Hi guys,
I’ve been lurking for quite some time, but still have an interest for this
great group. Having purchased a larger cruising boat last year (Bavaria 44), I
have tried for over a year to sell my 1986 C&C Mk-III. I initially tried to
sell it myself. I listed it on Craigslist, advertised
Gerry,
The shaft will not clear the rudder. I drop the rudder to replace the cutless
bearing. The process takes me about half an hour to remove the rudder. I’ve
done it three times over the years. I use anti-seize on the quadrant bolts.
It makes a huge difference.
I dd it again this
John,
The metal body of the zipper is probably corroded. Soaking it in vinegar is
supposed to help. I've free'd up a couple my repeated moving them back and
forth until the corrosion is worn down enough for them to move freely again.
It all depends on how bad they are.
Jake
Jake Brode
Thanks Fred. I’m hunkered down with one boat in the water and one on the hard.
It looks like we will get a bit of wind and rain, but nothing serious. I’m
ready, just in case Florence can’t follow the line on the predictions. 😉
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Ha
Mark,
I feel your pain. I've got one boat in the water (C&C) and one on the hard
(my new Bavaria). Not sure we'll have time to haul the C&C before the storm
hits. Lots of folks want to haul and there's only so much time during the
day.
Take good care of your boat. A wise old friend once told
Kevin,
I was contacted by Pop Yachts shortly after listing my boat on another web
site. They seem genuine, but the online reviews I have read haven’t painted a
very good picture. A lot of one start ratings. Evidently they mark the price
up to make their profit, but if you get your bottom
Ron,
I use the performance formula. It supposedly increases lubricity, as well as
increasing the cetane rating. I’ve used it for over 20 years and have no
complaints. I use it in my boats and my Duramax powered diesel Suburban.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Graham ,
I got rid of the cheek blocks 18 years ago. They didn't serve any useful
function. I go directly from the genoa car to either the primary or secondary
winches. The lead angles are almost the same, and they're quite good, even
with the genoa car full forward for the #3 jib.
Midnight
Brien,
I have a bimini on my 35-3. I will send you a pic off-list.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 08:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler
Subje
If somebody tried to sell me turbo wash, I would have thought they were pulling
my leg.
When I was an aviator we used to send the young lieutenants to supply to pick
up some “jet wash” or a left-handed crescent wrench.
Thankfully, I don’t have a turbo either (except in my Suburban), other
Charlie,
A heat gun might soften the adhesive to where it might make removal easier.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 11:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Josh,
That’s a nasty hole. How old is the elbow? Time for a new one. Standard or
stainless?
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 15:21
To: C&C List
Cc: Jo
Guys,
As a long time lister and C&C owner I have truly enjoyed this forum. I
have recently decided to move up to a larger boat and put my beloved 1986
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress" up for sale. I am working on a full
equipment listing, which will be available soon.
The boat is set
Brian,
I haven't been in my anchor locker in a while, but I don't recall seeing a
wood backing plate. I will check this week. This would be a good time to
replace it with some G10 or something similar.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
-Original Message--
Brien,
I'm a Danforth user. Not sure how well the Rocna would fit.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2018 13:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadle
Tom,
Im with Dennis on this one. Keep the compressor close to the power source
and buy more hose. You wont notice any pressure drop in the hose. The
electrical resistance in the extended wiring may affect your compressor by
pulling more amperage (due to the voltage drop).
If your batte
Looking great Joel. The shade will be much appreciated. And it is a great
place for the solar panels. Out of sight and out of mind.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April
Chuck,
I have a Harken traveler that was retrofitted. It fits into the channel
nicely. Not so sure about the Lewmar. An interesting note, I have seen the
aluminum channel mounted both ways (U shape up and U shape down) on several
35-3 models. It seems to work either way. That may be an
Brian,
My boat came with a vent in the forward hatch. I removed it, as it was a
source of water in the v berth area. I have since replaced the lens. The
filler plug for the vent blocked some of the light (but was at least
watertight).
I have a Nicro solar vent in the hatch over the main sal
I have a few things on my list this spring.
I’m finishing my rebuilding of the battery box. I started the project last
spring and didn’t finish it before I splashed…
Rebuilding the folding prop
Replacing the cutless bearing (ugh)
Wiring up my Actisense between my Garmin GPS and the Ray
Dan,
That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure. It’s odd that
you leaked so much fluid though. The backstay is the highest part of the
system. I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down to zero and
then stop leaking altogether.
I’ve had my seals r
Francois,
It’s great to hear that someone else has had good experience with the Martec
prop. I’m happy with mine. I will be sending it in for the first rebuild.
I’ve owned the boat for 18 years and this is the first time it will be needed.
Of course, in those 18 years I’ve only logged 80
Nothing quite like blowing your first chute one hour into a 6 day race…
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 10:49
To: cnc-
Christian,
Water pooling on the side decks is an issue, along with the black streaks that
seem to radiate from the toe rail. I have seen others use small pieces of
sponge or cotton rope to let the water wick over the side. I would certainly
try this before cutting into the toe rail. Give
Josh,
I use the term stopper as a generic for sheet stoppers, halyard stoppers,
jammers, rope clutches, or almost any kind of mechanical cleat (except a cam
cleat. I call those cam cleats). I have some really old Schaefer rope
clutches that work just fine. They hold 3/8” or 10mm line well
Josh,
3/8” should be plenty big for your halyards. ½” is certainly overkill. Why
not split the difference and go with 7/16”? A slightly larger sheave should
create any problems. As strong as halyards are these days, some would argue
that 3/8” might be a bit too large. I’m sure your haly
Sean,
The 35-3 does tend to be a tender boat, at least until you heel it to 15
degrees. Once the initial heel is over, the boat stiffens up, but I’m always
the first one to reef when I’m racing.
I have the deep keel (6’ 5” draft). I can see definite advantages to the c/b
version. I wo
Daryl,
It’s not as simple as adding another blade. There is much more to it. You
have to evaluate the total blade area as well. Ultimately, a professional
recommendation and the experiences of the listers here would be your best
resources.
It you can’t swing a bigger prop, sometimes i
Sergey,
What brand of propeller do you have now and what are its dimensions? That
would help a lot. Personally, I prefer the 2 blade folding propeller for
its low drag, as racing is my primary activity. I have a Martec Elliptical
prop, which I have been very happy with. Performance in rever
I’d suggest a Bitcoin. It might turn out to be worth more than the boat
someday. Or not…
Jake
C&C 35 Mk-III
“Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2018 14:54
To: c
Brien,
The keel stub extends roughly 4-6” from the hull down at the aft end. I can’t
tell from the picture if you damage is to the glass or the lead portion of the
keel. Either way, the suggested methods of sealing it with epoxy will work.
Some glass and fairing will make the repair blend
Scott,
I've done the portlights on my boat.twice, both time with Plexus. I am
happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also. I might
give that a try next time.
In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and a
thin putty knife. The putty kni
Scott,
I might have a new, spare one aboard my boat. Contact me off list and I
will let you know.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Baker via CnC-List
Sent: Wedne
Steve,
Those sizes sound appropriate for a 35.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of steve
dewar via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 12:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list
Graham,
We release the baby stay any time the #1 is in use. The rest of the time it
is tensioned, even in the slip. When the #3 is up, it tacks cleanly through
the foretriangle. I have seen the mast pump before and know the benefits of
the baby stay. It’s seldom used on the Chesapeake,
Dave,
I’ve had my keel off and the baby stay stud is definitely not screwed into the
keel, at least on a 35-3. As far forward as the baby stay attachment is, it
would miss the keel entirely. I see a substantial backing plate of some sort
that is bonded into the centerline of the hull. Thi
Dave,
Greg and I have both used Kay Gee Plastics. They are small time, but do great
work. Prices are not too bad either. They are located in Norfolk.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.co
Pete,
I replaced my fluorescents with LEDs also. I picked some up cheap from eBay
and they have worked well for 4-5 years. They don’t get a lot of use, but
certainly shine bright when needed. I removed the entire fixture and attached
the LED strips to a piece of pine.
Jake
Jake Br
Neil,
I drilled a hole about two inches from the bottom or the rudder in the
starboard side. I have threaded a machine screw into it. I pull it out at
each haul out. I seal it with caulk before launching. Works great. I don’t
see much water at all. Sometimes just a few rusty drips over
Rick,
I bought a big hunk of elk hide at the boat show many years ago. I make my own
spreader covers. So far, I’ve only made one set and they have been on the boat
for five years and are looking good still. It doesn’t take a lot of skill,
just a pattern, a pair of scissors, and a leather
Yup, that’s the same stuff I used to replace several panels on my boat.
They’re not very visible, but It’s unmistakably bathroom shower wall material.
😉
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] O
Bruce,
That sounds about right. There are a lot of variables in the equation though.
I’ve been in the water six months as well and my zinc is probably 70% or less.
I’m in a brackish river off the Chesapeake. I usually don’t have to replace
the zinc during the season. By the time I haul
Fred,
My 86 model used butyl. I rebedded the inside genoa tracks with more butyl…
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 2
Scott,
Welcome to the list. You will find a lot of good advice and quite a few
characters on this list. The Mk-III owners (and some former owners) are
here to support you if you have any model specific questions.
We take C&C's very seriously here. Everything else..not so much.
Jake
Neil,
I keep my transmission in reverse after setting my folding prop. This holds
the shaft in place. I have heard and read that Yanmar does not recommend using
reverse. Perhaps that only applies to the fixed prop, like Joel mentions.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight M
Tony,
My 1986 mast appears to be a one part enamel of some kind. I've used
Brightside enamel for touch ups.
My masthead sheaves are accessed by taking the cap off the top of the mast.
The cap is held on with a couple of Philips screws (on the top). The axles
are captive in a recess in the
Neil,
I don’t use the storage area for much of anything. It could be used to warm
sandwiches or store pizza. Sail ties are probably the best use for it.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.
Neil,
Congratulations. You’ll love the Mk-III. There are a lot of Mk-III owners
(and former owners) on this list. We can help with a lot of model-specific
tasks/problems.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 9:22 P
Harold,
I may have what you need. I removed a complete B&G system from my boat two
years ago. I still have all the pieces. Contact me off list and we can
discuss exactly what you need.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [m
Richard,
I am among one of the many 35-III owners on the list here. I love mine. It is
a bit tender, but sails to its rating and wins a lot of races. It is
comfortable to cruise with two, but I’ve also raced with 7 on-board in the
Annapolis-to-Bermuda Race (on “The Office”, another35-III
I have Poly Planar speakers in the cockpit and I’m very happy with them. I had
Bose marine speakers, but they eventually succumbed to the elements.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Be
Jeremy,
I close up the gaping hole with a piece of plywood that is cut to fit. Drill
the holes to match the hatch (every other one) and it will screw down with the
original screws. You can even sail with it if you seal it well. It does limit
exits from the cabin, which can be a safety con
Jonathan,
I've removed all of my floor boards and never touched the pole in the
galley. The port side pole attached to the partial bulkhead and hooks into
the railing in the galley. I'll have to look closer next time.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
-O
Doug,
A boat is very much like a mistress.
I buy her a place to stay (a slip).
I buy her stuff I don’t tell my wife about (electronics and sailing goodies).
I sneak away to spend time with her.
I tell her she’s special and there is no one like her.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-
I picked mine up from another lister at a hefty discount. Score!
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Reinardy
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 10:56
To: cnc-list@c
Dave,
The controls are not really redundant. The cunningham does a much better
job of flattening the main. The cunningham tightens the luff in the bottom
third of the sail very effectively.
The babystay can shape the main a little, but it mainly used to prevent the
mast from pumping. The thick
Dave,
We use sheets and twings on our spinnaker. No guys needed. This way we can
end-for-end the pole pretty easy, at least in moderate air. The twings go to a
small block on the rail near the shrouds. The sheets go to blocks on the stern
quarters.
In heavy air sheets and guys are pr
Dave,
I find the secondary winches very useful when singlehanding. They are well
within my reach. They are essential when running a spinnaker though. I got
rid of the turning blocks on the quarters. Yes, they probably helped make a
fair lead to the winch, but the extra friction was not worth i
Sometimes the application of some heat helps the prop let go. Put a wet rag
over the cutlass bearing, otherwise it will get roasted. A small propane
torch usually doesn't generate enough heat, but is worth a try.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
David,
I don't use any treatment on my prop either. I clean the boat about every
two weeks. The prop has stayed clean so far this year, but I know that
barnacles will be attaching to it soon. They do every year. I keep after
them with a putty knife and scotchbrite pad. As long as I keep it
Ron,
You are so right. I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up,
with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday,
Alan,
I too suffer from excessive roach. My light air tactic is to stand on the
helmsman seat and twang (a technical term) the backstay to release the top
batten. It works…most of the time. The lighter the air, the less backstay
tension I have.
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list
Alan,
It seems that the smaller your headsail, the faster you go. Pretty soon you
can race bare-headed and be at the front of the fleet.
Seriously, where do you sheet your 105 to? I am looking to install an inboard
track for my #3 to the cabin top, just outboard of the cabin top rails.
Gene,
The original washers on my boat were not very substantial. They did flex and
bend. After my keel R&R, I have new washers that are much more substantial
now. Actually, my new washers also have backing plates that spread the load
out much better. I highly recommend them.
Jake
Chuck,
I did the Adler-Barbour conversion on my ice box a long time ago. It is air
cooled and works well here in Virginia. It was not a difficult project.
Tedious, but not difficult. The compressor and coils reside in the port
lazarette on a small shelf that I glassed to the hull. I can
I also recommend the Sound Down insulation. It works well and is fairly easy
to install.
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 10:50
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine com
Charlie,
For your benefit and the rest of the list, I have dug into the dusty archives
of several British car companies and have learned a lot about British pipe
threads.
B = British
S = Standard
P = Pipe
P = Parallel (Yes, P can mean more than one thing…)
T = Tapered
BSPT thread
Josh,
I thought I needed a BSPT street elbow. The link you sent is for a BSPP street
elbow. The sender is BSPT (tapered threads). I know the thread pitch is the
same, but will the tapered threads seal in a (BSPP) parallel fitting?
I’ve also seen BSP elbows. Not sure if they are tapere
Guys,
I’ve installed an electric VDO oil pressure gauge, but the sensor install is
giving me a bit of a problem. I bought the tee fitting from eBay, like Josh
and several others. It is listed here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota
Joe,
800gph seems plenty. It will rid your bilge of pesky water seepage in no
time. If you have a serious hull breach, a much larger pump will be
required,
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@c
I could see where a kit like that could save you a lot of antifreeze.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:38
To: C&C Li
Josh,
I just have such a fondness for 2 stroke engines… All of my young, formative
memories are in a boat with a small Evinrude spitting smoke and oil fumes out
the back. Riding snowmobiles was another enjoyable pastime (all 2 strokes
too). Nothing smelled better than Klotz synthetic 2 st
Matt,
Welcome to the list. I raced on The Office with Joel in the 2014
Annapolis-Bermuda Ocean Race, so I know the boat pretty well.
I'm also another 35-3 owner. If you have questions, you're in the right
place.
Cheers,
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampto
Here’s one more reason not to use an iPad for your primary (or only) navigation
source.
http://gcaptain.com/maib-experienced-launch-skippers-reliance-on-ipad-navigation-app-contributed-to-collision-on-humber-river/
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
Josh,
I always fill my tank up at the end of the season to keep condensation down. A
half full tank will “make water” with the daily heating and cooling cycles.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-l
I’ve used a pressure washer inside the bilge. It works, but be prepared for
some overspray. I turned my 4000psi washer down to just under 2000psi. It
does a heck of a job, but can damage wiring, paint, and bilge pump switches if
you’re not careful.
Use in the engine compartment is fine, a
Bev,
Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners. Joel has had some
good success with citrus based cleaners too. Simple Green and citrus are
probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of your
cleaning solutions responsibly.
Jake
Jake Broders
Chuck,
The 3/8” MLX will be plenty strong. Heck, I might have gone down to 5/16” if
my clutches would grip it. I’ve replaced several sheaves. The originals, if
they are in good shape, will work will all rope halyards. The plain bearings
will eventually develop play and will need to be r
Peter,
If the windows are original, they were probably put in with Plexus. It will be
a very hard, brownish adhesive. It sets up very hard and usually requires a
grinder to remove. If the adhesion has let go, you may be able to remove some
of it with a stiff putty knife. I use a 4" angle gr
Joe,
I got one too, with my name on it. Somebody’s been hacked!
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba,
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 13:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List FW: Electronic
Joel,
My Windex light is wired to the tricolor running lights. Works great and you
don’t have to think about it. No extra wiring down the mast either! Mine is
still the incandescent bulb, but it’s held up great for the past 6 or 7 years.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight
Dave,
Those all sound like worthy upgrades to an existing pole. It should look like
new when you’re done. A small water-activated strobe is a good choice. If you
could attach it part way up the pole, it would be great for visibility. If
it’s too heavy, it may affect the ability of the po
Alan,
The original Velcro was very strong, but everything else I’ve tried has not
lasted long. My panels are now all screwed to the overhead. I was tired of
watching them fall off the ceiling when bashing into big waves. The SS screws
are all capped with covers to match the overhead. Loo
Josh,
Looks great. This project is on my winter work list as well. Guess it’s time
to order mine before they’re all gone.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
via
Josh,
You had the right answer to this project some time ago. From your Dec 2014
posting:
The guy on this link has the whole project figured out.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility
Joel,
I’m not sure aluminum would be up to the task. I think stainless might be a
better choice. Same sizing, but much stronger, but even stainless will bend
under the right load. Perhaps a spar maker might be of assistance here. They
bolt on cranes all the time. A premade one might be
l.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2016 11:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF
The VHF / AIS has N2K in/output - so it _should_ be plug and play to your
plotter...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-10-16 10:28 AM, Jake Brodersen via
Fred,
My VHF is due for replacement. Adding AIS was always on my to-do list anyway.
This is a great combination. How would I get the AIS info to my chartplotter
(Garmin) or Raymarine instruments? Or should I wait for Raymarine to introduce
their own version of VHF/AIS? I’m sure it’s onl
Colin,
Nauta makes some good flexible tanks. I’ve had one in my 35-3 for over 15
years and no problems or smells.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Collin
Ferguson via CnC-Li
Tom,
Running a diesel like that under no-load conditions won’t help it much.
Running it at the slip in gear would provide some load to the engine and be
more beneficial. We usually have a 45 to 60 minute motor to the race course,
which helps keep the engine in top shape. I usually set it
Bill,
I’ve had to separate the shaft from my coupling several times. It has always
been an long, arduous process. I can’t imagine how it would ever work its way
loose. The first time I had it apart, I even sanded the inside of the coupling
to allow the shaft to slide back in place without
Barbara,
I will agree with the others. Try tightening the keel bolts first. It is
certainly the cheapest option and the first remedy that I would try. Does your
model have a keel bolt under the mast? If so, that one is probably loose due
to not being tightened regularly. Is there any hi
Kevin,
My battery box has a fairly large hole going into the engine compartment as
well. It appears to be original. The engine compartment is ventilated,
although not as well as I would hope. Better to vent into the engine
compartment than into the cabin. My batteries are under the quart
Kevin,
I have been using Optima Blue Top batteries for a long time. They are an AGM
type battery. The initial cost is higher, but the service life is outstanding.
I only have two batteries, but I alternate using them when we race so they
both get exercised. I have one that is now exhibit
Dave,
The mixing elbow is a common culprit. Removing and cleaning it is always a
good idea. While you have the injection hose off, run the engine to check
for water flow (point it into a quart jar or something like a milk jug).
You should see a regular stream of water. If the water flow is
insu
My boat was changed to the Harken traveler a long time ago. I refreshed the
bearings last year. The car glides from side to side now.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Alan got it right. I’ve replaced mine the same way. It’s easy, but tedious.
After about 12/13 years, it’s almost time to do it again. Mine is a bit crazed.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
Jeremy,
The seacocks can trap larger items. You may want to use a wooden dowel from
down below to loosen up the clog. If that doesn’t work you may need to remove
the cockpit drain hoses to clear them out.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
F
Edd,
I mounted a 12,000 btu window unit in the companionway. It keeps the boat
chilly even in the high 90’s. We only use it a couple times a year, but for
the price it sure beats hotel rooms. Yes, it’s a bit heavy and hard to stow,
but I’ve worked out a spot at the saloon table next to t
Joel,
Fortunately we didn’t do any anchoring in the Annapolis-Bermuda race this year!
Me: 5’ of chain and 100’ of 3/8” of three strand anchor line. We racers keep
it light. 8-)
Jake
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sen
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