Being concise ...
The setup on the older C&Cs is fairly bad for bulk charging of a larger house
battery bank.
1) Wiring
The path had the alternator output running the distance back to an ammeter on
the instrument panel,
then back usually to the starter post, then possibly through a switch and
rging problems. Ditto all the boats I have installed them on.
Rich
On May 7, 2014, at 12:11, Michael Brown via CnC-List
wrote:
There is no single charging profile that works when you are trying to charge a
barely discharged smaller
starting battery and a large fully discharged house ba
le the house bank was still in acceptance mode.
>> However, the fully starting battery wasn't accepting any amps, so it doesn't
>> seem to matter. I've never had a problem with it.
>>
>> Wal
>>
>> you wrote:
>>> Can you please explain
Can be a tough job. On Windburn I pulled the shaft a couple of years ago ensure
it could be removed in the water if it every was required.
On my C&C 30-1 the dimensions are:
Shaft - 7/8" diameter
Coupling - 3 1/2" outside diameter, three bolt holes
Coupling - 1 5/8" inside machined cavity - 5/8"
Does seem strange. If ground and neutral were bonded together on the boat
I would anticipate a much lower resistance reading. Even 18 gauge wire, which
is light duty, has about 1 ohm per 100 feet. A normal measurement if neutral and
ground were connected together even with a 50' boat cord set would
> But when I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move
If the cable is worn or damaged inside it will still likely work reasonable
well with no load on it, ie disconnected from the transmission.
What engine do you have?
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 11:07:28 -040
My guess is you have to replace the cable.
The earlier cables may have been made by Morse, now will be
replaced by Teleflex. You will need to measure the overall length,
say 8', and confirm that both ends use a clamp style connection.
This is an example of a clamp that may be on the transmission
Interesting that you mention the ~ 1976 redesign of the rudder. I have looked
at various rudders from I think a 1972, 1976 and 1980, as well as pictures of
the rudders on C&C 30 for sale. They have looked basically the same, the
swept back scimitar shape.
What does the high aspect ratio rudder loo
The 14th - 15th were perfect wind and weather days on lake Ontario. I raced in
the
Lake Ontario Short Handed Race Series, #2 on Saturday and #3 on Sunday. I am in
the Double Handed Spinnaker Fleet but raced solo.
It never fails to amaze me how even 10 miles from shore or any object there can
be a
Nothing will beat having some practice with an expert on board. Even designating
a observer to start taking measurements and notes is a great start.
For me there is four things to fiddle with.
1) rate of turn, could be considered the radius of the arc of the turn
2) shape of the arc
3) when the
I thought the ITC-5 was compatible with most stuff but not the ST50 MHU.
I have one i70, nice unit.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 11:43:59 -0300
From: Rich Knowles
To: "Della Barba, Joe" ,
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone
Joining the thread a bit late, was on the Lake Ontario 300 for the weekend.
Amazing how Mother Nature can throw every type of weather into two days.
Anyways, I had my C&C 30-1 steering completely apart over the winter. Pedestal
off and dismantled for powder coating, everything refurbished or repla
Thankfully not mine.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/barrie/sailboat-as-is-where-is-all-is-lost/603720077?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.
Is the volt meter accurate? Wiring OK?
If the alternator belt is vibrating vertically more than +/- 1/4" on a 10" span
while the engine is running
it is likely the belt is too loose. If after running the motor for 3 - 5
minutes if the belt is quickly uncomfortable
to touch it is slipping, which
fixed regulators would be someplace
between 13.8 and 14.7 volts.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2014 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator? Belt?
If the engine die randomly while under motor and you have gone through four
coils you may
have a problem similar to what I have fixed on a couple of Atomic 4s. Check the
wire that
comes out of the distributor to the coil. You will need to remove the
distributor cap, undo the
90 degree connector
I installed a pair of Noco Genius G3500 chargers this year.
The racing rules require spill proof batteries for new replacements,
currently I have one flooded and one AGM.
Advantages are:
IP65 water rating
light weight and easy to mount
useful status LEDs
automatic desulfation or deeply discharged
Generally with blocks that have ball / roller / needle bearings you do
not want a slippery lubricant. The blocks work by having the bearings
roll not slide. A proper grease / wax has the property of carrying away
debris, preventing corrosion and leaving a tiny film between the elements
without caus
I am back from the Lake Ontario Short Handed Racing Series 100 and the results
are in.
Great to see a few C&C boats out and doing so well.
DH Spin 1 - no C&C
DH Spin 2 - C&C 99 won, beat a DASH 34 by 8 minutes
DH Spin 3 - no C&C
DH Spin 4 - C&C 30-1 won, beat a Hunter 27X by a minute
SH Spin 1 -
The recommended sail plan would need to factor in what type of sails you have,
the condition
of the sails, what the Apparent Wind Angle is, and also what you are trying to
accomplish.
Getting the last 0.1 kt of speed in a race versus taking a conservative choice
for a cruise will
give different
Guilty by association I would guess. When Tartan took over the C&C name and
then had that
single incident on a Tartan 3700 "Blue Heron" I guess now C&C keels are falling
off.
It was pretty serious for the people involved, but it was a crack forward of
the keel not a
keel failure, and the keel d
I think Delrin, also called Acetal, is the material of choice for the bushings.
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/products/d/Acetal
I had a machine shop make up a selection of thicknesses from tube stock
at a reasonable price - $80 for six pieces.
I did take the rudder off, cleaned and checked it for
> I still cannot fathom why anyone would intentionally have a traveler forward
>
The traveler on windburn ( C&C 30-1 ) was moved forward to the cockpit seat aft
of the
companionway. I think a common factory install was just forward of the binnacle
if so
equipped. The factory position work
Similar to Rich and Joe a recommendation would be based on what batteries you
have
and your usage of them. That said, Canadian Tire has the Noco Genius chargers
on sale
this week.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?searchByTerm=true&q=noco
The GEN 3 charger could be a good fit.
With winds over 15 kts I try to helm a bit off the lee and have the main trimmer
center the boom. When the end is about 18" off centerline I do the initial gybe
fairly fast to swing the boom to 18" on the other side. The mainsheet is then
eased out to the correct position once I have settled in on
Likely the same as most other clubs National Yacht Club has a membership
category
for crew. Thanks to a few skilled computer programmers at NYC there is a full
online crew
bank with skill level and preferences that automates the matches and emails
everyone.
Every spring the club runs a special
C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
On Sep 11, 2014, at 13:04, Michael Brown via CnC-List
wrote:
Likely the same as most other clubs National Yacht Club has a membership
category
for crew. Thanks to a few skilled computer programmers at NYC there is a full
online crew
bank with skill level and preferences t
You may also want to take a look at the fleets in your area and see who you
will be racing against.
If the LF38 you are interested in PHRFs in around 165 for white sail that could
put you into a
varied fleet, possibly a lot of lighter 30 - 32' that will leave you in the
dust around the cans.
Yo
Ouch! The club here has two smaller fixed cranes and a "pole cat" - a used
utility truck with a
boom arm. The smallest fixed crane will do masts easily up to 30 - 32' boats.
All are available
for free with volunteers operating the pole cat.
For haul out the club hires in two large cranes. So we
Any experience with Lithium-Iron batteries?
I have a Costco group 31 deep cycle that I use for house and starting the
Atomic 4.
In reserve is a group 24 AGM that is intended to only be used to start the
engine if
the house battery dies or in an emergency to get home.
I have considered saving so
. Gary- Original Message ----- From:Michael
Brown via CnC-ListTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Wednesday, October 01,
2014 4:00PM Subject: Re: Stus-List boatbatteries
Any experience with Lithium-Iron batteries?
I have aCostco group 31 deep cycle tha
An interesting website on quotes attributed to Darwin:
http://www.darwinproject.ac.uk/six-things-darwin-never-said
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2014 03:14:38 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S
To: OldSteveH , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda
Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep
or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and
requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive
and at least an 18" bar.
As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the
appropriate socket, short extension
I have user Sobstad in Barrie for standing rigging and swagged lifelines. The
work is done
at Transat Marine which is also in Barrie.
http://www.transatmarine.com/main/homepage.html
You can contact Richard Osborne as Sobstad - sobs...@bellnet.ca
Transat was originally owned by John Osborne, Ric
Glad your trip was yesterday.
Forecast today is for 70 km/hr winds with gusts to 100 along the shore.
Docking would have been interesting to say the least.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2014 15:12:03 +
From: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subje
That might have been the mast for Fantome, an R boat at the National Yacht Club.
http://www.fantomer18.com/
The mast was replaced in 2013 when the previous wood mast failed.
Does look good.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2014 11:16:16 -0500
From: Ken Rodmell
To:
Subject:
When I switched from wire/rope halyards to all rope I removed the sheaves and
machined them from a V groove to a U groove. At the same time I replaced the
bearings with new oilite bronze. After two years I pulled the sheaves again and
the bearings were noticeably worn with cracks at the edges. Repl
>From a procedural point of view I believe the contractor has an inescapable
responsibility to inform a client of deliverables, costs and risks in a plainly
worded contract. Unless you have given clear carte blanc ro proceed with the
job the contractor has a further responsibility to advise you of
Interlux has added Biolux to some of their products available in the US.
The same base product sold in Canada is not available with Biolux.
As an example Interlux Canada sells VC-17m, Interlux US sells VC-17m Extra
with Biolux.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/can/diy/products/antifouling/vc-17m.aspx
h
Official temp was -28C ( -18.4F ) last night. That is not the "wind chill".
The house outside thermometer registered -30C ( -22F ) around midnight.
I am about 100 km north of Toronto. We may see a few days around -30F
in the winter, rarely may see something closer to -40.
Better so far compared to
As gasoline engines go the Atomic 4 has a flat torque curve.
There are various version of the A4 around, but the common 30 HP
variant had about 35 ft/lbs at 1000 RPM, and "peaks" around
43 ft/lbs. From about 1800 RPM to 3500 RPM it stayed within
about +/- 1.5 ft/lbs.
If you compare the Beta Marine
Possibly Siggy's Dancer, D&J Richardson.
Dave posted under "Do it yourself" the
deck and chain plate overhaul he did.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2015 20:51:27 -0500
From: Andrew Burton
To: John Pennie , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offs
Diesel with a 2;1 transmission?
I have a 11.5 x 8 Gori 2 blade folding on a 1:1 Atomic 4,
and it is slightly "over prop'd".
The math for the pitch part of it is straightforward.
((( Pitch X "efficiency" X RPM ) / 12 ) X 60 ) / 6076
Assuming an efficiency of 85% and a shaft RPM of 900
( engine
The force of a couple of halyards should not be enough to elongate holes
in the mast.
When I replaced the mast step in Windburn I doubted I would get the height
exactly the same so I made up adjustable mast collar hold down clamps.
I can see the deck rises a bit when the shrouds and backstay are t
Hi Wally.
I am interested. I have a C&C 30-1 with an Atomic 4. Currently I am using a
Gori
2 blade 11.5 x 8 but would consider getting a second one as a spare.
If you get the right wave direction at the mouth of the Niagara River it can
produce
some huge standing waves. I am not sure what p
>Mineral spirits or diesel fuel or Kerosene are good solvents for cleaning
>the grease from winches.
For those more challenging projects the Castrol Super Clean works well.
I think the product has changed over the years, may be a different company
making it now. I have a couple jugs from a few y
I would advise an AGM, maybe as the starting battery and for emergencies,
simply in case of a knockdown or other rare event.
My background with AGMs is from the computer industry were the are used
in Uninterruptible Power Supplies ( UPS ). Overall I was not and still am not
impressed. The high qua
I have no idea from a real world test how acetone and ATF work together as
a penetrating oil, but it does seem unlikely it works well. First off they
should not mix so they do not form a homogeneous solution. I would guess
that 100% acetone would work well to penetrate but it is not very slippery.
On longer runs, say over 20', there is a lot of mechanical ( geometric ? )
purchase pulling on the jackline mid way. I use low stretch webbing, the
stuff sailmakers use for tacks and reinforcing corners. Even on a 28' run
firmly tightened down I can easily lift the midpoint 2'. I suspect on a 40'
r
As a technical reference I like how a closed forum works. Who knows, I may need
to look up the best way to clean off Marvel Mystery Oil someday.
For the mix of technical, Q&A, social and banter the email digest works well
for me.
I do tend to read in batches, sometimes days apart, so end up respo
The advantage of running wing on wing is to get the maximum sail area in
clean air. With a genoa of 155% or larger it will sit partially behind the main
downwind when broad reaching. Not as much with a 135% and smaller.
Running dead down wind in light air wing on wing works great on a 170%
geno
> consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin
> and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet
Typical it works poorly. On moderately heavy days were most boats can
get up towards hull speed and sail deep downwind the JAM boats will be
about as fast as the spin boats but wil
Whale Gusher as in the foot pedal / level manual pump?
If you meant Whale Gulpher then +1 for those. When I rebuilt
the mast step I put the remote pickup at the low spot and
an electronic switch. Good so far.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2015 14:05:56 -0400
From: Danny H
The sticky but working MHU might be repairable.
There are kits available:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Raymarine-Autohelm-ST50-Wind-Vane-Bearings-O-Rings-/390530744370
That will do the ST50 units with black ends, some of the ST60 units.
The bearings are available separately, NMB DDR-830ZZRA1P25LY121.
Sometimes the through hull fitting has a straight thread ( NPS ), and the valve
has
a tapered thread ( NPT ). They are the same size and will thread together, but
it really
is not the best way to go. While not foolproof, if you can undo the valve and
clean up
the threads a quick test is to threa
Lots of choices. If we start with
- a non-racing application
- fairly stiff mast
- no desire for forcing a pre-bend
- a small amount of rake
- a minimal gap between the mast and partners at the cabin top
then
1 - pick a starting point and block the mast heel.
2- on a windy day, say towards the h
I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the
end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64" or less off will make a
cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the
die does not show up you should be good.
>From your orig
You could plug your specs in here and see what the recommendation is:
http://www.vicprop.com/displacement_size.php
I would have guessed a Gori 15X10 to be a little big, maybe the 14X9.5 is OK.
The 12X6 seems too small. If it cannot "bite" the water and stay connected
it will churn - cavitation
On the Buck Algonquin bronze stuffing boxes this works well:
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/10-in-wide-opening-adjustable-wrench/A-p8306623e
Handles about a 2" nut.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Tue, 19 May 2015 12:43:34 -0300
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"
To: C&C list
Subject
That looks pretty much the same as I found on Windburn.
I used 2" white oak for two of the girders ( stringers ? ) and
1.5" for the center girder. The challenge was cutting the oak
to match the curve of the bilge, which was different on the
two sides. Further, the sides did not run parallel bow to
I think the initial tuning of about 8" of rake, usually done by hanging
a weight on the main halyard, is a reference assuming the boat is
sitting level in the water. At least a few of the C&C 30-1 I have
looked at are stern heavy, some by a couple of inches. I suspect
that will add some to the rake
ow, it moves the center of
effort aft and has the same effect as raking the mast on a level boat...
On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 12:51 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
I think the initial tuning of about 8" of rake, usually done by hanging
a wei
I used the Duramax packing, same stuff as discussed in the pbase article.
Shaft turns easily, no heat build up and no drips at rest. It is hard to tell
what the flow rate is under power, a guess would be a drip every 2 - 5 minutes.
After a year I pulled the shaft ( easy to do on a 30 ). No wear or
The brushless motors do get better battery life.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/system/m12-fuel
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/batteries-and-chargers/2510-20
I have the 18V version, was on sale at the time. Great drill. One thing I like
is the ability to slow start into aluminum or SS an
> and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or
> modifying the existing serrations
My ARCO 40 winches are chromed bronze. I took them to a chrome plating shop and
had them stripped and returned.
( Mayfair Plating http://mayfairplating.com )
A machine shop lightly
One thing that can cause this is when the oil is not draining back from the
head or wherever
fast enough. At higher RPM you might be pumping more oil up, and after a while
sucking
air in the pan instead of oil.
You might be able to determine if this is the case by measuring the oil level
by dip
>> I wouldn't install a knot meter - Gps is fine
No idea with the newer i50/60/70 series, but the older Raymarine
wind instruments used speed from the knot meter ( wheel in the thru hull )
for calculating TWS and TWA. There didn't seem to be an option anywhere
to use GPS speed.
Fred - any update
Does seem to be the case. I guess when I get too old for racing, which I hope is
not in the near future, someone else might step up to preserve the Windburn
racing heritage.
For sale, $20K in top condition racing sails, $10K in electronics, $10K in
Harken rigging.
Comes with a C&C 30 in good shap
As far as I know if you have AWS and AWA you only need boat speed through the
water
to get TWS and TWA which is shown by True on the i60 wind.
If you want to display the magnetic angle from where the wind is coming from,
such as
on an old ST50 multidisplay, then you need boat heading which comes
If your ST60 is giving you True readings then you have boat speed through the
water
wired in to the Seatalk bus. I would guess you have a through hull paddle wheel
connected to a Speed or TriData unit.
That is all you need for the new "i" series, though somewhere there will be the
need to convert
I am guessing the e7d is SeatalkNG but the i40 is Seatalk.
At least with my SPX/5 and firmware level there was no conversion between
Seatalk and SeatalkNG.
The converter was easy to install, though it would have been easier if I knew
I needed it and hadn't dressed and tied all the cabling first.
> Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some
> electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the
> connector.
The normal substance to use would be a dielectric grease, not a conductive
grease,
though at the 12 volt range that property does not come i
Not including surfing or being pushed by waves I rarely get over calculated
hull speed on my 30-1.
Sometimes do it reaching on flat water with the 195% spinnaker. In one case I
did get to about 7 kts,
which leaves an impressive ditch directly behind the boat. At the same time a
Viking 22 slowly
Hi Joel and Mike. I won't disagree with any of your points, though I was
commenting
on what I think is a different topic. Aside from planning, surfing or
momentarily being
overpowered in a gust some boats get to a much higher percentage of hull speed
in moderate winds. I think everyone understand
Don't hurt yourself laughing, PHRF-LO has the Star at 193.
That is with a -12 for no motor.
The skipper, a good friend, suggested something in the 160 range also.
Out of curiosity, when you say:
> And, we race in light wind and flat water, which favors them.
is it your observation that they see
We used tape about 5 years ago on my C&C 30 stripe, but painted the star.
Some edge chipping and wear but still OK.
I found a reflective tape at an auto supplier, can't remember which one, that
ended up being the correct width. By day it is solid red, at night it reflects
red
and silver in altern
The chart maps stiffness as heel from 1 pounds per square inch on the sails.
The three Landfalls,
LF 42 - LF 43 - LF 38, have a sail area / displacement rating of around 15. The
30-1 is 18.4, and
the 41 is 19.35. The Landfalls are stiffer due to less sail area, the 41 due
to a deep keel.
I hav
I went to 3/8 VPC for spin halyards to save weight. The knobby surface
provides good hand grip. The line locks well in the clutch.
I tried 7/16 for jib sheets and also found them a bit slippery. The other issue
is we broke the core on one line earlier this year. The core - core eye splice
was fine
I had a Raymarine ST4000 wheel drive that worked but in some circumstances
not well. Trying to use it upwind into waves had it steering all over the
place, and
playing with the damping settings didn't solve it. At lower speeds it would
hunt a lot.
At the Toronto boat show I spoke with the people
The asyms work best when they bring the AWS up and AWA forward. That is hard
to do on the typical C&C which neither planes or easily exceeds hull speed. It
looks
like a wild ride on the J/80s, Melges and such when they lift off and scream
downwind
in a breeze.
I raced in a very mixed fleet for
Would it help to put a fuel / water separator into the vent line?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Diesel-Fuel-Water-Separator-Replaces-5864-002-Thread-M14-1-5-/171859797203
The simple ones have no filter elements so would not impede air flow. They
would capture water coming in.
The more sophis
quantities of water from (large quantities of) fuel. The problem on hand is a
large quantity of water (and no fuel) entering the line. I think that if you
wanted a full proof design, something working on a principle of Dorade box
(with a float?) would be required.
Marek
From: Michael B
The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the vent
line.
If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not causing
an
issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That wou
PHRF Lake Ontario has the ToT multipliers listed in tables:
http://www.phrf-lo.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=81&Itemid=198
PHRF-LO uses 566.431 and 401.431 for A and B, seems to be different from
everywhere else.
That has the effect of setting the scratch boat at 165 which is
I have a Gori 2 blade 11.5 x 8 on Windburn, a 77 30-1 with an Atomic 4 (
Stevedore ).
My guess is that at 8 it is over pitched but 11.5 x 8 appears to be the
smallest standard
Gori prop size. I can get to about 6.2 kts into light weather, and can tow
another 10,000 lb
boat into waves at 5 kts. R
The crew prefers Stugeron when racing. I am told it works well and causes less
drowsiness.
Everyone brings some back when traveling abroad.
Some topic drift. I was in Antigua bareboating for 8 days, had a Jeanneau 41
with a Raymarine A
series chartplotter. While I liked it I was surprised how
1/4" stainless steel with stainless steel mandrel pop rivets have a tensile
strength up to 2000 lbs.
http://www.crawfordproducts.com/ultragrip.htm
Even an aluminum / aluminum rivet is fairly strong at up to 890 lbs.
I doubt there is any advantage to using a rivet unless the wall thickness of
t
I have a C&C 30 "77" model year.
>From my HIN ZCC304531076 I would guess it is #453 laid up October 1976.
I have the sliding door and after a few years of ownership the PO dropped off
the
folding door that the PPO had removed.
At haulout, so no mast and most stuff removed the crane weighs me at
I have wondered what the limiting factor would be when carrying too much sail
area,
and had a chance to test it out over a 5 hour sail. Part of the reason is I do
sail and
race solo so knowing what to expect is an advantage, and also Lake Ontario does
get
variable weather and sometimes poor fore
Some of the transmissions are oil bath, and some share the oil with the engine.
If that oil is one of the newer oils it may have friction modifiers in it which
can
be too slippery. When first going into reverse the symptom is poor power and
excess force on the "gear" shifter.
I have an atomic 4 a
I see these two Johnson bearings:
870322100 * BIND ID: 1 1/4 OD: 1 1/2 Wall thickness:
1/16
870322101 BIRD ID: 1 1/4 OD: 1 3/4 Wall thickness: 1/8
You could try contacting a local machine shop to see if they could
turn down the "BIRD" to an OD of 1 5/8.
Michae
PHRF Lake Ontario has supplied both FS and NFS ratings ( if appropriate )
for years. They use to track both FS and NFS races and analyze the results.
For 2012 season this was changed to keeping a FS SP based on race results
and using a calculated offset for NFS.
http://phrf-lo.org/index.php?optio
Hi Bill,
do the sport boats on Lake Erie have different FS and NFS ratings?
I have been able to race FS against a wider range of boats the last
couple of years including J/80 and Melges 20. They have a "sweet"
spot in TWS, but do not perform exceptionally at higher or lower winds.
No idea
The corresponding sizes from Morse are called "Chogset" and "Chub",
neither having a 1 5/8 OD. Sames a Johnson they jump from 1 1/2 to 1 3/4.
http://www.morserubber.com/StandardBrassSleeve.pdf
Maybe here:
https://www.seaware.co.uk/shaft-cutlass-bearing-brass-metric-9275.html
P/N CR005/1
It may
Hi Paul,
are you looking for:
1 - a SP ( Speed Potential ) rating for a C&C 34
2 - a SP for your C&C 34
3 - an ASP ( Adjusted Speed Potential ) for your C&C 34 ( possible rating
adjustment for sail size )
4 - a valid PHRF certificate, likely from PHRF-LO, so you can enter a race
This might h
The splitter works well, worth the price.
There are some technical challenges to consider. A VHF antenna will be tuned
( some better than others ) to 157 MHz. FM is 88 - 108 MHz. The better the
VHF antenna the less FM signal strength it will pass through. The FM station
has a choice of polari
a horizontal antenna would work for your VHF? :-)
Bill Bina
On 3/2/2016 9:33 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote:
> The splitter works well, worth the price.
>
> There are some technical challenges to consider. A VHF antenna will be
> tuned
> ( some better than others
I have the Gori 11.5 x 8 on Windburn, also with an Atomic 4.
My guess is that it is slightly over pitched and that 11.5 x 7.5
or 11.5 x 7 might be the optimal size.
I have not found it to be an issue since Windburn is kept light for
racing and bereft of bimini and dodger. While motor sailing, thos
The bearing should be snug in the cutlass. While it is hard
to describe snug once it is in you should not be able to
rotate it easily by hand.
You can cut the bearing down with a hacksaw. It might be easier
if you put a wooden dowel, plastic pipe or something in it that
prevents damaging the rubb
Some notes on the C&C 30 rating history at PHRF Lake Ontario.
1985 FS:168 NFS:168
Record created in the current database
1996 FS:162 NFS:162
Handicap adjustment by Central Council based on performance history
2000 FS:162 NFS:180
+18 Disconnect of NFS-SP from FS-SP rating
2006 FS:168
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