Re: [lace] Machine or hand sew
Alex's view seems to concur with most of the replies on this subject - I certainly agree. However, I think that this moving towards machine mounting is part of the changing nature of (bobbin) lacemaking. Traditionally, lace made for sale was made by one person (or several in the case of sectional laces) and then a different person, with good sewing skills, did the mounting; they just didn't have access to sewing machines. As lacemaking moved towards being a leisure activity people still put the 'traditional' value onto the mounting of that lace. Handmade lace itself has moved on a lot in the last couple of decades with a lot more colour and non-traditional threads being used and more and more people are realising that they can make a better job of machine mounting their lace than they can hand stitching it to fabric. All part of lace evolution. Brenda On 21 Jun 2008, at 09:52, Alex Stillwell wrote: Traditionally lace should be hand sewn to fabric but I would rather see a piece well mounted using machine sewing than one spoilt by being badly mounted by hand. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] vivienne lace fairs
On 24 Jun 2008, at 18:09, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At the end the chairwomen came and said did you have a good day? We knew we had done the best of any one but it still dismal, so we said no it was a disaster. The lady said, well what do you expect? We are an older group and don't really need anything So why did they invite you and others to attend??? Any lace day organiser has to try to hit a balance between having enough traders and enough people to make it worthwhile for those traders. One trader per 25-30 people is usually about right, so if you expect to sell 100 tickets 4 traders is ample - and they need to offer a range of goods. Three bobbin makers and a bead stall is not adequate, but neither is it good to have 4 general suppliers all with very similar good on offer. Ideally I'd go for two general traders who offer different threads/patterns, one bobbin maker and the fourth with either beads or books. Much of the reason for the decline in lace days is due to there being more old lacemakers dropping off the end than there are new ones coming along. Also I think that a lot of people tend to want shopping only - that's where the bigger fairs come in but even they are finding it harder to attract enough traders and customers. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] new to me
Hello ALice I've been making leaves in white cotton - White DMC Dentelle 100 Do you mean DMC Special Dentelles 100, or DMC Fil a Dentelles 100? I've never seen/heard of either. Or do you mean DMC Cordonnet 100 ? Years ago I tried painting fabric dye onto white lace - it worked but left soft edges at the colour changes. I guess a felt pen would give much more precise results Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lace discolouration
Reckits Blue Bags! NO! They bring the laundry up looking whiter but it's impossible to subsequently was hit out and in time it makes the fabric look grey. When I was a child Mum received quite a lot of sheets etc from Grandma and they had all been washed many times and whitened with blue bags. You could always tell if the sheets on the bed ere from Grandma's by the grey colour. Not to mention the fact that the blue is actually ground up lapiz lazuli (low quality) and the tiny granules have sharp edges which can cause damage to the fibres of the fabric. Brenda On 29 Jun 2008, at 10:48, Wendy Davies wrote: What a nusciance about the lace. It is awful when you look forward to getting something you bought and find it like that when it arrives. I was just wondering, you know those little blue bags you used to be able to get everywhere for net curtains can they be used if you can find them. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] mounting lace
Hello Sue I am now at a critical point in our 40th Wedding anniversary napkins which lots of you gave me ideas for many months ago. The fabric is ready and pressed and the lace made (just two more to darn the ends in) and then I am set to add lace to fabric. This particular set is a 4 sided strip design to go along the inside edge all the way around the fabric, the lace is approximately one and a quarter inches to lay on top of the fabric close to the edge but headside facing in, not attached to the edge and laying off the fabric, if you understand what I mean. Because of the colour it is not photographing well, but that doesn't matter would only be helpful to explain my point. Do you mean the straight foot edge is to be stitched close to the edge of the fabric with the headside unattached and nearer to the centre of the fabric? My question is, how do I make sure the tension of the lace on the fabric is right so that when attached neither the fabric or the lace will look bunched in the future. Both fabric and lace are cotton. I'd suggest pre-shrinking both fabric and lace and then attach the lace to the fabric. Also turn the hem *after* you have attached the lace. It's always easier to make fabric fit the lace rather than trying to make lace fit pre-hemmed fabric. Lay the lace over the fabric, pin and tack/baste it in position and then stitch to the lace to the fabric using your chosen stitch. If I have understood the first paragraph correctly I'd oversew the foot edge to the folded edge of the fabric. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Another OIDFA clip - with ME
I watched the video clip with Leonard on Mac without any problems!! True I'm still in the ark and running MacOSX 10.3 (can't remember which is which with the big cats!) but I'm getting to the point where I need to upgrade, with web access being one of the issues. 10.3 would only recognise the old version of Google Earth, but that has stopped working and despite downloading the so-called Mac version again it still won't work. The whole point of the internet is that it should be cross-platform, but Microsoft don't want it that way. Brenda On 6 Jul 2008, at 08:52, Sue Duckles wrote: Morning All I agree with Tamara, it's impossible for people who don't have windows to watch this, or haven't got media player either. shame, as I would've liked to see what Leonard looked like! Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: thread assistance please
That means she used Bockens 60/3 for the white and ecru, and Bockens 35/2 (equivalent to 50/3) for the colours. As Tamara said, if a (fairly recent) pattern states linen thread without a brand name the chances are it's Bockens linen. Brenda On 12 Jul 2008, at 06:23, Jenny Brandis wrote: It was loose in a folder so I had not looked - but on the inside fold is Leinengardne: Bockerns Knyppelgarn Weiss oder ecru 60/3 Farbig 35/2 (entspricht 50/3) Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] La Paleta thread
Vivienne, correct me if I'm wrong, but La Paletta is the new name for what used to marketed as Borayon (32 w/cm). Am I right in thinking that El Molino is the same thread but in industrial size cones? Brenda On 12 Jul 2008, at 14:00, Lynne Cumming wrote: Vivienne has a nice garter pattern I'd like to do which uses Finca 60 and La Palente. Brenda's oh so useful little book (latest edition) does not have La Paleta in it so does anyone out there have a wrap measurement for it as I would like to work the garter in silk. I rather assume it would be very similar in thickness to the Finca 60 but would just like to check! Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Spare thread
Provided you wind your bobbins properly so that it doesn't get untwisted or over twisted in the process, ie roll the bobbin into the thread rather than wrapping the thread around the bobbin, the thread will be OK to use for the next project, but only do that if the lengths are sufficiently long not to have lots of joins/knots. Cotton is not as elastic as wool and the curls don't set as much, Brenda I have finished the lace for the hood and about to start a piece to go around the cloak. I still have a lot of thread left on some of the bobbins. Can I mix new thread with thread already on the bobbins or should I use new all the way through as it is going to be quite a length. I am asking because if you use wool that you have undone from a garment with new wool it has a different tension which is why sometimes it is best to wash used wool first. I am asking because I have wound a couple of bobbins with the old thread and notice it is very kinked. I hope you understand what I am trying to say I have just re read it and I think I have put it right. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Spare thread
Sister Claire Winding bobbins properly isn't about the curve of the thread, whatever you mean by that, it's about not adding or taking away from the amount of twist put into the thread during its manufacture. If you think you may be winding incorrectly try winding some narrow ribbon onto a bobbin. It doesn't matter about haw far apart the wraps of ribbon are but the ribbon should should lie flat around the neck of the bobbin with no twists. Jean Leader's lace note explains it in detail http://www.q7design.demon.co.uk/lacenotes/winding/index.html Bobbins unwinding whilst you work is more likely to be because you have made the hitch wrongly. The way I make the hitch is shown at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/bobbins/bobbins.html The other thing that can affect the hitch holding is the shape of the bobbin's head. Bobbins with a double head, such as English Midland bobbins, can vary quite a bit in the shape of the head. I find that if the outer part has a smaller circumference than the inner part the hitch is constantly coming undone. If I use a bobbin with a head shaped like the spangled glass bobbin at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/bobbins/materials.html I make a single hitch over the wound thread in the same manner as I would with a single headed continental bobbin. Brenda I think I may have just discovered the cause of my bobbins unwinding while I work. Not all of them, but some. Could this be due to me winding the bobbins improperly, against the curve of the thread? It's a real pain having to rewind bobbins at frequent intervals, and this happened when I did Torchon and it happens now with the Cantu even more. Sr. Claire On Sun, Jul 13, 2008 at 8:46 PM, Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Provided you wind your bobbins properly so that it doesn't get untwisted or over twisted in the process, ie roll the bobbin into the thread rather than wrapping the thread around the bobbin, the thread will be OK to use for the next project, but only do that if the lengths are sufficiently long not to have lots of joins/knots. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Winding a skein of lace yarn without tools?
Hi Debora Borrow a pair of hands to hold the skeins whilst you wind. The person holding the skein just needs to allow the yarn to come off one side at a time. My husband learned that skill as a child, and he's not from a crafting family, it's not too difficult. Winding the ball by hand doesn't really take much longer than winding with a mechanical winder, it's dealing with the skein that's more difficult without a swift or human helper. Brenda I went on a shopping spree and came back with 14 skeins of lovely lace-weight 2-ply alpaca (700 grams of wool). Problem is, I have no winders or swifts to wind it... Have any of you come up with a solution that does not involve stretching the skein over the back of a chair and winding it by hand? My last recourse would be to borrow the tools from my lace-making fiends, but that's two months away and I want to play with my yarns now! ;-) Thanks for any tips and suggestions, Debora Lustgarten Toronto, Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Representation of lace (loooong post)
Hello Mark I'm wondering if the bobbin was actually a tool for making 'Proddie rugs where scraps of fabric were pushed between the threads of a piece coarse canvas or sacking to make a thick floor covering. Brenda At the home of James Madison, Montpelier, outside of the museum was a display of some home objects. I asked if I can take a picture of these and YES I could. In this case was a curious object that was sort of recognizable, but strange. Below are the three pics I took for your review: http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin1.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin2.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin3.jpg At the top of the neck is a double notch cut at an angle(like a double hook for crochet?) and at the bottom tip which has been deteriorating from weather conditions is a small hole. They report this being a bobbin for lacemaking. IS IT??? This item was just excavated and they apparently placed it in a case of mishmash items just for interest. I did get the contact info to send my opinion of the piece, and told the curator my questions about it. They were happy that I would do my research and notify you knowledgeable lacemakers so I could get back with them as to what the item really is. If it is a bobbin, then I told them I wouldn't contact them and leave it be. But if it wasn't a bobbin, then I would contact them with my findings. If anyone is fortunate enough to visit(or lives close by) Williamsburg/Jamestown/Yorktown, VA and also Mt. Vernon and Montpelier and the museums and to check out the tatting kits, and the questionable tatting shuttles, knotting shuttles, and the bobbin in question, I would really like to know your opinion about the representation of lace and its tools in the time of our fore fathers that started this country back from 1608 and beyond. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Representation of lace (loooong post)
Just goes to prove that great minds think alike! On 16 Jul 2008, at 22:31, Sue Duckles wrote: And now, I read my mail and find that Brenda has said the same thing!!! Sue On 16 Jul 2008, at 22:27, Sue Duckles wrote: Evening Spiders Mark, I wonder if it's a bradawl for a proddie or clippie rug... It would need to be strong enough to poke holes in sacking and poke either long or short lengths of fabric through the hole. Sue in EY On 16 Jul 2008, at 20:50, Mark, aka Tatman wrote http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin1.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin2.jpg http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin3.jpg - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] The strange bobbin
Nalbinding is sort-of related to needle lace and requires a giant sewing needle with the hole for the thread at the blunt end. Info about and pics of nalbinding needles at http://www.flickr.com/photos/ragnvaeig/2516822688/in/pool- nalbindingnutters However, the bobbin which Mark saw has a hole at the pointed end. http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z43/tatmantats/lace/ antiquebobbin1.jpg IMO it's more like a BL bobbin than a nalbinding needle, though I still think it's a tool used for prodding something or boring a hole. The notches on the other end suggest that one end was used to make a hole in something and then a string/cord pulled through that hole using the notches. Of course we are all thinking it's textile related, but it may have been used for something else: a crude tool for sewing up a turkey after it was stuffed? a mini dibber for planting seedlings? some other use? Brenda Could this be a nalbinding needle, nal bin ding, originated in Scandinavia I think, and is a form of knitting (well sort of), using one sewing needle, usually crafted (whittled) from wood, pointy end and a thread hole in the other. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Threads
Sorry Miriam, I've never heard of SoftRise, but if anyone does know please tell me too. Brenda can anyone tell me what kind of thread SoftRise is and who the manufacturer is so I can find a catalog on the internet. What can I substitute for it? Miriam who has returned from OIDFA with a lot of new ideas - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] What are they?
Hello I have been sent a photo of some lace bobbins and lace rings which came from two elderly Dutch ladies who said they are ivory. I personally don't think they are ivory or lace bobbin but would be interested to know what anyone else thinks they are/were used for. Please have a look at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/query.htm Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: [bobbinlace] What are they?
I have asked that question and will let you know when I get a reply. Brenda On 27 Jul 2008, at 21:03, Sister Claire wrote: What is their size, Brenda? I can't tell from the picture. Sr. Claire On Sun, Jul 27, 2008 at 10:58 PM, Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello I have been sent a photo of some lace bobbins and lace rings which came from two elderly Dutch ladies who said they are ivory. I personally don't think they are ivory or lace bobbin but would be interested to know what anyone else thinks they are/were used for. Please have a look at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/query.htm Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bobbinlace/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bobbinlace/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: What are they?
Thank you to Jean, Beth, Janet, Diana, Adele, Bev and Claire for your comments which I have passed on. The general opinion is that the bobbins are stilletos or awls used for broderie anglais or Ayreshire work and that the rings were either curtain rings or button forms. Brenda I have been sent a photo of some lace bobbins and lace rings which came from two elderly Dutch ladies who said they are ivory. I personally don't think they are ivory or lace bobbin but would be interested to know what anyone else thinks they are/were used for. Please have a look at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/query.htm Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] help needed
Jane, The only 28/2 linen (that I've seen) is Juul linen, which measured 2S-19 wraps/cm. Bouc 30 or Fresia 30/2 and Guetermann linen are all very similar, 2S-19 wraps/cm. Knox Falcon 30 and Knox Gimp 20 also measured the same but they were discontinued many years ago. I haven't seen Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is it made?) Goldschild Nm 50/3 (NeL 80/3) is finer at 24 wraps/cm but also being 3 ply it is a bit rounder/firmer than a 2 ply. Brenda On 7 Aug 2008, at 04:33, Jane O'Connor wrote: Is there a comparable thread to 28/2 [Goldshilds Nel 50/3 [green label]? I cannot find anything in the Threads book. Thanks in advance.Jane O'Connor Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] help needed
Hello Sandra Thanks for that info - yes it is Goldschild. Other links to Goldschild on that site bring up the same page. NeL 50/3 - Nm 30/3 is the one size that I don't have, but coming between NeL 30/3 (16 w/cm) and NeL 66/3 (22 w/cm) it is quite likely that it will measure 19 w/cm as per the original query from Jane. Although it measures the same, it's a 3ply thread so won't compare exactly to the 28/2 Jane asked about. Brenda Hello Brenda, see https://www.langendorfkloeppel.de/home/index.php?cPath=31_63 They have Goldschild Leinen Nel: 18/3 = Nm: 11/3 Nel: 30/3 Nm: 20/3 Nel: 50/3 Nm: 30/3 Nel: 66/3 Nm: 40/3 Nel: 80/3 Nm: 50/3 Nel: 100/3 Nm: 60/3 But I'm not sure, if this is the Goldschild linen lace yarn, that you mean. Regards Sandra from Germany (near Munich) --- Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] schrieb am Do, 7.8.2008: Von: Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] Betreff: Re: [lace] help needed An: Jane O'Connor [EMAIL PROTECTED] CC: lace@arachne.com Datum: Donnerstag, 7. August 2008, 11:16 ... text deleted I haven't seen Goldschild NeL 50/3 (is it made?) Goldschild Nm 50/3 (NeL 80/3) is finer at 24 wraps/cm but also being 3 ply it is a bit rounder/firmer than a 2 ply. ... text deleted Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Newsletter
Hello Diana You are not the only one to have forgotten - I was having a tidy up last week and found the renewal form in a pile of papers - and I then realised that that was why my magazine hadn't arrived! I put a cheque in the post on Thursday, (along with the library books that I was returning) and confidently expect to receive the magazine this week. As Sue says, they are very forgiving. I know that direct debit makes that sort of thing easier but I am very reluctant to use it for anything other than absolute essentials such as gas, water, electricity, council tax. Brenda On 10 Aug 2008, at 11:40, Diana Smith wrote: Has anyone in the UK received their Lace Guild magazine yet? I'm wondering if I forgot to renew my subs - must check! Diana in Northants, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Newsletter
Direct Debit is different to using credit or debit cards - more like a standing order but the amount paid each month/quarter/year is variable. It's appropriate for utility bills etc, and better for subscriptions etc than standing orders which have to be changed each time the subs change (increase!). Most organisations like direct debt as it doesn't get forgotten and therefore membership retention is better. I was on the Lace Guild Exec at the time DD was introduced and voted in favour, though personally I choose not to pay Lace Guild or any other subs by DD. Although I have no intention of cancelling my Lace Guild membership, once it's on DD you do have to actively cancel if you want to resign. However, it is a personal preference and many people do find DD more convenient. Brenda On 11 Aug 2008, at 15:36, Lorri Ferguson wrote: Brenda and all, Here in the USA, I was advised by my bank teller that using a 'debit card' was the safest because it is the easiest to cancel if there is a problem later. And canceling the debit card does not cancel the account it is linked to. We have 'debit cards' with numbers just like a credit card. One gives the vendor the debit card number not the bank account number. The card is used just like a credit card but you are not giving the vendor your checking account number. I use one like this for ordering drugs through the mail, etc. Lorri Washington State, USA, in the foothills of Mt. Rainier I know that direct debit makes that sort of thing easier but I am very reluctant to use it for anything other than absolute essentials such as gas, water, electricity, council tax. Brenda - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] question re: terminology
According to the glossary in Mincoff Marriage Fond à la vierge = rose stitch. In the body of the book they say that rose stitch is 'violet stitch' to Germans and 'maiden's grounding' to the French. Pat Earnshaw's Dictionary of Lace says cinq trous, five hole, fond à la vierge, virgin ground and rose stitch are all the same. Margaret L Brook calls it Maiden's net or Point de la Vierge. Cook Stott's book shows 17 variations of rose ground plus cane ground. Then there's Dillmont - she calls it 'double or ornamental ground' and what she calls rose ground is what most people nowadays would call honeycomb. So, take your pick!!! Brenda On 11 Aug 2008, at 22:39, Jane O'Connor wrote: There is a discussion on-going over terminology in different languages. I have one that we in my group have not been able to identify. It is from a 'sGravenmoere book and after much bugging of lacers and research we finally have an English translation but then, the stitch is an unknown factor. 'fond de vierge ' We have figured out it means the background or bottom is done in virgin stitch. What is the virgin stitch? Possibly roseground but if so, why in the same listing of techniques needed for the pattern have rozengrond listed? Jane O'Connor Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] hitches on bobbins
Wendy There isn't really a right or a wrong direction to wind bobbins, but you do have to make the hitch correspond to the direction the bobbin is wound. You should also make sure that all the bobbins on the pillow are wound the same way or you will get confused when trying to lengthen them. Some people can wind one way with continentals and the other way with midland bobbins, I personally can't, I always wind clockwise (looking down at the head). Brenda On 17 Aug 2008, at 12:09, Wendy Davies wrote: Hi De Hi Thank you all for your answers to this question. I am using my SMP bobbin winder for winding the bobbins so will have a look which way they are wound I presumed it is the right way. It is the first time I have heard of left or right hand hitches so another thing for me to look at. It is so frustrating when using thin thread and then having to undo to lengthen the thread as I have to use a pin to separate the thread and I have had an occasion on the piece I am working on that the thread has broken later on down the lace. Wendy St Dogmaels _ Win a voice over part with Kung Fu Panda Live Search and 100s of Kung Fu Panda prizes to win with Live Search - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] England/France lace trade - was [KFHS] Textiles
Hello everyone This message, and my reply, has just been posted to the Kent Family History Society discussion group. Does anyone know anything about the 19th century England/France lace trade? Brenda Begin forwarded message: From: Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 20 August 2008 22:26:06 BST To: Jan Reed [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [KFHS] Textiles Hello Jan I'm not the best of lace historians, but I'll forward your message to 'Arachne' an internet lace discussion group, it's very likely to get a few good replies. Do you know if you are asking about machine made lace or handmade lace? Can you be more specific than just 19th century? Where in France might you be interested in? The traditional lacemaking areas of France include Bayeux, Calais, Lille, Chantilly, Dieppe, le Puy, Valenciennes and there's your Kent link - Valenciennes is twinned with Chatham! Brenda On 20 Aug 2008, at 18:59, Jan Reed wrote: My apologies as this is not Kent based but I wondered if anyone had knowledge of where I might get information of the movement of workers in the cotton/lace trade between uk and France in 19th Century? I vaguely remember something about Courtaulds records but cannot remember how to access. Many thanks Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] scarf pattern
Yaspe (Jaspe) silk from Bart Francis is in Addendum3 and Edition 4, page 45. I measured it as 20 w/cm, but it's a slub thread so difficult to get an accurate measurement. I have just finished (bank holiday weekend) a torchon edging made with Filato per Tombolo di Cantu 30 with Yaspe 30/2 for the workers. Not conventional to mix cotton and silk but I wanted to see how the Yaspe worked up. The mat's to big to get it all onto the scanner so I'll need to mess about with the camera to get a proper pic for the website gallery, but I've added a scan of 1/4 of it to: http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/lacepics/lacepics.html Brenda Also the thread calls for Yaspe shantung 100% siede, silk, soie Nm 30/2 Nel 50/2 I don't see it in Brenda's book but I think it could be 18 wraps. Am I correct? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] New website
Hello Alex If Jean has really only been using a computer for a couple of months she's done fantastically well. There's substance to the site, not just a blog, the layout is clean and the hyperlinks all work. Well done. Re the pattern; as I could see no 'download' button and no hand appeared over the image my (mac) instinct was to click and drag it off to the desktop, which worked. Then I read the instuctions - so right clicked - save image as ad that works too. It printed out at the correct size. However, most people would expect to find some sort of download 'button'. Doesn't have to be a button as such just the word will do so long as it's hyperlinked directly to the image file - and include target=_blank in the html so that it doesn't close the main window. Brenda My friend Jean has produced a web site for both of us at http://web.mac.com/jeanmaryeke. There is something about us, Lindfield Lacemakers and Designers and a free pattern that will be changed periodically. Jean has only had her computer, her first, for 2 months and I think she has done well. Can you open it? What do you think? Any suggestions? and can you download the pattern? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Mixing Threads
Hello Wendy I am making an edging, the book says to use DMC Cotton Perle 8 with DMC 80 Cordonnet Special. Well I have the Perle but didn't have any Cordonnet, so I have used Venus 70 instead. My problem is that it is very hard work as they seem to be fighting each other by that I mean that tensioning is very difficult as they don't slide if that is the right word. I have also substituted the Perle for double Venus for the outer fan edging so I could have the right colour. Venus is very similar to DMC Cordonnet - it's a tad thicker than Cordonnet 80, more like Cordonnet 70, but both are double plied, 2S/3Z. Is your problem with all the bobbins or just with the pairs wound double?. If it's all the bobbins - are you used to using double plied thread such as DMC Cordonnet, Special Dentelles, Coats crochet and Venus crochet? This type of thread is firmer and rounder than single plied thread and doesn't squash together as much. If your problem is only with the bobbins wound double it could be that one of the threads was tensioned more than the other when the bobbin was wound. Is there a tip so that I can ensure this doesn't happen when I try to use substitute threads. If only we had the money to get the correct threads each time. I am slowly building up my thread library so fingers crossed in the next 30 years I might have the right ones each time LOL. In 30 years time it's quite likely that most of the threads around today will be discontinued, your stash will be vintage and the patterns will require something not yet available! Nothing is set in stone, experiment with what you have and get to know how the different types of thread work up and in time you will know what you like and what you don't. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lacemaking threads
Thank you all for the nice comments about my threads book, especially with the recent discussion about mixing threads. For the newcomers to this group I have to say that it would never have got going without all the support from Arachnes from around the world. Like most people I used what I was told to use in the early stages of learning BL - in fact I was told not to use anything which wasn't an accredited lacemaking thread whatever that was and I still don't know what accredited thread is! As I started doing my own thing (I used colour!) I had a few disasters along the way and even when I started teaching I wasn't really sure what was what. When I did the City Guilds exam as a guinea-pig one of the things on the list was to know the difference between a 2 ply thread and a 3 ply thread and apart from simple counting I didn't have a clue! The thing that got me started on he T4L project was a two hour workshop with Bill Hornsby at a Lace Guild convention. Everyone had a reel of thread size 100 in advance and worked a sample on the same pricking and then did a winding and Bill explained the varying results. I thought that this was a great way of comparing different threads and by doing windings of all the threads I had access to I could build up a useful teaching aid. I talked about doing it to a few people locally and on Arachne and so many kind people delved into their stashes and suddenly it wasn't just a list; it was a whole book. I have learned so much along the way. I've made lots of little samples to see how the different threads work up and my recent bookmarks project is part of that. I now know that a 2 ply thread is softer and squashier than a three ply thread and that the double spun 6 ply threads are very firm and round and keep their shape when made up - that's why DMC Cordonnet makes a makes a crisp but harsh feeling lace suitable for mats and doileys whilst DMC Broder Machine makes a much softer lace more suited to a hankie or underwear which will/might touch the skin. I have discovered that most threads designed for machine stitching of seams is three ply, but Anchor Drima is only 2 ply and suddenly I realised that that was why that thread kept breaking when I used it on the sewing machine. Coats Drima is 3 ply and OK. Threads intended for machine embroidery are 2 ply as they spread out and give better surface coverage for the satin stitch. Do I mix threads in BL? Yes of course I do. For most projects I try to keep silk with silk as it's a protein fibre whilst cotton, linen and rayon are cellulose and will mix together. Metallics or synthetics I generally only use for accent and are fairly inert if it comes to washing the lace. Now to look through the stash to find something suitable for the next computer manipulated pattern. It's lace meeting later today and I want to be winding the bobbins if not actually starting the lace. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] My Humming Bird
Hello Sue Some laces just have to be coloured don't they. Your pic of Megan reminded me of our Sam. Terry finally took him to the vet's for the last time on Friday last week. He was 14 and a bit years old. Brenda On 1 Sep 2008, at 09:23, Sue Duckles wrote: Hi All I've recently finished Louise Colgan's humming bird... just uploaded a photo to arachne webshots. http://community.webshots.com/album/562969811lwzEvS I think i've just found my new favourite lace in colour of course!!! Sue in EY - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Any ideas on what this is?
Terry has something a bit like it cluttering up a cupboard - for fishing not lacemaking! It's an old fishing reel attached to the handle part of an old fishing rod; I think it was used for transferring fishing line from one reel to another which is why it has a second clamp for attaching a second reel. It doesn't have have the pointed end, just the inner ferrule where it would have been attached to the rest of the fishing rod. See: http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/fishingrod.JPG Maybe the original owner of this one had some sort of aperture, or even soft ground, that the spike could be inserted into whilst the spool was being turned. Brenda On 3 Sep 2008, at 01:19, Adele Shaak wrote: I don't recall seeing any responses to this post - maybe everybody else is flummoxed, too? I think it's part of a fishing rod - possibly you stuck a reed on the spindle part to make a full-sized rod - but I'm just going on my imagination and have no real knowledge. I certainly can't think of any way this contraption could be used for lacemaking. Adele North Vancouver, B.C. (west coast of Canada) Any ideas on what this item is on ebay? http://tinyurl.com/59c2ku Item number 320292495309 described as: Vintage Pimative wood lace maker spindle spool reel Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lace design packages for pc
As Bev says, 'best' is whatever suits the user's needs, but industry standard (Mac and PC) is Adobe Illustrator. The other specialist lace design program, available for both platforms, is Knipling http://www.knipling.de/knipling/knipling-kn30en.html Photoshop isn't really a drawing program, just an image processor. Brenda On 13 Sep 2008, at 18:44, bev walker wrote: Hello Celia and everyone 'best' lace software design just depends on the user. There are several choices of hobby software just for lace design, the two in English have free demos to try. There are the computer-assisted drawing programs, and even the simpler drawing program such as Paint. There is some helpful information here: http://www.xs4all.nl/~falkink/lace/SoftKlos-EN.html and Jo also discusses Photoshop and Corel draw here: http://www.xs4all.nl/~falkink/lace/SoftAlg-EN.html Also if you can get into the mail archives for this list (I'm sorry I don't have the link - but someone 'here' will have it) and do a search for lace software, or Lace 2000, or Lace RX-P (did I get that right? name of new program) you will find previous discussion. Hope this helps ;) On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 10:09 AM, Celia Mulhearn [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote: Whilst demonstrating my colleagues and I got into a conversation about which design package was best for a computer. I mentioned 'Coral draw' but was wondering what your ideas were, I know it's been discussed before but didn't really follow the thread. My friend is using Windows 98 and wondered which to try Thanks in anticipation to your suggestions Celia Mulhearn - in a sunny(for a change) SE London. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on a bright Saturday morning, beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] threads for Cantù question
Hi Bev Can you get common or garden cotton sylko 50 (Amman/Coats) - or any other cotton intended for regular machine stitching of seams? Brenda On 19 Sep 2008, at 17:02, bev walker wrote: Hello everyone ...and anyone who does Cantù lace, just a question - what thread(s) do you use? I'm working on a simple piece, thread specified is just 'no. 40 for Cantù which I'm guessing is one listed in Brenda's thread book as the Filato per Tombolo variety. I don't have that, have tried Finca for lace 40 and 30, and now Coats Encaje 30, this last one looks the best. It isn't easily available, that I've seen though. I might start tinkering with enlarging the pattern to try other round-y threads, such as Cebelia 30. -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] threads for Cantù question
Hi Bev Since Filato di Cantu 40 is 32 w/cm Amann/Coats Sylko is 32 w/cm and Tootle Sylko is 31 w/cm and you say Sylko is too fine it suggests that the number 40 specified wasn't Filato. If you're thinking that the pattern needs about 20 w/cm it could be that the original used DMC Cordonnet 40, Coats crochet 40 or one of the minor brands of 2S/3Z tatting/crochet cotton. Brenda On 19 Sep 2008, at 18:17, bev walker wrote: Thanks for the reply Brenda. The garden variety g cotton thread is too fine for the pattern. Photo-reducing it isn't an option. Coats Cometa 40 is 26 wraps in T4L. #30 not given - I ought to send you a sample ;) (I have an idea that it has been discontinued though) Looking at the wraps for Filato per Tombolo di Cantu 40 (32 w.) and 30 (21 w.), and comparing in hand to Sulky 12 wt. (21 w.), I hazard a guesstimate of 19 or 20 w. for Coats Cometa 30. Possibly the pattern spec. is wrong, and Filato 30 was used in the original. The Sulky could be too flimsy for the particular pattern (and me) where I need the leverage of strong smooth thread. I might try a sample using it, because it is readily available near me. Now holding the DMC and the Cometa in hand, Cebelia 30, at 20 w. seems slightly too coarse. It does pay to sample :) On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 9:18 AM, Brenda Paternoster [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Bev Can you get common or garden cotton sylko 50 (Amman/Coats) - or any other cotton intended for regular machine stitching of seams? On 19 Sep 2008, at 17:02, bev walker wrote: I might start tinkering with enlarging the pattern to try other round-y threads, such as Cebelia 30. -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Any ideas what this ebay item is?
To me it looks like a fancy knob for a four-poster bed. I wonder where the other three are! Brenda On 22 Sep 2008, at 09:07, Jean Nathan wrote: Any ideas what this ebay item is? Can't believe it's a lace bobbin. 19TH LARGE LONG SILK IVORI LACE BOBBIN RARE Item numbber: 180291700210 tinied: http://tinyurl.com/3sz72n Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Alan Brown
I'm very sad to hear that, my condolences to Sheila and family. Brenda On 24 Sep 2008, at 22:16, Tess Parrish wrote: For those many people who know Sheila Brown, she has just emailed me with the sad news that her husband Alan has just died after quite a siege with cancer. Some of you may already know this, but I thought others might not. Tess ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Fwd: lace exhibition (in South Africa)
A while ago I helped Janis Savage and her friend Kim Lieberman work out a grid for Kim's lace sculpture project and I have just received this message from Janis. Hello Brenda, The exhibition of lace, for which you helped me work out the grid, is finally on show. You can see the article written for the Mail Guardian newspaper here http://www.mg.co.za/article/2008-10-18-extreme-craft-meets-art and another picture here http://www.mg.co.za/section/arts When the process of making bobbin lace was explained to her, thejournalist, Andrea Vinassa, coined the phrase extreme craft to describe lacemaking. which is probably quite apt to compare lacemakers with extreme sportspeople who obsessively take their sport to ever greater extremes and are cosidered a bit crazy to keep on doing it. I made 8 of the chaotic ground circles and when it just got too boring doing the same pattern over and over again, I arranged for a group of lacemakers to do another 9 while Kim did one. She will send you a catalogue of the exhibition in due course. The artworld here are apparently blown away by the works but I will be interested to see if any of them are sold. When I looked at the prices quoted for them and got my breath back, I think, as lacemakers, we must be considerable undervaluing our work - one of these bronze figures with it's lace collar is R36,000 + VAT!!! That works out at about $3500 + tax or GBP 2500, even at today's poor exhange rate of the SA Rand. Thanks for your help anyway. Greetings from Janis Savage South Africa Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bucks point grid size
Sue If your Bucks grid has a working angle of 58 degrees you can make five corners for a pentagon shape or if it has a working angle of 60 degrees six corners will make a hexagon. Otherwise you have to cut and paste and do all sorts of odd things or design a proper Bucks corner which takes the cloth stitch/gimps etc right across all the ground from the headside to the footside. That's the reason why traditional Bucks point does not usually have corners, instead a straight edging is gathered around a corner. Brenda On 23 Oct 2008, at 10:32, Sue wrote: Thanks Sue, I had recognised that fact from the obvious different look along the short sides of the rectangle to the long, but I thought it was just me and was hoping that it could work right by using another grid (apart from 45 deg). I was hoping to make this as a bucks point pattern without having to cut paper and use sticky tape. Because I had the short length right (with the funny shaped grid, I now need to rework that out to fit the space I have). I wish I was better at maths, grin. I will get there eventually, I like it too much to give up now. I did change the pattern to a couple of other different numbers of grid with no better success. Sue T, Dorset UK Sue Babbs wrote: You can't print a rectangular Bucks pattern on one grid - as you have discovered when you turn the corner the grid angle will change. If you were working at 52 degrees then having turned the corner it will be 90-52 degrees ie 38 degrees. The corner will need to be carefully designed to transition from one to the other. You will need to print one of the correct strips with a corner - and physically cut and paste as needed. Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] bucks point grid size
Hi Sue No you wouldn't need 72 degrees to get a pentagon. The working angle is the angle between a line of ground pins and the line of foot edge pins, not the angle that the corner turns. Draw a pentagon, mark the centre and divide it into five triangles around the centre point. If everything is equal and the triangles are isosceles the five angles in the centre will each be 72 degrees. For any one of the triangles the other two angles together will be 180-72 = 108 degrees, so each will be 54 degrees (I got it wrong too!). Now look at one of the triangles. The outside edge is the footside and the side that goes down towards the centre point is the line of ground, so the working angle is 54 degrees. If you did have a working angle of 72 degrees, each triangle would have two angles of 72 degrees, so the other one would only be 36 degrees and you would end up with ten sides For a hexagon it works out that every angle is 60 degrees (which doesn't make for the best looking Bucks point) and the working angle is the same as the turning angle. Same with a square. Divide it into four triangles, the four angles at the centre are each 360/4 = 90 degrees, so the other two will be 45 degrees and 45 degrees - the working angle of torchon. Brenda On 23 Oct 2008, at 14:01, Sue Babbs wrote: Not spending time to check my thoughts, but wouldn't you need 72 degrees to get a pentagon? 5x58 = 290 so you are 70 degrees short of a circle, which is what you'll need isn't it? Or are my early morning thoughts missing something? Sue - Original Message - From: Brenda Paternoster To: Sue Cc: Sue Babbs ; Arachne Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 6:01 AM Subject: Re: [lace] bucks point grid size Sue If your Bucks grid has a working angle of 58 degrees you can make five corners for a pentagon shape or if it has a working angle of 60 degrees six corners will make a hexagon. Otherwise you have to cut and paste and do all sorts of odd things or design a proper Bucks corner which takes the cloth stitch/gimps etc right across all the ground from the headside to the footside. That's the reason why traditional Bucks point does not usually have corners, instead a straight edging is gathered around a corner. Brenda On 23 Oct 2008, at 10:32, Sue wrote: Thanks Sue, I had recognised that fact from the obvious different look along the short sides of the rectangle to the long, but I thought it was just me and was hoping that it could work right by using another grid (apart from 45 deg). I was hoping to make this as a bucks point pattern without having to cut paper and use sticky tape. Because I had the short length right (with the funny shaped grid, I now need to rework that out to fit the space I have). I wish I was better at maths, grin. I will get there eventually, I like it too much to give up now. I did change the pattern to a couple of other different numbers of grid with no better success. Sue T, Dorset UK Sue Babbs wrote: You can't print a rectangular Bucks pattern on one grid - as you have discovered when you turn the corner the grid angle will change. If you were working at 52 degrees then having turned the corner it will be 90-52 degrees ie 38 degrees. The corner will need to be carefully designed to transition from one to the other. You will need to print one of the correct strips with a corner - and physically cut and paste as needed. Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Hand made lace for sale on ebay
Most of the edgings are Leavers machine, number 2 is Barmen machine, 6, 8 9 are chemical lace and 10 is Swiss embroidery. The smallest doiley is machine tape put together by hand, the circular doiley beside it could be anything, the picture isn't good enough to tell, the oval doiley is Leavers with a bit of Barmen around the edge, the smaller hankie is probably Leavers. The bigger hankie might just be BL, or it might be Barmen - again the picture isn't good enough to see what the corners are like. I see the seller is in Robin Hood county! That's no more a place than is 'Hot-pot county', 'Pork pie town' or 'Tartan kilt land' It's a pity the Trade Descriptions Act can't be enforced against Ebay sellers! Brenda On 23 Oct 2008, at 09:23, Jean Nathan wrote: Described as ANTIQUE HAND MADE LACE BOBBIN HONITON NOTTINGHAM Old for sale on ebay: http://tinyurl.com/6kata2 Item number 220299471215 Is any of this hand made? I don't think any of it is, apart from the tape lace doily. I'd say the rest of it's machine made - the broderie anglais most certainly is. There's definitely no Honiton included, and Nottingham is a machine process anyway. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Small thin bobbins
I have a couple of ivory - yes ivory from legitimate sources - made by
Barry Adams which are 9cm long but of average thickness. I used to
think that they were short because he'd used old piano keys but he said
no, it was because his ex-partner has very small hands and she prefers
the smaller length and as he developed his own style of bobbin turning
it was based on that shorter length.
I guess that historically it's always been the case that the
bobbinmakers made what suited their customers. Bucks thumpers are
shorter than the average midlands bobbin and some may have preferred a
similar length. Also if you've got a lot of bobbins on the pillow very
slim bobbins ('Old Maids') bundle together better.
Brenda
On 28 Oct 2008, at 06:47, Brian Lemin wrote:
Thank you for your contributions. Most interesting. Some folks have
asked me
the size:
They are 8 cm long and 5mm at the largest part (just below the neck)
There is no doubt in my mind that they are old, so travelling
bobbins are
not really an option (I stand to be corrected of course)
I was always under the impression that these were really old bobbins.
From
where I got that idea I have no notion!.
The fact that they are bone bothers me as I would have thought that
wood
would have been the oldest material.
I have a couple that just breach that description (short and thin)
and are
fully decorated
and from known makers.
Over the years of my bobbin studies I have moved from trying to prove
Who
made them, what were they used for but I still like to enquire as
not
being a lace maker makes me ask these questions first.
The chances are that they made from small bits of bone that were
available
to the maker. They would not want to waste useful material.
Just as simple as that.
Fashion too seems to play a part in the trends.
There was a time when bobbins were quite thick (say 8mm in dia) but
modern
bobbins have become quite thin again. (This is of course a sweeping
generalization) When I was making bobbins I had a handy little
clientele
that actually asked me to make thicker bobbins so they could handle
them
better. I presume they had issues with arthritis etc.
In the South bucks range of bobbins there are some quite small ones
(Dumps/
bobtails) I think they may be called.
It is just interesting (to me at least)
Thanks again
Brian and Jean
from Cooranbong, Australia
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Re: [lace] Emailing: Halloween.jpg
Hello Sheila You can't post images to Arachne - you have to upload them to a website somewhere and post the URL link. Brenda On 30 Oct 2008, at 16:01, Alan Sheila Brown wrote: The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments: Halloween.jpg Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent sending or receiving certain types of file attachments. Check your e-mail security settings to determine how attachments are handled. I hope this one comes through. Still cold and wet. Sheila in Sawbo' [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Halloween.jpg] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] eBay item
It's the type of thing the Victorians did (is it right to say Victorians for 19th century Americans?) but I don't think it's BL, looks more like NL to me. Brenda Amazing item on eBay no 120328659264 Antique bobbin lace mourning memorial made of human hair - the hair of Anne Clerke. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Thread - help, please?
Hello Linda Swedish linen almost certainly means Bockens linen. Bockens 90 would suit torchon drafted on a 2mm grid (4mm between footedge pinholes) Brenda On 15 Nov 2008, at 20:55, Linda Walton wrote: The pattern is from Raie Clare's The Dryad Book of Bobbin Lace, the book from which I taught myself . . . quite a long time ago. It was published in 1987, in case that helps. The thread prescribed is Swedish linen thread no. 90. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Advent calendar
Hello everyone Here in England it's almost December and I've done another Advent calendar. Various thoughts, ideas, musings etc on the Christmas theme. There's a link from my homepage, as in the signature at the bottom. On 24th December there's a little quiz with a small prize, open until 31st December. Actually I'm still working on it, so even if you know how to cheat you can't see all the pages yet! Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Advent calendar
Oops, sorry, that was last year's winners! I realised what I'd done just after I'd shut the computer down and it was too late at night to change it. I've been busy changing the daily pages and forgot to update the wrapper page! Should all be OK now. As before it's a hotch-potch, but all on the Christmas theme, a couple of recipes, patterns and general musings - ramblings etc. This year there is just one prize, a Lace Guild calendar and you'll have until the end of December to do the quiz which will appear on Christmas Eve. On 1 Dec 2008, at 00:23, Sue Duckles wrote: Brenda The advent calendar lace looks great but why does the page give the impression that it's already the end of December by saying who won the quiz? Sue in EY On 30 Dec 2008, at 23:15, Brenda Paternoster wrote: Hello everyone Here in England it's almost December and I've done another Advent calendar. Various thoughts, ideas, musings etc on the Christmas theme. There's a link from my homepage, as in the signature at the bottom. On 24th December there's a little quiz with a small prize, open until 31st December. Actually I'm still working on it, so even if you know how to cheat you can't see all the pages yet! Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Card Exchange
How right you are! I have several lace and other Christmas ornaments from Christmas exchanges and I can't remember who some of them are from. Maybe I should put up a web page with them all an and ask if anyone recognised their work! Brenda On 3 Dec 2008, at 16:17, Janice Blair wrote: I usually keep all my exchange cards and bring them out each year in one display, so if it goes on the tree in a few years I will probably forget who sent it to me. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Card Exchange
I've just done that web page http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/arachne/exchanges.htm Brenda On 4 Dec 2008, at 08:52, Brenda Paternoster wrote: How right you are! I have several lace and other Christmas ornaments from Christmas exchanges and I can't remember who some of them are from. Maybe I should put up a web page with them all an and ask if anyone recognised their work! Brenda On 3 Dec 2008, at 16:17, Janice Blair wrote: I usually keep all my exchange cards and bring them out each year in one display, so if it goes on the tree in a few years I will probably forget who sent it to me. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Christmas Greetings
Hi Sue The best I can offer is from http://www.mincepieclub.co.uk/Mince_Pie_News/Mince_Pie_History/ The_History_Of_The_Mince_Pie.html To make Pyes - Pyes of mutton or beif must be fyne mynced and ceasoned wyth pepper and salte, and a lyttle saffron to coloure it, suet or marrow a good quantite, a lyttle vyneger, prumes, greate raysins and dates, take thefattest of the broathe of powdred beyfe, and yf you wyll have paest royall, take butter and yolkes of egges and so tempre the flowre to make the paeste. Brenda On 15 Dec 2008, at 14:29, Sue Duckles wrote: Just been on Brenda's site to see todays offering (15th). My husband wants the 'original recipe'!! Sue in EY On 15 Dec 2008, at 10:33, Brenda Paternoster wrote: and a reminder that there's a link to the Advent calendar on my homepage - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Christmas Greetings
Just over a week to go now! My electronic Christmas card to you all is at http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/Christmas/2008/card08.htm and a reminder that there's a link to the Advent calendar on my homepage Merry Christmas Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] fan patterns
Hi Linda There are a number of big fan patterns around, or you could enlarge a smaller one, though coarse lace doesn't usually look good on a fan. The main thing is that you *MUST* be sure that the lace will fit your sticks before you start making it. It's not only the diameter of the inner and outer edges of the lace which needs to fit, the pattern should also be right for the number of sticks - if it's a repeating design the sticks need to come at the same place on each repeat, and also the decorative inner part of the sticks should look right when the fan is opened - most fan leaves are a bit less than half a circle but if you make a leaf which is the full semi circle it might not look right when opened out fully. Brenda On 14 Dec 2008, at 19:27, Lynda Barnes wrote: I was given some really beautiful fan sticks trouble is they are big! from start to end of the sticks they are 35cms the lace for the stick would be 21 - 22cms as you can see a very big pattern is needed. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Thread help
Hello Ann It depends which DMC 50 you mean. DMC Cordonnet 50 is similar thickness to Bouc 50, both are 23 wraps/cm. DMC Coton a Broder is/was finer at 30 wraps/cm and DMC Broder Machine 50 is finer still at 42 wraps/cm. Bev has already listed a number of alternatives to Bouc 70; Bockens linen 60/2 or Fresia linen 80/3 are the nearest. Of the more available cotton threads Presencia Finca 30 and Venus 70 both measure 27 wraps/cm (marginally finer). A single strand of most stranded cottons is 25 wraps/cm or thereabouts but the 2ply soft twist of those threads means that it doesn't have the 'oomph' of a linen thread. Finca is 3ply and Venus is 3x2ply so they both have more body to them. Brenda On 20 Dec 2008, at 20:52, ann.humphreys wrote: I'm sure someone will be able to tell me this. Would DMC 50 be an acceptable equivalent thread to use instead of BOUC 50 linen thread and what would be an alternative to BOUC 70? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] card exchange
I've sent uncompressed images of the lace cards to Janice - they are big files! Also I would like to ad my thanks to Jenny for putting all the exchange lace onto the website, and I do hope your sight problems get sorted properly. Merry Christmas Brenda On 21 Dec 2008, at 23:40, Janice Blair wrote: Brenda, do you have a larger picture of your Christmas tree lace? Even when I enlarge it I can't see the detail of the lace. I also want to say a big thanks to Jenny for putting everything on the website, including my tree patterns. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] subs for Tanne 80?
Hello Marianne I am looking for threads that can be substituted for the Tanne (Cotona) 80. I don't have either of these, and am wondering if any that I have on hand would work, since I want to start the project now, not in 2 or 3 weeks Egyptian Gassed 80/2 or YLI Heirloom Sewing 70/2. Can anyone tell me what the Ne or Nm equivalent would be? To convert from CC (English cotton count, also sometimes called NeC = Number English cotton) to Nm (Number metric) multiply by 1.69 Thus 80/2 CC is 135 Nm To convert to NeL (English Linen number) multiply the CC by 0.36. Thus 80 CC = 29 Nm Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] subs for Tanne 80?
Oops sorry!! I should have said To convert to NeL (English Linen number) *DIVIDE* the CC by 0.36. Thus 80 CC = 29 Nm 222 On 29 Dec 2008, at 09:29, Brenda Paternoster wrote: Can anyone tell me what the Ne or Nm equivalent would be? To convert from CC (English cotton count, also sometimes called NeC = Number English cotton) to Nm (Number metric) multiply by 1.69 Thus 80/2 CC is 135 Nm To convert to NeL (English Linen number) multiply the CC by 0.36. Thus 80 CC = 29 Nm Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] or these instructions?
The lady I watched on a street corner in Belgium was actually making reverse lace! She was making a big show of it and tossing her bobbins around but when I looked closely she was doing: cross, twist, cross, twist, untwist.. Perhaps she learned BL using a few inches of string! Brenda On 30 Dec 2008, at 06:47, Jenny Brandis wrote: http://www.essortment.com/articles/make-handmade-lace_6501.htm which states: I have been to Belgium and seen the ladies doing it on the street corner. -- Jenny Brandis, Kununurra Western Australia URL: www.brandis.com.au/craft/lace EMAIL: je...@brandis.com.au - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Mixing fibers and gimp question
Hello Donna My first question concerns the thread. The pattern calls for Egyptian Cotton 80/2. As I said though, I'm putting this on linen. Does one usually mix fibers for the lace and fabric? Most people would find it acceptable to put cotton lace onto linen fabric, but it is a question of personal choice though I would definitely pre-shrink both the lace and the fabric before attaching the lace - and, if the lace isn't gathered then ease it to the fabric to allow for the possibility of a bit more shrinkage.. The main problem with mixing the fibres is the colour difference, sometimes a white cotton gimp is very different to the white linen of the rest of the lace, which is itself a good reason for making up your own gimps from several strands of the main thread. Re substituting linen for Egyptian 80/2; finding a linen thread fine enough is going to be the main problem. I'm not sure if you can still get Bouc 140/2, but that was the finest available, and even so it's a little bit thicker. Egyptian 80 = 50 w/cm, Bouc 140 = 46 w/cm. However, with the finer threads 4 wraps either way doesn't make that much difference. Re the path of the gimps - sit down with (enlarged) copies of the pattern and mark in the exact course of the gimp threads. I don't know the pattern you refer to. I assume it's point ground, and yes it is OK to double up the gimps around honeycomb holes (no twists between so that the gimps stay close together) and that is definitely preferable to having lots of ends that could eventually work loose and look untidy. Whatever you decide on this is going to be a big project so it will be worth the effort of making samples of the lace, partly to see if you like the effect of whichever threads you choose and pertly to see how it attaches to your fabric. Good luck! Brenda I know from knitting and spinning that mixing of fibers can give different results when it comes to laundering. And as I hope this will get passed down from my daughters to their children, will the different fibers age differently? If I should use a linen thread what would be an equivalent? I have a conversion chart but it shows no match for a linen thread in comparison to the Egyptian Cotton 80/2. My second question concerns the pattern itself - the gimp actually. The pattern calls for 2 pair of gimp and where the fingers are I can see where each pair go. What I'm unclear of though, is the gimp around the honeycomb. Does or could one double up the gimp around the honeycomb between each pattern or would it be preferable to start and stop the gimp with each pattern? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Advent calendar quiz - winner
Thank you to everyone who entered the quiz. Just about everyone got questions 1-10 right, but no-one guessed question 11 correctly! It was actually two pairs of socks; one multi colour stripes and the other black with multi coloured spots; knee length for my daughter to wear with her boots. So, all 18 entries went into the hat and the winner is: Pene Piip Pene would you please let me have your address so that I can send you your Lace Guild calendar. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Advent calendar quiz - winner
They were bought from MS and had the combined wrapper/hanging hook attached, so they were not easy to wrap neatly! It's a heck of a long time since I hand knitted any socks. I did knit a couple of scarves for the grand daughters this Christmas - 3 x 50gms fluffy yarn, cast on 35 stitches and knit till the yarn ran out. Couldn't have been simpler! Brenda On 5 Jan 2009, at 12:37, pene piip wrote: Wow, what a surprise! I have sent my address privately, Brenda. Last year I knitted quite a few pairs of socks as birthday presents. So were these ones hand knitted or bought, Brenda? Thanks for the fun calendar, Pene Brenda Paternoster wrote: Thank you to everyone who entered the quiz. Just about everyone got questions 1-10 right, but no-one guessed question 11 correctly! It was actually two pairs of socks; one multi colour stripes and the other black with multi coloured spots; knee length for my daughter to wear with her boots. So, all 18 entries went into the hat and the winner is: Pene Piip Pene would you please let me have your address so that I can send you your Lace Guild calendar. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] mangling bobbin storage
And some of those 83 degrees please - we've been down to -7 deg C with fog to go with it - nasty! Definitely staying indoors and making lace weather. Brenda On 10 Jan 2009, at 01:28, Clay Blackwell wrote: I was full of pain and compassion for your discomfort and misfortune with the broken finger, but that part about the chocolate covered frozen key lime pie on a stick... well - that was just too much. I think that in penance, you should send each of us a share of it... Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Thread Identification
Hello Delores I have a 1950s book The Identification of Textile Fibres which goes into great detail about microscopic and chemical tests to distinguish one fibre from another, but unless you have your own laboratory to hand If you are just trying to decide between linen and cotton the best thing is to look at it with a powerful magnifier, at least x8. Untwist the plies and then untwist a single ply and the individual fibres will separate out. If it's cotton none of the fibres will be more than about an inch or so long, if it's linen they will be much longer, up to about a metre/yard in length. Also spun linen/flax tends to have slubs in it whilst cotton is generally much more uniform. Linen thread is nearly always spun in the S direction, cotton can be either. Is there a label on this cone? or anything printed onto the cone itself? Brenda Could someone tell me how to test a thread to see if it might be linen? I have a large cone of thread I believe is linen but would like to know for sure. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Victorian Farm was lace-digest V2008 #276
Hello Sue Chemical lace is cotton embroidery on acetate fabric, then the whole lot is steeped in acetone or something similar to dissolve away the acetate leaving only the embroidery. Discovered in the 1880s I think so Victorian but slightly late for the 1850s setting of the TV programme. http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/ID/Chemical.html Once you've seen a few pieces of chemical lace it's very recognisable even though it can have so many different styles. Brenda On 19 Jan 2009, at 11:45, Sue wrote: Brenda, you may have seen this coming, but I now have to ask what chemical lace is please? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] lemongrass Obama dress
Guipure, especially when used by a fashion designer, is a rather general term which just means a lace made up of separate elements and 'custom' means it was designed for the client. From the close-up picture in the link that Jane sent http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/in_pictures/7840306.stm (image no 8) it does look very much like chemical lace, machine embroidery worked onto a dissolvable fabric which once removed leaves a holey, lacey fabric. You can't see from the picture what fibre it is made from, but it could be wool embroidery and lined with silk The image is actually a little bit bigger than it displays on the BBC web page, so right click and 'Save As' - or on a mac just click and drag it to the desktop. Brenda On 23 Jan 2009, at 13:29, hottl...@neo.rr.com wrote: Hello again! How does wool lace in silk net, described by the designer as custom guipure, translate into chemical lace?? Susan in Grassy Key Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] lace for a wedding gift
Hello Sr Claire If they are not doily people I'd suggest that lace trimmed pillow cases aren't suitable either as they would need more care with laundering than plain ones. Bookmarks only if they are avid readers, otherwise they might just end up lost between the pages somewhere. A framed medallion sounds good though. Do you do any lace designing? Something with their initials and the marriage date worked into it? Brenda I'm out of the loop with regard to wedding presents at all, and I haven't been to the US for 25 years so I want to check on what would be an appropriate lace gift. Some ideas I've had are a pair of lace-trimmed pillow cases, a framed lace medallion, his and hers bookmarks. They don't strike me as doily people. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] eBay 120365023152? French object (tool)
I've done a few jewellery classes and have drawn wire by hand. Even very thin wire very definitely has to be clamped at one end and clasped tightly with pliars at the other end on order to pull it through the holes and it's quite a physical effort. Gravesend Adult Ed Centre has a very well equipped jewellery workshop. For wire drawing a heavy metal plate with holes in (rather like a very heavy knitting needle gauge) is clamped at one end of the apparatus. The wire is filed to a point to push a few mm through the required hole, grasped with very heavy pliars and pulled through to narrow and elongate it. There is no way the little contraption on ebay could be used for wire drawing! I think it may be for positioning threads in embroidery - or even for crimping pastry but not wire drawing! Brenda On 27 Jan 2009, at 05:25, Avital wrote: So my guess was right (and if I'd been paying attention, I would have seen the French and translated it but I've had a cold for a couple days). It's a tool for drawing wire. Wire is made by hammering a piece of metal into thinner and thinner (and longer) pieces. The final wire is formed by drawing it through a gauge with pre-formed holes (we're talking about wire-making by hand). I wasn't sure about it because most of the wire-drawing tools I've seen had handles that enabled you to clamp them to a work bench because you want the gauge to be fairly stable so that you can draw the wire through with a pair of pliers. If the metal were very soft, I guess you could use a hand-held wire-drawer like this. Here's an article explaining the process: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_drawing Most wire-making is done by machine these days but there are jewelers who do wire-drawing by hand. Arlene Fisch describes the process and tools in her book, Textile Techniques in Metal. (Great book. Pity it appears to be out of print at the moment.) Avital On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 12:00 AM, Susan Reishus elationrelat...@yahoo.com wrote: The online translation is for the ebay item is: Draw wire Handle in oak Very beautiful general presentation So must be something for wire to place while working with it. Conceptually reminds me of a French knitter so one can work in a tube. The openings seem disturbingly harsh for threads, imho. I agree that often listers can unknowingly misrepresent items. Best, Susan - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] eBay 120365023152? French object (tool)
On 27 Jan 2009, at 05:25, Avital wrote: So my guess was right (and if I'd been paying attention, I would have seen the French and translated it but I've had a cold for a couple days). It's a tool for drawing wire. Wire is made by hammering a piece of metal into thinner and thinner (and longer) pieces. The final wire is formed by drawing it through a gauge with pre-formed holes (we're talking about wire-making by hand). I wasn't sure about it because most of the wire-drawing tools I've seen had handles that enabled you to clamp them to a work bench because you want the gauge to be fairly stable so that you can draw the wire through with a pair of pliers. If the metal were very soft, I guess you could use a hand-held wire-drawer like this. Here's an article explaining the process: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_drawing Most wire-making is done by machine these days but there are jewelers who do wire-drawing by hand. Arlene Fisch describes the process and tools in her book, Textile Techniques in Metal. (Great book. Pity it appears to be out of print at the moment.) Avital On Tue, Jan 27, 2009 at 12:00 AM, Susan Reishus elationrelat...@yahoo.com wrote: The online translation is for the ebay item is: Draw wire Handle in oak Very beautiful general presentation So must be something for wire to place while working with it. Conceptually reminds me of a French knitter so one can work in a tube. The openings seem disturbingly harsh for threads, imho. I agree that often listers can unknowingly misrepresent items. Best, Susan - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Interesting Lace Find!
Hi Mark It looks very much like Barmen machine to me, and yes, narrow tallies like that can be made on those machines. Brenda On 3 Feb 2009, at 19:24, Mark, aka Tatman wrote: Hi all lacing friends, This past weekend Kim and I were shopping for costumes and props for the HS musical(South Pacific) at some antique shops in the area. Much to my surprise my peering eyes spotted in one of the cases this old booklet full of lace samples! Who would have thought I would find this! Normally I just find lace lengths or shuttles or threads. But I have never seen a Lace Merchants sample booklet. It is titled Imported Cluny Laces by Brookside Manufacturing Corporation, 114 East 32nd Street, New Yor 16, NY. There is no copyright date to indicate its age. I am assuming the early part of the 20th C. The booklet is 13 inches tall and made of blue card stock of separate pieces that are bound with darker blue cloth strips. Each folded card section is 13 inches tall by 14 inches wide. Most of the samples look to be torchon technique. But from I gather it is handmade lace not manufactured machine lace. I can see in the samples some mistakes and also there are some leaf tallies. As I understand that feature is hard to duplicate(??). Correct me if I am wrong! Each sample has a color and number. Take special note of the price per yard. YIKES! Below are the images from front cover to back. Click on the images for a closer view. Front cover: http://tinyurl.com/ah8f5d Pages 1-2: http://tinyurl.com/b2d9p8 Pages 3-4: http://tinyurl.com/cp42yo Pages 5-6: http://tinyurl.com/d8fsaq Pages 7-8: http://tinyurl.com/d324mo Pages 9-10: http://tinyurl.com/bvncxn -- Mark, aka Tatman (who had a terrific WIPEOUT on the ice this morning, walking to work. I am sure the people in the passing car were laughing their heads off!! G) Temporary website: http://my.att.net/p/PWP-tatmanlace Temporary blog: http://tatmantats.wordpress.com/ email: tatmant...@gmail.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Metallic thread for needlelace
Hello Liz I'm not a needle lacer but I've done enough to know what it's about and I personally wouldn't recommend using any thread which is wrapped, ie the metallic part is wraped around a silk or viscose core as the friction of pulling the thread through the work many times will cause the metallic wrapping to snag, pull away and expose the core thread, Madeira No 40 and Sulky Metallic are both wrapped threads, as are most of the finer metallics. I haven't seen Butterfly metallic but if it's a conventional twisted thread then use that. Looking through Ed4 the finest of the readily available metallics is DMC Fil Or (Fil Argent if it's silver) which is probably similar to your Butterfly brand. The DMC is 2Z/3S and although it won't separate easily I think you would be able to get a needlefull at a time. Brenda On 7 Feb 2009, at 04:44, Elizabeth Ligeti wrote: I need to use gold thread in Needlelace - for the cordonette around the edge, and maybe(Probably) for some couronnes (the little fancy rings that are stab stitched on afterwards.) I have Madeira #40 gold 4, Sulky Metallic, and Butterfly brand (a 3 ply so I would use only one of the plys, I think) Question - Has anyone had any experience with using any of these for Needlework - needlelace or Embroidery? I am wondering how easily the gold splits and wears through to the cotton core (I am presuming they all are made similarly) Which one might be the easiest - or best- to use? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Aussie bush fires - Helen Gannac
I'm not sure if Helene Gannac is still subscribed to Arachne, or if the email addy I have for her is still current, but I know she lives in Victoria. Helene are you safe? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Aussie bush fires - Helen Gannac
Thank you to Liz, Laura, Ruth Joanne for letting me know that Helene is visiting her family in France, so well away from the terrible fires Brenda in Allhallows, Kent where we'd be happy to let some of our rain go down under. http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: [lace-chat] CROCHET HOOKS
There used to be TWO sets of sizes for British crochet hooks. The bigger ones for use with knitting yarns were the same as the old British knitting needle sizes, The steel hooks for use with finer crochet cottons had a different set of sizes although the two sets of numbering did overlap a bit. see: http://www.crochettreasures.com/conversion.htm Also someone mentioned engineering wire gauges - the old British knitting needle/crochet hooks are actually (imperial) Standard Wire Gauge or SWG, whilst the old American sizes are American Wire Gauge or AWG, aslo known as Brown Sharp. They are both indirect sizes which mean that the higher the number the finer the wire/needle/hook. See: http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/conductor.html I don't know what system the old British steel hooks followed. On 12 Feb 2009, at 16:36, lucie...@uottawa.ca wrote: The Canadian/UK seem to be the old imperial sizes at least they are when I look at the few I've got!! Yes, they are! We even had for a while conversion gauges made of metal or plastic with graduated holes in them listing the US, CAN and MM sizes on them. CAN equaled BRITISH. I have a few still, somewhere. If you would like one, let me know by sending me your address. Lucie DuFresne Ottawa Canada To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace-chat y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] threads
Yes you're right, DMC Cordonnet 100 is very similar in thickness to Broder machine 30 or Bockens 100/2. Finca 40 and DMC Cordonnet/Dentelles 80 are all a little thicker whilst Brok 100 and Finca 80 are both much finer. Brenda On 13 Feb 2009, at 06:30, Lorelei Halley wrote: Hi Can somebody help with a thread question? I have an internet friend who has Finca 40, Finca 80, DMC 80, DMC 100, and Brok 100. But has a pattern which calls for Broder machine No 30 and Bockens Linen 100/2 I would have said DMC 100, but am not sure about Finca or Brok 100. Any ideas? Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] thread equivalent?
I haven't seen Ariane cotton - or any other thread which is 32/2. A Google search for Ariane cotton 32/2' gets: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg11172.html Brenda On 24 Feb 2009, at 02:35, d2one...@comcast.net wrote: Can someone suggest a thread equivalent for ariane cotton 32/2? I do recall this question was asked some time ago on Arachne, but I don't recall that an answer was ever given. This thread is used in a pattern by Michel Jourde. 1 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Rescued piece of lace/thread
Like th eothers I think that this is more torchon than Cluny and that it's more likely to be linen than cotton. If just over 3 stitches per inch means that there are just over 3 pinholes per inch - along the footside then it's a spacing of just less than 1/3 inch or 8mm between the pins. The optimum thread size for that grid is, as Tamara says 15 wraps/cm. However, as we don't know how old the lace is it would be wrong to suggest that it's made from something currently available; there was a lot of Knox's linen used in the past. Three twists in the working doesn't make the thread 3 ply. Mark, is it 2 ply or 3 ply? Brenda On 24 Feb 2009, at 05:35, Tamara P Duvall wrote: I am guessing at size 40-50? It is just over 3 whole stitches per inch on the footside. According to various charts I have -- some with photos of samples -- a similar density is achieved by linen 35/2 in lace which has 4 footside stitches per inch. So, if this one has only 3, then the tread is coarser than that. Unfortunately, none of the charts I have even mentions a 3-stitches-per-inch footside :) I'm not sure my math skills are up to getting it right from Brenda's book, but I'll try. According to her book, the optimum (and the thread in your piece is certainly well chosen) is 12wraps between footside stitches for Torchon (I agree with Alice, that the piece is more Torchon than Cluny). So, with 3 stitches per inch, it's 36 wraps per inch, or 36 wraps per 25mm. Or 14.4 wraps per 10mm/1cm, which is how she counts her wraps. In the 14 and 15wpcm columns, she has only one well known brand of linen and that's Bockens 25/3. The linen used in your piece is a 2-ply, not 3, I think. So, at the moment, there seems to be no 2-ply linen available that is that coarse :) Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Rescued piece of lace/thread
Hello Mark No, I don't think it's handspun, but I do think it's linen. I can see that it's S twist, which is what I'd expect a linen thread to be, along with variations in thickness. The two linens which fit the description are Knox's Floss 20 or Knox's Falcon 25, both of which measured 2S/16. Falcon is the more likely since it was on a reel and Floss was skeins. However, I couldn't tell you for sure even if I had it in my hand. Shame about the cigarette smoke smell - that is probably adding to the colour too, it will probably come up much whiter if you choose to wash it. Brenda On 24 Feb 2009, at 15:20, Mark, aka Tatman wrote: Upon examination I would say it is 2 ply. And it isn't highly twisted. There is a lot of thick and thin variation. So you think this thread was hand spun linen, instead of manufac Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] How about this for a lace bobbin
Hmmm... I agree that the bulbous end is probably a handle. The abrupt end to that 'handle' makes it look as though there should be some sort of cover that slips over the narrower part. Could it be a tool for turning, say, glove fingers? But then why would it have fancy turning? And why do midlands bobbins have fancy turning? Only for aesthetic value. Brenda On 28 Feb 2009, at 08:39, Jean Nathan wrote: How about this for a lace bobbin? http://tinyurl.com/crnjay or search for item number 170306947189 The seller says I've been to watch the Spanish lace making ladies. None seemed to have anything like it and they all said it was very old., and she asks if anyone can tell her what it is. I've got no ideas on what it could be. The bulbous bit on the end looks like it could be a handle. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] measure problems
Hello Francis I too have Googled and found a few useful pages. The best one is: http://www.colourmart.com/eng/knowledge_base/knitting_properties other useful info at: http://www.kilkeelknitwear.com/new_page_19.htm (bottom of page) http://reviews.ebay.com/Machine-Knitting-Acrylic-Yarns-Weights-and- gauges_W0QQugidZ100935914 http://www.knitgrrl.com/?p=508 The problem is, most knitting yarns are made with crinkly fibres. This makes the finished yarn a bit elastic so that you can easily get the second needle into the loop on the first needle without having the stitches so loose that they fall off the first needle. It also means that there is a lot of air inside the yarn making it look thicker than it would otherwise be. If you try to make a wrapping to measure the wraps/cm (or wraps per inch/2.5cm for the thicker yarns) to compare with other known thread/yarn do you wrap loosely to keep the yarn in its relaxed state or pull hard to eliminate much of the air and get a result which matches something with a similar amount of fibres per metre but which is in reality much thinner? Another reason why you don't find many knitting yarns with a Nm or other number may be because synthetic fibres are less dense than natural ones. Nm is the number of 1000m hanks produced from 1Kg of fibre. If that fibre is significantly less dense, 1Kg will contain a lot more fibres and therefore make a longer length of thread. In 'from Source to Sink' Pat Earnshaw lists the various fibre specific gravities as: Linen 1.54 Cotton 1.54 Silk 1.30 Wool 1.32 Rayon 1.52 Synthetic 1.14 I decided not to include wool/acrylic knitting yarns in Threads for Lace partly because of the stretchiness problem, partly because so many knitting yarns are here-today-gone-tomorrow fashion yarns and partly because relatively few lacemakers use very thick yarns, though the numbers of us who do is increasing. Usually the lacemakers who do use knitting yarns are experienced enough to be prepared for some unexpected results! I have measured some of the plainer yarns in my knitting stash and am pleasantly surprised at how consistent the measurements are: 2 ply lace weight (Shetland) - 9 w/cm 3 ply baby yarn - (suits old size 12, 2mm needles for stocking stitch) - 8 w/cm 4 ply (fingering) (suits old size 10, 3.25mm needles for stocking stitch) - 7 w/cm Double knitting (suits old size 8, 4mm needles for stocking stitch) - 6 w/cm Aran weight (suits old size 6, 5mm needles for stocking stitch) - 5 w/cm I haven't tried winding the boucle, slubby, eyelash or other fancy yarns as the results could be all over the place! If you do find a woollen yarn with a Nm number it's likely that it is made for weaving. Weavers have similar problems to lacemakers in that setting up a loom with lots of warps takes time, and the thickness of the thread does have to be matched to the spacing of the warps in the heddle. Much the same as winding dozens of bobbins takes time and the thickness of the thread needs to match the scale of the pricking, so weavers too want to get it right first time. Also weavers generally choose fairly smooth yarns, just as most bobbin lacers choose smooth thread. Brenda On 28 Feb 2009, at 11:58, Francis Busschaert wrote: Hallo to all i have an other question it is also knitting related on that knitting event in Holland were i found those lovely knitting needles i was also there as an seller of our threads and quite often we were confronted whit a question i did not directly had an aswer for they asked if it was laceweight, and other teminolegy concerning the thickness of the threads i have to say i m very good in conversions in Nm Nec linnen wool deniers etc but thatone is again an other kind of mesurements i did not know i have googled for it but did not find until now a good conversion towards Nm or other known numbers i can relate to so i hope, as most of you are not only bobbin or needle lacers, but generaly whit a very broad horison in textiles and can be considered as the real genuan textile-maniacs / filo-maniac like myself (they say its a mental desease that keeps you from the streets) and so that you can solf the problem so is there any out in the virtual world knowing exactly how its working from those laceweight towards real Nm or Nec or den measures? or and that is what i have found until now onn the net they give a kind of fork/interval of numbers were that kind of thread could be pinpointed in many thax in advance francis kortrijk belgium the sun is shining the crocus flowers are getting open the first signs of summer - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com
Re: [lace] threads
Hello Sue I haven't seen either of those but the Perivale 130/3 means 130 denier x 3 plies, probably just a little thicker than common or garden Sylko cotton. Re Ackermanns. 50 will be a size, if it's yardage/meterage yds or meters is always written after the number. Silk is usually measured in denier but it could be another measurement such as Tex, Dtex, Dram, Micron or Metric number. 50 denier will be a lot finer than the 130/3, probably of the thickness for fine point ground lace. Brenda On 1 Mar 2009, at 12:30, Sue wrote: It says it is Perivale sewing silks, the size mentioned is 130/3. there is lots of thread on those two. Another little one with it called Ackermanns 50 the word Schlusselgarn on the other end label. I feel the 50 might be the meterage rather than the size of the thread, although it does seem fine or maybe the equivalent of broder 50 or 30. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Hello Diana Brok 100/3 is the only other thread anything like Finca 80 Brenda Can anyone suggest some equivalent threads to Finca 80 please. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Using Tanne or DMC Broder machine instead of Brok 100/3 or Finca *will* make a difference to the feel of the lace because both Tanne and Broder Machine are 2 ply threads which will make a softer, more draping lace. 3 ply threads are rounder and the lace has more 'body' to it. If all you are concerned with is finding a suitable thickness for your pattern then yes you could use one of the Tannes, or nearer in thickness would be Egyptian 80 (a couple of wraps either way doesn't make a great deal of difference with the finer threads). But if you want a substitute for Finca 80 that matches in both thickness and structure the only choice is Brok 100/3. Make a sample piece with your chosen thread, take the pins out and see if you like the effect. Brenda I shall be using it for a floral Beds motif - adapted by Anita Wilkinson from one of the old units prickings - so adding an extra pair here or there shouldn't be a problem. Depends how close you need to be. Brenda has just said Brok, but Fince 80 and 100 are both sold as equivalent to Tanne 80. This latter thread sits between the two Fincas, slightly nearer to 100 I think. I have used both as alternatives to the Tanne 80 and prefer the 100, but only because with Milanese I prefer the option of putting an extra pair or two in if needed, to trying to do a braid with less pairs than I really need. So, if whatever you are making could cope with a slightly finer thread, then the Tanne is an option. Much closer (only 1 wpc different) is the DMC machine broder (or the older retors or brilliante d'alsace). I don't think that amount of difference would affect the appearance of the lace at all. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Laceweight Yarn vs. Thread Thickness
Hello Fancis I have a great love of Sanquhar (and also Selbuvotter, which is less 3 ply specific). it sound very Nordic or Irisch or does it make part of some other ancient knitting slang? it even sounds to me like part a figure from lords of the ring Selbuvotter is the Norwegian two colour star knitting patterns. Sanquhar is similar from Scotland. as far as they recollect they only have uesed Nm and in the old days they had 3 other numbers but then one of the region of limoges france told me that even that is a very very long time ago Worsted numbers Dewsbury numbers which are for the very thick counts and the woolen numbers I have a little booklet from The Handweavers Studio which explains the old numbers - well actually I have two copies, one with my notes scribbled on it and one in good condition! I will put that in the post to you tomorrow. Brenda Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Knitting yarn thickness
Following the recent discussions about this I have done some wrappings of the knitting yarns in my stash and put together a web page: http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/knittingyarns.htm I'm not planning a huge project like Threads for Lace !! but if anyone can add useful information Brenda, burning the midnight oil and ready for bed - in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Ideas
Hi Alex As an edging to plain a plain collar On a Christening gown; between yoke skirt either side of a front panel around the hem As a picture frame Around a pin cushion Two lengths side by side as a garter Edging the flap of an envelope style nightdress case Appliqued diagonally across one, or two opposite corners of anything rectangular such as a mat or a prayer book cover gathered/rolled up to make a lace rose for a corsage Folded over and over in a zig-zag to make a jabot Brenda On 13 Mar 2009, at 10:09, Alex Stillwell wrote: I am currently working on the 2nd chapter which is an edging 7/8 ins (23mm) wide and I need an idea for using it with or without a corner. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: lace on hankies
That's fine for tatting or crochet where you attach the lace as it's made but if you are attaching BL or any other pre-made lace to the edge of a hankie you should always make the fabric fit the lace and not try to make the lace fit the fabric. ie attach lace to oversize fabric and then make some sort of hem. If you have an edging with corners what are the chances that a readymade square of fabric will be exactly the right size without easing/stretching the lace? Brenda If you want some nice hankies all ready to attach lace try hhtatting.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Lacemaking or Lace making
Thank you to everyone who has replied to this thread, far too many to reply to individually, but Noelene the poem is lovely - I've printed it out to stick into the back of my copy. I'm pleased that the large majority of you prefer lacemaking as one word. That's what it has been for the first four editions, and will be for Ed5. Re: lacing, I think that's probably an American expression but I have noticed that some of Terry's birdwatching friends sign emails with 'happy birding' instead of 'happy bird watching', though I suppose that 'birding' could include writing up notes etc whilst bird-watching is just looking through the binoculars. And guess what - birdwatching is queried but bird watching is accepted by Mail! Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Lace or Lacemaking 3
Jean, I very much agree with you. Actually color/colour was another thing the (electronic) typesetting people queried because both are in Ed5. It's color in 'JP Coats Color Twist' because that's how the label is, it's an old reel of cotton from America, but all other instances of the word in Ed5 are spelled the British English way, colour. The Americanism that bugs me is their use of single consonants in words like travelled/traveled. The basic rule of grammar that I learned was that a vowel followed by a single consonant and then E says its own name, ie a long sound whilst a vowel followed by two consonants then E is prounounced with a short vowel sound, so travelled is pronounced TRA-VEL-D (as most people do pronounce it) but traveled should be pronounced TRA-VEEL-D. Another Americanism that I find odd is that they have exhibits but they don't have exhibitions. The -ise -ize is thing is more complicated and goes back to whether it comes from a Greek root. In older British English writings the ize form is more common than it is today. The French/latin influence over the last century has made a lot of words in British English take on the ise form instead of ize whilst America, and surprisingly Canada, have not taken the French influence so much. There is one Americanism that I do like though (I think it stems from middle English and the very earliest settlers) and that is gotten, past tense of the verb get. In British English we just say got. Unusual for the American version to be longer than the British form. On 20 Mar 2009, at 08:32, Jean Nathan wrote: Not adopt, but accept. Both s and z are now acceptable for words ending in 'ise' - ie your spelling probably wouldn't be marked as wrong if you used z. Color - no. A lot of us cringe at 'aluminum' and I don't think that will ever come into general use here. 'Program' is used for anything computer related, otherwise it's 'programme'. With appalling spelling often coming from texting (that hasn't made it into my spell checker yet) - never will understand that - I don't doubt that once us old fogies are gone an entirely new system of spelling will emerge. No need to learn shorthand any more Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] YLI Colours
Following the recent discussions about UK and US spelling, does anyone in America have a spool of 'YLI Colours'? Does the label say Colours or Colors? It's an American company but the spool I have, which was purchased in UK at Ally Pally Knitting Stitching, reads 'Colours' and was made in Japan. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] YLI Colours
Hello Sr Claire and Ilske Thank you for that info - all the more reason to keep to my English spelling! Brenda On 21 Mar 2009, at 10:21, Sister Claire wrote: For a long time it was usual for UK companies to keep UK spelling when they marketed in the US because UK spelling was believed to be perceived by Americans as having an aura of prestige. For a similar, but opposite reason, American companies marketing in the UK adopted UK spelling there. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Patterns from Retournac - and a thread question
Hello Beth Using a 3 ply thread instead of a three ply one will make the lace slightly softer and it will drape better, a three ply would be a bit crisper. Depends what you want to use it for. Claire's Lace stocks Fresia and Bockens http://www.claireslace.co.uk/ SMP stock Fresia http://www.smplace.co.uk/ Roseground have Fresia and Moravia http://www.smplace.co.uk/ Church Meadow Crafts have Bockens http://www.churchmeadowcrafts.com/ Jo Firth has Bockens and Fresia http://www.churchmeadowcrafts.com/ I can't find anywhere in UK which still has Goldschild linen. Tim Parker's website comes up but he retired a couple of years ago. Barbour's linen appears to have been taken over by Coats group, but there's nothing about linen thread on the Coats website. Brenda On 28 Mar 2009, at 19:11, Beth Marshall wrote: Which brings me to the thread question: the pattern sheet suggests 50/3 linen for these; Threads for Lace has three 50/3 linens listed: Barbour, Bockens Pellavia, all at 20 or 21 wraps/cm which is about the same as Fresia 40/2 linen which I already have. How much difference to the finished appearance/texture would it make to use the two-ply Fresia instead of a 3-ply linen? Also does anyone know how many of the three 50/3 linens are still available, and which UK suppliers are likely to stock them? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] threads
Hello Susan I've been following the linen metallic thread discussions with great interest. What sort of lace would be made with Goldschild linen aka Londonderry or Rainbow Gallery?? I have both in my embroidery stash neither one looks too appetizing to me, i.e thick bumpy. Heavier Torchon probably - or Russian braid lace. What sizes of Londonderry/Rainbow Gallery line do you have? I am trying to confirm that these are all the same threads, just with different brand labels attached. Goldschild usually quote both the metric Nm and the Linen NeL numbers (Nm is always a smaller number than the NeL) I have some Danish linen that is much finer more appropriate (in my mind) for lacemaking. Is that Moravia 40/2? If so it's not Danish but from the Czech Republic. This is another case of the same thread getting different brand names. Jana Novak of Atelier Moravia in Denmark is Czech by birth but emigrated to Denmark as a young woman. However she sources her lace threads in the Czech Republic. I don't know who produces the linen; I think it goes back to the communist days when everything was state controlled and brands didn't exist, but some of my 'Moravia equivalent' linen came from another Czech lacemaker/teacher, Anna Hallikova, at one of the Lace Guild conventions. The metallic threads Jana sells are also Czech, made by Texlen. Texlan make a bigger range of metallics than Moravia take. As to metallics, Madeira Astro is a wonderful product far superior to Kreinik blending filament, for use in embroidery. Astro in Medeira threads just means varigated colours. Madera use the same description for their rayon and polyester threads. However, the only metallic which comes in Astro colours, as well as solids, is No 40. It's a wrapped thread which mans a strip of metalised polyester is wrapped around a core of rayon filaments. It's smoother than most of the twisted metallic threads but not so good if it's going to get a lot of friction (ie making sewings) because the outer wrapping strip can get broken to expose the core. Another metallic that I have not yet seen mentioned is YLI, called Candlelight I believe, it comes in a nice range of colors. It is a heavier metallic would work nicely as a gimp for a tatting cotton weight thread in the ground. There are lots of other brands of metallics out there too. Bart Francis, Mez, Anchor, Presencia, Habu Textiles, DMC, Anchor .. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] more threads
Hello Susan HV-Garn 40/2 isn't especially fine, 21 wraps/cm, but it does (or is that did!) come in a lot of colours. Assuming Londonderry is Goldschild; 50/3 Nm, which = 80/3 NeL is a bit finer at 24 wraps/cm, though the three plies will make it feel a bit sturdier. I haven't seen Rainbow Gallery linen. All the Rainbow Gallery threads I've seen in UK are wound onto cards with perhaps five or ten yards depending on the thickness, so intended for embroidery as there isn't enough to do much else with. As it's Swedish I'm wondering if it's Bockens under another label! Rainbow Gallery sell a lot of Glissen Gloss threads on cards, and a lot of the Glissen Gloss threads I have are Madeira Gissen Gloss with the same names! It all gets so confusing! However, 16/2 linen is pretty thick - Bockens is 12 wraps/cm. Brenda The linen, well it isn't Danish at all--my apologies to the Danes--but Swedish! HV-GARN 40/2 in the most delicious shades of cornflower blue. The crazy quilter in me bought it because it was s-o-o-o lovely, but I've never used it. The Rainbow Gallery (made in Sweden) is 16/2 , according to the card, is intended for cross stitch needlepoint. They were received in a gift basket I haven't used these either. The Londonderry is 50/3 I must confess I bought it to dress my slate frame for Elizabethan work. And I know darn well there is some DMC linen floss in there somewhere, but it's hiding. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Starting and finishing
Alex, I agree too, it's very unprofessional as a teacher not to offer all of your knowledge. If you have bright students who are interested in the subject there are bound to be times when they ask something you don't know. Providing you either make every effort to find out, or encourage the student to find out for themselves that's OK. It could be that the query is Why do you do something this way? what happens if you don't. Often trying it the other way is the best way of learning why something is done. As for getting 'bums on seats' over the years I've seen that happen with other crafts too. One jewellery tutor from years ago always tried to ensure that his students never finished a piece of work at the end of a term so that they had to go back the next in order to use the equipment. (very few students have annealing facilities or polishing equipment at home) I started teaching BL way back in the early 1980s - because the teacher was retiring and there was no-one else around to take over her classes. I remember asking her do you think I could do it? and the reply was well you can start and you can finish, and you can wangle it when it goes wrong! What I think she meant was that I didn't rely on her starting every piece - which many of her students did and I think she encouraged them to, to be sure that they didn't take on something she couldn't do herself. Wangling is sorting out a mess, not necessarily undoing the mistake(s) but compensating by perhaps leaving out a pair less or a pair more somewhere else to get all the pairs back to the correct places - not good practice! Sometimes if a beginner got into a muddle she would take their pillow home to sort it out before the next lesson. She only did that to me once and when it came back the carefully marked workers had become passives. I think that was a deliberate action, but I learnt more from undoing it again to get back to where they had been switched over. That was as a pretty raw beginner; I don't bother about winding in matching pairs now. Work a few pieces with half stitch and you get used to all the bobbins moving around independently of the original partner. Brenda On 1 Apr 2009, at 22:39, Alex Stillwell wrote: I thoroughly agree with you. Anyone learning lace must be taught how to start and finish, they are essential parts of the process of making lace. I usually get my students to think about starting and what to look for when they approach a new piece, and make sure they are well aware that for some patterns there may be several different lines along which to start, all of which may be equally valid. I always suspect teachers who do not teach starting and finishing. 1. As you say, they think they are keeping 'bums on seats' but the students are being short changed. 2. They are they incapable of teaching them because they do not understand the process properly, in which case they should not be charging for their services. I have always taught everything I know, I keep nothing back; that is what a teacher is paid to do. If you are enthusiastic and teach to a high standard you are more likely to keep students than by short changing them. If you are a teacher and do not know the answer to a question that comes within your remit then it is up to you to find the answer for the student. I kew little more than my students when I started teaching in the early 1970s, but I studied hard and did my best to keep ahead of them. Students are surprisingly tolerant even when you make mistakes, providing they know you are doing your best. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers
Hello Sue What I have found is that because I have flipped the pattern strip to fit at the corner, I have the working lines going in opposite directions, therefore when I get to the centre side join I found the change. I have ignored those lines and worked them all the same, so guess I need to learn not to flip the pattern in that way, for the future. You need to rotate the pattern rather than flip it over to avoid that problem. Alternatively you could flip it before you mark in the worker lines, Also, having got this far with my hanky I am thinking about working a garter, this time the complete width and in nice crisp cotton, using the shirring elastic I know some of you use, but wondered if between you all there are some really favourite elements you always use, or do you choose to do them all differently (obviously that last question for those who have done more than one). At the moment I am thinking of what I might put in before I try putting some bits together on the program. Are you asking do we use spiders, or roseground, or leaves or gimps or halfstitch blocks etc etc? I use them all. But not all in the same piece! If you are intending to work in just white, or any other plain colour, you need to introduce a variety of textures by using a variety of different stitches. If you are planning to use several colours then the colour itself makes pattern and you need less variety in the stitches used. The best way to get to grips with designing is to look at other people's patterns. Look at how the different fans work, try substituting rose ground for spiders (sometimes it will work, sometimes you end up with a row of plain ground). Count the pinholes to see why. Ask yourself why the designer has done something slightly different. The more you look at patterns the better you will understand them and the more confident you will get. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] A help : what is bertha?
Hello Elizabeth A bertha, or bertha collar, is a wide collar which lies flat over the garment bodice. It's likely to be about 6-8 15-20 cm deep. The opening is usually worn at the back. No collar should be an exact circle around the neckline, it should be slightly oval to fit around the neck and shoulders, but a bertha collar opened up and laid flat will look a bit like a wide circular edging with ends that have not yet been joined together. As in the picture on the webpage you posted. For other collar shapes see: http://www.infovisual.info/06/043_en.html Brenda On 4 Apr 2009, at 21:34, Ellizabeth wrote: Helo, spiders, Can anyone help me? http://marisa-connuestrasmanos.blogspot.com/2009/01/soles-de-tenerife- espaa.h tml In this site, in the post above - soles de tenerife - we can see the expression bertha in teneriffe lace. Searching in the web, y saw many times the word bertha with words like patterns, collar, etc and etc. like this little texte from e-bay: This pattern will make two pretty dresses, both with Bertha collars, and pouf front waistlines. Dress A has long sleeves, lace covered yoke with ruffled high collar and Tab Bertha. Dress B has short gathered sleeves and Bertha collar. Sleeves and collar are edged with lace. Can anyone tell me what this word bertha can says? Thanks elizabeth horta correa www.nhandutideatibaia.com.br 0xx11 4412-1082 ehcskype - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Survey Invitation
Dear spiders I've had a few responses already - in the first couple of minutes! It's only a bit of fun, but will hopefully give an overall idea of what lace and other craft activities we all get up to! Brenda On 5 Apr 2009, at 22:33, paternos...@appleshack.com wrote: I have put together a short survey about bobbin lacemaking and the experiences and preferences of Arachne members. It is anonymous and there are no questions about money or other personal details. Brenda Paternoster http://www.questionpro.com/akira/gateway/1205463-0-0 Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] news story on Alice in Oregon
Oh Alice, that's a lovely article, and the reporter certainly made a lot of pretty accurate notes - which is more than most of them do! Brenda On 5 Apr 2009, at 21:06, Alice Howell wrote: My husband just found that the write up on me and my bobbin lace in 2006 is in the online archives at our local newspaper. It is a rather good writeup considering the reporter knew nothing about the art when she did the interview. The archives do not show all the pictures that were in the printed article. It you have a few minutes and would like to take a look, here's the link: http://web.newsregister.com/news/results.cfm?story_no=210976 Alice in Oregon -- sunshine and supposed to reach 70 degrees today and tomorrow. Then cool again. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Survey
Hi Marji, and everyone I just happened to find the questionnaire site and thought I'd give it a try, and the response has been amazing, 74 replies already in just 8 hours! What you can do for free is limited - only ten questions, but it can be text answers, it doesn't have to be check boxes and radio buttons. If the good folk of Arachne would like another survey in a couple of weeks time just tell me what questions to ask! I think I can do another one for free. I was going to ask about how many lace books you have, how many bobbins and pillows you all have, bobbin preferences, collecting lace etc, but ran out of questions. I also messed up the question about coloured lace for the first dozen or so replies - got the answers down the left instead of along the top. Thanks Sue for pointing that out Because it's not for commercial purposes I have chosen not to see the sending email addresses, all I get is a city; my own response came up as London which is about 40 miles away. I can also get the answers in an Excel file which is great for statistics. It's Easter next weekend, Lace Guild Convention the weekend after, and then I'll get all the stats put together, probably in a webpage, for everyone to see. Meanwhile let me know of any other questions. Brenda On 6 Apr 2009, at 02:22, Marji Sakievich wrote: It was interesting to do but I was wishing that I could add comments on the things I would like to do or learn. Marji --- On Sun, 4/5/09, paternos...@appleshack.com paternos...@appleshack.com wrote: From: paternos...@appleshack.com paternos...@appleshack.com Subject: [lace] Survey Invitation To: lace@arachne.com Date: Sunday, April 5, 2009, 3:33 PM I have put together a short survey about bobbin lacemaking and the experiences and preferences of Arachne members. It is anonymous and there are no questions about money or other personal details. Brenda Paternoster http://www.questionpro.com/akira/gateway/1205463-0-0 __ This email was sent to lace@arachne.com on behalf of: paternos...@appleshack.com Unsubscribe: http://www.questionpro.com//akira/unsubscribeEmail.do?id=48696675 Report Abuse: http://www.questionpro.com/akira/rptabuse/1-32401160-571165 - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] question about threads used in Lace Express
Hello Theo Thank you for that info - and I have CCd this message to the Arachne group. I'm not advertising, it's just passing on information! Brenda On 6 Apr 2009, at 16:53, Theo Brejaart wrote: Hello Brenda, This is just to inform you that I still stock following coloured threads: Bockens 35/2 and 60/2 Klippans 16/2, 35/2, 40/2 (on skeens) DMC 237/30 and 50 (brillanté d'Alsace) on spools of 300 and 500 mtrs kind regards, Theo Brejaart, Bergsonstraat 154, 3076 RN Rotterdam, Netherlands tel. ++ 31 10 4194715 www.brejaart.com E-mail: breja...@tiscali.nl - Original Message - From: Brenda Paternoster paternos...@appleshack.com To: Marianne Gallant m...@shaw.ca Cc: lace@arachne.com Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 4:28 PM Subject: Re: [lace] question about threads used in Lace Express Finding coloured linen is difficult! If you can't get Bockens 60/2 which is 26 wraps/cm the nearest in colour is either Moravia 40/2 at 22 wraps/cm so thicker, or Goldschild 80/3 (Nm 50/3) which is 24 wraps /cm Coloured substitutes for Brok 32/2 which is 31 wraps.cm include DMC Special Dentelles, 30 wraps/cm or Coats Amman Sylko at 32 wraps/cm. Sylko will probably work up closer to Brok than than the Dentelles which being double plied is quite hard in texture. Brenda On 6 Apr 2009, at 00:48, Marianne Gallant wrote: They use a lot of 'Brok' 32/2 cotton in assorted colours, as well as 'Bockens' 60/2 linen in several colours. I can only find these threads in white or off-white, no colours. Have these coloured threads been discontinued? If so, what would be appropriate subs for these threads? Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Another fence by joep
Hello Jo, Ilske It opened with Safari for me - but you do have to have Windows Media Player installed on your computer. I have taken some screen shots of the video playing. They are .pdf files so won't open in a web browser, but I have uploaded them to: http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/fence/Picture 1.pdf http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/fence/Picture 2.pdf http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/fence/Picture 3.pdf http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/fence/Picture 4.pdf http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/fence/Picture 5.pdf They can be downloaded and viewed in Adobe Reader or whatever software you have that will open .pdf files. Brenda On 6 Apr 2009, at 21:33, J. Falkink wrote: I tried to capture one or two screenshots, but it is somehow tecnically protected. The old fence is one on http://www.demakersvan.com/ but imagine it in front of some 10-story building, like http://207.44.228.232/photopost/data//2/5Couwenhoven_flat_20.jpg By the way, wouldn't it be an idea with thinner wire to make bird cages or doors of rabit houses? Jo, I get only the message that Safari can't find the side. Have any idea what to do? Ilske Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] coloured linen thread
Hello Beth Anyone know how many wraps/cm the 50/3 (Nm 30/3) is? It isn't in edition 4 of threads for lace and I can't connect to the addendum page for some reason! I haven't seen that size, but from the other sizes of Goldschild I'd guess its 19 or 20 w/cm. The addendum pages are all up and running OK, but Goldschild linen isn't in any of them because all the sizes I've seen are in Edition 1. And is the French pattern (one of the latest set from Retournac museum) likely to be referring to Nm or Nel when it calls for 50/3 linen? Most linens are quoted with the NeL size. As far as I know, the only other linens which come in size 50/3 is Pellava from Finland. That's NeL 50/3 Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
