Re: [RCSE] Help

2008-04-08 Thread David Webb
Jerry do you need help getting off dialup? I know its an adictive technology
with all the beepwschrchhh beeebong beebong tszz but
seriously man just call a broadband provider.

As for the exchange it appears to be working

On Tue, Apr 8, 2008 at 7:50 PM, Jerry Shape [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I don't know if this will get out or not but I thought I would give this
 a shot. I have not got a post off the exchange for the last couple of weeks
 and don't know why. If anyone can help me drop me a note. I need to get off
 dail up.
 Thanks Jerry



Re: [RCSE] Help Need Screw Size for Pike Perfect Center Panel

2008-01-28 Thread rmong
Michael, 

The front bolt is 25 mm or 1 inch long, same 
diameter  pitch as the rear. 

Ron Mong 
  - Original Message - 
  From: michael morjoseph 
  To: soaring@airage.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 3:44 PM
  Subject: [RCSE] Help Need Screw Size for Pike Perfect Center Panel


  Ok just got my Pike Perfect all Tuned up and took off the
  wing Bolts for the Center Section and forgot to put them back in the Fuse
  Anyways I did find the Rear Bolt so I know the Size of the Thread
  I do need to know the size of the Front Bolt is it about 1 inch long??
  I do have a nice local hardware store in my Center were I work so I can
  pick one up or maybe a spare also..
  if you email me how long the thread is for the Front Bolt thanks
  Mike.M
  Pike Perfect Newbie



--
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RE: [RCSE] HELP!!! flying in and out of thermals and thermal turns.

2006-10-10 Thread Bob Johnson


I have posted four articles on our club web site that are related to
locating and flying thermals. To read/download them go to 
www.flyvam.com Click on 'Downloads' and scroll down to 'Training Topics'.

Regards,
Bob Johnson
Fond du Lac, WI

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Re: [RCSE] HELP!!! flying in and out of thermals and thermal turns.

2006-10-10 Thread Jay Hunter
Thanks for the info guys. I went out with my photon today and had a blast. I used to worry about being in the air for 30 seconds, now I can get a minute easy with the photon in still no lift air. I tried some of the suggestions like guaging each quarter of the turn, and while it helped I am STILL not that smooth on the sticks. The good thing is that I see improvement. It REALLY is about stick time...


Jay
On 10/10/06, Bob Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have posted four articles on our club web site that are related tolocating and flying thermals. To read/download them go to
www.flyvam.com Click on 'Downloads' and scroll down to 'Training Topics'.Regards,Bob JohnsonFond du Lac, WIRCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to 
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Re: [RCSE] HELP!!! flying in and out of thermals and thermal turns.

2006-10-09 Thread Jeff Steifel
Jay, first off, as soon as you notice that you are in a thermal, start 
turning.

Then figure out which side of the turn is better.
Don't fly thru it and try to get back, you may not always be able to.
Also you are probably on an edge when you see it, or in the core if it 
is light and you only noticed it when it really indicated.

TURN...
How to figure out which side is better. alti drop/ gain, sluggish 
control usually means sink, but may also mean booming thermal that you 
can't turn in (rare here in the east).


Don't fly straight to correct, just oblong the turn in the better 
direction. You will stay with the thermal this way without loosing track 
of it.

Guys that straighten out and try to come back often lose the thermal.

If you are in a small thermal with a DLG turn tight, a big ship will 
depend on the amount of lift, sometimes you can't turn that tight so you 
would fly flat to get the most lift and fly in and out to get bumped up 
OR go find a better thermal.

If it is booming and small a big ship can be put on a wing tip.

Then gradually open it up.

When your plane is climbing nicely and you have power all around you 
have probably cored the thermal. If it is not smooth all the way around 
you are on the edge or gowing in and out of the center of the thermal... 
and therefore it isn't cored.


I'm sure others will chime in.

Jay Hunter wrote:
First off I am flying a photon II R/E dlg.  No flaps, no camber mode, 
just simple RE poly...


I am not sure if anyone can help me but I have been flying through 
thermals.  I have progressed to point where I can tell I just flew 
through a thermal, and I can circle and fly BACK into the thermal, but 
I can not figure out how big the thermal is and I can see the plane 
'falling' out of the thermal.


Any thoughts on how to gauge the size of a thermal, so I know how 
tight to turn?  Also any tips on doing thermal turns so that the 
circles are tight and so I don't stall then speed up, then stall then 
speed up.


Thanks for any help you can offer...

Jay 


--
Jeff Steifel

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Re: [RCSE] HELP!!! flying in and out of thermals and thermal turns.

2006-10-09 Thread Thomas Koszuta

Congratulations.  The first part is noticing you have lift.

There is a diagram in the lower part of this page that visualizes what Jeff 
was saying.

http://www.quicktechhobby.com/articles/thermal_surfing%20part%202.htm
The first one in the series is:
http://www.quicktechhobby.com/articles/thermal_surfing%20part%201.htm

These are oversimpified representations of thermals.  In general you wil 
always have to re-core the thermal, so always look for where the plane is 
going up the fastest (or coming down the slowest) and try to stay in that 
air.  I sometimes reverse my circle if I find that I am skirting the side. 
By this, I mean that.  If I am circling left, and notice that the plane is 
sinking on the left, when I get to the right side, I will start circling to 
the right.


I still try to read these once a year to remind myself of what I am looking 
for and seeing.


The only thing I will add is to be objective when circling.  The hardest 
thing for me is to recognize when I am not in lift and should stop circling.


Tom Koszuta
Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers
Buffalo, NY

- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Steifel [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Jay Hunter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Soaring club soaring@airage.com
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] HELP!!! flying in and out of thermals and thermal turns.


Jay, first off, as soon as you notice that you are in a thermal, start 
turning.

Then figure out which side of the turn is better.
Don't fly thru it and try to get back, you may not always be able to.
Also you are probably on an edge when you see it, or in the core if it is 
light and you only noticed it when it really indicated.

TURN...
How to figure out which side is better. alti drop/ gain, sluggish control 
usually means sink, but may also mean booming thermal that you can't turn 
in (rare here in the east).


Don't fly straight to correct, just oblong the turn in the better 
direction. You will stay with the thermal this way without loosing track 
of it.

Guys that straighten out and try to come back often lose the thermal.

If you are in a small thermal with a DLG turn tight, a big ship will 
depend on the amount of lift, sometimes you can't turn that tight so you 
would fly flat to get the most lift and fly in and out to get bumped up OR 
go find a better thermal.

If it is booming and small a big ship can be put on a wing tip.

Then gradually open it up.

When your plane is climbing nicely and you have power all around you have 
probably cored the thermal. If it is not smooth all the way around you are 
on the edge or gowing in and out of the center of the thermal... and 
therefore it isn't cored.


I'm sure others will chime in.

Jay Hunter wrote:
First off I am flying a photon II R/E dlg.  No flaps, no camber mode, 
just simple RE poly...


I am not sure if anyone can help me but I have been flying through 
thermals.  I have progressed to point where I can tell I just flew 
through a thermal, and I can circle and fly BACK into the thermal, but I 
can not figure out how big the thermal is and I can see the plane 
'falling' out of the thermal.


Any thoughts on how to gauge the size of a thermal, so I know how tight 
to turn?  Also any tips on doing thermal turns so that the circles are 
tight and so I don't stall then speed up, then stall then speed up.


Thanks for any help you can offer...

Jay


--
Jeff Steifel

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RE: [RCSE] Help in Hawaii

2006-09-26 Thread Douglas, Brent
I think we call that high class problems around here... Hope you get
some video, would love to see it!

Good luck,
Brent

*currently building a Higgins CA Sloper that would love to make that
rip, er trip.

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Re: [RCSE] Help to sign up

2006-08-11 Thread Pat McCleave



Ed,

Make sure you are putting just the word subscribe in the 
very first line of the body of the email and at the left most point of that 
line. You do not need any other verbiage in the email. When you get 
the verification email that ask you to send the four lines of test back, just 
hit the reply button and then send and do nothing else. If what I just 
said does not work then you will need help from one of the 
moderators.

See Ya,

Pat


  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Ed 
  Berris 
  To: soaring@airage.com 
  Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 6:38 
  PM
  Subject: [RCSE] Help to sign up
  
  I'm trying to subscribe using a new e-mail 
  address but I can't seem to find the secret code that lets me do 
  that.
  
  I am sending my request to: soaring-request@airage.com 
  I'm not placing a subject in the subject line but I have tried the following 
  in the body of the message:
  
  1. subscribe
  2. subscribe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  Neither of these were accepted so I can't figure 
  out what I need to do differently.
  
  Any help will be appreciated.
  Ed


Re: [RCSE] Help to sign up

2006-08-11 Thread Raschow
In a message dated 8/11/2006 7:38:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Neither of these were accepted so I can't  figure out what I need to do 
differently.


Make sure you send in plain text (not richtext or html).  Good  Lift!
 
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Re: [RCSE] Help !! ...

2006-02-12 Thread Steve Witt

On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hi All:

I signed up for this list and am getting everything in the individual  e-mail
mode ... I'd like to get a Digest if possible ...

Any suggestions ?? ...



To get the digest you must subscribe to the list using the digest option. 
My suggestion would be to unsubscribe from the list and then re-subscribe 
in digest mode.


Unsubscribe: Send email to soaring-request@airage.com with 'unsubscribe' 
(without the quotes) in the first line of the message


Subscribe Digest: Send email to soaring-request@airage.com with
'subscribe soaring digest' (without the quotes) as the first line of the
message.

Instructions for this can be found at 
http://www.eclipse.net/~mike/rcse/intro.digest.htm



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RE: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane

2005-10-07 Thread John L. Baird
It's an Aguila Grande


?
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RE: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane

2005-10-07 Thread John L. Baird
Sorry Vince I read 127 not 12' 7. 12' 7 would make it an Aguila XL

John

-Original Message-
From: Vince Herman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 8:49 AM
To: soaring@airage.com
Subject: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane

Sorry if this turns out to be a duplicate.  I posted
using the web page yesterday and the message did not
show up.  I am trying to post through email this time.

I recently purchased several large sailplanes from a
friend of a friend.  The lot originated from a pilot
who had passed away.  I want to gather information on
the sailplanes before I start playing with them, but I
do not recognize one of them.
The Bird of Time is easy to recognize, and the book
that came with the Mystery Ship makes ID easy.  But
the third sailplane is unknown to me.  It has a 12'7
wingspan, RES, fiberglass fuse.  Pictures available
here:
http://www.vinceherman.net/tempsailplane/IMG_3582.JPG
http://www.vinceherman.net/tempsailplane/IMG_3588.JPG

I can take more pictures or answer any questions on
the model to help.  Thanks in advance.
Vince

p.s.  To see the whole mess piled up in my garage,
alone with the transmitter, histarts, a NIB Bird of
Time kit and a 2 meter Spirit that I got from another
club member, go here:
http://www.vinceherman.net/tempsailplane/
I think I got a good deal.  :)

__
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Re: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane

2005-10-03 Thread Vince Herman
Thanks to all who responded.  After getting the Aquila
name, I was able to direct my research online.  The
Grande has a WS of a bit over 120.  The XL has 150,
so it looks like I have the XL.
I did get to do some test flights this weekend.  I
launched it with the histart for my 2 meter ships.  I
did not get much altitude, about 50 or 60 feet, but it
was enough to make some beautiful circuits around the
field.  I have thicker tubing designed for heavier
ships, but I need to get some line to attach to it.
Again, thanks for the help.  I'll start a new thread
to ask questions about the Mystery Ship and the BoT.
Vince



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RE: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane

2005-10-03 Thread Don Copley
Vince,
I have the Grande version I was gonna say the XL but others beat me to it. I
also use a hi-start on, you need a lot of pull to launch these birds. I
usually feel a good 20 lbs to 30 lbs pull or walk about 90 paces on my old
deluxe high start.

Don

-Original Message-
From: Vince Herman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 7:51 AM
To: soaring@airage.com
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane


Thanks to all who responded.  After getting the Aquila
name, I was able to direct my research online.  The
Grande has a WS of a bit over 120.  The XL has 150,
so it looks like I have the XL.
I did get to do some test flights this weekend.  I
launched it with the histart for my 2 meter ships.  I
did not get much altitude, about 50 or 60 feet, but it
was enough to make some beautiful circuits around the
field.  I have thicker tubing designed for heavier
ships, but I need to get some line to attach to it.
Again, thanks for the help.  I'll start a new thread
to ask questions about the Mystery Ship and the BoT.
Vince



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Re: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane

2005-10-02 Thread John Hayes
Vince,

Looks like your unknown sailplane is a nicely finished Aquila XL. I'm 
envious...

John Hayes


- Original Message - 
From: Vince Herman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring@airage.com
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 6:26 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Help with identifying sailplane


 I recently purchased several large sailplanes from a
 friend of a friend.  The lot originated from a pilot
 who had passed away.  I want to gather information on
 the sailplanes before I start playing with them, but I
 do not recognize one of them.
 The Bird of Time is easy to recognize, and the book
 that came with the Mystery Ship makes ID easy.  But
 the third sailplane is unknown to me.  It has a 12'7
 wingspan, RES, fiberglass fuse.  Pictures available
 here:
 http://www.vinceherman.net/tempsailplane/IMG_3582.JPG
 http://www.vinceherman.net/tempsailplane/IMG_3588.JPG

 I can take more pictures or answer any questions on
 the model to help.  Thanks in advance.
 Vince

 p.s.  To see the whole mess piled up in my garage,
 alone with the transmitter, histarts, a NIB Bird of
 Time kit and a 2 meter Spirit that I got from another
 club member, go here:
 http://www.vinceherman.net/tempsailplane/
 I think I got a good deal.  :)



 __
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Re: [RCSE] Help Plotting Airfoil

2005-08-09 Thread Thomas Koszuta

Glauco,

   You will need to divide all of the numbers by 100 and arrange them from 
TE (1., 0.), over the top (positive numbers) to the LE (0., 
0.), then under the bottom (negative numbers) back to the TE.


   Obviously, the regional settings will be very important.  The site you 
picked has the , as a decimal separator.  Make sure your software is 
either region aware, or you use the correct separator.


   I believe I  have all of the .dat files at home.  I will send  you one 
later, if it was in the airfoil pack from TraCFoil.


Tom Koszuta
Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers
Buffalo, NY


- Original Message - 
From: Glauco Lago [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: soaring soaring@airage.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 10:24 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Help Plotting Airfoil


Guys,

I put some wrinkles on my airplane wing and need to check the airfoil
before starting the sanding block work.

The airfoil is an HQ/W - 3,5/8 and the coordinates can be found here

http://www.hq-modellflug.de/koordinatenframe.htm

I want to plot the airfoil on Compufoil or TraCFoil but don't know how
to turn those coordinates into something readable by the softwares.
I know how to make .dat files but the coordinates are not the usual
1.  0.XX.

Thanks,

Glauco
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Re: [RCSE] Help Plotting Airfoil

2005-08-09 Thread Bill Conkling
The coordinates appear to be in normal fashion, starting with the Trailing
edge moving toward the LE.  The 'Y' values are upper and lower.

Compufoil should be able to handle it, but you might be able to put in a
file (.dat) to make it easier.  The 'X' values run from 100 to 0 %, just
enter in reverse to go from 0 to 100.  If you have a spreadsheet (Excel)
you can enter, and scale to any size needed and even plot to see what it
looks like.

Most programs I have used accept values as:

0.000,0.000
1.000,0.100



100.000,0.000
 for lower curve, and a similar list for the upper curve.




.bcAG4YQ  Williamsburg, VA




On Tue, 9 Aug 2005, Glauco Lago wrote:

 Guys,

 I put some wrinkles on my airplane wing and need to check the airfoil
 before starting the sanding block work.

 The airfoil is an HQ/W - 3,5/8 and the coordinates can be found here

 http://www.hq-modellflug.de/koordinatenframe.htm

 I want to plot the airfoil on Compufoil or TraCFoil but don't know how
 to turn those coordinates into something readable by the softwares.
 I know how to make .dat files but the coordinates are not the usual
 1.  0.XX.

 Thanks,

 Glauco
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Re: [RCSE] Help Plotting Airfoil

2005-08-09 Thread Glauco Lago
Hi all,

I got it now. Didn't know that each column on Helmut's web site was
for upper and lower surfaces.
By the way this is not the HQ 3,5/8 but the HQ/W 3,5/8. They look
similar but are not the same.

Thanks everyone.

Here are the  W coordinates.


1 0
0.99114 0.00228
0.97553 0.00623
0.95241 0.01175
0.92216 0.0183
0.89508 0.02379
0.85355 0.03143
0.80645 0.03934
0.75452 0.04729
0.69857 0.05467
0.65451 0.05947
0.60907 0.06393
0.54705 0.06897
0.5 0.07163
0.45295 0.07326
0.40631 0.0739
0.34549 0.07361
0.30143 0.0726
0.24548 0.0697
0.19355 0.06504
0.14645 0.05848
0.10492 0.05022
0.0545 0.036
0.02447 0.02353
0.01204 0.01607
0.00616 0.01096
0.00222 0.00622
0.00099 0.00414
0.00054 0.00325
0.00025 0.00252
0.6 0.00178
0.6 -0.0004
0.00025 -0.00079
0.00054 -0.00137
0.00099 -0.00194
0.00222 -0.00285
0.00616 -0.00397
0.01204 -0.00493
0.02447 -0.00635
0.0545 -0.00809
0.10492 -0.00936
0.14645 -0.00937
0.19355 -0.00879
0.24548 -0.00805
0.30143 -0.00709
0.34549 -0.00626
0.40631 -0.00467
0.45295 -0.00331
0.5 -0.00172
0.54705 -0.6
0.60907 0.00272
0.65451 0.00482
0.69857 0.00681
0.75452 0.0088
0.80645 0.0096
0.85355 0.00951
0.89508 0.00859
0.92216 0.00738
0.95241 0.00529
0.97553 0.00357
0.99114 0.00116
1 0

Glauco



On 8/9/05, Bill Conkling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 The coordinates appear to be in normal fashion, starting with the Trailing
 edge moving toward the LE.  The 'Y' values are upper and lower.
 
 Compufoil should be able to handle it, but you might be able to put in a
 file (.dat) to make it easier.  The 'X' values run from 100 to 0 %, just
 enter in reverse to go from 0 to 100.  If you have a spreadsheet (Excel)
 you can enter, and scale to any size needed and even plot to see what it
 looks like.
 
 Most programs I have used accept values as:
 
 0.000,0.000
 1.000,0.100
 
 
 
 100.000,0.000
  for lower curve, and a similar list for the upper curve.
 
 
 
 
 .bcAG4YQ  Williamsburg, VA
 
 
 
 
 On Tue, 9 Aug 2005, Glauco Lago wrote:
 
  Guys,
 
  I put some wrinkles on my airplane wing and need to check the airfoil
  before starting the sanding block work.
 
  The airfoil is an HQ/W - 3,5/8 and the coordinates can be found here
 
  http://www.hq-modellflug.de/koordinatenframe.htm
 
  I want to plot the airfoil on Compufoil or TraCFoil but don't know how
  to turn those coordinates into something readable by the softwares.
  I know how to make .dat files but the coordinates are not the usual
  1.  0.XX.
 
  Thanks,
 
  Glauco
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Re: [RCSE] Help Plotting Airfoil

2005-08-09 Thread Bill Swingle
Wow Glauco, I've plotted this foil just to take a look at it.
Gosh, it has quite a bit of camber!
Are others flying foils with this much camber?
It ought to be a floater for sure.

By the way, if you can open an AutoCAD file, I could just send you the file.

Bill Swingle
Janesville, CA



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Re: [RCSE] Help Plotting Airfoil

2005-08-09 Thread Glauco Lago
Well Bill, I don't know if I should tell what kind of floater is this
but you would be amazed that I use even more camber on thermals.

Maybe I should tell that Tom at F3X has some of these floaters and
that Rudy Siegel won  Cincinnati's contest this year with one.
By the way, reflex takes care of all that camber.

I got the foil now, thanks.

Glauco


On 8/9/05, Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Wow Glauco, I've plotted this foil just to take a look at it.
 Gosh, it has quite a bit of camber!
 Are others flying foils with this much camber?
 It ought to be a floater for sure.
 
 By the way, if you can open an AutoCAD file, I could just send you the file.
 
 Bill Swingle
 Janesville, CA
 
 
 

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Re: [RCSE] Help with Futaba 8U (FF8) and 5 channel receiver needed.

2005-07-26 Thread Phil Barnes
The primary problem is that you need to activate the aileron differential 
function before the Butterfly, START and SPEED mixes will work on the 
aileron channel. A more complete answer is here:


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=396543

Phil


- Original Message - 
From: Smiler [EMAIL PROTECTED],


I've read and thought I understood all the other threads about using the
Futaba 8 (not Super) with a 5 channel receiver, but I've still not got
the thing working properly

I've used GLID2FLP as recommended in Don's book.

Channels

1 Left aileron
2 Elevator
4 Rudder
5 Right Flap

PMIX

1 Ail-Rud 'On' Link 'Off' Trim 'Off'
2 Ail-CH5 'On' Link 'On' Trim 'On'
3 Rud-Ail 'On' Trim 'On'
4 Rud-Ch5 'On' Link 'Off' Trim 'Off' (As the rudder didn't move Ch5 even
with PMIX 2)

FLPTRM 'Inh'
Ai-Dif 'Inh' (I've done the Ail Dif using ATV and Ch5 using the PMIX
values)
BFLY 'Switch A' Ail 55 FLP 100 Ele -10 Dly 10 ABK 75
FLP-Ail 'On' 'Null' (Changing values here doesn't do a thing)
Ail-Flp 'On' -50 -100 'Null'
Ele-Flp 'Inh'
V-Tail 'Inh'
Start Ail 15 Ele 20 FLP2 -15 FLP1 0
Speed Ail 15 Ele 0 Flp2 -15 Flp1 0

Right, the problems.

When using BFLY only Ch5 operates the right aileron, nothing goes on
with the Ch1 left aileeron, which is exactly what happens with both
'Start' and 'Speed' nothing on the Ch1 left aileron.

Any ideas guys? (purlase!)

This is driving me made as the BFLY shows Master to be CH3 which is
throttle and slave to be channel 1, but changing the values doesn't do
anything.

Thanks, in anticipation.

Steve

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Re: [RCSE] help on CF Wing rod carrier.

2005-06-17 Thread Tom Broeski

Rick,
I made an Escape rod.  (Would buy one next time). It has two holes.  I had 
the polished rods 1 longer than the finished carbon rod and waxed them 
really well.  I vacuum formed a mold from a wood plug the width and height 
of the wing rod I wanted so I wouldn't have too much sanding.  It was the 
length of the aluminum rods.  I poured in some epoxy and laid in a layer of 
carbon tow a bit thicker than what the finished thickness would be to make 
up for the epoxy , put in the rods, forced in the tow around the sides and 
middle and put a wet layer on top.  I used West System epoxy.  It takes some 
time to get the tow pressed in.  I cut a piece of plastic slightly smaller 
than the mold opening and clamped everything to squish out as much epoxy as 
I could.  Once cured, I cut back the carbon ends on my bandsaw to about the 
length I needed  and  put the rod in a vise and took a punch and pounded out 
the aluminum rods.  Once they came loose they slipped out okay.   Really 
dusty sanding until I got smart and wet sanded it with my palm sander in the 
sink.  It finished nicely with 600 grit.


I think combining glass and carbon might not be good or necessary.  You 
don't want to have something weaker in spots.  Just use the carbon tow.


I also found out why they charge $40+ for one.  You'll have to figure what 
10+ hours of your time is worth (if you go to as much trouble as I did.) 
Solid rods, like tip rods on the Extreme and the ones for my SBXC, are much 
easier since you don't have to mess with an aluminum core.  Just lay in the 
mold and squish About a half hour per rod.



T



- Original Message - 
From: Richard L Bothell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: RCSE soaring@airage.com
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 12:34 AM
Subject: [RCSE] help on CF Wing rod carrier.


Please help.  I want to make a rectangular wing rod and wing rod carrier for 
a new 130 inch wing.  I have a piece of aluminum the exact size for my wing 
rod and I want to lay up layers of epoxie, glass, and carbon fiber around 
the aluminum.  Then let it cure and take out the aluminum rectangular rod. 
I will wax the rod and most likely spray PVA on it before the layup.  I will 
then use an Arizona hot box to cure it.   For non-Arizonans, just put it in 
a garage and turn on the air conditioning to regulate the temperature.  How 
do I remove the rectangular rod after the part has cured.  I know people 
wrap thin mylar around tapered rods but I have never heard about rectangular 
rods.   Thanks in Advance.


Rick Bothell, Prescott Valley, AZ
www.handsfreeretriever.com



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Re: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?

2005-05-22 Thread DUWorm




In a message dated 5/3/2005 3:18:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Sherman,In my case I am considering a large 4.5 meter (177) 
  scale sailplane. Thesailplanes wing uses six servos  three servos 
  per side. The wing isdesigned for three servos per side. (I 
  would prefer not using mechanicallinkages, and using software mixing 
  instead.) Thus the wing servos wouldoperate L  R flap, L  
  R inboard aileron, and L  R outboard/tip ailerons.I would like the 
  outboard ailerons to match the movement of the inboardailerons  but 
  possibly reduce the total travel of the outboard ailerons to60~80% travel 
  compared to the inboard ailerons. Depending on the 
  sailplanecharacteristics, e.g. adverse yaw, I may need to increase or 
  reduce thepercentage of mixing and the ratio of movement between the 
  outboard andinboard ailerons.Thank you,Cameron 
  Ninham

If you use all the dedicated mixes with the 9303, you have Three channels 
and nondedicated mixes available. It would be fairly simple to mix 
masteraileron to outboard aileron (Aux2?) and mirror image the same with 
right aileron. Soone mix for each side. that would allow you 
work those outboard ailerons,

For the master, select Ail+. This means that the dual rate, expo rate 
and trim settings of the aileron are mirrored to the outboard aileron. For 
slave, use, I believe Aux2 and Aux3. Mixes would allow you to have these 
turn on or off or to two separate mix rates depending on switch location. 


I have not actually done this on an airplane yet, (dont have any 6 servo 
wings to experement on) Please let me know what you finally come up with 
or if you have nay feedback to my comments. I an courious to find out if 
the differential settings of the ailerons are transferred to the outboard 
ailerons.

thanks again 

Sherman 
KnightThe Law Offices of Sherman L Knight5400 Carillon PointKirkland 
WA 98033425-576-4028 wk425-576-4029 fax425-822-9305 
hm[EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail


RE: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?

2005-05-22 Thread John Derstine









Another way is to use a
matchbox on the outer tiperons, which will allow you
to accomplish what you want, plus use only one additional channel, plus give
you the ability to mix the outer ailerons with various other control functions
such as rudder for example, at the flick of a switch.

JD





Endless Mountain Models

http://www.scalesoaring.com

email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]







-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 3:45 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED];
soaring@airage.com
Subject: Re: [RCSE] HELP: JR
XP9303 setup with six servo wing?







In a message dated 5/3/2005 3:18:46 PM
Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:





Sherman,

In my case I am considering a large 4.5 meter (177) scale sailplane. The
sailplanes wing uses six servos  three servos per side. The wing is
designed for three servos per side. (I would prefer not using mechanical
linkages, and using software mixing instead.) Thus the wing servos would
operate L  R flap, L  R inboard aileron, and L  R outboard/tip
ailerons.
I would like the outboard ailerons to match the movement of the inboard
ailerons  but possibly reduce the total travel of the outboard ailerons to
60~80% travel compared to the inboard ailerons. Depending on the
sailplane
characteristics, e.g. adverse yaw, I may need to increase or reduce the
percentage of mixing and the ratio of movement between the outboard and
inboard ailerons.

Thank you,

Cameron Ninham







If you use all the dedicated mixes with
the 9303, you have Three channels and nondedicated mixes available. It
would be fairly simple to mix masteraileron to outboard aileron (Aux2?)
and mirror image the same with right aileron. Soone mix for each
side. that would allow you work those outboard ailerons,











For the master, select Ail+. This
means that the dual rate, expo rate and trim settings of the aileron are
mirrored to the outboard aileron. For slave, use, I believe Aux2 and
Aux3. Mixes would allow you to have these turn on or off or to two
separate mix rates depending on switch location. 











I have not actually done this on an
airplane yet, (dont have any 6 servo wings to experement on) Please let
me know what you finally come up with or if you have nay feedback to my
comments. I an courious to find out if the differential settings of the
ailerons are transferred to the outboard ailerons.











thanks again 









Sherman
Knight
The Law Offices of Sherman L Knight
5400 Carillon Point
Kirkland WA 98033
425-576-4028 wk
425-576-4029 fax
425-822-9305 hm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail














Re: [RCSE] Help - JR 347 Instruction manual *********

2005-05-09 Thread Dan Kitching
Khan,
I don't know anything about your tranny, but I did find a manual
www.dankitching.com/jrx347.pdf
I'll leave it up for a couple of days, be sure to save it to your local 
PC/MAC.

Dan

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello:
 
I lost my manual for my JR 347.  Is there online manual available or 
maybe a  website with instructions?
 
Basically, my gliders have 4 servos in the wing and two in the fuse.  
need to program in 3 different flight modes, plus elevator to flap 
camber, crow, etc.
 
thank you in advance, davenport race is fast approaching and i need to 
dust off the racers
 
I Khan
 
 

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Re: [RCSE] Help - JR 347 Instruction manual *********

2005-05-09 Thread Mark Wales
I found this page on a search for Sherman Knight.
http://www.reddata.com/sass/soaring_info/tech.htm
Mark
Soaring Is Life!!


From: Dan Kitching [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring@airage.com
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Help - JR 347 Instruction manual  *
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 14:55:13 -0400
Khan,
I don't know anything about your tranny, but I did find a manual
www.dankitching.com/jrx347.pdf
I'll leave it up for a couple of days, be sure to save it to your local 
PC/MAC.

Dan

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello:
 I lost my manual for my JR 347.  Is there online manual available or 
maybe a  website with instructions?
 Basically, my gliders have 4 servos in the wing and two in the fuse.  
need to program in 3 different flight modes, plus elevator to flap camber, 
crow, etc.
 thank you in advance, davenport race is fast approaching and i need to 
dust off the racers
 I Khan


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Re: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?

2005-05-03 Thread DUWorm




In a message dated 5/3/2005 1:14:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have 
  not yet gone through the manual for the JR XP9303, but is it 
  possible(simple/easy) to program the XP9303 radio for a six servo wing -- 
  L  Rflap, L  R inboard aileron, and L  R outboard/tip 
  ailerons???Can I setup the inboard and outboard ailerons to move by 
  the same and/ordifferent amounts?



The answer is yes. However that is a very incomplete answer. 
What do you want the outboard aileron to do? Sounds like a stupid 
question, but it is not. What do you want the outboard Ail to do in lunch 
mode? Cruise Mode? Thermal Mode? Landing mode? It is 
easy to get the tiperons to follow the ailerons. If that is all you want, 
then why have them servo driven? Mechanical connection is much 
lighter. So, until you figure out what you want them to do, there is no 
way to answer the question. 

Sherman 
KnightThe Law Offices of Sherman L Knight5400 Carillon PointKirkland 
WA 98033425-576-4028 wk425-576-4029 fax425-822-9305 
hm[EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail


RE: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?

2005-05-03 Thread Cameron
Sherman,

In my case I am considering a large 4.5 meter (177”) scale sailplane.  The
sailplane’s wing uses six servos – three servos per side.  The wing is
designed for three servos per side.  (I would prefer not using mechanical
linkages, and using software mixing instead.)  Thus the wing servos would
operate L  R flap, L  R inboard aileron, and L  R outboard/tip ailerons.
I would like the outboard ailerons to match the movement of the inboard
ailerons – but possibly reduce the total travel of the outboard ailerons to
60~80% travel compared to the inboard ailerons.  Depending on the sailplane
characteristics, e.g. adverse yaw, I may need to increase or reduce the
percentage of mixing and the ratio of movement between the outboard and
inboard ailerons.

Thank you,

Cameron Ninham



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; soaring@airage.com
Subject: Re: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?

In a message dated 5/3/2005 1:14:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have not yet gone through the manual for the JR XP9303, but is it possible
(simple/easy) to program the XP9303 radio for a six servo wing -- L  R
flap, L  R inboard aileron, and L  R outboard/tip ailerons???

Can I setup the inboard and outboard ailerons to move by the same and/or
different amounts?
The answer is yes.  However that is a very incomplete answer.  What do you
want the outboard aileron to do?  Sounds like a stupid question, but it is
not.  What do you want the outboard Ail to do in lunch mode?  Cruise Mode? 
Thermal Mode?  Landing mode?  It is easy to get the tiperons to follow the
ailerons.  If that is all you want, then why have them servo driven? 
Mechanical connection is much lighter.  So, until you figure out what you
want them to do, there is no way to answer the question. 
 
Sherman Knight
The Law Offices of Sherman L Knight
5400 Carillon Point
Kirkland WA 98033
425-576-4028 wk
425-576-4029 fax
425-822-9305 hm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail


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RE: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?

2005-05-03 Thread John Derstine
Another way if you want or have independent spoiler control with top
mounted Schempp Hirth spoilers.
Use the flaperon wing type mix and couple inboard flaps to ailerons 30%
which is typical for scale ships, or up to 1:1 if you prefer. Program a
slider to activate the flaps for landing as a proportional trimmer.
Don't forget to decouple aileron flap mix in camber mode to prevent
overdriving the flap servos when using landing flaps. Use the left
flight mode switch for camber (or thermal flap}/ normal flight/ and
Reflex.
Now for the out board tiperons you have several options available as
used on full scale sailplanes.  I don't know what your model is so here
are two examples I have used. On a DG -1000 tips are coupled to the
rudder to prevent skidding in a turn and provide more rudder authority.
Left rudder actuates the left tiperon up 40 degrees or so while the
right tiperon stays neutral and visa versa. Alternately, you can couple
this same function to the aileron (left aileron left tip up right tip
neutral) and put the mix on a switch to change back and forth depending
on your flight requirements at any given time. This will give you two
distinct functions for the tiperons using only one channel. 
 To do this you will need to purchase a JR Matchbox and program each
tiperon using the matchbox and one channel, mixed then to either of the
other two functions mentioned.
The full scale Nimbus four uses this type of mixing also.
This will allow the spoilers to be placed on the throttle stick where
they belong as a glide path control device on landing similar to a
throttle in a power plane.

JD 

Endless Mountain Models
http://www.scalesoaring.com
email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

 -Original Message-
 From: Cameron [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 6:18 PM
 
 
 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:42 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; soaring@airage.com
 Subject: Re: [RCSE] HELP: JR XP9303 setup with six servo wing?
 
 In a message dated 5/3/2005 1:14:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 I have not yet gone through the manual for the JR XP9303, but is it
 possible
 (simple/easy) to program the XP9303 radio for a six servo wing -- L 
R
 flap, L  R inboard aileron, and L  R outboard/tip ailerons???
 
 Can I setup the inboard and outboard ailerons to move by the same
and/or
 different amounts?
 The answer is yes.  However that is a very incomplete answer.  What do
you
 want the outboard aileron to do?  Sounds like a stupid question, but
it is
 not.  What do you want the outboard Ail to do in lunch mode?  Cruise
 Mode?
 Thermal Mode?  Landing mode?  It is easy to get the tiperons to follow
the
 ailerons.  If that is all you want, then why have them servo driven?
 Mechanical connection is much lighter.  So, until you figure out what
you
 want them to do, there is no way to answer the question.
 
 Sherman Knight
 The Law Offices of Sherman L Knight
 5400 Carillon Point
 Kirkland WA 98033
 425-576-4028 wk
 425-576-4029 fax
 425-822-9305 hm
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] e-mail
 
 
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subscribe
 and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Please note
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format
 with MIME turned off.  Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail
and
 AOL are generally NOT in text format

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Re: [RCSE] help

2005-04-04 Thread miamimike
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

help

Jeff, that was supposed to be sent to [EMAIL PROTECTED], not to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] If you send it there, here's what you'll get back:

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Re: [RCSE] Help identifying a glider

2004-10-04 Thread Charles Frey

Opps, sorry, I was repsonding to a related, but different email..
disregard.

-charles

On Mon, 4 Oct 2004, Dan Neelands wrote:

 All,

 Could someone please ID the glider shown at

 http://www.rockisland.com/~neelands/9-4-2004%20%20145.jpg

 http://www.rockisland.com/~neelands/9-4-2004%20%20149.jpg

 http://www.rockisland.com/~neelands/9-4-2004%20142.JPG


 A guest at our field asked me about this and I'm not up on RES models.
 Thanks!
 Dan N.
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Re: [RCSE] Help identifying a glider

2004-10-04 Thread Steve Meyer


It's an Electric Glider. RES does not allow power assist.
At 08:14 AM 10/4/2004, Dan Neelands wrote:
All,

Could someone please ID the glider shown at

http://www.rockisland.com/~neelands/9-4-2004%20%20145.jpg

http://www.rockisland.com/~neelands/9-4-2004%20%20149.jpg

http://www.rockisland.com/~neelands/9-4-2004%20142.JPG

A guest at our field asked me about this and I'm not
up on RES models.
Thanks!
Dan N.



Re: [RCSE] Help with a link for CNC service.

2004-01-28 Thread Tom Broeski
Eric Farmer can help you
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
TG http://adesigner.com
32 Mount View Dr
Afton, VA  22920
phone 540 943-3356
fax  540 943-4178
- Original Message -
From: Scobie Puchtler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: RCSE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 11:41 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Help with a link for CNC service.


 Hello guys,
 Was it this list where someone had posted a link to an online cnc
machining
 service?
 It was a website with a 3-D part design interface that let you design and
 loft a part, and then basically order that part to be machined and sent to
 you directly, made in whatever material you chose from a menu.

 I know there are plenty of 'part quote' CNC services, but this link was
the
 closest I've ever seen to a one stop
 design-your-part-and-order-it-in-one-step type service.

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RE: [RCSE] Help with launch attitude - OR - What happened to me when I tried

2003-12-26 Thread Jack Strother
Jim,
You are right..
Obviously more memorable for some, than others
J

At 12:15 PM 12/26/2003, James V. Bacus wrote:
At 07:38 AM 12/26/2003, Jack Strother wrote:
You are correct..it is a rite of passage, of some sort..
I remember Capn's rite of passage on his first F3J two man tow in 
Muncie...   Daryl ('move that freekin' hook all the way back') Perkins was 
there, a new red Cobra was there, Johnny and the strongest towers at 
Nats... an audience of the Nats pilots present...  and a video camera.

ROFL

That's all I need to say,
Jim
Jim
Downers Grove, IL
Member of the Chicago SOAR club,  AMA 592537LSF 7560 Level IV
ICQ: 6997780   AIM: InventorJim   R/C Soaring blog at www.jimbacus.net
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RE: [RCSE] Help with launch attitude - OR - What happened to me when I tried

2003-12-26 Thread James V. Bacus
The tape was destroyed after we saw what we captured, we determined that 
this memory was only for the people who actually saw it happen live.  Jack 
may tell you the story sometime, but it won't be on this forum!  It's one 
of those things you have to be at Nats to understand, and I know you know 
what I mean when I say that.  8-))





At 03:12 PM 12/26/2003, Sheldon - YNT uDesign wrote:
Where can I get a copy of that footage I just gotta see it!!! G
Jim
Downers Grove, IL
Member of the Chicago SOAR club,  AMA 592537LSF 7560 Level IV
ICQ: 6997780   AIM: InventorJim   R/C Soaring blog at www.jimbacus.net
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Re: [RCSE] Help with launch attitude - throw the plane up or straight ahead

2003-12-24 Thread Rick Eckel
The 'right' answer to this question is really very pilot dependent.  The 
horizontal launch method is where everyone should start as its the most 
forgiving for poor throws and incorrect plane setup.  If you have any 
question about your ability (or a student's ability) to launch, the 
straight ahead horizontal throw is the most likely to succeed.

Having said that we now can move on to more advanced techniques for those 
who have a good plane setup and good winch/highstart control.  A more nose 
up attitude will rotate the plane quicker to vertical and leave more length 
in the line for the climb.  The argument now is whether its better to stand 
on the pedal all the way up to get off the line fast and with speed or 
whether to pulse the winch and let the plane kite to altitude.  Which is 
better I do not know.  I do know how I do it and I'm happy.

Extreme launches practiced in F3B and F3J are best left to the experts 
unless you just must have the ultimate.  In both of these cases 
monofilament line is used which stores much more energy than our nylon 
winch line or any high start you'd care to pull back.  In these cases the 
energy is stored just prior to release and the object is to maintain that 
stored energy until just before the moment the plane releases from the line 
so that the energy goes into the airplane as speed..  Therefore these 
launches are at very high angles of attack so that the wing provides 
maximum lift to retain the stored energy until the zoom.

Launching is an art that requires excellent plane setup, a lot of 
experience and a lot of confidence.  Each pilot has to use the technique 
that matches his skills and there is no 'one size fits all'.

Hope this helps.
Rick


At 09:04 AM 12/24/2003, stuarthall_ct wrote:
At RCUniverse, on the thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1296951/mpage_1/anchor/tm.htm#13740
22
there is a debate about whether to launch a plane with a throw
horizontally, allowing the power of the winch and placement of the
tow hook to rotate the plane, vs. launching the plane already
rotated e.g. throw the plane upward. In the two contests I have been
to where there were winches most often I saw people launching with
effort with the plane already inclined upward.  Some throwing the
plane between 45 and 70 degrees from horizontal, many achieving what
looked to be very respectable launches.
In the interest of learning to launch correctly, rather than having
to relearn, it being much more difficult to unlearn poor habits, I'd
like to know the opinion of the RCSE crew.
Thanks!

p.s. this might be not applicable to me most of the time right now
as I fly off a heavy duty histart with a 40 ounce 2M foamie
Highlander and most often the plane gets virtually ripped from my
hands regardless of how I throw anyway. I'd still like to know
however.
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Re: [RCSE] Help with launch attitude - throw the plane up or straight ahead

2003-12-24 Thread Tom Watson
At the beginning of last season I forced myself to learn the latter (hold
plane under/in front of wing saddle and throw upward).  Much better launches
and I feel more confident of the ability to recover from a broken line early
in the launch.

Tom


- Original Message - 
From: stuarthall_ct [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2003 6:04 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Help with launch attitude - throw the plane up or straight
ahead


 there is a debate about whether to launch a plane with a throw
 horizontally, allowing the power of the winch and placement of the
 tow hook to rotate the plane, vs. launching the plane already
 rotated e.g. throw the plane upward.

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Re: [RCSE] HELP ON Bob Martin's SR-7

2003-11-28 Thread billyb2u2000
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Keith Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I am in hopes someone might be able to assist me! I am in need of a 
plan set, and the construction article of Bob Martin's 
 SR-7. I am expecting to pay for a complete plan set. Your help 
would be appreciated 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Keith

  I think I have a set of plans at the bottom of one pile or another. 
If I find it I could copy it and send it to you if that would help.


Joe

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Re: [RCSE] Help me help a new guy

2003-10-31 Thread jgleigh
Polecataero WindDancer.

http://www.polecataero.com/



 
 From: James V. Bacus [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2003/10/30 Thu PM 12:01:59 EST
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [RCSE] Help me help a new guy
 
 I just received this email, can you guys help me steer this gentleman in 
 the right direction for what he wants?  It's been about 25+ years since I 
 was putting Cox powerpods on my balsa built ups.  8-)  (This guy wants ARF)
 
 Hi Jim,
 
 I saw your column in Model Aviation and am hoping you can recommend an ARF 
 powered glider.  I live in upstate New York and am in my second year with 
 the RC hobby.  I have a trainer and a Tower Kaos.  My main interest is 
 powered sport planes but I want to pick up a powered glider for relaxation 
 (no aielerons is best for relaxing I am told).   I am not interested right 
 now in high start or slope soaring, just powering to altitude and soaring.
 
 I noticed the Kyosho Ciero, Great Planes Spectra, and the Thunder Tiger 
 Windstar.  Also looking at the 117 Bird of Time and adding a small glow 
 engine.  Thanks to your website link I see that Northeast Sailplanes has a 
 ton of choices also.  I would like at least a 78 wingspan.
 
 Thanks Jim for any ideas you may have.
 
 Mark Larsen
 
 
 Jim
 Downers Grove, IL
 Member of the Chicago SOAR club,  AMA 592537LSF 7560 Level IV
 ICQ: 6997780   AIM: InventorJim   R/C Soaring blog at www.jimbacus.net
 
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RE: [RCSE] Help me help a new guy

2003-10-31 Thread Fred A. Sheplavy
Why not a Hanger 9 electric Aspire?  Great starter for powered soaring.
Inexpensive and none of the mess you get with wet power.
Fred


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RE: [RCSE] Help with dead links

2003-02-01 Thread JMiller
Andrew,
  Just checked those you listed, LaserArts, Major Hobbies, and EzCalc are
working the others are not.

Jerry Miller
SOSS-Medford, OR

-Original Message-
From: Andrew E. Mileski [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 4:27 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [RCSE] Help with dead links


Going through my bookmark collection:
   http://isoar.ca/~andrewm/bkmks/
and I discovered these links appear dead:
   Bludartar http://www.bludartar.com/
   Laser Artshttp://www.laserartco.com/  (geocities address works)
   Major Hobby   http://www.majorhobby.com/
   Sobox Planes  http://www.soboxplanes.com/
   ezCalchttp://custompaintjob.com/ezcalc/dma.asp
   Trojanhttp://www.trojan-battery.com/
If you know where they have moved, or if they have been removed, please
let me know.  Thanks.

On a happy note, the following link was marked as dead the last time I
checked, but is working again:
   http://www.fmsg-alling.de/vtail.htm
An excellent page on V-tail aerodynamics.

--
Andrew E. Mileski
Ottawa, Canada
http://isoar.ca

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Re: [RCSE] Help with dead links

2003-02-01 Thread Andrew E. Mileski
Andrew E. Mileski wrote:

Going through my bookmark collection:
   http://isoar.ca/~andrewm/bkmks/
and I discovered these links appear dead:
   Bludartar http://www.bludartar.com/
   Laser Artshttp://www.laserartco.com/  (geocities address works)
   Major Hobby   http://www.majorhobby.com/
   Sobox Planes  http://www.soboxplanes.com/
   ezCalchttp://custompaintjob.com/ezcalc/dma.asp
   Trojanhttp://www.trojan-battery.com/
If you know where they have moved, or if they have been removed, please
let me know.  Thanks.


It seems Laser Arts, Major Hobby, and Sobox Planes were temporarily 
unreachable for me, but are back now.

EzCalc (electric motor calculator web app) and Trojan are still 
unreachable by me and several others.

There was one report that Bludartar has closed up shop.

Thanks to everyone for there help!

--
Andrew E. Mileski
Ottawa, Canada
http://isoar.ca

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Re:[RCSE] Help with dead links

2003-02-01 Thread acintspec
Soboxplanes.com is up





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Re: [RCSE] help with a hi start link

2003-01-18 Thread Rick Van Clief
At 08:23 AM 1/19/03 -0700, you wrote:

A while back there was a post about hi starts.  Someone put out a link that
had some info on figuring the pounds of pull needed for a given size a/c.
If anyone remembers this, I'd appreciate the link.  I've searched the
archives and google just can't seem to find it.



Hi Charlie,

Responding on-line in case someone else might like to know - hope you don't 
mind.

Rich Hollyday used to sell some really good hi-starts (I own one) and, 
although he doesn't anymore, still maintains his site with a lot of info on 
it.  Try http://www.hollyday.com/rich/hd/sailplanes/high-starts.htm  On the 
left under the flag are several areas of interest to select from and within 
some of them are links elsewhere.  The one at the Charles River site is 
particularly good as is everything else there.  Aerofoam picked up the 
hi-start line Rich used to carry - try http://www.aerofoam.com/hosemonster.html

Hope this helps.

RVC

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RE: [RCSE] Help - 2A2FER(V-tail) Infinity 660

2002-10-17 Thread Howard Mark
Been there - done that.

NO - you CAN'T program it for flaps on 2 channels - read the manual!
What you can do is get a servo reverser for the other flap and a
Y-connector.

Another thing you can't do -

Have BOTH launch flaps and landing without using an alternate model and now
HALF of your model memory for 2 of 4 models!

To get launch flaps the BEST solution is to go ahead and use another model
and set the flaps on that model in the launch position.
Use the ALT MODEL switch to select that model for launch.
When out of launch mode (ALT MODEL) the flaps are operated off the throttle
lever as usual.






-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:Winch.RP;forces.gc.ca]
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 2:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [RCSE] Help - 2A2FER(V-tail) Infinity 660


I can't find a way to activate the second flap!  I can gang them together on
the same channel but then I have to mount one of them asymmetrically (i.e.
facing the same way).  I really don't want to hack an larger hole in the
wing to do this.  Come on guys, somebody must have figured this out.

Phil in Vancouver 
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Re: [RCSE] Help - 2A2FER(V-tail) Infinity 660

2002-10-17 Thread Ed Jett
I think that the new JR Matchbox will fix you right up.  End point adjust
and servo reversing plus some other features.  Pricey, but better than
having to cough up money for another TX.  Available from Horizon Hobbies and
other distributors for $69, if I recall correctly.

Maxx Products has a wye adapter with a servo reverser built into one leg for
about $15.  That might work for you too.

I'm in the same situation with a Futaba Super 7 and I'm trying the Maxx
Products solution first.

Regards,
Ed Jett
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 3:57 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Help - 2A2FER(V-tail) Infinity 660


 I can't find a way to activate the second flap!  I can gang them together
on
 the same channel but then I have to mount one of them asymmetrically (i.e.
 facing the same way).  I really don't want to hack an larger hole in the
 wing to do this.  Come on guys, somebody must have figured this out.

 Phil in Vancouver
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Re: [RCSE] help with my next plane.

2002-09-04 Thread Lincoln Ross

see below
 Brian Stutters wrote:
 
  i'm looking to move up (or laterally) to another
  plane. my current spirit is not only fairly well
  destroyed, but has been a pain in the ass the entire
  way.
I can understand that! Yuck!

 i want to stay in the 2m RES area,
not the greatest idea as even a little larger is much nicer
 
so i've been
  considering these options:
 
snip
  c) nsp's kestrel 2m. seems nice enough and i like the
  idea of laser cut parts.

I flew an early version or maybe it was a prototype and it flew very
well. I haven't heard the greatest things about the quality of the kit. 

Isn't there a short kit of the Sagitta 600? A little obsolete in some
sense, but a very nice flyer nonetheless, and you won't have the old
problem of telling yours apart from the other 5 in the same thermal. If
you build one keep the tail as light as you can and maybe reinforce the
fuse just a tad around the front of the fin.

If I was in that market I might be tempted to try a Laser Arts Jester,
but I don't know how it flies or whether it's any good. Just looks like
it might be good.

Of course if you're ready to do a lot of work there's the Allegro Lite,
but that's a heavy duty project!
 
  lots of people have been telling me to step up to a
  100 plane, but my hi-start is for 2m and it would be
  difficult to fit larger wings in my car, so that's out
  of the question...for now at least.

Some 100 aren't very heavy, and most have two part wings. If you can't
fit 50 wing halves you must be sharing a Messerschmidt tandem car with
another flyer. Dynaflite used to have a 100 plane which I think was
pretty light called the Apogee, but again I don't know how it flew, plus
I don't know if you can get one. Maybe would high start on 2M ok. The
Oly 2 is very nice but slow, and if a high start can launch a Spirit I
bet it can do as well for a light Oly 2. Laser Arts has a 100 plane but
I don't know what it's like. An Oly 2 made with a fully d tubed S3021
wing would probably be great. There's a short kit out there for the
Sagitta 900, but I've never flown one, or at least not for long. I think
people used to like them.
snip
-- 
Lincoln Ross
NOTE ADDRESS CHANGE:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [RCSE] help with my next plane.

2002-09-03 Thread Art Mcnamee

Hi Brian,
 The Lil Dork is a good 2M plane but needs a larger stab.
Another good 2M is the Ruby. It also needs a larger stab and is very good. I and my
brother fly both and like them. An Addiction is an exceptional open class. 4 break LE
bu Fred Sage is the way to go. I have owned several of them and still own one now.
Any ?? type or call me 805-526-6292.
Thermals Art

Brian Stutters wrote:

 i'm looking to move up (or laterally) to another
 plane. my current spirit is not only fairly well
 destroyed, but has been a pain in the ass the entire
 way. i want to stay in the 2m RES area, so i've been
 considering these options:

 a) finding a 2m gnome kit (which i gather are hard to
 come by these days).  i flew one the other day and i
 was very impressed (especially after flying a spirit
 for the last couple of months).

 b) skybench's 2m lil bird. i'm a sucker for
 appearances, and i really like how the bird family of
 planes look.

 c) nsp's kestrel 2m. seems nice enough and i like the
 idea of laser cut parts.

 lots of people have been telling me to step up to a
 100 plane, but my hi-start is for 2m and it would be
 difficult to fit larger wings in my car, so that's out
 of the question...for now at least.

 if anyone who's flown/owned any of the three planes
 mentioned above would be willing to email me
 (off-list, so as not to clog things up) regarding your
 impressions of the planes, bad tendencies, things to
 watch out for, etc, i would REALLY REALLY REALLY
 appreciate it.

 thank you much.

 brian

 =
 ..
 ..
 ..

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Re: [RCSE] help with my next plane.

2002-09-02 Thread Andrew E. Mileski

Brian Stutters wrote:
 b) skybench's 2m lil bird. i'm a sucker for
 appearances, and i really like how the bird family of
 planes look. 

Given that it is a laser cut kit, supported extremely well,  I've
never heard one bad comment about it, and there are LOTS of them flown
at our club field, I'd say it is an ideal choice.

If you want something fancier looking, try the Laser Arts Soverign.
It is also laser cut, but a pod-and-boom v-tail, so there is less to
construct.

 lots of people have been telling me to step up to a
 100 plane, but my hi-start is for 2m and it would be
 difficult to fit larger wings in my car, so that's out
 of the question...for now at least.

I have a Pontiac Sunfire 4dr.  Thank goodness the rear seat folds down
exposing an opening to the trunk.  One piece 2m and twho piece 3m wings
are possible :)

Note: 3 piece 3m wings are about the same size as a two piece 2m wing :)

-- 
Andrew E. Mileski
Ottawa, Canada

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Re: [RCSE] help with my next plane.

2002-09-02 Thread Mark Miller

another good flyer is the 2 meter Mistral. Check it
out on my web site.

Mark
http://www.isthmusmodels.com


--- Brian Stutters [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 i'm looking to move up (or laterally) to another
 plane. my current spirit is not only fairly well
 destroyed, but has been a pain in the ass the entire
 way. i want to stay in the 2m RES area, so i've been
 considering these options:
 
 a) finding a 2m gnome kit (which i gather are hard
 to
 come by these days).  i flew one the other day and i
 was very impressed (especially after flying a spirit
 for the last couple of months).
 
 b) skybench's 2m lil bird. i'm a sucker for
 appearances, and i really like how the bird family
 of
 planes look. 
 
 c) nsp's kestrel 2m. seems nice enough and i like
 the
 idea of laser cut parts.
 
 lots of people have been telling me to step up to a
 100 plane, but my hi-start is for 2m and it would
 be
 difficult to fit larger wings in my car, so that's
 out
 of the question...for now at least.
 
 if anyone who's flown/owned any of the three planes
 mentioned above would be willing to email me
 (off-list, so as not to clog things up) regarding
 your
 impressions of the planes, bad tendencies, things to
 watch out for, etc, i would REALLY REALLY REALLY
 appreciate it.
 
 thank you much.
 
 brian
 
 =
 ..
 ..
 ..
 
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Re: [RCSE] HELP! - TopFlite Metrick

2001-12-21 Thread Anker Berg-Sonne

Brian,

The Metric flies horribly unless you increase the dihedral. I built one in
the 80s because it looked so good and was deeply disappointed.

Anker
- Original Message -
From: Brian Joder - OUTBOUND Ind. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 2:43 AM
Subject: [RCSE] HELP! - TopFlite Metrick


 Hello Anyone,

 I'm just back into the r/c soaring stuff after 20 some
 years... anyway I just finished my TopFlite Metrick
 that had been 95% finished and stored away since 1981.
 (I bought this at the time since I could only dream of
 owning a Hobie Hawk - I was 17 then!)

 I would like to connect with anyone who has any
 experience with one of these birds. I built mine with
 the spoilers.

 I think at the time it was supposed to be a pretty
 hi-perf plane... but not to todays standard I'm sure.

 In particular if you have anything on what the throw
 of the rudder and elevator should be.

 Also, What are the flying characteristics?

 Anything would be helpful... is there a vintage
 class I can fly in???!!!

 Thanks,

 Brian Joder
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [RCSE] Help

2001-11-09 Thread Mike Bailey

At 2 thick you can use straping tape to strengthen the fuselage. At 1.5
you will need to add additional support. I would run carbon tube or basswood
longerons from the tail to about 2 from the nose on both sides.
Mike

- Original Message -
From: Marcio [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mike Bailey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Help


 Thanks Mike, but do you think that if I make it 1.6 will it
 be too fragile or will have any other problems?

 Marcio

 On Fri, 9 Nov 2001 07:59:28 -0600
 Mike Bailey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 As narrow as possible. Most of the combat warbirds have a
 width of about 2.
 This makes them semi-scale but they have less drag and
 better performance.
 The more scale fueslages still fly good but for combat you
 will be happier
 with the better performance.
 Mike
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Marcio [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 6:55 AM
 Subject: [RCSE] Help
 
 
  Hi!
  Please somebody help me!
  I'm making a Foamie Combat Warbird (like these ones:
  http://www.davesaircraftworks.com/combat.htm), that has
 48
  wingspan and 35 lenght. Anyone knows which would be a
 good
  width for the fuselage?
 
  Thanks!
 
  Marcio
  
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Re: [RCSE] Help with Obechi sheeted wings!!

2001-07-14 Thread jim larkin

Mark  Might be easier to shim the fuse with balsa, then cover it with thin
fiberglass cloth.   ??  Jim
- Original Message -
From: Mark Wales [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 4:42 AM
Subject: [RCSE] Help with Obechi sheeted wings!!



 I recently bought a pre-sheeted Anthem (hi Jerry)from someone I meet off
of
 RCSE. The wings are wonderful, but the only problem is that whoever
sheeted
 the wings did not cut and sand the angle into the root core where it meets
 the fuse.
 What would be the best way to get this angle cut or sanded into the root
of
 the core.

 Thanks

 Mark Wales
 _
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Re: [RCSE] Help finding long pushrods.

2001-04-23 Thread Wwing

In a message dated 04/23/2001 7:51:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Hello All,
  
  I am trying to rig my new Omega 3 F3J. The pushrods it came with from Sal 
 were not long enough,
  48 it needs 54. 
  
  The brass plated SS. that Sal put in the box was nice stuff but too short. 
 Sal sent me some 
  un-plated SS but it seems too flexible and changes length with compression 
 and tension
  and also doesn't fit in the pre-installed tubes at .062 dia. Where do I 
get 
 good .056 dia.
  brass plated SS or any good material in .056 dia? Lots of people seem to 
 have 48
  length but what about longer. How good is carbon fiber and is it available 
 in .056 and 54 long.
  
  
  Thanks!
  Del Schier
  K1UHF

I just recently had this problem for a fuselage that needed long pushrods. I 
ended up splicing carbon rods together by using a short length of brass tube 
as a coupler, CA'ing and crimping the ends in place. I cut the plastic sleeve 
and determined how much movement was needed for the surface actuation and 
separated the resultant two pieces by that distance, plus a little for good 
measure. I then joined the sleeves together using a larger diameter tube 
which allowed the brass coupler to slide inside of it, and still have the 
pushrod supported through its entire length. If you arrange to keep these 
couplers forward of the CG rather that behind it, it'll be that much less 
weight you'll have to compensate for with nose weight.

Bill Wingstedt
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RE: [RCSE] help

2001-04-19 Thread Kerry Cochrell

http://www.adesigner.com/brass.htm

 anybody got the url for BRASS
 

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Re: [RCSE] help find the salmon ad (off topic)

2001-01-04 Thread Karlton Spindle

I have it

Smooth Sailing,
Karlton Spindle
http://www.MultiplexRC.com
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: [RCSE] help find the salmon ad (off topic)


 I saw a reference to "the salmon ad" a cuople of weeks ago but wasn't able
to
 view it until yesterday - now no longer have the site address or how to
 download the movie.but it is so funny I want to share it with
friends

 could someone help me via back channel with this 

 Thanx.

 Jimbo in NM
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RE: [RCSE] Help with AutoCad

2000-12-11 Thread Walba, Rick

I never tried it,  I don't know for sure if acad13 can accept bmp files, but
I would think so because it can do rendering. It can accept dxf files.
Unfortunately I lent my manuals out and drafting is closed right now. I'll
see what I can find, but there are some Acad heavyweights out there on the
exchange who should answer this.

Rick



 -Original Message-
 From: S Madjanovich [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2000 11:55 AM
 To: soaring mailing list; RC Ducted Fans and Jets; E Flight mailing list
 Subject: [RCSE] Help with AutoCad
 
 
 I am trying to import a scanned image into AutoCad. I am trying to import
 a
 scanned image of  an aircraft drawing. I can scan the image and save it in
 a
 variety of formats. When I try to import or open the image AutoCad will
 not
 do so. I am using AutoCad LT 98 and AutoCad R13. If any of you have
 experience and can hold my hand step by step through the proceedure it
 would
 be greatly appreciated.
 
 Stephen
 Ontario
 Canada
 
 
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Re: [RCSE] Help - rubber lube

2000-11-12 Thread Jim Porter

 A quicker/simpler/more available alternative is Armor All or one of the
similar preservative/protectant compounds usually---

DO NOT use Armor All if you want your rubber motors to last.  As the
material dries it attaches to the surface of the rubber and generates a
harder, somewhat inflexible surface.  Ed Harris and I discoverd this a
number of years ago when we used it on a high start rubber.  About two weeks
after the application the tube started to surface crack and within four
weeks the high start was worthless.

Jim Porter
Bettendorf, Iowa  USA

"The airplane stays up because it doesn't have the time to fall."
 Orville Wright



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Re: [RCSE] Help! I keep loosing my trainer chords!

2000-07-24 Thread Rick Brown and Jill Wiest

The English language is dying. It's being butchered to death.

robert k scott wrote:
 
 Does anyone know why many people are suddenly having a problem with
 homonyms?
 
 Does anyone have any ideas what's causing this?
 
 -robert
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Re: [RCSE] Help! I keep loosing my trainer chords!

2000-07-24 Thread Adam Till

Not that this is purely soaring-related, but it's better than snarling at 
each other over RX/TX techno-bits! But sure, that's an easy one to answer.
It's basically been the advent of the computer, especially lately with the 
increasing popularity of the Internet and email-based communication. Just 
think about what computers provide for us:

Spell check: allows people to just "get in the ballpark" before a quick 
right-click settles things right again. Why bother to learn to spell if 
you'll always have a checker to do it for you? Some high-schools are even 
allowing provicial-level exams in English and Social Studies to be written 
on a processor.

Email: You only have to look at a list like this, informal as it might be, 
to see that it is easy to get into the habit of being lazy when writing. A 
lot of posts here have no semblance of grammar or structure (eg. ALL IN 
CAPS), and a few don't even bother with punctuation (I find such posts 
especially frustrating to read).

Forgive my sounding like a technophobe, but that's just the way I see it. I 
think a lot of the problem comes with people not taking much time to read 
anymore, as well.

Just my thoughts...

Cheers,
Adam

From: "robert k scott" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [RCSE] Help! I keep loosing my trainer chords!
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 00:10:36 -0700

Does anyone know why many people are suddenly having a problem with
homonyms?


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Re: [RCSE] Help! I keep loosing my trainer chords!

2000-07-24 Thread Harley Michaelis

Good observations, Robert. Just off-hand, I think there is a deteriorating
regard for proper use of the language and inattention to errors being made,
particularly among younger people. This is partly the fault of the
educational system which doesn't want to stifle a student's imagination and
creativity by correcting his/her spelling. 

Perhaps some people do not differentiate between "chord" and "cord",
"losing" and "loosing", "there" and "their", "ailrons" and "ailerons",
"don't" and "doesn't", etc. or just plain do not care. On occasion, I have
called errors to the attention of the "offenders" when the misuse is
flagrant, repetitious and borders on the annoying. This is offered in a
spirit of being helpful, rather than critical. Usually, a thankful response
will follow, although some get defensive. 

However, it is very easy to see only what we intended to write or thought
we wrote, rather than what we actually did. I often find I have failed to
edit out some errors after I reread something I've sent off, so have to
realize it can happen to others, too. 

--
 From: robert k scott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [RCSE] Help! I keep loosing my trainer chords!
 Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 12:10 AM
 
 Does anyone know why many people are suddenly having a problem with
 homonyms? I've been noticing this in both print media and on the
 web/usenet/email. I can understand the chord/cord thing to an extent;
 'chord' IS basically jargon unless you are an aerospace engineer of some
 sort, but 'cord' as in 'a trainer cord' isn't, really- its a common
everyday
 term, and is used a lot more than 'chord' which is for airfoils and
stringed
 musical instruments. You would think people would make the mistake the
other
 way 'round, and in the case of wings, most hard info we see is in PRINT,
so
 the people making these mistakes should have been spelling the way they
 learned the word and making pronunciation errors. It baffles me how 2
 homonyms can be confused when no one is pronouncing the words!
 
 I'm not just picking on people posting to mailing lists here. I've
recently
 caught Time magazine stating that Russia was still loosing the space
race.
 
 Does anyone have any ideas what's causing this?
 
 -robert
 
 
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Re: [RCSE] Help! I keep loosing my trainer chords!

2000-07-24 Thread Bob Pope

Maybe its dew to son flares, or earthquacks or maybe its. I
here my Tx battery beeping, must be lowe voteage, got to go.

robert k scott wrote:
 
 Does anyone know why many people are suddenly having a problem with
 homonyms? 
 Does anyone have any ideas what's causing this?
 
 -robert
 

-- 
Remember, if you think nobody cares, try missing a couple of
payments.

Bob Pope
Laguna Hills, CA
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Re: [RCSE] Help w/ Javelin, 8AUF: THANKS!

2000-05-03 Thread Floete

Wow, what an outpouring of suggestions and help -- this is the greatest 
newsgroup, I swear!
   Anyway, thanks to ya'll, I'm about 95% of the way to solving my problem, 
so I don't need to get a new RX or a new TX, nor do I need to sell my Javelin.
   I think everything's going to be okay now.
   Whew!
   Best to all,
   Erik
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Re: [RCSE] HELP! epoxy experts needed

2000-02-13 Thread Tom Broeski

Bruce,
Yes, one to one meant using a 5 to 1 pump.  Since you went beyond the catalytic stage 
with too much hardener, there is little you can do unless you can put it in an over or 
hot box and 100+ degrees.  This may work, but the results may not be satisfactory.
If it can still be dissolved with rubbing alcohol, you can carefully try and wipe it 
off.
Use lots of alcohol soaked rags or paper towels and work slowly.  The time it takes 
may far exceed the cost of a new wing.
If not, in my opinion there is nothing you can do.  I have tried, and it is a real 
mess.
Tom
Bruce Beddoe wrote:

 I bagged a pair of wings and a stab 2 days ago.  They are plywood
 sheeted foam that I put glass over.  This was the first time I had
 used West Systems Epoxy and the directions said to mix 1:1.  When it
 was still not very hard today, I carefully read the directions which
 said if you don't have the special pumps for the cans, then mix 5:1 by
 weight or volume.

 1)  Is there any way to get the mess to harden.  It doesn't have to be
 full strength, since the ply is pretty strong anyway.  If baking or
 something might get rid of or harden the excess hardener, obviously
 this would be preferred.

 2)  If the mess has to come off, how do I get it off the wood without
 dissolving the foam?

 I sure hope someone has some brilliant ideas.  Thanks.

 Bruce Beddoe
 Pacific Palisades, CA
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--
Tom Broeski -- Afton, VA

TG Exhibits  (Exhibit and Prototype Design)
http://www.adesigner.com
TG Hobbies  (Home of the "Quote")
http://www.adesigner.com/hobbies.htm
BRASS (Blue Ridge Area Soaring Society)
http://www.adesigner.com/brass.htm
BRIC  (Blue Ridge Inventors' Club)
http://www.inventorclub.org
540 943-3356


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Re: [RCSE] HELP! epoxy experts needed

2000-02-13 Thread Jill and Rick Brown

Bruce,

 I'm no expert in epoxy but I do use the West System epoxy for bagging.
What I am wondering is why this stuff didn't get hard sooner. If you
mixed much more hardener into it than you should have it seems that it
should have hardened in a shorter amount of time. Only thing I can
figure is the hardener NEEDS that amount of resin to react with. That
would leave all that excess hardener just laying there
 I don't know how to solve your problem with the wings now, but I am
wondering if anyone out there in the know, can explain why this mix
didn't harden.

Thanks,
RB

Bruce Beddoe wrote:
 
 I bagged a pair of wings and a stab 2 days ago.  They are plywood
 sheeted foam that I put glass over.  This was the first time I had
 used West Systems Epoxy and the directions said to mix 1:1.  When it
 was still not very hard today, I carefully read the directions which
 said if you don't have the special pumps for the cans, then mix 5:1 by
 weight or volume.
 
 1)  Is there any way to get the mess to harden.  It doesn't have to be
 full strength, since the ply is pretty strong anyway.  If baking or
 something might get rid of or harden the excess hardener, obviously
 this would be preferred.
 
 2)  If the mess has to come off, how do I get it off the wood without
 dissolving the foam?
 
 I sure hope someone has some brilliant ideas.  Thanks.
 
 Bruce Beddoe
 Pacific Palisades, CA
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Re: [RCSE] HELP! epoxy experts needed

2000-02-13 Thread Michael Neverdosky

There is no way to get that mess to harden.

Epoxy MUST be mixed at the proper ratio for it to harden. The range of
error that is acceptable is on the order of +/-10%. IOW pretty darn
close.

Now, your ply skinned wings should be pretty strong so you should be
able
to scrape all of the glass and gooey epoxy off. Then use epoxy or white
vinegar to clean the goo off of the surface, don't try and get all of
the goo
out of the wood, just get it to the point that feels tacky without
slippery goo on the surface.

Now reglass using epoxy mixed at the proper ratio and FULLY mixed.
I use an egg timer when I mix epoxy to make sure I mix for a FULL 3
MINUTES.

The reworked wing will not be as strong as if it had been done right the
first 
but it should be pretty close.

It is a good idea when using any new material, especially a different
epoxy, to
do a test before using it on something important.

To test;

1. Mix a small batch and time how long it takes to harden in the cup.
Caution;
It may get very hot so watch it for fire and smoke.

2. Mix a small batch and spread it on some of the typical materials you
use, 
balsa, ply, glass, etc. Let cure and see how hard the surface is and
measure
the difference in strength, stiffness and weight. These test don't all
have to
be accurate, just a feel for the difference will give you a better
understanding
of what is going on.

3. Try making a small layup similar to the real part you will be making
to
see what traps might get you when you do the big one.

Remember what worked and what didn't.
:-))

michael N6CHV AMA 77292 (builder of boats as well as models and user of
LOTS of epoxy)

Bruce Beddoe wrote:
 
 I bagged a pair of wings and a stab 2 days ago.  They are plywood
 sheeted foam that I put glass over.  This was the first time I had
 used West Systems Epoxy and the directions said to mix 1:1.  When it
 was still not very hard today, I carefully read the directions which
 said if you don't have the special pumps for the cans, then mix 5:1 by
 weight or volume.
 
 1)  Is there any way to get the mess to harden.  It doesn't have to be
 full strength, since the ply is pretty strong anyway.  If baking or
 something might get rid of or harden the excess hardener, obviously
 this would be preferred.
 
 2)  If the mess has to come off, how do I get it off the wood without
 dissolving the foam?
 
 I sure hope someone has some brilliant ideas.  Thanks.
 
 Bruce Beddoe
 Pacific Palisades, CA
 RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe" and 
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RE: [RCSE] HELP! epoxy experts needed

2000-02-13 Thread John Kirchstein

First, epoxy is not polymerized by catalysis as polyester is. Epoxy requires
accurate mixing of the two parts; resin and hardener. They are called this
because that's what they are. A mismatch in either direction will leave you
with some unreacted component which will weaken the final product at best,
or leave you with a sticky mess. Alcohol or vinegar will get the uncured
mess off eventually, but that part that cured will probably still be gummy.
If it stuck to the wood, get a cabinet scraper and try to pull as much as
you can off that way.
John Kirchstein
Silent Knights Soaring Society
Newark, DE
http://www.SilentKnightsSoaring.org


-Original Message-
From: Bruce Beddoe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 7:38 AM
To: RCSE; Doug Reel
Subject: [RCSE] HELP! epoxy experts needed


I bagged a pair of wings and a stab 2 days ago.  They are plywood
sheeted foam that I put glass over.  This was the first time I had
used West Systems Epoxy and the directions said to mix 1:1.  When it
was still not very hard today, I carefully read the directions which
said if you don't have the special pumps for the cans, then mix 5:1 by
weight or volume.

1)  Is there any way to get the mess to harden.  It doesn't have to be
full strength, since the ply is pretty strong anyway.  If baking or
something might get rid of or harden the excess hardener, obviously
this would be preferred.

2)  If the mess has to come off, how do I get it off the wood without
dissolving the foam?

I sure hope someone has some brilliant ideas.  Thanks.

Bruce Beddoe
Pacific Palisades, CA
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Re: [RCSE] HELP! epoxy experts needed

2000-02-13 Thread Scott Hewett

Send those wings to:
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue
Washington, D.C.
(there's a guy there that has lots of experience at getting out of sticky/gooey messes)
; - )

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Re: [RCSE] HELP ME!

1999-11-11 Thread Harley Michaelis

Tim. . . don't try to pick off the CA as a chip of the plastic will come
off. I was able to remove CA on mine with acetone without harming the
lenses. You might want to check with a lab and try it on a plastic lens
blank first. Debonder may also work well. Let us all know.
 
 I splashed some CA on my prescription plastic glasses!  Anyone know how
to 
 remove without damaging the glasses.  Don't you guys without glasses
worry 
 about your eyes?
 Tim

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Re: Re: [RCSE] Help on spider foam conclusions:

1999-01-16 Thread JMC3ROB

I had the same problem when I was cutting the airfoils being used for Dr. 
Michael Selig's wind tunnel test.  The solution I came up with was to cut in 
two half size (short wing) sections and join them together.  My theory on the 
problem was that the cutting wire did not have an accurate circular 
cross-section and therefore would tend to twist and wander around on long 
cuts.  If that is the case, then I would think that a larger diameter under 
more tension would do better.  Of course having very accurate round wire 
would help too (if that is the problem).

 Jerry's theory for what it is worth

 Jerry Robertson
 Flagstaff Az. 
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