room if you dump the PS...
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
>> On 5/5/2017 7:23 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
>> At one point I considered taking a K3/10 and installing Transverters where 
>> the PA deck would go.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  From: Bill Johnson 
>> To: Phil Hystad ; Elecraft 
>> 
>> Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 7:17 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List
>> 
>> Phil,
>> 
>> Wayne and Eric are smart dudes, for sure.  I don't know that they are into 
>> VHF, UHF to the degree needed to do what you ask.  They do have a team of 
>> engineers, also very bright and HAM interested, so the request may 
>> eventually take hold.  I would love a K2 or K3 style platform for VHF, UHF 
>> based on the Elecraft design features to include features such as full 
>> duplex, etc.  I don't know what the market for such equipment might be, but 
>> they might wish to respond to our interest?!  I would enjoy such equipment 
>> and they could allow space for modules to be added which would include even 
>> higher freq stuff for those who wanted it. 
>> 
>> 72 & 73,
>> Bill
>> K9YEQ, FT’er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100,  KAT500, W2, etc. 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>> Phil Hystad
>> Sent: Friday, May 5, 2017 12:36 PM
>> To: Elecraft 
>> Subject: [Elecraft] VHF+UHF Radio Wish List
>> 
>> I was planning to ask a question about the 2-meter option board for K3/K3S 
>> but thought to ask this question instead.
>> 
>> Has there ever been interest (by others of this forum) or discussion from 
>> Wayne & Eric about a new radio, one specifically dedicated to VHF and UHF 
>> with satellite comms (Doppler) and other features.  I am thinking of 
>> possibly a three band radio but at least two (2 meter, 70 cm) and optionally 
>> 1240-1300 MHz.  All mode of course!  10 to 15 watts output would be all that 
>> is necessary (IMO).
>> 
>> There are other radios on the market but they all have one thing in 
>> common as

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with subrx - intermittent main RX problem and pwr out

2017-05-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
An intermittent or open circuit problem that has occurred on occasion is
caused by misaligning TMP male and pressing it too hard into the socket.
What can happen is that the male pin hits the metal edge of the female
socket inside the connector and actually pushes the metal socket out of its
housing. The result is that the female socket edge is just resting against
the male pin rather than having the male pin inside the socket even though
the connector appears properly mated. This results in an intermittent
contact. 

The solution is to visually inspect the various TMP connectors on the KRX3
board as well as those on the KREF3 and Aux KSYN3 board. Looking into the
socket you should see the metal receptacle inside the white plastic
(Teflon?). IF all you can see is plastic, you may have pushed the metal
socket back out of the connector. 

You can get access to the back of the connector and push the metal
receptacle back in place but it will likely tend to bend again more easily
now that it has been pushed out of place once. Be especially careful of it
when plugging in the TMP cable.

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of la3rk
Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 12:32 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 with subrx - intermittent main RX problem and pwr out

I have a K3 approx 8 years old. Fully equipped with subrx, 100W PA, antenna
tuner and in/out module.

When I connect the subrx, the main rx sometimes loses signal and at the same
time power out goes to zero.

Looking at the diagrams, I suspect there is an intermittent contact problem
in relay K1 shown on the SUBIN schematic. This relay is responsible for
sending antenna signals to the splitter when using the subrx and also
connects the splitter output back to the main rx. The same contacts on the
relay is also a path for the low level tx signal. An intermittent contact on
this relay and particularly contacts 3-4 could explain the behaviour I see.

Has anybody experience relay failures and if yes have they managed to change
out the relay?

Sending the K3 back to Elecraft is not a preferred option as shipping
charges to/from Norway will be fairly expensive.

Regards
LA3RK - Olaf Devik



-
73 de LA3RK Olaf
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-with-subrx-intermittent-main-RX-prob
lem-and-pwr-out-tp7630294.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Accessories For Sale

2017-05-02 Thread Ron Freeman
I have an Elecraft K3/100-F for sale-the radio is factory assembled and I'm
the original owner. The radio is in excellent cosmetic condition and has
never been operated out of the shack, around pets or smoke.

 

I recently shipped the radio to Elecraft for migration to a K3S, updates and
a checkout. The radio was returned yesterday and is in a sealed box.  A
letter from Elecraft, dated 24 April 17, states the radio "meets or exceeds
all factory specifications".  Elecraft options and/or updates include the
following:

 

1. KPA3-F: Antenna Tuner

2. KXV3B-F: RX Ant, IF Out (for P3), Pre-Amps & Transverter Interface (The
upgraded board used in the K3S).

3. KSYN3AUPGD-F: Synthesizer board (The upgraded board used in the K3S).

4. 250hz CW Filter.

5. Numerous minor Elecraft installed and documented updates too numerous to
list including the "KPOD Ready" modification that provides power to the KPOD
via the RJ45 Jack on the bottom panel.

 

The firm price is $2,000 plus shipping.

 

I also have available a PR6 pre-amplifier (replaced by the new KX3VB-F
above), the original K3 synthesizer and KX3VA interface boards.  

 

Finally, available for sale is a MicroHam Micro KEYER MKII, DB37 cable and
other related accessories including keypad and iLink cable for the SteppIR
controller.   This equipment is also in excellent condition-I'm the original
owner. Please inquire regarding pricing.

 

73//k5mm/ron

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

2017-05-01 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've been around this reflector for 17 years - so far - and this issue has
come up many, many times.

Here are the guidelines Eric posted most recently:

"The PRIMARY purposes of this list are to provide a -polite- and enjoyable
forum for discussing Elecraft products, share mods, new ideas, feedback to
Elecraft, share experiences using our products, troubleshooting ideas etc.

"The Elecraft email list server (reflector) is provided to further the
discussion of Elecraft products and related items. It serves as a forum for
the discussion of both technical and operating topics including product
features, construction and debug problems, sharing your enthusiasm and
impressions from using our products and more general ham radio related
topics of interest to our customers.

"(Please -strongly- resist the urge to reply to an OT topic once it has gone
to 5 posts. Once it hits ten posts do not reply at all (go off list if you
feel the urge to continue.) Also, please do not try to always get the 'last
word'.."

--

Note there is no prohibition of OT topics, only that the number of posts be
kept down. And he specifically makes provision for "... general ham radio
related topics of interest..."

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Michael Walker
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 8:12 AM
To: EricJ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Equipment chat group

Hi Eric

Actually, it doesn't go in in other forums to this extent.  And, when it
does, it is shut down.  This forum is the wild wild west.  :)

I posted a list of all the forums I am a member of, and they are all focus
on their charter.

Mike va3mw

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Re: [Elecraft] Audio On K3 (solved)

2017-05-01 Thread Ron Manfredi
I still sometimes forget to _read_ the front panel display.   Not quite 
the same as the old way of  looking at a knob pointer!   But the K3s is 
certainly in a different league from those old rigs.


Ron  WA2EIO


On 5/1/2017 11:44 AM, Bill Frantz wrote:
Add me to the idiot group. I was operating from Kings county in the 
California QSO party on 10M SSB. Someone responded to my CQ and 
commented that I'd probably get more responses if I was operating USB. 
Sure enough, I was in LSB. I Thanked him and fixed the problem.


I think what had happened is that I had held a button instead of 
pushing it and switched to lower sideband as a result.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 5/1/17 at 7:39 AM, hotrod...@hotmail.com (louis a. ives) wrote:

I feel like a idiot, Ted was right upper side band  had flipped to 
lower side band. I guess that you always miss the obvious and make 
things too difficult when not needed. I need to find why it happened 
as 15 meter also had flipped. Thanks to all who gave suggestions, I 
placed those on my "When it don't work" list.

---
Bill Frantz| Privacy is dead, get over| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | it.  | 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |  - Scott McNealy | Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] Carol Dauer, SK

2017-04-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Thank you for doing that. 

You do indeed have many friends. Feel free to reach out again to help you
through this painful time. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer,
Edward
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2017 6:39 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Carol Dauer, SK

 This post is as O.T. as any could possibly be, and selfish to boot; but
sending it is of some importance to me.  Last week my wife of more than 50
years passed away, after a nearly three-year run battling a very nasty form
of cancer.  She died, in hospice, comfortable and at peace.

I write this because I am trying to fill a vast hole in my life, doing
busy-work and settling affairs and, more to the point, corresponding with
friends and family.  Over the years I have come to regard many of the
participants in this reflector as friends, even though I have met in person
only three or four.

I expect no replies. And if there are any I ask that they be off-line.  

Thanks for tolerating this personal and maudlin use of the bandwidth.  It is
hard to say why it mattered, but I felt the need to express my loss.

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR


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Re: [Elecraft] NVIS HF vs VHF line-of-sight & CB

2017-04-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Ground losses mount rapidly as a horizontal antenna is lowered closer to the
earth. So, while the pattern may show the main lobe straight up, the amount
of RF lost in the earth below increases. 

EZNEC confirmed to me that about 0.2 wavelengths up is the optimum height
for the strongest vertical lobe (NVIS pattern). That fits with the fact that
0.2 wavelength spacing between the driven element and reflector of a Yagi
produces the maximum gain. Running a wire near the ground helps too, since
the earth is, at best, a poor dielectric instead of an efficient reflector. 

Well supported towers have withstood some serious quakes, including our
land-mobile repeater towers in the Loma Prieta earthquake that broke the
S.F. Bay bridge and knocked down a good part of downtown Santa Cruz back in
the 80's. 

However a tower, no matter how robust, is of little use if operations need
to move elsewhere. They are darn clumsy to move by hand in an emergency. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
kev...@coho.net
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2017 1:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NVIS HF vs VHF line-of-sight & CB

I lose my antennas about once each year to straight line winds. Flying
branches knock them down.  But if the wires are still intact I can run the
nets with the lowered antennas.  Using less than optimal antennas works;
just not as well as perfect antennas.  In an emergency I really don't care
about perfect performance, I simply want to contact someone for assistance.
By all means put up the best antenna you can just remember any antenna can
make contacts.

Years ago I wrote some software to display antenna propagation patterns as a
half wave dipole was lowered from 1 wavelength above ground until it was on
the ground.  The results were pretty interesting.  By using the program I
found many heights would work well depending on where I wanted to contact.
At less than 1/10 wavelength above the ground the radiation patterns got
rather odd but still worked for in-state comms.  
Once I had modeled what was going to happen I tested it by dropping my
antennas to different heights and tested comms.  Theory and practice
correlated quite nicely.

 Kevin.  KD5ONS

P. S. The application also modeled 1/4 wave verticals and loop antennas.  I
never found the time to model the Yagi-Uda, the math got too hairy.  Using
Euler's equation a few times got me through the three antenna types I was
able to model.  Beating on the Bessel functions would have taken longer than
the time I had allotted to me.

  K.


On 4/30/2017 1:22 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
> I have always wondered how towers hold up during earthquakes. Being 
> able to work with ad-hoc antennas seems a good attribute for any 
> emergency plan.
>
> 73 Bill AE6JV
>
> On 4/30/17 at 11:34 AM, kev...@coho.net wrote:
>
>> Please try NVIS on 40 or 80 meters. You'll find you can cover most of 
>> the state with its use.  Plus the antennas can be ad hoc - tossed 
>> into trees or even an old fence line.
> ---
> Bill Frantz| I don't have high-speed  | Periwinkle
> (408)356-8506  | internet. I have DSL.| 16345 Englewood Ave
> www.pwpconsult.com |  | Los Gatos, CA 95032
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 hand key input question

2017-04-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I'm not being funny, but did you check the obvious: is your external keyer
powered? If battery, did it jiggle out of place. If mains, are both the
power supply and the connection to the keyer plugged in and turned on? 

Back in the old days, many a TV repairman was called out to a house for an
emergency fix on the TV before Howdy Doody or I Love Lucy came on only to
find that the mains plug had gotten pulled out of the wall socket.

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Broga
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2017 11:44 AM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 hand key input question

I recently rearranged the shack and now my external keyer will not key the
K3.  The internal keyer works just fine.  I have checked the connections and
they are correct.  I do have VOX on also.  I must be missing something
basic.   Any ideas?


Mike, W9QS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500

2017-04-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I agree. I live probably 100 miles north of Harry, near Newport on the Oregon 
Coast. I have participated in a number of simulated emergency tests (SETs) 
anticipating the eventual Cascadia event with big earthquake and tsunami. 

First, I anticipate that everyone would be living in an RV/Trailer or out of a 
car because not many homes (or other structures) will survive a 9+ earthquake 
without serious damage, if they are left standing at all.

So my SET operations are based on the assumption that energy will be precious. 
I have yet to run more than 100 watts into an end-fed wire strung between two 
trees. Often I ran only 20 watts with my K2. I have always been able to work 
over ranges of 50 to 1,000 miles using the best band for the time of day and 
sun cdx, especially if I revert to a digital mode. IMX voice traffic is 
tedious, slow and inefficient compared to just about any digital messaging 
system from CW to any of the more exotic modes now popular. I can sit at a 
table with various various incident commanders or team leaders using my 
keyboard to send traffic without interrupting their conversations. 

The one "frill" I like is a battery powered printer so that incoming traffic 
can be printed and handed over to the others there immediately. 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter 
Underwood
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 1:09 PM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500

I’m curious about running a 500 W amp on emergency power.

Expectations for a severe Cascadia earthquake include power outages for at 
least six months. Batteries and gasoline generators won’t last that long. That 
is a lot of amp to run off of solar. It needs roughly 1000 VA when transmitting.

I would focus on easy to erect antennas with some gain. For your 10 meter net, 
a Moxon beam would give 3 to 4 dB gain, about half the the 7 dB gain from a 100 
to 500 W increase. And it helps on receive, too, unlike an amp. Even with a 
mast or tower, it would be much, much cheaper than a KPA500.

http://www.innovantennas.com/our-antennas/view/productdetails/virtuemart_product_id/455/virtuemart_category_id/4.html
 
<http://www.innovantennas.com/our-antennas/view/productdetails/virtuemart_product_id/455/virtuemart_category_id/4.html>
http://www.wb5cxc.com/10mmoxon.html <http://www.wb5cxc.com/10mmoxon.html>

I expect your local emcomm organizations already have frequency plans. From 
QRZ, it looks like you are in a valley, so you might plan for NVIS antennas. 
These are usually easy to put up, because they are low wire antennas.

Another option would be a directional wire antenna. For example, if you are 
primarily communicating with Roseburg, then a 40m wire beam or “ZL special” 
phased beam might work well. 

One bright spot about widespread power outages—you won’t have much RFI! That 
could allow working with much lower power than usual.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Apr 27, 2017, at 10:42 AM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
> 
> BND MAP may be set to OFF for 10m on his K3.  See p54 of the Owner's Manual.
> 
> 73,
> 
> matt W6NIA
> 
> 
> On 4/27/2017 9:49 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
>> 28.400  is within the 10 meter band and your K3 should work just fine 
>> there (Mine does) That being said 28.4 may not be your best choice as 
>> it tends to be a calling frequency of sorts and even though they may 
>> not hear you you may hear them
>> 
>>   From: KG7FYI 
>>  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>  Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 12:31 PM
>>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500
>>Thanks for all the input.
>> I hope you aren't getting the impression that I am preparing to be a 
>> loose cannon. We regularly carry on sets in anticipation of the type 
>> of emergencies the State is preparing for. Nonetheless my desire is 
>> to have as many options as possible available for our small 
>> community. We have been submitting grant proposals to upgrade our 2M 
>> equipment to be better integrated into the ARES net system here. On 
>> the other hand our ARES usually also does check ins on 28.400 MHZ 
>> which is not open on my K3. Not reasonable at all, hence my hope to 
>> scale things up. Our ARES group has done ARES/RACES certification to 
>> qualify for participation. I'll touch in with our club to see where 
>> we are regarding our RACES commitment. In the mean time also I'll make 
>> contact on my own. Thanks.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>__
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>> Post: mailto:

Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500

2017-04-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I routinely use the delete key for such outbursts and try to avoid judging
someone by their worst comment. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KG7FYI
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 3:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 and KAT500

Thanks Joe. I am learning but the entitlement attitude is a new one for me.
I'll have to figure that one out.


On 04/27/2017 11:18 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV-4 [via Elecraft] wrote:
>
> On 4/27/2017 12:18 PM, KG7FYI wrote:
> > On the other hand our ARES usually also does check ins on 28.400 MHZ
> > which is not open on my K3.
>
> You obviously do not know how to operate your K3 (probably a failure
> to red the manual) since 28.400 MHz is squarely within the amateur
> 10 meter band and works just fine with a stock K3, K3S - even the K2,
> KX2 and KX3.
>
> Again, I certainly hope you learn more about amateur radio and get
> rid of the entitlement attitude.
>
> 73,
>
> ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 4/27/2017 12:18 PM, KG7FYI wrote:
>
> > Thanks for all the input.
> > I hope you aren't getting the impression that I am preparing to be a 
> loose
> > cannon. We regularly carry on sets in anticipation of the type of
> > emergencies the State is preparing for. Nonetheless my desire is to 
> have as
> > many options as possible available for our small community. We have 
> been
> > submitting grant proposals to upgrade our 2M equipment to be better
> > integrated into the ARES net system here. On the other hand our ARES 
> usually
> > also does check ins on 28.400 MHZ which is not open on my K3. Not 
> reasonable
> > at all, hence my hope to scale things up. Our ARES group has done 
> ARES/RACES
> > certification to qualify for participation. I'll touch in with our 
> club to
> > see where we are regarding our RACES commitment. In the mean time 
> also I'll
> > make contact on my own. Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > Stan KG7FYI
> > --
> > View this message in context: 
>
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-P3-and-KAT500-tp7629969p7630032.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
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-
Stan KG7FYI
--
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 additional info

2017-04-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Unfortunately, a power limit is much like a speed limit on the highway; I'm
good unless I get caught. 

Ever since I've been a Ham there are others like that. In the west in the
1950s we called them "California Kilowatts" who would brag about putting out
5 or 10 kW or more on the Ham bands.

Once in a while the FCC would catch up with one. It was always good
entertainment to read about it.

For the rest of us, we learned that complaining "Why are you picking on me?
Other kids did the same thing!" was not an excuse when we were small
children. But not everyone learned the lesson. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Nielsen
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2017 5:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 additional info

What a novel thought.


On 4/23/17 1:52 PM, Rick Bates (WA6NHC) wrote:
> The KPA500, my only amp, will happily run up to the device limits (~600
watts) on all HF bands (500 watts on 6 M).
>
> This includes 60 M and 30 M where US hams are power limited by the rules
(to 100 watts ERP relative to a half wave dipole on 60; and 200 watts for
30).
>
> It is of course, up to the operator to manage the station within the
appropriate rules.
>
> Rick WA6NHC
>
> Tiny iPhone keypad & spiel Czech happens
>
>> On Apr 23, 2017, at 1:42 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
>>
>>   Do any amps take into account for power limit on 30 m or 60 as well?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing your posts, KPA1500, KPA500

2017-04-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I have never complained about those who don't add a signature as long as it
is clear they are a Ham, but I choose to add my own sig as a courtesy just
as it is on "snail mail" that normally has the sender's name and address in
the header but also bears a close and signature at the bottom.

Perhaps we're just dinosaurs in today's "streamlined" world. If so, please
bear with us. 

It takes less time for me to type the sig than it does to remove the
extraneous footings added to the messages in keeping with Eric's wishes, so
I don't even bother with storing one in Outlook. 

73 Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2017 11:49 AM
To: Harry Yingst; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Signing your posts, KPA1500, KPA500

Not too many reading posts on this reflector who do not know what a callsign
is.  It is part of reflector courtesy IMHO.

I do not include my callsign on non ham reflector posts, nor do I sign with
'73'.  In other words, I do not have a signature file that attaches
automatically - easy enough to do it manually.

In my opinion relying on the email address for identification is not
sufficient - so many email addresses are cryptic and convey little
information.

I am proud of my call, and have had it since I moved to Maryland in 1969
when I had to change it from W8DLB.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/23/2017 2:32 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> 
> 
> It makes little sense to make a signature with a call sign when most 
> people outside of amateur radio would have no idea what it is?
> 
> There is no need for a signature when the name is already in the sent
field.


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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

2017-04-21 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The very BEST magnetic loops are incredibly inefficient, yet like any
"incredibly inefficient" antenna one can make amazing contacts on them when
conditions are right. 

The problem is with resistive losses. The day we have room-temperature
superconductors, we will have efficient small transmitting loops. Until
then, only a few percent of the power applied is radiated. 

For now, they are great when simplicity of setup allows operation where
otherwise nothing could be done. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
Hystad
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:45 PM
To: Eddy Avila
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

The May 2017 QST not only does a review of the Elecraft KX2 but it reviews
the Alpha Antenna, 10-40 meter support.  This is a magnetic loop antenna and
I think it retails (basic model) for $299.

73, phil, K7PEH

> On Apr 21, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Eddy Avila  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF
magnetic loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your
opinion about them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running
qRP.
> 
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> 
> 73
> 
> 
> ed
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Re: [Elecraft] Another really good reason to come to the Visailia DX convention this weekend...

2017-04-20 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Eric, you are better at that than White House spokesperson Mr. Spicer!

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric
Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 3:08 PM
To: KV5J; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Another really good reason to come to the Visailia
DX convention this weekend...

The posting below is a little inaccurate.

If we are going to announce something like everyone is talking about, we are
not yet taking orders.

That said, we can put people on a notification list for when we will have
additional info and for when we will be taking orders for whatever we are
talking about.

73,

Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 4/20/2017 2:54 PM, KV5J via Elecraft wrote:
> I just called and pre-ordered one.  I'm 3rd. on the list! Better hurry.
>
>
>
> --


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Re: [Elecraft] Another really good reason to come to the Visailia DX convention this weekend...

2017-04-20 Thread Ron Wilcox
I was lucky when I put in my 240v for my kenwood 922 a couple of years ago,
a very good friend is a licensed electrician, would not let me pay him very
much, it always pays to be nice to everyone you know

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:

> A 120VAC/20A circuit is appropriate for a lot of things  a 1500W HF
> amp is not one of them.
>
> Just do the 240 circuit...
>
> http://montac.com/images/shack_power/outlets.jpg
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/67hjpy126yr48sg/2016-08-28%2009.51.14.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/16iflr76lvwe88c/2016-08-28%2018.19.38.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/bkz0k60nzzsg1y0/2016-07-28%2018.29.45.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/92jeckuevh9t8j2/2016-07-27%2015.28.52.jpg?dl=0
>
> Twisted pairs, steel conduit from service to sub, sub, to outlets,
> 240VAC/60A sub-panel, 8 x 120VAC/20A, 2 x 240VAC/15, 2 x 220VAC/20A
>
> Just find an electrician who will inspect/sign off on the work.
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
> On 4/20/2017 3:14 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> > It might, but at typical efficiencies 1500W peak output would be a
> significant draw on the existing 117 VAC wiring – likely over 20 amps.
> With the K3/KPA500 as it is I get a just perceptible flicker in the room
> lights when keying.  With a dedicated 240 volt line I could also add a
> cooler for the drinks.
> >
> >
> >
> > Ted, KN1CBR
> >
> >
> > On 4/20/17, 1:53 PM, "Jeff"  wrote:
> >
> > Not so fast on the 240 VAC line Ted.  The single transistor SPE 1.3K
> will do
> > 1500 watts on 110v. It will be interesting to see if the Elecraft
> 1500w AMP
> > turns out to be a single transistor design...
> >
> > 73 Jeff kb2m
> >
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

2017-04-19 Thread Ron Wilcox
I have a medical background, this was my first kit of any kind to do with
electronics. While I did not find it easy, I had no problems putting it
together. However it was not intuitive for me and had to study (not just
read) the instructions very carefully, and usually more than once or twice.

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Nr4c  wrote:

> Really?  I have been quite please at the mechanical design of my Elecraft
> gear.
>
> Yes, the sub-Rec is a bit tricky to align but with a bit of care and I
> remove the side panel (with handle) for better view.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2017, at 11:58 PM, Christopher Hoover 
> wrote:
>
> >>
> >> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult
> >> getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.
> >
> >
> > I installed mine myself too.(And I just r/r recently with the
> addition
> > of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.)   It is certainly
> > fiddly.  The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.
> >
> > 73, Christopher  AI6KG.
> >
> >> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp  wrote:
> >>
> >> I just installed the Sub receiver and the KBPF3A in my K3S.  I have one
> >> complaint and one concern.
> >>
> >> First the activation of the KBPF3A is very vague.  It's mentioned in the
> >> users manual on page 60 (the configuration menu) but there's nothing
> that
> >> says, while in (CONFIG:KBFP3) that you have to press [SUB] and then
> select
> >> "nor".  I double checked the installation manual for the sub receiver
> and
> >> the KBFP3A but there was nothing about activating the General Coverage
> >> filters.
> >>
> >> My concern is;  I consider myself as an experienced kit builder but for
> me,
> >> it was a bit difficult installing the Sub-Receiver.  The TMP cables
> were in
> >> the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult getting the SUBIN and
> >> SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.  Someone who is new to kit
> >> building would have a more difficult time.
> >>
> >> The sub-receiver is working great and the one thing I like about it is;
> >> it's
> >> a clone of the main receiver with FM, AM, 2.8, 400 and 250Hz filters.  I
> >> wonder how the sub-receiver would stack-up on Sherwood Engineering's
> test
> >> data.
> >>
> >> Jack WA9FVP
> >> Willco Electronics
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -
> >> Jack WA9FVP
> >>
> >> Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
> >> --
> >> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> >> nabble.com/Sub-Receiver-KBPF3-tp7629327.html
> >> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> >> __
> >> Elecraft mailing list
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> >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>
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> >> Message delivered to c...@murgatroid.com
> >>
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

2017-04-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Aaargh. Here's the link:

http://www.gocomics.com/alley-oop/2003/08/04

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

2017-04-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I forgot to add, if you have any comments, let us take them off the Elecraft
list. The OT Traffic here has been FIERCE  lately, Hi! 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2017 7:43 PM
To: kev...@coho.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'QRP-L Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

For all of you Feynman fans out there, you might get a chuckle out of these
Alley Oop strips featuring Dick hisself from 2003. Arrow forward a couple of
days an Dr. Feynman will enter center stage, complete with Bongos. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
kev...@coho.net
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 11:41 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; QRP-L Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] A little theory

If you are not familiar with Richard Feynman he was a physicist who worked
on the Manhattan Project.  He was also a professor at Caltech.  
Here are some of his lectures on physics which he offered to undergrads.
Introductory college level physics taught by a master.

http://www.feynmanlectures.caltech.edu/

73 & GL,

  Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

2017-04-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
For all of you Feynman fans out there, you might get a chuckle out of these
Alley Oop strips featuring Dick hisself from 2003. Arrow forward a couple of
days an Dr. Feynman will enter center stage, complete with Bongos. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
kev...@coho.net
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 11:41 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; QRP-L Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] A little theory

If you are not familiar with Richard Feynman he was a physicist who worked
on the Manhattan Project.  He was also a professor at Caltech.  
Here are some of his lectures on physics which he offered to undergrads.
Introductory college level physics taught by a master.

http://www.feynmanlectures.caltech.edu/

73 & GL,

  Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

2017-04-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Having read Feynman's books, I got a big chuckle out of hearing him lecture
for the first time. With his strong New York accent, he reminded me of the
guy who makes great sandwiches at the local deli. And his sense of humor was
such that he'd probably get a big laugh out of that comparison. 

Here's 5 minutes of clips of a very passionate Feynman lecturing on Algebra!


http://www.feynman.com/2016/05/19/the-animated-feynman-lectures/

His dedication to teaching at all levels makes him a genuine hero in my
book. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Nielsen
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 2:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

I did meet him.  The first thing he said to me was, "Call me Dick", as he
wasn't much for titles.  When he was scheduled to give a lecture to the
freshman class at Caltech we were told to arrive early because the
upper-classmen would fill up the lecture hall.  In addition to his work in
theoretical physics, he was a master of the bongo drums.  A
somewhat-fictionalized film of Feynman's time at Los Alamos is "Infinity"
starring Matthew Broderick.

73, Bob N7XY



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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

2017-04-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I'll attest that it is great and interesting reading for anyone interested
in Physics. I bought the three-volume set in San Francisco back in the
1980's, and it remains a valued part of my scientific library alongside
Pauling's text on Inorganic Chemistry. 

Feynman also wrote an eloquent text on quantum electrodynamics for those
with little scientific background called "QED The Strange Theory of Light
and Matter". 

And for some thoughtful insights into Feynman himself there is his book "The
Meaning of it All - Thoughts of a Citizen-Scientist" or for a few chuckles
his autobiographical book "What do YOU Care What Other People Think?" 

I strive to live by his advice, "Study hard what interests you the most in
the most undisciplined, irreverent and original manner possible." 

I'm afraid not all of my college instructors agreed, however.

73, Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
kev...@coho.net
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 11:41 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; QRP-L Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] A little theory

If you are not familiar with Richard Feynman he was a physicist who worked
on the Manhattan Project.  He was also a professor at Caltech.  
Here are some of his lectures on physics which he offered to undergrads.
Introductory college level physics taught by a master.

http://www.feynmanlectures.caltech.edu/

73 & GL,

  Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 mobile?

2017-04-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
As Phil knows, it is commonly used on ships in the US Navy for the same reason. 
Many US Navy ships have an on-board cellular system but it's useless without a 
way to get RF into all the compartments and passageways through steel plate! 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 3:25 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 mobile?

On 4/15/2017 7:43 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

> Unfortunately, I can’t remember anything of the details of how this 
> was done but I suspect wide-band amplifiers and wires and top-side 
> wide-band antennas.

Leaky coax (trade name == Radiax).  It's many-decades-old technology.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Heathkit Tool.

2017-04-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yep, I have one too. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of wa9fvp
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 1:38 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Heathkit Tool.

Years ago I built a Heathkit SB101 and other smaller projects. Normally they
would include a very a handy tool.  It's a plastic, what I call, a "nut
holding" tool.  Keeping it all these years I found it to be very handy while
assembling my KPA500, KAT500 and K3S. 

<http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7629328/DSC00410.jpg> 



-
Jack WA9FVP

Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
--
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

2017-04-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Jack:

Page 16 of the KBPF3A manual says under the heading "Enable the KBPF3A
Module":

"Enable the KBPF3A for either the main or sub receiver using the CONFIG menu
as described in the
Owner's Manual. The KBPF3A will not operate until this is done!" 

Perhaps I should have repeated the whole procedure in the KPBP3A manual. 

I think you will get a LOT of agreement that installing the KRX3 module is
one of the most complex bits of assembly of the K3S. We've made many
"tweaks" to the procedure in the attempt to make it easier, but it is still
not simple. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of wa9fvp
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 1:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

I just installed the Sub receiver and the KBPF3A in my K3S.  I have one
complaint and one concern. 

First the activation of the KBPF3A is very vague.  It's mentioned in the
users manual on page 60 (the configuration menu) but there's nothing that
says, while in (CONFIG:KBFP3) that you have to press [SUB] and then select
"nor".  I double checked the installation manual for the sub receiver and
the KBFP3A but there was nothing about activating the General Coverage
filters.

My concern is;  I consider myself as an experienced kit builder but for me,
it was a bit difficult installing the Sub-Receiver.  The TMP cables were in
the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult getting the SUBIN and
SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.  Someone who is new to kit
building would have a more difficult time.

The sub-receiver is working great and the one thing I like about it is; it's
a clone of the main receiver with FM, AM, 2.8, 400 and 250Hz filters.  I
wonder how the sub-receiver would stack-up on Sherwood Engineering's test
data. 

Jack WA9FVP
Willco Electronics



-
Jack WA9FVP

Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 mobile?

2017-04-14 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
One issue with mobile QRO is the antenna. While a mobile whip/loading coil 
combo can be designed for high power, it becomes difficult to prevent corona 
discharge from the end of the whip while transmitting at high power. 

One fairly common solution decades ago was to mount a copper toilet tank float 
on the end of the antenna. Of course the wind resistance then required guying 
the whip. Since it was typically on the rear of the car, a nylon cord from the 
mid-point to somewhere forward on the roof was common. 

Another approach - back when car bodies were steel - was to extend the whip to 
it could be bent over and tied to the front bumper, turning the car body and 
whip into a small loop antenna. 

Today, it might be hard to establish the necessary distance from the antenna 
while sitting in the car to meet modern RF exposure limits, especially on 20 
meters and up. 

I never went QRO in my car, but had buddies who tinkered with it way back when 
vacuum tubes were "king". Back then I lived in the land of the "California 
Kilowatt" (Southern Calif.). They mounted outboard generators on their car 
engines to handle the power demand. Adding filaments, etc., a kW mobile station 
might require 1.5 or 2 kW of d.c. power to run it. Got a chuckle out of them 
when they'd key the mic to transmit while sitting at a stop light with the 
engine at idle, and the sudden added power demand caused the engine to stall.

73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Help me choose my first HF rig

2017-04-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I agree. Get a rig and get on the air. 

In some ways it's sad that Ham rigs have become so sophisticated and cost
enough that most Hams need to think in terms of resale value. 

There is a Ham I used to chew the rig with on 40 CW regularly who saved from
his small fixed income for a years to replace his HW-8 with a new 100 watt
rig. Dang! He was happy with the new rig. Then I worked him again a few
weeks later and he was back on the HW-8. I asked him why. It seems he knew a
Ham nearby who was on also a small income and lived alone. His  rig died and
the cost to repair was prohibitive. Rather than leave him off the air my
friend made him a gift of his new rig and dusted off his old HW-8 again. 

I also had a HW-8 for which I had built an outboard 25-watt amplifier (the
HW-8 ran about 2 watts barefoot). I had since built a K2 running 10 watts,
so I sent him my outboard amp for the HW-8. 

That's the Ham Radio I was raised with. We often swapped stories about how
when we had a need others had given us stuff over the years or passed it on
very cheaply. It's an aspect of the hobby I try hard to see continue.

73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request

2017-04-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
With respect, it's all what you have grown accustomed to. The AM and FM
stations where I worked only had a speaker in the booth over which the DJ
heard audio from the disk on the turntable or rare network feed. He/she
never heard their own voice. 

Same was true in aircraft and military radio comms. And I doubt if many Hams
today carrying an HT are disturbed by not hearing their own voices. 

Sidetone in telephones was used to keep the person speaking from shouting
(as they did in early phones). The higher the sidetone volume, the quieter
the person would speak. We used that to great effect to tame a "shouter" in
bull-pen office environments. Unfortunately mobile (cellular) phones offer
no such benefit. 

My point is that I suspect that you are tapping into a change in recording,
broadcast and DJ work that is beginning to impact Ham operations. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Luis
V. Romero
Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2017 10:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S SSB TX monitor - feature request

All:

As a broadcast professional, I completely agree with the need to hear one's
voice as side tone in your headset while speaking.  Not hearing this does
make one feel deaf.  This is a common feature in professional intercom
systems as well as music performance monitoring for singers and
instrumentalists and even your telephone!  It's not really a "nice to have":
In my opinion, it's a "must have".


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Re: [Elecraft] Was Amplifier - Now RF exposure limits

2017-04-07 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Setting exposure limits to anything potentially harmful is a legal and
medical minefield. The best I ever hope for is guidance, not limits. 

As George notes, some people have suffered significant harm from RF fields.
Others, not at all. 

Remember, the microwave oven was "invented" by an engineer working around
magnetron RF sources and discovered the "Hershey" chocolate bar in his shirt
pocket had melted. When he figured out why, the "Radar Range" (first brand
of microwave oven) was born.

One cold night in the late 1950's, working outside on a flight line of F-86D
fighters lined up wingtip to wingtip for preflight repairs and testing, I
concluded I must be catching the flu. I felt weak hot and sweaty after
several minutes talking with someone. We were standing in front of the
planes, most of which had the nose radomes removed for testing the
fire-control radar systems. Looking up, I noticed the radar antenna of one
plane across the way with someone sitting in the cockpit was pointing
directly at me. On a hunch, I took a few steps to one side and the antenna
twitched to follow me. I immediately moved completely out of the way and
within a short time I felt quite normal. Relating the experience to other
people working the flight line, I learned it was a common occurance. The
concept of being "cooked" by RF radiation was new and no one thought much of
it. I don't think I, nor did I hear of anyone else, being injured by the
experience, although I was thereafter careful not to stand in front of a
transmitting radar antenna again. Not that Lockheed wasn't paying attention.
We used to gather around the tailpipes on break after an engine run,
occasionally roasting a hot dog or sausage on a stick held up just inside
the afterburner which often still glowed red, and they quickly forbade that
practice for safety reasons. But non-ionizing electromagnetic radiation was
not on anyone's "radar" so to speak back then. 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gmail
- George
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 12:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Was Amplifier - Now RF exposure limits

Ed & Brian,
My father had severe health consequences from working in a classroom with
operating military radars!

Since the adoption of OET 65 in the late 90s, all licensees (including Hams)
have had the responsibility to insure their station is in complete
compliance with RF exposure limit guidelines.

Most likely during your last license renewal or application for a new
license, you checked a box stating you would insure compliance with
non-ionization radiation limits.
Those guidelines are contained in bulletin OET 65.
For Hams OET 65 Supplement B
(https://transition.fcc.gov/bureaus/oet/info/documents/bulletins/oet65/oet65
b.pdf)
gives us some shortcuts to insure compliance without the tedious
calculations. Many of the tables were provided by ARRL & the W5YI Group.

There are also calculators available on the internet to make it quite easy. 
Googleing "amateur radio oet 65 calculator" returned many to choose from.

The only caveat I will give is that most of the shortcuts and calculators
are for a single transmitting antenna at a specific location. Multiple
radiating antenna WILL change the protection distances - Field Day & group
contesting come to mind!

Use to be we had to submit OET 65 compliance statements when licensing all
transmitters for Broadcast Stations ranging from 150 MHz to 23 GHz. I
believe we finally could use just a blanket cover statement ; but it has
been a while since I licensed a non-Ham transmitter.

You do need to insure you are in compliance - to protect your family,
friends, neighbors and yourself.

73
George
AI4VZ


From: brian

"Considered dangerous" isn't quite right.  The jury is out of the exact
danger levels of RF for all the various frequencies.  These distances are
more of an accepted limit that protects you from inquiries regarding RF
exposure.  Pointing to the distances being met helps get you off the hook.

People will be surprised to see how small the distances these calculations
are-- especially at lower frequencies.

One note often overlooked. The distance is defined as the distance from
feedpoint (usually center) of the antenna.

Also the duty cycle can be considered in the calculation.  There are stock
duty cycles for SSB and CW given in the documentation.

Antenna gain may have to be included.

It used to be that anything at 100 watts and below at HF was exempted.
I believe that has changed.

73 de Brian/K3KO



On 4/7/2017 16:06 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
> In the USAmerica ham's now have the *responsibility* of determining 
> the safe operating zones for each antenna per FCC regulation.  I doubt 
> many ever do the calculation.  Fortunately Australian ham Doug 
> MacArthur (sk) 

[Elecraft] Variable Scan Rate

2017-04-07 Thread Ron Reis
Haven't seen any comments on K3 frequency scanning -- maybe most folks
don't use it.  But it would sure be handy if we could change the scan rate
by rotating the VFO-B control when in scan mode.
Tnx
Ron
KB6K
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier

2017-04-06 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Sure, every little bit might help but, IMX, power is a matter of parity. For
example, if everyone ran 5 W maximum you'd be able to work almost all the
stations you hear with the KX2 "barefoot". 

For us QRP enthusiasts the challenge is spotting good signals from OTHER QRP
stations that tells us we are likely to be heard by them. The fun is in
noting that they don't need to be locals. Sometimes signals are good at QRP
levels with DX too. Therein lies the value of the QRP "watering holes"
around the bands. Elsewhere on the bands, I look for solid *strong* signals
to call when I'm QRP, especially with a compromise antenna. 

As for going QRO, I agree with Mike; I don't get very excited about anything
less than a 10 dB increase. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bert
Garcia N8NN
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:43 PM
To: 'Mike Morrow'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier

The KX2 is recommended to operate at 5 watts and below for digital modes.
When operating QRP, you are often at the noise level on the receiving end,
especially with compromise antennas.  Any improvement, even 5 dB, will make
the difference between being heard or not.  My primary design goal for a
KXPA35 is low cost, thus I suggest a modest power level, no SWR/wattmeter, a
manual bandswitch, and any other cost savings that can be had.  Those
wanting a full gallon of 100 watts with all the cool features Elecraft has
to offer can opt for the KXPA100, a truly fine amplifier in all respects.
Rather than a fancy pair of shoes, I'm just looking for a pair of
flip-flops.

Bert N8NN

-Original Message-
From: Mike Morrow [mailto:k...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:33 PM
To: n...@earthlink.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier


> I'm enjoying my new KX2 transceiver!  I'd like to see Elecraft make a 
> matching RF amplifier with about 35 watts output with 5 watts in.

Since the KX2 runs 10 watts out, more or less, you're asking for external
gear to run only 5 dB better.  I wouldn't consider something like that for
even a moment.  The existing 100 watt amp is likely the minimum increment
that would be almost worth the trouble.

A subsequent post about using a T1 ATU on the output of a 40 watt external
amp seems ill-advised, especially for such minimal practical benefit.

I'd prefer to see an enhanced KX3HP (not KX2) with KXAT3HP capable (only
with stout 14 vdc external power) of the 35 watts you seek.  It would sell
as a unified package that is the buyer's only choice, but not as multiple
components.  Still ... the benefit for the effort would not be there.

Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier

2017-04-06 Thread Ron Wilcox
Well glad it is going to work for you. I bought it and the tuner for mobile
work. I did not want to spend a fortune as my mobile time is fairly random,
but found that my wonderful KX2 was just not being heard from the car when
I tried to put out counties or make contacts. I could hear a lot but was
not being heard. Good luck.

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 10:54 AM, Bert Garcia N8NN 
wrote:

> Ron – Found it!  Very impressive amplifier for my KX2.  Guess I’ll build
> one while waiting for the Elecraft KXPA35 (or maybe the KXPA50…?).  The
> Hardrock 50 has a lot more features than I was looking for, but they are
> all useful.  Thanks for the help.  Again, very impressive!
>
>
>
> Bert N8NN
>
>
>
> *From:* Ron Wilcox [mailto:rgloga...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 11:04 AM
> *To:* n...@earthlink.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier
>
>
>
> sorry, it is hobby pc that makes the amplifier, here is their website, and
> it is the hardrock 50., https://www.hobbypcb.com/
>
>
> Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
>
> 73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 8:53 AM, Bert Garcia N8NN 
> wrote:
>
> Ron – I couldn’t find the amplifier on the QRP Guys website.  Do you have
> a link?  I bought their iambic paddle recently.
>
>
>
> Bert N8NN
>
>
>
> *From:* Ron Wilcox [mailto:rgloga...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 10:29 AM
> *To:* Irma & Linas(LY2H) 
> *Cc:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net; n...@earthlink.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier
>
>
>
> qrp guys also makes a nice 50 watt amplifier that works great with the
> KX2, has the cable for it, comes as kit for the fun of putting it together,
> quality product as well
>
>
> Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
>
> 73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 8:18 AM, Irma & Linas(LY2H) 
> wrote:
>
> Nice idea! Before Elecraft steps-in to this PA market, I am using with
> great success and pleasure the Chinese MiNiPa50,:)
> AT 5-6 W in from the Kx2 it yealds clean and healthy 45-50 W output on the
> 80-20m bands and around 40W on higher bands. 6,6A current consumption at
> 13-14V. No 6 m , no ATU though. ( For the ATU I use the famous Elecrat T-1,
> yes, it can stand up to 40 W , just do not tune at this power level, :)) At
> the price of approx 150 USD it is very good value for money, I think.
>
> 73 de Linas LY2H
>
> On 2017 bal. 6, kt at 16:34 Bert Garcia N8NN  wrote:
>
> > I'm enjoying my new KX2 transceiver!  I'd like to see Elecraft make a
> > matching RF amplifier with about 35 watts output with 5 watts in.
> Include
> > an antenna tuner.  Same size and shape and style as the KX2.  Leave out
> the
> > SWR/wattmeter and the antenna switch.  Use a manual bandswitch if it will
> > save money.  80-10 meters only.  Call it the KXPA35.
> >
> > Bert N8NN
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to irmalina...@gmail.com
> >
> __
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> Message delivered to rgloga...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier

2017-04-06 Thread Ron Wilcox
sorry, it is hobby pc that makes the amplifier, here is their website, and
it is the hardrock 50., https://www.hobbypcb.com/

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 8:53 AM, Bert Garcia N8NN  wrote:

> Ron – I couldn’t find the amplifier on the QRP Guys website.  Do you have
> a link?  I bought their iambic paddle recently.
>
>
>
> Bert N8NN
>
>
>
> *From:* Ron Wilcox [mailto:rgloga...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 10:29 AM
> *To:* Irma & Linas(LY2H) 
> *Cc:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net; n...@earthlink.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier
>
>
>
> qrp guys also makes a nice 50 watt amplifier that works great with the
> KX2, has the cable for it, comes as kit for the fun of putting it together,
> quality product as well
>
>
> Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
>
> 73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 8:18 AM, Irma & Linas(LY2H) 
> wrote:
>
> Nice idea! Before Elecraft steps-in to this PA market, I am using with
> great success and pleasure the Chinese MiNiPa50,:)
> AT 5-6 W in from the Kx2 it yealds clean and healthy 45-50 W output on the
> 80-20m bands and around 40W on higher bands. 6,6A current consumption at
> 13-14V. No 6 m , no ATU though. ( For the ATU I use the famous Elecrat T-1,
> yes, it can stand up to 40 W , just do not tune at this power level, :)) At
> the price of approx 150 USD it is very good value for money, I think.
>
> 73 de Linas LY2H
>
> On 2017 bal. 6, kt at 16:34 Bert Garcia N8NN  wrote:
>
> > I'm enjoying my new KX2 transceiver!  I'd like to see Elecraft make a
> > matching RF amplifier with about 35 watts output with 5 watts in.
> Include
> > an antenna tuner.  Same size and shape and style as the KX2.  Leave out
> the
> > SWR/wattmeter and the antenna switch.  Use a manual bandswitch if it will
> > save money.  80-10 meters only.  Call it the KXPA35.
> >
> > Bert N8NN
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to irmalina...@gmail.com
> >
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to rgloga...@gmail.com
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Matching Power Amplifier

2017-04-06 Thread Ron Wilcox
qrp guys also makes a nice 50 watt amplifier that works great with the KX2,
has the cable for it, comes as kit for the fun of putting it together,
quality product as well

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 8:18 AM, Irma & Linas(LY2H) 
wrote:

> Nice idea! Before Elecraft steps-in to this PA market, I am using with
> great success and pleasure the Chinese MiNiPa50,:)
> AT 5-6 W in from the Kx2 it yealds clean and healthy 45-50 W output on the
> 80-20m bands and around 40W on higher bands. 6,6A current consumption at
> 13-14V. No 6 m , no ATU though. ( For the ATU I use the famous Elecrat T-1,
> yes, it can stand up to 40 W , just do not tune at this power level, :)) At
> the price of approx 150 USD it is very good value for money, I think.
>
> 73 de Linas LY2H
>
> On 2017 bal. 6, kt at 16:34 Bert Garcia N8NN  wrote:
>
> > I'm enjoying my new KX2 transceiver!  I'd like to see Elecraft make a
> > matching RF amplifier with about 35 watts output with 5 watts in.
> Include
> > an antenna tuner.  Same size and shape and style as the KX2.  Leave out
> the
> > SWR/wattmeter and the antenna switch.  Use a manual bandswitch if it will
> > save money.  80-10 meters only.  Call it the KXPA35.
> >
> > Bert N8NN
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to irmalina...@gmail.com
> >
> __
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

2017-04-05 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
While I've pulled Fred's stunt at times in the past, be aware that having two 
grounds can be very dangerous. If something opened the circuit to the mains 
ground at the house, you could find mains voltage (120 or 240 Vac) between the 
coax connector from the shack and the tuner at the antenna when you disconnect 
it for any reason. 

The smart move is to run a heavy copper wire alongside the coax from a ground 
point in the house to the ground at the antenna so that both are grounded 
together. 

I agree with Barry about the unun. I'd not use it (and don't on my Inverted L, 
but I am not using an MFJ tuner either). If you have a decent "RF ground" at 
the tuner you probably will not need any further isolation.

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred 
Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 12:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

Assuming I understand your configuration and that when you say "isn’t the tuner 
already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax shield?" 
you mean the 3 ft of coax from the 4:1 transformer to the tuner:

The 3 ft path from the transformer ["unun"] to the tuner is handled by the 
coax.  The "tuner ground" would then become a safety ground ... 
which is a very large, long, and tedious subject involving the NEC, UFER's, 
large conductors, a lot of work, and possibly $$.

If "long coax to the shack" means the tuner is a long way from the shack and 
your service entrance, I'd drive a ground rod at the tuner and connect the lug 
to that.  I'm probably wrong, but that's what I'd do.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 4/5/2017 11:19 AM, Randy Cook wrote:
> Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L antenna 
> system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 additional feet. Still 
> tuning length.
> I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the antenna 
> base. Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun input lug, then 
> goes via coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax run to my shack. 
> Choke at the rig end of the coax run.
> Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.
> I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect ground 
> lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial collection point. 
> But, isn’t the tuner already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax 
> shield? Is it necessary to run another wire from the tuner ground to the 
> radial connection ground?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> 73
> Randy - K6CRC
>

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delivered to r...@cobi.biz

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

2017-04-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Good point Frank. 

Amphenol specs leakage for their BNC connectors at 3GHz where they claim 55
dB. By comparison they claim 90 dB at 3 GHz for their type N connectors.

I've never felt the need for the additional shielding in the shack. 

Of course these are Amphenol specs. Any other brand may have any other level
of leakage. As many have noted, the extra price of a good connector is saved
many times over chasing bad cable connections later. 

BNC specs
http://www.amphenolrf.com/connectors/bnc.html

N specs:
http://www.amphenolrf.com/connectors/n-type.html

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
donov...@starpower.net
Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 9:38 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

BNC connectors rate high for convenience and low for performance, especially
leakage performance. 


BNC connector leakage typicallymeasures in the range from -25 to 
-50 dB vs -60 to -90 dB for N connectors. Any BNC connector 
that does not fit snugly should replaced and discarded 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

2017-04-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Note that BNC connectors can easily handle a kW of RF power unless there is
a high SWR on the line. They are rated for 500V. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 6:24 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 loss of rx signal

Simple - use something better than PL-259's:

I mainly use N connectors for low loss/high power and BNC for low power
inside the shack connections.  I also have TNC and sma connectors.

Most connectors need a 1/4 turn beyond finger tight for reliable
connections.  Sure cure for loose connectors is heat shrink over them.  Not
only seals from wx but also loosening due to vibration.

Want to see what vibration does?  Install a radio in a D8 cat without some
kind of vibration damping.  I did long ago, and the Motorola 100w VHF radio
was a cabinet full of loose parts after 8-hours running of the cat.  Wonder
why military radios are full of glyptol, or completely potted in plastic?

73, Ed - KL7UW
   http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
   dubus...@gmail.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] SSB Net

2017-04-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
By that assessment, sometimes 10 kW is "QRP" (can't be heard) and sometimes
100 mW is QRO (heard Q5). 

It's ALL about band cdx. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes
Stewart
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 2:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SSB Net

And that's all you need to know about QRP.

On 4/2/2017 1:37 PM, Steve Sergeant wrote
> I knew I didn't have chance to be heard using QRP power.
>
> --Steve, KC6ZKT


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuning behavior when the load is impossible to match ?

2017-04-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
To answer your other question, if the KAT500 cannot find a match better than
1.5:1 the FAULT indicator on the front panel will light. You will also
trigger a fault if:

1) The RF power is above 110 watts while tuning to protect the relays from
arcing. 

2) The impedance can be matched but is outside of the KAT500's normal tuning
range with an impedance that may produce RF voltages that could damage the
components considering the RF power applied. In that case, the fault occurs
when you raise the RF power. However, it is safe to operate at any power
level below which the fault occurs.

73, Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 2:12 PM
To: Phil Hystad; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuning behavior when the load is impossible
to match ?

Phil,

It is indeed possible to match a very high SWR or even an open circuit or a
short.
That will be more probable on the higher frequency bands than on the lower
bands.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/2/2017 12:42 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> I got my second KAT500 tuner to use with my new backup rig and while
setting up and testing and tuning with my two different antennas I made a
mistake.
>
> I first observed the results displayed on the utility program operate page
where the tuned SWR was 1:1 and the bypass SWR was something like 54:1.  I
immediately realized that something was not right and discovered that my
coax cable was not switched to the antenna but rather my dummy load but the
cable to the dummy load was disconnected (because I was moving things
around).
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

2017-03-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Who does that on HF? I was assuming we were talking about 160-10 meters. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Charlie T, K3ICH
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 3:35 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

In some cases a dB or so CAN make a difference.  Otherwise, why bother to
put a ½dB noise figure GaAsFET pre-amp at the antenna just to overcome 2dB
of feedline loss?

At the other extreme, if you are being received at 20dB over S-9 running a
kilowatt, you'll still be S-5 at 100 milliwatts.


73, Charlie k3ICH

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Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

2017-03-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
2 dB might make a difference if you are only interested in having your call
sign dug out of the noise for a contest or DXCC contact.

Way back the early books from the 1930's that I read and the OT commercial
operators from that era I knew said that under typical conditions found on
the air, 6 dB was about the minimum change to hear a real difference in the
signal while exchanging messages or other extended information. Those
stations would not try a direct contact if the signals were "in the mud"
opting instead for trying again at different time or getting a relay.

In commercial operations we did not use the Ham RST system, but rather QSA 1
through 5. 1 was a barely detected signal in the mud. 5 was a loud signal
with perfect copy. I confess to doing about the same with Ham signals,
choosing between at most five levels by ear for my report without reference
to an S-meter.  

Personally, I've never gotten very excited about anything less than a 10 dB
improvement, but the only DX I work are those calling me - usually for a rag
chew - and I don't contest. 

And, for me, Ken's observation is quite right. If I get the bug to drop my
Inverted L, rub some RF grease on the wire, neaten things up in general and
restring it, I do think I am getting out better and stations seem to come
back more quickly. Expectations are everything!

73, Ron AC7AC





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken
K6MR
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 2:27 PM
To: Richard Thorne; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

I'm running my two KPAs combined. Is there a difference? That's one of those
questions that is tough to answer. I worked lots of people with 500W. I work
lots of people with 1000+ W.  I don't chase DXCC but things seem to work
better on 160.


I do feel louder. I think it was N6TR that said (probably mis-quoted here)
"If you feel loud you are loud".


Ken K6MR



From: Elecraft  on behalf of Richard
Thorne 
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:31 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Amp Thoughts: 1000 watts or 1500 watts?

I have a pair of KPA-500's for an SO2R setup.  Seamless.

I've been running the numbers on the advantage of going to 1000 or 1500
watts.

500 watts to 1000 watts - 3.01 db gain
500 watts to 1500 watts - 4.77 db gain

Will the increase from 1000 to 1500 watts or a 1.76 db increase in gain,
make a difference? I'm sure it would in some circumstances, but how often?

I'm just starting on my quest to increase my dxcc totals on 80 and 160, so
maybe that 1.76 db would be the difference between a having a qso or not
having a qso.

What are the thoughts of the serious low band guys?

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC
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Re: [Elecraft] New Amplifier Capabilities

2017-03-30 Thread Ron Wilcox
And I am sure that there are many like myself who while I have not posted,
 have been reading all of the comments and are very interested

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 10:22 AM, charlie carroll  wrote:

> Eric/Wayne:
>
> Quite a few folks have contributed many ideas about the characteristics of
> a new 1500 watt solid state amp.  With all this info, I am now curious as
> to what might make the cut and when.  I won't even go near the $$ question.
> :-)
>
> 73 charlie, k1xx/vp2mmf
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier thoughts

2017-03-29 Thread Ron Wilcox
Idaho is a great place for our hobby. That is where I got my start in the
80's from Don KA7T. Good luck. I am excited about the chatter the last week
or so about our wishes for an amp. Hope it happens. There have been some
great ideas so far.

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73       Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 4:07 PM, Rick WA6NHC  wrote:

> Or in my case, the use of ladder line (durned HOA infested area) to handle
> the near 20:1 on 160M (better on most other bands) so that the loss is from
> the tuner to the antenna, not the final.
>
> My solution is that I'm moving to a location better suited for antennas,
> far far away in a land called Idaho.  ;-)
>
> Rick wa6nhc
>
>
> On 3/29/2017 11:47 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> An SWR approaching 10:1 means high RF voltages on a coaxial line at the
>> voltage loops and high current flows at the current loops requiring a very
>> heavy-duty transmission line - likely a nitrogen-filled hard line at 1.5 kW
>> or, at the very least, a very heavy Teflon insulated line. In practice, it
>> is usually the voltage breakdown that kills coax.
>>
>> Of course high SWR also means high losses between the amp and the antenna.
>>
>> The power ratings published by coax cable suppliers are based on a low
>> SWR -- typically less than 1.5:1.
>>
>> The bottom line is that going QRO means a more careful design and
>> installation of the entire antenna system.
>>
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
>> brian
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:31 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier thoughts
>>
>> KAT500 handles a much wider SWR range (like to about 10:1).
>>
>> Why do you assume people are lucky enough to have antennas with no more
>> than a 3:1 SWR across the ham bands?
>>
>> Yes, higher SWR's require beefed up components but welcome to the real
>> world.
>>
>> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>>
>> __
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier thoughts

2017-03-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yes, and that's why the SWR measured at the transmitter is lower than the
actual SWR (measured at the antenna) due to the loss in the line. 

My point is that the sort of SWR we might accept at lower powers quickly
becomes impractical at higher powers because of the constraints imposed by
the transmission line. The sort of coaxial line most Hams use, even  the
super low-loss big stuff, simply cannot handle the voltages produced by a
high SWR.

The place to do the matching is at the antenna end of the transmission line.
So how about a weather proofed remote QRO ATU that goes at the antenna end
of the transmission line? As others pointed out such an ATU won't be small
due to the potentially huge voltages and currents involved, it won't be
lightweight and it certainly won't be cheap. 

73, Ron AC7AC

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 12:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier thoughts

On Wed,3/29/2017 11:47 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> An SWR approaching 10:1 means high RF voltages on a coaxial line at 
> the voltage loops

Remember that the SWR on a transmission line, and thus the loss in the line,
is determined ENTIRELY by the match between the antenna and the line, NOT
between the line and the transmitter.

The SWR measured at the transmitter is a measure of the difference between
the impedance the transmitter WANTS to drive and the impedance of the load
connected to it. If that INDICATED SWR is high, a solid state transmitter
will "throttle itself back" to protect itself, but that's not LOSS. The
function of an antenna tuner is to make the transmitter happy by giving it a
load that it's designed for, so that it can put out its full power.

For example, a long wire antenna of random length might be nowhere near
50 ohms resistive, so must be transformed to 50 ohms resistive so that the
transmitter can put power into it. Likewise, an antenna perfectly matched to
75 ohm coax or 150 ohm twin lead has no excess loss in the line but needs a
matching network to make the transmitter happy.  My high dipoles (at 100 -
140 ft) are fed with 75 ohm coax to minimize the loss in the line.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier thoughts

2017-03-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
An SWR approaching 10:1 means high RF voltages on a coaxial line at the voltage 
loops and high current flows at the current loops requiring a very heavy-duty 
transmission line - likely a nitrogen-filled hard line at 1.5 kW or, at the 
very least, a very heavy Teflon insulated line. In practice, it is usually the 
voltage breakdown that kills coax.

Of course high SWR also means high losses between the amp and the antenna. 

The power ratings published by coax cable suppliers are based on a low SWR -- 
typically less than 1.5:1.

The bottom line is that going QRO means a more careful design and installation 
of the entire antenna system.  

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of brian
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier thoughts

KAT500 handles a much wider SWR range (like to about 10:1).

Why do you assume people are lucky enough to have antennas with no more than a 
3:1 SWR across the ham bands?

Yes, higher SWR's require beefed up components but welcome to the real world.

73 de Brian/K3KO

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[Elecraft] Reflector problems

2017-03-26 Thread ron cowherd via Elecraft
I have not been receiving the Reflector in recent months and decided that maybe 
I missed something that was required to stay subscribed.  I don’t remember or 
can’t find the password from my original subscription and therefore 
re-subscribed.  

Please help me get back on the list.

Thanks
Phillip R. Cowherd (Ron) K4GYD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S ELF 10KHz

2017-03-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The Jim Creek antenna facility is amazing - a series of over mile long wires
(cables) for the radiator strung from mountain to mountain across a valley
being fed with IIRC a megawatt of VLF RF. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Morrow
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 3:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S ELF 10KHz

I didn't understand the reference to audio either.

When I on the crew of a US ballistic missile submarine more than 40 years
ago, our main communications receivers were AN/BRR-3 units whose full
frequency range was only 14 to 30 kHz.  These received signals from coastal
stations operating at megawatt output levels, but there was no one near such
a station with his ear drums damaged by or even sensitive to the station's
continuous output.  :-)

Anyone can listen to such signals as they exist today.  I'm not sure what
the point would be...everything down there is very deeply encrypted.

Mike / KK5F

--

>> Wait a second, there's a big difference between a sound pressure wave 
>> and an electromagnetic wave at 10-kHz...

---

> Receivers THAT I AM AWARE OF begin coverage at 15 khz.  Used to listen 
> to
> 16 khz from GBR in England on an RAL when lived in Florida.
>
> After all, 10 khz -is- audio.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S ELF 10KHz

2017-03-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Absolutely. You would need an antenna connected to an audio transducer (speaker 
or 'phones) to hear it. (Perhaps one would call it a non-conversion receiver.) 

An audio amplifier helps, but you have to deal with the 120 Hz buzz caused by 
the 60 Hz power line fields all around. A high pass filter with a cutoff above 
150 Hz helps a great deal. 

Listening to the variety of squeaks, chirps and other noises produced by 
electronic discharges all over the planet is a fascinating hobby in itself. 
They are commonly referred to as 'Sferics, short for atmospherics. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of thelastdb
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 6:57 AM
To: Ken G Kopp; wa9fvp; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S ELF 10KHz

Wait a second, there's a big difference between a sound pressure wave and an 
electromagnetic wave at 10-kHz...

Myron WVØHPrinted on Recycled Data  Original message From: Ken 
G Kopp  Date: 3/23/2017  7:41 AM  (GMT-07:00) To: wa9fvp 
, elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S 
ELF 10KHz Receivers THAT I AM AWARE OF begin coverage at 15 khz.  Used to 
listen to
16 khz from GBR in England on an RAL when lived in Florida.

After all, 10 khz -is- audio.

73

K0PP

On Mar 22, 2017 22:22, "wa9fvp"  wrote:

> Is it possible, maybe in the next firmware rev, to extend the bottom 
> end of the K3S down to 10KHz?
>
>
>
> -
> Jack WA9FVP
>
> Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/K3S-and-VLF-tp7628247p7628423.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

2017-03-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hitting the band switch on the KPA500 is a quick way to avoid cycling
through the bands sequentially on the K3. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
j...@kk9a.com
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 11:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

What buttons are you using besides ON and maybe OPER/STBY?

John KK9A


From: Ed Muns ed at w0yk.com
Sat Mar 18 14:25:12 EDT 2017

Based on the excellent KPA500 design, augmented by user experience, and the
added comments to Eric's question below, I'm confident Elecraft can define
another great product if they so choose.

My request is that the button colors be more functional than they are on the
KPA500.  "Black on Black" is aesthetically very cool in a well-lit
environment, but functionally very poor in most actual operational
environments.  Some of us have replaced the KPA500 button caps with gray and
other colors like on the K3, so we can find the buttons more readily.

Ed W0YK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not Seen By Computer after OS upgrade

2017-03-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Same here. No add'l driver needed. 

Maybe uninstall the FTDI site, restart the computer and, while connected to
the internet, plug in the USB device again. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick
Dievendorff
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 11:23 AM
To: 'Richard Lawn'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not Seen By Computer after OS upgrade

What I did the first time on several different Windows 10 systems was plug
in the USB cable and waited (for several minutes) for Windows to find the
required device driver from Windows Update.  I've never had to install a
device driver from The FTDI site.

YMMV...
Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Lawn
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 10:56
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 not Seen By Computer after OS upgrade

I bit the bullet and upgrade from Win 7 to 10 this morning in an effort to
address some issues I just couldn't live with any longer. All was fine until
I plugged the USB cable from my K3 into the computer and nothing. No
recognition what so ever. I went to the Elecraft site and downloaded and
installed FTDI and Prolific drivers though I think it needed FTDI. Still
nothing. I'm puzzeled though as I downloaded two different FTDI driver
packages. One was an install package and the other is a folder with no
obvious setup file for installation. The folder is labeled CDM v2.12.26 WHQL
Certified. That's probably the one I needed to install but am at a loss in
how to do that. Some advice would be appreciated.

Rick, W2JAZ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 update utility download removed (i.e. blocked) by Norton Internet Security in Windows 7

2017-03-18 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
After I got tired of both Norton and McAfee and dumped them years ago, I
have been using AVG without incident for at least a decade now. And doing
research via the WEB, I'm all over the place downloading files, etc., from
unknown sites as well as dealing with attachments to e-mails daily. 

AVG has a free version but you must remember to manually update it daily. I
willingly pay for good stuff that works, so I have a paid subscription.
Costs about $22/year for each machine. 

I've considered switching to Windows Defender but also avoid fixing things
that aren't broken.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Josh
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 10:16 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 update utility download removed (i.e. blocked)
by Norton Internet Security in Windows 7

Dumped Norton many years ago. It's nearly a virus itself. Haven't seen a
replacement suggested yet, so.. I've been very happy with NOD32. It's around
$30/yr, not the cheapest, but hasn't let me down. Have also heard good
reviews of Avast which is (used to be?) free. 

73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

> On Mar 17, 2017, at 11:26 PM, n...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> I will second that suggestion. Norton takes total control of most all
programs and sees ham software as virus. Dumped Norton over a decade ago. 
> 

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[Elecraft] Linear thoughts

2017-03-17 Thread Ron Durie
Same size box as the KPA500, with the internal switching supply.
It could actually weigh less than the KPA500. 
This would be an achievement that would be unique to Elecraft and desirable.

The tuner would be in an external box, same width and depth as the amp.

If it could be done for twice the price ($4200) of the KPA500, it would have
some market. 

Ron Durie
WB4OOA
Elecraft K3s-Line IMD



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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

2017-03-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Also there is the issue of the mains power available in the "shack". 

The KPA500 runs very well off of a decent 120VAC mains source, as I can
attest from experience. But that is about the limit for a normally (for the
USA) wired home circuit when a power supply for a K3, lights, etc., are
included. 

Larger amps will *REQUIRE* a 240VAC circuit which, unlike Europe, we in the
USA seldom have unless special wiring is installed.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Johnson
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 3:38 PM
To: Charlie T, K3ICH; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

Charlie, I think one of the main reasons for switching to a smaller amp was
the weight involved in the 1.5Kw rigs.  Just thought I would add back in.
The MJF AB1000 combiner looks interesting, but I would not touch one unless
I knew of many who used one successfully.  That way I could get a second
KPA500, and run 1KW which adds the 3db and I could move the separate parts
with ease.  :-)

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Charlie T, K3ICH
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 5:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

Well, if you've never tried to work truly "weak" signals, I can assure you
that +5 dB WILL make a world of difference.
Otherwise, why would you go to the trouble of installing a ½dB noise figure
pre-amp at the antenna, just to eliminate 2dB of feed-line loss on receive?
Or, stacking a second Yagi to gain at most, +3dB?
Yes, +5dB can be very hard to come by when you're operating at the fringes
of performance.
My thoughts are, if you're gonna run an amp at all, go for legal limit.

Not knocking anyone running 200 or 500 or 700 watts, just my own opinion.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 4:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

Advising Elecraft about producing a larger amplifier is quite a bit above my
pay grade so I won't go there. However, going to 1,500 watts from 500 watts
is a bit less than 5 dB -- a little less than one International Standard
S-unit.  5 dB might come a lot cheaper from an antenna change.

Before purchasing the KPA500, I ran my "1,500 watt Behemoth" at 500 W for
close to a year to see if I could tell the difference. Admittedly, I'm a
casual contester and DX'er, and I operate my ham radio for other reasons
too, but I really couldn't see much if any difference in terms of who I
could work or how long it took to snag the latest expedition.  
Operating skill [or lack thereof in my case] was a much bigger factor.  
The KPA500 was full QSK which its predecessor was not, which became a big
advantage.

I have since sold the KPA500 [and KAT500] and run 100W from home. My
HOA-Stealth "wire on the fence" is close enough to the house that I
occasionally make something happen [like flash touch-lamps or reset the
u-wave clock], and I figured 500 W might nuke the neighbor's dog who patrols
the other side of the fence.  I'm very surprised that the wire,
6 feet high, works as well as it does. If I quest for QRO and "real
antennae," I can always run W7RN remotely.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 3/16/2017 12:26 PM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> I recently sold my legal limit tube amp after a bit of a mental struggle.
> The seller in me finally won after I realized that "if I can't lift 
> it, I shouldn't own it". I was tempted to replace it with an ALS-1306, 
> but I operate RTTY and in that mode the 1306 wouldn't be good for more 
> output than a KPA500. Today I received my (new to me) KPA500. However, 
> in a contest someone with 1500 Watts will have a big advantage over my
> 500 W, so the subject of higher power may soon come back to me.

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