Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Scott Ritchey
Having been through a few hurricanes in FL, the important things are (1)
well pump ... if you are on a well, (1a) lift station if you have one (2)
refrigeration so your food doesn't spoil although it's good for 2-3 days if
you don't open the door, (3) a light or two to dress, bath, etc, (4) a fan
if it's summer, and (5) computer (if the phone still works) so you can
communicate with friends and family.  

I don't think solar and an inverter is up to doing the job.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 4:17 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog


If somebody found that link I'd be interested.
My backup plan when the power goes out is the woodstove for heat (which
heats the whole house pretty good after a fashion) my camp stove to cook on
and the 110ah marine battery formerly used to heat my 240D for
lights/radio/computer.
My inverter is only 400w, the battery will go about 2 hours at maximum draw
but I don't do that if I can help it. Running a couple lights and the laptop
it'll go just about forever. I've got ~17w of solar to replenish it a bit if
theres sun.
So far we've lost power only a couple times and only for a few hours each
time.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:22:27 -0500
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

During power outages, plan to use a camping stove or the BBQ and maybe
 the microwave. Don't wash the clothes etc.
The generator will run the lights, the furnace fan, the refrigerator
 etc but probably not all at once. Be prepared
to shift things around a bit. If you don't have outages often or for
 long, extension cords etc are probably
sufficient. If it happens all the time and for longer than a few hours,
 then you will find it more comfortable if
you have something bigger and more permanent. There is a nice writeup
 on a web site by a fellow in Florida who has
to contend with hurricanes. He has a setup with one of the Lister style
 diesel engines and a big genrator head. He
has written a good description of how and why he has done what he has
 and some tips on how to adjust the thing etc.
I don't have the url here but it is on the computer at home and could
 be obtained if anyone is interested.

Randy

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 so this 6k diesel unit, will that power a house?  What size is needed 
 to
 power a house and run just about everything.  At least be able to run 
 the
 basics anyway.

I think those 5-6kW units are enough to be able to run the things
you need, though not without lifestyle changes.  (Green Acres-style
time-sharing of limited electricity.)  Double that for ones that'll
run everything if you're an all-gas home.  Up to 50kW for the
all-electric home and a refusal to adapt to the power outage.

 (and cook!) with the wood stove---but it'd be nice to have enough
 capacity to run the hot water heater and maybe the washer, too.

A water heater is some 4kW.  I think a stove element is 2kW.

 so what size would a person need that would run everything at the same 
 time
 like regular line power?

For us?  50kW.  The electric furnace itself is 28 kW all by itself.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Gas W140? Was - rod bender

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Also, auto tranny fluid does not absorb water like brake fluid and it
 does not wear out.

It can get water in it, but unlike the brakes it's circulated,
heated, and vented.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
OK, so I bought it today.  $390.  (Picked up a big swamp
cooler too, $230.)  I made a web page for it:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3.html

I won't be able to do much with it for awhile.  But you
get while the getting is good.  If you want to save money.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Mystery Noise Time - Embarrasingly Loud

2007-09-15 Thread Zoltan Finks
Thanks, Larry. I had not noticed your response until tonight. Yes, I
want to pull off all the wheels and inspect. Would be great if that
was all it was.

But unfortunately, I did hear the noise after the car had come to a stop.

Brian
87 190D

On 9/13/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Do you have dust shields in your wheels?  Mine started making a noise like
 those machine gun lawn sprinklers - a piece of the metal caught on the
 brakes and make a squeak with each turn of the wheel.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 .

 - Original Message -
 From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 4:06 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] Mystery Noise Time - Embarrasingly Loud


  Okay, a noise started today, and it's so loud it's pretty much
  prohibitive in terms of driving. And of course, it indicates something
  wrong, so the car is all but out of commission until it's solved. This
  is the 87 190D. Description follows:
 
  In summary, sounds like a stick is stuck in the wheel - sort of that
  playing card-in-the-spokes sound but louder. I figured it to be
  vehicle speed related, but just as we pulled into our street and
  stopped, I noticed that the noise continued after the car stopped
  rolling. (noise was tapering off in speed and volume at this point).
 
  The speeds I have noticed it at are from about 15 to about 35. I think
  it may taper off at higher speeds.
 
  I have some vague guesses, but does this sound familiar to anyone?
 
  I quickly scanned for anything caught in the wheels, and I looked for
  anything caught in the fans.
 
  Brian
  87 190D
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

2007-09-15 Thread Scott Ritchey
Probably a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder ... just like brakes.  But my
last Datsun was 1973.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:13 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

My girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks 
like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed the  air

out of the clutch?



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[MBZ] Cranking sessions - was primer pump on 190D

2007-09-15 Thread Zoltan Finks
This talk of extended cranking sessions has me wondering about
something that I have wondered about before:

Is the oil pump able to sufficiently lube the whole engine during
these cranking sessions?

Brian

someone wrote:

I now (after a LONG cranking session once before) loosen the injector
lines at the injectors, have someone else crank while I watch, and
tighten the lines as they start to leak fuel - it re-fills the lines
MUCH faster than just cranking --

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima

2007-09-15 Thread Mitch Haley


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 My girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks
 like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed the  air
 out of the clutch?

If the slave cylinder is external to the tranny, it should be easy to
get at the bleed screw. Might get interesting if the cylinder is inside
the bell housing. If it ran dry, you'll probably be paying for a new
master or slave cylinder soon anyway. The fluid had to leak out somewhere.

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Re: [MBZ] transmission toasted? 1981 300SD

2007-09-15 Thread billr
You are on the same page I am with that.  I ended up getting two bad engines 
[one from a bone yard and one from Potomac (sp?) German] and had to pay a 
mechanic [many miles from home] three times to install them [he did not believe 
you could test compression without a full install].  I felt a tipping point 
there on not using local for the big stuff.  Since this happened at home I have 
my mechanic to rely on and will follow his suggestions - though I'm very happy 
to have Rusty as a backup source.
BillR

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 14, 2007 6:24 PM
To: 'billr' [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List' 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission toasted?  1981  300SD

Yep, I'm in N. Alabama.

I've lost two Mercedes transmissions and although I agree that Rusty carries
quality products, I've always been concerned about ordering major assemblies
like an engine or transmission from him or anyone else. If everything goes
well then there is not an issue but if you have a warranty related failure
then you pay freight both ways for the replacement and you pay your local
mechanic (again) to install the replacement.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of billr
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 10:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission toasted? 1981 300SD

That is not too bad. I was thinking I had been seeing them for $2,800. I
just hope Jax is as reasonable as N. Alabama [that is where you are, right?]

BillR

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 14, 2007 10:53 AM
To: 'billr' [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List'
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] transmission toasted?  1981  300SD

Do a total rebuild - around here the cost is about $1,700.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of billr
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:02 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] transmission toasted? 1981 300SD

Final checks are being done at the moment by my mechanic, but initial
indications are that my transmission may be shot.  It has been giving some
problems for a few months, most notably on my recent trip to VA it quit
shifting into 4th, then wouldn't go into 3rd.  Checked all vacuum
connections but found nothing, then was fine from SC to VA and back to SC
then home to Jax.  Mostly it has just exhibited a slight flare from 2 - 3,
getting a bit worse over the last couple of weeks.  Last night I stopped in
to get a bottle of Techron concentrate and when I tried to leave the
parking
lot nothing would engage at all.  Mechanic reattached the linkage this
morning, but it still will not go into gear. Thoughts on this problem;
Thoughts on rebuild vs. finding a used one if this one is gone? 
Thanks in advance - BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  295k miles

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond

I figured Craig's number was an oversimplification so I figured I'd try an 
estimate.
We use ~300KW/month during the height of summer. Lets use 30 days for a month, 
thats ~10KW a day.
Based on that I'd say a 10Kw generator would be plenty for us.
Well really I could even say we could use far less because we surely don't 
create all 10KW at one time but giving extra capacity means we wouldn't 
overload with high demand.

Of course I realize that we probably use alot less electricity than some folks. 
Check your electric bill for how much you use...

Oh, and I bet for most folks Craig is right, as I say I'd bet we use alot less 
power than the average consumer.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 13:46:08 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:35:13 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin, work
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 so what size would a person need that would run everything at the
 same
 time  like regular line power?  If I ever got one I would want it
 hooked
 into the  house power with a switch or whatever to connect or
 disconnect
 it.  What  would be really great would be something that
 automatically
 kicks in if the  power goes out.  I bet something like that would be
 expensive though.

Something on the order of 20 - 30 kW.


Craig

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond

Again the beauty of regional differences.
Here in MA I'm not so much worried about hurricanes knocking out power as I am 
snowstorms.
In the event of a snowstorm taking out power keeping the food from spoiling 
isn't as big a worry as keeping warm and the woodstove is the prime device for 
that.
The camp stove will cook well enough for us to get by. Town water is pretty 
reliable here (never had it go off in the year we've been here or the 7 years 
we lived in the next town over.
Cold stuff stays cold by bringing snow inside or putting water bottles out to 
freeze and then bringing them in. We've got a porch thats not heated so food 
can go out there too.

I was thinking for awhile that folks in FL would need a sump pump to run too 
but then I remembered how few basements there are down there.

Here in the summer a fan would be nice but not required. The fridge will warm 
up sure but as you say that'll take a few days. I keep ice bottles in the 
fridge to make it more efficient anyway which should help in the event of an 
outage.

Everybody's needs are different...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 00:04:30 -0400
From: Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Having been through a few hurricanes in FL, the important things are
 (1)
well pump ... if you are on a well, (1a) lift station if you have one
 (2)
refrigeration so your food doesn't spoil although it's good for 2-3
 days if
you don't open the door, (3) a light or two to dress, bath, etc, (4) a
 fan
if it's summer, and (5) computer (if the phone still works) so you can
communicate with friends and family.  

I don't think solar and an inverter is up to doing the job.

Scott Ritchey

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 We use ~300KW/month during the height of summer. Lets use 30 days for 
 a month, thats ~10KW a day.
 Based on that I'd say a 10Kw generator would be plenty for us.

You have a units problem.  What you buy from the power company
is kilowatt-HOURS.  What you buy from the store is kilowatt capacity.
That is, your typical generattle can pump out 5-6kWH in an hour.
But what you usually have to purchase in generating capacity is
the ability to handle your peak load, whatever that is.  If your
math above was accurate, you would only need to purchase a 10k/24
or 400 Watt generator in order to supply your monthly needs.
It would run at max capacity 24/7.

If you were running a household like a hybrid car, with a battery
(or other) system to level the load, that 400W generator _would_
do it, ignoring inefficiencies.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
Your Kohler is a 45R, which is a 45kW inherently
regulated model.  No voltage regulator - the windings
are designed to do all the dirty work.  It does, in
fact, crank from a special winding within the
exciter,but in order to do this, it has to have a
series-parallel battery setup to provide adequate
current to the exciter cranking windings.

The Hercules (later known as White-Hercules) engine on
this model is built like a brick doghouse, and would
be comparable as far as reliability to a 617 diesel. 
Hercules engines were used for many years in the
industrial field, as well as in Jeeps during WWII.

Despite having electric heat, that unit should have no
problem taking on your whole house as a load.

Why there would have been a bendix starter on it I
have no idea.  Since it was a GSA unit, there is a
remote possibility that it was added on as an option,
which would be noted by the option codes on the
nameplate.

Now all you need is an automatic transfer switch...

Dan (former Kohler guy)





--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 OK, so I bought it today.  $390.  (Picked up a big
 swamp
 cooler too, $230.)  I made a web page for it:
 
 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset3.html
 
 I won't be able to do much with it for awhile.  But
 you
 get while the getting is good.  If you want to save
 money.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Your Kohler is a 45R, which is a 45kW inherently
 regulated model.  No voltage regulator - the windings
 are designed to do all the dirty work.  It does, in

It does have a voltage regulator, a Regohm unit.
There is an option for a bypass switch, so you may
be right about its ability to run without a regulator
with just a rheostat, though this unit has the regulator.
Getting information about this generator has so far
proven nearly impossible.  The tattered schematic inside
the lid is just about all there is.  All Kohler could do
was fax me a worse copy than I already had.

 fact, crank from a special winding within the
 exciter,but in order to do this, it has to have a
 series-parallel battery setup to provide adequate
 current to the exciter cranking windings.

It's a straight 24V battery bank.  It draws some
300A to crank over, pretty much like the usual
reduction starter (such as the mystery Lucas/Bendix
starter that was sitting on top of it) except for
the 2x voltage.  I think the system is pretty slick.
Very smooth and quiet, the motor just starts turning
without any grinding, whining, etc.  Thub-thub-thub...

 The Hercules (later known as White-Hercules) engine on
 this model is built like a brick doghouse, and would
 be comparable as far as reliability to a 617 diesel.
 Hercules engines were used for many years in the
 industrial field, as well as in Jeeps during WWII.

It impressed me with its stoutness.  And surely is a
heavy beast!  Didn't seem to be able to withstand
frozen water in the block, or rain down its neck.
Imagine that!

 Despite having electric heat, that unit should have no
 problem taking on your whole house as a load.

Yes, it's the application that is the problem.  The
Kohler is 3-phase, the house is not.  The resistance
banks (5?) in the furnace could be rewired to delta,
and at 208 volts it wouldn't draw the full rating
so the entire house could probably run on it.  (That
is, everything lit at once.)  But getting it _wired_
to run on 3-phase would be a major problem.  Right
now I just have it wired zig-zag with your basic
back-feed 50A dryer cable.  A long ways from the 200A
equivalent service it could provide.

And we don't have propane here, so fueling it is an
issue at the moment.  I've not run it for very long
yet, it looks _hungry_ and all I have is 5- and
10-gallon bottles.

 Why there would have been a bendix starter on it I
 have no idea.  Since it was a GSA unit, there is a
 remote possibility that it was added on as an option,
 which would be noted by the option codes on the
 nameplate.

No, somebody used the genny as a handy table and forgot
that the starter didn't belong there.  There are no teeth
on the flywheel!

 Now all you need is an automatic transfer switch...

I bought a pallet-load of old ones, also from GSA.  One
400A one is interesting, same vintage as the genny and
also built like a brick.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
The easiest  most efficient way to convert three phase to single phase is
through a motor / generator set. Now, finding one is another issue.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 8:37 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

 Your Kohler is a 45R, which is a 45kW inherently
 regulated model.  No voltage regulator - the windings
 are designed to do all the dirty work.  It does, in

It does have a voltage regulator, a Regohm unit.
There is an option for a bypass switch, so you may
be right about its ability to run without a regulator
with just a rheostat, though this unit has the regulator.
Getting information about this generator has so far
proven nearly impossible.  The tattered schematic inside
the lid is just about all there is.  All Kohler could do
was fax me a worse copy than I already had.

 fact, crank from a special winding within the
 exciter,but in order to do this, it has to have a
 series-parallel battery setup to provide adequate
 current to the exciter cranking windings.

It's a straight 24V battery bank.  It draws some
300A to crank over, pretty much like the usual
reduction starter (such as the mystery Lucas/Bendix
starter that was sitting on top of it) except for
the 2x voltage.  I think the system is pretty slick.
Very smooth and quiet, the motor just starts turning
without any grinding, whining, etc.  Thub-thub-thub...

 The Hercules (later known as White-Hercules) engine on
 this model is built like a brick doghouse, and would
 be comparable as far as reliability to a 617 diesel.
 Hercules engines were used for many years in the
 industrial field, as well as in Jeeps during WWII.

It impressed me with its stoutness.  And surely is a
heavy beast!  Didn't seem to be able to withstand
frozen water in the block, or rain down its neck.
Imagine that!

 Despite having electric heat, that unit should have no
 problem taking on your whole house as a load.

Yes, it's the application that is the problem.  The
Kohler is 3-phase, the house is not.  The resistance
banks (5?) in the furnace could be rewired to delta,
and at 208 volts it wouldn't draw the full rating
so the entire house could probably run on it.  (That
is, everything lit at once.)  But getting it _wired_
to run on 3-phase would be a major problem.  Right
now I just have it wired zig-zag with your basic
back-feed 50A dryer cable.  A long ways from the 200A
equivalent service it could provide.

And we don't have propane here, so fueling it is an
issue at the moment.  I've not run it for very long
yet, it looks _hungry_ and all I have is 5- and
10-gallon bottles.

 Why there would have been a bendix starter on it I
 have no idea.  Since it was a GSA unit, there is a
 remote possibility that it was added on as an option,
 which would be noted by the option codes on the
 nameplate.

No, somebody used the genny as a handy table and forgot
that the starter didn't belong there.  There are no teeth
on the flywheel!

 Now all you need is an automatic transfer switch...

I bought a pallet-load of old ones, also from GSA.  One
400A one is interesting, same vintage as the genny and
also built like a brick.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] How to identify a tranny model

2007-09-15 Thread rw123


Does anyone know whether a part number identifying an MB tranny as 722.xxx is 
actually stamped on the transmission. If not, how does one identify what type 
of transmission one has. Do I have to cross reference other part numbers from 
the housing, etc. I've been hunting the salvage yards and I'm sure most don't 
really have a clue what specific tranny they have other than what car it came 
from. I'd like to be sure before I drive a long distance to pick one up.  TIA

Ralph Wasserbaech

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Re: [MBZ] Cranking sessions - was primer pump on 190D

2007-09-15 Thread Peter Frederick
It's adequate when the engine is running isn't it?  You get full 
pressure (3 bar) pretty quickly unless the oil pump is badly worn or 
the bearings are bad.

The only time I would NOT crank for extended periods is when the engine 
is assembled dry -- this is what assembly lube are pre-oiling pumps are 
for.

Peter


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[MBZ] 82 SD For sale Calling Dan Weeks

2007-09-15 Thread Dan Weeks
Thanks, Loren, and others who commented. It was sold when I called,  
the night I got the email.

Dan



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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread John Robbins
Curt Raymond wrote:
 We use ~300KW/month during the height of summer.

I guess you don't have A/C?  I used almost 2400kWH last month.  Thats 
the highest I've ever used though... It should go down when the central 
is working and I'm not using a 20+ year old wall unit (huge wall unit, 
cools the whole house almost).

Thats also with gas stove, oven, water heater, and dryer.

John

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Re: [MBZ] How to identify a tranny model

2007-09-15 Thread tom savage
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Does anyone know whether a part number identifying an MB tranny as 722.xxx is 
 actually stamped on the transmission. If not, how does one identify what type 
 of transmission one has. Do I have to cross reference other part numbers from 
 the housing, etc. I've been hunting the salvage yards and I'm sure most don't 
 really have a clue what specific tranny they have other than what car it came 
 from. I'd like to be sure before I drive a long distance to pick one up.  TIA

The full transmission number is stamped on the bottom of the passenger 
side of the case, just above the pan.  There's also an application guide 
at http://peterschmid.com/ under Application Guide.  Also, the EPC 
datacard and http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng will usually tell you 
the full tranny number for a particular VIN so you can tell if it has 
been replaced (but not rebuilt.)

Tom

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Re: [MBZ] Trans Fluid

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
the 116 does as well.

Marshall Booth wrote:
 Dan Weeks wrote:
 The single biggest factor in premature trans failure, besides overt  
 abuse, is heat. WHen I used to tow, I installed a trans temp gauge in  
 my tow cars. Ran fairly flimsey automatics (700R4) hundreds of  
 thousands of miles without failures. Just made sure the trans was  
 running cool. I'd like to plumb one into my 300SD sometime, just for  
 kicks.
 
 Your 300SD (if it's a 126) should already have a transmission fluid 
 cooler! Not sure about a 116 SD.
 
 Marshall

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] My latest score

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I didnt think you liked 140's.  Did you sell one that was your parents 
or something?  So tell about the new one you bought?  Also tell about 
this old beat up 95?  They getting rid of it?

The 140 did change quite a bit.  Some things for the better, some not. 
The earlier ones had more features, but also had potential wiring 
harness issues and such, as well as the evaporator etc.  The later ones 
they seem to be stripped down somewhat with less features, and things 
that were standard on the earlier ones, are optional on the later ones. 
  By then they had wiring issue solved.  Not sure about the evaporator 
thing or not.  Did that ever get solved in the 140?

tom savage wrote:
 I just bought a 140 also.  Sweet one-owner '98 S420, as clean as you 
 could imagine.  A local dealer actually had it on the lot.  Previous 
 owner lived in the old-money part of town and (I swear I'm not making 
 this up) his first name is Adolph.  Used Mercedes provenance doesn't get 
 much better than that.  Might need a new thermostat, though.
 
 Not a stick, but after every other-marque three-pedal test drive I got 
 back in the beat-up, bad-evaporator '95 S320 company car and thought 
 ah.  The realization that in January a year-long interstate 
 closure is going to make my commute a living hell helped in the decision 
 as well.
 
 I hadn't realized before just how much the 140 changed over its 
 production run.  A '97-'99 is an almost completely different car than a 
 '92-'93; think 450SL vs 560SL.
 
 Tom
 '82 300D
 '96 Passat TDI (dead)
 '98 S420
 
 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 So I today I buy a 92 300SD from the Mercedes dealer in Wichita.  I got 
 them down 2k off there already VERY cheap price.  137k miles.  Damn 
 thing is near perfect.  They dont mess with those old cars like that. I 
 am surprised they didnt just run it thru the auction right off the bat. 
 Geez, I have been missing the 140.  It makes the 126 look like a POS 
 FROD or something.  When I got it home and was digging thru it, what do 
 I find in the rear seat pocket but a BRAND NEW Ipod Nano.  I mean BRAND 
 NEW.  Never been opened.  Holy crap!!  I dont care anything about Ipods 
 but the wife does.
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Trans compatibility

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
no, the 82 trans will not work.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello All,
 I'm having further bad luck with my fleet. I think the trans in my '87 300TD 
 is finally toast. It's been on its way with lots of flaring but still got the 
 job done. Now it will hardly shift into third and not into fourth at all. 
 Fluid level is fine. I assume that bad vacuum wouldn't cause this. My real 
 question is how compatible are various MB trannies. The tranny in this car is 
 a 722.317. Is there any chance that a transmission (722.315) from an '82 
 300TD would work in this car? I've got two of these in my shed.
 
 Ralph Wasserbaech
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] How to identify a tranny model

2007-09-15 Thread rw123

r 
 side of the case, just above the pan.  There's also an application guide 
 at http://peterschmid.com/ under Application Guide.  Also, the EPC 
 datacard and http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng will usually tell you 
 the full tranny number for a particular VIN so you can tell if it has 
 been replaced (but not rebuilt.)

Thanks Tom. The VIN decoder is really cool. Lists every detail and option on my 
car.

Ralph Wasserbaech
'87 300TD
'01 E320 wagon
'90 300D
'83 300CD

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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Bigham
Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:13:21 -0400
Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted
 
I love the term Factory Rebuilt.
 
In East Hartford, CT there was a dealer who rebuilt flathead fords in
the 50's. They were advertised, stamped and invoiced as Factory
Rebuilt. Because Ford wanted the royalty!

_

Ford has offered rebuilt major assemblies since at least Model A days.

For a long time, Ford did something like franchise the rebuilding of, 
particularly, flathead engines.  They required certain standards in the 
work.  

The rebuillt engines had a sticker saying Authorized Ford Rebuilt 
or Ford Authorized Rebuilt, one of those, on the heads.  

There was no representation the rebuilt engines were sent back 
to Dearborn or wherever.  They were rebuilt in a shop, just as 
they are rebuilt now.  What Ford was offering was a set of 
standards and predictable quality of the finished engine. 

I hate to have to tell you, but there used to be a lot of jackleg
mechanics who often did bad work.  The Authorized Ford 
Rebuilt program offered a way to avoid that.

Many Ford engines now are good for one rebuild - if the time 
arrives for a second rebuild, the castings may be too thin for 
resizing a second time.  


 




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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well since we already have natural gas, I would think natural gas would 
be the way to go although i think I would prefer a diesel, since I just 
love diesels.

Scott Ritchey wrote:
 The standard residential service entrance is 200amp, 220 volt or 44KW.  But
 you can get by with much less.  
 
 I have a 15KW unit (220v 65 amp) that runs everything except the two heat
 pumps and it would run those too except for the emergency heat strips.  
 
 You also need to consider fuel.  LP (and natural gas) is good forever and
 you can get large tanks (mine is 500gal underground).  But long term storage
 of Diesel or gas is problematic and getting fuel is also a problem if power
 outages are widespread.  Also, a big generator will use significantly more
 fuel than a small one for the same small load.
 
 Generac (aka Centurion and Guardian) and Briggs and Stratton sell packages
 with automatic switchover gear which are cost competitive.  Kohler is more
 expensive as I recall.  Those packages are designed to power a limited
 number (8-12) of circuits where each circuit is wired to the switchover box.
 In an existing installation, this means lots of splices in the existing
 power panel.  You can also get a 100 amp switchover box that powers a whole
 subpanel for about the same price.  
 
 If you go with a manual setup, you can turn off the breakers to big
 unnecessary loads (like a water heater) or not use them (like a dryer),
 disconnect from commercial power (preferably a break-before-make transfer
 switch) and apply generator power.  This is the cheapest solution but it
 requires you to be there to set it up.
 
 I chose an automatic Generac system mainly in case I was out of town ... my
 wife is NOT mechanically inclined.  If the power is out for about 15
 seconds, it fires up the engine and switches the load to the generator after
 about a minute (for warm up).  Later, it switches back to commercial power
 after the power comes back solid for a couple minutes.  There have been
 cases when we did not know the power was out until we went outside and heard
 the generator.
 
 Personally, I think 5KW would be fine for a cabin or as a manual emergency
 power source but you probably want 10-15KW to run the whole house.  And even
 then, don't run big loads like a dryer or electric heat.  Also, for an
 automatic standby generator, I think LP or natural gas is the only way to
 go.  If you have gas, you can also use it for heating (fire place, water
 heater, stove, etc.) so you won't have many really big electric loads.
 Finally, I think a 20-40KW generator is overkill and those are MUCH more
 expensive (although quieter because they are often water cooled and run at
 lower RPM) than the smaller units.
 
 Of course if you already have a big gas or diesel storage tank that you use
 regularly, you have other good options.
 
 Anyway, that's my experience and opinion.
 
 Scott Ritchey
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, work
 Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 3:35 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
 
 so what size would a person need that would run everything at the same time 
 like regular line power?  If I ever got one I would want it hooked into the 
 house power with a switch or whatever to connect or disconnect it.  What 
 would be really great would be something that automatically kicks in if the 
 power goes out.  I bet something like that would be expensive though.
 
 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:22 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
 
 
 During power outages, plan to use a camping stove or the BBQ and maybe the
 
 microwave. Don't wash the clothes etc.
 The generator will run the lights, the furnace fan, the refrigerator etc 
 but probably not all at once. Be prepared
 to shift things around a bit. If you don't have outages often or for long,
 
 extension cords etc are probably
 sufficient. If it happens all the time and for longer than a few hours, 
 then you will find it more comfortable if
 you have something bigger and more permanent. There is a nice writeup on a
 
 web site by a fellow in Florida who has
 to contend with hurricanes. He has a setup with one of the Lister style 
 diesel engines and a big genrator head. He
 has written a good description of how and why he has done what he has and 
 some tips on how to adjust the thing etc.
 I don't have the url here but it is on the computer at home and could be 
 obtained if anyone is interested.

 Randy
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Trans Fluid

2007-09-15 Thread Peter Frederick
The factory ones in the radiator are not adequate for heavy duty use -- 
if you are going to pull a trailer of any size, carry full loads for 
long distances, etc, install an additional transmission cooler -- it 
will indeed keep the tranny working.

Peter


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[MBZ] Brake pads: Brain picking

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Bigham
Hello smart people whoever you are

I'd like to pick your brains about brake pads.

One point of view is that of Daimler Benz AG:  
Don't use anything except what we say.  For 
me that means Jurid this or Textar that.

Another says metallic only.  Accept no substitutes.
I've had metallic pads that seemed to last forever 
with no problems.

Another says ceramic only.  Much better.

Some of the metallic or ceramic, I forget which, are 
supposed to last forever, but wear out everything 
else (rotors?).  Or so I think I've read or heard.

I'm thinking of a situation wherein there are new or 
refinished rotors without vent holes, and reused 
sound calipers.  Probabably new small hardware.

What do you think?  All points of view accepted.

Thanks   Robert  
 




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Re: [MBZ] How to identify a tranny model

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Its on a little flat spot i believe right above the pan on the front 
passenger side front

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Does anyone know whether a part number identifying an MB tranny as 722.xxx is 
 actually stamped on the transmission. If not, how does one identify what type 
 of transmission one has. Do I have to cross reference other part numbers from 
 the housing, etc. I've been hunting the salvage yards and I'm sure most don't 
 really have a clue what specific tranny they have other than what car it came 
 from. I'd like to be sure before I drive a long distance to pick one up.  TIA
 
 Ralph Wasserbaech
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning CIS injectors

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Bigham

Hello pro and anti injector cleaners.

In the interest of beating a possibly dead horse, I offer this 
which I learned by Googling.  Some may be interested.

I found a mail them in service that cleans and repairs all kinds
of modern electrically operated gasoline injectors, no diesel, 
and they certaninly talk a good game.  WitchHunter 
Performance in Bothell WA. www.witchhunter.com.  
Beautiful website.

Here's what they had to say about cleaning CIS injectors:

Robert,
 
We now just test but not clean the CIS injectors since they 
don't clean well due to their design. The internal filter can't 
be replaced and their one-way flow design won't allow 
back-flushing the debris out of them.

No parts are included with our $8 each testing only service.

[I thought I read they furnished new seals at $8/injector 
testing, which sounded too good to be true, and asked 
for clarification.] 
 
Gordon
WitchHunter Performance / InjectorServices
206-919-0794

At $8 to have a reason to say I know whether an injector is 
good or junk,  I'm in.

FULL DISCLOSURE: Also charges $8 per job to send the
injectors back by Priority Mail, US addrresses only.  Plus of 
course it costs about the same to send the injectors to him. 

It seems now that if there is varnish that can be dissolved, then 
you or I can clean them.  Maybe a pour it in the fuel tank 
cleaner by itself is OK.  If there is rust, junk, or gritters in the 
internal screen, we are largely out of luck.  Seems to make 
sense to me.

FWIW.  Aloha.  




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Re: [MBZ] Brake pads: Brain picking

2007-09-15 Thread Peter Frederick
The ventilated disks are required -- otherwise the rotor cannot 
dissipate heat fast enough and braking efficiency drops (meaning you 
stop less quickly).  They also save weight.

Brake pads are always a compromise -- you have to trade off stopping 
power with wear of pads and wear of brake rotors, cold stopping power 
(what you need on the road, as you are not using them much, if at all) 
vs hot stopping power (racing, where you stand on them every 30 seconds 
or so).

The OEM pads are a very good compromise for normal driving.  You loose 
some pad life in exchange for excellent stopping ability with cold 
brakes while keeping rotor wear within reasonable limits (every third 
set of pads, more or less).  Racing pads (most ceramics, full 
metallics, etc) have fairly poor cold stopping power -- you have to 
STAND on the pedal until they heat up.  This is scary -- when that kid 
zips down a blind driveway onto the street, you don't what to have to 
explain to his parents that you needed to warm up the brakes to avoid 
squashing him

I get upwards of 30,000 miles out of a set of pads, maybe more.  I've 
put two sets on the 300D in 110,000 miles so far, and no signs that the 
last one is bad yet, although I'm expecting them to wear out soon.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

2007-09-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
There are still lot of jackleg mechanics who often do bad work.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 10:07 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:13:21 -0400
Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted
 
I love the term Factory Rebuilt.
 
In East Hartford, CT there was a dealer who rebuilt flathead fords in
the 50's. They were advertised, stamped and invoiced as Factory
Rebuilt. Because Ford wanted the royalty!

_

Ford has offered rebuilt major assemblies since at least Model A days.

For a long time, Ford did something like franchise the rebuilding of, 
particularly, flathead engines.  They required certain standards in the 
work.  

The rebuillt engines had a sticker saying Authorized Ford Rebuilt 
or Ford Authorized Rebuilt, one of those, on the heads.  

There was no representation the rebuilt engines were sent back 
to Dearborn or wherever.  They were rebuilt in a shop, just as 
they are rebuilt now.  What Ford was offering was a set of 
standards and predictable quality of the finished engine. 

I hate to have to tell you, but there used to be a lot of jackleg
mechanics who often did bad work.  The Authorized Ford 
Rebuilt program offered a way to avoid that.

Many Ford engines now are good for one rebuild - if the time 
arrives for a second rebuild, the castings may be too thin for 
resizing a second time.  


 




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Re: [MBZ] Brake pads: Brain picking

2007-09-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
I used to believe that brake pads were a compromise but that's no longer
true with newer ceramic pads. Today, you can buy pads that last a long time,
create little dust and do an excellent job stopping the car. Just don't run
down to your favorite discount auto parts store  ask for ceramic pads.
They've all learned that ceramic pads have become popular and they have
added their own lines, but with no claims to anything special other than
they are superior.

Order your ceramic pads from Rusty.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 10:43 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake pads: Brain picking

The ventilated disks are required -- otherwise the rotor cannot 
dissipate heat fast enough and braking efficiency drops (meaning you 
stop less quickly).  They also save weight.

Brake pads are always a compromise -- you have to trade off stopping 
power with wear of pads and wear of brake rotors, cold stopping power 
(what you need on the road, as you are not using them much, if at all) 
vs hot stopping power (racing, where you stand on them every 30 seconds 
or so).

The OEM pads are a very good compromise for normal driving.  You loose 
some pad life in exchange for excellent stopping ability with cold 
brakes while keeping rotor wear within reasonable limits (every third 
set of pads, more or less).  Racing pads (most ceramics, full 
metallics, etc) have fairly poor cold stopping power -- you have to 
STAND on the pedal until they heat up.  This is scary -- when that kid 
zips down a blind driveway onto the street, you don't what to have to 
explain to his parents that you needed to warm up the brakes to avoid 
squashing him

I get upwards of 30,000 miles out of a set of pads, maybe more.  I've 
put two sets on the 300D in 110,000 miles so far, and no signs that the 
last one is bad yet, although I'm expecting them to wear out soon.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Brake pads: Brain picking

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 I'd like to pick your brains about brake pads.

I think pads are a _lot_ easier to replace than rotors.
I do not want rock-hard 'forever' pads that wear the rotors
excessively, nor do I want squeaks.  The OEM pads work
well for me.  The hardest part about changing pads on
these cars is jacking up the car and taking off the wheel.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Bigham

OMG!  And I thought I was the only one who knew!  

Once I had a worn out timing set on a 302 Ford engine replaced at 
the local Ford dealer's shop. Chain had climbed the sprocket. $$$

Not many miles later, I pulled the oil drinking engine for rebuild.  302 
Ford timing sprockets slip on the crank and cam with chain on both 
sprockets when slipped on.  Kind of a Chinese puzzle.

This one had been hammered on the cam, and some of the nylon teeth 
on the cam sprocket were cracked, and others were broken off.  It 
had worked fine with teeth broken off.

I took the set back to the dealer with my invoice for parts and labor, 
and I got a new timing set free.

One reason to do one's own work is to avoid crap like that.  I am 
fortunate to have an independent foreign car mechanic who I do not 
believe would ever do CLT.  

The bad news is that some of his (semi transient) help will do CLT 
and worse.  That is another story for another time, titled  The great 
water pump change fiasco.  Soon to be in paperback in stores near 
you.

 [Original Message]
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: 9/15/2007 10:46:53 AM
 Subject: RE: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

 There are still lot of jackleg mechanics who often do bad work.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
  

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
 Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 10:07 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

 Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:13:21 -0400
 Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted
  
 I love the term Factory Rebuilt.
  
 In East Hartford, CT there was a dealer who rebuilt flathead fords in
 the 50's. They were advertised, stamped and invoiced as Factory
 Rebuilt. Because Ford wanted the royalty!

 _

 Ford has offered rebuilt major assemblies since at least Model A days.

 For a long time, Ford did something like franchise the rebuilding of, 
 particularly, flathead engines.  They required certain standards in the 
 work.  

 The rebuillt engines had a sticker saying Authorized Ford Rebuilt 
 or Ford Authorized Rebuilt, one of those, on the heads.  

 There was no representation the rebuilt engines were sent back 
 to Dearborn or wherever.  They were rebuilt in a shop, just as 
 they are rebuilt now.  What Ford was offering was a set of 
 standards and predictable quality of the finished engine. 

 I hate to have to tell you, but there used to be a lot of jackleg
 mechanics who often did bad work.  The Authorized Ford 
 Rebuilt program offered a way to avoid that.

 Many Ford engines now are good for one rebuild - if the time 
 arrives for a second rebuild, the castings may be too thin for 
 resizing a second time.  




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Re: [MBZ] How to identify a tranny model

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
On later models like 123 and later it is.  I seem to
recall earlier models like 108s and 114s having it
stamped in the right rear corner of the housing, just
above the pan...

Dan


--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Its on a little flat spot i believe right above the
 pan on the front 
 passenger side front



  

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 05:50:42 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  We use ~300KW/month during the height of summer. Lets use 30 days for 
  a month, thats ~10KW a day.
  Based on that I'd say a 10Kw generator would be plenty for us.
 
 You have a units problem.  What you buy from the power company
 is kilowatt-HOURS.  What you buy from the store is kilowatt capacity.

Exactly.

What you get from a generator is power, the rate of doing work:

1 horsepower = 550 ft-lbs/sec
1 kilowatt   = 1.34 horsepower

What you buy from the power company is energy, the amount of work done:

1 kilowatt-hour = 2,655,224 ft-lb
= 3412 BTU = 3.6 x 10^6 joules

The relationship is:

Energy = Power * Time



 But what you usually have to purchase in generating capacity is
 the ability to handle your peak load, whatever that is.

The peak load is indeed the problem.


 Again the beauty of regional differences.
 Here in MA I'm not so much worried about hurricanes knocking out power
 as I am snowstorms.

Curt's situation requires less electrical power than someone in Florida.
Since he is willing to modify his lifestyle to accomodate electrical power
interruptions, he can get by with a lot lower power generator.

When we lived in rural Colorado, for several years we were hauling water
in 5 gallon containers, had propane heat and a propane refrigerator. The
Honda EM500 generator we used was more than adequate to power lights and
a stereo system. We had a car radio and two 6 volt lead-acid batteries
to listen to during the day when we wanted to not run the generator. When
we got our 4 kW propane-fired genset running, we were able to run the well
pump to fill the water system's pressure tank and then shut the generator
down and still have 25 gallons of pressurized water available.

From the sounds of Curt's situation, a 500 W generator might be all he
needs. If he wants to run a washing machine, 4 kW should be enough.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
There are two concerns with natural gas:

1.) Natural gas will have the lowest BTU content of
any fuel (LP, gasoline, natural gas.)  As a result,
you won't get the nameplate ratings out of the genset
(engine) unless it's already rated for natural gas at
the given kW rating.

2.) In the event of an emergency, there is a remote
possibility that natural gas might not be available. 
This is why standby gensets at critical sites are not
allowed to use natural gas as the only fuel - they
must have dual fuel automatic changeover systems,
using natural and LP, so that if one fails it will
change over automatically to the other fuel.

It's highly unlikely that you will ever lose natural
gas service, but it's something to consider.  Given
the choice, I would go with LP because it's easy to
store in fairly large volumes and you get more output
with it, too.

Also, using a dry fuel like natural gas or LP
increases the longevity of the engine, and reduces the
maintenance intervals, too.  If you use diesel, you've
got to have a source, a tank, piping, etc., not to
mention having to worry about fuel stability.

Dan

--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Well since we already have natural gas, I would
 think natural gas would 
 be the way to go although i think I would prefer a
 diesel, since I just 
 love diesels.
 



   

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
Just google rotary phase converter - they're all
over the place.  A poor man's way to get 3 phase to
single phase for years.

Dan






--- Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The easiest  most efficient way to convert three
 phase to single phase is
 through a motor / generator set. Now, finding one is
 another issue.
 
 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
  



  

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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 11:01:55 -0500 Robert Bigham
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The bad news is that some of his (semi transient) help will do CLT 
 and worse.  That is another story for another time, titled  The great 
 water pump change fiasco.  Soon to be in paperback in stores near 
 you.

CLT?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
I did  the ones I found converted single phase to three phase.

Tom
www.kegkits.com

 
Original Message
From: LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 09/15/07 11:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Just google rotary phase converter - they're all
over the place.  A poor man's way to get 3 phase to
single phase for years.

Dan






--- Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The easiest  most efficient way to convert three
 phase to single phase is
 through a motor / generator set. Now, finding one is
 another issue.
 
 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
  



 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250

--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 It does have a voltage regulator, a Regohm unit.
 There is an option for a bypass switch, so you may
 be right about its ability to run without a
 regulator
 with just a rheostat, though this unit has the
 regulator.
 Getting information about this generator has so far
 proven nearly impossible.  The tattered schematic
 inside
 the lid is just about all there is.  All Kohler
 could do
 was fax me a worse copy than I already had.

Heh.  RegOhm regulator - now I see it.  Better hope
nothing ever happens to it - they are NLA and have
been for years.  There was some guy who was rebuilding
them when I first started at Kohler in the late 80s,
but I have no idea if he's still around.

And what you got was an archive copy, which probably
looks as bad as the one you got.  They had a big
project years ago to microfilm all the drawings, which
ended up filling literally 20 thick binders.  I used
to have a full set of these - I just recently sent
them to a former business partner who is still in the
generator business.

 It's a straight 24V battery bank.  It draws some
 300A to crank over, pretty much like the usual
 reduction starter (such as the mystery Lucas/Bendix
 starter that was sitting on top of it) except for
 the 2x voltage.  I think the system is pretty slick.
 Very smooth and quiet, the motor just starts turning
 without any grinding, whining, etc. 
 Thub-thub-thub...

Yes, exciter cranked units are pretty cool.  I used to
love working on them, as they are really simple
despite the looks of the diagrams.

 It impressed me with its stoutness.  And surely is a
 heavy beast!  Didn't seem to be able to withstand
 frozen water in the block, or rain down its neck.
 Imagine that!

What engine would?  Hercules engines have been in the
industrial world for a long time, and are virtually
indestructible.  Parts are expensive, but when you
factor the longevity, they're cheap.

 Yes, it's the application that is the problem.  The
 Kohler is 3-phase, the house is not.  The resistance
 banks (5?) in the furnace could be rewired to delta,
 and at 208 volts it wouldn't draw the full rating
 so the entire house could probably run on it.  (That
 is, everything lit at once.)  But getting it _wired_
 to run on 3-phase would be a major problem.  Right
 now I just have it wired zig-zag with your basic
 back-feed 50A dryer cable.  A long ways from the
 200A
 equivalent service it could provide.

E-mail me the link with the drawing again - you may be
able to reconnect it - I can check.
 
 And we don't have propane here, so fueling it is an
 issue at the moment.  I've not run it for very long
 yet, it looks _hungry_ and all I have is 5- and
 10-gallon bottles.

Consumption probably isn't as bad as you suspect. 
I'll check some numbers when I get a chance.

 I bought a pallet-load of old ones, also from GSA. 
 One
 400A one is interesting, same vintage as the genny
 and
 also built like a brick.

Are they circuit breakers or contactors?  Either way,
they are probably Westinghouse ATS' brand labeled for
Kohler.  Pretty beefy and simple to work on as well.

Dan



   

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
First I checked the oil.  It had some.  Next I checked the battery, it
was dead and drew no charging current.  I went and got a car battery
and a set of jumper cables and hooked it up.  The key then worked, but
the engine only turned over a few times before it 'stalled'.  I pulled
the end cover off the housing and spun the motor back so the starter
could get a 'run' at it, then it turned over again.  It cranked a lot
but no fire.  There wasn't much fuel in the tank.  I poured in the 2
gallons I had in a can and cranked again.  (Sometimes I had to roll
the motor backwards again.)  Eventually it started firing
intermittently, and with more cranking and running attempts it finally
got up 'on plane' and ran.  Not all that noisy, even with the covers
off.

Once it had run a few times it started easily with the key.  I'm sure
being warm helped, as did getting all the air purged from the fuel
system.  The set takes a long time to spin down when turned off.
There's a spring-loaded red lever behind the access hatch that applies
throttle.  If you hit the release lever it drops to, or below, idle
and stops.  There is also a red lever on top that I don't know the
purpose of.  It can only be accessed with the box's end cover taken
off.

There is no voltage output, either AC or DC.  I checked the wiring and
such inside the cabinet, and there were no obvious faults or burned
items.  The regulator is potted, so that's not very handy.  There is
an exposed power diode bridge, but it checks out OK.  There are no
specs or schematics that I can find, I'm not sure where to look next.
There's an odd heat-sinked box separate from the regulator that hooks
to a pair of green wires that come out of the flywheel area.  It has
an inline fuse hooked to it, which I checked.  Also good.  There are a
lot of wires.

It's a mystery.  Perhaps I've just purchased a one-lunged diesel motor
for $400?  Still not a bad deal!

When I took the big battery off I found that the little one was now
taking a charge.  We'll see if it recovers enough to be usable.  It,
not fully charged, wasn't (yet) able to fight the engine's compression
enough to turn over.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Bigham

CLT = crap like that.  

Sorry.  I thought the preceding paragraph where I spelled it 
out would make the meaning of CLT clear.


 [Original Message]
 From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: 9/15/2007 11:35:35 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

 On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 11:01:55 -0500 Robert Bigham
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  The bad news is that some of his (semi transient) help will do CLT 
  and worse.  That is another story for another time, titled  The great 
  water pump change fiasco.  Soon to be in paperback in stores near 
  you.

 CLT?


 Craig




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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Just google rotary phase converter - they're all
 over the place.  A poor man's way to get 3 phase to
 single phase for years.

A poor man will not be buying a 45kW rotary converter!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond

Actually I knew that which is why I used the 10K per day.
In fact your usage isn't linear anyway so 10K/8 is probably a more realistic 
(but still way too low) number. Meaning the bulk of electricity we use is 
probably centered around about 8 hours of the day, say 3 in the morning and 5 
at night.

Never the less for us (see my other posts) I suspect a 10K genny would allow us 
to live life almost without disruption.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 05:50:42 -0700
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 We use ~300KW/month during the height of summer. Lets use 30 days for
 
 a month, thats ~10KW a day.
 Based on that I'd say a 10Kw generator would be plenty for us.

You have a units problem.  What you buy from the power company
is kilowatt-HOURS.  What you buy from the store is kilowatt capacity.
That is, your typical generattle can pump out 5-6kWH in an hour.
But what you usually have to purchase in generating capacity is
the ability to handle your peak load, whatever that is.  If your
math above was accurate, you would only need to purchase a 10k/24
or 400 Watt generator in order to supply your monthly needs.
It would run at max capacity 24/7.

If you were running a household like a hybrid car, with a battery
(or other) system to level the load, that 400W generator _would_
do it, ignoring inefficiencies.

-- Jim

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Heh.  RegOhm regulator - now I see it.  Better hope
 nothing ever happens to it - they are NLA and have
 been for years.

So I understand.  It's an electromechanical marvel.

 And what you got was an archive copy, which probably
 looks as bad as the one you got.

Worse.  But it was all there, and with its help and
some skull sweat I was able to piece together the
original schematic, which I then recreated in Illustrator.

 E-mail me the link with the drawing again - you may be
 able to reconnect it - I can check.

Que?  My recreated schematic is:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/genschem.pdf
The main link is
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset.html

 Consumption probably isn't as bad as you suspect.
 I'll check some numbers when I get a chance.

That would be great!

 Are they circuit breakers or contactors?  Either way,
 they are probably Westinghouse ATS' brand labeled for
 Kohler.  Pretty beefy and simple to work on as well.

Contactors/transfer switches.  One big 400A red handled
Westinghouse 3-pole service disconnect switch too.  The
transfer switches are ASCO and Onan, and one big old
300A Zenith transfer switch I like the looks of.  Six
big metal boxes for $60, my kind of deal!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond

Sure do, Frigidaire wall unit. Cools the whole 900sqft house.
Remember its MA, 2 maybe 3 100 degree days a year. About 3 weeks in the mid 90s 
and maybe 2 months in the mid '80s.

300-350KWH is what we used to run in the 650sqft apartment too. That was cooled 
by a huge old wall unit. I've no doubt this one is much more efficient.

We've also got an electric stove and dryer.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 09:55:28 -0500
From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Curt Raymond wrote:
 We use ~300KW/month during the height of summer.

I guess you don't have A/C?  I used almost 2400kWH last month.  Thats 
the highest I've ever used though... It should go down when the central
 
is working and I'm not using a 20+ year old wall unit (huge wall unit, 
cools the whole house almost).

Thats also with gas stove, oven, water heater, and dryer.

John





   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Never the less for us (see my other posts) I suspect a 10K genny would 
 allow us to live life almost without disruption.

And for many folks.  The usual whole-house automatic standby
unit they sell is in the 10-12kW range.  It's a nice size.
A friend has a 20kW Ford/Onan industrial genset, it's a
tiny bit large but he got a decent deal on it.  I used to
think it was hot stuff, but my Kohler makes it look like
junk.  (And the MD-3 makes the Kohler look like junk.)

-- Jim


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[MBZ] OT Curtis Hour Meter

2007-09-15 Thread Frederick Moir
Hi, All. and Jim C.
In my archived parts (junkpile) there is a boxed, new and never used, solid 
state LCD 24v hour meter. Curtis#700RR00101224VDC, yours for the asking.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
300TD
190DT Bent
250E

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 E-mail me the link with the drawing again - you may be
 able to reconnect it - I can check.

Oh, maybe you're asking about the wiring of the
generator's windings?  I have all that.  It's pretty
slick, I use a welding plug to move from A to B to
switch from 3-phase Wye to 1-phase Zigzag.  I figured
I might want to hook up some surplus 3-phase equipment
someday, so I made it easy.

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/Genzig.pdf
and
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/Genwye.pdf

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cranking sessions - was primer pump on 190D

2007-09-15 Thread Zoltan Finks
Well yes, but when the engine is running, you are usually doing at
least 500 rpm or so.

But when cranking by starter, I don't know hay many rpms the engine is
doing, but it would seem to me that it would be a lot lower.

Brian

On 9/15/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 It's adequate when the engine is running isn't it?  You get full
 pressure (3 bar) pretty quickly unless the oil pump is badly worn or
 the bearings are bad.

 The only time I would NOT crank for extended periods is when the engine
 is assembled dry -- this is what assembly lube are pre-oiling pumps are
 for.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Cranking sessions - was primer pump on 190D

2007-09-15 Thread Peter Frederick
Gassers typically 50 rpm or so, diesels at least 100 rpm (won't start 
any slower than that).

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Cranking sessions - was primer pump on 190D

2007-09-15 Thread OK Don
You can watch the oil pressure climb while you're cranking - not a problem.


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Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] Outstanding

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond
Is anybody on here using SeaFoam gas additive?
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
My chainsaw was playing up bad, when I'd get it good and warm, say after 2-3 
cuts in 12+ wood unless I kept my finger on the throttle it'd quit. Eventually 
it'd quit no matter what. Once it'd quit it would not restart. If I put the 
choke on it'd pop but that was it.
I put a bit of the Seafoam in the gas and as I was concerned about having 
enough lubrication I put in an equal measure of marvelous oil, about a teaspoon 
of each lets say.
The first run was pretty good until the chain went dull on me. It did quit 
though when I let the throttle off.
It took me awhile to find a file and carefully sharpen. Since this is the first 
time on a new chain I wanted to be real careful and do a good job. [and I did 
too.] So the saw was cool (pretty much anyway) by the time I tried it again. It 
fired right up and ran just fine until I was too tired and nervous of hurting 
my back again to keep going.

Anyway I've got a couple other miracle stories about the stuff but I thought 
that one was pretty cool. Wouldn't work on a machine that wouldn't start I 
don't think but in this case it sure saved the day...

-Curt

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If that's one of those chinese diesels, one of those little red levers 
is most likely a compression release . You hold that down while first 
cranking and it allows the engine to spin a little faster, then you let 
off as it starts to catch ( at least it works that way on some of them )

-Robert

im Cathey wrote:
 First I checked the oil.  It had some.  Next I checked the battery, it
 was dead and drew no charging current.  I went and got a car battery
 and a set of jumper cables and hooked it up.  The key then worked, but
 the engine only turned over a few times before it 'stalled'.  I pulled
 the end cover off the housing and spun the motor back so the starter
 could get a 'run' at it, then it turned over again.  It cranked a lot
 but no fire.  There wasn't much fuel in the tank.  I poured in the 2
 gallons I had in a can and cranked again.  (Sometimes I had to roll
 the motor backwards again.)  Eventually it started firing
 intermittently, and with more cranking and running attempts it finally
 got up 'on plane' and ran.  Not all that noisy, even with the covers
 off.

 Once it had run a few times it started easily with the key.  I'm sure
 being warm helped, as did getting all the air purged from the fuel
 system.  The set takes a long time to spin down when turned off.
 There's a spring-loaded red lever behind the access hatch that applies
 throttle.  If you hit the release lever it drops to, or below, idle
 and stops.  There is also a red lever on top that I don't know the
 purpose of.  It can only be accessed with the box's end cover taken
 off.

 There is no voltage output, either AC or DC.  I checked the wiring and
 such inside the cabinet, and there were no obvious faults or burned
 items.  The regulator is potted, so that's not very handy.  There is
 an exposed power diode bridge, but it checks out OK.  There are no
 specs or schematics that I can find, I'm not sure where to look next.
 There's an odd heat-sinked box separate from the regulator that hooks
 to a pair of green wires that come out of the flywheel area.  It has
 an inline fuse hooked to it, which I checked.  Also good.  There are a
 lot of wires.

 It's a mystery.  Perhaps I've just purchased a one-lunged diesel motor
 for $400?  Still not a bad deal!

 When I took the big battery off I found that the little one was now
 taking a charge.  We'll see if it recovers enough to be usable.  It,
 not fully charged, wasn't (yet) able to fight the engine's compression
 enough to turn over.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 If that's one of those chinese diesels, one of those little red levers
 is most likely a compression release . You hold that down while first
 cranking and it allows the engine to spin a little faster, then you let
 off as it starts to catch ( at least it works that way on some of them 
 )

It's in the right place for one of those, but there's no way
to actuate it without partially disassembling the enclosure!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 22, Issue 88

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Bigham
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 10:43:18 -0500
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake pads: Brain picking
 
The ventilated disks are required -- otherwise the rotor cannot 
dissipate heat fast enough and braking efficiency drops (meaning you 
stop less quickly). They also save weight.
__
 
I should have said New or freshly refinished stock type rotors on 
a 123 chassis, not special cross drilled rotors.

Lo siento ! 

Thanks for your advice. 



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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread LarryT
you wrote that : his (semi transient) help will do CLT and worse.  That is 
another story 

Unfortunately, this is widespread IMHO.  The only reason they get away with 
it and stay in business is the public's lack of knowledge of mechanical 
things.  They are uninformed enough to believe the following one or more 
excuses:
+ they all do that
+ must be chinese parts
+ can't get good help these days
+ things aren't made to last like they used to
+ I've never seen or heard or that before
+ it's gotta be that synthetic/dino crap you;re using
+ you;re not using this $40 additive we sell are you?
+ it's the way you are driving it
+you're not bringing it in to us often enough

and on and on.  I have long ago decided to do all the work I possibly can. 
Luckily I was trained as a mechanic back in the late 60s which allows me to 
do everything from engine and transmission rebuilds to brake work.  There's 
somethings I refuse to do - exhaust work is a PITA so I pay someone which is 
also true for much of the work that needs to be done while laying on my back 
in the garage.  Plus, I;m getting older so more and more will probably be 
done by others.  But I;ll resist as much as possible.

The biggest problem I have with others working on my car is them not doing 
things that obviously need done while they;re in there.  If I'm working on 
something and see missing pr loose fasteners, I fix them.  If a mechanic 
sees missing stuff I wish they;d tell me and I;d probably tell them to fix 
it.  If it were me, I'd always fix things needing it.  My second biggest 
complaint is them doing things that don't need to be done but they keep 
defending what they did as necessary to an absurd extent.

I think that there is hope - todays kids seem drawn to cars the way many of 
us were in the 50s and 60s.  They do much of their own work and understand 
how their cars work.

Although it seems a lot of kids are unwilling to choose this line of work. 
A local community college president related this story - a local Ford dealer 
told the Pres he would hire any students graduating from the CCs auto 
technology program at a starting salary of $50K /yr. This was 5 years ago so 
I suspect it has gone up.  Sadly there were few takers.

Oh well, life goes on --

Sadly,
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics



 OMG!  And I thought I was the only one who knew!

 Once I had a worn out timing set on a 302 Ford engine replaced at
 the local Ford dealer's shop. Chain had climbed the sprocket. $$$

 Not many miles later, I pulled the oil drinking engine for rebuild.  302
 Ford timing sprockets slip on the crank and cam with chain on both
 sprockets when slipped on.  Kind of a Chinese puzzle.

 This one had been hammered on the cam, and some of the nylon teeth
 on the cam sprocket were cracked, and others were broken off.  It
 had worked fine with teeth broken off.

 I took the set back to the dealer with my invoice for parts and labor,
 and I got a new timing set free.

 One reason to do one's own work is to avoid crap like that.  I am
 fortunate to have an independent foreign car mechanic who I do not
 believe would ever do CLT.

 The bad news is that some of his (semi transient) help will do CLT
 and worse.  That is another story for another time, titled  The great
 water pump change fiasco.  Soon to be in paperback in stores near
 you.

 [Original Message]
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: 9/15/2007 10:46:53 AM
 Subject: RE: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

 There are still lot of jackleg mechanics who often do bad work.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
 Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 10:07 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

 Fri, 14 Sep 2007 17:13:21 -0400
 Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted

 I love the term Factory Rebuilt.

 In East Hartford, CT there was a dealer who rebuilt flathead fords in
 the 50's. They were advertised, stamped and invoiced as Factory
 Rebuilt. Because Ford wanted the royalty!

 _

 Ford has offered rebuilt major assemblies since at least Model A days.

 For a long time, Ford did something like franchise the rebuilding of,
 particularly, flathead engines.  They required certain standards in the
 work.

 The rebuillt engines had a sticker saying Authorized Ford Rebuilt
 or 

Re: [MBZ] Outstanding

2007-09-15 Thread Rick Knoble
 Is anybody on here using SeaFoam gas additive?
 http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

It is good stuff. I asked my local small engine guy about additives like 
Sta-bil and he sold me on Seafoam. He also said to spend the money and buy 
premium fuel if the machine is to sit unused for any length of time. Like 
*ahem* snowblowers 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

Lows in the forties tonight here in NW Indiana. Snow is just around the 
corner...

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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Rick Knoble
 I think that there is hope - todays kids seem drawn to cars the way many of 
 us were in the 50s and 60s.  They do much of their own work and understand 
 how their cars work.
 
 Although it seems a lot of kids are unwilling to choose this line of work. 
 A local community college president related this story - a local Ford dealer 
 told the Pres he would hire any students graduating from the CCs auto 
 technology program at a starting salary of $50K /yr. This was 5 years ago so 
 I suspect it has gone up.  Sadly there were few takers.
 
 Oh well, life goes on --

My 14 y/o son wants to go into a mechanical or electrical trade when he 
graduates high school. I have no problem with that, however I have explained to 
him that when he gets to be 50 plus years old, he may not like turning wrenches 
40 hours a week any more. I am twisting his arm to go to college first. He is 
very intelligent and will do well whatever profession he chooses. He traded a 
bicycle for a non-running 5hp Honda engine. He was thrilled to have it running 
within an hour of getting it home. Instead of him taking stuff apart and ME 
putting it back together correctly, he is getting better about completing tasks 
like this with little input from me. 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] Outstanding

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond

I only buy premium when its to be gas in a can. I also add about an ounce of 
seafoam to the can before I get gas. That way I don't forget.
I summerized my snowblower only with seafoam this year for the first time ever. 
It'll be interesting to see how it does.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:12:38 -0500
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Outstanding
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 Is anybody on here using SeaFoam gas additive?
 http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

It is good stuff. I asked my local small engine guy about additives
 like Sta-bil and he sold me on Seafoam. He also said to spend the money
 and buy premium fuel if the machine is to sit unused for any length of
 time. Like *ahem* snowblowers 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

Lows in the forties tonight here in NW Indiana. Snow is just around the
 corner...

   
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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond

Rick, 

I wanted to go into auto repair when I got out of highschool. My dad talked me 
into working for a season and then I talked myself into college.

If I had it all to do over again I'd ABSOLUTELY go to tradeschool. No question. 
If I had my choice I think I'd be an electrician but I'd like to have a 
sememster to try all the different trades and see which fit me best.
The problem with college is you come out and didn't learn to actually DO 
anything. Lotsa theory, so you've got all the ideas but to but the rubber to 
the road?
Thats actually unfair, I interned and when I got out I was fairly adept but man 
to have an actual trade.

Absolutely don't let him go into high tech! With a recession around the corner 
I'm nervous of the impending layoff. I'm in a pretty good place now but any 
high tech firm is ripe for downsizing.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:08:51 -0500
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

My 14 y/o son wants to go into a mechanical or electrical trade when he
 graduates high school. I have no problem with that, however I have
 explained to him that when he gets to be 50 plus years old, he may not
 like turning wrenches 40 hours a week any more. I am twisting his arm to
 go to college first. He is very intelligent and will do well whatever
 profession he chooses. He traded a bicycle for a non-running 5hp Honda
 engine. He was thrilled to have it running within an hour of getting it
 home. Instead of him taking stuff apart and ME putting it back together
 correctly, he is getting better about completing tasks like this with
 little input from me. 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

   
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and lay it on us.
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Re: [MBZ] Outstanding

2007-09-15 Thread Wonko the Sane
A half can of that is my standard motorcycle pre-riding tune-up in the
spring. I also used it to pre-fill the fuel filter on my VW diesel.

On 9/15/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Is anybody on here using SeaFoam gas additive?




-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] Outstanding

2007-09-15 Thread billr
Rick - I spent about 7 years in West Central [Veedersburg, IN] while I did grad 
and post-grad work.  34 below one morning; coldest this FL boy ever saw.  Where 
are you?  I am not thrilled with Jacksonville summers, but I don't miss IN 
winters at all.  No snow blowers here, but I do use Sea Foam for my generator.  
No complaints thus far - but thus far I have not needed it.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  295k miles 

-Original Message-
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 15, 2007 4:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Outstanding

 Is anybody on here using SeaFoam gas additive?
 http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

It is good stuff. I asked my local small engine guy about additives like 
Sta-bil and he sold me on Seafoam. He also said to spend the money and buy 
premium fuel if the machine is to sit unused for any length of time. Like 
*ahem* snowblowers 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

Lows in the forties tonight here in NW Indiana. Snow is just around the 
corner...

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Re: [MBZ] Cranking sessions - was primer pump on 190D

2007-09-15 Thread Zoltan Finks
Good point. Guess I've not had a cranking session yet.

I should have known this because with my big block Chrysler, I would
pull the distributor and insert a shaft and run the pump with a drill.
And the oil pressure would get up to around 70psi.

Brian

On 9/15/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You can watch the oil pressure climb while you're cranking - not a problem.


 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
 -Benjamin Disraeli
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 If I had it all to do over again I'd ABSOLUTELY go to tradeschool.
 The problem with college is you didn't learn to actually DO anything.

Exactly.  College is supposed to provide you with
an education, training is supposed to show you how
to DO things.  Different purposes.  The education,
anyway, was supposed to teach you how to think and
how to learn, and to provide an information basis
for your thinker to chew on.

Medical and law schools, for example, are trade
(training) schools.  I don't believe, however,
that they will accept un-educated pupils.  Quite
probably because they don't need to.

You need to get the right kind of schooling for what
you will be doing with your life.  If you don't you
are wasting time and money.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
While this dates me a bit, I chose to go into
automotive trade school after a wasted (truly wasted!)
year of college at IU/Bloomington.  It took a year of
partying and not making grades to convince my parents
that I was *not* college material at the time, despite
my constant efforts to tell them as they packed me
off.

I went to Lincoln Technical Institute in Indianapolis
at the intersection of 16th Street and Stadium (I
think) drive, not far from the Mr. Bendo of the auto
exhaust place on 16th Street.

I got an associates degree in automotive technology
which was a piece of cake for a kid who had been
rebuilding Beetle engines since he was 13.  The one
course I really liked was on automatic transmissions,
as I knew little about them at the time and was
thoroughly amazed at how they worked.

I had boatloads of interviews when I got out, but
every place (including World Wide Motors, the local MB
dealership who offered me a job) was a flat rate shop,
and I just didn't see how you could make decent money
in many of these places if the service manager
controlled what jobs you got.  That's not to say I was
against flat rate work - I wasn't - I had already seen
and heard of too many shops where if you weren't in
the good graces of the person who handed out the work
orders in the morning you could end up getting
screwed.

That's when I took my strong electrical knowledge and
put it to use for an Onan (generator) distributor
my engine background helped a lot as well.  It's tough
finding a good engine guy who can troubleshoot
electrical controls, too.

Send him to trade school.  By all means, especially if
it's something he likes doing.  That was the thing for
me - I loved doing what I did, and sitting in a
classroom for four years was not going to put me in
something I liked.

Dan


--- Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Rick, 
 
 I wanted to go into auto repair when I got out of
 highschool. My dad talked me into working for a
 season and then I talked myself into college.
 
 If I had it all to do over again I'd ABSOLUTELY go
 to tradeschool. No question. If I had my choice I
 think I'd be an electrician but I'd like to have a
 sememster to try all the different trades and see
 which fit me best.
 The problem with college is you come out and didn't
 learn to actually DO anything. Lotsa theory, so
 you've got all the ideas but to but the rubber to
 the road?
 Thats actually unfair, I interned and when I got out
 I was fairly adept but man to have an actual trade.
 
 Absolutely don't let him go into high tech! With a
 recession around the corner I'm nervous of the
 impending layoff. I'm in a pretty good place now but
 any high tech firm is ripe for downsizing.
 
 -Curt



  

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
The Generac home standby systems that are being sold
in the big box stores these days are very well
designed and engineered, despite being a Generac
product (commonly know as Genecrap in the industry.)

Dan



--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Never the less for us (see my other posts) I
 suspect a 10K genny would 
  allow us to live life almost without disruption.
 
 And for many folks.  The usual whole-house automatic
 standby
 unit they sell is in the 10-12kW range.  It's a nice
 size.
 A friend has a 20kW Ford/Onan industrial genset,
 it's a
 tiny bit large but he got a decent deal on it.  I
 used to
 think it was hot stuff, but my Kohler makes it look
 like
 junk.  (And the MD-3 makes the Kohler look like
 junk.)
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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[MBZ] OT: another thing that looks easy

2007-09-15 Thread Curt Raymond
Theres a horrible shower stall in our basement that I'm working to take out. 
Today I decided to tackle removing the plumbing.
I bought some 1/2 copper end caps, cut the pipe, sanded and all like I've seen 
my Dad do a million times but the DAMMED THING JUST WOULD NOT SWEAT.
I couldn't get it to take solder for love or money...
Finally pulled the stub end out of the T it was in and essentially swaged the 
cap on. I got it WAY too hot (glowing) and just kept pounding the solder to it. 
Its never coming off but will it leak?
I managed to get it back into the T with a minimum of fuss but it sure wouldn't 
take any more solder. Hopefully what was there will hold. We'll see...

-Curt

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1995 manual tranny Nissan Maxima/ bleeding

2007-09-15 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 9/15/2007 1:10:45 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  girlfriend ran low on clutch fluid on her 1995 Nissan Maxima, and  looks  
like air got sucked in. Anyone have any suggestions on how to bleed  the  air 
out of the clutch?



As someone mentioned, it is very likely that something in the clutch  circuit 
is leaking.  Non the less, they will often bleed themselves if you  can find 
a way to drive it a mile or so with out the clutch.  Make sure the  clutch 
pedal is up (you can hook it up with your toe)  when you are driving  as the 
oil 
port will be blocked if the pedal is left down.  
 
Procedure:  warm the engine in neutral to facilitate an in gear  start.  
Point the car in a safe direction and then push the pedal down to  defeat the 
interlock and start the car.  It will immediately begin moving  so make sure 
all 
is clear.  Once underway, you can leave it in low or shift  up if you are good 
at matching speeds.  as you are driving, occasionally  push the pedal down to 
see if any progress was made.  The pedal will stay  down if not bled yet, just 
hook it back up and drive some more.  Shortly,  the pedal will return up by 
spring force, indicating the air is out, and you can  shift normally.
 
When you return, look for dripping brake fluid under the car, or possibly  in 
the foot well on the driver's side, from the brake master  cylinder.
 
Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 151 K  miles



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Re: [MBZ] OT: another thing that looks easy

2007-09-15 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 9/15/2007 2:43:00 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Theres a  horrible shower stall in our basement that I'm working to take out. 
Today I  decided to tackle removing the plumbing.
I bought some 1/2 copper end  caps, cut the pipe, sanded and all like I've 
seen my Dad do a million times  but the DAMMED THING JUST WOULD NOT SWEAT.
I couldn't get it to take solder  for love or money...
Finally pulled the stub end out of the T it was in and  essentially swaged 
the cap on. I got it WAY too hot (glowing) and just kept  pounding the solder 
to 
it. Its never coming off but will it leak?
I managed  to get it back into the T with a minimum of fuss but it sure 
wouldn't take any  more solder. Hopefully what was there will hold. We'll  
see...



Curt, 
 
Did you use flux paste of any type?  Most plumbing solders do not have  flux 
in them.  The lead free plumbing solders are a little harder to run  but 
sounds like you had plenty of heat.  Make sure there is no water within  3 
inches 
of the joint, suck it out with a straw or siphon with a small hose.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 151 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread archer
 Your Kohler is a 45R, which is a 45kW inherently
 regulated model.  No voltage regulator - the windings
 are designed to do all the dirty work.  It does, in

 It does have a voltage regulator, a Regohm unit.
 There is an option for a bypass switch, so you may
 be right about its ability to run without a regulator
 with just a rheostat, though this unit has the regulator.
 Getting information about this generator has so far
 proven nearly impossible.  The tattered schematic inside
 the lid is just about all there is.  All Kohler could do
 was fax me a worse copy than I already had.

 fact, crank from a special winding within the
 exciter,but in order to do this, it has to have a
 series-parallel battery setup to provide adequate
 current to the exciter cranking windings.

 It's a straight 24V battery bank.  It draws some
 300A to crank over, pretty much like the usual
 reduction starter (such as the mystery Lucas/Bendix
 starter that was sitting on top of it) except for
 the 2x voltage.  I think the system is pretty slick.
 Very smooth and quiet, the motor just starts turning
 without any grinding, whining, etc.  Thub-thub-thub...

 The Hercules (later known as White-Hercules) engine on
 this model is built like a brick doghouse, and would
 be comparable as far as reliability to a 617 diesel.
 Hercules engines were used for many years in the
 industrial field, as well as in Jeeps during WWII.

 It impressed me with its stoutness.  And surely is a
 heavy beast!  Didn't seem to be able to withstand
 frozen water in the block, or rain down its neck.
 Imagine that!

 Despite having electric heat, that unit should have no
 problem taking on your whole house as a load.

 Yes, it's the application that is the problem.  The
 Kohler is 3-phase, the house is not.  The resistance
 banks (5?) in the furnace could be rewired to delta,
 and at 208 volts it wouldn't draw the full rating
 so the entire house could probably run on it.  (That
 is, everything lit at once.)  But getting it _wired_
 to run on 3-phase would be a major problem.  Right
 now I just have it wired zig-zag with your basic
 back-feed 50A dryer cable.  A long ways from the 200A
 equivalent service it could provide.
--
As a teenager I worked for an electrical contractor.  I remember a 
transformer that converted three phase to three wire grounded neutral 
which provided three 120v lines or 220v using any combination of two IIRC. 
See fig. 1-4 in:
http://www.elec-toolbox.com/usefulinfo/xfmr-3ph.htm
Finding a small transformer of that sort might be a problem although I seem 
to remember seeing them in industrial plants with three phase distribution 
systems.
Gerry 


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[MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If you all remember I discovered the reason my 92 has no boost is 
because it has a bad rack position sensor in the IP.  Well today I 
pulled the pump off the car and was going to swap in the pump off the 
engine I am pulling out of another car that was running but not right. 
When I pulled the plug on the side of the pump I was going to install 
(the plug to insert the lock tool), very thin oil ran out, quite a bit. 
  I then remember this was the engine that seemed to be getting diesel 
in the oil.  So, I suspect this pump is not any good and really do not 
want to install it.  So, now I do not have a spare 2.5 pump.  I guess I 
am going to need to send my pump in and have the rack position sensor 
replaced. Anybody know anywhere that works on these pumps?  Dont think I 
need a full rebuild but if it was not very expensive I might just go 
that route.
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: another thing that looks easy

2007-09-15 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Curt,

Or plug up the line with a chunk/plug of white bread...  It will  
hold the water back while you solder and will just dissolve in time  
and run down the drain..  It's worked for me..

Take care,

Chuck
On Sep 15, 2007, at 2:50 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 In a message dated 9/15/2007 2:43:00 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Theres a  horrible shower stall in our basement that I'm working to  
 take out.
 Today I  decided to tackle removing the plumbing.
 I bought some 1/2 copper end  caps, cut the pipe, sanded and all  
 like I've
 seen my Dad do a million times  but the DAMMED THING JUST WOULD NOT  
 SWEAT.
 I couldn't get it to take solder  for love or money...
 Finally pulled the stub end out of the T it was in and  essentially  
 swaged
 the cap on. I got it WAY too hot (glowing) and just kept  pounding  
 the solder to
 it. Its never coming off but will it leak?
 I managed  to get it back into the T with a minimum of fuss but it  
 sure
 wouldn't take any  more solder. Hopefully what was there will hold.  
 We'll  see...



 Curt,

 Did you use flux paste of any type?  Most plumbing solders do not  
 have  flux
 in them.  The lead free plumbing solders are a little harder to  
 run  but
 sounds like you had plenty of heat.  Make sure there is no water  
 within  3 inches
 of the joint, suck it out with a straw or siphon with a small hose.

 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles
 98 ML 320, 151 K  miles




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 www.aol.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
Line transformers do this but they only bridge two phases. Line transformers
work because your house is across two legs, the next house is across the one
leg you are on and the third, then the next house is across the other leg
you are on and the third.

Put a transformer on this generator's output and you'd only be using 1/3 of
the generator.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 5:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

 Your Kohler is a 45R, which is a 45kW inherently
 regulated model.  No voltage regulator - the windings
 are designed to do all the dirty work.  It does, in

 It does have a voltage regulator, a Regohm unit.
 There is an option for a bypass switch, so you may
 be right about its ability to run without a regulator
 with just a rheostat, though this unit has the regulator.
 Getting information about this generator has so far
 proven nearly impossible.  The tattered schematic inside
 the lid is just about all there is.  All Kohler could do
 was fax me a worse copy than I already had.

 fact, crank from a special winding within the
 exciter,but in order to do this, it has to have a
 series-parallel battery setup to provide adequate
 current to the exciter cranking windings.

 It's a straight 24V battery bank.  It draws some
 300A to crank over, pretty much like the usual
 reduction starter (such as the mystery Lucas/Bendix
 starter that was sitting on top of it) except for
 the 2x voltage.  I think the system is pretty slick.
 Very smooth and quiet, the motor just starts turning
 without any grinding, whining, etc.  Thub-thub-thub...

 The Hercules (later known as White-Hercules) engine on
 this model is built like a brick doghouse, and would
 be comparable as far as reliability to a 617 diesel.
 Hercules engines were used for many years in the
 industrial field, as well as in Jeeps during WWII.

 It impressed me with its stoutness.  And surely is a
 heavy beast!  Didn't seem to be able to withstand
 frozen water in the block, or rain down its neck.
 Imagine that!

 Despite having electric heat, that unit should have no
 problem taking on your whole house as a load.

 Yes, it's the application that is the problem.  The
 Kohler is 3-phase, the house is not.  The resistance
 banks (5?) in the furnace could be rewired to delta,
 and at 208 volts it wouldn't draw the full rating
 so the entire house could probably run on it.  (That
 is, everything lit at once.)  But getting it _wired_
 to run on 3-phase would be a major problem.  Right
 now I just have it wired zig-zag with your basic
 back-feed 50A dryer cable.  A long ways from the 200A
 equivalent service it could provide.
--
As a teenager I worked for an electrical contractor.  I remember a 
transformer that converted three phase to three wire grounded neutral 
which provided three 120v lines or 220v using any combination of two IIRC. 
See fig. 1-4 in:
http://www.elec-toolbox.com/usefulinfo/xfmr-3ph.htm
Finding a small transformer of that sort might be a problem although I seem 
to remember seeing them in industrial plants with three phase distribution 
systems.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Rhonald Angelo

Hey Rick...trades are great...but whatever you do...DON'T let him put all of 
his eggs in one basket.  In my opinion, one needs to have at least 3 things he 
can learn to do well.  

Rhonald
1985 300D
299,000 miles

 Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 13:41:47 -0700
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics
 
 
 Rick, 
 
 I wanted to go into auto repair when I got out of highschool. My dad talked 
 me into working for a season and then I talked myself into college.
 
 If I had it all to do over again I'd ABSOLUTELY go to tradeschool. No 
 question. If I had my choice I think I'd be an electrician but I'd like to 
 have a sememster to try all the different trades and see which fit me best.
 The problem with college is you come out and didn't learn to actually DO 
 anything. Lotsa theory, so you've got all the ideas but to but the rubber to 
 the road?
 Thats actually unfair, I interned and when I got out I was fairly adept but 
 man to have an actual trade.
 
 Absolutely don't let him go into high tech! With a recession around the 
 corner I'm nervous of the impending layoff. I'm in a pretty good place now 
 but any high tech firm is ripe for downsizing.
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:08:51 -0500
 From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
 My 14 y/o son wants to go into a mechanical or electrical trade when he
  graduates high school. I have no problem with that, however I have
  explained to him that when he gets to be 50 plus years old, he may not
  like turning wrenches 40 hours a week any more. I am twisting his arm to
  go to college first. He is very intelligent and will do well whatever
  profession he chooses. He traded a bicycle for a non-running 5hp Honda
  engine. He was thrilled to have it running within an hour of getting it
  home. Instead of him taking stuff apart and ME putting it back together
  correctly, he is getting better about completing tasks like this with
  little input from me. 
 
 Rick Knoble 
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT
 

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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:50:16 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I then remember this was the engine that seemed to be getting diesel 
 in the oil.  So, I suspect this pump is not any good and really do not 
 want to install it. 

Good plan.


 I guess I am going to need to send my pump in and have the rack position
 sensor replaced. Anybody know anywhere that works on these pumps? 


http://www.centralmotivepower.com/


CENTRAL MOTIVE POWER - DENVER
6301 N. Broadway
Denver, CO.   80216
Phone   (303) 428-3611
(800) 822-4332
Fax (303) 428-6785


They have a coupon at
http://www.centralmotivepower.com/Central%20Motive%20Power%20%20NAPA%20Coupon.htm
that's good for a  FREE D I A G N O S T I C  C H E C K.

You might call them and see what they say about repairing your pump and
then mention the coupon.


 Dont think I need a full rebuild but if it was not very expensive I
 might just go that route.

A full rebuild is several hundred dollars. If you think that's necessary,
ask Rusty what he has.


Craig

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[MBZ] Cheap Microsoft Office 2007

2007-09-15 Thread LWB250
I am far from a Microsoft pimp, but as an educational
customer, I get this crap all the time...

http://www.theultimatesteal.com/home.asp

If you've got a student in the house and a machine
that runs Windoze this is a hell of a deal.

Dan


   

Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Send him to trade school.  By all means, especially if
 it's something he likes doing.  That was the thing for
 me - I loved doing what I did, and sitting in a
 classroom for four years was not going to put me in
 something I liked.

If the career path started by going to trade school
(or whatever) leads to where you can live and die,
and you love it, go for it!  Enjoying what you do
is the key to success.  (Sufficient income and
earned respect are also keys.)

The only trouble is that to many high-school kids,
a regular paycheck even at minimum wage might look
too good.  They don't have a realistic grasp on the
expenses of life.  That's where you, dear parents,
come in!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Peter Frederick
Try the Bosch service center in Chicago (I don't remember the name at 
the moment).  I believe they are the only official Bosch service that 
works on the 603 pumps.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Put a transformer on this generator's output and you'd only be using 
 1/3 of
 the generator.

Wired zig-zag one gets some 2/3 rated output.  Mine's rated at
26kW this way.  Mui better.

Compare the two wiring diagrams:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/Genwye.pdf or
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/Genwye.gif

versus

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/Genzig.pdf or
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/genset/Genzig.gif

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese generator

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
The red lever on top is a compression release, obviously not intended
for operation in this particular installation.

Does anybody know anything about these small Chinese generator ends?
Any way to test the magnetics?

The generator end has six wires in addition to the obvious main
outputs.  Two yellow and two blue wires of mid gauge in one connector,
and another connector with two smaller-gauge red and white wires.
There is 0.6 ohms between the yellows (or was it blue?) and 1.2
between blues (or was it yellow?), and 17 ohms red to white.  The red
wire is collared with a + label on the potted regulator side.  All
of these windings (?)  appear isolated.  I tried feeding 12V through a
test light to the 17-ohm winding, but it didn't generate power then.
(The battery charging circuit is separate, part of the motor, and is
functional.)  There is another connector from the front panel to the
regulator that has four wires, red, black, and two white.  When
running there is power between all three and the black wire.  The
main generator output is large-gauge wire, and goes to a terminal
block.  That's not an issue!  The potted regulator is in two pieces,
and there are two trim pots sticking out.  The tops of several
standard-looking components are sticking up out of the sea of epoxy.
I sure wish that was a serviceable item!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese generator

2007-09-15 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:11:55 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Does anybody know anything about these small Chinese generator ends?
 Any way to test the magnetics?

Would posing this question to the manufacturer yield any assistance?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
thanks

Craig McCluskey wrote:
 On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:50:16 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 I then remember this was the engine that seemed to be getting diesel 
 in the oil.  So, I suspect this pump is not any good and really do not 
 want to install it. 
 
 Good plan.
 
 
 I guess I am going to need to send my pump in and have the rack position
 sensor replaced. Anybody know anywhere that works on these pumps? 
 
 
 http://www.centralmotivepower.com/
 
 
 CENTRAL MOTIVE POWER - DENVER
 6301 N. Broadway
 Denver, CO.   80216
 Phone   (303) 428-3611
 (800) 822-4332
 Fax (303) 428-6785
 
 
 They have a coupon at
 http://www.centralmotivepower.com/Central%20Motive%20Power%20%20NAPA%20Coupon.htm
 that's good for a  FREE D I A G N O S T I C  C H E C K.
 
 You might call them and see what they say about repairing your pump and
 then mention the coupon.
 
 
 Dont think I need a full rebuild but if it was not very expensive I
 might just go that route.
 
 A full rebuild is several hundred dollars. If you think that's necessary,
 ask Rusty what he has.
 
 
 Craig
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Rick Knoble
 Try the Bosch service center in Chicago (I don't remember the name at 
 the moment).  I believe they are the only official Bosch service that 
 works on the 603 pumps.
 
 Peter

You could try one of these places.

http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ImageMapResults/ImageMapResults.htm?st=OKtyp=DCcntry=USA

http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ImageMapResults/ImageMapResults.htm?st=OKtyp=DFcntry=USA

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese generator

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Does anybody know anything about these small Chinese generator ends?
 Any way to test the magnetics?

 Would posing this question to the manufacturer yield any assistance?

Is that likely to work?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
thanks

Rick Knoble wrote:
 Try the Bosch service center in Chicago (I don't remember the name at 
 the moment).  I believe they are the only official Bosch service that 
 works on the 603 pumps.

 Peter
 
 You could try one of these places.
 
 http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ImageMapResults/ImageMapResults.htm?st=OKtyp=DCcntry=USA
 
 http://www.boschservice.com/ServiceLocations/ImageMapResults/ImageMapResults.htm?st=OKtyp=DFcntry=USA
 
 Rick Knoble 
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese generator

2007-09-15 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:18:47 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Does anybody know anything about these small Chinese generator ends?
  Any way to test the magnetics?
 
  Would posing this question to the manufacturer yield any assistance?
 
 Is that likely to work?

You don't know until you try.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 190D fuel primer pump

2007-09-15 Thread Wonko the Sane
Gene drove from his place in Des Moines to Jefferson yesterday (about an
hour) in his pickup, dragged his brother's race trailer home (another hour),
and hauled the 190D back to Jefferson (another hour) so Jeff, his older
brother and mechanic extraordinary, could work on the problem. Jeff did
exactly what I told Gene to do and what others suggested -- crack the
injector line and crank until you get fuel. Problem solved within ten
minutes and the 190D took Gene back to Des Moines this afternoon.



On 9/13/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I now (after a LONG cranking session once before) loosen the injector
 lines at the injectors, have someone else crank while I watch, and
 tighten the lines as they start to leak fuel - it re-fills the lines
 MUCH faster than just cranking --

 On 9/13/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Brother-in-law let his 190D run out of fuel. He can't find the hand
   primer
   pump. Where is it?  '84 190D.

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
 -Benjamin Disraeli
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread archer
This was a commercial installation (Florida State Fair) and all three legs 
were used as separate circuits with common grounds IIRC.  If Jim found such 
a transformer why couldn't he use all three legs as separate circuits and 
combinations of two legs for 220v circuits?
Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Line transformers do this but they only bridge two phases. Line 
 transformers
 work because your house is across two legs, the next house is across the 
 one
 leg you are on and the third, then the next house is across the other leg
 you are on and the third.

 Put a transformer on this generator's output and you'd only be using 1/3 
 of
 the generator.

 --
 As a teenager I worked for an electrical contractor.  I remember a
 transformer that converted three phase to three wire grounded neutral
 which provided three 120v lines or 220v using any combination of two IIRC.
 See fig. 1-4 in:
 http://www.elec-toolbox.com/usefulinfo/xfmr-3ph.htm
 Finding a small transformer of that sort might be a problem although I 
 seem
 to remember seeing them in industrial plants with three phase distribution
 systems.
 Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread Redghost
I would think it best to learn a trade so that you could get out of  
college with the least debt needed.  It may take a bit longer to get  
out, but you will have matured immensely by the time you are handed  
that sheepskin.  It is also a great back up incase you get out with  
that BA and there are no survival wage jobs to be had.

clay


On 15 Sep 2007, at 13:41, Curt Raymond wrote:


 Rick,

 I wanted to go into auto repair when I got out of highschool. My  
 dad talked me into working for a season and then I talked myself  
 into college.

 If I had it all to do over again I'd ABSOLUTELY go to tradeschool.  
 No question. If I had my choice I think I'd be an electrician but  
 I'd like to have a sememster to try all the different trades and  
 see which fit me best.
 The problem with college is you come out and didn't learn to  
 actually DO anything. Lotsa theory, so you've got all the ideas but  
 to but the rubber to the road?
 Thats actually unfair, I interned and when I got out I was fairly  
 adept but man to have an actual trade.

 Absolutely don't let him go into high tech! With a recession around  
 the corner I'm nervous of the impending layoff. I'm in a pretty  
 good place now but any high tech firm is ripe for downsizing.

 -Curt

 Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 15:08:51 -0500
 From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 My 14 y/o son wants to go into a mechanical or electrical trade  
 when he
  graduates high school. I have no problem with that, however I have
  explained to him that when he gets to be 50 plus years old, he may  
 not
  like turning wrenches 40 hours a week any more. I am twisting his  
 arm to
  go to college first. He is very intelligent and will do well whatever
  profession he chooses. He traded a bicycle for a non-running 5hp  
 Honda
  engine. He was thrilled to have it running within an hour of  
 getting it
  home. Instead of him taking stuff apart and ME putting it back  
 together
  correctly, he is getting better about completing tasks like this with
  little input from me.

 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT


 -
 Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect.  Join Yahoo!'s  
 user panel and lay it on us.
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Re: [MBZ] My latest score

2007-09-15 Thread tom savage
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 I didnt think you liked 140's.  Did you sell one that was your parents 
 or something?  So tell about the new one you bought?  Also tell about 
 this old beat up 95?  They getting rid of it?

I've warmed up considerably to 140s lately, especially as they keep 
getting cheaper.  The one I more or less inherited was sold a couple of 
years ago.  '95 S320 #2 will be for sale as soon as I clean it up and 
replace a wheel bearing.  80k miles and one owner but not properly 
maintained.

 The 140 did change quite a bit.  Some things for the better, some not. 
 The earlier ones had more features, but also had potential wiring 
 harness issues and such, as well as the evaporator etc.  The later ones 
 they seem to be stripped down somewhat with less features, and things 
 that were standard on the earlier ones, are optional on the later ones. 
   By then they had wiring issue solved.  Not sure about the evaporator 
 thing or not.  Did that ever get solved in the 140?

I don't know if the evaporator issue was ever truly fixed as I've heard 
of '97s losing them, but they did get better over time.  The early 
models were also faster than '94 and up, which were detuned for 
emissions.  Mine is pretty well optioned, with burl, rear shade, 
charcoal filter, and so on.  Remember that in 1992 an LS400 was like 
half the price of a 500SEL and they had to decontent them to get the 
price down and people into the showrooms.

The seats are a lot nicer in the '98.  They were obviously designed for 
well-fed plutocrats, but now an underfed, aspirational yeoman like 
myself actually fits without sliding all over the place.  Installed the 
Sirius today; it took two hours to run the antenna wire from the trunk 
to the passenger compartment, which takes five minutes in a 123.  Damned 
thing is put together like a brick scheisshaus.

Tom

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Re: [MBZ] Transmission toasted: jackleg mechanics

2007-09-15 Thread John Robbins
Redghost wrote:
 I would think it best to learn a trade so that you could get out of  
 college with the least debt needed.  It may take a bit longer to get  
 out, but you will have matured immensely by the time you are handed  
 that sheepskin.  It is also a great back up incase you get out with  
 that BA and there are no survival wage jobs to be had.

The co-op program works wonders... doesn't add anywhere near as much 
time too :)

John

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese generator

2007-09-15 Thread Mitch Haley


Jim Cathey wrote:
 
 Does anybody know anything about these small Chinese generator ends?
 Any way to test the magnetics?

Buy a new one at Costco, figure out how yours is different, then
return the new one. ;-)

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Re: [MBZ] 92 2.5 Turbo IP

2007-09-15 Thread Mitch Haley


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 Anybody know anywhere that works on these pumps?  Dont think I
 need a full rebuild but if it was not very expensive I might just go
 that route.

Antti Arula at Myna-Diesel said he'd rebuild my 2.5 pump with 7mm
pump elements and an external full fuel stop adjustment for 800 euros 
plus shipping. The sensor would probably be extra. You could build
a 300hp 2.5, drop it in a W140, and give it to a real estate agent.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] My latest score

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
well let me know when you sell the 95

tom savage wrote:
 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 I didnt think you liked 140's.  Did you sell one that was your parents 
 or something?  So tell about the new one you bought?  Also tell about 
 this old beat up 95?  They getting rid of it?
 
 I've warmed up considerably to 140s lately, especially as they keep 
 getting cheaper.  The one I more or less inherited was sold a couple of 
 years ago.  '95 S320 #2 will be for sale as soon as I clean it up and 
 replace a wheel bearing.  80k miles and one owner but not properly 
 maintained.
 
 The 140 did change quite a bit.  Some things for the better, some not. 
 The earlier ones had more features, but also had potential wiring 
 harness issues and such, as well as the evaporator etc.  The later ones 
 they seem to be stripped down somewhat with less features, and things 
 that were standard on the earlier ones, are optional on the later ones. 
   By then they had wiring issue solved.  Not sure about the evaporator 
 thing or not.  Did that ever get solved in the 140?
 
 I don't know if the evaporator issue was ever truly fixed as I've heard 
 of '97s losing them, but they did get better over time.  The early 
 models were also faster than '94 and up, which were detuned for 
 emissions.  Mine is pretty well optioned, with burl, rear shade, 
 charcoal filter, and so on.  Remember that in 1992 an LS400 was like 
 half the price of a 500SEL and they had to decontent them to get the 
 price down and people into the showrooms.
 
 The seats are a lot nicer in the '98.  They were obviously designed for 
 well-fed plutocrats, but now an underfed, aspirational yeoman like 
 myself actually fits without sliding all over the place.  Installed the 
 Sirius today; it took two hours to run the antenna wire from the trunk 
 to the passenger compartment, which takes five minutes in a 123.  Damned 
 thing is put together like a brick scheisshaus.
 
 Tom
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] wiring harness

2007-09-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
On the 124 with wiring harness problem, is it just the engine wiring 
harness that needs to be replaced?  I suspect that is my issue with my 
94 E420.  Anybody replaced one before?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese generator

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 Buy a new one at Costco, figure out how yours is different, then
 return the new one. ;-)

You left out the part where I haunt the outlet, then buy
it back again!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 45kW Kohler

2007-09-15 Thread Jim Cathey
 This was a commercial installation (Florida State Fair) and all three 
 legs
 were used as separate circuits with common grounds IIRC.  If Jim found 
 such
 a transformer why couldn't he use all three legs as separate circuits 
 and
 combinations of two legs for 220v circuits?

You have just described 3-phase power.
Which is what I already have!

-- Jim


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