[Drakelist] Question

[Gary Thostenson]

Hello Again:

Does anyone know if the SCC-4 Crystal
calibrator will fit and can be used in both
the SPR-4 and R-4C receivers? The schematic
in the R-4C manual does refer to the SCC-4
as the one being used. Any comments?
Gary  W9VS  badgers9...@centurytel.net


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[Drakelist] Question Concerning a Drake TR& Mobile power cord

[n9jcq]

I found a brand new mobile power cord in a drawer.  I have no clue when I got 
it but I had a basic question regarding it.  It has three leads, red, black and 
white.  I know red is positive and black is negative but what is white used 
for.  I looked up the the cord in the drake manual but I can't see where the 
white lead comes into the schematic. 
Joe N9JCQ
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Re: [Drakelist] Question regarding the Drake TR-4

[Steve Wedge]

Kevin - 

I'd say that style two is the newer one.  When Drake went from the A- to the 
B-Line Twins, the B's also have the skirted dial.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



From: Kevin Elliott 
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 12:09 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: [Drakelist] Question regarding the Drake TR-4


I have three TR-4's and tow of them have flat metal dial piece behind the main 
tuning dial, one other has the metal dial which has a bend on the outer edge.  
Which of these designs is from the newest version of the TR-4?




|
|
|  style one

|
|




\
|
|
|  style two

|
|
/






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Re: [Drakelist] Question regarding the Drake TR-4

[Garey Barrell]

Kevin -

The flat plate was from the TR-4.  The 'dished' plate started with the 'TR-4B' (NOT an 'official' 
model) which was at s/n 27000.  I call it the "B" version because it came along at about that same 
time, (late 1967,) and shared other cosmetic changes that appeared on the B-Line twins.  These 
changes included the brushed main tuning accent disc, the 'dished' plate, black lettering 'above the 
belt' on the front panel and a neon 'PTO in use' light.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Kevin Elliott wrote:
I have three TR-4's and tow of them have flat metal dial piece behind the main tuning dial, one 
other has the metal dial which has a bend on the outer edge.  Which of these designs is from the 
newest version of the TR-4?



|
|
|  style one
|
|


\
|
|
|  style two
|
|
/


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[Drakelist] Question regarding the Drake TR-4

[Kevin Elliott]

I have three TR-4's and tow of them have flat metal dial piece behind the main 
tuning dial, one other has the metal dial which has a bend on the outer edge.  
Which of these designs is from the newest version of the TR-4?


|
|
|  style one

|
|


\
|
|
|  style two

|
|
/
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Re: [Drakelist] Question about dial darkening

[K9sqg]

If the dark brown is due to UV exposure, there is no way to restore it since it 
is throughout the plastic.  If it is smoker's grunge, then a variety of 
cleaners can be used BUT make sure they are NON-abrasive and don't due other 
damage.  I use some cleaner for delicate plastic, electronic equipment, etc. 
that is made by GC.  As with any cleaner, proceed with caution and test a 
hidden area to see if the cleaner is compatible with the plastic.


Might have some added tips in the WB4HFN  Drake website or Electric Radio 
magazine.



73,



Evan, K9SQG


-Original Message-
From: Allen Bush 
To: drakelist 
Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2012 7:14 am
Subject: [Drakelist] Question about dial darkening




I see there may be someone that has removed the dark brown discoloration from a 
Drake dial.  (I have about 3 Drakes with this problem.)  Can anyone lend 
specific light on how to accomplish this without destroying the dial?
 
THANKS!
 
Allen, W0OUU




 
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Re: [Drakelist] Question about dial darkening

[kc9cdt]

Allen,
Standby...I'm in the process of an experiment right now
In the meantime lookup Retro Bright. That is what I am trying.
I made my own up from the formulas presented.

73,
Lee



-Original Message-
From: Allen Bush 
To: drakelist 
Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2012 12:14 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] Question about dial darkening




I see there may be someone that has removed the dark brown 
discoloration from a Drake dial.  (I have about 3 Drakes with this 
problem.)  Can anyone lend specific light on how to accomplish this 
without destroying the dial?

 
THANKS!
 
Allen, W0OUU





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[Drakelist] Question about dial darkening

[Allen Bush]

I see there may be someone that has removed the dark brown discoloration from a 
Drake dial.  (I have about 3 Drakes with this problem.)  Can anyone lend 
specific light on how to accomplish this without destroying the dial?
 
THANKS!
 
Allen, W0OUU

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Re: [Drakelist] Question about 2-BQ Alignment

[Ferris Jennings]

Thanks Garey -

I managed to find the sweet spot for the L2 adjustment, and the 2BQ seems to
be working as advertised. I plan on running the 2B over the weekend to see
if it cuts out again. If so, I will unplug the 2BQ and see if that helps.

Many thanks
Ferris - NB6T


-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2011 7:17 PM
To: Ferris Jennings
Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Question about 2-BQ Alignment

Ferris -

1. Normal

2. This adjustment is to compensate for the capacitance of the IF cable.
This is the coaxial part of the leads. Be sure the 2-BQ is OFF and in NOTCH
position. If you have replaced the IF cable it may be the wrong type or too
long or short. If original it should peak, although it is a very broad peak.

3. Again, possible IF cable trouble. The cable is tied directly to the Grid
of the 3rd Mixer, and if it shorts, it kills the receiver! Next time it does
it, just pull the connector with power one and see if it comes back
immediately. If it does, then there is a problem, most likely with the IF
cable or it's connector.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Ferris Jennings wrote:
>
> Gents (and Ladies) -
>
> I'm trying to align a very nice Drake 2-BQ and have a few questions:
>
> 1-When I switch on the 2B, the 12AX7 in the 2-BQ glows very bright for 
> a second, then quickly fades to two tiny glows. Is this normal? The 
> tube diagram shows two filaments, but not sure about this burst of light
at power on.
>
> 2-Attempting to do the alignment procedure as provided in the 2B 
> manual; attempting to adjust L2 of the 2BQ to get a peak S-meter 
> reading does nothing - the meter doesn't go up or down. I've gone roughly
a turn CW and CCW from the initial position, and nothing. Any comments?
>
> 3-Twice this has happened in the past ten hours of operation; after a 
> few hours, with the 2-BQ connected, the 2B seems to lose all 
> sensitivity and audio out. Moving the Preselector doesn't increase 
> output noise, nor does cranking the AF Gain full CW. If I switch off 
> the 2B, unplug the 2-BQ, then switch on the 2B, things return to normal. I
have switched out all the tubes; still happened.
>
> All in all, both the 2B and 2-BQ seem to work great even with the 
> above concerns. Any help from the experienced would be greatly
appreciated.
>
> 73
>
> Ferris
>
> NB6T
>


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Re: [Drakelist] Question about 2-BQ Alignment

[Garey Barrell]

Ferris -

1. Normal

2. This adjustment is to compensate for the capacitance of the IF cable. This is the coaxial part of 
the leads. Be sure the 2-BQ is OFF and in NOTCH position. If you have replaced the IF cable it may 
be the wrong type or too long or short. If original it should peak, although it is a very broad peak.


3. Again, possible IF cable trouble. The cable is tied directly to the Grid of the 3rd Mixer, and if 
it shorts, it kills the receiver! Next time it does it, just pull the connector with power one and 
see if it comes back immediately. If it does, then there is a problem, most likely with the IF cable 
or it's connector.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Ferris Jennings wrote:


Gents (and Ladies) -

I’m trying to align a very nice Drake 2-BQ and have a few questions:

1-When I switch on the 2B, the 12AX7 in the 2-BQ glows very bright for a second, then quickly 
fades to two tiny glows. Is this normal? The tube diagram shows two filaments, but not sure about 
this burst of light at power on.


2-Attempting to do the alignment procedure as provided in the 2B manual; attempting to adjust L2 
of the 2BQ to get a peak S-meter reading does nothing - the meter doesn’t go up or down. I’ve gone 
roughly a turn CW and CCW from the initial position, and nothing. Any comments?


3-Twice this has happened in the past ten hours of operation; after a few hours, with the 2-BQ 
connected, the 2B seems to lose all sensitivity and audio out. Moving the Preselector doesn’t 
increase output noise, nor does cranking the AF Gain full CW. If I switch off the 2B, unplug the 
2-BQ, then switch on the 2B, things return to normal. I have switched out all the tubes; still 
happened.


All in all, both the 2B and 2-BQ seem to work great even with the above concerns. Any help from 
the experienced would be greatly appreciated.


73

Ferris

NB6T



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[Drakelist] Question about 2-BQ Alignment

[Ferris Jennings]

Gents (and Ladies) -

 

I'm trying to align a very nice Drake 2-BQ and have a few questions:

 

1-  When I switch on the 2B, the 12AX7 in the 2-BQ glows very bright for
a second, then quickly fades to two tiny glows. Is this normal? The tube
diagram shows two filaments, but not sure about this burst of light at power
on.

2-  Attempting to do the alignment procedure as provided in the 2B
manual; attempting to adjust L2 of the 2BQ to get a peak S-meter reading
does nothing - the meter doesn't go up or down. I've gone roughly a turn CW
and CCW from the initial position, and nothing. Any comments?

3-  Twice this has happened in the past ten hours of operation; after a
few hours, with the 2-BQ connected, the 2B seems to lose all sensitivity and
audio out. Moving the Preselector doesn't increase output noise, nor does
cranking the AF Gain full CW. If I switch off the 2B, unplug the 2-BQ, then
switch on the 2B, things return to normal. I have switched out all the
tubes; still happened.

 

All in all, both the 2B and 2-BQ seem to work great even with the above
concerns. Any help from the experienced would be greatly appreciated.

 

73

Ferris

NB6T

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[Drakelist] Question for the group

[Kevin Elliott]

I purchased a nice TR4 with NB for a fellow and he also tossed in two other 
complete non-working TR4's and an extra AC-4 and a power supply made from a 
Heathkit power supply and an extra RV-4.  One of the non-working radios has had 
the chassis butchered where someone drilled a hole in the side of it and 
installed a toggle switch to turn the radio on and off when the switch failed.  
The other radio is in better shape but the receive is barely audible. The 
repair of the radio is out of pay grade and really not wanting to spends 50 to 
100 dollars to be told it is junk.  I should add both radios have the wired NB 
in them.  The question is would I be better off trying to sell the 2 radio as 
complete units or piece them out and sell them for parts?

Tnx and 73
Kevin - KG0MN
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Re: [Drakelist] Question about the 9MC filters

[Garey Barrell]

Darryl -

That's what I get for being in a hurry.  Seems to be happening more 
often these days!  :-)


You are correct, you can only do one filter at a time.  You can use the 
dial skirt as a reference, i.e., turn on the CAL, and tune to zero 
beat.  Set the dial skirt to "0".  THEN tune through the calibrator in 
either filter position and you can see the approximately 2-1/2 kHz marks 
on either side where the S-Meter reads near maximum and with a drop to 
noise on either side.  Then turn OFF the calibrator, and with the dial 
set to "0", switch between USB and LSB, listening for 'similar' noise 
pitch in either position.  If they are not the same, then tweak C130 
slightly one way or the other until they are.  Again, they won't sound 
identical, but not 'bassy' or 'hissy' on either.


Yes, the drop to the 'valley' between the two filters will only be about 
20-30 dB due to the skirt slope of the filters.  You can see this in the 
diagram of the filter response mentioned earlier.  What we are 
attempting to do here is get the CO at the right place to be between the 
passbands, NOT necessarily in that maximum notch position.  The Balanced 
Modulator will take care of the additional attenuation of the carrier.


So, sorry for the confusion on my part.  Hopefully the above will clear 
it up and 'un-traumatize' you!!!  :-)


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



kb8bku wrote:

Garey,

Thanks for the explaination!  I have never heard this double hump when tuning 
the calibrator signal in any of my Drakes (TR-3, TR-4, 4A-line twins).  I 
assume the null that you describe tuning through is the BFO frequency, between 
the two filter passbands.  But it would seem to me that you would only have one 
passband filter active at a time (depending on the selected sideband), and so 
no null in the middle(between the two), but rather the signal would just fall 
off on either side of the single (LSB or USB) passband.  This is more what I 
think I hear from my radios.  I must be missing something or perhaps I am 
misunderstanding your explaination.  Or perhaps I have some work to do!  I can 
switch sidebands while tuning and get close to what you describe, but my dip in 
the middle is only about 20dB, not all the way to noise.


KB8BKU, Darryl in Dayton

On Jan 25, 2011, at 11:12 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

   

Kevin -

A scope can be used, although I find it easier to just listen to the receiver.

Think of the two filter passbands as the letter "M" as depicted on Page 29 of 
the TR-4 Manual.  The goal is to adjust C130 so that it sits in the valley between the 
two filters.  If you turn on the CALibrator and tune through it in either direction in 
receive mode, you'll see the S-Meter go from noise level up to 10 over S-9 or so for a 
couple of kHz, then down to noise again, back up to 10 over S-9 for a couple of kHz, and 
then back down to noise level.   If you get this pattern, then C130 is close.  Fine 
adjustment is to listen to the receiver noise (no antenna, high band, no signals) and 
switch back and forth between USB and LSB.  The 'pitch' of sound should be similar in 
both positions.  If one sounds low or 'bassy' and the other side sounds high and 'hissy', 
then adjust C130 slightly until they sound about the same.  They will NOT sound EXACTLY 
the same due to anomalies in the filter passbands, but they should sound similar.

Just in case you are 'really' asking about nulling the Carrier in the Balanced Modulator, 
in this case you can clip the ground lead of the scope to the chassis and then just lay 
the probe tip near the Driver tube socket.  Set the SIDEBAND switch to "X", key 
the transmitter in X-CW with the GAIN at full CCW, and adjust C127 and R85 for MINIMUM 
signal.  Again, it's easier to listen on an external receiver if you have one available, 
and do the above, adjusting for minimum signal in the receiver.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Kevin Elliott wrote:
 

I have been reading all of the posts in the new Drake archive and the old Drake 
archive trying to learn as much as I can about my TR4.  To you old pros this 
will be a rookie question, but I am of the belief that if you don't ask you 
don't learn.  Okay I have read where it has been said that you can use a couple 
of different ways to set C130 correctly.  One being use a digital receiver and 
listening for the matching null and the one that I want to ask about is using a 
scope to adjust them.  Where will the scope probe be connected to read this 
information or is it indirectly connected with a loop of wire around the 
oscillator tube to see the nulls.
I got the Great service CD and I love it and will be going through it and 
digesting all I can.
Thanks
Kevin _ KG0MN


   

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Re: [Drakelist] Question about the 9MC filters

[kb8bku]

Garey,

Thanks for the explaination!  I have never heard this double hump when tuning 
the calibrator signal in any of my Drakes (TR-3, TR-4, 4A-line twins).  I 
assume the null that you describe tuning through is the BFO frequency, between 
the two filter passbands.  But it would seem to me that you would only have one 
passband filter active at a time (depending on the selected sideband), and so 
no null in the middle(between the two), but rather the signal would just fall 
off on either side of the single (LSB or USB) passband.  This is more what I 
think I hear from my radios.  I must be missing something or perhaps I am 
misunderstanding your explaination.  Or perhaps I have some work to do!  I can 
switch sidebands while tuning and get close to what you describe, but my dip in 
the middle is only about 20dB, not all the way to noise.


KB8BKU, Darryl in Dayton

On Jan 25, 2011, at 11:12 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

> Kevin -
> 
> A scope can be used, although I find it easier to just listen to the receiver.
> 
> Think of the two filter passbands as the letter "M" as depicted on Page 29 of 
> the TR-4 Manual.  The goal is to adjust C130 so that it sits in the valley 
> between the two filters.  If you turn on the CALibrator and tune through it 
> in either direction in receive mode, you'll see the S-Meter go from noise 
> level up to 10 over S-9 or so for a couple of kHz, then down to noise again, 
> back up to 10 over S-9 for a couple of kHz, and then back down to noise 
> level.   If you get this pattern, then C130 is close.  Fine adjustment is to 
> listen to the receiver noise (no antenna, high band, no signals) and switch 
> back and forth between USB and LSB.  The 'pitch' of sound should be similar 
> in both positions.  If one sounds low or 'bassy' and the other side sounds 
> high and 'hissy', then adjust C130 slightly until they sound about the same.  
> They will NOT sound EXACTLY the same due to anomalies in the filter 
> passbands, but they should sound similar.
> 
> Just in case you are 'really' asking about nulling the Carrier in the 
> Balanced Modulator, in this case you can clip the ground lead of the scope to 
> the chassis and then just lay the probe tip near the Driver tube socket.  Set 
> the SIDEBAND switch to "X", key the transmitter in X-CW with the GAIN at full 
> CCW, and adjust C127 and R85 for MINIMUM signal.  Again, it's easier to 
> listen on an external receiver if you have one available, and do the above, 
> adjusting for minimum signal in the receiver.
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
> 
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
> and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin Elliott wrote:
>> I have been reading all of the posts in the new Drake archive and the old 
>> Drake archive trying to learn as much as I can about my TR4.  To you old 
>> pros this will be a rookie question, but I am of the belief that if you 
>> don't ask you don't learn.  Okay I have read where it has been said that you 
>> can use a couple of different ways to set C130 correctly.  One being use a 
>> digital receiver and listening for the matching null and the one that I want 
>> to ask about is using a scope to adjust them.  Where will the scope probe be 
>> connected to read this information or is it indirectly connected with a loop 
>> of wire around the oscillator tube to see the nulls.
>> I got the Great service CD and I love it and will be going through it and 
>> digesting all I can.
>> Thanks
>> Kevin _ KG0MN
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] Question about the 9MC filters

[kb8bku]

On Jan 25, 2011, at 11:12 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

> Kevin -
> 
> A scope can be used, although I find it easier to just listen to the receiver.
> 
> Think of the two filter passbands as the letter "M" as depicted on Page 29 of 
> the TR-4 Manual.  The goal is to adjust C130 so that it sits in the valley 
> between the two filters.  If you turn on the CALibrator and tune through it 
> in either direction in receive mode, you'll see the S-Meter go from noise 
> level up to 10 over S-9 or so for a couple of kHz, then down to noise again, 
> back up to 10 over S-9 for a couple of kHz, and then back down to noise 
> level.   If you get this pattern, then C130 is close.  Fine adjustment is to 
> listen to the receiver noise (no antenna, high band, no signals) and switch 
> back and forth between USB and LSB.  The 'pitch' of sound should be similar 
> in both positions.  If one sounds low or 'bassy' and the other side sounds 
> high and 'hissy', then adjust C130 slightly until they sound about the same.  
> They will NOT sound EXACTLY the same due to anomalies in the filter 
> passbands, but they should sound similar.
> 
> Just in case you are 'really' asking about nulling the Carrier in the 
> Balanced Modulator, in this case you can clip the ground lead of the scope to 
> the chassis and then just lay the probe tip near the Driver tube socket.  Set 
> the SIDEBAND switch to "X", key the transmitter in X-CW with the GAIN at full 
> CCW, and adjust C127 and R85 for MINIMUM signal.  Again, it's easier to 
> listen on an external receiver if you have one available, and do the above, 
> adjusting for minimum signal in the receiver.
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
> 
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
> and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin Elliott wrote:
>> I have been reading all of the posts in the new Drake archive and the old 
>> Drake archive trying to learn as much as I can about my TR4.  To you old 
>> pros this will be a rookie question, but I am of the belief that if you 
>> don't ask you don't learn.  Okay I have read where it has been said that you 
>> can use a couple of different ways to set C130 correctly.  One being use a 
>> digital receiver and listening for the matching null and the one that I want 
>> to ask about is using a scope to adjust them.  Where will the scope probe be 
>> connected to read this information or is it indirectly connected with a loop 
>> of wire around the oscillator tube to see the nulls.
>> I got the Great service CD and I love it and will be going through it and 
>> digesting all I can.
>> Thanks
>> Kevin _ KG0MN
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] Question about the 9MC filters

[Garey Barrell]

Kevin -

A scope can be used, although I find it easier to just listen to the 
receiver.


Think of the two filter passbands as the letter "M" as depicted on Page 
29 of the TR-4 Manual.  The goal is to adjust C130 so that it sits in 
the valley between the two filters.  If you turn on the CALibrator and 
tune through it in either direction in receive mode, you'll see the 
S-Meter go from noise level up to 10 over S-9 or so for a couple of kHz, 
then down to noise again, back up to 10 over S-9 for a couple of kHz, 
and then back down to noise level.   If you get this pattern, then C130 
is close.  Fine adjustment is to listen to the receiver noise (no 
antenna, high band, no signals) and switch back and forth between USB 
and LSB.  The 'pitch' of sound should be similar in both positions.  If 
one sounds low or 'bassy' and the other side sounds high and 'hissy', 
then adjust C130 slightly until they sound about the same.  They will 
NOT sound EXACTLY the same due to anomalies in the filter passbands, but 
they should sound similar.


Just in case you are 'really' asking about nulling the Carrier in the 
Balanced Modulator, in this case you can clip the ground lead of the 
scope to the chassis and then just lay the probe tip near the Driver 
tube socket.  Set the SIDEBAND switch to "X", key the transmitter in 
X-CW with the GAIN at full CCW, and adjust C127 and R85 for MINIMUM 
signal.  Again, it's easier to listen on an external receiver if you 
have one available, and do the above, adjusting for minimum signal in 
the receiver.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Kevin Elliott wrote:
I have been reading all of the posts in the new Drake archive and the 
old Drake archive trying to learn as much as I can about my TR4.  To 
you old pros this will be a rookie question, but I am of the belief 
that if you don't ask you don't learn.  Okay I have read where it has 
been said that you can use a couple of different ways to set C130 
correctly.  One being use a digital receiver and listening for the 
matching null and the one that I want to ask about is using a scope to 
adjust them.  Where will the scope probe be connected to read this 
information or is it indirectly connected with a loop of wire around 
the oscillator tube to see the nulls.
I got the Great service CD and I love it and will be going through it 
and digesting all I can.

Thanks
Kevin _ KG0MN




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[Drakelist] Question about the 9MC filters

[Kevin Elliott]

I have been reading all of the posts in the new Drake archive and the old Drake 
archive trying to learn as much as I can about my TR4.  To you old pros this 
will be a rookie question, but I am of the belief that if you don't ask you 
don't learn.  Okay I have read where it has been said that you can use a couple 
of different ways to set C130 correctly.  One being use a digital receiver and 
listening for the matching null and the one that I want to ask about is using a 
scope to adjust them.  Where will the scope probe be connected to read this 
information or is it indirectly connected with a loop of wire around the 
oscillator tube to see the nulls.

I got the Great service CD and I love it and will be going through it and 
digesting all I can.

Thanks
Kevin _ KG0MN


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Re: [Drakelist] Question regarding TR4

[Garey Barrell]

Kevin -

Your radio is a Version 2, probably built mid 1966.

Drake switched from 12BA6 to 6BA6 in Version 5, (4/68,) and to 6BZ6 in 
Version 6, (10/68,) at V5.


12BA6 to 12BZ6 in Version 4, (9/67,) and to 6BZ6 in Version 5, (4/68,) 
at V11.


V12 and V15 were 12BA6's for the entire production.

Your CD went out yesterday via First Class Mail.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Kevin Elliott wrote:
While I wait for my repair CDs to arrive I have found something I need 
some information on.  I am in the process of retubing the TR4 I have 
and I went down the list of tubes in the voltage chart and ordered all 
of the tubes.  That I think is my first mistake because when I took 
the cover off and got ready to install the tubes the first one was a 
6BZ6 tube I come to find out there are none in use on this particular 
radio.  Am I safe to assume that they made a revision either before 
this radio or afterwards and went to the 12BA6 tubes which I am 
finding are getting hard to find. My radio shows that tubes V13, V12 
and V11 are all 12BA6 and it has arrows pointing to all three tubes.  
The serial number on the radio is 23567 so if anyone can tell me what 
year that is I would appreciate it.

Thanks and 73
Kevin


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Re: [Drakelist] Question regarding TR4

[Don Cunningham]

Kevin,
You will likely find that the schematic you have in your manual probably 
doesn't match the rig you have.  Also, the manuals changed slowly, if at all, 
during the life, only the schematics changed.  Garey will have all the 
schematics in the CD.  One question though, why would you want to "re-tube" a 
whole transceiver??  More than likely most of those in the rig are good tubes, 
and it seems a waste to change them, plus, who can tell that your "new" ones 
are any better than the originals???  They have to be NOS or old unless they 
are Russian or Chinese.  Also, the rig was aligned with those tubes and will 
require a COMPLETE alignment after re-tubing.  I just think it is easier to use 
your new tubes as test replacements to see if they fix a particular problem.  
My .02 worth, probably not worth that much.
73,
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[Drakelist] Question regarding TR4

[Kevin Elliott]

While I wait for my repair CDs to arrive I have found something I need some 
information on.  I am in the process of retubing the TR4 I have and I went down 
the list of tubes in the voltage chart and ordered all of the tubes.  That I 
think is my first mistake because when I took the cover off and got ready to 
install the tubes the first one was a 6BZ6 tube I come to find out there are 
none in use on this particular radio.  Am I safe to assume that they made a 
revision either before this radio or afterwards and went to the 12BA6 tubes 
which I am finding are getting hard to find. My radio shows that tubes V13, V12 
and V11 are all 12BA6 and it has arrows pointing to all three tubes.  The 
serial 
number on the radio is 23567 so if anyone can tell me what year that is I would 
appreciate it.

Thanks and 73

Kevin


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Re: [Drakelist] Question

[john]

Just like you did this question...post away!
John K5MO


At 04:28 PM 3/20/2010, k...@proaudiogroup.com wrote:

How do I list a request for a part needed.

Ken George / K3JWI


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Re: [Drakelist] Question

[Garey Barrell]

Ken -

What you just did, except tell us what part you need!  :-)

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



k...@proaudiogroup.com wrote:

How do I list a request for a part needed.

Ken George / K3JWI


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[Drakelist] Question

[ken]

How do I list a request for a part needed.

Ken George / K3JWI


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Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[n9...@juno.com]

Ron

It has grommets and is mounted of center some using the existing holes in the 
cover. So it will not hurt the exterior.

Guy N9XBG


Nutrition
Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
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Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[Robert Ladden]

I run a 24VDC fan at 12V. 

--- On Mon, 3/8/10, Ronald Erickson  wrote:

> From: Ronald Erickson 
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3
> To: "Robert Ladden" 
> Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net, "n9...@juno.com" 
> Date: Monday, March 8, 2010, 10:20 PM
> A 220-volt fan run on 120-volt AC works
> great for me.
> 
> Ron, K0IC
> 
> On Mon, Mar 8, 2010 at 8:43 PM,
> Robert Ladden 
> wrote:
> 
> It's a good thing. I do the
> same on my TR-3. Without the fan, it gets very hot in the
> final cage and the top of the cabinet. Cool is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bob WW3QB
> 
> 
> 
> --- On Mon, 3/8/10, n9...@juno.com
> 
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> > From: n9...@juno.com
> 
> 
> > Subject: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3
> 
> > To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> 
> > Date: Monday, March 8, 2010, 8:12 PM
> 
> > I have a TR-3
> that I just picked and
> 
> > it up runs great. The question I have is the previous
> owner
> 
> > installed a muffin fan directly above the finals on
> the top
> 
> > cover which is set up to pull the air out of the
> finals
> 
> > section. I have heard good and bad about doing this,
> it does
> 
> > seem to keep the unit cooler but will it damage the
> finals
> 
> > or anything else? Previous owner had ran it for years
> and he
> 
> > said he had no problems. (of course it does take away
> from
> 
> > the bueaty of the rig)
> 
> > 73 Guy N9XBG
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> 
> > Medical Insurance
> 
> > Need Medical Insurance? Click here for affordable
> quotes.
> 
> > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=ManS0xdkCrkIj81uwWg18gAAJz0UFYKTAyySMiC3nbWXP64QAAYAAADNAAAQVgA=
> 
> 
> >
> 
> > ___
> 
> > Drakelist mailing list
> 
> > Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> 
> > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Drakelist mailing list
> 
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> 
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ronald D. Erickson, K0IC
> Southwest Iowa Amateur Radio Club
> Bellevue Amateur Radio Club
> ARRL Local Government Liaison
> ARRL Public Information Officer
> 
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL, the national association for Amateur Radio™
> 563-263-3097
> ronalderickson...@gmail.com
> 10-X #12938 :* EN20iu
> ARRL Lifer since 1976
> 
> 3900 Club #729
> Iowa QRP Club #179
> QCWA #30762; Chapters, 25, 123, 210
> FCC #PG-17-12556
> FISTS CW Club #12484
> Straight Key Century Club #2253
> FGBMFI Life Member
> Salvation Army Team Emergency Radio Network member
> 
> Pastor by Universal Life Church, Modesto, CA
> Trying to join the Shenandoah Assembly of God
> The Collins Collectors Association #AC07-12075
> Courage HANDI-HAM System member
> Ex: WN0GDA, WB0GDA, AK0N, AAV7AW
> Ex:  KMA-AM broadcast engineer 1977-1989.
> 
> Ex:  SBE Senior Broadcast Engineer #2308 - Radio - AM/FM
> IWCC -Clarinda Associate of Arts Degree -  1973
> University of Nebraska at Omaha Bachelor of General Studies
> Degree - 1993
> k...@arrl.net
> 
> www.contactify.com/c521b
> 
> 

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Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[Ronald Erickson]

A 220-volt fan run on 120-volt AC works great for me.

Ron, K0IC

On Mon, Mar 8, 2010 at 8:43 PM, Robert Ladden  wrote:

> It's a good thing. I do the same on my TR-3. Without the fan, it gets very
> hot in the final cage and the top of the cabinet. Cool is better.
>
> 73,
> Bob WW3QB
>
> --- On Mon, 3/8/10, n9...@juno.com  wrote:
>
> > From: n9...@juno.com 
> > Subject: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3
> > To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> > Date: Monday, March 8, 2010, 8:12 PM
> > I have a TR-3 that I just picked and
> > it up runs great. The question I have is the previous owner
> > installed a muffin fan directly above the finals on the top
> > cover which is set up to pull the air out of the finals
> > section. I have heard good and bad about doing this, it does
> > seem to keep the unit cooler but will it damage the finals
> > or anything else? Previous owner had ran it for years and he
> > said he had no problems. (of course it does take away from
> > the bueaty of the rig)
> > 73 Guy N9XBG
> >
> > 
> > Medical Insurance
> > Need Medical Insurance? Click here for affordable quotes.
> >
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=ManS0xdkCrkIj81uwWg18gAAJz0UFYKTAyySMiC3nbWXP64QAAYAAADNAAAQVgA=
> >
> > ___
> > Drakelist mailing list
> > Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> >
>
> ___
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>



-- 
Ronald D. Erickson, K0IC
Southwest Iowa Amateur Radio Club
Bellevue Amateur Radio Club
ARRL Local Government Liaison
ARRL Public Information Officer
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL, the national association for Amateur Radio™
563-263-3097
ronalderickson...@gmail.com
10-X #12938 :* EN20iu
ARRL Lifer since 1976
3900 Club #729
Iowa QRP Club #179
QCWA #30762; Chapters, 25, 123, 210
FCC #PG-17-12556
FISTS CW Club #12484
Straight Key Century Club #2253
FGBMFI Life Member
Salvation Army Team Emergency Radio Network member
Pastor by Universal Life Church, Modesto, CA
Trying to join the Shenandoah Assembly of God
The Collins Collectors Association #AC07-12075
Courage HANDI-HAM System member
Ex: WN0GDA, WB0GDA, AK0N, AAV7AW
Ex:  KMA-AM broadcast engineer 1977-1989.
Ex:  SBE Senior Broadcast Engineer #2308 - Radio - AM/FM
IWCC -Clarinda Associate of Arts Degree -  1973
University of Nebraska at Omaha Bachelor of General Studies Degree - 1993
k...@arrl.net
www.contactify.com/c521b
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Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[Robert Ladden]

It's a good thing. I do the same on my TR-3. Without the fan, it gets very hot 
in the final cage and the top of the cabinet. Cool is better.

73,
Bob WW3QB

--- On Mon, 3/8/10, n9...@juno.com  wrote:

> From: n9...@juno.com 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Date: Monday, March 8, 2010, 8:12 PM
> I have a TR-3 that I just picked and
> it up runs great. The question I have is the previous owner
> installed a muffin fan directly above the finals on the top
> cover which is set up to pull the air out of the finals
> section. I have heard good and bad about doing this, it does
> seem to keep the unit cooler but will it damage the finals
> or anything else? Previous owner had ran it for years and he
> said he had no problems. (of course it does take away from
> the bueaty of the rig)
> 73 Guy N9XBG
> 
> 
> Medical Insurance
> Need Medical Insurance? Click here for affordable quotes.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=ManS0xdkCrkIj81uwWg18gAAJz0UFYKTAyySMiC3nbWXP64QAAYAAADNAAAQVgA=
> 
> ___
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> 

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Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[Ron]

Guy,
If you leave it on top, just put little feet on the fan to keep it from 
scraping the finish.  You can also use grommets for spacers and small cable 
ties on the back of the final cage. You don't need a lot of air (aka noisy fan) 
just something to move the air a little.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Mon, 3/8/10, n9...@juno.com  wrote:

> From: n9...@juno.com 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Date: Monday, March 8, 2010, 8:12 PM
> I have a TR-3 that I just picked and
> it up runs great. The question I have is the previous owner
> installed a muffin fan directly above the finals on the top
> cover which is set up to pull the air out of the finals
> section. I have heard good and bad about doing this, it does
> seem to keep the unit cooler but will it damage the finals
> or anything else? Previous owner had ran it for years and he
> said he had no problems. (of course it does take away from
> the bueaty of the rig)
> 73 Guy N9XBG
> 
> 
> Medical Insurance
> Need Medical Insurance? Click here for affordable quotes.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=ManS0xdkCrkIj81uwWg18gAAJz0UFYKTAyySMiC3nbWXP64QAAYAAADNAAAQVgA=
> 
> ___
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> 


  

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Re: [Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 9 Mar 2010 01:12:34 GMT, n9...@juno.com wrote:

>will it damage the finals or anything else? 


No.

Quite the opposite, in fact. Aren't you happier when you are cooler?

73

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] Question on Drake TR-3

[n9...@juno.com]

I have a TR-3 that I just picked and it up runs great. The question I have is 
the previous owner installed a muffin fan directly above the finals on the top 
cover which is set up to pull the air out of the finals section. I have heard 
good and bad about doing this, it does seem to keep the unit cooler but will it 
damage the finals or anything else? Previous owner had ran it for years and he 
said he had no problems. (of course it does take away from the bueaty of the 
rig)
73 Guy N9XBG


Medical Insurance
Need Medical Insurance? Click here for affordable quotes.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=ManS0xdkCrkIj81uwWg18gAAJz0UFYKTAyySMiC3nbWXP64QAAYAAADNAAAQVgA=

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RE: [drakelist] Question

[Terrell Hamilton]

Carl:

He drives a Toyota (an FJ 40, I hope.) because he knows how superior they
are to Jeeps. (Did you know that in Mexico, they pronounce them "Heeps?")
The grille is probably merely an oversight.

 

Terry 

K7WLD

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 11:15 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Question

 

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Mike, WB8VGE

Um Hmmm, a Jeep grille on his emails and yet he drives a Toyotatch tch.

Hi Mike, Carl Hibbard





  _  

Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars
<http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507> .

Re: [drakelist] Question

[Mike Bryce]

I don't own a toyota

never had... never willl

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a  
large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced



On Jul 4, 2008, at 2:15 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Mike, WB8VGE
Um Hmmm, a Jeep grille on his emails and yet he drives a  
Toyotatch tch.

Hi Mike, Carl Hibbard



Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used  
cars.

Re: [drakelist] Question

[Gypsymt34]

 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Mike,  WB8VGE


Um Hmmm, a Jeep grille on his emails and yet he drives a Toyotatch  tch.
Hi Mike, Carl Hibbard



**Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.  
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

Re: [drakelist] Question

[ron]

ron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Richard Bell wrote:


I have the venerable B Line running an I’m hearing about nothing on 20 
except for a couple of QSO’s around 14.051. Last weekend you couldn’t 
find a vacant spot on 20 (I know Filed Day).


So where is everyone?

W5BXE (unamplified mikes only)


Filed Day??

must've been a lot of clean finger nails!

Ron
wb1hga


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Re: [drakelist] Question

[Mike Bryce]

Resting up from last weekend!

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a  
large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced



On Jul 4, 2008, at 12:54 PM, Richard Bell wrote:

I have the venerable B Line running an I’m hearing about nothing on  
20 except for a couple of QSO’s around 14.051.   Last weekend you  
couldn’t find a vacant spot on 20 (I know Filed Day).


So where is everyone?

W5BXE  (unamplified mikes only)

Re: [drakelist] Question

[Jim Shorney]

"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Fri, 4 Jul 2008 11:54:29 -0500, Richard Bell wrote:

>
>So where is everyone?


Discussing microphones on the internet.

-Jim



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[drakelist] Question

[Richard Bell]

I have the venerable B Line running an I'm hearing about nothing on 20
except for a couple of QSO's around 14.051.   Last weekend you couldn't find
a vacant spot on 20 (I know Filed Day).  

 

So where is everyone?

 

W5BXE  (unamplified mikes only)

[drakelist] Question Regarding Drake C-Line Radio Chassis

[H D MAC LEOD]

"H D MAC LEOD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Drakelist.
Does anyone know what kind of protective  lacquer Drake used on their C-Line 
radio chassis? I have successfully polished out some surface rust that was 
starting on the edge of a unit and would like to reseal it with the same 
color lacquer to get as close to original look as possible.

Wade VA3HM



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Re: [drakelist] Question on R4A RF Amp

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Curt -

This modification was fairly common even when the receiver was new, 
since the 12BZ6 has always been a difficult to source tube.  It 
apparently was never a very popular tube, making it hard to find in the 
60's and much more expensive than the 6BZ6 today.


If there is no 0.005 bypass at the socket, add one.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, B & C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Curt Nixon wrote:


Curt Nixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Good Morning All:

Saw a mention somewhere regarding changing the RF amp tube from a 
12BZ6  to a 6BZ6 due to the availability of the 6 volt v. 12volt 
versions.


This amounts to a one wire change to carry the 6 volt filament to the 
tube (other side is chassis common)


So, is there any downside to this that I should be aware of--seems 
liike a logical mod to me after looking into the price of  the two 
versions.


Thanks,

Curt

KU8L



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[drakelist] Question on R4A RF Amp

[Curt Nixon]

Curt Nixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Good Morning All:

Saw a mention somewhere regarding changing the RF amp tube from a 12BZ6  
to a 6BZ6 due to the availability of the 6 volt v. 12volt versions.


This amounts to a one wire change to carry the 6 volt filament to the 
tube (other side is chassis common)


So, is there any downside to this that I should be aware of--seems liike 
a logical mod to me after looking into the price of  the two versions.


Thanks,

Curt

KU8L

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Re: [drakelist] question

[Gypsymt34]

Carl  -When did I write that???
73, Garey - K4OAH
Garey,  sorry, you didn't, my error, the way I pulled up the Drakelist  send 
to address  was one of your old answers to an entirely different  thing. I 
believe I meant to use you as the send to.
carl



**Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.  
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)

Re: [drakelist] question

[Don Cunningham]

"Don Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Garey,
I didn't remember you saing that, hi.  I get LOTS of incomplete emails like 
that.  I always wondered what I'm missing, HI.

73,
Don, WB5HAK
- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] question




Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Carl -

When did I write that???

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Would someone who knows T4X's tell me if an R4 PTO was ever used. It 
would seem to me that someone has swapped it out or replaced

just the can cover with same.

Carl WD8NHK




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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 
269.20.8/1289 - Release Date: 2/20/2008 10:26 AM





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Re: [drakelist] question

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Carl -

When did I write that???

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Would someone who knows T4X's tell me if an R4 PTO was ever used. 
It would seem to me that someone has swapped it out or replaced

just the can cover with same.

Carl WD8NHK
 





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Re: [drakelist] question

[Gypsymt34]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Would  someone who knows T4X's tell me if an R4 PTO was ever used.  It would  
seem to me that someone has swapped it out or replaced just the can cover 
with  same.
Carl WD8NHK

 



**Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.  
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598)

Re: [drakelist] Question 2 of many, R-4A tune-up

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howard -

If it's not "dead", the calibrator is sufficient to get it very close.  
You can hear the second harmonic of the BFO beating with the calibrator 
to set that, and then use the calibrator for the RF and IF alignment 
tasks.  Detune the Preselector to reduce the signal level when adjusting 
the IF's, and I would strongly suggest skipping the Crystal Filter and 
Crystal Match Alignment portion.  The wrapped wires are almost certainly 
OK, unless someone has been playing with them, which is unlikely.  A 
"real" VTVM is handy, but the S-Meter will work for all but setting the 
RCVR SENS control to -1.35V.  A "good" DMM (one with a 10-25 Megohm 
input impedance will work for that.  Many of the "bargain" DMMs have 
very low input Z and will NOT work for this adjustment.


That said, a stable signal generator that will tune around 5.6 MHz makes 
things a little easier.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Howard Traxler wrote:

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Anyone know what equipment I will need to tune up my R-4A?

Thanks.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF
- Original Message - 
From: "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 4:18 PM
Subject: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)


:
: "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

: --
: Hi all,
: Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4
: station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA 
jacks

: on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug.
: There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch
: (left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to
: be two 1/8" jacks.
:
: Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?
:
: Thanks lots.
:
: 73 de Howard, WA9RYF
:
: Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
: www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
: /*--  THINK GOD  --*/
:

  


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[drakelist] Question 2 of many, R-4A tune-up

[Howard Traxler]

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Anyone know what equipment I will need to tune up my R-4A?

Thanks.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF
- Original Message - 
From: "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 4:18 PM
Subject: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)


:
: "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
: --
: Hi all,
: Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4
: station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA 
jacks
: on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug.
: There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch
: (left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to
: be two 1/8" jacks.
:
: Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?
:
: Thanks lots.
:
: 73 de Howard, WA9RYF
:
: Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
: www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
: /*--  THINK GOD  --*/
:
:
: --
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: --
:
:
: -- 
: No virus found in this incoming message.
: Checked by AVG Free Edition.
: Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.10/1070 - Release Date: 
10/14/2007 9:22 AM
:
: 


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Re: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)

[Howard Traxler]

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Peter and Gary.

Now that you mention it, I remember the crystal socket on the side of the 
R-4A.  Ya know, the holes I found there are probably still the crystal 
socket; however, the switch is not there--or maybe the handle is broken off. 
Probably not a mod at all.  I'll have to open it up and check it out.

The switch on the side of the TR-4 doesn't seem to have any effect.  I 
patched the two RCA jacks over to the receiver and got it working a little; 
certainly not as hot as the receiver on the TR-4.  Can't get it to un-mute. 
I think the R-4A needs a tune-up and maybe some tubes.

I feel bad for the guy who sold it to me.  He thinks it's working GREAT! hi 
hi.

Off to work now but I'll play more tonight.
Thanks again.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF
- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Bent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 4:18 PM
Subject: RE: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)


:
: "Peter Bent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
: --
: Hi Howard,
:
: The slide switch on the TR4 was to use the TR4 as a transceiver or
: transmitter only. (Don't know about the switch on the R-4a)  The RCA jacks
: on the the TR4 are Antenna and Mute connections.  There should be
: corresponding connections on the receiver. ( I don't know about the 
R-4a --
: but there are on the R-4c..  To use the Tr-4 in transmit only both cables
: need to be in.  The TR-4 switched to transmit and the receiver must be set
: to Ext. mute. Good luck
:
: -Original Message-
: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On
: Behalf Of Howard Traxler
: Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:19 PM
: To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
: Subject: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)
:
:
: "Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
: drakelist gang
: --
: Hi all,
: Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4
: station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA 
jacks
: on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug.
: There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch
: (left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to
: be two 1/8" jacks.
:
: Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?
:
: Thanks lots.
:
: 73 de Howard, WA9RYF
:
: Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
: www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
: /*--  THINK GOD  --*/
:
:
: --
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: --
:
:
:
: --
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: --
:
:
: -- 
: No virus found in this incoming message.
: Checked by AVG Free Edition.
: Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.10/1070 - Release Date: 
10/14/2007 9:22 AM
:
: 


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RE: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)

[Peter Bent]

"Peter Bent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howard..just actually looked..
There is a switch on the R-4c to toggle between 120 V and 240V  -- probably
the same.  Fuse is near it.  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Howard Traxler
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)


"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
drakelist gang
--
Hi all,
Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4 
station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA jacks 
on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug. 
There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch 
(left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to 
be two 1/8" jacks.

Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?

Thanks lots.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF

Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
/*--  THINK GOD  --*/ 


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Re: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Howard -

The two RCA jacks on the TR-4 are MUTE (closest to the side) and ANT.  
They should be patched to the like-labeled jacks on the R-4A.


The slide switch on the left rear side of the TR-4 is pushed towards the 
rear of the chassis to use the external receiver, and forward to use the 
internal receiver of the TR-4.


As for the mod on the R-4A, no telling..   The slide switch and 
nearby crystal socket were to be used to crystal control the receiver, 
with the switch selecting between PTO and crystal control.  Based on 
where they are on the chassis, I'd guess a tap for an external counter, 
but they could be anything.  You'd have to trace the internal cable to 
see where it goes!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




Howard Traxler wrote:

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi all,
Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4 
station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA jacks 
on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug. 
There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch 
(left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to 
be two 1/8" jacks.


Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?

Thanks lots.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF

Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
/*--  THINK GOD  --*/ 

  


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RE: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)

[Peter Bent]

"Peter Bent" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Howard,

The slide switch on the TR4 was to use the TR4 as a transceiver or
transmitter only. (Don't know about the switch on the R-4a)  The RCA jacks
on the the TR4 are Antenna and Mute connections.  There should be
corresponding connections on the receiver. ( I don't know about the R-4a --
but there are on the R-4c..  To use the Tr-4 in transmit only both cables
need to be in.  The TR-4 switched to transmit and the receiver must be set
to Ext. mute. Good luck

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Howard Traxler
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)


"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
drakelist gang
--
Hi all,
Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4 
station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA jacks 
on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug. 
There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch 
(left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to 
be two 1/8" jacks.

Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?

Thanks lots.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF

Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
/*--  THINK GOD  --*/ 


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[drakelist] Question 1 of many, TR-4 & R-4(A)

[Howard Traxler]

"Howard Traxler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi all,
Would like to use my newly acquired R-4A as the receiver in the TR-4 
station.  What connections are to be made between?  There are two RCA jacks 
on the rear panel of the chasis of the TR-4 just west of the power plug. 
There seems to be a mod of the R-4A:  Where there once was a slide switch 
(left side, below the middle lower case screw), there are now what seem to 
be two 1/8" jacks.

Could anyone tell me about the mod and the connections I need to make?

Thanks lots.

73 de Howard, WA9RYF

Howard K. Traxler, Technology Specialist
www.TraxlerEnterprises.com
/*--  THINK GOD  --*/ 


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Re: [drakelist] Question on LP Filter

[Jim Shorney]

"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 20:17:20 -0500, Steve Berg wrote:

>
>Steve Berg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
>--
>I have a Drake TV3300-LP low pass filter, and it seems as though its 
>cutoff frequency has shifted downward.  Using a wattmeter before it and 
>one after it, the filter seems to attenuate signals in the 12 and 10 
>meter bands by about 3 dB.  Below that, it works fine.  Any ideas on 
>what is happening here?

They're pretty simple, not much that can go wrong.

1. Bad capacitor
2. Cold solder joint
3. Bad ground connection to the coax connector(s)


--
TR7/RV7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C, L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 
3750 - all vintage, all the time!

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/


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[drakelist] Question on LP Filter

[Steve Berg]

Steve Berg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I have a Drake TV3300-LP low pass filter, and it seems as though its 
cutoff frequency has shifted downward.  Using a wattmeter before it and 
one after it, the filter seems to attenuate signals in the 12 and 10 
meter bands by about 3 dB.  Below that, it works fine.  Any ideas on 
what is happening here?


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] Question Drake T4XC

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Dave -

Sounds like the PTO dial has been slipped 100 kHz.  If you use XMTR 
control TRANSCEIVE and then tune to 7240, do you HEAR 7240?  Stated 
another way, if you tune the receiver PTO to 7240, the transmitter PTO 
to 7340, and switch between SEPARATE, XMTR and RCVR, do you hear the 
same signal in all three positions?


If you do, the transmitter PTO dial will have to be reset.  There are 
one or two spring loaded levers, depending upon the age, that extend 
over the top of the "gearbox" of the PTO, just behind the dial.  If you 
push either lever towards the centerline of the PTO, it will disengage 
the gear drive for one or the other dials, allowing it to rotate 
freely.  So...  With the transmitter PTO set to 7240, press the 
appropriate lever and rotate the 100 kHz dial to read 0.240 and release 
the lever.  It may take a few tries to hit the exact gear tooth to make 
it line up exactly under the line, but ...   One caveat, when you press 
the lever(s) the dials spin FREELY, and you can lose your place entirely!


There are some photos at



Part 5 shows these levers and explains the procedure.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs




David Abbott wrote:


"David Abbott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
I have a question in regards to the alignment. I have a R4C and a 
T4XC. When I go to the spot mode for putting the xmitter on the same 
freq. as the receiver, it is 100 kc off. Example. I have the receiver 
on 7240 40 meters and put the xmitter on 7240 no birdie sound. If 
I put the xmitter on 7340 I get the birdie sound. This happens on 
every band. Trying to trouble shoot the problem  where to I start. I 
am new at working on this equipment so really don't want to mess up or 
ruin a good piece of equipment.


Any help would be appreciated on this matter. 73's Dave WB6BIL


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[drakelist] Question about MN-2700 tuner

[Karl Oyster, K1KO]

Good evening...

I discovered something today which perplexes me.  That may be primarily because 
I am not the world's most technically capable person, but if you can explain 
this to me, I'd be very appreciative.

Using the tuner with a newly constructed wire antenna, I discovered, much to my 
surprise, that when I set the switches under the tuning knobs to the first 
position (0-10) and the dial to "10" I got a different result than when I set 
the switches to the second position (10-20) and the dial to "0".  My 
non-technical mind says, intuitively, "10 = 10," so why do I get the different 
result?  In order to get the same result, the dial must be set to about "7" 
with the switch in the first position to get the same result as when the 
position is in the second position and set at "0".

Clearly, the world will continue to turn on its axis if I can't get an answer 
to this, but, as usual, I'm curious when 10 is, apparently, not equal to 10.  
And that doesn't even touch the confusion factor.

Thanks, in advance,

Karl, K1KO
Virginia Beach, VA

RE: [drakelist] Question about some old Drake Equipment

[Ronald Baker]

"Ronald Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Steve,  there is significant value to that equipment list.   You can compare
the model numbers against my resale price list to see an approximate value.
Most of the pricing is current.   From this list you can get a good feel for
the value and resale is you decide to sell.

Here is the link:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakePricing.htm

Ron



Ron Baker / WB4HFN
 
Visit my Website: www.wb4hfn.com
Vintage Drake & Collins 






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Re: [drakelist] Question about some old Drake Equipment

[Don - W7DAH]

"Don - W7DAH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Yeah Steve,

Lately I've been hearin' that if you put all yer Drake goodies up on 
one of them-thar, fancy, new-fangled auction sites the bidness 
profits ya net will send ya into early retirement (ONLY KIDDING - 
just pokin' sticks at the animals)!!! ;-)

Here is a web resource, compiled by Ron - WB4HFN (a Drake 
*Collector*) that provides SOME Drake-specific resale value HISTORY:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakePricing.htm 

Perhaps that will give you some ideas / guidelines. But, why not 
unload all your newer gear, and keep your Dad's American-Made 
Classics (or keep both)?

73, Don - W7DAH

> 
> George KB2Z <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
> the drakelist gang
> --
> Hi Steve, It's all junk. I'll be happy to take it off your hands, if
> you pay the shipping. All kidding aside, Its good stuff. Well worth
> the effort to get on the air. Good luck, George, KB2Z
> 
> 
> At 12:51 PM 7/29/05, you wrote:
> 
> >Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> >-
> >- Hello Drake Owners,
> >
> >This is my first time to use this so please go easy on me.
> >
> >My father passed away in 2002 and I now have some Drake equipment
> >that I know little to nothing about. There are some 20 odd pieces of
> >gear, so I thought someone might help me out.
> >
> >1. L75 amp with owners manual and shipping box. Looks new
> >2. T4XB
> >3. R4B
> >4. MS4 x 3
> >5. DC4
> >6. AC4 x 2
> >7. 2NT
> >8. R2A
> >9. R4C
> >10. CS7
> >11. Box of misc. parts... mics, spare tubes, 90 degree mic plugs,
> >manuals, etc. Too many things to list.
> >
> >Is there any value to this stuff or is it all just junk?
> >
> >Thanks for any help,
> >
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >-
> >- On Behalf of Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:   
> >drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:   
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly
> >Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message
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> >of TLCHost.net  http://www.tlchost.net/
> >-
> >-
> 
> --
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> --


--  
73, Don - W7DAH
Voice Mail: 314-237-0373
Fax: 240-248-0479
E-Mail: w7dahawk[AT]gmail[DOT]com
Grid square: CN85pk
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Re: [drakelist] Question about some old Drake Equipment

[George KB2Z]

George KB2Z <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi Steve,
It's all junk. I'll be happy to take it off your hands, if you pay 
the shipping.

All kidding aside, Its good stuff. Well worth the effort to get on the air.
Good luck, George, KB2Z


At 12:51 PM 7/29/05, you wrote:


Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hello Drake Owners,

This is my first time to use this so please go easy on me.

My father passed away in 2002 and I now have some Drake equipment that I
know little to nothing about. There are some 20 odd pieces of gear, so I
thought someone might help me out.

1. L75 amp with owners manual and shipping box. Looks new
2. T4XB
3. R4B
4. MS4 x 3
5. DC4
6. AC4 x 2
7. 2NT
8. R2A
9. R4C
10. CS7
11. Box of misc. parts... mics, spare tubes, 90 degree mic plugs,
manuals, etc. Too many things to list.

Is there any value to this stuff or is it all just junk?

Thanks for any help,

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[drakelist] Question about some old Drake Equipment

[Steve]

Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hello Drake Owners,

This is my first time to use this so please go easy on me.

My father passed away in 2002 and I now have some Drake equipment that I
know little to nothing about. There are some 20 odd pieces of gear, so I
thought someone might help me out.

1. L75 amp with owners manual and shipping box. Looks new
2. T4XB
3. R4B
4. MS4 x 3
5. DC4
6. AC4 x 2
7. 2NT
8. R2A
9. R4C
10. CS7
11. Box of misc. parts... mics, spare tubes, 90 degree mic plugs,
manuals, etc. Too many things to list.

Is there any value to this stuff or is it all just junk?

Thanks for any help,

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

[GAREY - K4OAH]

GAREY - K4OAH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
David -

The only one of the group that lends itself to "widening" is the R-4C.  There 
is a 4 pole 8 kHz "roofing" filter up front in all the R-4 receivers that 
limits the "ultimate" IF bandwidth.   The L-C Passband tuners could possibly be 
modified, but certainly NOT a simple mod.

The R-4C though, has a separate AM filter socket under the chassis, and 8 pole 
crystal filters were offered in both 4 and 6 kHz bandwidths.  The receiver came 
from the factor with a 150 ohm, 2W resistor installed between the input and 
output pins of the AM filter socket, effectively giving an 8 kHz IF bandwidth 
set by the roofing filter.

The 2-B uses essentially the same Passband tuner as the 4 line, again not a 
candidate for easy modification.

All these receivers were designed as CW/SSB receivers, with AM included solely 
for "backward compatibility".   AM was considered to be "on the way out" by 
most hams (and others) in the 60's when these receivers were designed.

A nice NC-183D, HRO-60 or NC-300 would be a much better sounding AM receiver!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake C-Line Service Manual


David Toepfer wrote:

> David Toepfer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> R-4 questions:
>
> The Drake R-4(a/b/c) seems universally regarded as a file receiver.  It seems
> bets regarded by CW and SSB users, and less so by AM users.  At 4.8kHz max IF
> bandwidth it is usable for AM, but does not seem to lend itself to current
> practices of AM users.
>
> Does anyone have any experience at opening up the R-4(a/b/c) IF to
> 6/7/8/10/12kHz more in keeping with current practices?
>
> Would the R-4B tend to lend itself better to such a modification because of
> what I believe is it's LC IF filters as opposed to the crystal filters used in
> the R-4C?
>
> 
>
> 2-B questions:
>
> The Drake 2-B seems even less well regarded by AM users.  At 3.6kHz max IF
> bandwidth its use beyond simple communication via AM seems limited.
>
> Similarly, does anyone have any experience at opening up the 2-B IF to
> 4.8/6/7/8/10/12kHz more in keeping with current practices?
>
> Similarly, would the 2-B tend to lend itself better to such a modification
> because of what I believe is it's LC IF filters?
>
> 
>
> R-4/2-B questions:
>
> Or, is it perhaps a simple matter of limits imposed or at least evident 
> earlier
> in the IF chain preclude aspirations of such receiver modifications?
>
> dt
>   
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RE: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

[john]

john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I'll second that.

An R4B on the BBC is a very pleasant radio to listen to.

John K5MO


At 05:45 PM 6/17/2005, Grant Youngman wrote:


"Grant Youngman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
>
> The Drake R-4(a/b/c) seems universally regarded as a file
> receiver.  It seems bets regarded by CW and SSB users, and
> less so by AM users.  At 4.8kHz max IF bandwidth it is usable
> for AM, but does not seem to lend itself to current practices
> of AM users.

This is not true of the R-4C.  It uses crystal filters in the 2nd IF, and is
not an L/C filtered radio like the 4/a/b.  A 6 Khz filter is available as a
standard item.  The "C" radio isn't a bad AM reciever.  The others aren't
either, since you can always tune off to one sideband or the other.

Grant/NQ5T


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RE: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

[Grant Youngman]

"Grant Youngman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
>  If you want to listen to AM, why not use a receiver 
>  that was designed primarily to receive it ..?
> Just another grouchy opinion, maybe worth abt what you 
> paid for it.

Grouchy or not, it's a perfectly good opinion :-)

Sure, a lot of radio's can receive AM, including all of the Drake 2-series,
4-series, etc., and comparisons can be drawn between which one of those is
better in some sense.   But some other radios are MUCH better at AM --
SP-600 variants, most any super pro, R-390 (better than R-390A, but harder
to find working well), and many others.  The R-388 is also a much better AM
radio than the 51J4 (because of those pesky mechanical filter thingies), and
won't compress your vertebra quite as much as a 390.  In many respects, the
R-388 ends up being one of the best of the lot (especially with an external
sync detector, or at least outboard audio).

Grant/NQ5T


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Re: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

[Al Parker]

"Al Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi dt,
If you want to listen to AM, why not use a receiver that was designed
primarily to receive it, not one that was primarily designed for SSB?  It
works in both directions, it's a bit of a job to modify an AM rcvr for
SSB, & vice versa.  The Drakes are great at what they're designed to do,
SSB/CW, the SP-600's and R-388's, etc, are great at what they're designed
to do, AM, & ok on CW.
Just another grouchy opinion, maybe worth abt what you paid for it.
73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
BoatAnchors appreciated here
http://www.thecompendium.net/radio/
http://www.hammarlund.info

- Original Message - 
From: "David Toepfer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 3:55 PM
Subject: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering


>
> David Toepfer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
gang
> --
> R-4 questions:
>
> The Drake R-4(a/b/c) seems universally regarded as a file receiver.  It
seems
> bets regarded by CW and SSB users, and less so by AM users.  At 4.8kHz
max IF
> bandwidth it is usable for AM, but does not seem to lend itself to
current
> practices of AM users.
>
> Does anyone have any experience at opening up the R-4(a/b/c) IF to
> 6/7/8/10/12kHz more in keeping with current practices?
>
> Would the R-4B tend to lend itself better to such a modification because
of
> what I believe is it's LC IF filters as opposed to the crystal filters
used in
> the R-4C?
>
> 
>
> 2-B questions:
>
> The Drake 2-B seems even less well regarded by AM users.  At 3.6kHz max
IF
> bandwidth its use beyond simple communication via AM seems limited.
>
> Similarly, does anyone have any experience at opening up the 2-B IF to
> 4.8/6/7/8/10/12kHz more in keeping with current practices?
>
> Similarly, would the 2-B tend to lend itself better to such a
modification
> because of what I believe is it's LC IF filters?
>
> 
>
> R-4/2-B questions:
>
> Or, is it perhaps a simple matter of limits imposed or at least evident
earlier
> in the IF chain preclude aspirations of such receiver modifications?
>
> dt
> .
>
> --
> On Behalf of David Toepfer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist
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RE: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

[Grant Youngman]

"Grant Youngman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
> 
> The Drake R-4(a/b/c) seems universally regarded as a file 
> receiver.  It seems bets regarded by CW and SSB users, and 
> less so by AM users.  At 4.8kHz max IF bandwidth it is usable 
> for AM, but does not seem to lend itself to current practices 
> of AM users.

This is not true of the R-4C.  It uses crystal filters in the 2nd IF, and is
not an L/C filtered radio like the 4/a/b.  A 6 Khz filter is available as a
standard item.  The "C" radio isn't a bad AM reciever.  The others aren't
either, since you can always tune off to one sideband or the other.  

Grant/NQ5T


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[drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

[David Toepfer]

David Toepfer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
R-4 questions:

The Drake R-4(a/b/c) seems universally regarded as a file receiver.  It seems
bets regarded by CW and SSB users, and less so by AM users.  At 4.8kHz max IF
bandwidth it is usable for AM, but does not seem to lend itself to current
practices of AM users.

Does anyone have any experience at opening up the R-4(a/b/c) IF to
6/7/8/10/12kHz more in keeping with current practices?

Would the R-4B tend to lend itself better to such a modification because of
what I believe is it's LC IF filters as opposed to the crystal filters used in
the R-4C?



2-B questions:

The Drake 2-B seems even less well regarded by AM users.  At 3.6kHz max IF
bandwidth its use beyond simple communication via AM seems limited.

Similarly, does anyone have any experience at opening up the 2-B IF to
4.8/6/7/8/10/12kHz more in keeping with current practices?

Similarly, would the 2-B tend to lend itself better to such a modification
because of what I believe is it's LC IF filters?



R-4/2-B questions:

Or, is it perhaps a simple matter of limits imposed or at least evident earlier
in the IF chain preclude aspirations of such receiver modifications?

dt
.

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Re: [drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years. - reforming Electros....

[Eric Webner]

They don't make capacitance meters like that anymore, do they? That sounds like a good technique.
 
73,
 
Eric KA8FAN
Rodney Bunt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Rodney Bunt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang--If you have a variac (Variable AC transformer) power up the PS, 10 volts at a time, over at leasta 24 hour period.An alternative is to disconnect the electros (and assuming they are in good condition in the firstinstance) using a capacitance tester, which is a high voltage power supply with a magic eye tubemonitoring the leakage current. Look at the Magic eye tube and when there is no leakage the edgesof the bright band are very well defined, when leakage is occuring the edges get less defined andpositivly blurry.Wind up the voltage untill the edges become slightly blurry, after a period of time the edges willbecome sharp, then wind up the voltage some more, untill the edge is blurre!
d again,
 wait some moreuntill sharp, etc. etc. etc. In this way I have "reformed" some electrolityic capacitors from the1940's in a Hammarlund rig. THey are operating fine NOW.Here is a picure of the tester I use. http://www.qsl.net/la5ki/big/hc1.jpgRodneyVK2KTZ--- "Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:> > "Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterance to the drakelist gang> --> Good morning again,> > I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40> years.> > What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?> Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?> > Then, how to do a proper fireup?> > Thanks to share your experiences.> > 73 Maurizio, IZ2CED.>
 >_> Questo messaggio e da intendersi esclusivamente ad uso del destinatario e puo contenere> informazioni che sono di natura privilegiata, confidenziale> o non divulgabile secondo le leggi vigenti. Se il lettore del presente messaggio non e il> destinatario designato, o il dipendente/agente responsabile> per la consegna del messaggio al destinatario designato, si informa che ogni disseminazione,> distribuzione o copiatura di questa comunicazione e > strettamente proibita anche ai sensi del decreto legislativo 196/03 . Se avete ricevuto questo> messaggio per errore, vi preghiamo di notificarcelo> immediatamente a mezzo e-mail di risposta e successivamente di procedere alla cancellazione di> questa e-mail e relativi allegati dal vostro
 sistema.>_> This message is intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that is> privileged, confidential and exempt from > disclosure under applicable law. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or> the employee or agent responsible for delivering the > message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution> or copying of this communication is strictly > prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us immediately by return> e-mail and delete this e-mail and all attachments from > your system.>_> > >
 --> On Behalf of "Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net> Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body> Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message> Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net> Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/> --> __Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com --On Behalf of Rodney Bunt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netUnsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in bodyHopelessly Lost:
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Re: [drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years. - reforming Electros....

[Rodney Bunt]

Rodney Bunt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
If you have a variac (Variable AC transformer) power up the PS, 10 volts at a 
time, over at least
a 24 hour period.

An alternative is to disconnect the electros (and assuming they are in good 
condition in the first
instance) using a capacitance tester, which is a high voltage power supply with 
a magic eye tube
monitoring the leakage current. Look at the Magic eye tube and when there is no 
leakage the edges
of the bright band are very well defined, when leakage is occuring the edges 
get less defined and
positivly blurry.

Wind up the voltage untill the edges become slightly blurry, after a period of 
time the edges will
become sharp, then wind up the voltage some more, untill the edge is blurred 
again, wait some more
untill sharp, etc. etc. etc. In this way I have "reformed" some electrolityic 
capacitors from the
1940's in a Hammarlund rig. THey are operating fine NOW.

Here is a picure of the tester I use. http://www.qsl.net/la5ki/big/hc1.jpg

Rodney
VK2KTZ


--- "Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> "Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist 
> gang
> --
> Good morning again,
> 
> I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40
> years.
> 
> What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?
> Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?
> 
> Then, how to do a proper fireup?
> 
> Thanks to share your experiences.
> 
> 73 Maurizio, IZ2CED.
> 
>
_
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> informazioni che sono di natura privilegiata, confidenziale
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> messaggio non e il
> destinatario designato, o il dipendente/agente responsabile
> per la consegna del messaggio al destinatario designato, si informa che ogni 
> disseminazione,
> distribuzione o copiatura di questa comunicazione e 
> strettamente proibita anche ai sensi del decreto legislativo 196/03 . Se 
> avete ricevuto questo
> messaggio per errore, vi preghiamo di notificarcelo
> immediatamente a mezzo e-mail di risposta e successivamente di procedere alla 
> cancellazione di
> questa e-mail e relativi allegati dal vostro sistema.
>
_
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> information that is
> privileged, confidential and exempt from 
> disclosure under applicable law. If the reader of this message is not the 
> intended recipient, or
> the employee or agent responsible for delivering the 
> message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any 
> dissemination, distribution
> or copying of this communication is strictly 
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> immediately by return
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Re: [drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years.

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--


Bollini, Maurizio wrote:


"Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Good morning again,

I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40
years.

What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?
 

Check to see that the installed fuse is the proper one for the line 
voltage.



Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?
 

If you have a Variac or other variable AC voltage source, start by 
applying 10-20% of full line voltage.  Measure the DC outputs and if 
they are 10-20% of the expected value, then bring the AC voltage up over 
a minute or so.  Then recheck output voltages. 

If you have no variable AC source, you could just apply 12VAC from a 
filament transformer to the input and see if the output voltages from 
the AC-3 are about 10% of expected.   If so, apply full line voltage and 
recheck.


Alternatively, you could wire a light bulb in series with the AC line.  
When you turn on the supply, if the bulb lights brightly for a second 
and then dims, check the voltages and if they are good all is well.   If 
the bulb  _stays_  bright, then the filter caps are probably shorted and 
will need to be replaced. 


Or again, convert using the AC-4R board and eliminate all problems!

More than likely, if you just plug it in and turn it on it will work 
just fine!


--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta

Drake R-4C Service Information CD
http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez

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[drakelist] Question on how to fireup a brand-new AC-3 never powered up last 40 years.

[Bollini, Maurizio]

"Bollini, Maurizio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Good morning again,

I have an AC-3 in these conditions: brand new, never powered up last 40
years.

What do you suggest to do before beginning the fireup procedure ?
Do you suggest some components replacing? Which ones?

Then, how to do a proper fireup?

Thanks to share your experiences.

73 Maurizio, IZ2CED.

_
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intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible for delivering the 
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any 
dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly 
prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us 
immediately by return e-mail and delete this e-mail and all attachments from 
your system.
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[drakelist] Question on 7077 desk mic

[LeeCraner]

I recently acquired a 7077 that has been substantially "modified" by the original owner.  I'm trying to put it back to its original configuration.  Any of you out there with a 7077 could help me.

In the base of my 7077 is an impedance matching transformer that has been disconnected.  It has three leads, black, yellow and white.  If we assume the black is the common that goes to ground, which lead goes to the mic element's red lead, the yellow or the white?   Thanks in advance for your help.

73
Lee WB6SSW

Re: [drakelist] Question abt Low Cap. Cables for the Drake Twins

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
The original Drake supplied cables were all standard "microphone" 
shielded wire, with the exception of the "INJ" cable.  All but the INJ 
cable were similar to what is used in audio patch cables today.

All cables were 38" long tip-to-tip.
The INJ cable used a foam inner dielectric and phono connectors with a 
white insulation.  This cable measures 60 pF total capacity.

All other cables used the standard for the day clear polyethelene inner 
dielectric and phenolic (brown) insulated phono connectors and measures 
~100 pF.

Original Drake INJ Cable = 19 pF/ft = .160" o.d. (foam poly)
RG-62 = 93R = 13.5 pF/ft = 0.240" o.d.
RG-59 = 75R = 14.8 pF/ft = 0.242" o.d.
RG-6 = 75R = 16.2 pF/ft = 0.270" o.d.
RG-174= 50R = 30.8 pF/ft = 0.110" o.d.
Mic Cable (Belden 8410) = Hi-Z = 33 pf/ft = 0.160" o.d. (foam poly)
Mic Cable (Belden 8421) = Hi-Z = 16 pf/ft = 0.180" o.d. (foam poly)
R/S Audio Patch Cable = 28 pF/ft = 0.165" o.d. (poly)
The best choice is the Belden 8421 Audio cable from their "Brilliance" 
line.  It looks just like the other cables, and is very flexible.  The 
RG-62 is OK, but it is 50% larger and far less flexible.  RG-62 is also 
prone to shorting if bent over too small a radius.  The only pertinent 
factor is the total capacity, impedance and "loss" are not important.

Actually the standard R/S audio patch cable will work ok in the INJ role 
as long as the Injection alignment is done with the R-4 and T-4X cabled 
together.

The C-Line can use the same cables, except there are two cables (INJ and 
CAR OSC) that need to be low capacity.  The ANT lead should probably be 
RG-58 coax, but it's really not long enough to be significant.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta
Drake C-Line Service Manual


Eric Webner wrote:
My entire set of cables for my 4-line are labelled at each end, i.e. 
CAR OSC, INJ, ANTI-VOX, and so on. The cables all look the same, so I 
don't know how one would tell the difference if the labels fell off 
the cable ends.
 
73,
 
Eric

*/"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/* wrote:
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Can you identify the factory supplied cables that came with the 4
line by
looking at the plug end of the cable?
If not,is there any other way to identify the low cap. cables?
Phil W8UV
 

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Re: [drakelist] Question abt Low Cap. Cables for the Drake Twins

[Ken, WA2LBI]

"Ken, WA2LBI" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Eric,

IIRC, the INJ cable has phono connectors with a white insulation.

Ken, WA2LBI

Quoting Eric Webner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> My entire set of cables for my 4-line are labelled at each end, i.e. CAR OSC,
> INJ, ANTI-VOX, and so on. The cables all look the same, so I don't know how
> one would tell the difference if the labels fell off the cable ends.
>
> 73,
>
> Eric
>
>
> "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" made an utterence to the drakelist gang
> --
> Can you identify the factory supplied cables that came with the 4 line by
> looking at the plug end of the cable?
>
> If not,is there any other way to identify the low cap. cables?
>
> Phil W8UV
>
> 
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
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>
> -
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Re: [drakelist] Question abt Low Cap. Cables for the Drake Twins

[Garey Barrell]

Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
I thought this crap had about died out.   This is a SURE way to not 
receive any replies to your queries.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta
Drake C-Line Service Manual


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Re: [drakelist] Question abt Low Cap. Cables for the Drake Twins

[Eric Webner]

My entire set of cables for my 4-line are labelled at each end, i.e. CAR OSC, INJ, ANTI-VOX, and so on. The cables all look the same, so I don't know how one would tell the difference if the labels fell off the cable ends.
 
73,
 
Eric
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>made an utterence to the drakelist gang--Can you identify the factory supplied cables that came with the 4 line bylooking at the plug end of the cable?If not,is there any other way to identify the low cap. cables?Phil W8UVmail2web - Check your email from the web athttp://mail2web.com/ .--On Behalf of "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netUnsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in bodyHopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of messageZerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.netBro!
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[drakelist] Question T4X on AM

[James E. Lanier]

"James E. Lanier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Does the T4X have 50 watts on AM?


Jim
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[drakelist] Question about Drake TR-4's

[DW Holtman]

Hello,
 
I'm new to the Drake forum and have a couple of 
questions that I hope that someone can answer.
 
What is the major differences between the various 
TR-4 versions. IE TR-4, TR-4C etc.
 
For general operating , it the C-Line (R-4, 
T-04) radios better perfomers than the TR-4 transcivers?
 
I enjoy operating, but do not spend enough time on 
the air. I spend about half of the time on CW and half on SSB.
 
I'm debating on what kind of rig to get. Any advice 
in this direction would be very helpful.
 
I spend a lot of my spare time, restoring old 
boat-anchors, mostly Hallicrafters receivers such as the SX-100, SX-25 
Etc
 
Would also consider a swap of a good original 
Drake for maybe a nice SX-25 or possibly an SX-101. I would like to do the 
service including recapping my-self, so would like to get a rig that is 
original..
 
Thank you in advance for any informartion you have 
to offer.
 
Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

[drakelist] Question about "Odd" R4C filter

[Aidehua]

I've come across pix of some R4Cs that have a filter, twice as large as the 
other plug in filters (more depth), on the back of the radio.  It usually 
sits in the 1.5 kc position (bottom).
 
Can anybody tell me what this filter is?  Is it a 16 pole type??
 
Thanks,
Ed NI6S
 
PS:  Also looking for a Drake TR5 to 
buy

[drakelist] Question about HF Band

[Milton J. Taylor]

Greetings to all...
 
Though I am a Drake C-Line user, this question is 
actually about the strange signal I hear and see (on my spectrum 
analyzer).  I can see it aprox. every 27 KHz throughout the HF band up to 
about 18 MHz.  Level is about -60 to -90 dbm.  I hear it VERY loud up 
to and including 20 meters, but not on 15.  It tapers off somewhere between 
16 and 20 MHz.  Kind of looks like FM on the analyzer, but sounds like a 
low freq 'rumble' to a high freq screech as it slowly drifts 
through.
 
When I first heard this (last year, when I set my 
rig up after a few years off the air) I thought it was my R4C trying to tell me 
something.  I did move to a new QTH in 2001, and I don't remember hearing 
this at the old QTH, which is only 6 miles away.  But I see it on the 
analyzer (HP 8591E) with my 100' center fed (with tuner).  Is this 
a data signal from the cable company?  I did not have cable at the old 
QTH, but I do have Comcast internet now.
 
 The other thing I'd like to mention is that I 
do live near the Willow Grove Navel Air Station (about 15 miles)  and I am 
in the landing approach (we have an "air show" almost every day!).   
During certain times we get radar hits on our C-Band sat receiver, like during 
the Republican Convention.   Post-911 was very active with radar hits 
pretty constant. 
 
So, any ideas out there?  This list is 
the best out there, so thanks in advance!
 
Milt Taylor
WA3MDS (Phila. 
area) 

Re: [drakelist] Question about SW-4A

[Garey Barrell]

Jean-Marie -

I don't have an SW-4A, but according to the manual that does 
seem high, and would cut off the RF and other AGC controlled 
stages.

1.  C76 is most likely either a paper or ceramic capacitor 
rather than electrolytic.

2.  The grids of V4 and V5 show -1.2V, and they are 
essentially connected directly to the top of C76.

2.  The voltage at the "other end" of R55, the 2.2M resistor 
should be about -1 to -2 volts.

3.  If R57 was open or much increased in value, there could 
be as much as -60V on the end of R55.  This would be my 
first check!

A shorted Q4 is also a possibility.  What are the voltage 
measurements on Q4?

Let us know what you find.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta


CHERRY wrote:



Hello to the group,

Could you please told me the how many volt you have on  the C76 ( little
electrolytic condenser 0.1 MF/ 200VDC on the power board) of the SW-4A.
I measure -24 volts and I think it is too much.
Your comments will be greatly appreciated.

73,
Jean-Marie
R.L. DRAKE VIRTUAL MUSEUM
WebMaster
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[drakelist] Question about SW-4A

[CHERRY]

Hello to the group,

Could you please told me the how many volt you have on  the C76 ( little
electrolytic condenser 0.1 MF/ 200VDC on the power board) of the SW-4A.
I measure -24 volts and I think it is too much.

Your comments will be greatly appreciated.

73,
Jean-Marie
R.L. DRAKE VIRTUAL MUSEUM
WebMaster



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Re: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7

[Rocco Lardiere]

Bill,

I use Caig Labs "Deoxit D5" exclusively, and many others will recommend it
for boatanchor switches and metal/metal contact points, such as relay
contacts and tube sockets.  You can get it at Antique Radio Supply in Tempe,
AZ and many other places.  The only caveat is to avoid spraying too much on
switch wafers that can soak it up; the added capacitance won't affect most
circuits but will sometimes upset crystal oscillators.  The idea is to put
it on the metal, not the wafer.  However, I usually spray with impunity and
get away with it.  Deoxit does an excellent job removing the crud and
oxidation, and won't hurt anything under the chassis (but never spray it
near a plastic dial, because markings are often very fragile).

Others have special favorite cleaners, but Deoxit has proved itself to me.

Glad your TR7 is back on the air!  They are wonderful radios and deserve to
be carefully maintained.

73,

Rocco N6KN
- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 4:43 AM
Subject: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7


>
> -Original Message-
> From: "Rocco Lardiere"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Bill Todd"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri Sep 05 17:26:36 PDT 2003
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7
>
> >
> >
> >Bill,
> >
> >The phase lock loop seems to be not locking on any band.  You might begin
by
> >checking the power supply voltages inside the TR7 to see if the DC/DC
> >converters are working properly.  If not, the dial drifts all over the
place
> >to random freqs.
> >
> > >
> Rocco, N6KN, and some others invited me to try the following with my
ailing TR-7.
>
> "There are lots of other things to check. Often, carefully removing,
> cleaning, and reseating the circuit cards can cure problems. Follow the
> instructions in the service manual. Some cards, such as the digital
display
> card, are tricky to remove, but you need to do it to gain acess to the
cards
> below it. Its a real learning experience."
>
> He, and others were right on the button.  I borrowed a can of
"M.G.Chemicals Electrosolve Contact Cleaner" from a local TV repair shop
this afternoon and after cleaning the bandswitches again and taking off the
main board (on the top of the rig), and carefully removing and then
reseating all the boards that I could get to move, the rig worked just fine.
>
> I gotta tell ya - it is difficult to buy a can of contact cleaner that
does not also contain a lubricating agent.  Rat Shack offers a cleaner for
just under $9.00 but it also contains a lubricant of some kind.  Anyway, I
am glad I stopped by this TV repair shop on my lunch hour and the owner
allowed me to borrow his can.
>
> I told him that I would bring in some horizontal sweep tubes that I have
laying around in payment for the "rental".  Fair exchange if you ask me
(lol).
>
> Bill-N7MFB
>
>
> ___
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>
>
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[drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7

[Bill Todd]

-Original Message-
From: "Rocco Lardiere"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bill Todd"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri Sep 05 17:26:36 PDT 2003
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7

>
>
>Bill,
>
>The phase lock loop seems to be not locking on any band.  You might begin by
>checking the power supply voltages inside the TR7 to see if the DC/DC
>converters are working properly.  If not, the dial drifts all over the place
>to random freqs.
>
>There are lots of other things to check.  Often, carefully removing,
>cleaning, and reseating the circuit cards can cure problems.  Follow the
>instructions in the service manual.  Some cards, such as the digital display
>card, are tricky to remove, but you need to do it to gain acess to the cards
>below it.  Its a real learning experience.  I went through all of this to
>make my TR7A work - but it is very reliable now.
>
Rocco, N6KN, and some others invited me to try the following with my ailing TR-7.

"There are lots of other things to check. Often, carefully removing, 
cleaning, and reseating the circuit cards can cure problems. Follow the 
instructions in the service manual. Some cards, such as the digital display 
card, are tricky to remove, but you need to do it to gain acess to the cards 
below it. Its a real learning experience."

He, and others were right on the button.  I borrowed a can of "M.G.Chemicals 
Electrosolve Contact Cleaner" from a local TV repair shop this afternoon and after 
cleaning the bandswitches again and taking off the main board (on the top of the rig), 
and carefully removing and then reseating all the boards that I could get to move, the 
rig worked just fine.

I gotta tell ya - it is difficult to buy a can of contact cleaner that does not also 
contain a lubricating agent.  Rat Shack offers a cleaner for just under $9.00 but it 
also contains a lubricant of some kind.  Anyway, I am glad I stopped by this TV repair 
shop on my lunch hour and the owner allowed me to borrow his can.

I told him that I would bring in some horizontal sweep tubes that I have laying around 
in payment for the "rental".  Fair exchange if you ask me (lol).

Bill-N7MFB


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[drakelist] Question about "acting up" TR-7

[Bill Todd]

Hello group - 

I am new to this list, but I have been a fan of Drake gear for a long time (Swan gear 
too, for that matter).

Currently, I have a Drake TR-7 that has been acting up, and not being all that 
technical (sorry to say), I don't know where to start trying to troubleshoot this rig.

Lately, I cannot get my rig to work on any ham frequency.  Right now, for example, I 
have the bandswitch set to 3.5 and the dial says I am on 17935.0.  At other times, it 
reads in the 18000. range.  This is the case from 1.5 to 14 MHz.  When I switch to 15 
meters however, the frequency changes to 33343.0, and it remains the same on the 28.5 
setting.
 
I thought I might have extremely dirty bandswitches but I have cleaned them many times 
and it seemed to help a little at first.  Then, if I left the rig turned on for a 
couple of hours, it would eventually work on 40 and 20 meters, but not on 80 meters.  
At this point, it makes no difference at all.

Just as I am typing this message, the rig suddenly started to work again on 40 meters, 
and I could tune the rig just fine, but when I switched to 80 meters to see if it 
worked, nadda, so I went back to 40 meters and the rig again gave me the old 17 MHz 
freq garbage.

My hunch is that there is something that needs cleaning other than the bandswitches, 
but perhaps I am wrong.
 
Any suggestions from the list?
 
Thanks a lot - 
Bill-N7MFB


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Re: [drakelist] Question about Drakelist?

[Al Parker]

Not only different, but better here   ;-)
73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
BoatAnchors appreciated here
http://www.thecompendium.net/radio/
http://www.hammarlund.info

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:26 AM
Subject: [drakelist] Question about Drakelist?


> Is this Drakelist the same as the Drakelist on QTH.net.
> I noticed that QTH.net tells me to send mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> If I send mail to that address it does not post.
> If I send mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] it post.
> Is this the same list or is it a different reflector?
> Thanks,
> Dan N4VET
>



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[drakelist] Question about Drakelist?

[OTAKEBI]

Is this Drakelist the same as the Drakelist on QTH.net.
I noticed that QTH.net tells me to send mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
If I send mail to that address it does not post.
If I send mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED] it post.
Is this the same list or is it a different reflector?
Thanks,
Dan N4VET

Re: [Drakelist] Question about voltages

[ka3hsw]

On 23 Mar 2003 at 13:42, Carlos Augusto S. Pereira wrote:

> 
> Dear friends,
> 
> I am thinkingseriously about changing the voltage in my shack. Today I have 126V 
> (measured) 
> and I am afraid it can damage or shorten the tubes life in my Drakes(B and C lines). 
> Besides, 
> my amplifiers (SB220 with Peter Dahl Transformer and Ameritron AL80B) would work 
> better with 
> 220V. My main problem is that brazilian energy companinesprovide 127v or 220V and 
> Drake 
> equipments ask for 120 or 240v. 
> 
> What you guys think about that? 
> 
> 73 Carlos PY4RO
> 
> Carlos Augusto S. Pereita PY4RO
> www.qsl.net/py4ro
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Typically, electronic equipment is rated for +/- 10% from nominal line voltage.  
Therefore, 126  volts would be perfectly acceptable for your Drakes.  And hollow-
state stuff is usually much more forgiving than much of the solid-state stuff is!

73 de KA3HSW

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Re: [Drakelist] Question about voltages

[Kevin B. G. Luxford]

Carlos,

Im would go for 220 Volts.

Current is half, and you may find regulation is better.  If your Drake
demand 240 volts and you supply 220 volts, you are running your
filaments / heaters 8.3% under rating.  This may lengthen their lives. 
On the other hand, if you need to build the boltage up a bit, I would
suffest you get a transformer with, say, a 12 volt secondary, connect
its primary to the supply and connect one lead of the Drake transformer
primary to the supply, the other lead of the Drake transformer to one
end of the 12 v transfdormer secondary, with the other lead of the 12 v
secondary going to the supply.  Measure the voltage across the Drake
transfomer primary.  If it is 220 v - 12 volts = 208 volts, then reverse
the leads on the 12 volt secondary.   This is a boost circuit that I
have used sucessfully.  You should end up with 232 volts across your
Drake transformer primary.

One caution, the 12 volt transformer secondary has to be able to take
the current which flows in your Drake transformer primary

If I am not making myself clear, then let me know and I will draw you a
circuit diagram and email it to you.

73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP

> "Carlos Augusto S. Pereira" wrote:
> 
> Dear friends,
> 
> I am thinking seriously about changing the voltage in my shack. Today
> I have 126V (measured) and I am afraid it can damage or shorten the
> tubes life in my Drakes (B and C lines). Besides, my amplifiers (SB220
> with Peter Dahl Transformer and Ameritron AL80B) would work better
> with 220V. My main problem is that brazilian energy companines provide
> 127v or 220V and Drake equipments ask for 120 or 240v.
> 
> What you guys think about that?
> 
> 73 Carlos PY4RO
> 
> Carlos Augusto S. Pereita PY4RO
> www.qsl.net/py4ro
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[Drakelist] Question about voltages

[Carlos Augusto S. Pereira]

Dear friends,
 
I am thinking seriously about changing the 
voltage in my shack. Today I have 126V (measured) and I am afraid it can damage 
or shorten the tubes life in my Drakes (B and C lines). Besides, my 
amplifiers (SB220 with Peter Dahl Transformer and Ameritron AL80B) would work 
better with 220V. My main problem is that brazilian energy 
companines provide 127v or 220V and Drake equipments ask for 120 or 240v. 

 
What you guys think about that? 
 
73 Carlos PY4RO
 
Carlos Augusto S. Pereita PY4ROwww.qsl.net/py4roE-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]