be cheaper, but not superior.)
-Dave M.
==
On 9/30/05, Gabriel S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> why the 15w 40? doesent everyone recomend the 15w 50?
>
>
> On 9/29/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Some of the time, using Mobil-1 c
Ancient Chinese proverb... (?)
'When wrestling a pig in the mud, you both get filthy dirty... but the
pig is enjoying himself.'
=)
+dm
> --
> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 07:49:42 -0700
> From: "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] name calling...
>
> Actua
Wow - there's a blast from the past. Talk about dragging up old
memories! I think I joined the "Kathy" list in 1999 or so? Back then
the 124 diesel was pretty new to me, and I was busy trying to figure
out if 115C on the temp gauge was OK or not (since the dealer told me
it was fine as long as it's
to get you a rebuilt unit cheaper, if you do need one.
If you have the time, I would swap pumps between your 2 cars and see
if the problem follows the pump or not. It could be done in one
weekend as DIY.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 16:28:44 -0400
red NON-extended
performance (go figure!), and is only $20-$21 for the 5-qt jug at
Wal-Mart. Confused yet?
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 16:03:12 -0400
> From: "Tom Scordato" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Synthetic Mobil
not be a concern for me
at all. They can wreak havoc on the gasser engines however. After you
get the car, inspect the wiring - only replace the harness if
necessary. I wouldn't mind finding a nice 2.5T myself, with ASD of
course.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date:
OM603 engine should use a quart of oil (or less) in 4-6kmi. I
assume you already know about the rod issues in your 3.5L engine,
which can eventually lead to ovaled cylinders and - you guessed it -
extreme oil consumption (but not through the intake tract!)
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Bois
a meter onto it? I have the MB
> service CD's, but I can't find mention of the rack sensor.
> Thanks Dave
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Aaron Lam&q
FWIW, I use the Mobil-1 5W-40 in ALL my vehicles, gas or diesel. That includes:
1986 300E (gas)
1987 300D (diesel)
1994 E500 (gas)
1993 E350 van (gas)
1981 VW Dasher (diesel)
2000 Aprilia Mille (gas)
Unless you own a vehicle that specifies a thinner oil, like a small
Japanese 4-cylinder, the 5W-4
Exactly - thank you for the clarification, Marshall!
=)
-dm
On 10/6/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Dave M. wrote:
> > Lee,
> >
> > Cold starting will be a non-issue in the 93 if you run Mobil-1, as it
> > has factory afterglow. Probably n
Brand new, only $999 EUR opening bid...
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8005754530
=)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Apparently schools stopped teaching homophones about 10-15 years ago?
Another popular one is lose vs. loose...
*sigh*
-dm
> --
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 16:27:24 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] Break
>
> Why do some insist on spelling "brake" as break?
Just replace the head, unless the bottom end is somehow damaged. If
you get a used engine, it is almost guaranteed to have another #14
head on it, which could crack in the future. Get a used #17 head, or a
new one.
=)
+dm
> --
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 15:43:23 -0400
>
t it before it gets worse! Also - it's not
related to fuel level in the tank (same thing with full tank or empty
tank). Power is normal, as is pretty much everything else...
:-)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 259kmi (Sportline)
Thanks, Casey & Marshall. I took a cursory look and the lever is
popping back up when I turn the key, but I haven't verified the range
of motion yet. I'll check that out and report back in a few days.
Awfully strange that it only happens when hot!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E5
Glow plugs are Bosch Duraterm Chromium, about 8 months and 8kmi old.
Fuel filters are recent as well. If plugs or filters were an issue,
I'd expect a lot more trouble with cold starts - but it's flawless on
cold starts. (The afterglow modification probably helps there, lol!)
:)
-dm
> ---
but can't quite get a handle on the bosch part number for a om603
>
>
> On 13-Oct-05, at 7:57 PM, Dave M. wrote:
>
> > Glow plugs are Bosch Duraterm Chromium, about 8 months and 8kmi old.
> > Fuel filters are recent as well. If plugs or filters were an issue,
> &g
Sorry to hear that, Peter. I just had the same failure on my W124. I
haven't yet decided if I will attempt a DIY repair this winter while
the car is hibernating, or if I will pay the stealership the 4 hours
labor (*grumble*). I didn't realize how much I use the sunroof until I
no longer have it wor
Hi John,
That's correct, you need a different part number for your 23mm glow
plugs. You must have a 3.5L car then, since all the 90's 603's in the
USA were 603.97x's! ;)
About the 500E lights, I set mine up with relays so the inside pencil
beams come on with the high beams automatically. Using th
John,
The car is right on spec - the high side, actually. Spec for your car
is, IIRC, 0.75-0.85 bar at full load in 3rd gear at 4000rpm. In
English, that's 10-12psi. The older (<1987) models had a spec of up to
14psi. I'm more than a little concerned that your "mechanic" doesn't
appear to have acc
Warning: The pushbutton unit for the 1987 300D/TD is unique to the
1987 W124 diesels, IIRC, and none of the other years/models will work.
So make sure you get the correct part number. I believe you can get
rebuilt units for something like $200-250 from Rusty? I may have a
good used unit if Kaleb do
n death
toll is nearly 80k now.)
;-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 260kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:29:13 -0700
> From: Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Climate control (1987 300D)
>
hough!
;-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 09:23:00 -0400
> From: dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] S320 vs. S350D.. or would that be S300D?!
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]&g
ance.com/docs/mb/articles/
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
> --
> Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 18:41:29 -0700
> From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Ignore this List of Cars if you are so inclined
>
>
> http://seattle.c
each of my wallet as well.
=)
-dm
> --
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 09:36:18 -0700
> From: Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] PHX E55..
>
> From Craigslist..
>
> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/105413137.html
>
> Dave M.. You re
tting lucky with some full sets for certain years. Before anyone
gets excited and asks me to scan them to PDF, most are odd sizes
larger than letter/legal and wouldn't work well on my scanner (which
isn't hooked up anyway, lol!) The real thing is nicer to read anyway,
and they're not exp
elt, and tighten things up. The end.
Anyone with a 602/603 engine might want to check this out... the
adjustment on two cars (plus Joe's) ended up being right in the middle
of the range (as seen by the slotted mounting holes). Thanks again for
the tip, Joe!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E
hts. I use these as DRL's, which works great and looks pretty
sharp too.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 00:11:48 -0700
> From: John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 500e lights
>
>
> Spent a few hours over the
Welcome back, Rich. To answer your question, synthetic, Mobil-1 5W-40,
because there's almost nothing better on the market. I wouldn't go
past 7,500 miles or so without oil analysis. Say, is that
International still available? Do you put synthetic in it? And does it
have a gun rack for the wife's c
Sounds like a bad tumbler to me. Drilling is not a very good option. I
would buy the new VIN-coded lock from the dealership, which will come
with a new key. Try the NEW key in the old lock - this may work where
an old key does not. Once the trunk is open, replace the lock. Start
using the new key a
Mounts should be about $50-60 each, usually replaced in pairs. They're
fairly easy to replace - one bolt on top, one on the bottom. Remove
bolts, jack up engine slightly, trade mounts, tighten bolts. Pretty
simple, really. The right side top bolt is the worst, since it's below
the turbo and there's
Why don't you tell us how you really feel, Gabe. (Or is it Gayb?)
O_o
> --
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 11:45:20 -0700
> From: "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D For Sale
>
> Adultery is only "immoral" from a religious standpoint.
>
> On 10/2
diesel benz (coming in '06?) or AMG.
> P.S. It's just my opinion and my response was all in humor and not ment to
> upset anyone to the point of calling me gay, which probally reflects your
> own chimera.
> On 10/25/05, Dave M. <[EMA
4 was excellent for rust prevention. The W210 has an awful
reputation in the rust belt, both in USA and overseas. All my W124's
are from the west coast and are 100% rust-free, including the
underbody.
:-)
Dave M.
Bo
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 09:16:01 -04
Fred,
This sounds like a classic case of a failed or failing cruise
amplifier. New ones are outrageously expensive ($600+ wholesale!). You
should be able to get a rebuilt unit for under $200 last time I
checked. Give Rusty a call. Another option is 'resoldering' the
circuit board, but this has mix
il was switched back to 5W-40 or 15W-50.
YMMV, etc...
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 15:17:41 -0400
> From: Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] converting to synthetic oil?
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> &
Casey is right. An intercooled 2.5T should give equal power to a stock
1987 300D 3.0L, with nearly 20% increase in MPG (assuming you can keep
your foot out of it.) I've been toying with the idea of getting a
1990-93 300D 2.5T and maxing out the pump, which should provide close
to 150hp, while retai
l over the emissions junk (oh, darn) but the only thing I'd want
working is the ELR anyway - same as on my '87.
=)
-dm
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 19:53:30 -0400
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300D
>
tes the
installation significantly. I've done the relay install on three cars
now - takes me 6-10 hours to do it neatly. Photos of two of them are
here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_headlights/
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 260kmi (Sportline)
from an industry expert:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 15:48:00 -0400
> From: "Lee Levitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ecode lamps for a W124
>
> Dave writ
sales brochures.
More performance specs are here (Excel spreadsheet):
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/acceleration_specs.xls
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 17:15:20 -0700
> From: "Chase Kaufman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sub
hey're plentiful and cheap. The stock 240D engine, without oil cooled
pistons etc, is just not worth messing with - IMO.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 260kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 18:49:53 -0500
> F
d and near 200kmi, this is cheap insurance against a
failed tumbler. I've replaced the tumblers on both of my pre-1990
124's, and changed my dad's out as well.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
1986 300E - 208kmi
> --
That's insane. My local Mall-Wart has the 5qt jugs on the shelf for
$21 I belive, or approx $4.25/qt. The single bottles are $5.xx/qt (I
forget the exact price). You paid nearly double that for what's
theoretically the same product in a different package...!
=)
+dm
>
Alex,
Wow - that's one of the first, if not THE first, cracked #17 head that
I've heard of. Could you give us any more details? How it happened,
where the crack was (beteween valves or valve to prechamber), etc?
Thanks!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300
s the inside of the rear tires excessively.
If the car is lowered AND has wide wheels (I've got 18x10.0 wheels
with 275/35/18 tires on the E500), the condition is even worse. If
your car is stock, you don't need this kit.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
He snuck it right out from under me too, lol. I probably would have
jumped on that one if it were closer... a 1400 mile jaunt was not in
my schedule anytime soon. Now, if it had ASD (a pretty rare option)...
hmmm... oh well. Congrats on the new ride, Don!
:-)
-Dave M
n possibly needing to change the filter more often.
This assumes it's getting diluted by a couple hundred gallons of #2.
But, you know what they say about opinions... ;-) Anyone have some
solid info on this? I'm curious myself...
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date
Hi Alex,
Hey, I had forgotten about that car. That is just bizarre about the
head. Too bad you didn't get to see the failure, or take a picture.
Glad to hear it's running well with the #22!
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 23:02:19 -0
ing, etc. If you didn't have the coolant issues, I'd suspect
the turbo for the oil consumption. I'd sure want to rule out
everything before yanking the head again... ugh...
:(
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 14:14:07 -0800
> From: Kevin
Yep - works fine on my box (XP SP2). What's the error, or where does
it not work...?
+dm
> --
> Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 18:48:01 -0600
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] anybody have the new DVD version of the EPC?
>
>
> I do, and cant get
If it's the same version I'm running (April 2005), no loopback adapter
is needed - ditto for the WIS. Some folks claim it's required but I've
installed on several systems with zero problems. You may need to
format C to start with a clean OS, but it will work. Requires W2K or
XP, though - not sure i
Don,
Short answer: No.
Long answer: Only if you need access to European part numbers or
datacards, or other markets (Japan, South Africa, etc). Or info on
Mogs, trucks, busses, etc. There are a handful of updates &
corrections even on some of the older cars but not enough to really
justify the h
I've never understood the fascination with the loopback adapter. I
have never needed one (don't even know what one would look like,
lol!). I've also not had any problems with it 'phoning home'. I'm
running XP SP2 with the firewall turned on, but it's never asked me
about allowing any EPC net traffi
Russ,
That's bizarre. I suspect the 'pirated' copies are ones that are
'cracked' and don't use a keygen. The keygen creates a real license
key, same as you would get from MB. I have my EPC and WIS installed at
home, on a PC connected to the internet via broadband. I have no 3rd
party firewall (no
And I prefer removing the silly thing entirely. The valve itself can
leak, even if all vacuum connections are removed - see photos here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_intake/
:)
+dm
> --
> Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 01
Lee,
The photos here should give you some ideas on how to run the wires:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/blue_87/
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/white_87/
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/
:-)
+dm
> --
> Date:
Sorry Don... I only own W124's and haven't worked on any W126's. Those
pics are from my cars where I am still in the process of doing the
stereo install. Maybe this winter I'll get to complete the blue car!
Last winter my plans were derailed by the timing cover fiasco (for
those of you who remember
om W202/203/208/210 donor cars
and really help with the wallowy sidewalls (195/65 tires are a joke,
IMO - note that MB has nothing remotely close to those specs on
current vehicles!)
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 16:47:59 -0500
> Fr
Those paper manuals are awfully hard to come by these days. The price
is not unreasonable... hope somebody jumps on it. (I've already got a
set, so I'm out of the running, lol.)
Side note - if there was ever an M119 manual printed, I need one! I've
never seen one and don't know if they exist
center, I like about 14.0-14.25 inches front & rear (with a full tank
of fuel). Stock is usually 15.0, give or take a bit.
The Sportline steering box & steering wheel are also nice - faster
ratio and smaller diameter, respectively.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
Just a sec... anything xW-30 is really too thin, and not approved for
summer use at least in any MB owner's manual I've seen. In order, the
preferred M-1 weights would be 5W-40, 15W-50, and (least preferred)
0W-40. All the other stuff (xW-30 or xW-20) is for little high-revving
ricer motors, not MB
bars are a good start with wider wheels. You can
mostly leave it alone from there... the cost goes up a lot for the
other stuff, unless you have the tools & skills for all DIY work. Did
I mention Euro headlights yet? Or the K-Mac adjustable rear camber
kit?
(ducks for cover)
:-)
--
Dave M.
;
that was sold in Europe.
Some pictuers of the failed camber plates would be nice, though!
For reference, photos of the K-Mac eccentric camber bushings are here:
http://www.buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 0
There's always the fold-up kind that bolt to the door panel. They work
great, look decent, but I still don't like drilling holes to mount
them. I've also seen them mounted in the center console under the arm
rest, which is nice for some chassis (works on W123, early W124,
probably some others too).
I dream of the day when phones are banned nationwide from being used
by the driver when the car is in motion.
*sigh*
-Dave M.
(one of the last people on planet Earth who does not own a cell phone!)
> --
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 13:17:37 -0800
> From:
Chris,
Forget that site if it doesn't work... try this one instead:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html
The Braingears site tries to use the silly Macromedia fluff. All you
need is the PDF files. Or, just download the CD images from one of the
FTP sites that are run by list members.
akes it awfully suspicious! Especially if the engine in question
is a 603. A failed head gasket can provide similar symptoms, but
that's not as common on the 603.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:52:50 -0800 (PST)
> From: C
That's the great thing about the "old", mechanical OM60x engines. Once
the engine is started, it requires zero electrical connections to STAY
running. You will lose wipers, lights, climate control, etc... but the
engine will run until the fuel tank is emptied. The 1990-up models
that have vacuum-op
hings. The price is almost the same.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 09:20:17 -0500
> From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 124 Control Arm Bushings
>
>
> I brought my '91 300D 2.5 74k miles in
Hi John,
IMO, sway bar bushings are inspected visually, not by hardness. If
they are sloppy and deformed, so the bar is not tightly held in the
bushing, they should be replaced. The old style was plain rubber. The
new ones (from the DEALER, not aftermarket) have a Teflon lining on
the inside to re
;d love to hear if
anyone else has encountered this. I forget which of my cars does this
occasionally, but it hasn't been bad enough (or frequent enough) for
me to make a mental note to fix it. (Yet...!)
;-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 13:2
C
compressor... the list goes on. If I had been in the market for a 87
wagon, I would probably have bid much higher than what it sold for. I
think the new owner practically stole it...
Aaron, are you the lucky new owner? This would fit in nicely with your fleet!
=)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E5
"Book" values are meaningless, and usually way low, for cars that are
rare and/or were imported in limited numbers. I think there were maybe
1500 diesel wagons imported to the USA back in 1987 and I bet less
than 5% remaining today are anywhere near as clean as this one. That
was also the last year
Hi Donald,
I understand where you're coming from, and usually I'd agree that is
was a little on the high side. And, I don't trust photos that much
either. However, if you read the entire text of the ad, almost every
high-dollar failure has been addressed. That includes the A/C system,
tranny, and
Gosh, and we were almost starting to tolerate the little tyke. (Not!)
You should sign him up for Banned, if he's not already over there. He
was already on my 'ignore' list, but thanks for saving me the trouble
in the future.
=)
+dm
> --
> Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 20:13:
I think people often mistake the build date, stamped on the plate
inside the driver's door jamb, to mean model year. However, a 1987
model year car is usually built between 07/1986 and 06/1987. If the
engine is from a car stamped, say, 10/1986 the seller may incorrectly
assume it's a 1986 car.
Not
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