Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

New York / SUNY Maritime takes sail donations – they are very close to you on 
Throggs Neck.  

 

http://www.sunymaritime.edu/Waterfront/Support%20the%20Waterfront/Boat%20Donations/Frequently_Asked_Questions.aspx

 

Have donated sails to them in the past.  

 

Brian

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Baumes 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 2:12 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

 

Z-Sailes in Stamford CT can arrange s donation to charity. Not sure about 
pickup.

 

Eric

 

On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers,

 

Does anyone know of an organization (preferably charity) that accepts old sails 
as donations? I’d love to find one in the northeast that would be willing to 
come and pick them up. Have quiet a few old headsails and a couple of 
spinnakers that need new homes. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 


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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - Search Light ?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

Back in February you mentioned you bought the “Marinebeam Ultra Long Range CREE 
RLT Illuminator”  as an LED search light.  How did you like using that light?   
 Though expensive, did it perform well?   Would you buy it again / recommend 
it?  

 

My < 2 year old 1 M candle search light quit this past fall and I need to 
replace it with something that works well and lasts longer than 2 years.  This 
was the 2nd such light to die on me in 4 years, and they mostly just sit  on 
board, each being used 2-3 times a season.  

 

Thanks

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Have used GFO packing for years.  It seems to be better than the standard
flax packing.  

 

https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing 

 

Just make certain you get all the old packing out first.  What should be a
relatively simple task took me considerably more time than I had allocated -
in other words, a fairly typical boat project.  

 

Good luck

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly
petew via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2016 10:55 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

 

Happy New Year to All!!
I have a 30-2 and the stuff box was leaking noticeably all last season.
While periodic tightening helped, I'm guessing it's time to renew the
packing.  
And While a dripless seal would be great, it's not in the boat "budget".
 
Any thoughts to share on preferred packing materials would be greatly
appreciated. 
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
1991 30MKII
Deltaville, Va. 
 
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

IIRC, that is the origin of a national database of vessels

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

 

While clearly not a perk and extremely unlikely to occur, I read that a
documented vessel can be requisitioned in a national emergency.

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 

On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:47 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
  wrote:

 





   Patrick,?My understanding of documentation is that the vessel is now
under USCG protection. If it is stolen it is now a federal offence, not just
a state offence. What this means is the USCG will search your boat not just
the local cops. Not sure of any other perks from documentation.?
   Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.



 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Which Flex prop are you getting?  Do you have a Yanmar 3 GM30F engine?

 

Am looking at replacing my prop. 

 

Thanks

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 3:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed 
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it 
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it.

 

Dave

C&C 35 MK 3

Saltaire

Bristol, RI

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint > Vivid For Sale

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I have also used Micron 66 with great success for the past 6 years.  Changed to 
it after years with VC Offshore when was more actively racing but VC’s weekly 
cleanings and wet sanding prior to launch just became annoying.  

 

Had planned to try VIVID and bought 3 gallons as was going to be racing more 
but have decided to stay with Micron 66.  

 

So I have 3 gal. of VIVID and 1 gal. of Pettit’s 120 solvent available for sale 
at a very good price to any interested party.  

 

Please contact me off list:  nausetbeach  optonline.net

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 5:43 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint

 

Mike

If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's experience...use 
Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite meticulous about Azura 
and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one year he had so much growth 
on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september that the boat had a hard time 
making headway under power...the prop was foulded extremley bad...next year Bob 
asked this list for advice with his prop fouling issue...I knew he had such 
good results with Micron 66 on Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he didn't 
mind having a painted black prop before launch rather than shiny bronze he 
could just try painting it as well with Micron 66...I believe he did paint the 
prop and achieved good results...something about the critters in the Northwest 
Arm, very prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper oxide 
toxins...Micron 66 might just have the right copper toxins and added biocide 
for the moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so this coming 
season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes, think 
you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron CSC, Amercoat 
ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look somewhere esle for bigger 
gains, the performance of thse paints are quite similar...if your boat's bottom 
is in top notch shape go for one with multiyear ablative properties and do the 
job once ever 3-4 years instead of every year, like i do.

The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of some 
antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume due to 
higher copper oxide content

 

Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the summer 
on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water, shallow at 
about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until 
september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2 liters 
solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does about 2 
years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before application 
before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison and no 
noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat over blue 
Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that Mike's C&C 33 MKII 
is very slippery as well

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net  

 

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in December.  
It is how he described.

I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
(similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race week after in 
water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2nd time Labour 
day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to Halifax 
from its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be some slime 
and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  
Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in 
NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing 
on the vertical surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.

Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC.  
Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to 
work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week November.  Was 
dirty on each haulout.

When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me 
consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10 years 
and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada.  They 
insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.

All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration even

Re: Stus-List Defender's Warehouse Sale

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Aaron,

 

The sale is 10% off everything in the Defender catalogue and that is the
same whether you order online or buy at the warehouse and take it with you.
The warehouse is less than 60 minutes from New Haven and IMO it is worth
making the trip if you can.  Eliminating the $ for shipping, especially
important for heavier or bulky items, can make it worthwhile though you will
pay CT sales tax of 6.35%.  Just the savings on bottom paint can make the
drive worthwhile.  Any / everything else is then gravy.   

 

The warehouse is a zoo especially on Thursday and Saturday mornings of the
sale.  Anything not in stock has to be shipped, though they usually have
most things.  One year I placed an order for a halyard with the rigging shop
when I arrived and it was ready by the time I was ready to check out.  

 

The "flea sale / seconds / clearance" section and the manufacturers' reps
section can also yield great finds / information.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2015 10:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Defender's Warehouse Sale

 

Are any listers planning to go to Defender's warehouse sale this weekend? Is
it worth going? I'll be in New Haven's area this weekend and trying to
decide if I should drop by...

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

You probably could find a marine electrician on City Island to do the crimps
for short $ after you measure the runs you need, mark the spools with tape,
and bring the wire spools, lugs and shrink wrap tubes to him.  That way you
could get "good" cuts and crimps from a "good" crimper without shelling out
the $700 Denis mentioned.  

 

He is getting $ for very little time on his part, and you are getting top
quality cuts and crimps without investing capital.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 9:33 AM
To: Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

 

Fred,

 

Thanks, but the lengths are all a question mark. I purchased a large spool
of red and black cable and are going to do the runs under this and over
that, and then cut/crimp. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 











 






 

On Mar 25, 2015, at 7:01 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Edd - I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.  I just
need to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the stud sizes for the
lugs.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

 

On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:





You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:

http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lu
g-Crimper-p/m-500.htm

I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)

There are imported version for a lot less.

 

Dennis C.

 

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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

A BIC “grill” lighter for < $3 from your local CVS / Walgreens / grocery store 
works very well – just keep the flame moving…

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Damian 
Greene via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 6:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the tubing  
/ melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections? 

 

I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a couple 
on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.

 

By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to www.marinehowto.com 
  - fascinating reading, and I learned so much! I 
also now know who to go to if I am doing any major electrical work on my boat 
(he lives in Maine).

 

Damian Greene

C&C 34 GHOST

Bass Harbor, Maine

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

The surface prep and the paint compatibilities are critical.  

 

As Mike suggested, calling the Tech Help 800 # at Yachtpaint is the best way
to get specific answers for their paints.  They also know how their paints
fair over other companies' paints, whether the prior paint needs to be
removed or just a good sanding will suffice.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 9:39 AM
To: Rick Brass; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

 

Micron 66 needs salt to work.  My water is about 1200ppm halfway up the
Chesapeake Bay.  If you are saltier than me then you might try
66...otherwise steer clear.  It can flake off in hand sized flakes.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Mar 30, 2015 9:32 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite
bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I
should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but,
HEY, I'm getting old(er).

 

In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her
new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to
use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less
expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote
that seems to be on the boat now.

 

I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the
two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt
water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in
brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed,
in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town.

 

So which version of Micron will work better here?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 


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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Gary R and / or Gary K

 

Was there any indication as to what about the prop that was causing the 
vibration?  Do you know what type of prop(s) the original and replacements 
were?   

 

I have had a fair amount of vibration after replacing the shaft, coupling and 
engine mounts, and the only culprit left is the prop itself.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 5:00 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

 

Hi Gary,

 Thanks for the encouragement.  I was familiar with the prop problem and 
have been following the boat for a couple of years.

 

Fair winds,

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:28 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Gary
Ron solved the vibration problem with a new prop last year smooth as 
silk now. He also had the backstay area reinforced and the hull was  addressed  
as well, it should fly through a survey no problem. The boat is in better shape 
than Ron is !

  Gary K. "Liberty"

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

When I had my gasket replaced on my Yanmar a few years ago [was getting oil in 
the coolant] the mechanic also highly recommended it would be a good time to 
have the injectors checked  / rebuilt, and have a compression check on each of 
the cylinders – one was near the minimum and the others were fine.  It all made 
a big difference in how the engine performed, the exhaust was much less sooty 
and the transom actually stayed clean for a while.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 4:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles

 

John,

 

Thanks. I think I'm in for a head gasket replacement. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 21, 2015, at 4:18 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Edd - one other thought.  Give McMichael (Mamaroneck) a call.  Very good 
mechanics who may have suggestions.  They did the gasket replacement for the 
sail drive on Paws.  

 

John



Sent from my iPad


On Jun 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers,

 

Having some troubles with the Enterprise's Universal M-35 Diesel engine and I'm 
preparing  myself for the worst. 

 

Has anyone on the list completely replaced their engine and, if so, what did it 
cost you including time out of commission and labor? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C&C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com  

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles > Injector Rebuild

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Mike, 

 

I also have a 3GM30F and at the time [2010] the work on the head gasket and 
injectors was done the engine was ~ 25 yo, 12 of which I had been the owner.  
Was getting quite a bit soot on the transom, cold starts were becoming 
increasingly difficult and the idle was rough.  As I had never done any major 
work on the engine and since the head was pulled and sent to a machine shop to 
be reconditioned, the mechanic recommended having the injectors sent out to a 
shop to be rebuilt, rightly concluding the “spray pattern” was not optimal.  It 
took about a week + but part of that time was due to the injector shop owner 
had recently passed away and his widow was doing the work, without all the 
“certified training.”  The injectors had to be redone.  The mechanic also 
adjusted the valves so everything was back in spec.  

 

Pulling just the injectors did not appear to be an overly complicated process.  
The injector rebuild itself included replacing the nozzles and was US$125 for 
each injector.  The total hours billed included a few other repairs / 
replacements so would estimate the labor for the injectors themselves were ~ 3 
hours all in.  Add in a few other minor parts like copper washers. 

 

HTH

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2015 8:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles

 

Brian

 

What was involved with checking the injectors and having them rebuilt?  Was it 
time consuming to remove them and costly for rebuild?

 

Mike

Persistence

Yanmar 3GM30F

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset Beach 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 5:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Nauset Beach
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles

 

Edd,

 

When I had my gasket replaced on my Yanmar a few years ago [was getting oil in 
the coolant] the mechanic also highly recommended it would be a good time to 
have the injectors checked  / rebuilt, and have a compression check on each of 
the cylinders – one was near the minimum and the others were fine.  It all made 
a big difference in how the engine performed, the exhaust was much less sooty 
and the transom actually stayed clean for a while.  

 

Brian

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Stus-List Best Engine>Yanmar 3GM + Prop?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

John, Mike and any others with a Yanmar 3GM30F

What is the make, diameter and pitch of your props, and can you get to the
one hour rated RPM of 3600?  

Back in 2010 I had an engine overheat alarm and discovered the coolant
overflow tank was full and had an amount of oily substance mixed in.  There
was very little coolant left in the engine.  The mechanic discovered a blown
head gasket was the cause.  The head was sent to a shop to be "rebuilt" and
a few other parts replaced. 

Last month [just after Edd's engine woes came to light] I had another
overheat alarm, and again discovered the coolant tank full and the same oil
mix.  Am assuming the head gasket is blown - again.  The mechanic has not
looked at it yet.  Obviously, something is "wrong."  

The July edition of Cruising World had a timely article about props and
stated an over pitched prop puts additional wear on the engine and can lead
to cavitation.  Nothing new there but started a possible theory.  I have not
had dark exhaust so did not think the prop was over-pitched, but there is
some pitting on the prop blades so maybe there is cavitation and an over
loaded engine.  Also have excessive vibration so the clues seem to be going
in that direction.  I rarely take the engine up to 3000 RPM though did have
a several hour delivery at 3200 this spring.  Have never tried but do not
think I could get up to 3600.  [Have read the Yanmar tach's are not all that
accurate and have not had the RPM's verified independently.]  Still this
seems to be another indicator the prop may be over pitched.  

I originally had a Martec folding 16 D x 14 P prop though after the lack of
much reverse led to a "near miss" incident I replaced it in 2002 with a
Flex-O-Fold with a 16 D x 13 P at the recommendation of Flex o Fold.  The
reduction is 2.61.  Am thinking the increased surface area Flex prop is
overloading the engine even though the pitch was decreased by 1" compared to
the Martec. 

Anyone have any thoughts?  

Thanks,
Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Engine?

We have Yanmar 3GM30F in our Ferrs 33 which is similar hull shape to
C&C33-2.  We make 6.2 at 2300 RPM and can just squeak out 7.0 at WOT

Mike
Persistence

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Engine?

HI Brian

Our 34 has the Yanmar 3GM with Martec folding prop.  Clean bottom cruising
is 5.5, max is about 6.  As I recall, your max speed is supposed to be about
80% of theoretical hull speed with throttle wide open??  Another variable is
the calibration of the knotometer and if using the GPS the impact of current


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT


- Original Message -
From: "Brian Morrison via CnC-List" 
To: 
Cc: "Brian Morrison" 
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 00:47
Subject: Stus-List Best Engine?


> Hello,
>
> I often sail with a group of sailors that have more modern and 
> somewhat larger boats than my 1979 C&C34. When there is no wind and we 
> are forced to motor I have difficulty keeping up. With a clean bottom 
> my cruising speed is about 5-5.5 knots. I have an Atomic 4 engine. I'm 
> wondering would

> a Yanmar or a Westerbeke give me 7+ knots?
>
> Brian C. Morrison



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Re: Stus-List Best Engine>Yanmar 3GM + Prop?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks Andrew, Joel and Mike.  That Martec is the same as what I took off in 
2002.   Never did make 7 kts with that, though do not recall ever trying.  The 
tach did not work when I had the Martec so have no readings for comparison.  

 

Am not by any stretch a mechanic.  According to the Yanmar manual the 
“continuous rating” is 3400 with the “one hour rating” of 3600.  I usually 
operate the engine ~ 2750-2800 which is just over 80% of continuous and 78% of 
the one hour.  Have heard for years that 80% is the rule of thumb for diesels.  
The 3200 delivery trip this spring was a one off aberration due to time 
constraints.  Do not think I could even get to 3600 if I wanted to.  And from 
what I have read the engine “should” be able to reach that, just not be 
operated at that level for a period of time.

 

That said, still have some pitting on the prop blades and more vibration than 
can be good.  Both signs of cavitation.  Even at 75% of continuous [2550] have 
vibration.  Have had the engine mounts replaced after I replaced the prop shaft 
and coupling in an effort to mitigate the vibration possibly due to a bent or 
out of balance shaft.  Everything was aligned by a mechanic who has a good 
customer base, so assume was done correctly / accurately.  

 

A friend has a sister ship and easily gets to and cruises at 7+ kts and I can 
barely make that only when really press to WOT and never do that.  He also has 
a Flex prop though the “racing” version which has smaller blades.  Have asked 
him to check his diameter and more importantly pitch.  

 

All this has led me to conclude that my prop is over pitched.  

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Engine>Yanmar 3GM + Prop?

 

It sounds to me like you may be over-revving your engine. My rule of thumb with 
my boat (same engine as you) and when I get on a boat I'm delivering, is to get 
into open water and, in gear, push the throttle wide open. My cruising RPM is 
no more than 75% of that number, which on Peregrine works out to 2200 or so.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 10:31 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

John, Mike and any others with a Yanmar 3GM30F

What is the make, diameter and pitch of your props, and can you get to the
one hour rated RPM of 3600?

Back in 2010 I had an engine overheat alarm and discovered the coolant
overflow tank was full and had an amount of oily substance mixed in.  There
was very little coolant left in the engine.  The mechanic discovered a blown
head gasket was the cause.  The head was sent to a shop to be "rebuilt" and
a few other parts replaced.

Last month [just after Edd's engine woes came to light] I had another
overheat alarm, and again discovered the coolant tank full and the same oil
mix.  Am assuming the head gasket is blown - again.  The mechanic has not
looked at it yet.  Obviously, something is "wrong."

The July edition of Cruising World had a timely article about props and
stated an over pitched prop puts additional wear on the engine and can lead
to cavitation.  Nothing new there but started a possible theory.  I have not
had dark exhaust so did not think the prop was over-pitched, but there is
some pitting on the prop blades so maybe there is cavitation and an over
loaded engine.  Also have excessive vibration so the clues seem to be going
in that direction.  I rarely take the engine up to 3000 RPM though did have
a several hour delivery at 3200 this spring.  Have never tried but do not
think I could get up to 3600.  [Have read the Yanmar tach's are not all that
accurate and have not had the RPM's verified independently.]  Still this
seems to be another indicator the prop may be over pitched.

I originally had a Martec folding 16 D x 14 P prop though after the lack of
much reverse led to a "near miss" incident I replaced it in 2002 with a
Flex-O-Fold with a 16 D x 13 P at the recommendation of Flex o Fold.  The
reduction is 2.61.  Am thinking the increased surface area Flex prop is
overloading the engine even though the pitch was decreased by 1" compared to
the Martec.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks,
Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Engine?

We have Yanmar 3GM30F in our Ferrs 33 which is similar hull shape to
C&C33-2.  We make 6.2 at 2300 RPM and can just squeak out 7.0 at WOT

Mike
Persistence

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com&

Re: Stus-List Starter

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Had the same symptoms last year.  Tested the voltage across the start button 
terminals on the back of the panel and found 12+ volts so concluded that was 
not the issue, but could not find the cause.  The mechanic tested and found the 
same voltage, but insufficient current.  There were partial breaks in some of 
the wires at / inside the wire harness that at times would connect and other 
times not, until it quit completely.  He cut the harness out and using butt 
connectors directly wired the panel.  Worked every time since.   

 

Moral of the story; check voltage and current.  And any wiring fault can lead 
to what appears to be a faulty start button.

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starter

 

Start first at the switch. Test for power across the terminals with the button 
pushed. If no voltage is seen on the 1st push, it is likely the contacts within 
the switch are dirty. You can sometimes temporarily clean the contacts by 
multiple pushes of the starter button with the ignition key off. If you have 
voltage across the button, then check for voltage between the button and the 
solenoid. Clean the terminals on the wires, button, and solenoid. That you can 
start on the 2nd button push suggest that the solenoid and fuses are OK.

 

Ed

C&C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:04 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then could be 
fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground at the 
transmission to engine

bolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to check.

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung device



 Original message 
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Date: 07-28-2015 11:51 (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net   
Subject: Stus-List Starter 

I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my 
Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts 
right up. 

What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at 
the push button switch or at the solenoid? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Heat Exchanger

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

I have a 3GM30F and Section 4.2 of the GM Series Service Manual says the fresh 
water enters the cooling tube cover through a hole drilled at one end of the 
cooling tube, circulates around the ~24 raw water tubes inside the cooling 
tube, then exits through a hole at the other end of the cooling tube cover.  

 

My guess would be if you have “additional” holes in the cover in the form of 
the perforations you noted [beyond the two that are supposed to be in the 
cover] it would not affect the cooling  and would be OK.  It appears the “hot” 
fresh water coolant from the engine block is just pumped into the heat 
exchanger body and flows through and around the cooling tube cover and its raw 
water tubes  and then is pumped out the bottom of the heat exchanger body.  It 
looks like the whole cooling tube assembly is basically bathed in the fresh 
water coolant, so there should not be an effect on cooling efficiency.  

 

I have a mechanic working on my engine now [determined to be blown head gasket] 
and will ask him for an opinion.  

 

Brian

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 4:16 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar Heat Exchanger

 

Well, I bought a C&C 37+ a few weeks ago and have been having nothing but 
trouble.  It started with a fuel injector seal failure that allowed combustion 
gases to escape into the cabin.  Below the injectors are pre-combustion chamber 
that where frozen in place requiring the cylinder head to be removed.  While 
the head was out, I decided to do a valve job.  And since the heat exchanger 
had to be removed, I decided to have it cleaned out at a radiator shop.  There 
is an aluminum sleeve around the cooling tubes in the heat exchanger that had 
perforated.  My understanding is that raw water circulates through the tubes 
and fresh water surrounds them.  It seems there is fresh water on both the 
inside and outside of the aluminum tube, so I'm not sure if the perforations 
are a problem.  The radiator shop guy wasn't sure either.  It wouldn't matter, 
except the heat exchanger is no longer available from Yanmar and the cooling 
tube assembly is $1K, and can only be replace if  (big if) I can get the frozen 
one out.  What happens if I ignore the problem?  The radiator guy pressure 
tested the assembly and it held pressure.  Any ideas?  I'm really desperate!

 

Gary

'90 C&C 37+

High Maintenance

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar push button died

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Nate

Had the same issue last week on my Yanmar 3GM30F with a B Type engine panel.
Was getting near complete voltage drop across the 2 terminals of the key
switch when the key was turned on and nothing from the button.  Turned out
to be the wiring harness plug at the back of the panel.  Most of the wires
were corroded inside the plug though all looked well from the outside.  The
plug was cut out and the wires connected directly.  Works like a charm.  

So as Dave said, check all your wiring in the start circuit before you start
throwing $$$ at it replacing parts.  

Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Godwin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 8:16 PM
To: Nate Flesness; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar push button died

Nate, it may not be the switch. I have an original in perfect working
condition if catch my drift...

Check your battery ground/cabling/connections. Let me know if it is the
switch and if so, you can have it.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 -Ronin

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 16, 2014, at 19:55, Nate Flesness via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> I have a 2QM15 yanmar - after a few intermittents, my engine start button
has failed completely. Someone knew what Cole-Hersee switch can replace it -
anyone remember, or have another suggestion?
> 
> Nate
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

And then there was the discussion of whether putting LED bulbs in old fixtures 
would be compliant with USCG regs.  Many said no as the whole unit, both bulb 
and fixture, has to be certified.  And that was why for a long period there 
were so few USCG approved LED running lights; the approval process was long and 
involved and many companies did not want to expend the $ or effort…

 

So, if an incident were to occur and it was discovered that the whole fixture 
was not in compliance [and lights were relevant to the incident] might 
liability fall differently and insurance companies not be forthcoming with any 
coverage? 

 

Any current thoughts?  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Running Lights

 

Now this really confuses me, when I first went LED on my forward running 
lights, I replaced them with red and green, and then someone, I think at the 
boat show, or maybe in one of the boat magazines, said you had to have white 
coming through a colored lens, so I changed back to white.

Now my port running light is broken, and I am in the market, and now I am 
really confused!

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List EasyBlock Mainsheet Traveler

 

Four or five years ago, I replaced the bulbs in my existing running lights and 
stern lights with LED bulbs. IIRC I got them from Dr. LED and the red and green 
bulbs were about $10 or $11 each, and the bulb for the stern light (I think it 
is called a festoon bulb, a cylinder that has pointy contacts on each end) was 
about $5 or $6.

 

The bulbs in my running lights are a type 90 bulb, which is sort of hard to 
come by anyway. The supplier explained I needed a green bulb behind the green 
lens and a red bulb behind the red lens to get maximum light transmission and 
meet the USCG 2 mile visibility standard. Much of the light generated by a 
white light is apparently absorbed when it goes through the green lens.

 

I asked about a 5 mile bulb, but was told that there was no point on a light so 
close to the surface. As part of the mast rebuild, I installed a 5 mile 
tricolor  light at the top of the mast for use when offshore.

 

I recently noticed that the teardrop (I kind of think of them as cat’s eye) 
running lights on my bow are beginning to corrode and look shoddy after 38 
years of service. I, too, wonder if there is a direct replacement for the old 
light fixtures available somewhere.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com   via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2014 6:44 PM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List EasyBlock Mainsheet Traveler

 

Does anyone have source for replacement lens for our teardrop running lights, 
circa 1981?  Orin alternative, experience with replacements(led) I see on 
internet?

Bill Walker

Evening Star

CnC 36

 

 

Sent from my HTC

 

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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 66 
for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from mid 
July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore I had 
previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing weekly and 
10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.   

 

As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled.  

 

Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a little 
brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off from the 
lawns of the homes on both shores.  

 

Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
most expensive.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the paddle 
wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty it is 
time to go cruising. 

Doug Mountjoy

Pegasus LF38

Just west of Ballard, WA

 

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure washed 
this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the hull looked 
about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the yard.  I am 
most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 compared to 
Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used in this area.

 

The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains higher 
levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would likely 
reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat that 
races.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:  
cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
To: Bill Bina - gmail;   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought. 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:

I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it was 
my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the keel. 
I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too aggressive on my 
ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-) 

Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.

 

It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to a 
plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen cylinders 
of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic pipe 
handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with just 
a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got the 
special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach 
the keel.

 

I use it between diver trips.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From:   Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some flotation 
that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning at a slip a 
short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to work my way 
around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little 
longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard to do. 

I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver would 
do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.  

I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the 
broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to 
th

Re: Stus-List Rigging Question

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Tim,

 

Have not seen your set up, but in a similar situation, the mainsheet bail on my 
boom was creating larger holes and the rigger attached reinforcing plates to 
the boom to take the load from the bail bolt.  The plates are diamond shaped 
and are attached to the boom with short screws / bolts tapped into the aluminum 
of the boom.  

 

They look like the last plates pictured in this section, though obviously you 
would need to match +/- the curve of your mast:  

 

http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Boom_bails.html#Reinforcing_Plates_for_Standard_Boom_Bails
 

 

The work was done by Chuck at Sound Rigging in Essex.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 3:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Rigging Question

 

There was mention recently of 'hooks" that insert into the mast collar then 
bolt to the mast to hold the deck down when running rigging is under tension.  

 

On my 35-3, the bolt through the mast has started to tear at the mast column 
and elongate the holes.  I could change the length of the "hooks" and create 
another hole somewhere else on the mast.  In that case, has anyone used a 
sleeve to stop the relatively small bolt sawing at the mast tube?  Does anyone 
have any other solutions out there (e.g. wire to the mast step each side)?

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

Mojito

C&C 35-3

Branford, CT

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII > Barient 24ST

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

The smallest line I have been able to  work in a Barient 24ST is 3/8”.  On
occasion even a 3/8” line will need a slight assist to stay in the tailer,
especially if the line has a vectran core or other relatively stiff core
material.  

 

Some line is actually metric [either 9 or 10 mm] though shown on websites as
3/8’s.  

 

Some line stoppers can be adjusted for the line size; ex. my Spinlock
stoppers have two different cam sizes.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2015 10:29 AM
To: mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII

 

Cool to see some activity here from C&C 33 mkII owners and congrats Bradley
on the new boat . 2015 will be my fifth season with the boat (previously own
a 29 mkII) and this boat is amazing. Very easy to sail fast, tracks well so
fairly predictable if caught overpowered. I have the '87 "millesime" so the
mast is from Offshore spar and is very nice to work with.
 
I would be interested to know what kind of upgrades and modifications other
owners have done on their boat. You can reply in private if you prefer.
 
 I try each year to put some love and $ in my boat to make her stronger,
faster and more comformtable. This year i plan to laminate a reinforcement
grid in the flat area of the bilge in front of the keel, (i think this part
flexes too much in heavy sea), new rudder, clean the fuel tank, change the
hoses (fuel and exaust), change the shaft, new PSS, new cutlass bearing,
engine compartment isolation, new speedo, new spninlock rope clutch for
halyard. the boom is in the basement for maintenance of the sheaves. Will
check bushings at the same time. and i'm having the navtec backstay rebuilt,
an other time...
 
I want to change my jib sheet and i would like to know the smallest size
that could still work well with my Barient 24 ST?? 
 
Pretty much the 2015 to do list. 
 
Thinking about changing the headstay this year too, maybe go with Dyform...
but i think i will wait one more year, my list is long enough.
 
Bruno Lachance
"Bécassine" C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc.
 

  _  

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2015 10:08:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKII
From:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Congrats, Bradley, great boat, I bought my C&C33 MKii two years ago. Yes,
the sheaves are grooved for wire halyards. I elected to keep the wire
halyards because the rope size works better in the clutches and self tailing
winches. You may want to check the sheaves bushings for wear; I  replaced
the bushings in my sheaves with oillite bronze from Princess auto. My
instruments were also trash so I put in a Raymarine speed/depth/ wind
package, very nice and economical. I have made many upgrades in the past two
years; feel free to email me off list if there is anything I can help you
with.

 

Mike Amirault

"Lovely Cruise" C&C 33 mkii

St Margarets Bay, NS.


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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

NYC Mayor DeBlasio did that last year on Staten Island and looked what
happened this year…   

 

 

At least no one has brought up Wally’s favorite bow bovine….   oops…

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 12:51 PM
To: Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

 

When I see that little sh@thead groundhog I am gonna bash his head in!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 12:47 PM
To: Jake Broderson
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

 

Well, it HAS gotten all the way up to +4° F so far today… I guess that still
qualifies as “winter,” despite the fact that it’s almost March…   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Feb 27, 2015, at 10:37 AM, Jake Brodersen mailto:captain_j...@cox.net> > wrote:






You can sure tell it’s winter on this list.  The conversation goes downhill
in a heartbeat.

 

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Re: Stus-List Halyard guide

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

An alternative is to mark the halyard itself aft of where it exits the line
stopper.  Using a permanent marker on the halyard [or "sewing" some whipping
thread through the line] and then make a single mark on the cabintop, or
just know the midpoint setting is when the mark is x" aft of the line
stopper.Then when hoisting the sail you will know when to stop  when the
mark is that x".  Easy to communicate to new crew as well.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:35 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Halyard guide

 

I have seen pictures of numbered and marked strips attached to the cabin top
underneath where halyards etc. run so that you can use the guide relative to
a mark on the halyard to set the height/tension.  Does anyone know a source
of those strips or an easy way to create them?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue > Safety Blankets ?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I have a couple of those silver “space” blankets on board just for this purpose 
– though have never used or tested them.  

 

Cheap sleeping bags are a great idea – also good for those evenings when some 
guests might not have prepared for how cool it can get out on the water.  

 

Brian 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 8:10 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue

 

Just get a 2-3 cheap sleeping bags from Walmart or Academy Sports.  $10-15 in 
nice stuff sacks.  We have several on Touche'.

Dennis C.

 

On Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 6:02 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Well Done!

You were the right guy at the right time. 

I made a mental note about the blanket.  Down in Georgia we sail all year long 
and the water does get into the 50-60's in the winter, I bought self inflating 
PFD's for winter season racing but did not think about the blanket. I need to 
add a blanket or 2 to my MOB bag.

Thanks for sharing. 
  
Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



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greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List Awful vibration

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

A couple other things to explore beyond the engine / shaft alignment already 
mentioned: 

 

A possibility might be the hub of the Flex prop is not seated properly on the 
shaft and therefore is off center.  If the key moved out of position as you 
slid the hub on, the hub could ride up on it and not be fully on the shaft.  

 

The cutlass bearing may be worn, especially if it had several years of 
operation with that out of balance Martec prop.  Try to dive on the boat and 
see if you can move the shaft at the strut.  A rule of thumb I heard years ago 
is anything more than 1/16” of play is too much and the cutlass needs to be 
replaced.  

 

Another possibility is the shaft is not true.  The prior owner might have 
caught a lobster pot or other line and bent the shaft.  

 

While the prop could be reset while in the water it would require a 
knowledgeable diver and some of the pre-coated set screws that came from Flex o 
Fold with the prop.  Otherwise, a short haul is in order, or living with it and 
chase down the cause(s) after hauling for the winter.  

 

I did get the 16x12 blades for my old Flex hub [replacing the 16x13 blades 
originally sold to me] and it made a significant difference in reducing 
vibration.  

 

Good luck

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robin Drew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 10:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Awful vibration

 

Did you check you engine/ shaft alignment? It's a common cause of vibration.

Robin


On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I purchased my boat, a 1984 35Mk3 three years ago. The first season the boat 
would vibrate badly when I'd slow down under power. I'd put it in reverse, 
throw it into forward (ouch) and things would be fine. The blades always opened 
initially when I motored off the mooring but if I slowed down the flow over the 
blades exceeded the centripetal force and folded one of the blades and not the 
other . So, that winter I sent the 2 bladed prop back to Martek to have it 
rebuilt. They said the blades were so badly oxidized that they couldn't weld 
them to build up the stops so, they replaced the blades with another pair 
(used) they had available. To be sure the problem was fixed I also had the cone 
clutch in the transmission replaced. Last summer the only thing that changed 
was that the boat now moved forward when the lever was pulled back to reverse 
and visa versa. The vibration still happened under the same scenarios. Having 
had the blades replaced and the transmission rebuilt there was no way to tell 
whether it was that the blades were the opposite hand as what I had previously 
or if the transmission was done incorrectly.

 

This spring I purchased a 2 blade Flexfold geared prop and guess what, the 
vibration problem is still there and forward and reverse are still, yep 
reversed. So, I know that the direction issue is the transmission and that is 
easily fixed by rotating the linkage arm. But, I'm totally baffled as to why 
the vibration problem has not been resolved.

 

So, if anyone has any suggestions or ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave J

Saltaire

C&C 35Mk3

Bristol, RI

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Re: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Active Captain had a sale through Defender for this light last Labor Day and
I bought one so I know I am "legal" should some flares slip past the 36
month expiration.  The June / July BoatUS Magazine has an article on
signaling devices [flares / LED / lasers] and the LED received a below
average grade.  

I agree with Jonathan that it is unlikely anyone would notice or know what
it is and still keep a bag of flares on board, both USCG and SOLAS.  

Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 4:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?

Might be a "no brainier" financially, would you really want to rely on an
orange flag to draw attention to yourself if in trouble during the day?
While I know we'd all have vhf radios as well, I'd rather have flares - and
even at night  I doubt if many bozo's on the water would even know what a
flashing ... ---... would even mean!! 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 15, 2016, at 00:16, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> An orange distress flag for daytime (which is included) and you meet the
regs


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Re: Stus-List Bad Vibes from Maxprop?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Chris,

It sounds like the pitch of your prop may be too high.  Several of us on the
list have been told by "experts" that X" of pitch was the correct amount for
our engine / gear reduction / boat, only to get excessive vibration and not
be able to reach anything close to maximum RPM even in a full throttle test.
I believe all of us have significantly reduced if not eliminated the
vibration by stepping down the pitch &/or diameter of the prop.  

Possibly a way to test if the vibration is actually coming from the rudder
is to have someone go below and feel the rudder shaft when under power.
Would think you would be able to feel something if the vibration is that
bad.  

>From what I have read, if you went to a 3 blade from a 2 blade the prop
should be considerably smoother.   

Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Tirtirau via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2016 8:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Tirtirau 
Subject: Stus-List Bad Vibes from Maxprop?

I got a strange vibration/sound coming from outside the hull, under the
cockpit floor, when motoring in my 37. After seeing two separate mechanics I
was told it was the rudder vibrating and creating harmonics as the water
pushed by the Maxprop flows by it. Apparently harmless but annoying and to
me unsettling nevertheless. I cannot reach cruising speed with that sound
and vibration under my feet.
Any ideas? I have the original 2-bladed prop. Should I revert to original,
or can anything be done about the Maxprop? I talked to the Maxprop people
and I had the pitch set according to their specs but it looks like the C&C
rudder design doesn't like it.
Christian Tirtirau,
C&C 37 Northern Light
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Re: Stus-List LED masthead lights and steaming/deck light

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Bill &/or Fred,

 

The steaming / foredeck sounds like a great light and will probably get one.  
Have had 2 of the Forespar units and the foredeck light dies within a couple 
years. 

 

>From one of the posted reviews it sounds like the electrical connection is 
>made with butt connectors.  Did either of you provide any strain relief on the 
>wire or is the weight of the wire hanging on the 3 connections? 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 12:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED masthead lights and steaming/deck light

 

I will vouch for the deck/steaming light, I got one this spring on Fred’s 
recommendation, and it is sweet!

Seems to be sealed. Very bright.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED masthead lights and steaming/deck light

 

Joel — I replaced all my mast lighting this past winter with products from 
MarineBeam:

 

http://marinebeam.com/led-tri-color-navigation-and-all-around-anchor-light/

 

http://marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/

 

I’m very pleased with the quality of the gear, and the installation went well.  
I pulled new 16AWG wire for everything to the bottom of the mast, then pulled a 
new common 12AWG ground from there to the panel, along with 16AWG runs for the 
hots.  The new lights are far brighter than the old ones, and seem like they’ll 
do well in the weather.

 

At the same time, I pulled new VHF and cell repeater antenna runs, and 
installed new antennas at the masthead; and I also installed an LED Windex 
light wired with my compass light switch.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Aug 9, 2016, at 8:21 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

It will be too hot in Annapolis for me this weekend, so I want to start on my 
boat show shopping list.  I want to replace my anchor light with an LED 
anchor/Tri combo and replace the steaming light with a steaming/deck light.

 

Any favorites?  Any dogs to avoid?


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List LED masthead lights and steaming/deck light

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred and Bill.  The loop and a wire tie around another supported 
masthead wire(s) is a great idea.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED masthead lights and steaming/deck light

 

Brian — I used heat-shrink butt connections, then made a loop behind the 
deck/steaming light fixture; so there’s no direct strain on the connections 
themselves.  The three wires for the deck/steaming light are then wire-tied 
with all the wires coming from the masthead, where’s there’s tons of strain 
relief; both antenna cables (heavy low-loss LMR-400 coax) exit the side of the 
mast through Cable Clams for strain- and chafe-relief, and all the wires 
through the masthead for the anchor light, masthead tricolor, Windex light and 
wind instrument go into a low-profile waterproof aluminum junction box where 
there’s strain relief; the masthead combo light is mounted on the top of this 
box, for a little extra height and visibility.  I’ve posted a photo of the new 
masthead setup on my web server:

 

www.postaudio.net/webserver/masthead.jpg 
<http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/masthead.jpg> 

 

— Fred

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Aug 9, 2016, at 11:28 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Bill &/or Fred,

 

The steaming / foredeck sounds like a great light and will probably get one.  
Have had 2 of the Forespar units and the foredeck light dies within a couple 
years. 

 

>From one of the posted reviews it sounds like the electrical connection is 
>made with butt connectors.  Did either of you provide any strain relief on the 
>wire or is the weight of the wire hanging on the 3 connections? 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

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Re: Stus-List Hard starting

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

John,

 

Had the same issue a few years ago and eventually could not start the engine
at all.  After trying to find the issue with a multi-meter without success
I called in a mechanic.  He found the cause was poor / partially broken
connections in the wiring at the harness behind the Yanmar panel was letting
voltage show across but not sufficient amperage.  He cut out the old plastic
harness connection and directly wired things together with butt connectors.
Have not had that issue since.  

 

Good luck.

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2016 7:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Hard starting

 

Our 3GM is exhibiting periodic hard start symptoms of just a click of the
solenoid when you push the starter button and on the third try starts just
fine.  Sometimes starts just fine on first try.  Applies to only one of our
two batteries.  We recall a thread on this subject a while ago but do not
recall the solutions.  Can you point me to the thread??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel > J Boat Regatta

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

Where is the sailing area?  The posted NOR does not indicate where they will be 
racing, and the SI’s were not posted as of yesterday.  Would assume outside 
unless the weather is really poor, but maybe they want to be inside for any 
shore spectators...  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ahycrace via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ahycrace 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

 

We will arrive in newport on thursday and stay at the Newport Yacht Club. 
Probably sail out to the course fri and sat to see what we can see without 
getting in anybodys way. Enjoy your trip as well as your time at the block. 
   

 

Gary K. "Liberty"

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 8/10/17 9:52 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Chuck Gilchrest mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel 

 

We plan to leave Padanaram on Sun Aug 20 and stay at Newport Yachting Center 
for a few nights before heading to Block Island.  Hope to catch some racing en 
route to Block 

Chuck Gilchrest 

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram,MA

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

When I did this 10+ years ago [albeit not on a C&C] I used the existing pieces 
as templates and then dry fit them, sanding any rub points from my less than 
perfect cuts.  All was good.  Applying multiple coats of epoxy and then varnish 
on the pieces, particularly on the bilge board, built up the widths of the 
pieces so they no longer fit together well.  Had to sand and re-coat the edges 
and the bilge board still rubs.  Something a little forethought might have 
prevented.  

 

The moral of the story is to leave sufficient space on the edges when 
confirming a dry fit for the thicknesses of whatever coatings you apply.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 8:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

 

Did this last year on our 34'. Dave and Mike are spot on with everything. 
Definitely tape the lines where you will be cutting to protect the veneer. I 
also used a circular saw, table saw, jig saw and a router. Used a hand planner 
for final tweaking of the cuts.

My new lines were not the same width as the old but it wasn't much of an issue. 
When you trace out the templates it isn't too hard to line everything up.

One thing I did that I didn't see mentioned was to drill all holes before 
applying any epoxy. I also epoxied the whole thing to seal it in completely, 
then finished with epifanes. I used West system 105/207. The 207 is a clear 
hardener that won't mess up the top finish.  I did about 3-4 coats of each. A 
foam roller for the epoxy and foam brushes for the varnish. I tried the cheapo 
chip brushes but continuously got stray bristles everywhere.

The epoxy if I remember correctly you didn't want it to dry completely between 
coats. 
The varnish I wet sanded in between coats. Gradually getting higher in grit 
between each.

Try to control dust as much as possible. Do this in a clean area where there 
isn't much traffic. Or surround it all by plastic to prevent anything from 
getting into it.

It was definitely a long, tedious process. But it was definitely worth it. Our 
old sole was chipping and so deteriorated. But once this went in, it was like 
it was a new boat.

Kevin Paxton
82' 34
Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD

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Re: Stus-List Replacement chain plate

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

A local rigger should have a source to fabricate a new chain plate.  When I 
replaced mine several years ago I found a rigger who could get them made but my 
diesel mechanic “knew a guy” with a machine shop who did it for about half what 
the rigger was charging.  You might need to pull the other chain plate to be 
used as a template.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 11:50 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List Replacement chain plate

 

Hello everyone,

 

We are just getting the decking back together on Freya IV (C&C 35 mk I) and it 
would seem that the gentleman that was doing some of the deck repairs has lost 
the port aft chain plate.  Any ideas where I could get a replacement chain 
plate made in the Greater Toronto Area?

 

Your assistance is appreciated. 

 



Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you 

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Stus-List Sail Drives in general > Maintenance?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Am beginning to look for the "next" boat [this winter's armchair boat
project vs. the real ones] and have come across some that have sail drives,
though most are traditional shaft drives.  

 

What is the group's experience with sail drives from any engine builder?
Google has revealed Volvo and Yanmar have the bulk of the market and sail
drives are becoming the rule vs. the exception on newer boats over the past
10 years or so.  While they are reported to be quieter / less vibration than
traditional shafts, from what I have read  the maintenance beyond changing
the oil in the drive unit annually [just as one would for the engine] is not
really a DIY project.  Replacing the 2 seals, particularly the one keeping
the water out of the boat, sounds like they are a yard job - and expensive
ones at that; on the order of $2 - $5k depending on the location of the
yard.  And the "recommended" seal replacement interval is reported at every
5 to 7 years.   While many owners may go well beyond that, what happens to
an insurance claim if one has exceeded the manufacturer's "recommended
service" interval?  

 

Any experience / information with sail drives is appreciated.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod
Stright via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta Sail Drive

 

Anyone out there have any experience at replacing a Volvo Penta Sail Drive
and transmission?  Recommendation on a good source for parts and expertise
hopefully on the east coast.?

 

Thanks

Rod

2004 C&C 99

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Re: Stus-List Sail drives in general

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the responses on sail drives.  I have many of the same 
reservations expressed, but also have the same with the PSS shaft seal not 
seeing the value of changing from the traditional packing.  That said, if a 
potential new to me boat had a PSS shaft seal I would not reject it out of 
hand.  As with many things, it comes down to knowing the pros and cons of any 
“new” technology and applying the appropriate maintenance.  It is reassuring to 
hear the multiple positive experiences from sail drive owners on the list.  

 

>From the very small sample of responding sail drives owners on the list, there 
>seems to be a very different cost for the seal change between the Yanmars and 
>the one Volvo, with John shelling out 2 x’s what the Yanmar owners did.  
>Granted it is more than replacing packing, whether GFO or regular flax.  It 
>does not seem to just be a regional “cost of living” variation as believe 
>Barry is also on western LIS [Mt. Sinai area] and IIRC Ted is / was further 
>out on the island, vs. Ron on the Narragansett ??  Though McMichaels does have 
>a premium price reputation [from what I have heard is one of the better, few 
>remaining yards in the area] it may be more a Volvo vs Yanmar cost 
>differential.  Some further research is needed.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ted Drossos 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2017 11:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ted Drossos 
Subject: Stus-List Sail drives in general

 

I had also had reservations about sail drives when looking for my next boat. I 
spoke with a lot of people who actually owned a boat with a sail drive and the 
overwhelming majority of owners really liked them. There was nothing said that 
would would have prevented me from purchasing a boat with a sail drive. So I 
did. 

 

I have owned boats with shafts and sail drives and can tell you from first hand 
experience that I prefer a sail drive. Some people worry about the seal at the 
hull failing and sinking their boat but if you ever saw that seal, you would 
realize it would be very difficult for it to fail. When I purchased my boat I 
had the original seal replaced as it was 14 years old but still looked new. I 
tried to puncture the old seal with a screwdriver but it was extremely 
difficult to do. It was easier to damage the bellows on my previous boat with a 
PSS dripless shaft seal. The sail drive seal is protected by the hull and sits 
about 8 inches above the bottom of the boat. You would have to do a huge amount 
of damage to your hull before the seal would be exposed. 

 

Changing the seal is a DIY project if you are somewhat handy. I will definitely 
do it myself next time. My engine had to be slid forward a couple of inches to 
remove the sail drive. There was one mechanic doing the work and he had no 
problem moving the engine by himself. The sail drive on my boat is 16 years old 
and doesn't have any corrosion. Keep it coated with the proper paint and you 
won't have issues. Maintenance costs are similar to those of a shaft drive. I 
wouldn't hesitate to buy another boat with a sail drive as I don't see any 
downside. 

 

Ted Drossos

C&C 110

Lady in Red

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Re: Stus-List new haylards

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

A consideration:  If you have self tailing winches, the 8 mm may not hold in 
the winch and you have to hand tail.  A single person trying to grind the winch 
and tailing at the same time can be a challenge.  

 

I have self tailing Barient 24’s for halyard winches and the 8 mm will not stay 
in the “jaws” of the self tailer.  They are adjusted as small as they can go.  
May just be my winches…  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 3:28 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards

 

With cover, 8mm would be my thought.  To go smaller, I'd consider stripped 
Dyneema.  Maybe 1/4 inch.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Sun, Dec 10, 2017 at 1:52 PM, Jim via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dennis

Thanks for the info and pictures. Your set up looks like what I'm trying to 
achieve.

When you say a small diameter high tech halyard should work, what diameter 
where you thinking?  I purchased 8mm VPC (but have not tried it).

I'm reluctant to go much smaller as it may be hard to hold / pull on.

Thanks again  for the pictures, I am going to take a closer look at my end to 
see what is possible.

Cheers, James

ps: my 35-1 is s/n 75 so very close to yours.  

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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mast Step Support Rebuild Project Write-Up

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Apparently many Sabres have the same issue – on a similar email group to this 
one they call it “the dreaded mast step disease.”  Wood stringers wrapped in 
fiberglass under the mast step and then drilled limber holes through the wood.  
Does not take a genius to see any water would soak the wood and eventually 
cause rot.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mast Step Support Rebuild Project Write-Up

 

The 30-1 and 35-1 suffer from the same issue and the fix is pretty similar. I 
did mine in 1995 I think and it wasn’t real expensive in $$, but it was a lot 
of time with a chisel getting semi-rotted wood out. I still don’t get why C&C 
did such a bad job with this, doing it the right way at build time would have 
cost maybe $20 extra.

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Re: Stus-List Lewmar Ocean 1 adjustable genoa car pics

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

Are the blocks you used a double aft and a double with a becket forward?  

 

What came on my boat was a single with a becket on the aft end and 2 singles 
through bolted to the deck [with a rubber pad between them] on the forward end. 
 When the wind gets up some of the crew has challenges adjusting the leech.  Am 
thinking this would be a good place to add some purchase.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 10:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lewmar Ocean 1 adjustable genoa car pics

 

Bruce,

 

What specifically were you looking for?  I may have already answered the thread 
or overlooked it but I have the adjustable sheet leads in a 4:1 purchase.  
Here's a picture:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yWGt0Z200N2h4Y0FpUVFVeGt4MXF1U1pvTUtr/view?usp=drivesdk

 

Let me know if you need more info. 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Nexus Race > Nexus Instruments ?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Not to hijack Pete’s post, but does anyone know of a source for old Nexus 
instruments?  Either Nexus Classic or NX2?  

 

Both of my old Multi Classic displays are getting hard to read due to crazing 
in the plexi [they both have suffered through contact with errant winch 
handles] trapped moisture, and the buttons tend to stick when pressed.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 10:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race

 

Fair enough.

 

Anyone know of applications/tools that calculate Target Boat Speed/Angle from 
polars and broadcasts values over N2K?  And low cost? 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 2:46 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race

 

Nope.  I have Nexus Classic instruments with a NMEA 0183 multiplexer with USB 
port.  Not sure I have a PC with an old enough version of Windows.

 

Thinking there are other programs out there that have same or better 
functionality.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandevile, LA

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Re: Stus-List Nexus Race > Nexus Instruments ?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.  I was hoping I could plug and play a new [old] Multi into my 
system but it is looking like that is not feasible.  I may need to drag my boat 
out of the 1990’s "0183” electronics  world…  at least partially with some new 
displays and the GND 10.  Staying with the 43 mm transducers would save 
drilling larger holes in the hull…  Will have to spend some time reading / 
researching.  

 

Has anyone installed / used the new Garmin instruments – particularly the GNX 
20 Marine instrument?It appears this system does not require a “server” 
like the old system did, so would guess GPS data is input directly.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 9:24 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race > Nexus Instruments ?

 

Last one I got I bought off eBay.  There are no commercial sources for the 
Nexus Classic multicontrols.

 

The 43 mm transducers are readily available.

 

Garmin sells some upgrades (GNX 20) but you need to really check compatibility. 
 

 

http://www.nexusmarine.se/support/historic-products/repairable-products/

 

By the time you buy a couple of new displays, you've spent as much as a new 
system.

 

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/598224#box

 

The above doesn't include a server and may not be backwards compatible.

 

Might as well just go all new:  https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/602308

 

Be advised the new comes with 52 mm transducers.  The classic system uses 43 mm 
transducers.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

 

On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 8:06 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Not to hijack Pete’s post, but does anyone know of a source for old Nexus 
instruments?  Either Nexus Classic or NX2?  

 

Both of my old Multi Classic displays are getting hard to read due to crazing 
in the plexi [they both have suffered through contact with errant winch 
handles] trapped moisture, and the buttons tend to stick when pressed.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of pete.shelquist--- via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018 10:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net <mailto:pete.shelqu...@comcast.net> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race

 

Fair enough.

 

Anyone know of applications/tools that calculate Target Boat Speed/Angle from 
polars and broadcasts values over N2K?  And low cost? 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 2:46 PM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race

 

Nope.  I have Nexus Classic instruments with a NMEA 0183 multiplexer with USB 
port.  Not sure I have a PC with an old enough version of Windows.

 

Thinking there are other programs out there that have same or better 
functionality.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandevile, LA


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Re: Stus-List Nexus Race > Nexus Instruments ?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks Matt.  Will give him a call, though am not holding my breath on the old 
Nexus instruments.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race > Nexus Instruments ?

 

Dick Booth

GARMIN and NEXUS by GARMIN

Sales . Installation   Calibration   Parts   Service

Captain/Bilge Boy  .. Tartan 4100 "Addiction"

11140 9th St EastTreasure Island, FL 33706

voice 727.363.6488… ………fax 727.363.4778

 

From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 9:06 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Nauset Beach <mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net>  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Nexus Race > Nexus Instruments ?

 

Not to hijack Pete’s post, but does anyone know of a source for old Nexus 
instruments?  Either Nexus Classic or NX2?  

 

Both of my old Multi Classic displays are getting hard to read due to crazing 
in the plexi [they both have suffered through contact with errant winch 
handles] trapped moisture, and the buttons tend to stick when pressed.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves > Halyard Knots

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

This is an interesting and very timely thread.  I need to replace a genoa 
halyard and assumed an eye splice would be needed.  Had never contemplated a 
knot on anything larger than a 10’ dinghy.  What type of line are people using 
that are tying any of these knots?  Some line is considerably stiffer than 
others due to the materials used and line construction.  NER Stay Set or Samson 
XLS is probably fairly easy to tie one of these knots.  Has anyone tied one of 
these knots using NER V-100 or Yale Crystalyne?  

 

Also are these knots being used mostly when cruising so the halyard goes on the 
furling genoa at the beginning of the season and does not really come down 
until the end of the season, or are they used in W/L racing where the genoa 
goes up and down 3 or more times in a race with 3 races a day?  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2018 11:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C&C 37+

 

I didn't spend much time comparing resources and references so take it for what 
it's worth but the website below did some tests and found the bowline reduced 
strength by ~60% where as the double fish knot broke at ~75%.  I'm not sure 
exactly what a double fish knot is compared to any of the other knots.  
Interestingly I was always taught that climers and confined space rescuer use a 
figue eight (reweave or on a bite) instead of a bowline because of its retained 
strength.  It's a interesting read at least.

 

http://caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope-hold.html

 

Josh

On Thu, Feb 1, 2018, 10:49 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I couldn’t help but chuckle because I’ve been tying the Halyard Hitch, Jeanneau 
Variant since I was about 12.. Except what I’ve always used it for is to tie 
the monofilament leader onto a fly when fly casting. The knot (bend actually) 
that I learned takes two passes through the eye of the hook and then is tied 
like the Jeanneau bend. And when I learned it from my Grandfather it was called 
a fisherman’s bend.

And, BTW, one of the reasons the bowline is the most basic knot taught in the 
US Power Squadron and CG Auxilliary basic seamanship classes is – according to 
the course material – that it retains around 90% of the strength of the line 
you are using and is the highest among the common knots and bends.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC 

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Stus-List Kidde Fire Extinguisher Recall

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I do not recall if this was mentioned on the list before or not, but read in
the Boat US magazine last night that Kidde has recalled over 40 million fire
extinguishers with plastic handles or plastic push buttons manufactured
between January, 1973 and August, 2017.  According to the US Consumer
Product Safety Commission the extinguishers can become clogged and fail to
operate, and the nozzle cap can become detached.  

 

Apparently free replacements with metal handles can be requested. 

 

More information on the recall can be found at:
https://inmarmarketaction.com/kidde/  which has links to separate pages for
the US and Canada.  

 

Brian

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

To say this thread has been enlightening is a bit of an understatement.  I just 
renewed my ins. 3 months ago so am not in the market until later this year – 
seriously doubt would get a return of premium at this point.  

 

When I was originally looking for boat insurance one of the prime 
considerations was how the company handled claims; the phrase “you get what you 
pay for” was mentioned more than once.  Does anyone have actual claim 
experience with any of these companies which are quoting substantially lower 
premiums than Boat US?  That would include a claim with Geico now that they 
have taken over the Boat US business?  I had a claim 6-7 years ago with the 
predecessor to Geico and the process was very smooth and fair.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2018 3:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance

 

Yes.  2017 BoatUS premium (now GEICO) for $1040; GEICO online quote for 
substantially the same policy $523.  I spoke with a GEICO rep about this today, 
and she is discussing the matter with her supervisor and an underwriter, and 
said she would get back to me today.  Also, my years of experience did not 
match between my online quote app (which reflected more years) and my policy, 
so I wonder if that type of information remains static in their system based on 
the original application.

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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses > Diesel Fill Hose

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Is there a method to test the condition of a diesel fill hose?  Something 
similar to wrapping a warm wet rag around an old sanitation hose?  As diesel is 
not as volatile as gas would  guess hoses carrying diesel would last longer… ?? 
 And it is not like the fuel was sitting in the hose as the route from deck 
fill to tank is nearly vertical.  

 

AFAIK - The diesel fill hose on my boat is original.  The exterior “looks” old 
but there are no cracks or any surface damage visible.  I have to replace the 
deck fill fitting this spring, but would rather not play with the fill hose to 
the tank if I do not have to.  Its path behind cabinetry makes it a royal PITA 
to access, and appears to require taking too much of the cabinetry apart.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:42 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses

 

Hear!  Hear!  High on my list!  In the 1st 4 months I had Touche' I replaced 
all the thru hull hoses, the alcohol stove hose, and all the engine hoses.  The 
two I didn't think about were the fuel fill hose and shaft log hose.  I was 
painfully reminded of the former after filling the tank one day and smelling 
gasoline throughout the boat.  The inner and outer layers of the old hose had 
separated allowing gasoline to find its way between the layers.  The vapors 
seeped out of the outer layer.  Replaced it promptly.  

 

I replaced the shaft log hose during the diesel re-power process a couple years 
later.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

 

BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing box 
hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5 worth of 
old rubber hose to hold the water out? Crazy Legs has 3 sink drains, 2 sea 
water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old rubber poo hose and 
fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber hose somewhere! Check 
yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the hoses and I wasn’t 
comfortable leaving it that way. 

 

Len Mitchell 

SV Crazy Legs

1989 37 +

Midland On

 

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Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

John,

 

If you have strong diesel smells in your cabin, especially when you open up the 
boat after a few days and go below, you probably have a leak(s) somewhere in 
your fuel system.  Check everything from the fill hose, around the engine to 
the return hose.  When I first bought my boat there was a strong diesel smell 
and I discovered the bottom of the fuel tank had some severe corrosion with 
tiny pin holes and the wood nearby was saturated.  Also found a very rusty 
steel putty knife / blade wedged under the tank that seemed to set up the 
corrosion – dissimilar metals and all…   

 

While good ventilation is key to resolving a host of issues as others have 
mentioned, in this case you may be treating a symptom and not the cause.  Same 
can be said for strong head smells: find the source [usually old hoses] and 
resolve that; the air will be much clearer.  

 

Good luck

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2018 9:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.

 

I actually Have 2 of these on board 😊   but did not run them thru winter on the 
hard My bad !  definitely should have 

It’s the diesel small I want out so thinking solar hatch vent will work ! 

 

John Conklin

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Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I have to do the same thing, again.  Used Lifecaulk in August, 2015 and noticed 
last month one chainplate was damp, and the boat is still under its winter 
cover.  

 

The Maine Sail tape seems to be the favorite bedding material of the list.  
What is the “life expectancy” of a chainplate seal using this material in the 
wild?  For bedding hardware he shows examples of 29 years, but the rigging / 
chainplate / deck interface does move [plus temperature variations from summer 
to winter plus differing expansion properties] so would guess it would take 
more frequent maintenance. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 9:02 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

 

I just re-bedded Touche's chain plates with Bed-It butyl tape.  

 

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Can someone with a 35 mkI or II let me know the sealant used at the deck when 
rebedding a chainplate.  4000? 

 

Your assistance is much appreciated.  


  _  


 


Glen Eddie


Tel: 416-777-5357


Fax: 1-888-812-2557


ged...@torkinmanes.com  


VCard  


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
  torkinmanes.com

An international member of Ally Law

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you. 


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Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

All, 

 

Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean out
the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage
which was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was removed,
but had a 2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to “crud” blocking the
pickup.  The Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but was completely
clear the 2nd time, and the engine started right up after being off for 12
hours.  Do not think fuel polishing alone would be sufficient.  The tank is
20 yo.  

 

I know tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some
steam cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to
introduce water into the tank – do not have sufficient time to drain and dry
the tank adequately prior to launch.  Nor the ability to readily do that.  

 

Have read people used clean diesel as a “solvent” to clean the interior but
am wondering if that would really be sufficient.  Have also read of using
MEK to break down / dissolve deposits in the tank.  At this point there is
about 5 gal of diesel in a 20 gal tank, a portion of which could be used to
slosh around /agitate within the tank, but again am unsure if diesel alone
would be sufficient.  

 

Any suggestions on how to “quickly and easily” clean a diesel tank?  

 

There is a 4” inspection port, but it is screwed in place with self-tapping
screws [per the manufacturer] which use a drive shape I am not familiar with
– a square with small lines radiating out from each corner – sort of a cross
between a Robertson and a Phillips.  So am hesitant to remove that plate as
a) do not want to strip / round out the screw heads, and b) do not know what
type of sealant to use to close it up upon conclusion.  Was thinking I could
use the pickup  or return openings to remove most of the fuel with a manual
extraction pump [same as I use for oil changes], and possibly the 1 ½” fill
fitting as a way to drain out most if not all of any crud / water that may
be in the tank.  I can remove the tank from the boat fairly easily so can
flip it over to drain out through the fill fitting.  Would also check for a
screen on the pickup.  

 

Thanks

Brian

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe and Bruce.  

 

Bought some of the Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner and finally had a 
chance to get to the boat yesterday.  Was able to remove the self tapping 
screws with a square drive [Robertson?] bit fairly easily.  Surprisingly the 
interior of the tank appeared clean though in the remaining fuel there were 
some cloudy “blobs” floating and some other sediment at the bottom, as well as 
some hard bits.  Used the manual pump to remove some of the cloudy / sediment 
but to get it all would have required removing all of the fuel and the Star 
Tron cleaner needs the fuel to work over a minimum of 24 hours.  Will see what 
it has done later today.  May end up removing all the fuel to wipe out remain 
sediment, etc. though would prefer not to.   

 

The hard bits at the bottom of the tank appear to have come from the cork 
gasket on the underside of the inspection plate cover.  The exposed edge [to 
the tank interior] of the cork had hardened, probably from contact with fuel 
over the years, and broke off fairly easily.  Tried to clean off any remaining 
hard edges of the cork gasket and will see if I can pump out the larger pieces. 
 

 

The Racor has some crud in the sight glass which I will drain out but am 
thinking will stay with the same 10 micron filter for a few hours [the filter 
was new mid August, looked clean at the end of Sept, and the engine ran without 
issue for 10 hrs after that before being winterized] and see how much more crud 
collects after running the engine for 10 hours or so this spring and then 
change it.  The Star Tron instruction say to expect to change the filters 
several times.  

 

The tank manufacturer said they used “Never seize” on the threaded pickup and 
return fittings and it appears the self tapping screws also had that.  Any 
recommendations for what type of Never Seize?  There appear to be many 
varieties with various metallic additives.  It is an aluminum tank and do not 
want to create a new problem with the wrong thing.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2018 12:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

 

I had some luck with diesel fuel tank cleaner made by starbrite.  I would also 
run a small 12v pump on the far side of the racor, recirculating the fuel back 
to the tank.  I found a pretty cheap one online.  Of course, the larger/faster 
the pump, the more stuff it *may* suck up off the bottom.  

 

When I say I had some success, it is only because it is hard to quantify.  Our 
new to us boat had been on the dock for a long time (less than about 50 hours 
over a 6 year period).  We we picking up small granular crud in the bottom of 
the filter bowl.  After recirculating the fuel for 10 hours total time  after 
adding the cleaner, it seemed to stop collecting crud.  We then motored a total 
of 24 hours with no engine issues.  A year later with about 75 new hours on the 
engine I picked up a slight rough running just above idle.  I swapped out the 
filter and it was back to running fine.  We have shaken up the tank a few times 
as well.

 

That said, I say some success as I have no way of saying just how much crud was 
in my tank to begin with.  The reviewson the Starbrite product are very high, 
however.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 37/40+

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 4/23/18 12:23 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Nauset Beach mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> 
> 

Subject: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning 

All, 

Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean out 
the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several 
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage which 
was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was removed, but had a 
2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to “crud” blocking the pickup.  The 
Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but was completely clear the 2nd 
time, and the engine started right up after being off for 12 hours.  Do not 
think fuel polishing alone would be sufficient.  The tank is 20 yo.  

I know tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some 
steam cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to 
introduce water into the tank – do not have sufficient time to drain and dry 
the tank adequately prior to launch.  Nor the ability to readily do that.  

Have read people used clean diesel as a “solvent” to clean the interior but am 
wondering if that would really be sufficient.  Have also read of using MEK to 
break down / dissolve deposits in the tank.  At this point there is about 5 gal 
of diesel in a 

Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the
tank - though did not really need to do so.  Now presumably there is some
air in the fuel hose.  

 

Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of
the engine?  Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6
months] and hopefully pull the air "bubble" to the fuel filter / engine?
There is ~ 6' of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4' of fuel
hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite a bit
of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw.
Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of
the engine.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Josh, nice videos.  The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this 
process.  May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under 
time pressure to get the boat launched…   Am still on the hard over an hour’s 
drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time.  

 

Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times?  Unlike the 
Yanmar copper washers…   Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that 
work in the Yanmar fuel system?  Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers 
when replacing the fuel filter housing.  A “professional” mechanic had over 
tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads.  

 

Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this 
would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed. 
 Do not want to cause more problems:  

 

“If your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage 
the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine 
stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel 
through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to 
start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure 
injector lines and starting will be a problem.”  

 

May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually…  

 

Any other suggestions? 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2018 8:26 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

 

I have found that the 3HM35F (almost the same engine) primes very easily.  I 
make more than problems by opening the official bleed screws.  They will 
perpetually leak.  In fact, I JB welded the screw on the engine filter and the 
HP pump in place.  I have replaced the associated banjo fitting copper washers 
with seal washers.  Yanmar makes some which I can provide the part numbers for 
or you can use seal washers from McMaster-Carr.  This was a huge upgrade that 
completely eliminated fuel and air leaks.

 

I have also installed a priming bulb in the fuel supply line which helps prime 
the entire system including the racor.  When I prime the system I prime the 
racor and then I only loosen the fuel banjo fitting into the engine filter.  
Once it is clear I loosen the banjo at the HP pump.  2 points and that's it.  
With copper washers you need to replace them but with seal washers they are 
reusable.

 

https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8

 

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Fri, May 4, 2018, 6:06 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the tank 
– though did not really need to do so.  Now presumably there is some air in the 
fuel hose.  

 

Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump on the side of the 
engine?  Or can I try to start the engine [it has been winterized for 6 months] 
and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter / engine?  There is ~ 6’ 
of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’ of fuel hose to reach 
the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite a bit of fuel that is 
pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw.  Hoping to minimize the 
time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the engine.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Hi Russ, 

 

There is an unknown number of inches of air now “trapped” in the system but 
would estimate at least 12” if not more based on the height of the fuel level 
in the tank [and therefore within the pickup tube] plus the fitting on top of 
the tank and whatever length of hose fuel dribbled out of when I disconnected 
the hose from the pickup fitting.  Then there is 9-10 feet of fuel in the hose 
to reach the fuel pump on the engine.  

 

To my knowledge, the engine is not self bleeding.  If it were then just running 
the engine should solve the issue.  Can anyone confirm if that would work? I 
could try to start the engine and let it run on that 9-10’ of fuel but assumed 
once that air bubble reached the engine it would stall out.  Am on land so 
cannot run the engine with a load.  

 

In previous years I have bled the system at the secondary filter and the HP 
pump using the finger lever on the fuel pump, but never needed to bleed the 
injectors.  Reading online seems to indicate that is a 2 person job with one 
pressing the starter button to turn over the engine while the other monitors 
each injector and closes the bleed screw when solid fuel comes out.  Am working 
solo on this and am not sure I could turn the crankshaft by hand with the 
compression valves open, if that would work.  

 

Using the manual pump and cracking open the bleed screw on the secondary fuel 
filter should work, it just will take a while and push that 9-10’ of fuel in 
the hose out onto oil absorb pads and of course all over the side of the 
engine.  Was hoping there was a better [cleaner and faster] way.  

 

Have read about annealing the copper washers [probably on this list years ago] 
but figured Mr Murphy would stop by with his impeccable timing if I tried to do 
that…

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2018 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F

 


Hi Brian,

>From your description posted a while ago, you do not have a system full of 
>air. Nor do you have a filter full of air. You have at most a few inches of 
>air in the tank pick-up & hose rune. Is this still the case?

Isn't this Yanmar a self-bleeding version once it's running?

BTW, copper washers as easily annealed using a propane torch. Google for the 
method. Then they are reusable.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:22 AM 5/6/2018, you wrote:



Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_0003_01D3E52C.7D8F9580"
Content-Language: en-us

Josh, nice videos.  The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this 
process.  May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under 
time pressure to get the boat launched…Â  Â Am still on the hard over an 
hour’s drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time.  
 
Can the seal washers from McMaster be tightened multiple times?  Unlike the 
Yanmar copper washers…Â Â  Do you have specific seal washers at McMaster that 
work in the Yanmar fuel system?  Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers 
when replacing the fuel filter housing.  A “professional” mechanic had 
over tightened the supply banjo bolt stripping the threads.  
 
Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes sense; not sure if this 
would force the air past / through the injectors leave the system fully primed. 
 Do not want to cause more problems:  
 
“If your fuel system is now filled with air, I would try the following. 
Engage the decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the 
engine stop, and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will 
pull fuel through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just 
try to start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high 
pressure injector lines and starting will be a problem.”  
 
May just go the route Edd suggested and do it manually…Â  
 
Any other suggestions? 
 
Thanks,
Brian
 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Bruce,  

 

Cannot help with Cajun as never used their lines.  

 

Annapolis Performance Sailing has an informative website which might be helpful 
to compare various rope types by application, materials and construction.  

 

http://www.apsltd.com/line/sailboat-halyard-line-rope.html 

 

Might be worth a look to find trade offs between stretch, weight, hand, and of 
course $$.  If you have self tailing winches, be sure you do not downsize line 
diameter too much that the self tailer jaws no longer hold the line.  Did that 
on 1 halyard and it is a PITA to hoist a sail.  

 

APS does have a rigging sale in January which is when I try to replace any worn 
line.  Others have mention West Marine having a 1 day line sale every once in a 
while, typically 40% off  - but the last one I saw was before WM started their 
price matching program so they may not have any more of those 1 day sales…

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

I know a number of folks have recommended Cajun Ropes, but I don't know their 
line manufacturer/specs.

 

What are folks thoughts about them?

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

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Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Martec non-geared props have issues with both blades opening especially if they 
get worn at the pin in each blade.  Sounds like that might be the issue.  Was 
on a J/35 in the late ‘80’s that had that issue and the whole boat would shake. 
 The owner and his son had a routine they went through to coax both blades to 
open; IIRC they went to neutral, then reverse with some throttle, then 
relatively quickly went into forward.  Might guess that put some additional 
wear on the cones in the transmission, but it seemed to work.  

 

Martec will recondition the props, but that obviously means pulling the prop 
and sending it to them…  

 

Many of us who had Martec’s have changed to Flex-O-Fold geared props to 
eliminate the potential to vibrate due to a blade not opening and for much 
improved reverse.  Have my old Martec if anyone wants it: RH  16 x 14 for a 1” 
shaft…  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

 

Pretty sure it's a martec, folding 2-blade. I try to power up and it vibrates 
like crazy. I power down to try and get it to reset so that I don't damage 
anything with it vibrating so bad. Then I try again. If I rotate the shaft 
manually I can hear each blade folding open but for some reason it is tough to 
open it after sailing for a bit. 

 

Coming out of the slip it opens without a problem.

 

The sounds came this time though while already under power and the prop was 
open. 

On Sun, May 27, 2018, 10:27 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I’m curious. What kind of prop do you have that requires you to slow down to 
get it to open. Most folding ones ask for more speed to get the blades to open. 
Non opening would produce lots of vibration, which would get lots of noise as 
the engine bounces around on (particularly) old motor mounts. Shake the motor.

 

Gary

Flex-o-fold geared

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Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H > Exhaust Elbow Cleaning

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Rick &/or anyone else,

 

Is there a recommended “service interval” for checking / cleaning the exhaust 
elbow on a fresh water cooled 3GM30F?  Mine was last checked 3-4 years ago and 
have probably had 100+ hours operation during that period.  It is a real PITA 
to access / remove / reinstall that elbow.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H

 

Bill;

 

A “raw” water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
lake water) through the engine for cooling. A “fresh” water cooled engine has 
antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine.

 

Josh’s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
your engine is spot on.

 

A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the 
thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be 
around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will 
block the cooling passages.

 

A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature – diesels are more efficient 
at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get 
to 180-190 under load.

 

One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is 
increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I 
was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus 
among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder 
marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours 
– at least yearly – as preventative maintenance. 

 

On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

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Re: Stus-List Best way to clean Ram-mic connector pins?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Mike,

 

I had a similar situation with the power plug on the back of my handheld GPS 
unit.  I applied a small amount of white vinegar with a q-tip / cotton swab and 
gently rubbed on the corrosion with several wood toothpicks to remove most of 
the green.  Then rinsed with distilled water using another q-tip and dried it 
well.  Seems to have worked.  

 

Dennis’ proactive / preventative approach is much better, as usual…  Something 
about an ounce of prevention….  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Best way to clean Ram-mic connector pins?

 

Persistence has a Standard Horizon GX2150 VHF with a cockpit mounted Ram mic.   
The connection is becoming intermittent and I have noticed oxidization in the 
boat side socket.  

 

What is the best way to clean the oxidization from these pins?  I think the 
pins are copper and the oxidization is green and likely the source of my poor 
connection.

 

I wish to clean but not damage the plastic housing or short the connectors when 
the ram mic is plugged in.

 

Am assuming the brain trust has dealt with this many times before

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion Steering

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

A very timely thread…  I am beginning to look at boats for a possible change 
and wondered about what effect either a linear or a hydraulic below deck AP 
would have on the feel of a boat.  Having tiller steering now, any change to a 
wheel would be “different” – but had some concern having a below deck AP would 
make the boat feel sluggish.  Good to hear people notice little if any change 
in the helm.  

 

What is the typical change over point in terms of displacement from a linear 
mechanical to hydraulic system?  

 

One boat which caught my eye has rack and pinion steering, I assume from Edson. 
 Any sense of the pros / cons of that vs the chain and wire system?  Would 
think the “direct drive” nature of it would provide near 100% feel of the helm 
vs the chain and wire, but maybe not.  Is the maintenance simpler with rack and 
pinion?  Clean and lube the gears [like a winch] and you are done vs. all the 
discussion on replacing / aligning idler pulleys / plates, meat hooks on the 
wire, etc.  

 

Thanks,

Brian 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot

 

Just for the sake of clarification, the Raymarine type 1 linear actuator below 
deck auto pilot , which should be suitable for a boat your size is mechanical 
not hydraulic.  The type 2 hydraulic system is far more expensive and would be 
found on a bigger boat.  I’ve steered with both and found either to be 
reasonably free of additional friction.  

On a safety standpoint, below deck systems also serve as complete emergency 
steering systems, independent of the cables, pedestal and drive wheel.  A big 
plus!

Chuck Gilchrest 

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall 

Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 9, 2018, at 8:42 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Charlie — there’s a big difference between a full hydraulic steering system 
(like on the Whitby) and a hydraulic pilot ram.  You should feel no extra 
resistance with either an electric or hydraulic ram; the steering system will 
not change in feel from what you’re used to.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI





On Jul 8, 2018, at 7:15 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am considering a below 
deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is reasonable since most of my Raymarine 
stuff will be used by the hydraulic unit. 

 

My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the pilot is 
disengaged. With the wheel pilot, there was little difference. 

 

I have steered a boat with hydraulic steering once (a Whitby 42) whose entire 
steering (auto or not) was hydraulic. The response of

that system was so bad I swore I would never have anything to do with another 
hydraulic unit. 

 

Of course, when not engaged I understand that the pilot would not be steering 
the boat--OTOH, it is still connected in some manner.

 

Since I mostly PHRF race the boat, I need to have the wheel/rudder move without 
additional resistance from the auto-pilot. 

 

Is this something I should be concerned about or is the wheel 'free' when the 
auto-pilot is not engaged?

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion Steering

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

To my knowledge when driving on OPB with wheel steering it has only been cable 
– was not aware rack and pinion was even an option, hence my question.  
Hydraulic seems the antithesis of the fun of sailing…   

 

Not an Island Packet – they look to be very comfortable boats but a little too 
far into the cruising end of the spectrum for me.  Good to hear the feel is 
similar to the cable steering.  If I ever go for a test sail on that boat will 
report my observations.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 11:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion 
Steering

 

Cable is better than rack and pinion for steering feel IMHO. The hydraulic 
steering boats I have sailed had rudder angel indicators because otherwise you 
have no idea what is going on. The owners said they didn’t care about feel 
because they hardly ever steered by hand out of the harbor.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion 
Steering

 

Let me guess — Island Packet?

 

I’ve heard that the rack-and-pinion has a pretty direct feel, similar to a 
cable-based steering system like most of us have.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:15 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

A very timely thread…  I am beginning to look at boats for a possible change 
and wondered about what effect either a linear or a hydraulic below deck AP 
would have on the feel of a boat.  Having tiller steering now, any change to a 
wheel would be “different” – but had some concern having a below deck AP would 
make the boat feel sluggish.  Good to hear people notice little if any change 
in the helm.  

 

What is the typical change over point in terms of displacement from a linear 
mechanical to hydraulic system?  

 

One boat which caught my eye has rack and pinion steering, I assume from Edson. 
 Any sense of the pros / cons of that vs the chain and wire system?  Would 
think the “direct drive” nature of it would provide near 100% feel of the helm 
vs the chain and wire, but maybe not.  Is the maintenance simpler with rack and 
pinion?  Clean and lube the gears [like a winch] and you are done vs. all the 
discussion on replacing / aligning idler pulleys / plates, meat hooks on the 
wire, etc.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

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Stus-List Cruising Destinations in Narraganset Bay

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

We are planning a cruise to Narraganset Bay next month and are interested in
any suggestions / tips / things to see on land, places to provision, etc. on
various harbors / anchorages.  It has been years since we have spent any
time there, though frequently stop over at Sachuest  on the Sekonnet when
passing by traveling east or west.  We prefer to anchor or grab a mooring
vs. tying up at a dock.  Our preliminary itinerary is to make a circle
around the bay:  

 

Dutch Island - probably a mooring at Dutch I Marina

 

Potter's Cove - is there a place to anchor or is it all moorings, are any
moorings open and available?

 

Bristol YC - plan to go to the Herreschoff and AC museum as has been redone
since we were there last, possibly the Blithewold Estate.  Is Linden Place
museum worth a visit?  

 

A couple nights going down the Sekonnet 

 

Any suggestions about any of these locations or others is appreciated.  Am
not planning on going to Newport as it is just too crowded.  Wickford has
been recommended as a great village to visit but the only time have been
there was tied up at a marina on a very hot and humid August day [not the
best memory] and did not see any moorings or a place to really anchor.
Battleship Cove is a possible though not sure the Admiral really wants to
visit the Massachusetts, and I am not sure I want to spend the night there,
if one can.   

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Removing old stickers

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

A couple of suggestions made on another sailing list:  

 

Use 600 wet sandpaper with a sponge block to carefully remove old lettering.  
Then 800 wet sandpaper & compound with a polisher to restore the finish.

 

Or:

 

Easy Off Oven cleaner was used to remove painted name and hailing port from our 
transom. There was a shadow remaining from 'sun bleach' vs shaded that has 
since been decreased with subsequent surface polishing.

 

Have not tried either.  My boat had vinyl lettering on both quarters and the 
transom when I bought her and I removed it all with a hair drier and a plastic 
putty knife.  

 

Good luck.

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing old stickers

 

I just bought some stuff called Vinyl-Off, worked good on my buddies old decal 
hailing port.

http://www.crystaltek.us.com/crystaltek-vinyl-off.htm

 

Didn’t work so good for me, after a lot of frustrating  work between my 
daughter and I, I discovered it was paint on Awlgrip.

Does anyone know an easy way to remove paint from Awlgrip?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

Have no experience with this “yet” but have a similar bottom situation.  This 
past spring I asked the yard manager about it and he estimated if he [the yard] 
were to do all of work [subcontracting the soda blasting] and supplies the full 
job would be ~ $7,000.  He said the soda blasting frequently leaves pitting in 
the gelcoat which then needs to be filled / sanded / filled and faired / 
sanded, barrier coats and finally 2-3 coats of bottom paint.  He is pretty 
relaxed about DIY and said that $$$ amount could be reduced depending on how 
much of the labor I want to do, and if I supply the barrier coat and bottom 
paint materials.  I am NOT going to sand off the bottom paint myself; using a 
random orbital sander this spring managed to get too much paint dust / 
particles in my eyes, even with goggles.  

 

Find it difficult to rationalize investing that much in a 30 yo boat I have 
owned for 20 years, especially if there is a possibility there might be a 
“next” boat in the future…  

 

I like Danny’s $1k and good finish on the bottom much better…Danny:  Which 
yard in Mattapoisett did you use?  And what time of year was the work done?  
Would guess there are seasonal variations in the rate schedule.  Thanks. 

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2018 9:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Soda blasting bottoms

 

I need to have several/many coats of bottom paint removed (its starting to 
seriously flake off) and am considering soda blasting as both faster and 
possibly cheaper than the 60 hours of labor that the 

yard estimates it would take to sand it off.(~$5000!).

 

Opinions and experiences of the list are welcome before I proceed with it (or 
stay with the sanding method).

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

 

cenel...@aol.com  

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Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank - the
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking
and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a
couple of questions about installing it:  

 

The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the ends of 2
stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.
This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or less in place, which wore
on the two end points of the stringers, and that is where corrosion
developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone (Rick Brass (?) who
is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) recommended glassing
in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity for moisture to
collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.
Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?  

 

The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.
How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that
looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come
with this from Defender: 

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down
-kit

&path=-1|311|2349059|2349070&id=4201879  

 

And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an
acceptable way to restrain the tank?  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Doug, Rick, Gary,

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Am going to the boat today to begin the install
and see if I can figure out a way to better brace the tank to reduce if not
eliminate any movement.  

 

Thanks, 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 1:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

I went with a plastic tank and the original straps (shortened a bit). There
are small 1x1 'fences' around the tank on the platform and I shielded the
tank from the straps with some rubber strips.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Rick Brass via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

The tank in my 38 had similar pitting and a small leak. It was sitting on a
plywood platform aft of the engine and transmission (and pretty much over
the stuffing box).

 

When I replaced the tank, I put (5)  4"x4"x1/4" pads made from neoprene seal
bought at my local  Lowes. The tank is held in place by two wooden battens
over the top of the tank in an athwartship orientation. The battens are held
down by stainless rods attached to the support platform with washers and
wing nuts on top of the battens to tension the tank down on the rubber pads.

 

I suspect the idea of battens glassed in under that tank would work - after
all the idea is to allow air circulation so you don't get corrosion - so
long as you can keep the tank from shifting around as the boat moves.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset
Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Nauset Beach mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank - the
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking
and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a
couple of questions about installing it:  

 

The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the ends of 2
stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.
This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or less in place, which wore
on the two end points of the stringers, and that is where corrosion
developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone (Rick Brass (?) who
is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) recommended glassing
in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity for moisture to
collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.
Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?  

 

The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.
How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that
looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come
with this from Defender: 

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down
-kit
<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-dow
n-kit&path=-1|311|2349059|2349070&id=4201879>
&path=-1|311|2349059|2349070&id=4201879  

 

And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an
acceptable way to restrain the tank?  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Who knew tracking down Yanmar coolant would be so difficult?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I had to replace my water heater in August days before a planned 2 week cruise 
and as part of that had to replace the coolant.  I went through a similar 
though much more  abbreviated search for what to use, even buying the Yanmar 
coolant at over $35 / gal, but settled on the Prestone Extended Life from 
Autozone at about half the price as that was what was in the engine previously 
and I did not have time to flush the system fully prior to refilling.  The 
Prestone “says” it is compatible with any other type of coolant, but that may 
be more the marketing department than the tech side of the business.  

 

FWIW:  Subsequently, I traded a couple of emails with the mechanic who had put 
the Prestone in there in the first place and he said they have found gelling 
and other issues with the dex coolants in Yanmar engines, quote “I have so many 
bad head gaskets from the dex-cool orange that I change it when we can”  

 

Have no idea about the desirability of nitrites for Yanmar…

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 3:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Who knew tracking down Yanmar coolant would be so 
difficult?

 

Then, of course, I found this reference chart which clarifies quite a bit, but 
then opens up the question as to whether Nitrites would be required for a 
Yanmar engine (which of course is something for which I can't find the answer): 



https://www.google.com/search?source=hp 

 
&ei=a4_HW9OxForczwK3tqmoBQ&q=o+reilly+antifreeze+reference+chart&oq=O%27reilly+antifreeze+reference+char&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.33i22i29i30.1926.16582..19287...4.0..0.103.2629.37j1..01..gws-wiz...0j0i131j0i13j0i22i30j0i13i5i30j0i8i13i30j33i160j33i299._9ZU1x7UalQ

 

This leads me to believe I'm overworrying it... :) 

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

 

  _  

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> >
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 1:35 PM
Subject: Stus-List Who knew tracking down Yanmar coolant would be so difficult?

 

Hello all,

 

As a result of a concern about tracking down a potential antifreeze leak (which 
I haven't done yet), I wanted to confirm the coolant type.  There is no mention 
as to specific types either in my 3JH2E operating or service manuals.  Yes, I 
could go (way) out of my way to get Yanmar branded coolant, but let's face it - 
it is not only way more expensive, its available almost exclusively at Yanmar 
dealers, and the nearest one to me is 15 miles away and isn't open on Saturdays 
or Sundays.  And of course, what happens if you need more when you're out 
cruising?







In doing research, I found the following bulletin, published by Mack Boring:  
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t 

 
&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=2ahUKEwizh_zu8Y3eAhWOy1MKHSFlD3cQFjADegQIBxAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fldmarineservice.com%2Ffiles%2Fyanmar_bulletins.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3WK3R6vfJyTHOt5yGzFMDZ







In the section about coolants, it recommends:





Texaco Long Life Coolant, numbers 7991 and 7998.  Unfortunately, one really 
can't find either product on the web, so I can't seem to find if it was orange 
(DEXCOOL) or red for diesels, or for that matter if it was ethylene glycol or 
propylene glycol based.







Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant, number 7994.  Per this link, 7994 
is DEX-COOL, but is ethylene glycol based.   https://www.google.com/url?sa=t 

 
&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwij_o2I843eAhWK0FMKHXc5AfMQFjAAegQICxAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rialtainfo.com%2Fvw%2Fvw_images%2Fradiator_%26_coolant.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3ZxHApMqFHHgB-qcUwOYWa
 







Dex-Cool Long Life Coolant, which at least at the time of introduction was 
propylene glycol based and is Organic Acid Technology (OAT) thus meaning less 
toxic.  Funny thing is, Dex-Cool was not even introduced until a year after my 
boat was built (1995) and at the time, was only being used in GM cars.  







Prestone Extended Li

Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in > Prop Change

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Mike,

 

Several people on the list have retired their Martec props for the very
reason you cite: very poor reverse performance.  Many have changed to 2
blade Flex-O-Fold geared props and the difference in reverse is dramatic.  

 

Take a look at a prop test article from Yachting Monthly in the UK that
Flex-O-Fold posted on their website at this link: 

 

http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf 

 

The Gori did not rank very well.  

 

I believe everyone who has switched to a Flex prop has been happy, once they
get the pitch correct.  I was initially spec'ed a 16 Diameter x 13 Pitch to
replace a 16 x 14 Martec,.  That was too much pitch and was getting severe
cavitation / vibration.  Now I have a 16 x 12 with better performance and
very little vibration.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2016 8:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

 

As Rob knows I back in all the time as my preferred method of docking.  On
the frers 33 the shaft I  centered and the prop is RH so there is some prop
walk to port in reverse but it is not pronounced.  The biggest issues are
visibility and the lack of bite of the prop when shifting from forward to
reverse.  If I am travelling at three knots forward and then shift to
reverse it takes well over 30 seconds for the boat to slow to a stop and
then start moving backward.  Meanwhile the bow will blow all over the place.
This makes coming in bow first to a slip a bit problematic if moving at any
speed since reverse really dow not put on the brakes for me.  The prop is a
Martec elliptical folding prop.  The problem with visibility is that these
older designs tend to have a very beamy boat midships and much narrower
transom.  This makes helmsman lose sight of dock edge as we get close.  On
top of that if sailing with a crew they are very hard to see through.  Like
many others here I put the boat in reverse at the end of the marina system
and then back the entire way in to my slip.  I will also be at idle and go
in and out of reverse as we get close.  I stand to the side of the wheel and
drive it just like a car which has the turning wheels on the front.  Once
the boat is in place a very short burst of fwd stops the boat.  It is simple
and very easy.  Most problems with docking are after the boat is lying right
alongside when someone pulls the bow in too soon or too late etc . but that
is minor

 

One question that I have been wondering is how much difference would a
geared prop make for initial bite in reverse.  Someone mentioned that it was
very good with a Gori but I would think that not much difference than a
Martec.

 

Mike

Persistence.  Done for the season

Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

When I spoke with Flex o Fold in April one potential source of vibration that 
was suggested [in addition to the others already mentioned in this thread] was 
how the prop hub was set on the shaft.  The fellow said some times the key 
slips forward slightly as the hub is put on the shaft and the hub then rides up 
on it, making the hub / shaft combination slightly out of balance.  I had 
originally dry fit the hub without the key and marked where it fit on the 
shaft, then put the hub on with the key.  Had thought it was correct.  

 

I did get new blades [ 12 pitch vs the 13 pitch I was originally sold] and 
re-set the original hub on the shaft making certain the hub was properly seated 
on the shaft.  The vibration was greatly reduced.  

 

Might be worth double checking the hub.  

 

Good luck,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 9:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

 

Kevin,

 

I've struggled with the same issue for three seasons.

 

When I first got the boat it have a Martek 2 blade folding prop. When motoring 
off the mooring no problem. But after sailing the prop vibrated horribly. 
Throwing it into reverse and then back into forward usually but not always 
resolved the issue. At the end of the season I sent the prop to Martek to have 
it rebuilt. I also had the transmission rebuilt and the cone gear replaced. Put 
the boat back in the water in the spring and found that the problem was still 
there. The following winter I replaced the Martek prop with a Flexofold. Lwo 
and behold the problem is still there. 

 

I made sure that the engine was in alignment and had two boat yard mechanics 
out on the boat. When heading into a 3 knot current there was no vibration but 
when we went perpendicular to the current the vibration resumed. This happened 
repeatedly. The mechanics told be that the vibration is typical for a two 
bladed folding prop. One thing that became apparrent during that test was that 
the maximum rotation I was able to get up to was 2600 RPM. The boat has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 and Kanzaki KM3-A transmission. The gear ratio is not 
stamped on the transmission but, I've been assured that the gear ratio is 
2.61:1 and have no reason to believe it's not. I purchased the prop recommended 
to me by Flexofold which is 2 blade 16x12R. When I told Flexofold about the 
issue they insisted that the prop was the correct one and I do know that other 
35 MK3s have had success with this same set up.

 

The Flexofold blades are geared to one another. So, it's impossible for one 
blade to open while the other is not. So, that can not be the problem. 

 

So, any ideas beyond what I've already done are greatly appreciated.

 

Dave J

Saltaire

C&C 35MK3

Bristol, RI

 

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Another aspect of smoother end for end gybes with sheets and guys is having the 
foredeck make certain there is plenty of slack lazy guy at the chain plates 
prior to beginning the maneuver – how much slack is determined through 
practice.  When the pole is trimmed back as the boat turns down, and then 
tripped, the spin trimmer controls the kite with both sheets and there is no 
load on the new guy.  The mast man / foredeck should be able to drop the new 
guy into the jaw and push the pole out and make it on the mast without any real 
load on the pole via the guy.  The guy trimmer only trims back the new guy 
after the call of “Made” is heard from the foredeck, and then the spin trimmer 
eases the weather spin sheet as the new guy is brought in.  

 

And of course, the helmsman has to not turn up to the new course until that 
call as well…

 

All it takes is a lot of practice to get everyone on the same page…  ;)  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2016 3:04 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

 

Think about it like this, if the center seam on the bottom panel of the chute 
is directly ahead of the boat (centered on the forestay) it is easy to move the 
chute side to side to make the pole on either side.  If the center seam has 
prematurely crossed the forestay to the leeward side then the foredeck person 
has to push the sail back to windward to make the pole.

A simple light air practice exercise is to center the main, steer the boat 
keeping the Windex CENTERED between the tabs and then have the foredeck gybe 
the chute back and forth a few times.  Put a piece of tape on the center seam 
of the bottom panel to give a visible reference to the forestay.

When racing, if the foredeck can complete the gybe and have the pole made on 
the mast while the Windex is still well between the tabs, it should go 
smoothly.  The speed of the turn is controlled by the helmsperson!  Watch the 
center seam!

 

Dennis C.

 

On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM, John McKay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys!

 

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

As someone who does the pointy end on multiple racing boats, I fully concur. 
Almost all of the FUBAR kite moments are down to the ham-fisted monkey at the 
blunt end 

Cheers,

Paul.

 

1974 27' MkII 

Sidney, BC.

 

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Re: Stus-List Cleat covers

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

APS has some that might work:  

 

http://www.apsltd.com/cleat-chocks-pair.html 

 

 

Or maybe with the strong dollar they are less $ if sourced from the UK: 

 

http://www.yachtingsolutions.co.uk/cleat-boot-cleat-cover-2-pack.ir?cName=bo
at-classes-squib-accessories 

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2016 9:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Stus-List Cleat covers

 

Has anyone had successful experience using these on a 70s vintage C&C?

 

http://www.solvingideas.com/Cleat_Info.html

 

The recent discussion about attaching sheets ( and getting them hung up on
the baby stay) reminded me about the times my sheets have gotten snagged by
the cleats on the cabin top near the mast. So I thought I would give myself
a set of cleat covers for Christmas.

 

But the cleats on Imzadi (original 8" cleats) look suspiciously like the
ones shown that are not compatible with the covers. 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Cleat covers > Spin Halyard Parking Cleat

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Chuck, 

 

Was thinking the same thing but the hole spacing of the ocean cleat may not 
work at 2 1/16” vs 1 ½” for the Har150 standard AL cleat.  The APS site does 
not provide any details and have not found the “parking cleat” on the Harken 
site.  Looks like it is sourced from another company.  

 

A call to APS is probably needed.  

 

Brian   

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 12:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur 
Subject: Stus-List Cleat covers

 

Thanks, Dennis!  Nice option...the "parking cleat" looks like something I will 
consider.  I looked up the working load rating for the Harken 150 cam cleat 
(required-and in my parts tub) and it's 300lbs.  Does anyone know the loads for 
a 35-3 halyard at the mast for the cam cleat and base mount turning blocks?  
Seems like the upgrade to a Harken offshore (500 lbs working load) might be ok? 

 

 

 

Chuck Saur

C&C 35-3 

Morning Sky

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Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates > Chainplates

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Randy,

 

When I rebed my chainplates 2 years ago – had to dig out the wet balsa and 
replace with epoxy using the chainplates wrapped in wax paper as plugs / forms 
– found the chainplates themselves were quite corroded on the back side which 
was against the bulkhead.  Several of the stainless bolts were severely rusted 
and the chainplates had tiny cracks fully through the metal at the bolt holes.  
Had new chainplates fabricated.  

 

As you are in fresh water it may not be as much of an issue, but if your boat 
lived much of its life in saltwater previously, there may be damage to the 
metal.  Make sure you closely examine the chainplates for any corrosion!  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 10:05 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates

 

Thanks Dennis (and Gary and Sam).  Let me see where I stand on Tuesday - I may 
be ready to epoxy if I can do the bent nail and acetone thing tomorrow.  Let's 
call or text on Tuesday.

 

Gary - my chainplate covers are aluminum and still in good shape, just needed a 
really good cleaning (probably 44 years' worth of various sealant jobs built up 
on their undersides).

 

Sam - yes my chainplates bolt to fiberglass "knees" tabbed to the hull.  And 
the chainplates and knees are in good shape - no sign of weakening from 
exposure to moisture.  I just want to make sure I do a proper job of sealing it 
all up so I don't get more coring in the deck going forward.  Unfortunately it 
looks like my boat's previous owners didn't do a proper job (e.g. per Don 
Casey's prescriptions) of keeping this area sealed, and a little bit of coring 
occurred.  The starboard side was all gooped up with clear silicone, and the 
port side had an ineffective bead of white caulk around the edge of the cover, 
and both sides had hard-as-rock probably original white-colored sealant under 
those other sealants.

 

I'll be using polysulfide (Life Caulk) per Don Casey for the re-bedding sealant.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: "Dennis" mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:30:09 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates

 

Randy,

 

You're on the right track.  Wish I'd known you were doing that, I would have 
stopped by and taken a peek.  I'm back up in the mountains now.

 

If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent nail, 
etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject some neat 
epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to agitate it then 
quickly suck out the epoxy.  That will coat the exposed surfaces so the 
thickened epoxy will bond better.  Then I'd inject thickened epoxy, let it cure 
and re-install the chalnplates.  Don't forget to chamfer the hole so the 
bedding plate doesn't sit down on a square edged cut.

 

I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon.  Got to pick up my ski 
buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry storage on the 
way.

 

Dennis C.

 

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Re: Stus-List whisker pole rebuild

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

I replaced the control line on my whisker pole 4 years ago though the end
fittings on my whisker pole were attached with SS bolts tapped into the AL
end fittings vs. rivets.  Once the "larger" end fitting was off I was able
to pull the sections apart sufficiently to just reach the dead end of the
line inside the tube.  Could pull some slack in the line through the pad eye
riveted inside the tube to untie the knot, attach a messenger line and pull
the old line out.  Running the new line with the messenger took a little
jiggling back and forth to get it to seat properly in the sheave at the end
of the stinger rod.  Then just put an overhand knot [aka a half hitch] as a
stopper knot and reassembled.  

 

Getting the SS bolts loose from the AL end fittings almost took longer than
replacing the control line.  

 

Good luck,

Brian

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 5:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List whisker pole rebuild

 

I finally got around to using the whisker pole on Alera last summer and
loved it.  That and the preventer fashioned from the block set from an old
boom vang on our C&C 35 Mk1 made for some very sweet and comfortable
downwind sailing, including some wing and wing with much less stress than
balancing all that cloth from the helm.

The Forespar whisker pole does not look like it was used much.  But it could
use to have the control lines inside and out replaced.  A nice simple winter
project...well maybe.  I have an idea of what I'm getting into courtesy of a
few sailor's blog posts linked below.  

Here are the blog links.

http://justalittlefurther.com/the-blue-view/the-blue-view-rigging-for-downwi
nd-sailing/ 

http://theretirementproject.blogspot.com/2016/10/rebuilding-forespar-whisker
-pole.html 

So, I thought I would check in with the brain trust here before I start
drilling out rivets.

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  


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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

This thread is timely.  Replacing the stuffing is one of my winter / spring
projects due to a surplus of water coming in last season; any tightening of
the box caused too much heat. I have put off changing the stuffing for too
long as it is near impossible to access.  I replaced the stuffing box / hose
~ 10 years ago with a Buck Algonquin stuffing box, and put in 1/4" packing.
When I ordered new packing a few months ago I bought the same 1/4".  But
this discussion of using 3/16" stuffing is interesting - maybe 3/16" would
make the job a little easier...  

I just looked at the Deep Blue Yacht Supply website [where I bought the
stuffing box] and they have 3 different Buck Algonquin stuffing boxes for 1"
shafts [for various hose sizes] and ALL of them specify 1/4" packing...
Does anyone "down size" stuffing from the manufacturers specs?  

I have been using GFO packing [it was very highly recommended on another
sailing list] but reading Main Sail's pages on graphite impregnated stuffing
is making me rethink this.  Is anyone else using GFO packing, or is Teflon
flax or other packing the way to go?  

Thanks,
Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2018 11:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box issue

> "Any one else with an early 80's 34' and a 1 inch shaft want to tell 
> what size packing they use."

Don,
I have 1984 C&C 32 with a 1" prop shafttypical stuffing boxreplaced
with 3/16"3 strandsfirst two strands went in but when I put in the
3rd strand, I couldn't not thread the nuttoo tightso I took out the
3rd strand and put the nut on and tighten it to compress the first two
strands and then put the 3rd strand back in and I could then put the nuts
together.

My point is 3 strands of 3/16th on my 1" shaft is what worked for me.

Any particular reason you used 1/4' packing and not 3/16th?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

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