I have decided to send a few catalogs at my own expense to museums and
curators who I think might be interested in the topic of a
contemporary fiber art show in lacemaking techniques. I have a list of
recipients, but I am wondering if I have missed anyone. Suggestions?
Devon
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There is a show at the Textile Museum in St. Gallen, Switzerland
called Lace and Status,
https://www.textilmuseum.ch/en/lace-and-high-society/ with 160
textiles. I have been wanting to go to St. Gallen for a while, and was
very disappointed that I had to miss their exhibit and symposium on
lace a f
Dear Sue, and Clare,
Yes, I am having an amazing time. It is great fun and the lace exhibit
is actually the most successful exhibit they have ever had. I think
that the historic inn would be well advised to write up an article in
any historic inn trade magazines that may exist about how desirable i
It has been a busy week in Clinton, NJ. On Thursday, Greet Rome,
Martin Bruggeman, Wally Thoma and Veerle Merschaut visited the exhibit
at the Hunterdon Art Museum, having come from Belgium. In honor of
this international visit, a town councilwoman was sent by the mayor to
greet them, and a Hunterd
Earlier I posed a question about a piece of lace in the museum that I
am having trouble categorizing. The museum has it pegged as Flemish.
I posted the photo on the Laceioli.ning site
laceioli.ning.com/groups/group/show?groupUrl=identification-history&xg_source=activity
This should be viewable by
Dear Gon,
I am a little confused about your characterization of the ground as
cinq trous. To me, cinq trous has a square type of configuration like
rose ground. This ground looks hexagonal. I have located it in a book
called Deocrative Fillings for Bucks Point Lace, compiled by Geraldine
Stott. Sh
I just posted an identification question on the Laceioli.ning site
with photos. Here is the link.
This piece says it is Flemish, Southern Netherlands, ca. 1800. Fond de
mariage; outlined with heavy thread suggestive of Mechlin; It is 2 1/2
inches wide.
I don't feel that calling it Mechlin is necess
It has been over a week since the show opened and I am trying to
digest what has been happening. I had been told that openings at the
Hunterdon Art Museum typically drew 200-250 people. There were
actually three shows opening at the same time as is typical in this
museum. One was the members show,
I visited the Hunterdon Art Museum on Saturday to drop off some fabric
that might be used to frame a piece of art that had arrived without a
frame. There I found Seth, one of their excellent installers. He has
done installation work for the Newark Museum and now works for the
Metropolitan Museum of
Dear Doris,
I am so glad that you like the catalog for Lace, not Lace.
The opening is a week from Sunday, and it is getting very exciting
here. Lieve Jerger arrived last Sunday and spent Monday, Tuesday and
Wednesday installing the Carriage of Lost Love, the life size copper
wire bobbin lace carria
I am getting very excited about the Lace, not Lace opening. Yesterday
I spent all day at the museum while Lieve Jerger and her friend, and
wire lace practitioner, Laura Lewis assembled the Carriage of Lost
Love, the life size carriage in copper wire bobbin lace that Lieve has
been working on since
Ugh. I forgot that my email transmission don't work unless i send them
through the google mail site, instead of my mail program. Sorry for
the duplication.
Dear Janice,
I think the best photos would be the ones that are in the catalog,
which will be available from Amazon for $30.00. Those people
All are invited to the opening of Lace, not Lace: Contemporary Fiber
Art from Lacemaking Techniques at the Hunterdon Art Museum in Clinton,
NJ. Yes, this exhibit that I have been working on for years is due to
open Sept. 23, 2018. The reception with wine and snacks is 3-5. I will
speak at 4. At 5 p
Alex writes: Because black is so difficult to work with, much of the
black lace was made
using white thread and subsequently dyed black.
However, according to the Bobbins of Belgium, p. 296, "Grammont, or
Chantilly lace is usually made of black silk thread". Also there is a
footnote in Palliser in
The theory that you lose your eyesight from making lace is a
persistent one. I once consulted my ophthalmologist about this,
fearing for my own eyesight, and he said, "You cannot damage your eyes
by using your eyes." One theory about blindness among lacemakers is
that, living in port towns as most
Another interesting find is looping that looks like needle lace in the
prehistoric American Southwest. The article found here:
https://www.archaeologysouthwest.org/pdf/pecos2008_webster.pdf has a
diagram on page 13 which could well be found in a needle lace book and
photos of bags on p. 14 in this
I have lately become obsessed with taking close-up photos of gros
point in my collection with my Iphone using the olloclip attachment
and a thin transparent millimeter measure that I wedge between the
olloclip and the lace. Yes, the 10,000 stitches per square inch is
something that is true, not a l
Previously, lacemaking machines were run on Jacquard technology in
which the movement of the machine was directed by punched cards. Now I
believe that most lacemaking machines are run on computer technology.
But, would the computer version still be called Jacquard technology,
or is the physical pre
<>
There is a form of Binche called Point de Fee, which translates to
Fairy (Faery) Lace. But, usually we hear it in the US as Point de Fee.
It is a form of Binche with a lot of tallies in it. I think a lot of
it was made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Devon
On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 2:51
Sorry, the Urchins are up until Oct 7, not the 8th as I said.
Here is some info about public transportation to them.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION FROM NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT AND NEW
YORK CITY TO
HUNTERDON ART MUSEUM IN CLINTON, NEW JERSEY
Transbridge Bus Lines (The Transbridge bus statio
Clinton is about equidistant from Newark and Philadelphia. It is probably
best to rent a car, although there are some public transportation options
from Newark. Although originally the Urchins were supposed to be up for the
entire duration of the show, it is now the case that they will only be up
f
Lyn Bailey has asked me to post this for her because she posted it
herself this morning and hasn't seen it come through, and she needs
answers soon. Please respond to lynrbai...@desupernet.net , not me ;-)
I am an idiot. DH and I are leaving Tuesday for Amsterdam, returning on
September 3. We
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I don't think it was a west coast phenomenon. Originally there was a
group called the Federation of Doll Clubs. in the 1950s, a small
sub-group of them was interested in dressing dolls in the appropriate
style lace for the era of the doll, and they formed a lace study group
within the Doll Clubs, c
Oops, Forgot to trim. Sorry. Now that I am posting from the internet
google platform it doesn't display the previous messages on my
message, so I forget it is there.
Devon
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Dear Jean,
This sounds fascinating. I would love to know how she worked with one
hand for bobbins and one for pins. I wonder if it depends on the shape
of the pillow. As someone commented, she is just rolling them around
as they are suspended in air. I learned on a roller pillow with a flat
apron,
One person has suggested off list that the woman is a lefty, or
injured her hand in an accident. But I think that a lefty would put
the pins in with the left hand, because that is arguably the thing
that requires the most precision. When I was trying to make lace as
fast as possible, and it was Buc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwcSaAXtZsc is may favorite to date,
although at 1931, I wish it was a little bit earlier.
For Saint Catherine's Day, I tried to explore the lace tells, and to
that end, and with the help of arachne, located a Bucks Point pattern
that is simple and intuitive, then tr
The Hunterdon Art Museum which is putting on Lace, not Lace, has
recently been using QR codes on their labels so that people may put
their phones up to the code, and then see a video or youtube on the
phone. This is a really nice feature and is often used to show the
artist's process. I was discuss
I am writing the catalogue for Lace, not Lace. I have four artists who
hail from the Czech Republic, one from Slovenia, and one from Hungary.
I feel like there is an influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire that
I should acknowledge in the curatorial essay. I believe I have read
about an effort to
Reading Lin's email this morning I was eager to post International
Lace Day on the International Organization of Lace's facebook page. I
tried to confirm the date. I think that it is actually July 1, this
year. So there is still a little bit of time to organize your
lacemaking and to post about you
I posted another puzzling piece on laceioli.ning I am sure the ground,
which looks like needle lace is actually bobbin lace. But, I can't
quite figure out how it is done. Ideas?
http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history
Scroll down to get to my posting.
Devon
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Jeri asked, and perhaps this was sent to me privately, I am not sure
since I don't get her postings, whether there was a link between the
Needle and Bobbin Club and the International Organization of Lace
(formerly the International Old Lacers). I don't there was. Perhaps
others have knowledge that
The IOLI started as a small sub-group of the National Federation of
Doll Clubs. A few people were interested in dressing dolls in
historically correct lace. Also there seemed to be some evolving
interest in dressing in old lace by the members. My understanding is
that as lacemaking became more comm
I just posted some photos on ning.
http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history
This is a piece of what originally appeared to be mezzo punto. But I
think it is entirely bobbin lace. Perhaps, really, Milanese is the
proper identification. An interesting technique that at first looks
to be
at the Pacific National Exhibition every year, who
> caught the eye of the women who started the Vancouver Lace Club, which is now
> over 63 years old. So, D&D isn’t a huge organization, but has had a wider
> influence.
>
> Adele
> West Vancouver, BC
> (west coast of Canada
I am thinking/writing about the impact of the lace organizations in
transmitting lacemaking skills. Several of the artists in the show
benefited from learning opportunities offered by guilds.
The International Organization of Lace dates its start to 1953. I just
looked up The Lace Guild. It seems
It has been a while since I read it, but I found Monica Ferris's book
disappointing in terms of lacemaking. I remember thinking that she had
obviously researched this to the point of visiting a bobbin lacemaker
and watching what she did, and writing down how the lacemaker
described it. I thought th
One book that I have found quite fascinating is Three Generations in
the Honiton Lace Trade: A family history by Margaret Tomlinson. It is
about the Chick and Tucker families. Admittedly these people were
"management", but they worked in the lace business and there are a lot
of details about every
One concept that I seem to have gleaned from my reading is that the
lacemakers in England did well during the Napoleonic Wars because
trade with the continent was cut off. Then after the Napoleonic Wars
things became much worse for them. Perhaps their number swelled during
the period when people ha
Not that it is a work of history, but in the play âAsk for the Moonâ the
prospects for the illegitimate baby daughter of a lacemaker were so bleak
that her friends encouraged her to kill it.
Devon
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Also there was some old story, donât know the source, that when the wealthy
had trouble hiring servants they would conspire to not buy lace, thus
forcing the lace makers to go âinto serviceâ. Being in service was less
appealing.
Devon
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Maureen,
Thanks for placing this in time for us. It was the February
Revolution, the revolution that overthrew Louise Philippe that forced
the departure of the lace workers to Australia. From Wikipedia it
would appear that this led to Louise Napoleon, Napoleon III taking the
throne, and resulted in
Dear Debbie,
It may be the case that there really are not enough lacemaking scenes
in A Woman's Face to justify watching the entire movie, except that I
feel the general subject matter may appeal to the attendees. Similarly
the Scarlet Letter with Demi Moore has some wonderful lacemaking
scenes. I
I would like to suggest that it is William Felkin's book, A history of
the machine-wrought hosiery and lace manufactures that Jane is
referencing. It is written in a very amusing style in 1867.
I am quite interested in the example of lace that Alex posted on her
site that is part handmade and part
Yes, it was âA Womanâs Faceâ.
>From the various write-ups, it sounds like there isnât any lacemaking in
The Lacemaker, but I could be wrong.
Are there any other ideas for a movie night at a lace retreat?
Devon
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uns
I am going on a lace retreat and we are planning a movie night. Many,
many years ago I saw a movie, or part of a movie. It was in black and
white. It was a B picture, possibly film noir. It was set in the first
half of the 20th century, I think. There was a woman who made bobbin
lace on a flat pill
I have to regard with mixed feelings the fate of these "lacemakers"
who were expelled from France and then encouraged to go to Australia.
These were people who did not sit at the lace pillow plying bobbins,
or making a fabric composed of buttonhole stitches. Instead these are
the people who displa
Dear Sharon,
Go to this link; http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com/IOLI_2013_HVSCourses.pdf
Look at the second page of the class description. There are two leaves
in the upper left. They are virtually the same, but have to be worked
entirely differently, depending on where the pairs are entering, and
How would you characterize the Binche lace of Kumiko? Is it modern or
traditional? The style, Binche, is traditional, but the subject matter
is Teddy Bears and Balloons and other non-traditional things. Any
Nobens's Binche that she designed with timely themes often oriented
toward the location of t
Kathleen writes: I wonder if it is simply that bobbin lace appeals
particularly to scientists and especially mathematicians. Moving on
from this, is it the more “regular” laces which appeal, I.e. Torchon,
Bucks and Flanders, rather than Bedfordshire for instance?
Actually, I have always thought t
I have just returned from our day of lace at Yale British Art Gallery.
It was really great.
The event was inspired by an exhibit that is not in the Yale British
Art Gallery, but rather in the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript
Library. The exhibit is called Text and Textile. While waiting for the
ev
Dear Sharon,
If you want to see the obituary of a fascinating woman, here is the
link to the one that was written by Aurelia Loveman’s son.
https://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg43510.html
She put on a lace show at the Walters Art Gallery in 1988 in
Baltimore. Later she was instrumenta
Thank you Doris for drawing attention to this. I confess I have not
really examined the book very acutely since buying it new in 1973.
This blows my mind. I had been imagining that Gertrude Biederman was
cut in mold of others I knew in the era who were promoting
traditionalism in the form of reprod
I mistated the source of the article on Russian lacemaking. It was
Soviet Weekly, not the Daily Worker.
Devon
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When I was the IOLI Historian I wrote some pieces culled from
information in the earliest publications of the IOLI. I was intrigued
that in addition to Kaethe Kliot, there was another major lace figure
in San Francisco, Gertrude Biedermann, who espoused a more
traditionalist point of view on lace.
https://www.nytimes.com/1979/08/12/archives/lacemakers-preserving-an-ancient-delicate-art-it-kept-me-from-going.html
This is a link to an article that describes Michael and other people
making lace at the IOLI convention in NY in 1979.
Devon
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He is deceased. Sadly, I believe he was an early victim of AIDs.
Devon
On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 12:11 PM, Sharon Ghamari-Tabrizi
wrote:
> There was a young man from New York City who was interested in lace in the
> period? Michael Auclair? Does anyone know about him? Present or past? Any
> phone n
As I explore the route of contemporary lace in the late 20th century,
early 21st century, I am wondering about Lace 98 and what role it
played. Being in the US, I am only dimly aware of this group, but it
seems influential.
Devon
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Dear David.
I think the problem is two pronged. On the one hand the sender can
avoid the problem by sending in plain text, which in my case requires
me to go to the google mail internet site. On the other side, I think
there is an issue with the receiving person having some form of
outdated email p
I keep running across The English Lace School and Susan Cox. For some
reason I thought that the Sprigett's business had that name.
Can anyone explain the English Lace School and its role in the lace revival?
Devon
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Dear Jo,
This is fascinating. Thanks for sharing it.
Devon
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Dear Janice,
The one thing that everyone agrees on is that the Lolita fashion has
nothing to do with the book by Nabokov. Lolita seems to have the
meaning of "cute and elegant" in its fashion context.
It is a style, emanating from Japan that takes many forms. But, one
concept is that it is sort of
Dear Bev,
You seem to have a set of pdf's of the IOLI Bulletin? Are these
available somewhere?
The young man from New York City who teaches lacemaking would have
been Michael Auclair. He was very interested in the Ipswich laces, and
Irish laces, too, I think. He did some lace appraising, even for
m
I talked to Sharon Ghamari-Tabrizi the other day about her work of
fiction based on the lace world in New York in 1980. Sharon has only
recently turned to fiction. She has done a great deal of scientific
writing including a non-fiction book called "The Worlds of Herman
Kahn: The Intuitive Science o
I knew I was going to forget to go to the internet gmail site to send
the message in plain text, and I did. Here it is in plain text.
It is about Elena Kanagy-Loux. The article appears in Bust Magazine.
Debbie Stoller, also an Arachne member and Brooklyn Lace Guild member
is the editor of Bust and
Elena,
It crosses my mind that we should probably report to arachne that you
will be teaching a bobbin lace class at the House of Wax Bar in
Brooklyn on July 28th. The event which is likely to be of interest,
although not exclusively so, to the Goth and Lolita community will be
followed by a lectur
I meant "cross, twist, twist, twist" for point ground.
Also, I meant late 20th and early 21st century, instead of late 19th
and early 20th century for the rise of grounds that require starching.
I plead a sense of disorientation from using a new mail program. I
hope these are transmitting ok.
Devo
Alex makes some interesting points in her post about grounds. The fact
that we no longer have the finest of threads which enabled the
elaborate quatrefoil grounds of the early 18th century is a shame.
But, they are very much of the aesthetic of that era. i am not sure
why simple grounds like point
Jeri writes: The above is an illustration of how one of you might take
over some lace news reporting, so I can cut back.
I would like to reassure Jeri that in fact Elena and I do a great deal
of lace news reporting, but it is invisible to those people without
facebook or instagram. Some years ago t
Vis a vis the catalog for Lace, not Lace. I am including Veronika
Irvine in the show, and her interesting mathematically derived 21st
century grounds. However, as I was scrutinizing Pierre Fouche’s work,
Judgment of Paris II, which is also in the show, I realized, with his
help, that the ground in
This is how I received my own message on my aol account. (You set it up so it
goes to both my aol and gmail accounts.) I havenât gotten it yet on my gmail
account. It tends to come in much later on my gmail account.
But I just checked the email I sent yesterday. It is ok on the gmail account,
but
Dear Catherine,
I am truly grateful for the time you have spent on this.
Be assured I am asking the artists for their statements about the works.
It was the superficial and often misinformed treatment of lace by the
mainstream press that made me wonder what it would be like if someone who
actually
Her obituary claims it was written in the 1940s.
http://www.tulsaworld.com/archives/elsie-gubser-noted-weaver-dies-at/article_8f3f8c79-9cc8-5322-b855-a6c6a54838f6.html
Devon
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Lorelei says that â As for lace being white and having holes in it - my
personal definition has
to do with transparency or partial transparency and white just doesn't
matter. (Although white or a solid color focuses the attention on the
transparency aspect.)â
I have been fortunate to convince
Oops.
Sorry, Madame Laurie. Can’t wait to see your articles. Everyone save your
lobster claws.
Needle lace lives!
Devon
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Sue, your observation about taking a class in an adult school in England is
interesting. I think there was more of that in Great Britain than in the US at
the time. But, Holly van Sciver took an adult school class in England while
there for a college semester abroad. Eventually she was a large spur
May I also receive a photo? I think I may have some like this.
Devon
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Try looking up Optivisor.
I love mine.
Devon
>
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Dear Lorelei,
And I must voice my usual response that I am not at liberty to share better
photos over the internet. I will send you some privately, for study purposes
only, and not for publication.
It is not a part lace.
Devon
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Thanks Joepie.
I feel like Potten Kant is a larger category dealing with different laces
featuring a flower pot design. Am I wrong about this? This is a very
unusual, to me, lace. It does not have any kat stitch or point de Paris
type ground in it. Only linen and half stitch. I canât find it in m
I suppose you might say that the difference between lace made in Ipswich, MA
and that made in Ipswich, England is that the Ipswich, MA handmade lace
industry was the only handmade lace industry in the US, and thus quite an
anomaly, whereas the Ipswich, England handmade lace industry was one of m
Thanks Nancy!
Devon
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: N.A. Neff
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2017 7:05 PM
To: Lorelei Halley
Cc: DevonThein; Jeri Ames; Karen Thompson; Arachne
Subject: Re: [lace] Bucks point - on Ipswich-style Pillow at Smithsonian
Page has been sent to Lorelei, Devon, and Jeri
Thank you so much for this, Karen. The pictures of the lace, which you say was
made in the 1860s, but on an earlier pattern and equipment do not present an
whole hearted endorsement for the practice of not using pins in the ground. It
is sort of sloppy looking.
I took a quick look through the prick
Karen, have you tried working it without the pins?
Devon
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>From Jeri
--
From: jeria...@aol.com
To: www.l...@arachne.com
Sent: 11/3/2017 10:50:14 AM Eastern Standard Time
Subject: Life in Olney a Hundred Years Ago - Lace Tells Reference (Long
Post)
Subject is the sub-title of a book published in 1890 by Seeley and Co.,
Limite
I was wondering about whether it was the self rising flour that was the
problem. I wonder why you need more water in the US. Perhaps a humidity
issue?
I do have the recipe in the very pretty book about Cattern Cakes and
holidays, so no need to retype it.
What about beverages? I see that something
If Jeri would like to send her emails to me via my gmail address with the
notation that I should forward them to Arachne, I would be happy to do this.
Devon
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arachne.mode
Lace art by Agnes Herczeg is also surprisingly affordable.
I had already realized this while researching the contemporary lace show I
am curating at the Hunterdon Art Museum in New Jersey, when I was contacted
by a man looking for an anniversary gift for his wife for the " lace"
anniversary. They a
Dear Alex,
While I agree in spirit with your observation, I am in the somewhat unusual
situation of trying to review information in a museum data base, and determine
the best term for the technique. Interestingly, the data base has a separate
field for âcultureâ which gives the geographical ori
I think that the discussion of Bedfordshire lace, and the fact that it implies
a certain 19th century aesthetic goes to the heart of my unease about calling
Point dâAngleterre Brussels Bobbin Lace. It seems to me that the term Point
dâAngleterre, for all of its problems, implies a certain 18th
Alex says, âAs it is rare to find a piece that can be traced back to its
place of origin, perhaps we need to come to an agreement regarding
classification by technique, bearing in mind that lacemakers did not work
rigidly to a set of rules. The same technique may be found in laces made in
differe
I am very impressed with the link that Janice has provided.
https://www.advanced-embroidery-designs.com/cgi-bin/cart/store.cgi?keyword=bo
bbin+lace&action=search
Someone has gone to tremendous trouble to produce bobbin lace like designs
for machine embroidery. Usually, when artists produce a lace
<>
In fact, I think it is âchemical laceâ. The further instructions say that
you have to use something called Vilene Water Soluble Stabilizer. According to
a google search Water soluble embroidery stabilizers (WSS) will dissolve
completely when immersed in water leaving no backing at all. They
Youâre on. What should the subject be?
Devon
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Sue Babbs
Sent: Friday, June 9, 2017 9:35 AM
To: Devon Thein; 'Arachne reply'
Subject: Re: [lace] Custom machine lace
If you pay, Devon, I'll try it !! Grin!!
Sue
suebabbs...@gmail.com
-
To u
Angharad Rixon posted a link to this business on the Textile Support Facebook
page.
https://www.contrado.com/custom-lace-fabric-material
It appears that just as the possibility for designing your own printed fabrics
has been available for a while, it is now possible to design your own machine
made
Next time use the term "off loom weaving".
Devon
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>
Good point, Nancy. There was a lot of Battenberg and Princess Lace then,
also embroidered filet. Of course that is why it would be instructive to
know if the research is directed to what people were wearing, or what
people were doing in terms of handwork.
Considering the characters, I can't see Mar
My guess would be that they were making revival era lace like everyone else
in 1908. So, winging it here, I would suggest cluny style laces that look
medieval. But, really, a very relavent question is "why do you want to
know?" Are you advising a stage or screen version of Anne?
Devon
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Check with the IOLI librarian librar...@internationalorganizationoflace.org
On Tuesday, October 4, 2016, Susan wrote:
> Forgot to ask--can anyone confirm that the IOLI library maintains back
> issues of Lace magazine published by The Lace Guild UK? Many thanks.
> Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA
>
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