Stus-List Instrument Displays turning dark

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

FYI.  A couple of years ago a guy who had circumnavigated mentioned to 
me that his B instrument displays were turning dark.   My old Nexus-2 
displays were doing the same.  I actually swapped displays around 
because the most important multifunction for me is the one over the 
companionway.


I discovered that if the back-light was on I could see them during the 
day.  That worked for the one at the nav station, so I put the darkest 
display there.  The one at the helm I just disconnected.


My gut feeling, after observation, was that constant UV was corrupting 
the polarizing coating.


After a couple of years, I have noticed that the display is again clear 
in the nav station.  I also put those little plastic covers over the 
displays over the companionway.  Perhaps the polarizing coating can heal 
itself.  I dunno... still watching and learning. I left the covers off 
because I was always moving, but my performance cruiser seems to have 
become a performance dock condo.  It's all her fault.


Anyway, right now I think it's a good idea to keep the covers on.

I don't know why they put polarizing coatings on the instruments.  We 
all wear polarizing sunglasses.  In combination, you end up twisting 
your head around just to read the display.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com
facebook.com/wally.stellablue
facebook.com/svstellablue t


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Re: Stus-List JABSCO DIAGHRAM PUMP

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Well, they don't clog up as much with hair and crud.  But sharp little 
bits of crud will damage the diaphragm.  And eventually you'll need to 
replace the diaphragm.


People who don't replace diaphragms every now and then are called 
mothers.  


How old is the pump?

Wal


Alex wrote:

So, what is the advantage of diaphragm pumps?



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Stus-List Wow. 4857 emails on the C list.

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Okay,  clearly I'm not keeping up.  And after not updating my web site 
in nearly two years (for technical reasons) I finally put up a Facebook 
page, because I wanted to tell the story about how I almost lost Stella 
Blue.


I'm pretty sure the URL is   Please 
don't ask me to be your 'friend' unless you actually know me.  This 
whole Face Book thing has almost made me throw my computer and phone 
into the pool. I can count my friends on my toes, and no one in the 
world can really have thousands of friends.  Literally 20 seconds after 
I signed up, some real friends are sending me messages.  Then I start 
getting invites from old girlfriends from the 1970's.  Heck, it took me 
10 years to forget some of them, I don't need any reminders.  And 
somebody from the University of Nigeria wants me to help him transfer a 
bunch of money...


And folks wonder why I checked out and have been hiding on my boat in 
Mexico.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List [Support] Re: Question on PredictWind.com

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Jon -

Thanks for that upgrade.  I'll check it out.

I was going to upgrade to Win 10 after I sailed to La Paz, since I use 
the machine to navigate and didn't want to take any risks with software 
not working.  But, I see the offer expires in 13 hours, so what the 
heck.  I just did a full system backup yesterday, and if there's a 
problem I can quickly rebuild the current Win 8 system.  Besides, I have 
two backup computers and an entirely different marine chartplotter and 
three separate GPS systems... Single handed sailors tend to be fussy 
about safety.


Wal


On 7/27/2016 6:27 PM, Support wrote:

  ##- Please type your reply above this line -##

[image: Jon Bilger]

*Jon Bilger* (Support)

Jul 28, 11:27 NZST

Hi Wal,

I understand the dilemma I have upgraded your account to the Standard
for free - I hope this helps!
I see you are on Windows 8.1 - I would recommend you upgrade to Windows 10
- it is free upgrade until the end of the month. The Offshore App works
okay on Windows 8.1, but is optimised for Windows 10

Kind Regards,

Jon Bilger

[image: Wal]

*Wal*

Jul 28, 05:56 NZST

This is a follow-up to your previous request #25052
 "Question on
PredictWind.com"

Thanks Jon -

Yes, that answered my question. I'm not entirely pleased, because I
will have to upgrade my account to get high resolution gribs that would
be equivalent to what I get with the web interface. i navigate with
Fugawi 4.5, which can load gribs and overlay them on the charts, and
have many sources for gribs. But I've always enjoyed the PDF files that
store the web displays, with color contours and high resolution. I'll
probably just use the snipper tool to grab screen shots and merge them
into a .jpg.

While I've been a full time cruiser since 2009, I'm really just cruising
around Pacific Mexico, and use cellular for internet access using the
phone as a WiFi hotspot. On the mainland it's easy to get a good
cellular connection within 10 miles of shore, and the only time I need a
long term forecast is if I decide to head out a hundred miles and tack
back. However, the crossing over to Baja takes a few days, and up into
the Sea of Cortez you can go a week or more without internet access.
Thus I like to cache a good long term forecast. Oh well, I'll keep
working on it.

Best regards,
Wal
This email is a service from Support.


 
 
[1VKYWW-LXZN]




--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Ping Wally

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Umm...  you don't want to know.

I haven't updated the web site in two years because my web tools don't 
work under current OS versions. Or maybe I'm having too much life to 
care.  Or both.


Anyway, it's hurricane season and the storms are starting.  This time of 
year they start south and tend to head west, but throw up some good 
southerly breezes if they're a few hundred miles away. So I'm going to 
head north a few hundred or thousand miles.


I will be crying when I round the point.  That's what happens when you 
stay in one place too long.


Cuidate,
Wal




Fred wrote:

Shh… he’s in Tequilaville.  Don’t wake him…   :^)

On Apr 25, 2016, Stevan  wrote:

Hey Wally, where've you been? It's hard to live vicariously through you when 
you don't post to the list!




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Stus-List 818 messages...

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Hey, Happy Holidays. Yes, I've been AWOL.   I've had messages pile up, 
but 818 on this list has to be a record.  I'll do a quick scan and see 
if I have anything to add.


2015 was a weird year, with surgeries and pregnant women and lots of 
tequila and market corrections and stuff.  I'm hoping 2016 will be 
better, although in retrospect I'm still living a life most only dream of.


Wal

s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com

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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I had to replace a couple of ruined panels, and used foam PVC.  It's 
very light weight.  Here's a link to the project:




Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Patricia Category 5 Ping Wally

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Thanks Steve -

By now you know that it was very intense at the point of landfall, but 
I'm about 100 miles north and protected by the Sierra Madres. Everyone 
did get into a tizzy of preparation, in case it turned north, but it was 
just rain for us.  We were on the high pressure side, with the wind 
coming from the east over land, and the mountains just blocked 
everything except rain from the outer bands.


I needed to take the awnings down anyway, as sailing season is 
starting.  I'll head down to Santiago/Manzanillo in a while to visit a 
friend or two, as they were on the south side and much closer, so 
probably got slammed by surge.


Wal


On 10/23/2015 7:11 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

   Hey Wally,
 I think, and I certainly hope!, that you are well north of 
the projected path.
   Any news on the expected effects and preparations underway where you are?




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Re: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yes, I installed it in 2001, and have never used it.

Wal


Rich wrote:

Anyone got a strobe at the masthead?



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Stus-List Vote for us - Summer Sailstice Video Contest

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Our downwind umbrella race made it as one of the six finalists in the 
Harken Sailstice contest.


(http://www.summersailstice.com/harkenvideocontest  )

Please vote for us. If we win something, we'll auction it off during high 
season (when the snowbirds get here) and give the proceeds to the local 'Manos 
de Amor' (hands of love) orphanage.

BTW, I'm the kayak with the sail made from women's lingerie, that was bumped 
and dumped rather early in the race.  We ran the race again on the 31st, just 
so I could finish.  There's a video of that, too, but I need to update my web 
site.

Wal


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Re: Stus-List Windlass info

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Andrew wrote:

Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will
handle both rope and chain.


Yup.  Give me a moment, I'll get to the point.

I just gave away the ATN Gale Sail that Fred gave (sold) me many years ago.

I've been through enough slop on this boat to know that by the time I 
need to rig that thing the *last* place I want to be is up on the 
foredeck.  And I've also sailed this boat through enough slop to know 
how to handle it under reefed main alone.  The LF38 handles pretty well.


So why give the sail away?  Well, I gave it to a local dude who runs the 
North Sails shop down here, does the weather every day on the VHF net, 
and will always be a friend.  Friends are hard to find, although in this 
internet/social networking world the word 'friend' has been seriously 
diluted.


Oh, but to the point regarding windlasses.  When I gave the sail away, 
and was asked why, I made the comment about the foredeck being the last 
place I want to be.  Then I muttered something about breaking my teeth 
on the windlass.  The folks who understood laughed.


To take it full circle to the point, I agree with Andrew's comment about 
the value of a low profile.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan...

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Well, this was a bit of installation hoopla G  but it works great. I 
have one in the fridge and another in the freezer.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/galley/pipefan/index.htm

Wal

David wrote:

My new refrigeration is doing quite well. However I would like to better 
circulate air within the box to equalize temps. Trying to avoid hard wiring and 
want to know if anyone has found a low amp battery powered fan that I can turn 
on when needed without a lot installation hoopla...

Thanks in advance.




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Re: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

That's okay, I was going to make the same joke.   I save these in case I 
bring the boat back to the US and need to argue with the local 
government about property taxes.


Wal

James wrote:

You mean someone like Wally? Just kidding!!

From: PME via CnC-List

Yea, there’s likely some FOOL thinking what a great deal and what a fun project 
that would be to fix her up.   And before we know it,  he/she will be posting 
on the list….



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Re: Stus-List Original oven and propane stove removed

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Peter - I'd recommend keeping the stove in the garage and putting it 
back in before you sell the boat.   Wal


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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Everything everyone else said is good.

My 2 cents: sometimes a tiny break in a wire or contact will prevent 
current from flowing, but after a few seconds of power the wire heats up 
from the resistance and expands enough to close the circuit.  Wire does 
get old.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Multiplexer

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I've had good luck with my Brookhouse. http://brookhouseonline.com/ I 
just checked the site and see they've added some WiFi and Bluetooth 
accessories.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Yacht Canvas/Bimini Top

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Joel - If you plan to reuse the stainless your old bimini is a pattern 
that any local canvas shop can duplicate with minimal effort.  I'd look 
at cost of materials and a day's labor, plus overhead.


Wal

You wrote:

my 32 year old bimini top is looking ragged.  snip


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Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Roger that!

Popeye



Dennis  wrote:

I tried most.  Now I use olive oil.



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Re: Stus-List Intimidating Music (hee hee)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

John wrote:

Theme from jaws?


You might not believe it, but we're going to have a Jaws movie night 
here, where everyone has to sit in the water, in an inner tube, PFD, or 
other floaty thing.  If you dangle your legs in the water you win a 
prize.  Yup, there's nothing to do in Mexico but drink tequila and gaze 
into big brown eyes.


Martin wrote:


Or is that Pork Lips Now?


Hmmm.  Reminds me of that famous Credence song...  There's a bathroom 
on the right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BmEGm-mraE


John wrote:

Depends on the political sensitivity of your competition. You may simply wish to play 
Dixie.

Everyone's thinking it, I'm just saying it...


Right.  I understand that Donald Duck is having a Twitter war with El 
Charo, and a late night talk show host said This is the first time that 
all Americans are rooting for a Mexican drug lord. (Actually I think 
he's a closet Democrat and is playing the demagogue to influence the 
election, and doesn't care what anyone thinks about him.)


Jean-Francois wrote:


Nothing like the Dance of the Valkyries..  It's Apocalypse Now for my 
competition..


Well, I'm not a racer.  But one time a long time ago I was single 
handing close hauled into 25 knots, and the boat was perfectly balanced 
so I could dance in the cockpit.  And Elvis Costello came on the 
stereo.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpprOGsLWUo Pump it up.  
Somehow it fit the moment perfectly and I always grin when I hear the song.


Hee hee.  Gee, it's noon.  I'd better start thinking about breakfast.

Wal




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Re: Stus-List Someone got a good deal

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Sheesh.  If this keeps up I'll have to pay someone to take Stella Blue.

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Re: Stus-List (totally non sailing related) recovery

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

No I mean it was really funny.

The surgery was actually fun, but the recovery was brutal.  If I could 
do it again I probably would have tried the laparoscopic procedure.  
(Intuitive Surgical was actually one of my clients for years...)  The 
surgeon told me that there was less chance of nerve damage with the 
classic procedure. Ha.  Besides, the whole thing was an out-of-pocket 
expense. Welcome to cruising outside of the US and Canada.


They definitely do things differently down here.  The nurses were a lot 
of fun.  I was totally out for the actual surgery, but the preparation 
was wild.  Those nurses just walked in, pulled up the gown, held my arms 
down to the table while they stuck the IV in my arm (it took five tries, 
because she wasn't looking at my arm...) and while they wrapped my legs 
up with tape kept staring at the shaved area.  Apparently there aren't 
that many natural blondes down here.


That should have been humiliating, but they kept giggling and trying to 
make conversation.  Are you married? (no)  Divorced? (no) Why aren't 
you married?  (no quiero una esposa) Tienes una novia?  (no al momento)  
giggles Quieres una novia? (si, porque no)  Tienes ninos? (no) Porque 
no? (obviously not because I *can't*)


Post Op was brutal.  I had pain killers, but stopped taking them after a 
day because they worked too well and I was afraid I'd forget, try to 
pick something up or jump off the boat and rip myself back open.  So for 
a week or so I literally had to crawl on and off the boat.  And the rest 
of the story will remain untold until I find a way to make it funny.


Wal



you wrote:

Wal,
Funny stuff.

snipEveryone is different but I had the Hernia operation at 58. snip


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Re: Stus-List 2015 Sailstice umbrella race

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Okay, here's the LAT38 link 
http://www.latitude38.com/lectronic/lectronicday.lasso?date=2015-06-24dayid=1232#Story2


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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Oh my gosh, that was me.

Once upon a time, in a land far far away, I got really into doing 
everything as perfect as possible.   Then I was forced to make 
compromises, because I was never actually going to go cruising if I 
didn't finish off the list.  So structurally sound was the top priority, 
and cosmetics came second.


I have a great deal of home made teak work on board 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/trickwood/trkwd.htm and 
after some time just used straight Minwax Marine Spar
Varnish.  (I would *not* use it on the exterior.  'Spar' is a marketing 
term for Minwax.)  As it ages it gets darker and redder, and after 10 
years I can't tell the difference.  I suppose if you look really close 
you can tell, but I don't care and no one has ever commented on it.


The most important thing is to get the job done well and go sailing.

Wal



You wrote:
 snip A lister contributed a very good stain match years ago - I 
wish I'd saved his name
 to credit his trial and error efforts, but the recipe is Minwax Wood 
Finish (Stain) 1 part Provincial (211)
 2 parts Golden Pecan (245) 2 parts Colonial Maple (223) I've sanded 
dinged, worn, or stained solid teak bits,
 and very very carefully very fine sanded some of the teak veneer 
panels, then wiped on this stain mix,
 let stand a few minutes, and wiped off. The results look like an 
EXACT color match on my boat. I now keep a can

 of this mix made up for all touch up work inside. snip

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Stus-List 2015 Sailstice umbrella race

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

So... For the marina's annual Sailsticecelebration we had a 'Downwind 
Umbrella Race,' where you can sail using anything but an actual sail.  I 
made a joke (who, me?) about sewing my own sail out of women's 
underwear.  Women started giving me underwear, so I was committed.


It took me three days, sitting in my bunk watching movies, surrounded by 
piles of women's lingerie, sewing and hot gluing.

http://www.wbryant.com/temp/2015sailstice/sail.jpg

Here's a shot of the start, although the sail doesn't look as good from 
the back.

http://www.wbryant.com/temp/2015sailstice/start1.jpg

Here's a low quality front shot: 
http://www.wbryant.com/temp/2015sailstice/start2.jpg
It worked really well, and you can almost see how the legs of the two 
bloomers fly out in front.  That helped to depower the rig, because it 
was blowing about 10-15 knots in the afternoon thermal push, and 
everybody was out of control.


Unfortunately my helmswoman, while cute and a lot of fun, had never been 
in a kayak or held a paddle before, and didn't understand the concept of 
downwind, or that her job was to steer the boat. As a consequence, when 
we were T-Boned from port and pushed off course, she paddled on the 
wrong side and turned us broadside to the breeze.  That rig cannot 
handle a reach.  So I won a prize for 'most spectacular wipe out' as 
well as 'most creative entry.'


There was one of those RC drones in the air taking video, and I've seen 
that.  I've also seen some really good high quality pictures including a 
5 shot rapid series of the actual wipe-out.  However the owners of those 
pics aren't giving them away yet, as they're being sent to Latitude38 
and summersailstice.com and who knows where else.


I was pretty bummed out about the wipe-out so early in the race, because 
I could tell that that rig could sail.  However, I've been told that 
we're going to do it again later this summer, just for fun.


Wal



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Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

If you can get the exact same engine I'd do it.  It will minimize issues 
with the engine stringers and mounts, and alignment.  I'm assuming you 
were happy with your existing engine (when it was working.)


I replaced my Perkins 4-108, which in my opinion had no business being 
on this boat, and it was a year long project.  So minimizing hassles is 
important.


And just to make you feel better: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/repower/index.htm


Wal

you wrote:

Anyone have any advice, experience or comments with any of these options. If it 
were you, what would you do?



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Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yup.  My best results are with squid lures of the Mexican flag colors.  
Red White Green.  No kidding. I use a hand line with 100 pound test.  
It's not fair, but I'm not fishing for sport.


Wal

Fred wrote:

The mahi seem to favor neon-green squid lures.  I think we had a 40-lb nylon 
hand line out with a stainless leader and the squid.



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Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Petar wrote:

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml


Petar - I've heard nothing but good things about the Tides marina track, 
and wish I'd put it on Stella Blue.  I was in the middle of a total rig 
rebuild, though, and didn't want to spend the money. Instead, I went 
with this: http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/fyi/slugs/slugs.htm  It 
works for me, but I'm tall enough to reach.  They make the main stack up 
pretty high.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List GAFF - Offshore fishing tips?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I have one of these things: http://www.wbryant.com/temp/gaff.jpg  It's 
actually a gaff for spear fishing, designed to be clipped to your weight 
belt or BCD.  When fishing under way, it's great because you can slip 
the gaff through the gills and the fish is secure while you remove the 
hook while still leaning over the stern.  You can also just let it go, 
and drag the fish behind the boat while dealing with sails or other 
important things.  As a single hander, I am used to being busy with the 
boat when suddenly a monster Dorado hits.


Also, I'll just pull the fish up to the stern and slash the gills with a 
knife, then let the fish bleed out while dragging behind the boat.  It 
minimizes bloody mess in the cockpit.


Wal


you wrote:

The gaff or winch handle is dangerous and messy on board.



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Re: Stus-List Interior teak finish

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

You wrote:

I use lard. If we cook bacon on the boat, I will also smear some bacon fat
around the bottom of the bulkheads to protect them.


Now that's not fair.  Dude, somebody might actually try that.  It will 
smell.


Here's the real scoop.  I recently had hernia surgery, and the surgeon 
also specializes in weight reduction gastric stuff and liposuction.  He 
cut me a deal on human lipostuff, which is the best thing to smear all 
over the interior teak of your boat.


Oh, never mind...

Actually, I might be the only person who could write a 10 minute comedy 
routine about hernia surgery.  For now, I'll just say that from now on 
I'll be paying someone to replace my batteries. Getting old sucks.


Wal
currently still lying in La Cruz


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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Brad.  Fix it.  It will cost you more later, unless you plan to sell and 
have no soul.



you wrote:

snip My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a 
loose
coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?




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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Rick - That's a 25 kg Rocna, or 55 pounds.   With 300 feet of chain 
that's a lot of weight in the bow, but I removed the 40 gallon water 
tank in the V Berth and converted that area to storage, so the boat 
still sits on its lines.


Wal

Rick wrote:

Is that 55kg Rocna? with 300 ft of chain?

I wrote:

As Rick and others have said, 35 pounds should work for your stated use.  I 
used a 35 Delta in SF Bay for years, although the bottom there was sticky mud.

For long term cruising I have a 55 Rocna with 300 feet of chain, and that has 
held in 50 with gusts to 70.  But that's a different use.



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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

As Rick and others have said, 35 pounds should work for your stated 
use.  I used a 35 Delta in SF Bay for years, although the bottom there 
was sticky mud.


For long term cruising I have a 55 Rocna with 300 feet of chain, and 
that has held in 50 with gusts to 70.  But that's a different use.


Wal
LF38

Rick wrote:

That said, when I was day sailing and weekend cruising, as you describe,
with stops for lunch or swimming and nights in local protected coves, my
only anchor was the 35 CQR with 35 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon. So
your proposed arrangement should be OK  for that limited purpose. If you
range more widely and start to run into more adverse  conditions, you should
think about upgrading the ground tackle.



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Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Get another CC?

Rich wrote:

I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. snip



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Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

http://www.amazon.com/Starbrite-Tropical-Teak-Classic-Dark/dp/B00DNBGCC8

That's the teak oil I use on my cockpit seat, because varnish is too 
slippery.  It holds up well.


I painted everything else.  The funny thing about paint is people ask me 
if it's Cetol.


Wal



On 5/23/2015 4:39 PM, davidrisch75 via CnC-List wrote:

Done with sanding and varnish. What say you?



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Ahh, yes, the old condom in the hot tub pump problem.


you wrote:

snip  I had a hot tub that
would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug!



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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt problem 35-3

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I made new ones from G10 fiberglass. see 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/hauls/0811/k011.jpg G10 handles 
compression loads very well.  It has held up for 7 years, and I don't 
see a problem.  If yours are wedged shaped, machining the material to 
fit can be a challenge.  Also, if your 'spacer' cracked it may have been 
because it was bridging over a gap or uneven spot in the bilge.  G10 
does *not* handle that kind of stress well, either.  I broke one of my 
little spacers because it was supported on the ends but had some air in 
the middle around the bolt.  I made a new spacer, set some epoxy 
thickened with colloidal silica around the problem area, and put the 
spacer down with some waxed paper underneath to avoid epoxying the thing 
into the boat. I used the nut to press the spacer into place and ensure 
that it was aligned right with the bolt.  After everything cured, I 
pulled it up, and when we set the keel for good we caulked the living 
heck out of it.


Note that I didn't have the spacer things before.  I set them there to 
keep the nuts and washers off the bilge floor, so they wouldn't sit in 
standing water.


Wal



On 5/16/2015 5:26 PM, scott gary via CnC-List wrote:

  Hello Listers, I was tightening my keel bolts on my 35-3 before launch when I 
heard a crack.



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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

Steve:
 Instantly, now I feel stupid


Welcome to the club.


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Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

ship... Project by all means.  Always liked the LF38. Looking for a long term 
project cruising boat for a few years from now.  I know, don't say it.


I'll say it.  Don't get me started.  VBG

I wish I had saved a copy of my project list from 2001, when I bought 
Stella Blue.  It evolved into the project page: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/projlist.htm


I easily spent twice what I spent for the boat before it was ready for 
my intended purpose.  On the other hand, I know every nut, bolt, screw 
and wire on the boat.  That comes in handy.


60K is pretty high.  I hate to say it, but there isn't a lot of demand 
for good sailing boats that don't double as dock condos.


Before you buy a project boat, you need to have your head in the right 
place.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I'm not sure that it really matters.  That telephone pole mast is still 
pretty flexible, and once it's set in the collar the rake is entirely 
controlled by the rig.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Okay, I'm grinning.  Now we have ammeters, voltmeters, and ohmmeters.  
Let's all just have a beer and admit that we don't really understand 
anything at all. VBG


I have noticed that when the house bank is low, my WEMA fuel gauge also 
reads low.  I've always wondered why, and figured that it had something 
to do with the voltage differential between positive and ground on the 
house bank somehow affecting the differential between the two on the 
starting bank.  The fuel sensor is definitely wired into the starting 
bank side of things, since it's involved with the whole engine thing.


I'm not a geek, but I suppose I was one once.  I have been drunk now for 
over two weeks, and some people say that there's a woman to blame.  Uh 
Oh, one must be in trouble when one gets Jimmy Buffet lyrics mixed up.


I gotta go fix dinner.

Wal


you wrote:

Josh,

This is certainly not sailing related, but if i remember it correctly, they are 
all really ammeters (the current flowing through them creates the magnetic 
field that moves the needle).

Marek


Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

All analog meters are just measuring the voltage drop across a
resistance.  The key is to have the appropriate voltage input +12v.  If the
+12v and the sensing line were reversed then the voltage drop would be
negative driving the needle to the empty peg.

Josh
I wrote:


I thought they were Ohm meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to make sure,
and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel sender resistance.

Wal




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Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I thought they were Ohm meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to make sure, 
and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel sender resistance.


Wal

you wrote:

I agree with your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed polarity...of the
sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the fuel gages are just voltage meters.  They
respond proportionally to the voltage drop across the variable resistance
in the sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm meter to
measure and validate the resistance of the senders.  Switching the polarity
of the sense and gnd monetarily probably won't break anything.  Before
doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached picture.



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Re: Stus-List CC 35-3 Keel Joint

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I've said this before and I'll say it again...  It's only called the C$C 
smile because CC made so many boats, most of which are still active and 
sailing.  Many boats with swept fin keels develop a crack on the leading 
edge for a few reasons.  Hitting something.  Storage with the weight on 
the trailing edge of the keel that makes the entire keel turn into a 
lever weakening the sealant around the leading bolts.  Etcetera.


Wal

Jake wrote:

snip The “CC Smile” as it is known, often appears as the hull to keel joint opens 
up. snip




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Re: Stus-List New foredeck hatch

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Maybe some scrap wood and clamps would help the router stay under 
control.  Else I'd use a sabre saw to trace the outline.  Carbonite bits 
cut through fiberglass well. Good caulk fixes many minor errors.


Sorry if someone else already said this...  I'm about 145 emails behind.

Wal

On 3/27/2015 12:45 PM, O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

I decided to use a router and made a template.  Tried that yesterday  and found 
the deck is tough, with solid epoxy between the skins.  The router basically 
bounced off.  I did it from underneath because the hatch sits in a recess 
topside.  I probably won't try that again as I couldn't the router.

Before I hack up my deck and any body parts, checking with this group for 
comments or ideas?



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List deck drains (was: Bilge pump)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

On Pegasus, my deck drains go to a thru-hull under the galley sink. This year I 
am going to reroute them to thru-hulls just below the toe rails.


That's what I did and it did not work out well.  (My last email had a 
comment about my big idea being totally sub-optimal.)  I ran them a bit 
aft, where I had access, but the hoses have a loop that catches dirt and 
dead fish and used condoms.  (Okay, that last inappropriate comment was 
a bit of a stretch.)


If I were to do that job again under the constraints I was working with, 
I should have added a *flush* through hull about six inches or so below 
the drain, so it would have a vertical drop and overboard yet still be 
able to handle the bend radius of quality hose.  I say *flush*, because 
that's right amidships, and if you bump a piling or another boat (or if 
another boat bumps *you*) you really don't want a protrusion on the hull 
right there.   I thought about it at the time, but was really busy with 
work, so just did what I had to do.  The objective was to get the boat 
ready to go cruising, not to have the perfect boat, and over the years I 
don't regret focusing on the objective.  It's not structural, it'll 
never sink the boat, and so I can live with it. I just take a hose and 
stick it full blast on the drain and watch the nasty stuff get pushed 
out, then take the hose and back flush it, and watch more nasty stuff 
pop up backwards, and smile and get on with life.


Heck, if I wanted everything to be just exactly perfect I'd still be 
working.  And if I had a dollar for every time I said It's not perfect, 
but it's structurally sound and doesn't create a danger I'd be retired 
and living in Mexico...


Big big grins,
Wal
s/v Stella Blue currently in Banderas Bay again and again and again

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Re: Stus-List LF38 deck drains (was: Bilge pump)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

My LF38 had them Tied and Teed into the galley sink drain.  I didn't 
like that.  When I replaced all my hoses I couldn't access the port one 
as it was run behind the ice box and wouldn't move, so I plugged up the 
drain for a while and thought about it.  I didn't think about it long 
enough, as my solution is so totally sub-optimal that I won't bother 
describing it.


I have added drains through the teak toe rails, by carefully working a 
hole saw right at deck level through the teak, and epoxying a section of 
PVC in there, sanding it flush and painting it.  That actually works 
great.  If I ever paint my deck, I'll take those amidships drains and 
glass them flush, and add two drains through the toe rail amidships.


Wal

Bob wrote:

The CC Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck drains that 
drained into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains drained overboard.  During the 
winter, these two midship deck drains can accumulate a lot of water in the bilge.  So, 
not all CC's can simply use manually operated bilge pumps (unless you are living 
aboard and pay close attention to the bilge level).  Also, any antifreeze mixture in 
the bilge will get diluted quite quickly.



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Re: Stus-List Underwear (was deck drains, was bilge pumps)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

One of my funniest moments in the last year was when I walked back into 
a marina office and said Oh, I forgot what I was here for. Heck, I 
would forget my own name if it wasn't written on my underwear.


I heard later that two of the girls started giggling and said he 
doesn't wear underwear.


Okay, I need to fix dinner.

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Re: Stus-List CC ball caps

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I'm currently in 12.4 feet of ca-ca.


Rick  wrote:

If you’re having senior moments at age 50 you might be in deep ca-ca. For the 
rest of us it seems to happen about age 64.




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Re: Stus-List LF 38 stemhead casting vs forestay attachment

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

My LF38 forestay was just attached to the cast aluminum bow rollers, 
which were bolted to a large backing plate glassed into the deck.  All 
the forestay stress was placed on two tabs of cast aluminum, which 
caused me a great deal of worry.  I've since replaced it with a SS plate 
and rollers, which also wraps down over the bow and is bolted to the hull.


So I'd take a really good look at it.  It looks like there is more than 
one configuration.


Wal


On 3/16/2015 8:03 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:

As I recall, the forestay is connected to this piece via a tang but there is 
structural attachment to the hull just below it.



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Re: Stus-List OFF-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Why?  They might be nurses.


On 3/14/2015 11:08 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Wally,

If you see people in white coats heading your way, RUN!



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List LUDDITES UNTIE (was Email List or Forum)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

My iPhone and my iPad have been set to thread view and it doesn't eliminate 
the copied text.

I think it's about time for me to start fixing dinner...

A month ago I saw someone with this really cool thing and I said what's 
that and she looked at me like I was an idiot and said It's an Ipad.  
I haven't had a phone in six years.  You don't know how wonderful that is.


Gotta go.  Yes, there are 105 emails on this list waiting, but I don't 
have a problem with that.


Wal


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Re: Stus-List TefGel - was 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Personally, I think you should always have TefGel on board.  I find 
myself using it often, as it's famous for avoiding corrosion between 
dissimilar metals.


However, for electrical connections I believe that dielectric silicone 
will work fine.  I also have that on board.  These days I use SuperLube 
Dielectric Silicone, which is much cheaper than Ancor and so far has not 
let me down.


Wal


Rick wrote:

Before I order TefGel using Dennis’ link, can anyone comment on the differences 
between that and the suggested alternates, or the suitability of the 
alternatives?



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Re: Stus-List How to run jacklines on an LF38.

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/deck/jackline/index.htm


you wrote:

I need 'em for the NE voyage. The mast is 16+ ft back from the bow. Theres a 
good, sturdy eye near the bow. I can run them to the cabintop handrails at the 
cockpit, but that seems strange. Suggestions, please.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Jim wrote:

Be very careful with snubbers. snip
Right.  I use a single snubber, tied on with a modified rolling hitch.  
It has held fine in 50 with gusts to 70, but after that it was about 
four feet longer.  Now it's a dock line, and I have a new snubber.  
(Actually, I'm a few snubbers past that.)  The whole 'snubber hook' 
thing is just a way to take your money.  I'm totally into the rolling 
hitch, which has never failed and doesn't place the strain on a single 
link.


I also truly am signed up for the cheap (relatively) 8 strand single 
braid that is just as strong as three strand braided rope but doesn't 
turn into a ball of nylon when you swing around for a few weeks or months.


The good thing about the rolling hitch is that you can let the snubber 
loose and it will stay attached.  When it gets ugly and you need to let 
out scope to avoid bigger issues, you can just let it go and tie on 
another snubber with a rolling hitch and save the boat.


Wal


--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

All of the advice given is good.  I don't have a Life Raft but there was 
no question about an Epirb.  I also sail with my dinghy fully inflated 
on the foredeck, with snap releases on the tie downs, and the painter 
snapped to a padeye so it won't blow away in bad conditions.


Speaking of tying things down, I was sailing through the same stuff as 
J-World on the 2009 haha when she hit a whale, and one thing I remember 
from that is that they tossed the ditch bag on deck and it promptly blew 
overboard.  So I have a tether on my ditch bag.


Knowing and trusting your boat is important.  I've been at the helm at 
night with whitecaps as high as my spreaders, looking back and saying 
the eff word, but never felt that the boat couldn't handle it.


The weather window thing is important, too.  If that little voice in 
your head says 'no' then wait.


I think it's your call.  I wouldn't cross an ocean without a life raft, 
because I read that book about the guy who spent 72 days alone in a life 
raft and that really sounded like fun.  That's why I still have my 
fluorescent kayak attached to the dink when off shore.  It hurts my back 
and I haven't used it in years, but it's unsinkable and highly visible.


There's a part of me that's a bit fatalistic, and if the boat goes down 
with everything I own on board then I figure I should just go too.  On 
the other hand, I've been close to death more than twice and every time 
I was thinking 'no, not now, I'm not ready, I just thought I was. I want 
to LIVE'  VBG


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I vote list.  1) Sometimes I can't get good web access on the boat. 2) 
More importantly, the forum format makes it easy to ignore topics, and I 
learn a lot listening to folks with problems/solutions that don't 
initially seem to be relevant.  3) We would need a forum for drunken rants.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I can't address the original question, but to Doug's comment I also 
swear by 'Knytex,' which is a trade name from one manufacturer.  It's 
biaxial with mat sewn together, without the binders that limit one to 
polyester resins.  Once I discovered it, I never used anything else.  
You can lay up really strong layers fast, and for things like tabbing in 
new bulkheads you only need one slap.  I used it to epoxy my lead keel 
to the stub.


Wal


Doug wrote:

A friend of mine that does a lot of glass work swears by the Bi-axial cloth
and epoxy resin.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Huh?

On 3/12/2015 12:49 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:

I will look into some of those glass options as the floor of the cockpit needs 
to be rebuilt



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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Too late for that.

I have a Garhauer vang.

Garhauer locked up a contract with Catalina some time ago, which I 
believe provided them with enough of a predictable and significant 
revenue stream to staff up and provide a good customer service staff.  
Frankly, before they landed that contract they already had a great 
reputation for quality and service, although the hardware was a bit heavy.


I honestly don't know what is going on up north.  I hear that there will 
be an election up in the USA in a year or two or three.  VBG


Maybe everything has changed, but frankly I love those folks.

Wal



Marek wrote:

+1 on that.

But I am not sure if we should spread the word too far. We risk that everyone 
would flock to Garhauer and they would be overwhelmed, raise the prices and 
drop the customer support.  we cannot afford to deal with overly successful 
companies. We probably should keep quiet about it.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List stepping mast 38 Landfall

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

When I rebuilt my rig I made sure that there were a couple of 1/4 half 
moons bored into the aft edges of the mast, to allow water to drain.  
The rigger thought I was crazy.  I also insisted that the new mast step 
have holes drilled to allow water to drain to the bilge.  The rigger 
thought I was crazy.


He said 'how was it done before' and I said that the mast step was 
cracked and water went everywhere.  That shut him up.


14 years later everything is cool.  I've pulled the rig once since then, 
and it was as perfect as when I put it together.


Forty years ago, when I was broke, I bought a used toilet from a retired 
70 year old plumber who had an entire back yard full of old porcelain 
stuff.  I was going to install it in my cabin in the mountains.  He said 
'remember, sh__t runs downhill.'


That works for water in the boat, too.

Wal

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 CC 38

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Sails?  Balance?

Peace love and understanding?

y9u wrote:

Autopilot should be your first priority!



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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Roger that.



John  wrote:

Just go with the appropriate new Garhauer.



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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Russ wrote:
This helpful hint from the Medical Officer, Amazing Grace crew in 
response to the forward I sent out. snip


Thanks Russ - Down here in Mexico they don't have that, but they do have 
something called Benzal that is the same thing.  That's good for a 
giggle.  One must be careful, though, as there are two kinds of Benzal.  
One's a lubricant, the other is for yeast infections. If you don't know 
your Spanish, it's easy to get them mixed up.


In the end it took an entire bottle of dish soap to emulsify the stuff.  
I feel like writing them a letter and showing them a picture of the 
cracked plastic bottle.  All I did was pick it up and the plastic 
cracked.  Grr.


Joe - I put a capful in the gas for my outboard, as well as in the Honda 
2000.  You can also put it in diesel and crankcase oil, but I don't.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Lose Hardware/Leaking Boat

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yeah, I once found a pair of vice grips that way, clamped onto the 
bottom of a nut for my stanchion bases.  I'd been looking for it for 
years.  Sometimes it's just such a relief to finish and go home that one 
forgets...




Dan  wrote:

worse yet I found a 3/8 ratchet
drive with a 7/16 socket jammed up in the overhead rusted to one of the
bolts; had to use WD40 to dislodge the tool.  Seems someone was mid-stream
on installing the bracket and became distracted.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Okay, I've had it.  This is the second time.  I've noticed over the last 
many years that plastic bottles here in Mexico tend to bereally thin.  A 
few years ago a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil exploded in my cockpit, but 
at that time it was on the sole and made a huge mess on the ocean.


Today another bottle exploded on me when I tried to open it.  It was 
just a result of cheap plastic packaging.  My entire cockpit, including 
myself and the swimming trunks that I wear, are covered in Marvel 
Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.


Eff this stuff.

Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Actually, to be totally honest, I wasn't wearing swim trunks.   Does 
anyone know how to safely remove Marvel Mystery Oil from the male 
genitalia?  I sent an email to Moyer Marine but haven't heard back.


Please don't suggest Acetone.  I tried that.  Ouch.  VBG

Wal

I wrote:
My entire cockpit, including myself and the swimming trunks that I 
wear, are covered in Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a 
big deal. 




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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Andrew wrote:

I find the Raymarine more intuitive to use.
Hmm.  I helped someone (a totally blind cane-wielding sailor) move his 
boat a few months ago, and actually was able to use the Raymarine 
instruments without reading a manual.  That said, I sill love my Nexus 
NX2 system, which has not failed in over a decade. It's probably 
as//intuitive.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Edd - Going with a single on/off is a good call, if you have a dedicated 
start battery and separate house bank.  I had a great wiring diagram at 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/wiring/bigwires/ but just 
looked at it and realized it's eleven years old.  I guess the point is 
that you should design your system to be flexible and avoid a single 
vendor solution.  You (or the next owner) will eventually be replacing 
all the components.


Yeah, I can update the drawing.  I'm just so busy these days. 
(Taking care of business...)


The big thing about having one big house bank is:  drawing your 
batteries down hurts them.  It's better to tie all your batteries 
together and take them down 20 percent before recharging, rather than 
burn half of them down 50 percent.   I know those numbers don't match, 
but a load on a small bank reduces capacity faster than a load on a big 
bank.


Wal



Edd  wrote:

I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a Starting/House switch and 
use an echo charger for the house bank.

I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a wiring diagram 
they can share?



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Stus-List Voltage Regulators

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Well, my Xantrex 'Ideal Regulator Output Module' that is managed by my 
Link 2000R died.  No big deal, as I had a spare and am back up and 
running.  Hopefully this one will also last ten years and 1500 hours or 
more. But I need to think about getting a new spare, and wonder which one.


At this point, I'm justlooking for a standalone regulator.  But I really 
liked the ability of the Xantrex/2000R to limit alternator output to 80 
percent of maximum to reduce wear andtear and overheating.  I also would 
like one with a temperature sensor.


Any thoughts?  No rush, I have stuff forwarded down once a year, and 
amjust working on my list.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List CC 61 just popped up

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yeah, but my boat has cockroaches. Those are really hard to find.

Wal

Bill wrote:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/C%26C-61-Comfortable-Cruising-Boat-2804774/Roach-Harbor/WA/United-States#.VMbL7C6o10o


Beautiful cabinetry below.



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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?


Yes.  I don't race, and basically am happy when the boat is moving 
forward at a decent rate of speed.  I don't use the cunningham, and seem 
to be able to use the halyard and vang to control sail shape well enough 
to keep me happy.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Seabags/boot stripe/signal flag

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Si, si.

Wal

you wrote:

'm sure you already know, but the Blue white Red white Blue of the CC boot
stripe mimics the international flag for the letter C, hence their company 
logo.

Signal Flag Letter C (Charlie)



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Re: Stus-List All messages coming thru with subect and no body

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Okay, I got it.


everybody wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album



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Re: Stus-List All messages coming thru with subect and no body

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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OKAY, I GOT IT.


everybody wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album



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Re: Stus-List Port light Gaskets Material

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

All of my EDPM port gaskets have held up like new in the sun down here.  
You can find a variety of shapes and sizes at McMaster-Carr 
www.mcmaster.com


Wal


you wrote:

Before I left the boat I read about replacing the gaskets. In the post someone 
had linked to a supplier that produces the material for the gaskets for the 
port lights, but I can't seem to find it now.  If anyone could point me in the 
right direction it would be greatly appreciated.



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Re: Stus-List Teak stain?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

That might have been me.  I spent an ungodly amount of time and money 
trying to match the stain during my 'U-shaped Galley project'

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/galley/u_shape/usblues.htm

Later on, I just said the heck with it and took good teak or veneer and 
put many coats of Minwax interior varnish on it.  For a year or two it 
didn't match, but it's odd how interior varnish ages.  I honestly can't 
tell the difference between the varnish work I did ten years ago and the 
original 35 year old finish.  The stuff I got all fussy about doesn't 
match.


Just varnish it and go sailing.

Wal



On 1/19/2015 2:21 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:

A lister (whose name I've lost) posted this hard-won formula a few years
ago. I have used it several times, and its a perfect match to the factory
finish (which is definitely a warm brown stain) on my 1980 30-1.

 Minwax Wood Finish (Stain)1 part Provincial (211)  2 parts
Golden Pecan (245)2 parts Colonial Maple (223)



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Stus-List Dribble

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yup, before you throw the trash out, make sure you know where your 
glasses are.


This is just a little warmup for New Years Eve.

Best wishes for the holidays,
Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

you wrote:

I think I could be persuaded to do up new cabin soles for other listers at 
$9600 each. In other words, I think $9600 is way too high. $4100 sounds about 
right.


Roger that.  Heck, I'll fly up on my own dime... but you'd have to put 
me up in the spare bedroom.  And I smoke and drink and swear a lot.  
However, I'm really good with children -- just tonight there was a 
bonfire on the beach and someone contributed a small wooden child's 
chair.  I went in search of a child to lash down to the chair before the 
fire caught.


(Ummm, VBG)

Wal

--
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www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Spreaders? now PO as idiots

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Joe wrote:

When you have had the same boat since 1977, the PO idiot ends up being YOU.



Tell me about it!  The other thing is cruising repairs when proper 
materials aren't available, or when it's 105F and one isn't thinking 
very well and one has to get the job done right now. There are quite a 
few things on this boat that I know a new owner would just think 'Why 
the heck did that idiot do that' and the answer is 'Because I had to...'


And there are those installations for which I did a 20 year job, 
thinking that by the time it breaks I'll be dead.  Hmmm.  I suppose I 
should be thankful...


Wal


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Re: Stus-List Quality Construction

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

You have to know your boat.  When I first considered buying Stella Blue 
I asked this list (on Sailnet at the time) whether it could cross an 
ocean.  No one knew me then, and the reply I remember was It's the 
sailor, not the boat.


Wal


Danny wrote:

I chatted with a guy who owns a Bene 393.  He has circumnavigated twice with 
it.  for whatever can be taken from that...   Danny



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Re: Stus-List Holding tank discharge hose

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Joel - Yes!  You can see some pics of mine at 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/head/newtnk/newtnk.htm No 
smells after 11 years of hard use.  Also, the smooth Shields hose 
fittings are worth their weight in gold.  Actually, that's about what 
they cost!  The only hoses I've had to deal with go to the macerator 
pump, which I have rebuilt or replaced about ten times in the last five 
years.  It's really nice to be able to just slide the hose off the fitting.


Wal

you wrote:

My nasty winter project is to replace the hose from the holding tank to the
deck fitting.  Does it make sense to use a piece of PVC pipe from the
bottom of the tank to a point above the tank so that the hose stays dry?



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Mike - I'd vote for the 110.  If the 38-3 sails anything like an LF38, 
that should be fine.  I put a 90 on my boat when it was single handing 
the SF bay, and kept it on when sailing to Mexico.  I'll eventually 
replace it with a 110, but don't see the need for more power if not 
racing.  Even with a 90, I move along just fine in light air.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Patrick -

Mine had a Perkins 4-108 in it, which was definitely the wrong engine 
for the boat, but I knew I was going to repower so didn't worry about 
it.  Most came with Yanmars, and others can tell you more about that.  I 
also planned to convert the starboard quarter berth into a 
super-navstation and open up that side for engine access.  I was 
planning to set up the boat for long term cruising, so my objectives 
could be different than yours.  Having had to change a broken belt in a 
seaway, I can understand your concern.


Wal


Patrick Davin wrote:

I took a look at a Landfall 38 last week, and yeah it's pretty bad (engine
access). But does it actually prevent you from doing any critical tasks or
is it more of a nuisance?



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Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I've had one of these on the boat for years: 
http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-5890200-2-5-Gallon-2-5-Peak-HangOn/dp/B001PIIJFE



Kevin wrote:

Looking for recommendations for  a wet / dry vac for boat and some home.



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Re: Stus-List LCDI VS ELCI

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Ha!  There's a marina down in Mexico here with 120V AC plugs 
(unprotected) in all the showers.  Go figure.  VBG  The showers are 
big enough for two, but really I think any toy you want to use in the 
shower should be battery operated.


Wal

(P.S. That's the same marina that blew up my battery charger by rewiring 
a dock box -- destroyed by electrical fire -- while the entire AC leg on 
the dock was live.)



you wrote:

snip I have seen every method of incorrect wire connection possible. Even 
putting
a light switch in the shower, really, in the shower, behind the shower
curtain.



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Re: Stus-List Looks like a CC design...

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Twice I have seen recently repainted boats (one a Catalina, one a 
Hunter) who put CC stars under the toe rail. Then there was a Taiwan 
knock-off (I think they bought a boat and made a mold from the hull) and 
I was pretty sure it was a CC 40 knock-off but the owner assured me it 
was 'just like a Swan only cheaper' and so I left him to his beer.


It's good to see the original stars shine.

Wal


Fred wrote:

http://vineyardgazette.com/news/2014/11/12/duluth-vineyard-haven-island-family-sees-america-sail?k=vg546e3c74c6c47

It’s actually a Cassian/Cuthbertson design built by Whitby Boatworks in Ontario 
(1969 Whitby 45).



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Re: Stus-List Garden Lights and totally irrelevant

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Well, I was talking about at anchor, where the primary concern is making 
sure somebody doesn't run into your boat.


But actually at the dock I like them at the bow and stern too.  It keeps 
people from walking into my anchor when I'm in a slip that's too short, 
or when the cleats are set up in the wrong place.  It also keeps people 
from walking off the dock near my boat.  I've helped fish a body from 
the water in a marina, and it's not fun. They aren't *that* bright, and 
in fact are worthless as cockpit lights except during late night rap 
sessions.


Wal

you wrote:

I'm at the dock. Live aboards don't like this they say too many lights.



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Re: Stus-List back to the original --- Anchor question

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I have a copy of Hinz's 'the complete book of anchoring and mooring' on 
board.  A few years ago, when I was trying to get a few inches of 
waterline back, I gave away my Ashley's complete knots and JR's 
Annapolis book of Seamanship.  (I kept Chapman's and Hinz's.)


Anchors are like religion.

You said that Rocnas are on sale.  I have one.  It's over sized for my 
boat, and has held me in 50K with gusts to 70, and I'm not 
embellishing.  A few boats ended up on the beach/rocks that day, and one 
guy blew up his engine trying to stay off the beach.  I took a nap.  
Really.  (I was 20 miles away from the nearest boat, and wasn't dragging 
and no one could drag into me, so what the heck.)  I normally let out 
1.5 scope and let it set, then lay out more rode and back down on it.  
It has failed to grab on the first try twice. Once when the bottom was 
covered with sea grass, and the second time when the bottom was covered 
with small rocks.  Those bottoms are a challenge for any anchor.  I also 
like the roll bar, as I believe that it helps keep the rode from fouling 
on the anchor when the boat spins around on top of it during tide and 
current changes.


That said, I've had a 22 pound Danforth off the stern hold the boat fine 
in 25 knots when the wind changed.  The bottom was good sand.


The comment about getting the right anchor for where and how you sail is 
also right on.  If you just need a lunch hook, and never intend to leave 
the boat at anchor or sleep soundly at night, or can predict the weather 
with 100 percent accuracy, then you can choose/size an anchor 
appropriately.  Beyond a doubt the anchor must be manageable, and if you 
don't have a windlass then your options will be constrained.


Note that all anchor manufacturers will make recommendations that make 
that anchor look best.  If they recommend a bigger anchor they will 
create the impression that the anchor isn't as good as the competitor 
who recommends a smaller anchor, and could lose a sale. I probably could 
have followed Rocna's recommendation for my size/displacement boat, but 
wasn't willing to bet my boat and life on it.


As a final note, it's November, when the snowbirds and new folks show 
up.  I also call it 'anchor dragging season,' when folks learn that the 
anchor they have doesn't actually hold except in calm conditions.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Anchor question

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Josh -

Well, my LF38 is actually only 37.6.  Here's how I did it.  Note that 
the windlass and mounting is over engineered.  That's come in handy as I 
single hand, and pull up to anchor with the windlass and against the 
wind (against all recommendations) and have only stalled it once.  That 
was when I discovered that I'd spent the night anchored on an enormous 
abandoned drift net that was laying on the bottom, and I pulled the 
whole net up along with the anchor.  This stuff really happens.  The 
real trick to pulling the boat up with the windlass is to run the 
windlass in short bursts, working with the chop or waves.  Run the motor 
with the bow goes down, and let the sea pull the boat forward on the 
upstroke.  I lube the bearings annually, but I use it a lot.


http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/gtackle/windlass/index.htm

Wal


you wrote:

While we're on the topic of anchors, how do those of you with windlasses
have then mounted.  I've considered one but can't figure out a good
solution for my 37+.  Pictures would be awsome.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Garden Lights and totally irrelevant

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

PS.  Replace the stock battery with a 2100mha -plus rechargeable and it 
will last until dawn.


I wrote:

I have a solar garden light tie wrapped at both bow and stern,



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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Not crazy, but how old are your through hulls, sea cocks and hoses? Are 
your hoses held up with seizing wire so if the sink connections crack 
the hose won't fall down below the waterline? Do you have any red brass 
nipples connecting sea cocks to bronze T's to share hose fittings? 
That's the stuff I worry about, because I might be gone if they fail.


Speaking of boats sinking at the dock, we had another one here the other 
day. The locals were trying to raise it with empty 55 gallon drums -- 
except the drums weren't empty. The smell of solvent was overwhelming 
from 100 yards away, and I looked over to see them dumping the remaining 
contents into the marina water. Great. I walked over to complain, but 
they couldn't speak English and insisted it was just aqua. The drums 
were covered with warnings from 'flammable' to 'do not inhale fumes.' 
Funny how they were doing it on a national holiday, when the port 
captain was gone and the marina security was on a skeleton staff.


Wal



you wrote:

I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy?



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

At anchor, no problem.  I have a solar garden light tie wrapped at both 
bow and stern, and have at times mounted one port and starboard 
amidships on the stanchions.  They also help to find the boat at night...


As Bill mentioned, Tri-Color and running lights are a no-no.  When under 
power your steaming light must be higher than your running lights.  
(Red-White-Red underway means you're towing.  When at anchor it means 
you're dredging.  On land it means 'Hurricane')


Just to make it more confusing:

I just had to pull out my 'Quick Reference Nav Rules' cheat sheet -- a 
plastic card that shows all this stuff.  And darned if it doesn't show a 
boat under sail with both running lights and lights at the masthead with 
the note 'may be added.'  Huh.  Note that there wasn't a white light at 
the masthead, just red and green. So I pulled out my copy of Chapmans, 
which is pretty much the definitive source.  It definitely makes no 
mention of both deck lights and masthead lights when under sail.  Also, 
if you did have your tri-color and running lights on, you would be 
showing two white lights astern, which isn't a listed configuration.


And after reading Chapman again, it's amazing that we *all* break the 
rules all the time.  How many of us fly a black ball in the 
fore-triangle when at anchor during the day?  I actually have one, but 
have never used it.


And when single handed off shore motoring at night, when I'm sleeping, 
I'll turn on the foredeck light.  It's the same fitting as the steaming 
light, so what the heck.  I'm asleep, so it's not like it's going to 
wreck my night vision.


Wal

 wrote:

Same goes for the anchor light.  No one looks up.  I was pulling into St
Michaels, MD once and noticed some lights in the trees?  When suddenly I
realized they were anchor lights.

Is there a problem using both the deck lights and tri-color for added
visibility?



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Can we get back to discussions on racing rules?  This Colregs stuff is 
way too foncusing. VBG



Ken wrote:

From the Tranport Canada Small Commercial Vessel Safety Guide - TP 14070 E
(2010) Chapter 9, found here:

http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/tp-tp14070-3587.htm



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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Well, yes, I have been gone for quite some time.  It works for me.

best regardsmifl  (darn these foreign keyboards)\

wAL
(vbg)

PS. Please don't attack me right now, I have something in the oven.
And actually, if I read your message correctly, you are supporting my 
assertion.


you wrote:
Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost 
the boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the 
battery.  Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 
amps.   The 1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on 
cars, so in real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half 
that.


A 1 hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 
gpm = 762 gallons per hour.  Your pump won't keep up with that.


So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw?  The Rule 
pump draws 8.4 amps.  So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp 
hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a 
seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting?


(technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical 
Manual 3rd edition, flooding rates p 581)


How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps?  I consider 
automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain 
down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to 
rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic.  Far 
better to check and eliminate the risks you mention.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11 



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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  
This was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better 
now.  However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling 
everything out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned 
out to be a good idea.


http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm

Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I used that, and it has held up well for 13 years.  I have beat the heck 
out of this boat.


Wal

Dennis wrote:

Friend on the end of my pier is using Interlux Perfection Plus two part
clear urethane.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/varnishes/perfection-plus.aspx




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Re: Stus-List Racing rules question

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Hmm.  Sounds like a Mexican divorce.

you wrote:

Unfortuntely, the 'real' culprit in this scenario
escapes (Q) without any penalty since the boat able to protest him (NC) screwed 
up their protest. So NC gets disqualified (because of a
technicallity on her protest) and the most culpable boat in this scenario (Q) 
'skates' with no penalty!



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Re: Stus-List Sailing in - was Re: Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Good story.


Josh  wrote:

Engine died while coming in last night with customers on board.



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Re: Stus-List drive strut

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Larry - after this much time it could be anything.  I've replaced my 
filler twice.  It could be simple marine putty, fairing compound, etc.  
You can pick at it and see. The strut is bolted into a recess and 
puttied fair.  The last time I did it, I used fiber reinforced 
vinylester putty from Everlast, and that seems to be holding up really 
well.


As to why it's failing, it could just be age.  Or it could be vibration 
from a loose cutlass bearing, or you might have wrapped something around 
the prop without noticing.  Unless there's water coming inside the boat 
it's just superficial.


Wal

you wrote:

I understand after they are installed (bolted up) they are glazed in, using
epoxy or fairing or a combination, possibly even glassed in (rare).



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Re: Stus-List 34/36 bowsprit retrofit

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I have an ATN Tacker, played with it for a while, and decided the 
benefit wasn't worth the hassle and just rigged the clew down to the bow 
rollers.  The sock, on the other hand, is essential for me as a short 
handed cruiser.  The Tacker was relegated to the essential job of 
suspending a hammock from the furler.


Wal

you wrote:

As an alternative has anyone
experimented with an ATN Tacker and Spinnaker Sleave?



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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Under the Mast on 35 MK 3

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

What's a photo cloud?  Is that anything like cloud computing, which is a 
recently revived buzz word.


No clouds here today, it's hot and clear, but I did get in the kayak and 
finished waxing the starboard side before 11 a.m, when it was starting 
to get really hot.  We do get clouds rolling in after sunset when the 
thermals over the mountain rain forest create strong convection, but 
they are often full of lightning, which will probably mess up the pictures.


I've looked at clouds from both sides now...

Wal

you wrote:

Would you mind sharing on a photo cloud?



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