Stus-List Bottom paint- Pettit Black Widow

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had my boat painted with Pettit Black Widow this spring after hearing some 
positive comments about it from members of this list.  I wanted to report back 
to others considering it that my diver says my boat has had the cleanest bottom 
in the mooring field all season.  He has dropped the cleaning frequency from 
every 2 weeks to every 3 weeks and still has very little cleaning to do even 
with that.  He is now convinced and telling other owners how good that paint is 
(in our area at least).  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT


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Stus-List Bottom paint best by date

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I am thinking of getting 2 gallons of bottom paint currently on sale at 
Defender/West Marine (Oydessy HD) that I may not need for 6 months to a year. 
Does this stuff have a shelf life or use by date? I don't want to open it a 
year from now and find it has solidified into a solid mass or otherwise. 
FWIW, in the NC sound/Neuse River brackish water environment this paint is into 
its 3rd year and still doing its job--no other paint I have tried (Pettit 
Vivid/etc. including VR(?) 21) has approached this level of longevity.
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom
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Stus-List Bottom paint gallons

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2 gallons 
isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says theoretical 
coverage is 450 ft²/gallon. 

The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.

2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
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Stus-List Bottom paint—final!

[cenelson via CnC-List]

Thanks to all who responded to my bottom paint inquiry. Between your responses, 
my diver’s thoughts and a little thought of my own, I have a plan:
1. I am sticking with a hard ablative, Petite Vivid or Odyssey? 
2. Rough up/sand the entire bottom and feather any edges where the old paint 
flaked off completely to provide a good surface for new paint.
3. Roll on 2 coats with a third coat on leading edges of keel/bow/rudder and 
centerboard.4.The diver wipes down bottom, effectively smoothing the ablative 
paint pretty well. He does this before almost every race and when in the water, 
the paint is easy to clean and smooth. (When on the hard, the paint isn’t 
‘ablating’ and would need sanding to remove the roller imprint. In the water, 
the diver does the smoothing relatively easily.) 
I think this will work well and significantly reduce the cost since a lot of 
sanding will be eliminated.
Feel free to comment on this plan. 
Also any thought on Petit’s new ablative Odssey paint? 
Thanks again,
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom




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Stus-List Bottom paint

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Do they know it works well in Oregon or do they just have a huge stock of it to 
get rid of LOL
Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: Fred Hazzard [mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 2:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Bottom paint

I am getting ready to have the bottom repainted. The yard is recommending
Petit Ultima SR 60.
Do any of you have experience or strong opinions about this paint.

Our boat is in fresh water 99 % of the time.
Other paint recommendations would be appreciated.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Stus-List Bottom paint

[Fred Hazzard]

I am getting ready to have the bottom repainted. The yard is recommending
Petit Ultima SR 60.
Do any of you have experience or strong opinions about this paint.

Our boat is in fresh water 99 % of the time.
Other paint recommendations would be appreciated.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Robert Abbott]

Alan,

I have not heard of VC17Mit could very well be the Kirby 25 had 
itthe owner was an avid racerhe was co-owner of Bruckmann Yachts 
in Mississauga, Ontario.


I was told it was VC17, no mention of M but if you knew the previous 
owner, that would be no surprise.


What was really surprising is that 10 years later when I decided to 
quite racing and sell the Kirby 25, he was the one that bought it back 
from meat $500 less the price I paid for it.


After that I bought the C 32 and became a reacher and not a racer.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 9/18/2020 12:28 PM, ALAN BERGEN wrote:
Perhaps what you thought was VC17 wasn't. I use VC17M in fresh and 
salt water with excellent results.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




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Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Robert Abbott]

Many years ago I bought a Kirby 25 which came from Toronto, Lake 
Ontario, fresh water boat which had VC17 bottom paint. I am in Halifax, 
Nova Scotia, salt water which is not compatible with VC17. I did not 
want to strip the bottom but I had to change to a salt water paintmy 
choice was Micron CSC.


Everyone, including the Interlux people, told me that Micron CSC could 
not be put over VC17it will not adhere.  I wet sanded the VC17, let 
it dry and painted Micron CSC over it.   The Micron CSC was perfect for 
the 10 years I raced the boat.it did not peel, blister, flake.


I can not explain what happened, I can only tell you it happened.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.

On 9/17/2020 10:39 PM, ALAN BERGEN wrote:
VC17 and the West Marine equivalent will stick over other paints, but 
other paints won't stick over VC17. Best way to remove VC17 is a 
stripper followed by sanding.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

I would stick with the VC 17 . It is designed to wear away and not build up . 
Most other bottom paints will build up on the bottom and eventually will need 
to be removed. I just burnish the old VC 17 with a scotch brite pad . If you 
put the paint into a mustard bottle and squirt a bit onto a foam roller . You 
can make the paint last a lot longer . 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[schiller via CnC-List]

On our Redwing 35 (C 35-1), we used Micron CSC after removing the old, 
built up chipping bottom paint (and applying barrier coat).  I used 
Micron CSC for the multi season capabilities but it seemed that every 
year I used a gallon of paint to cover wear on the leading edges of the 
keel and rudder. It held up well but we did as much or more to keep 
ahead of wear.


Our new C 35-3 came painted with VC-17.  We paint every spring using 3 
quarts of VC-17 mixed with 10% Denatured Alcohol. I much prefer the 
VC-17.  Easier to work with, can be applied in much lower temperatures.


At the end of the season, the boat washes off clean and spring prep is 
pretty easy.


We are in fresh water (Lake Michigan)

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 9/8/2020 4:30 PM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:

Everyone:

For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have 
been sanding the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no 
longer going to be racing.  It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out 
to determine what bottom paint i should go with that is less work 
every year.  Please share your thoughts and opinions.


Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
CNC33-2
MILWAUKEE, WI

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Ray,

Have you considered just doing the painting less often and sticking with the 
VC?  I know a number of people that just use a Scotchbrite pad to remove some 
of the oxidation and go 2 years or more between coats.

In fresh water, it’s what most boat owners want to use and a boat that has 
another paint is less desirable at resale time.  It’s a quirky paint to apply, 
but once you get used to it, I’m not sure other paints are that much easier.  
Just my opinion, but having a previous boat grit blasted so I could use VC made 
me really appreciate my 30-2 already having VC-17/SR-21.

Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 4:51:51 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

Most paints will not stick over VC17. You have to remove all of it first, 
before applying a new bottom paint. I think Pettit makes a bottom paint remover 
that works well to remove VC17. Then sand and apply new paint.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YCs
Portland, OR



On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 1:31 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Everyone:

For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have been sanding 
the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no longer going to be racing. 
 It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out to determine what bottom paint i 
should go with that is less work every year.  Please share your thoughts and 
opinions.

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
CNC33-2
MILWAUKEE, WI
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Most paints will not stick over VC17. You have to remove all of it first,
before applying a new bottom paint. I think Pettit makes a bottom paint
remover that works well to remove VC17. Then sand and apply new paint.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YCs
Portland, OR



On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 1:31 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Everyone:
>
> For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have been
> sanding the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no longer going
> to be racing.  It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out to determine what
> bottom paint i should go with that is less work every year.  Please share
> your thoughts and opinions.
>
> Ray Macklin
> LakeHouse
> CNC33-2
> MILWAUKEE, WI
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5UJ1ZTa0XZezroNHKACEdLxZNc1FcNxiLsHigXV83v1ZXhVN5YrePWpWdIZ9tKJq67Y$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Edd- I find your comments on Vivid interesting as my experience is 
different.  I love the color, but I am going to switch away from it next year 
after 5-6 years with it.  I can only clean it with a microfiber cloth and even 
then you can see loads of paint in the water (mine is white).  It is the 
softest paint I have ever put on the bottom.  It seems hard when first painted 
and you can sort of burnish it, but in the water it is really soft.  I have had 
to repaint major areas every season and am getting tired of it.  It works well 
as anti-fouling, but my experience (and others I have read online) is that it 
is not a hard paint as advertised.  For me it is a soft ablative.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 8, 2020, at 4:34 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ray,
> 
> I’ve been using Petit Vivid for years — It’s a great multi-season paint and 
> your bottom cleaner will love you for the brighter color choice.  It was also 
> ranked very high by Practical Sailing. 
> 
> I’m not sure what kind of work you’ll need to do, if any, to apply it to a 
> VC-17 bottom. Talk to the Petit guys about that. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

 I am on lake Champlain NY , I've had VC-17 for maybe 20 years, only do 
touch-ups  where it is needed ( always the front part of the rubber ), a single 
can last for 3-4 years.
SylvainC

On Tuesday, September 8, 2020, 4:31:05 PM EDT, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Everyone:
For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have been sanding 
the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no longer going to be racing. 
 It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out to determine what bottom paint i 
should go with that is less work every year.  Please share your thoughts and 
opinions.
Ray MacklinLakeHouseCNC33-2MILWAUKEE, 
WI___

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Ray,

I’ve been using Petit Vivid for years — It’s a great multi-season paint and 
your bottom cleaner will love you for the brighter color choice.  It was also 
ranked very high by Practical Sailing. 

I’m not sure what kind of work you’ll need to do, if any, to apply it to a 
VC-17 bottom. Talk to the Petit guys about that. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Sep 8, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Everyone:

For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have been sanding 
the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no longer going to be racing. 
 It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out to determine what bottom paint i 
should go with that is less work every year.  Please share your thoughts and 
opinions.

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
CNC33-2
MILWAUKEE, WI
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Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

Everyone:

For the past several years, at the beginning of the season, I have been
sanding the bottom and have painted it with VC-17.   I am no longer going
to be racing.  It is fresh water boat.  I am reaching out to determine what
bottom paint i should go with that is less work every year.  Please share
your thoughts and opinions.

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
CNC33-2
MILWAUKEE, WI
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint supplier

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Danny thanks, that's helpful, I will go ahead with buying the paint, now, 
anyone want to help with the bottom work..? (just kidding)! 

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: bushmark4--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 12, 2018 11:21 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint supplier



I've bought car parts from them without issue.



On 3/12/2018 11:10 AM, bushmark4--- via  CnC-List wrote:



 Hi all, I was surfing online for asupplier of bottom paint and 
found an outfit called Carid, based in NJ; they are aninternet auto 
parts supplier, but apparently dabble inmarine supplies also; does 
anyone have any experience withthis company? any info appreciated, 
thanks 


 



Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile  596;
  
  Richard N. Bush
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255
  

 



  

  

  

  

  

  



  

  

  

  

  

  
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contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If  you want 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint supplier

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I've bought car parts from them without issue.


On 3/12/2018 11:10 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
Hi all, I was surfing online for a supplier of bottom paint and found 
an outfit called Carid, based in NJ; they are an internet auto parts 
supplier, but apparently dabble in marine supplies also; does anyone 
have any experience with this company? any info appreciated, thanks


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255





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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint supplier

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Hi all, I was surfing online for a supplier of bottom paint and found an 
outfit called Carid, based in NJ; they are an internet auto parts supplier, but 
apparently dabble in marine supplies also; does anyone have any experience with 
this company? any info appreciated, thanks 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

















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Stus-List Bottom Paint

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have 2 half full gallons of Interlux CSC - one blue and one red.  Perfectly
fine paint - I changed brands last year.  $75 each.  Local pick up

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

I used 1.5 - 2 gallons on my 30MKI
Depending on the year and how much of the old stuff I took off.

Two good coats and a third on the waterline and leading edges of the
keel/hull/ruddder would still be less than two gallons on Ultra.

That paint worked out great for me.  I switched to petit because of a big,
deep discount and it works almost as good but I think the hull came out
just a tad cleaner with the ultra.
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Sounds like salt water. I'd recommend Micron 66. It works great in saltwater 
areas. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Curtis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Curtis" <cpt.b...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 12:17:51 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed 



Thanksfor all the advise. 

I will purchase 2 gallons. Its what The yard put on last time and it did well. 
I will use Ultra again. 

The yard did it last time. I am going to save on the labor this time and DYI. 

Just not sure if a light sand will be suffice.I will heavy on the leading edges 
and the Fin Rudder. The rudder always seams to have a beard. 


Thanks John But I live in Beaufort South Carolina. 




Thanks again Guys. 










Interlux Ultra Antifouling Paint 

Hard, Durable Finish with Biolux Slime-Blocking Technology 

Fast-Drying, High Solids / Low Emissions Formula Provides Excellent Coverage 

Size: Gallon, Select Color, Original Formula Containing Irgarol 

On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 11:16 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 





Curtis 



Where are you located? I have a half gallon or so of Ultra for discounted price 
if you are local 





John and Maryann 

Legacy III 

1982 C 34 

Noank, CT 




From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Curtis via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 10:39 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Curtis 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed 





Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C 30 MK1 
with 2 coats? 


30 foot long and 10 foot beam? 





-- 


Best regards, 

Curtis McDaniel, 

C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady 

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover. -Mark Twain 
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/ 



cpt.b...@gmail.com 



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. 










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-- 


Best regards, 

Curtis McDaniel, 


C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady 


Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover. -Mark Twain 
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/ 






cpt.b...@gmail.com 


 __/)  

. 




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Curtis,I wet sand with one of those abrasive sponges so that I smooth out the 
old paint and take off the surface crud.  Keeps dust down and does a good 
cleaning job.  You have to let it dry of course, but the next coat adheres 
well.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

 

  From: Curtis via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 11:17 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed
   
Thanksfor all the advise. I will purchase 2 gallons. Its what The yard put on 
last time and it did well. I will use Ultra again. The yard did it last time. I 
am going to save on the labor this time and DYI. Just not sure if a light sand 
will be suffice.I will heavy on the leading edges and the Fin Rudder. The 
rudder always seams to have a beard.
Thanks John But I live in Beaufort South Carolina.
Thanks again Guys.



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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Thanksfor all the advise.

 I will purchase 2 gallons. Its what The yard put on last time and it did
well. I will use Ultra again.

The yard did it last time. I am going to save on the labor this time and
DYI.

Just not sure if a light sand will be suffice.I will heavy on the leading
edges and the Fin Rudder. The rudder always seams to have a beard.


Thanks John But I live in Beaufort South Carolina.


Thanks again Guys.




Interlux Ultra Antifouling Paint

Hard, Durable Finish with Biolux Slime-Blocking Technology

Fast-Drying, High Solids / Low Emissions Formula Provides Excellent Coverage

Size: Gallon, Select Color, Original Formula Containing Irgarol

On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 11:16 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Curtis
>
>
>
> Where are you located?  I have a half gallon or so of Ultra for discounted
> price if you are local
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Curtis
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 09, 2016 10:39 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Curtis
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bottom paint help needed
>
>
>
> Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C
> 30 MK1 with 2 coats?
>
> 30 foot long and 10 foot beam?
>
>
>
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
> *C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> *cpt.b...@gmail.com <bobhick...@rogers.com>*
>
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
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>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com <bobhick...@rogers.com>*


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Curtis



Where are you located?  I have a half gallon or so of Ultra for discounted 
price if you are local





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 10:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed



Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C 30 MK1 
with 2 coats?

30 foot long and 10 foot beam?



--

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel,

C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



 <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com> cpt.b...@gmail.com



 __/) 

.






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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Thanx Ron. Sounds like my plan
On Jan 10, 2016 1:05 PM, "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Curtis,
> I wet sand with one of those abrasive sponges so that I smooth out the old
> paint and take off the surface crud.  Keeps dust down and does a good
> cleaning job.  You have to let it dry of course, but the next coat adheres
> well.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Curtis via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 10, 2016 11:17 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed
>
> Thanksfor all the advise.
>  I will purchase 2 gallons. Its what The yard put on last time and it did
> well. I will use Ultra again.
> The yard did it last time. I am going to save on the labor this time and
> DYI.
> Just not sure if a light sand will be suffice.I will heavy on the leading
> edges and the Fin Rudder. The rudder always seams to have a beard.
>
> Thanks John But I live in Beaufort South Carolina.
>
> Thanks again Guys.
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Curtis, I use a gallon of Hydrocoat (it is thick) each time I paint. It barely 
covers – one coat. I, like others, paint the waterline, keel leading edge, 
rudder first and then fill in while spreading the paint out. The old paint does 
not leach away on the flat parts of the middle hull, but does on the curves at 
the chines and leading edges, where I make sure there is extra coverage.

 

Gary 

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2016 10:39 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

 

Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C 30 MK1 
with 2 coats?

30 foot long and 10 foot beam?

 

-- 

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel, 

C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

 

 <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com> cpt.b...@gmail.com

 

 __/) 

. 




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I use a sanding block designed for touching up dry wall mud that attaches to a 
shop vac. 
It uses special sheets of what looks like window screen, but which is abrasive 
and is available in a few different grit sizes. 
That coupled with a fine dust bag in the shop vac, and I do my sanding indoors. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 13:04
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed


  Curtis,
  I wet sand with one of those abrasive sponges so that I smooth out the old 
paint and take off the surface crud.  Keeps dust down and does a good cleaning 
job.  You have to let it dry of course, but the next coat adheres well.
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  C 30-1
  STL








--
  From: Curtis via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
  Cc: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2016 11:17 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed



  Thanksfor all the advise.
   I will purchase 2 gallons. Its what The yard put on last time and it did 
well. I will use Ultra again. 
  The yard did it last time. I am going to save on the labor this time and DYI. 
  Just not sure if a light sand will be suffice.I will heavy on the leading 
edges and the Fin Rudder. The rudder always seams to have a beard.

  Thanks John But I live in Beaufort South Carolina.


  Thanks again Guys.










--


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Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C 30
MK1 with 2 coats?
30 foot long and 10 foot beam?

-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

1 gallon will probably be sufficient.  I buy 2 for my 37+ and I usually
have plenty for a second coat on the leading edges and the waterline and
still have left over. The cans often have advice on the square footage of
coverage per can.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 9, 2016 10:40 PM, "Curtis via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C
> 30 MK1 with 2 coats?
> 30 foot long and 10 foot beam?
>
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
>
> *C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I've always needed just over 1gal to do a complete job.  Maybe I could do it 
thinner, but I don't think so.  When I try to get by with one gallon, I paint 
the first third completely, the leading edge of the keel, the complete rudder 
and the first foot of depth.  Then I do a very light and incomplete coat on the 
remaining part.  Since the water of our lake doesn't get much light penetration 
below the first foot, it works reasonably well for slime.  We have no critters 
to worry about attaching to the hull.I use WM Bottom Shield now but used Petit 
in the past until it got so expensive.  It's usually good for 2yrs, but I don't 
race my own boat any longer either.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

 

  From: Curtis via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Saturday, January 9, 2016 9:39 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed
   
Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C 30 MK1 
with 2 coats? 30 foot long and 10 foot beam?
-- 
Best regards,Curtis McDaniel, 
C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/ cpt.b...@gmail.com  __/) 

. 




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Curtis,

You'll probably need 5 litres. I use about 6 litres.

Sucks, yes. On the bright side, if you had the larger boat you would 
need 9 litres. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:39 PM 09/01/2016, you wrote:
Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my 
C 30 MK1 with 2 coats?

30 foot long and 10 foot beam?

--

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel,

C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Bob,  how much was the cost for the dry ice blasting?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
On Oct 22, 2015 8:18 AM, "robert via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job,
> little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20
> minutes.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be
> good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The
> guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to
> avoid digging into the gelcoat)
>
> As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to trap
> moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local knowledge /
> recommendations as different waters / climates dictate different
> approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> > I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
> > in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
> >
> > 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> > uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat
> and
> > little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> > experience with the two technologies?
> >
> > 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> > the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era
> C,
> > it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> > amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple barrier
> > coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few
> coats?
> > Thanks- Dave
> >
> > Aries
> > 1990 C 34+
> > New London, CT
> Regards
> --
>
> *François Rivard*  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
> Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015 IBM Sales & Distribution,
> Software Sales  Usa Mobile: 770-639-0429
> e-mail: jfriv...@us.ibm.com
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[robert via CnC-List]

I had the bottom dry ice blasted.took about 5 hours.great job, 
little to know mess.shop vaced the old paint from the ground in 20 
minutes.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 11:30 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:

Hi David,

I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be 
good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. 
The guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're 
doing to avoid digging into the gelcoat)


As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to 
trap moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local 
knowledge / recommendations as different waters / climates dictate 
different approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA





> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and 
repaint

> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the 
gelcoat and

> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 
era C,

> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple 
barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few 
coats?

> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
Regards


*François Rivard*4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
Big Data Black Belt  Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales Usa
Mobile: 770-639-0429
e-mail: jfriv...@us.ibm.com 





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Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi David, 

I heard good things about dry ice and soda, Walnuts are supposed to be 
good too. (Mine was done the old fashion way with an abrasive wheel. The 
guy did a remarkable job, but you really have to know what you're doing to 
avoid digging into the gelcoat)

As for barrier coating I was advised against it as well (Supposed to trap 
moisture) and did not re-coat . I would go with the local knowledge / 
recommendations as different waters / climates dictate different 
approaches. I'm in fresh water witch is worse for osmosis. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 





> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and 
repaint
> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat 
and
> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era 
C,
> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don?t need to put on multiple 
barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few 
coats?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
Regards



François Rivard
 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

Big Data Black Belt
 Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales
 Usa
Mobile:
770-639-0429
 

e-mail:
jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 

 
 


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Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[robert via CnC-List]

I put 7 coats of Interprotect 2000E on the bottom 10 years ago and the 
bottom is fine..don't apply a barrier coat immediately after 
haulout..let the bottom dry for 6 months.


There are lots of boats at our club that have had the same thing done 
with no problems.   Like most jobs, if it's done right, there should be 
no problem.


One of the local brokers, Ocean Yacht Sales, uses a barrier coat on 
older boats  as a 'sales feature' to prospective clients.  I had my boat 
surveyed last week (insurance required) and the surveyor felt the 
barrier coat was a 'positive' not a 'negative' when told how it was done.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-21 7:44 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it 
trapped moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and
repaint in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:

1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the
lower uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on
the gelcoat and little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone
have any comments or experience with the two technologies?

2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom
painting, but the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed
that for a 1990 era C, it should not need barrier coating.  That
would dramatically reduce the amount of painting next spring if I
don’t need to put on multiple barrier coats.  Do people agree that
it is not needed?  Compromise of a few coats?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint in 
the spring.  I have two questions for the list:

1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower uses 
crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat and little 
followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or experience with 
the two technologies?

2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but the 
last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era C, it 
should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the amount of 
painting next spring if I don’t need to put on multiple barrier coats.  Do 
people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few coats?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[David via CnC-List]

I stripped Corsair's bottom soon after I bought her.   I decided to not barrier 
coat  because if it was still dry (per survey the year prior)  after 24 + 
years, my theory is she will survive another 24 years without the BS of 
applying barrier coats.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2015 18:47:43 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dainyr...@icloud.com

That matches my my yard told me during my last haulout when I discussed a 
possible barrier coat...

Bob BoyerS/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230email: 
dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
On Oct 21, 2015, at 6:44 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it trapped 
moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.
Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland, Or
On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint in 
the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower uses 
crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat and little 
followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or experience with 
the two technologies?
2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but the 
last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era C, it 
should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the amount of 
painting next spring if I don’t need to put on multiple barrier coats.  Do 
people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few coats?  Thanks- Dave

Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT






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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it
trapped moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat and
> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era C,
> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don’t need to put on multiple barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few coats?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Consider dry ice blasting.  That's what was recommended to me.  It leaves
almost nothing to clean up and is very mildly abrasive.  Some of the media
can leave pocks which need filled and fared.  Ratchets the price up
considerably.

I don't think my 1989 37+ is barrier coated.  But when i had my rudder
rebuilt 3 winters ago the fiberglass guy finished it with barrier coat.  At
haul out this past spring guess which one had pimples, the hull or the
rudder.  That's right, the rudder.  So 2 seasons in the water or 26 years
in the water?  I say if the gelcoat and original fiberglass lasted this
long leave it alone.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 21, 2015 7:04 PM, "David via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I stripped Corsair's bottom soon after I bought her.   I decided to not
> barrier coat  because if it was still dry (per survey the year prior)
> after 24 + years, my theory is she will survive another 24 years without
> the BS of applying barrier coats.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> --
> Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2015 18:47:43 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> That matches my my yard told me during my last haulout when I discussed a
> possible barrier coat...
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 6:44 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it
> trapped moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
> in the spring.  I have two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  I have two quotes now- the higher uses walnut shells and the lower
> uses crushed recycled glass in water.  Both claim gentle on the gelcoat and
> little followup prep needed for painting.  Anyone have any comments or
> experience with the two technologies?
>
> 2.  I had originally planned to barrier coat before bottom painting, but
> the last time this issue was discussed, it seemed that for a 1990 era C,
> it should not need barrier coating.  That would dramatically reduce the
> amount of painting next spring if I don’t need to put on multiple barrier
> coats.  Do people agree that it is not needed?  Compromise of a few coats?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

This may make sense for a quick haul out jobs of days, but stripping in the 
Fall and repainting in the Spring would be the ideal for barrier coating.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 7:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Fred Hazzard <fshazz...@gmail.com <mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping
> Message-ID:
>   <can6migb1dokbagp_kjmosr3c8svucq0z27cjcb5np1cqzoh...@mail.gmail.com 
> <mailto:can6migb1dokbagp_kjmosr3c8svucq0z27cjcb5np1cqzoh...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it
> trapped moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> wrote:
> 
>> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
>> in the spring

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Doesn't say much good for your competition then but you do have a slippery
boat

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Wed, Jul 1, 2015 at 11:09 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I totally concur..

 You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.
 If the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint
 from the factory.

 BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly
 when we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real
 long yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their
 VC-17 bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to
 consistently show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's
 frequent mistakes and my old bedsheet sails. :-)

 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA





 Message: 6
 Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
 From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
 To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
 Message-ID:
 
 1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria
 but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I
 wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion
 and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round
 Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off
 during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before
 painting as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never
 read the directions.

 I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as
 close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

 I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years
 and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay
 ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a
 better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the
 fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur
 attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a
 soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt
 Water and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be
 burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets
 smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives.


 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


 Regards
 --
 *François Rivard* 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
 Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales  Distribution, Software
 Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429 e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com


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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

hey Kevin,

I'm skeptical that Roundup addition to bottom 
paint will work. I've been lead to believe that 
Roundup needs to be applied to green leafy plants 
that are in the growing stage.


If you think it works, what kind of proportions are we looking at?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 07:36 AM 01/07/2015, you wrote:

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint 
and the waters in which we sail should be taken 
out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew 
of anti biotics into these same waters is 
similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the EPA 
all you like, but someone needs to take on the 
unenviable task of protecting the rest of us and 
our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.


Kevin
30-2

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AMÂ Jean-Francois J 
Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I totally concur..

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You 
apply it as prescribed.  If the tetracycline 
was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from the factory. Â


BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine 
(I check it regularly when we swim) after being 
constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real 
long yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My 
competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom every 
week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to 
consistently show-up on the podium despite our 
inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old bedsheet sails. :-)


-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA Â



Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.netcscheaf...@comcast.net
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:
               
mailto:1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill 
lots of germs and bacteria but will dissolve so 
fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I 
wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear 
of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release of 
it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in 
Round Up and I've heard the same people 
complain that their paint flaked off during 
haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit 
paper before painting as directed, and can tell 
by their confused expression, they never read the directions.


I respect the guys who write the application 
instructions, follow those as close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.


I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used 
VC-Offshore for 8 years and got fed up with the 
fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to 
stay ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and 
sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, 
Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all 
winter and the fouling looked pretty bad this 
May. All the boats in y marina had a fur 
attached to their hulls. I was surprised how 
easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, 
and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed 
for Salt Water and Fresh Water requires Micron 
Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the 
paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design 
gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

Regards
François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

img 
src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzwhttps://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLG 
HV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw;


Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Roundup is water soluble.

Bill Bina

On 7/2/2015 11:48 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:

hey Kevin,

I'm skeptical that Roundup addition to bottom paint will work. I've 
been lead to believe that Roundup needs to be applied to green leafy 
plants that are in the growing stage.


If you think it works, what kind of proportions are we looking at?

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1



At 07:36 AM 01/07/2015, you wrote:

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in 
which we sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a 
witches brew of anti biotics into these same waters is similarly 
ignorant IMO. Complain about the EPA all you like, but someone needs 
to take on the unenviable task of protecting the rest of us and our 
sailing waters from the ill informed and questionably intentioned. My 
2 cents.


Kevin
30-2

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AMÂ Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



I totally concur..

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as
prescribed.  If the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it
would be in the paint from the factory. Â

BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it
regularly when we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5
years. It's not real long yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.Â
My competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom every week, I scrub it
never yet we're fast enough to consistently show-up on the podium
despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old
bedsheet sails. :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA Â



Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:
              Â
1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
mailto:1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and
bacteria but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a
few days. I wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of
jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins.
I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've heard the same
people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I ask
them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as
directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never
read the directions.

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow
those as close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for
8 years and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom
each week to stay ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and
sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, Micron 66, and
love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked
pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached
to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with
a soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is
designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I
think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth
as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi
season hard abatives.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

Regards
François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

img

src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw


Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales  Distribution,
Software Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429Â
e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com    Â

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http

Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I totally concur.. 

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed. If 
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint 
from the factory. 

BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly 
when we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real 
long yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their 
VC-17 bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to 
consistently show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's 
frequent mistakes and my old bedsheet sails. :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA 





Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:
 1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I 
wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the 
adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing 
in Round Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint 
flaked off during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper 
before painting as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, 
they never read the directions. 

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years 
and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay 
ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a 
better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the 
fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur 
attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with 
a soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for 
Salt Water and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be 
burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets 
smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


Regards



François Rivard
 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

Big Data Black Belt
 Atlanta, 30327-3015
IBM Sales  Distribution, Software Sales
 Usa
Mobile:
770-639-0429
 

e-mail:
jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 

 
 


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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we
sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of
anti biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain
about the EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable
task of protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill
informed and questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.

Kevin
30-2

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I totally concur..

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from
the factory.

BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when
we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long
yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17
bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently
show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes
and my old bedsheet sails. :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA



Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:

1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria
but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I
wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion
and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round
Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off
during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before
painting as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never
read the directions.

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years
and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay
ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a
better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the
fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur
attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a
soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt
Water and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be
burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets
smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

Regards
*François Rivard* 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

img src=
https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw


Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales  Distribution, Software
Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429 e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Not defending the use of antibiotics in bottom paint, but nearly all 
antifouling is toxic to marine life (which is why it’s used as antifouling ...)

Copper is nasty stuff to marine  life and to people (in sufficient doses), 
which is why the smart sailor wears a respirator and plenty of protective 
clothing when sanding and painting the bottom. Trinidad Pro, until recently, 
had an effective (read nasty) pesticide called Irgarol that ran into trouble 
with the EPA.

Those of us who are older may remember tin-based bottom paint that worked 
wonderfully, but created aquatic dead zones around your boat.

Using antibiotics unnecessarily is bad (both in farming and sailing) because 
bacteria adapt quickly and can learn to outwit particular types, making those 
antibiotics ineffective.

Just saying ... none us us has cleans hands in this. If you have a sailboat, 
you’re harming the environment to some degree.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2015 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll ; Jean-Francois J Rivard
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we 
sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of anti 
biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the 
EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable task of 
protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.

Kevin
30-2


On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I totally concur..

  You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If 
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from the 
factory.

  BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when 
we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long yet 
but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom 
every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently show-up on 
the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old 
bedsheet sails. :-)

  -Francois
  1990 34+ Take Five
  Lake Lanier, GA





  Message: 6
  Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
  From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
  To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
  Message-ID:
  1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

  I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't 
add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow 
release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've 
heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I 
ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can 
tell by their confused expression, they never read the directions.

  I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

  I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead of 
it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, 
Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked 
pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to their 
hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, and 
very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water 
requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on 
very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi 
season hard abatives.


  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 CC 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


  Regards
  François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

  img 
src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw;

  Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

You really ought to become better informed yourself before you go shooting your 
mouth off about killing people. You obviously know very little about these 
chemicals, chemistry in general, or proportions or common usage yourself, or 
you wouldn't make such ridiculous and offensive comments about other sailors on 
this list. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Kevin Driscoll ; Jean-Francois J Rivard 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2015 10:36
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change


  Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we 
sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of anti 
biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the 
EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable task of 
protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.

  Kevin
  30-2


  On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I totally concur.. 

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If 
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from the 
factory.  

BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when 
we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long yet 
but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom 
every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently show-up on 
the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old 
bedsheet sails. :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA  





Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:

1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't 
add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow 
release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've 
heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I 
ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can 
tell by their confused expression, they never read the directions. 

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years 
and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay 
ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a 
better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the 
fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur 
attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a 
soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water 
and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the 
paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. 
They are multi season hard abatives. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


Regards
François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

img 
src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw;

Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales  Distribution, Software 
Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429 e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Now, girls…!!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Jul 1, 2015, at 15:24, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

You really ought to become better informed yourself before you go shooting your 
mouth off about killing people. You obviously know very little about these 
chemicals, chemistry in general, or proportions or common usage yourself, or 
you wouldn't make such ridiculous and offensive comments about other sailors on 
this list. 
 
Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
 - Original Message - 
 From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Kevin Driscoll mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com ; Jean-Francois J Rivard 
 mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2015 10:36
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
 
 Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we 
 sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of anti 
 biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the 
 EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable task of 
 protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
 questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.
 Kevin
 30-2
 On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I totally concur.. 
 You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If 
 the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from 
 the factory.  
 BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when 
 we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long 
 yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17 
 bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently 
 show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and 
 my old bedsheet sails. :-)
 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA  
 
 
 
 Message: 6
 Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
 From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net
 To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
 Message-ID:
 
 1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net 
 mailto:1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
 but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I 
 wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion 
 and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round 
 Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off 
 during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting 
 as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the 
 directions. 
 I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
 close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 
 I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
 got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead 
 of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better 
 paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling 
 looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to 
 their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck 
 brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and 
 Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the 
 paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. 
 They are multi season hard abatives. 
 Chuck 
 Resolute 
 1990 CC 34R 
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
 Regards
 François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
 img 
 src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw
  
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

All I know is the old Sears bottom paint would keep your boat spotless all year 
and also any other boats nearby. It killed anything that dared to get within 
100 yards!

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com 

 

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[svpegasus38]

I had Micron 66 on Pegasus lasted 4 1/2 years. Would have lasted longer 
except I had the bottom cleaned once. Just using the boat kept it clean. Now I 
am using Blue Water 45. 3 years and still going strong. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Chuck S via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2015 
18:07To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list;Cc: Chuck S;Subject:Re: Stus-List Bottom 
paint -ingredient changeI think any drug like tetracycline will kill lots of 
germs and bacteria but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few 
days.  I wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the 
adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins.  I've heard of people mixing in 
Round Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off 
during haulout.  I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting 
as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the 
directions. 
I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.   
I understand your frustration with VC-17.  I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
got fed up with the fouling.  Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead 
of it.  Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad.  Switched to a better 
paint, Micron 66, and love it.  Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling 
looked pretty bad this May.  All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to 
their hulls.  I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck 
brush, and very little pressure.  Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and 
Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think.  Both can be burnished, but the 
paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates.  
They are multi season hard abatives.   


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas 
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2015 8:23:54 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

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MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0in} 
Rick, I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the 
veterinary grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere 
mortals who are not M.D.s. The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% 
tetracycline by weight and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on 
the packaging. I used about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed 
to work ok mix and application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary 
stuff consists of particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder 
used in the gel caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine 
powder first, but I was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The 
result was as you might expect from this description. The surface texture of 
paint with bits of fine sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a 
word to the wise. Make sure that anything you add to paint is ground up super 
fine. Seems obvious I know, but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid.  
Steve ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort Stanley P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday 
afternoon. - Original Message -From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint 
-ingredient change
A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big 
Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its 
expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said 
he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the 
name, when you had to pay

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

  Rick, 
  I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary 
grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who 
are not M.D.s. 
  The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight 
and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used 
about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and 
application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of 
particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel 
caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I 
was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might 
expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine 
sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure 
that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, 
but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. 

  Steve Thomas
  CC27 MKIII
  Port Stanley

  P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. 
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change


A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a 
big Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its 
expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said 
he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the 
name, when you had to pay the marina to put anti-slime additive in the paint.

 

Damn! My bottom was really clean between bottom paintings.

 

I have since been told that you can purchase antibiotics for use on horses 
at many farm stores that cater to stables. I suppose it is not a good idea to 
tell your local version of the EPA if you chose to do this. (And in case anyone 
from the government is listening, I use Petit Ultima SR 60 on both my boats.)

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not been shown to extend the 
active life of antifouling paints in our tests, and we’ve had a hard time 
discerning any enhanced slime resistance in Irgarol-boosted paints after six 
months in the water.  

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria but 
will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't add 
anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release 
of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've heard 
the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I ask them 
if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can tell by 
their confused expression, they never read the directions. 

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead of 
it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, 
Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked 
pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to their 
hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, and 
very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water 
requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on 
very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi 
season hard abatives. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas sthom...@bellnet.ca 
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2015 8:23:54 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change 





Rick, 
I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary grade 
tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who are not 
M.D.s. 
The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight and 
whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used 
about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and 
application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of 
particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel 
caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I 
was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might 
expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine 
sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure 
that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, 
but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. 
Steve Thomas 
CC27 MKIII 
Port Stanley 
P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. 

blockquote

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change 



A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big 
Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its 
expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said 
he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the 
name, when you had to pay the marina to put anti-slime additive in the paint. 



Damn! My bottom was really clean between bottom paintings. 



I have since been told that you can purchase antibiotics for use on horses at 
many farm stores that cater to stables. I suppose it is not a good idea to tell 
your local version of the EPA if you chose to do this. (And in case anyone from 
the government is listening, I use Petit Ultima SR 60 on both my boats.) 





Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 9:03 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change 


In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not been shown to extend the active 
life of antifouling paints in our tests, and we’ve had a hard time discerning 
any enhanced slime resistance in Irgarol-boosted paints after six months in the 
water.  



/blockquote

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint - Micron Extra, CSC 66 ?

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Micron Extra is great for Chesapeake. I paint every other year, No growth 
between paints. Not sure how it would do in Halifax.

Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie
Annapolis, MD
30-1

 On Mar 30, 2015, at 2:41 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
  
 I was in Maine skiing last week and took a morning off to drive to Hamilton 
 Marine in Searsport to pick p a gallon of Micron 66.  This mostly based on 
 Bob Abbott’s experience on Azura which is moored near our boat.
  
 While there I was looking at the active ingredients on Micron 66 vs Micron 
 Extra.  The Micron Extra is considerably cheaper and it seemed the copper 
 content not a whole lot less.  Does anyone on this list have good experience 
 with the two and what the big difference is between then and what the 
 difference in their intended usage?  For good measure perhaps throw in how 
 these two compare to Micron CSC.
  
 The old email from Chuck below brought this back to my attention.
  
 Thanks
  
 Mike Hoyt
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS
  
 From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] 
 Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:04 PM
 To: Hoyt, Mike; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
 Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
  
 Used Micron 66 after reading about it on this list.  Great paint for salt 
 water.   Fast and stays clean compared to VC-Offshore which requires frequent 
 scrubbing. 
 I moved my boat to Chesapeake and now have to change.  I'll probably go to 
 Extra and burnish lightly.   
  
  
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
  
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Stus-List Bottom Paint question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite
bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I
should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but,
HEY, I'm getting old(er).

 

In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her
new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to
use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less
expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote
that seems to be on the boat now.

 

I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the
two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt
water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in
brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed,
in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town.

 

So which version of Micron will work better here?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Micron 66 needs salt to work.  My water is about 1200ppm halfway up the
Chesapeake Bay.  If you are saltier than me then you might try
66...otherwise steer clear.  It can flake off in hand sized flakes.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons,  MD
On Mar 30, 2015 9:32 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite
 bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I
 should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but,
 HEY, I'm getting old(er).



 In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her
 new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to
 use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly
 less expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass
 Bottomkote that seems to be on the boat now.



 I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the
 two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs
 salt water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective
 in brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly
 sailed, in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town.



 So which version of Micron will work better here?



 Rick Brass

 *Imzadi  *CC 38 mk 2

 *la Belle Aurore *CC 25 mk1

 Washington, NC



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 bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Rick

Contact Interlux directly with both questions and they will be happy to answer 
your questions.  www.yachtpaint.comhttp://www.yachtpaint.com is their web 
site and their technical support is very good and they also list the properties 
of all their paints on the site.

From my recollection Micron 66 is SALT WATER only.  There is also Micron CSC 
and Micron Extra either of which I think are ok for your situation.  In the VC 
series VC Offshore is SALT WATER and VC 17 is fresh water

Regards

Mike Hoyt
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 10:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite bottom 
paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I should recall 
the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but, HEY, I'm getting 
old(er).

In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her 
new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to use 
Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less 
expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote that 
seems to be on the boat now.

I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the two 
versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt water. 
One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in 
brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed, in 
brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town.

So which version of Micron will work better here?

Rick Brass
Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1
Washington, NC

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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

The surface prep and the paint compatibilities are critical.  

 

As Mike suggested, calling the Tech Help 800 # at Yachtpaint is the best way
to get specific answers for their paints.  They also know how their paints
fair over other companies' paints, whether the prior paint needs to be
removed or just a good sanding will suffice.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 9:39 AM
To: Rick Brass; CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question

 

Micron 66 needs salt to work.  My water is about 1200ppm halfway up the
Chesapeake Bay.  If you are saltier than me then you might try
66...otherwise steer clear.  It can flake off in hand sized flakes.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Mar 30, 2015 9:32 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite
bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I
should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but,
HEY, I'm getting old(er).

 

In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her
new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to
use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less
expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote
that seems to be on the boat now.

 

I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the
two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt
water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in
brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed,
in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town.

 

So which version of Micron will work better here?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 


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Stus-List bottom paint - Micron Extra, CSC 66 ?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I was in Maine skiing last week and took a morning off to drive to Hamilton 
Marine in Searsport to pick p a gallon of Micron 66.  This mostly based on Bob 
Abbott’s experience on Azura which is moored near our boat.

While there I was looking at the active ingredients on Micron 66 vs Micron 
Extra.  The Micron Extra is considerably cheaper and it seemed the copper 
content not a whole lot less.  Does anyone on this list have good experience 
with the two and what the big difference is between then and what the 
difference in their intended usage?  For good measure perhaps throw in how 
these two compare to Micron CSC.

The old email from Chuck below brought this back to my attention.

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:04 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint

Used Micron 66 after reading about it on this list.  Great paint for salt 
water.   Fast and stays clean compared to VC-Offshore which requires frequent 
scrubbing.
I moved my boat to Chesapeake and now have to change.  I'll probably go to 
Extra and burnish lightly.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

 From another point of view..  In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not
 been shown to extend the active life of antifouling paints in our tests,
 and we’ve had a hard time discerning any enhanced slime resistance in
 Irgarol-boosted paints after six months in the water.

 In other words, JD is using tried time honored scared tactics to create a
 very lucrative bottom paint bonanza for themselves this spring:   We
 ordered as much stock as possible of these Irgarol formulated paints to
 help customers seamlessly prepare for spring launching.  - **Supplies
 are limited, however we do have these paints in stock and will sell them
 while inventory lasts *-

 Don't forget:  Our own line of six different Total boat paints were all
 developed without Irgarol and we are obviously glad to stand tall in the
 industry with our own proven growth-fighting bottom paints, without the
 distraction of reformulating our product line.

 Supplies are limited ! BUY BUY BUY !

 Yeah, Right.

 Just Sayin'


 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA___

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[LKL via CnC-List]

According to Pettit tech support,  the herbicide is a supply issue from the 
manufacturer and only temporary at that.  Does anyone know if this is correct ?


 

 

  


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

Buy it while you can get it!

http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/
 



-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



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Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Buy it while you can get it!

http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

From the link in the email that started this thread:

Irgarol: The algaecide supplied by chemical giant BASF and widely relied
upon by most marine paint manufacturers to control “soft growths” like
slime and plant growth that has very recently been discontinued as a bottom
paint ingredient.

BASF seems to have caught the bottom paint industry off guard with their
announcement late last year, and while manufacturers of the Irgarol
dependent paint hope that in just 6-9 months it could be in production
again, there is no guarantee, and certainly these companies had to act
quickly to be ready for bottom paint season with an alternative. There are
a number of popular antifouling paints that are being affected by BASF’s
discontinuation of Irgarol.

*Pettit*: ***SR-21
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6735 will
not be available until Irgarol is re-released (available at JD.com
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6735)

http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/
Ken H.



On 18 March 2015 at 13:50, LKL via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   According to Pettit tech support,  the herbicide is a supply issue from
 the manufacturer and only temporary at that.  Does anyone know if this is
 correct ?








  *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, March 18, 2015 10:56 AM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

  Buy it while you can get it!


 http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/



 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

 --
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Re: Stus-List bottom paint Vivid For Sale

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

I have also used Micron 66 with great success for the past 6 years.  Changed to 
it after years with VC Offshore when was more actively racing but VC’s weekly 
cleanings and wet sanding prior to launch just became annoying.  

 

Had planned to try VIVID and bought 3 gallons as was going to be racing more 
but have decided to stay with Micron 66.  

 

So I have 3 gal. of VIVID and 1 gal. of Pettit’s 120 solvent available for sale 
at a very good price to any interested party.  

 

Please contact me off list:  nausetbeach at optonline.net

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 5:43 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint

 

Mike

If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's experience...use 
Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite meticulous about Azura 
and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one year he had so much growth 
on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september that the boat had a hard time 
making headway under power...the prop was foulded extremley bad...next year Bob 
asked this list for advice with his prop fouling issue...I knew he had such 
good results with Micron 66 on Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he didn't 
mind having a painted black prop before launch rather than shiny bronze he 
could just try painting it as well with Micron 66...I believe he did paint the 
prop and achieved good results...something about the critters in the Northwest 
Arm, very prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper oxide 
toxins...Micron 66 might just have the right copper toxins and added biocide 
for the moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so this coming 
season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes, think 
you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron CSC, Amercoat 
ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look somewhere esle for bigger 
gains, the performance of thse paints are quite similar...if your boat's bottom 
is in top notch shape go for one with multiyear ablative properties and do the 
job once ever 3-4 years instead of every year, like i do.

The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of some 
antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume due to 
higher copper oxide content

 

Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the summer 
on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water, shallow at 
about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until 
september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2 liters 
solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does about 2 
years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before application 
before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison and no 
noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat over blue 
Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that Mike's CC 33 MKII 
is very slippery as well

 

Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net 

 

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in December.  
It is how he described.

I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
(similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race week after in 
water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2nd time Labour 
day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to Halifax 
from its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be some slime 
and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  
Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in 
NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing 
on the vertical surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.

Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC.  
Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to 
work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week November.  Was 
dirty on each haulout.

When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me 
consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10 years 
and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada.  They 
insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.

All of the above are racing paints and that is also

Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water
(But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1
year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth
free / smooth / fast.

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes
to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can
stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you
have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing
in the spring will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper
action.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago.
They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is
near impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in
toxic chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.___

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Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint


+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / fast.

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: 
tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.commailto:tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
___

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Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with 
monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will 
haul at around five years.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date:03/11/2015  12:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 

Thanks
 
Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness
 
Mike
Persistence
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint
 
+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.___

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mike

If I kept my boat in the northwest Arm I would go with Bob's
experience...use Micron 66 if you can get it...as you know Bob is quite
meticulous about Azura and he follows manufacturer's directions well...one
year he had so much growth on his prop (2 blade fixed) in late september
that the boat had a hard time making headway under power...the prop was
foulded extremley bad...next year Bob asked this list for advice with his
prop fouling issue...I knew he had such good results with Micron 66 on
Azura's bottom so I suggested that if he didn't mind having a painted black
prop before launch rather than shiny bronze he could just try painting it
as well with Micron 66...I believe he did paint the prop and achieved good
results...something about the critters in the Northwest Arm, very
prolific... and somewhat resitant to normal copper oxide toxins...Micron 66
might just have the right copper toxins and added biocide for the
moment...but those critters adapt to their environment so this coming
season may be different, anyway you have seen Azura with your own eyes,
think you could expect more than that from any paint.  Micon 66, Micron
CSC, Amercoat ABC 4 or???...if you are looking for more speed, look
somewhere esle for bigger gains, the performance of thse paints are quite
similar...if your boat's bottom is in top notch shape go for one with
multiyear ablative properties and do the job once ever 3-4 years instead of
every year, like i do.
The copper oxide content is primarily resposnbile for the higher cost of
some antifouling paints and the better paints often weigh more per volume
due to higher copper oxide content

Yes I use Amercoat ABC 4 and like Mike Amirault says my boat spends the
summer on a mooring right at the head of the Bay, sort of brakish water,
shallow at about 12 feet and warm enough for swimming from mid june until
september...Amercoat works fine for me but I apply a thin coat (about 2
liters solvent diluted before spring launch every year) so one gallon does
about 2 years...no pressure wash after haulout and very little prep before
application before launch...I have used Micron CSC, expensive by comparison
and no noticebale difference...I use a very thin layer of black Amercoat
over blue Micron  CSC and no issues with adherence...I have noted that
Mike's CC 33 MKII is very slippery as well

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 11:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in
 December.  It is how he described.



 I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last
 year (similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year
 (could use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race
 week after in water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed
 anyway. 2nd time Labour day weekend at beginning September when we
 brought the boat back to Halifax from its summer location on Northumberland
 Strait.  There would be some slime and whatever it is that grows on the
 flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  Last haulout would be end of
 October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in NW Arm approx. 150 feet
 from Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing on the vertical
 surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.



 Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron
 CSC.  Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled
 Sept 8 to work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week
 November.  Was dirty on each haulout.



 When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot
 conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me
 consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10
 years and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada.
 They insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.



 All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration even
 though we now sail a Winnebago



 Mike

 Persistence



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *robert
 via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:05 AM
 *To:* mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List bottom paint



 I had no complaints using Micron CSCused it for about 12 yearsa
 few years back, I had the opportunity to buy a few gallons of Micron 66 for
 $100 per gallon.  I read about its effectiveness in dealing with
 'slime'.the biocides in it I guess which are not in CSC.  And 2 1/2
 gallons for $250, how could I refuse.


 AZURA logs close to 1,000nm per season and when the boat is hauled in
 October, it does not need a bottom cleaning and/or pressure wash.  The
 bottom looks pretty much the same as it did when given a light coat of 66
 in the Spring

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On the Eastern Shore, a local J-80 was dry sailed. If she was launched for a 
Wednesday race, she needed a quick 'floss' (dragging a bed sheet from side to 
side) for Saturday. Last year, we (another J-80) had one year old Vivid and a 
diver every other week - noticed some drag so had the diver come weekly, which 
we also did on our 30-1 with year old Hydrocoat. We are hoping fresh Hydrocoat 
SR will last two weeks and the same with some fresh Vivid on the 80. We got a 
deal on diving because I moved Penniless next to the 80 so the diver could get 
two at a time.

If all this doesn't make sense, the ex-Admiral sails the 30 and I crew on an 80 
and race the 30 on some Sundays.

Gary Nylander
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  To: robert ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 2:29 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint


  Most of the race boats in Annapolis are painted and have weekly cleanings!  
If you dive and have Wednesdays free you can pick up some good money!


  J30 class rules prohibit dry sailing, and no one dares go bare.


  Joel


  On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:26 PM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and 
haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably monthly.

You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:

  I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but 
with monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I 
will haul at around five years.


  Jack Brennan
  Former CC 25
  Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.








  Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


   Original message 
  From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
  Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 


  Thanks



  Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as 
Micron CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness



  Mike

  Persistence



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint



  + 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

  Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that 
burnishes to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator 
cuffs can stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where 
you have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing 
in the spring will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ Take Five
  Lake Lanier, GA



  Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
  Message-ID: tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

  I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. 
They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near 
impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic 
chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.

  Jack Brennan
  Former CC 25
  Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.


   

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  -- 

  Joel 
  301 541 8551


--


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http

Stus-List Bottom paint

[robert via CnC-List]

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint 
and haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, 
probably monthly.


You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:
I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, 
but with monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of 
potency. I figure I will haul at around five years.


Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

Thanks

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same 
as Micron CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness


Mike

Persistence

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt 
water (But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so 
far (1 year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely 
slime / growth free / smooth / fast.


Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that 
burnishes to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your 
rotator cuffs can stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are 
in an area where you have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding 
or bronze wool burnishing in the spring will re-activate / supercharge 
the growth killing copper action.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com 
mailto:tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. 
They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom 
is near impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being 
covered in toxic chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here.


Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

With sea water in the 80s and even the 90s sometimes, you can get bottom growth 
quickly in central and southern Florida.  With no paint, after a month, the 
bottom would be covered in algae and barnacles. 

In Tampa Bay, where I now live, algae growth is so intense that you can't buy 
or use many types of fertilizer in the summer.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date:03/11/2015  2:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint 

Jack:

Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and haul 
regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably monthly.

You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an 
antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote:
I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with 
monthly scrubbing by a diver.  It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will 
haul at around five years.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint 

Thanks

 

Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat.  Am assuming is much the same as Micron 
CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint

 

+ 1 on Petit Trinidad.  It is the #1 recommended paint for overall 
effectiveness / durability in these here parts..   I'm not in salt water (But I 
am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives 
up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / 
fast.  

Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a 
really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand 
the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to 
haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring 
will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA



Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint
Message-ID: tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Stus-List bottom paint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I have been told that Ameron ABC #4 is the closest paint to Micron 66 available 
in Canada.  Bob Abbott believes it is more like Micron CSC and that Dwight 
Veinot uses it on Aliana.  

Anybody else have comparisons or experiences with these particular paints?  I 
have used VC Offshore and Micron CSC over the past 10 years or so and found 
that VC Offshore faster but fouls more quickly than Micron CSC and that both 
slime up especially in the Fall.  The antifouling properties I have been told 
Micron 66 has are a big interest for me as it reduces or eliminates haulouts to 
scrub or hiring a diver

Mike
Persistence


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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I am in the same marina as Dwight Veniot and I did use Amercoat #4 for several 
years. As an antifouling agent it works very well but I found it to be too 
ablative for my boat which sails about 1000nm per season.  After a power wash 
in the fall, the hull would be nearly bare. Since that time, I have switched to 
micron CSC which holds up much better and sometimes just needs a brokers 
touch up rather than a full coat each year. Therefore, I think any cost savings 
you will get with the Amercoat are offset by just going with CSC.___

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Mike

For antifouling properties do you find CSC as good as Amercoat #4?  It is the 
fouling that occurs on Micron CSC that I am trying to get away from

Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike 
amirault via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint

I am in the same marina as Dwight Veniot and I did use Amercoat #4 for several 
years. As an antifouling agent it works very well but I found it to be too 
ablative for my boat which sails about 1000nm per season.  After a power wash 
in the fall, the hull would be nearly bare. Since that time, I have switched to 
micron CSC which holds up much better and sometimes just needs a brokers 
touch up rather than a full coat each year. Therefore, I think any cost savings 
you will get with the Amercoat are offset by just going with CSC.
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Stus-List bottom paint story

[robert via CnC-List]

Some years back, my brother and I were campaigning our Kirby 25we 
used Micron CSCjust before this weekend regatta, we hauled the K25 
on our club's 5 ton crane to give the bottom a cleaning.


Day one on the long spin run to the finish line, there was a CC 37R 
just to leeward and a few boat lengths behind us.they could not pass 
us not matter what they did.  We were in different fleets but on the 
same course to the finish line.


As it turned out, the 37R had a dirty bottom.not sure what paint 
they were using, but their bottom was definitely slowing them down and 
they knew it.  They next morning, the owner had a diver cleaning the 
bottom before the Sunday afternoon race.  Fortunately or unfortunately, 
we didn't get to hook up that pm to see how much of a difference the 
bottom cleaning made on the 37R.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in 
December.  It is how he described.


I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last 
year (similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per 
year (could use a crane so was cheap).  1^st time would be mid July at 
a race week after in water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but 
scrubbed anyway. 2^nd time Labour day weekend at beginning September 
when we brought the boat back to Halifax from its summer location on 
Northumberland Strait.  There would be some slime and whatever it is 
that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  Last 
haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring 
in NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob’s boat.  Would be slime and also 
grass growing on the vertical surfaces. This mattered not weather 
Micron CSC or VC Offshore.


Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron 
CSC.  Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, 
hauled Sept 8 to work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and 
hauled 1^st week November. Was dirty on each haulout.


When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I 
cannot conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has 
made me consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been 
using for 10 years and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 
available in Canada.  They insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its 
properties than to Micron CSC.


All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration 
even though we now sail a Winnebago


Mike

Persistence

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*robert via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:05 AM
*To:* mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List bottom paint

I had no complaints using Micron CSCused it for about 12 
yearsa few years back, I had the opportunity to buy a few gallons 
of Micron 66 for $100 per gallon.  I read about its effectiveness in 
dealing with 'slime'.the biocides in it I guess which are not in 
CSC.  And 2 1/2 gallons for $250, how could I refuse.


AZURA logs close to 1,000nm per season and when the boat is hauled in 
October, it does not need a bottom cleaning and/or pressure wash.  The 
bottom looks pretty much the same as it did when given a light coat of 
66 in the Spring.  I have used 66 for 3 seasons now.I dilute it 
about 10% to make rolling it on easier.  I am usually applying 
antifouling paint around +10C and the little extra solvent makes 
rolling it on easier and it the paint seems to go farther.  The boat 
could go back in the water this Spring with no attention to the 
bottom, however, it will get another diluted, light coat.


A few other club members have witnessed the effectiveness of 66 on my 
boat and have switched from whatever they were using.  They all get it 
when they drive to the USA.


I asked the Binnacle here why they don't carry it..they said  it 
too much trouble getting all the govt approvals because of the 
biocides in the 66.


I don't race AZURA so it really doesn't matter what's on its bottom as 
long as it is not mussels and barnacles and other similar marine growth.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.

On 2015-03-10 10:39 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:

I am in the same marina as Dwight Veniot and I did use Amercoat #4
for several years. As an antifouling agent it works very well but
I found it to be too ablative for my boat which sails about 1000nm
per season.  After a power wash in the fall, the hull would be
nearly bare. Since that time, I have switched to micron CSC which
holds up much better and sometimes just needs a brokers touch up
rather than a full coat each year. Therefore, I think any cost
savings you will get with the Amercoat are offset by justing with CSC.




___

  


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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[robert via CnC-List]

I had no complaints using Micron CSCused it for about 12 yearsa 
few years back, I had the opportunity to buy a few gallons of Micron 66 
for $100 per gallon.  I read about its effectiveness in dealing with 
'slime'.the biocides in it I guess which are not in CSC.  And 2 1/2 
gallons for $250, how could I refuse.


AZURA logs close to 1,000nm per season and when the boat is hauled in 
October, it does not need a bottom cleaning and/or pressure wash.  The 
bottom looks pretty much the same as it did when given a light coat of 
66 in the Spring.  I have used 66 for 3 seasons now.I dilute it 
about 10% to make rolling it on easier.  I am usually applying 
antifouling paint around +10C and the little extra solvent makes rolling 
it on easier and it the paint seems to go farther.  The boat could go 
back in the water this Spring with no attention to the bottom, however, 
it will get another diluted, light coat.


A few other club members have witnessed the effectiveness of 66 on my 
boat and have switched from whatever they were using.  They all get it 
when they drive to the USA.


I asked the Binnacle here why they don't carry it..they said  it too 
much trouble getting all the govt approvals because of the biocides in 
the 66.


I don't race AZURA so it really doesn't matter what's on its bottom as 
long as it is not mussels and barnacles and other similar marine growth.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.

On 2015-03-10 10:39 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
I am in the same marina as Dwight Veniot and I did use Amercoat #4 for 
several years. As an antifouling agent it works very well but I found 
it to be too ablative for my boat which sails about 1000nm per season. 
 After a power wash in the fall, the hull would be nearly bare. Since 
that time, I have switched to micron CSC which holds up much better 
and sometimes just needs a brokers touch up rather than a full coat 
each year. Therefore, I think any cost savings you will get with the 
Amercoat are offset by justing with CSC.



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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in December.  
It is how he described.

I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
(similar to CSC).  I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
use a crane so was cheap).  1st time would be mid July at a race week after in 
water for 1.5 months - bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2nd time Labour 
day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to Halifax 
from its summer location on Northumberland Strait.  There would be some slime 
and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped pattern.  
Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a mooring in 
NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob's boat.  Would be slime and also grass growing 
on the vertical surfaces.  This mattered not weather Micron CSC or VC Offshore.

Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC.  
Was launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to 
work on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1st week November.  Was 
dirty on each haulout.

When I compare my experiences with Bob's on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
conceive using Micron CSC.  The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me 
consider Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10 years 
and owners say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada.  They 
insist it is closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC.

All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration even though 
we now sail a Winnebago

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:05 AM
To: mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint

I had no complaints using Micron CSCused it for about 12 yearsa few 
years back, I had the opportunity to buy a few gallons of Micron 66 for $100 
per gallon.  I read about its effectiveness in dealing with 'slime'.the 
biocides in it I guess which are not in CSC.  And 2 1/2 gallons for $250, how 
could I refuse.

AZURA logs close to 1,000nm per season and when the boat is hauled in October, 
it does not need a bottom cleaning and/or pressure wash.  The bottom looks 
pretty much the same as it did when given a light coat of 66 in the Spring.  I 
have used 66 for 3 seasons now.I dilute it about 10% to make rolling it on 
easier.  I am usually applying antifouling paint around +10C and the little 
extra solvent makes rolling it on easier and it the paint seems to go farther.  
The boat could go back in the water this Spring with no attention to the 
bottom, however, it will get another diluted, light coat.

A few other club members have witnessed the effectiveness of 66 on my boat and 
have switched from whatever they were using.  They all get it when they drive 
to the USA.

I asked the Binnacle here why they don't carry it..they said  it too much 
trouble getting all the govt approvals because of the biocides in the 66.

I don't race AZURA so it really doesn't matter what's on its bottom as long as 
it is not mussels and barnacles and other similar marine growth.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.
On 2015-03-10 10:39 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
I am in the same marina as Dwight Veniot and I did use Amercoat #4 for several 
years. As an antifouling agent it works very well but I found it to be too 
ablative for my boat which sails about 1000nm per season.  After a power wash 
in the fall, the hull would be nearly bare. Since that time, I have switched to 
micron CSC which holds up much better and sometimes just needs a brokers 
touch up rather than a full coat each year. Therefore, I think any cost savings 
you will get with the Amercoat are offset by justing with CSC.




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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're 
not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible 
to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite 
Trinidad is the way to go here.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: mike amirault via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date:03/10/2015  8:24 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint 

Yes, I find CSC equally effective. It does depend on where you keep your boat, 
though, some areas tend to attract more fuzz than others. This may be the 
case for Dwight who is located way up the head of St Margarets bay.___

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Used Micron 66 after reading about it on this list. Great paint for salt water. 
Fast and stays clean compared to VC-Offshore which requires frequent scrubbing. 
I moved my boat to Chesapeake and now have to change. I'll probably go to Extra 
and burnish lightly. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: Mike via CnC-List Hoyt cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: robert robertabb...@eastlink.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 10:19:49 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint 



Bob told me about Micron 66 repeatedly and showed me Azura bottom in December. 
It is how he described. 



I have used Micron CSC, VC Offshore and whatever came on our boat last year 
(similar to CSC). I would haul Nut Case at least three times per year (could 
use a crane so was cheap). 1 st time would be mid July at a race week after in 
water for 1.5 months – bottom looked clean but scrubbed anyway. 2 nd time 
Labour day weekend at beginning September when we brought the boat back to 
Halifax from its summer location on Northumberland Strait. There would be some 
slime and whatever it is that grows on the flat undersides in a star shaped 
pattern. Last haulout would be end of October in Halifax after sitting on a 
mooring in NW Arm approx. 150 feet from Bob’s boat. Would be slime and also 
grass growing on the vertical surfaces. This mattered not weather Micron CSC or 
VC Offshore. 



Last year Persistence came with another manufacturer version of Micron CSC. Was 
launched in June, hauled mid July to work on Transducers, hauled Sept 8 to work 
on propeller shaft, relaunched Sept 19 and hauled 1 st week November. Was dirty 
on each haulout. 



When I compare my experiences with Bob’s on Azura with Micron 66 I cannot 
conceive using Micron CSC. The pain of obtaining Micron 66 has made me consider 
Ameron ABC #4 because a 1D35 in our area has been using for 10 years and owners 
say it is closest thing to Micron 66 available in Canada. They insist it is 
closer to Micron 66 in its properties than to Micron CSC. 



All of the above are racing paints and that is also a consideration even though 
we now sail a Winnebago 



Mike 

Persistence 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 11:05 AM 
To: mike amirault; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint 




I had no complaints using Micron CSCused it for about 12 yearsa few 
years back, I had the opportunity to buy a few gallons of Micron 66 for $100 
per gallon. I read about its effectiveness in dealing with 'slime'.the 
biocides in it I guess which are not in CSC. And 2 1/2 gallons for $250, how 
could I refuse. 

AZURA logs close to 1,000nm per season and when the boat is hauled in October, 
it does not need a bottom cleaning and/or pressure wash. The bottom looks 
pretty much the same as it did when given a light coat of 66 in the Spring. I 
have used 66 for 3 seasons now.I dilute it about 10% to make rolling it on 
easier. I am usually applying antifouling paint around +10C and the little 
extra solvent makes rolling it on easier and it the paint seems to go farther. 
The boat could go back in the water this Spring with no attention to the 
bottom, however, it will get another diluted, light coat. 

A few other club members have witnessed the effectiveness of 66 on my boat and 
have switched from whatever they were using. They all get it when they drive to 
the USA. 

I asked the Binnacle here why they don't carry it..they said it too much 
trouble getting all the govt approvals because of the biocides in the 66. 

I don't race AZURA so it really doesn't matter what's on its bottom as long as 
it is not mussels and barnacles and other similar marine growth. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
CC 32 - 84 
Halifax, N. 


On 2015-03-10 10:39 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote: 





I am in the same marina as Dwight Veniot and I did use Amercoat #4 for several 
years. As an antifouling agent it works very well but I found it to be too 
ablative for my boat which sails about 1000nm per season. After a power wash in 
the fall, the hull would be nearly bare. Since that time, I have switched to 
micron CSC which holds up much better and sometimes just needs a brokers 
touch up rather than a full coat each year. Therefore, I think any cost savings 
you will get with the Amercoat are offset by justing with CSC. 





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Re: Stus-List bottom paint

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Yes, I find CSC equally effective. It does depend on where you keep your boat, 
though, some areas tend to attract more fuzz than others. This may be the 
case for Dwight who is located way up the head of St Margarets bay.___

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Practical Sailor has done extensive testing over the years.  They test a lot of 
paints in multiple locations.  Their results are comprehensive, but I still 
like to hear from others in my location with real-world experience.  Needless 
to say, VC Offshore is still the best paint for me.  Easy to clean and fast…   
Baltoplate is another racer’s favorite, but I find the dark color hard to 
clean.   You really can’t tell fouling with the dark grey color of the paint.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:19 PM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

 

There was a survey (more like an actual scientific experiment) done a few 
years back that involved actual testing of samples in several different 
locations. It might have been Sail magazine, but I am not sure. Anyway some of 
the paints were better than others, as one would expect, but the real take away 
for me was the huge difference in performance that some had in one location 
verses another. To be sure paint preference is a personal choice, but it is 
also a site specific choice, and whatever the locals are using would always be 
a good start. 

 

Steve Thomas

CC27 MKIII

Port Stanley, ON 

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I also was skeptical - they listed paints by manufacturer. So, Pettit has paint 
- about a dozen brands of all types, from ablative to hard as rocks. So, what 
does it mean that Pettit has an X rating?

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; joel. aronson 
  Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:07 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey


  Wonder how many respondents have tried more than one paint?  Surveys are so 
subjective.  It's like GEICO advertising a 97% satisfaction rating.  Is that 
current policyholders?  Google GEICO complaints and see what that brings up.  
:)

  I've used Micron CSC and Baltoplate on Touche' and like both.  Balto is 
faster; CSC required less maintenance.  Not surprising because that's their 
primary attributes, slipperyness or sluffing.

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

  On Jan 2, 2015 10:16 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Jamestown Distributors did a customer survey of bottom paints:


http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2014/11/10/bottom-paint-survey-results/



-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Agreed. I have to feel the hull with one hand and scrub with the other.  

Baltoplate has a high molybdenum content so it burnishes very well. 

Used to be a diver in my area that only cleaned bottoms at night with a light 
because he said he could see better. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 3, 2015, at 10:23 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Steve,
  
 Practical Sailor has done extensive testing over the years.  They test a lot 
 of paints in multiple locations.  Their results are comprehensive, but I 
 still like to hear from others in my location with real-world experience.  
 Needless to say, VC Offshore is still the best paint for me.  Easy to clean 
 and fast…   Baltoplate is another racer’s favorite, but I find the dark color 
 hard to clean.   You really can’t tell fouling with the dark grey color of 
 the paint.
  
 Jake
  
 Jake Brodersen
 “Midnight Mistress”
 CC 35 Mk-III
 Hampton VA
  
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve 
 Thomas via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:19 PM
 To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey
  
 There was a survey (more like an actual scientific experiment) done a few 
 years back that involved actual testing of samples in several different 
 locations. It might have been Sail magazine, but I am not sure. Anyway some 
 of the paints were better than others, as one would expect, but the real take 
 away for me was the huge difference in performance that some had in one 
 location verses another. To be sure paint preference is a personal choice, 
 but it is also a site specific choice, and whatever the locals are using 
 would always be a good start.
  
 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

There was a survey (more like an actual scientific experiment) done a few 
years back that involved actual testing of samples in several different 
locations. It might have been Sail magazine, but I am not sure. Anyway some of 
the paints were better than others, as one would expect, but the real take away 
for me was the huge difference in performance that some had in one location 
verses another. To be sure paint preference is a personal choice, but it is 
also a site specific choice, and whatever the locals are using would always be 
a good start. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; joel. aronson 
  Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:07 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey


  Wonder how many respondents have tried more than one paint?  Surveys are so 
subjective.  It's like GEICO advertising a 97% satisfaction rating.  Is that 
current policyholders?  Google GEICO complaints and see what that brings up.  
:)

  I've used Micron CSC and Baltoplate on Touche' and like both.  Balto is 
faster; CSC required less maintenance.  Not surprising because that's their 
primary attributes, slipperyness or sluffing.

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

  On Jan 2, 2015 10:16 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Jamestown Distributors did a customer survey of bottom paints:


http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2014/11/10/bottom-paint-survey-results/



-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Wonder how many respondents have tried more than one paint?  Surveys are so
subjective.  It's like GEICO advertising a 97% satisfaction rating.  Is
that current policyholders?  Google GEICO complaints and see what that
brings up.  :)

I've used Micron CSC and Baltoplate on Touche' and like both.  Balto is
faster; CSC required less maintenance.  Not surprising because that's their
primary attributes, slipperyness or sluffing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Jan 2, 2015 10:16 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Jamestown Distributors did a customer survey of bottom paints:

 http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2014/11/10/bottom-paint-survey-results/

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Stus-List Bottom paint survey

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Jamestown Distributors did a customer survey of bottom paints:

http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2014/11/10/bottom-paint-survey-results/

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Robert Abbott]

In the Spring of 2006, we used 'dry ice blasting' (as demonstrated in 
this video) to remove the bottom paint..job was completed in 4 
hours.hull cleaned right to the white gelcoat no further work 
required, other than a quick wipe down with a solvent to clean before 
applying the barrier coat(s)...all 7 of them.


Don't know why this isn't used more often?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEP-dPuhTKc



Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/04/15 12:29 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:

I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and energy, 
and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any reciprocating 
saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker and the blades 
last much longer than regular steel blades.

Here’s a video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk

Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days and 
the temperature becomes bearable.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Hoyt, Mike]

The only reason for DIY with scraper over soda blasting in my mind is $.  I 
have done two boats so far each under 9 ft beam and 27.5 LOA.  Is a fairly 
large job.  

 

RO Sander is very slow if you have an epoxy barrier coat to deal with and when 
you do the aggressive grit of the sandpaper needed to remove the barrier coat 
may (read that WILL) damage the underlying gel coat.  I used paint scrapers 
with rounded edges but only after using a gas powered pressure washer to take 
off all the loose stuff (and any ablative paint).   Followed that with RO 
sander with 120 grit for final polish.  Of course once all this is complete you 
need to long board sand it to make the bottom smooth and undo any high or low 
spots caused by ROS.

 

Yeah.  I took 50 hours to do a bottom job on a J/27 which is 27.5 LOA and 8.5 
beam.  This included complete strip, barrier coat application (only one layer) 
and then two coats AF paint (VC Offshore at the time).  My friends with the CC 
99 had their bottom soda blasted in three hours.  I paid less but hurt more

 

Mike

Nut Case

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 9:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

 

I have so far sanded half Peregrine's bottom with RO sanded and vac. Big job, 
but I bought a $150 mobile scaffold from Harbor Freight, which made the job a 
lot easier.

 

Andy

CC 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Apr 15, 2014, at 20:01, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:

Agree.  Cleaned my 36 footer's bottom using the orbital sander w vacuum 
and it is a huge job.  I was in between job opportunities so low on cash w a 
lot of free time so I did the Interprotect barrier coat too.  Did the last bits 
using wet sandpaper and had a hose clamped on a ladder lightly spraying the 
hull to wash it away.  Nice method for me, but EPA doesn't approve. Swore I'd 
have it soda blasted next time.

 

Last year I changed my bottom paint from VC-Offshore to Micron 66 and 
priced sodablasting; $1650.   Couldn't justify that, so I wetsanded my hull 
using a doodle bug and 3M scuff pads and wetsandpaper.  Didn't take all the 
paint off, just scuffed it for a good mechanical bond.  

 

Bottom maintenance trick:  When I haul the boat, I follow the guy with 
the pressure washer and doodle bug the whole bottom while it is hanging in the 
slings.  He takes about 20 minutes and I take maybe 40, so the guys go to break 
or lunch while I finish scrubbing and rinse.  All the water and bottom paint 
falls into their paint containment system and gets filtered, meeting EPA regs.  
 The boat looks ready to launch all winter.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

 





From: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:46:02 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

 

Somehow, I just don't get it. A friend is having his Morris 36 stripped 
at the yard where my boat sits (in the water). They went through some peel away 
stuff, then some random orbital (air powered) and then again with some finer 
sandpaper. It has been a couple of weeks.. Last year they had the soda 
blasting folks come in and after about four hours, the bottom of a larger boat 
was as smooth as it came out of the mold. I just don't get it. I'll ask my 
friend what he was thinking tomorrow at lunch After going through that mess 
and brute labor a few years ago, I would never do it again, no matter how 
'easy' the tool is - I just don't want to stoop under a boat holding any tool 
over my head, taking off toxic crap.

 

Gary

- Original Message -

From: Dr. Mark Bodnar mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:02 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

 


I know sucking in the dust from scraping the bottom is not good 
- but in the past I've used a random orbital sander with a fairly rough grit 
paper (and a mask)
Seems to go pretty quickly, or at least it did on my little 24'

 

Are scrapers preferred?  I'd have thought the finish would be 
much rougher.

 

Mark

 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 15/04/2014 2:54 PM, PME wrote:

Hi,

 

Scraping

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Rich Knowles]

Why remove a barrier coat?

Rich

 On Apr 16, 2014, at 9:29, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote:
 
 The only reason for DIY with scraper over soda blasting in my mind is $.  
 I have done two boats so far each under 9 ft beam and 27.5 LOA.  Is a fairly 
 large job. 
  
 RO Sander is very slow if you have an epoxy barrier coat to deal with and 
 when you do the aggressive grit of the sandpaper needed to remove the barrier 
 coat may (read that WILL) damage the underlying gel coat.  I used paint 
 scrapers with rounded edges but only after using a gas powered pressure 
 washer to take off all the loose stuff (and any ablative paint).   Followed 
 that with RO sander with 120 grit for final polish.  Of course once all this 
 is complete you need to long board sand it to make the bottom smooth and undo 
 any high or low spots caused by ROS.
  
 Yeah.  I took 50 hours to do a bottom job on a J/27 which is 27.5 LOA and 8.5 
 beam.  This included complete strip, barrier coat application (only one 
 layer) and then two coats AF paint (VC Offshore at the time).  My friends 
 with the CC 99 had their bottom soda blasted in three hours.  I paid less 
 but hurt more
  
 Mike
 Nut Case
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
 Burton
 Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 9:34 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
  
 I have so far sanded half Peregrine's bottom with RO sanded and vac. Big job, 
 but I bought a $150 mobile scaffold from Harbor Freight, which made the job a 
 lot easier.
  
 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine
 
 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett
 Newport, RI 
 USA02840
  
 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 +401 965-5260
 
 On Apr 15, 2014, at 20:01, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Agree.  Cleaned my 36 footer's bottom using the orbital sander w vacuum and 
 it is a huge job.  I was in between job opportunities so low on cash w a lot 
 of free time so I did the Interprotect barrier coat too.  Did the last bits 
 using wet sandpaper and had a hose clamped on a ladder lightly spraying the 
 hull to wash it away.  Nice method for me, but EPA doesn't approve. Swore I'd 
 have it soda blasted next time.
  
 Last year I changed my bottom paint from VC-Offshore to Micron 66 and priced 
 sodablasting; $1650.   Couldn't justify that, so I wetsanded my hull using a 
 doodle bug and 3M scuff pads and wetsandpaper.  Didn't take all the paint 
 off, just scuffed it for a good mechanical bond.  
  
 Bottom maintenance trick:  When I haul the boat, I follow the guy with the 
 pressure washer and doodle bug the whole bottom while it is hanging in the 
 slings.  He takes about 20 minutes and I take maybe 40, so the guys go to 
 break or lunch while I finish scrubbing and rinse.  All the water and bottom 
 paint falls into their paint containment system and gets filtered, meeting 
 EPA regs.   The boat looks ready to launch all winter.
  
  
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Atlantic City, NJ
  
 From: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:46:02 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
  
 Somehow, I just don't get it. A friend is having his Morris 36 stripped at 
 the yard where my boat sits (in the water). They went through some peel away 
 stuff, then some random orbital (air powered) and then again with some finer 
 sandpaper. It has been a couple of weeks.. Last year they had the soda 
 blasting folks come in and after about four hours, the bottom of a larger 
 boat was as smooth as it came out of the mold. I just don't get it. I'll ask 
 my friend what he was thinking tomorrow at lunch After going through that 
 mess and brute labor a few years ago, I would never do it again, no matter 
 how 'easy' the tool is - I just don't want to stoop under a boat holding any 
 tool over my head, taking off toxic crap.
  
 Gary
 - Original Message -
 From: Dr. Mark Bodnar
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 2:02 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
  
 
 I know sucking in the dust from scraping the bottom is not good - but in the 
 past I've used a random orbital sander with a fairly rough grit paper (and a 
 mask)
 Seems to go pretty quickly, or at least it did on my little 24'
  
 Are scrapers preferred?  I'd have thought the finish would be much rougher.
  
 Mark
  
 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana
 On 15/04/2014 2:54 PM, PME wrote:
 Hi,
  
 Scraping off bottom paint is a pain with a cheap steel scraper.  Once has to 
 nearly sharpen the blade ever other second.   This year I discover using a 
 good tool really matters.
  
 Don't use a steel scraper, pay the $23 and get a tungsten carbide scraper.  
 One blade will last a whole side of the boat or more.  I was amazed.
  
 Here is a link to a scraper I used on a 38LF.  Bahco 665 Carbide Edged 
 Heavy-Duty

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Neil Andersen]

Rich,

I am very impressed.  Can you provide more information on the scrapper?

BTW - for my ablative paint covered bottom, I use a 3M pad (fairly coarse) on a 
sanding pole so I don't have to crawl around on the ground so much.  My problem 
is build-up at the water line since before I owned her.

Neil Andersen
CC32 FoxFire, Worton Creek, MD

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 5:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

Thanks Bob! We'll see. 

Rich

 On Apr 15, 2014, at 18:21, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote:
 
 Rich:
 
 I think you should get a patent on this ASAP..with some luck, I will 
 witness it in action.
 
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On 2014/04/15 12:29 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
 I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
 bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
 accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and 
 energy, and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any 
 reciprocating saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker 
 and the blades last much longer than regular steel blades.
 
 Here’s a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk
 
 Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days 
 and the temperature becomes bearable.
 
 Rich Knowles
 INDIGO LF38
 Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 ___
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  

  I'm not looking to remove everything - I believe the boat
  currently has an ablative coating, I just want to clean off some
  of the loose areas, and make it ready for a new layer. On my
  Mirage 24 I would do a quick sanding with ~80-120 grit paper on
  the RO sander -- I did the whole bottom in less than 2 hrs. Then
  rolled on the new bottom coat the next morning and dropped her in
  the water.
  
  Maybe I'm overdoing the annual bottom maintenance? Mention of the
  "Doodle bug" - online search I see it is a pole sander. I thought
  I needed to clean things off more than that? Mind you my history
  is painting houses to get through school - not all that applicable
  to boat bottoms!
  
  Any suggestions from the list on which bottom coating?
  I put on Interlux Bottomkote XXX last year -- seemed to do pretty
  well - never had anyone touch the hull all summer and only had
  minor growth in the fall. Tempted to bump up this year to one of
  the "better" options, but really no idea other than price.
  
  INTERLUX FIBERGLASS BOTTOMKOTE ACT -
GALLON  -- $193/G
  NTERLUX FIBERGLASS BOTTOMKOTE - GALLON
-- $162/G
  INTERLUX BOTTOMKOTE XXX ANTIFOULING -
GALLON -- $112/G
  PETTIT HORIZON ABLATIVE BLUE GALLON
  --$180/G
  
  (Readily avail here at the Binnacle) 
  
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 16/04/2014 9:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
The
only reason for DIY with scraper over soda blasting in my
mind is $. I have done two boats so far each under 9 ft
beam and 27.5 LOA. Is a fairly large job. 

RO
Sander is very slow if you have an epoxy barrier coat to
deal with and when you do the aggressive grit of the
sandpaper needed to remove the barrier coat may (read that
WILL) damage the underlying gel coat. I used paint scrapers
with rounded edges but only after using a gas powered
pressure washer to take off all the loose stuff (and any
ablative paint). Followed that with RO sander with 120
grit for final polish. Of course once all this is complete
you need to long board sand it to make the bottom smooth and
undo any high or low spots caused by ROS.

Yeah.
I took 50 hours to do a bottom job on a J/27 which is 27.5
LOA and 8.5 beam. This included complete strip, barrier
coat application (only one layer) and then two coats AF
paint (VC Offshore at the time). My friends with the
CC 99 had their bottom soda blasted in three hours. I
paid less but hurt more

Mike
Nut
Case



  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
  Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 9:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
    Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
  



  I have so far sanded half Peregrine's
bottom with RO sanded and vac. Big job, but I bought a $150
mobile scaffold from Harbor Freight, which made the job a
lot easier.


  


  Andy


  CC 40


  Peregrine

Andrew Burton
  
61 W Narragansett
  
  
Newport, RI
  
  
USA  02840
  
  

  
  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  
+401 965-5260
  


  
On Apr 15, 2014, at 20:01, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
wrote:


  

  
Agree.
Cleaned my 36 footer's bottom using the orbital
sander w vacuum and it is a huge job. I was in
between job opportunities so low on cash w a lot of
free time so I did the Interprotect barrier coat
too. Did the last bits using wet sandpaper and had
a hose clamped on a ladder lightly spraying the hull
to wash it away. Nice method for me, but EPA
doesn't approve. Swore I'd have it soda blasted next
time.
  
  

  
  
Last
year I changed my bottom pa

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Hoyt, Mike]

Mark

 

If ablative than use an electric pressure washer and maybe a long
handled scrub brush.  Ablatives can be applied over other ablatives
usually

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2014 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

 


I'm not looking to remove everything - I believe the boat currently has
an ablative coating, I just want to clean off some of the loose areas,
and make it ready for a new layer.  On my Mirage 24 I would do a quick
sanding with ~80-120 grit paper on the RO sander -- I did the whole
bottom in less than 2 hrs.  Then rolled on the new bottom coat the next
morning and dropped her in the water.

Maybe I'm overdoing the annual bottom maintenance?  Mention of the
Doodle bug - online search I see it is a pole sander.  I thought I
needed to clean things off more than that?  Mind you my history is
painting houses to get through school - not all that applicable to boat
bottoms!

Any suggestions from the list on which bottom coating?
I put on Interlux Bottomkote XXX last year -- seemed to do pretty well -
never had anyone touch the hull all summer and only had minor growth in
the fall.  Tempted to bump up this year to one of the better options,
but really no idea other than price.

INTERLUX FIBERGLASS BOTTOMKOTE ACT - GALLON
http://ca.binnacle.com/p289/INTERLUX-FIBERGLASS-BOTTOMKOTE-ACT-GALLON/p
roduct_info.html   -- $193/G
NTERLUX FIBERGLASS BOTTOMKOTE - GALLON
http://ca.binnacle.com/p260/INTERLUX-FIBERGLASS-BOTTOMKOTE-GALLON/produ
ct_info.html -- $162/G
INTERLUX BOTTOMKOTE XXX ANTIFOULING - GALLON
http://ca.binnacle.com/p263/INTERLUX-BOTTOMKOTE-XXX-ANTIFOULING-GALLON/
product_info.html -- $112/G
PETTIT HORIZON ABLATIVE BLUE GALLON
http://ca.binnacle.com/p9261/PETTIT-HORIZON-ABLATIVE-BLUE-GALLON/produc
t_info.html --$180/G

(Readily avail here at the Binnacle) 

Mark



 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 16/04/2014 9:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:

The only reason for DIY with scraper over soda blasting in my
mind is $.  I have done two boats so far each under 9 ft beam and
27.5 LOA.  Is a fairly large job.  

 

RO Sander is very slow if you have an epoxy barrier coat to deal
with and when you do the aggressive grit of the sandpaper needed to
remove the barrier coat may (read that WILL) damage the underlying gel
coat.  I used paint scrapers with rounded edges but only after using a
gas powered pressure washer to take off all the loose stuff (and any
ablative paint).   Followed that with RO sander with 120 grit for final
polish.  Of course once all this is complete you need to long board sand
it to make the bottom smooth and undo any high or low spots caused by
ROS.

 

Yeah.  I took 50 hours to do a bottom job on a J/27 which is
27.5 LOA and 8.5 beam.  This included complete strip, barrier coat
application (only one layer) and then two coats AF paint (VC Offshore at
the time).  My friends with the CC 99 had their bottom soda blasted in
three hours.  I paid less but hurt more

 

Mike

Nut Case

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2014 9:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

 

I have so far sanded half Peregrine's bottom with RO sanded and
vac. Big job, but I bought a $150 mobile scaffold from Harbor Freight,
which made the job a lot easier.

 

Andy

CC 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Apr 15, 2014, at 20:01, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
wrote:

Agree.  Cleaned my 36 footer's bottom using the orbital
sander w vacuum and it is a huge job.  I was in between job
opportunities so low on cash w a lot of free time so I did the
Interprotect barrier coat too.  Did the last bits using wet sandpaper
and had a hose clamped on a ladder lightly spraying the hull to wash it
away.  Nice method for me, but EPA doesn't approve. Swore I'd have it
soda blasted next time.

 

Last year I changed my bottom paint from VC-Offshore to
Micron 66 and priced sodablasting; $1650.   Couldn't justify that, so I
wetsanded my hull using a doodle bug and 3M scuff pads and wetsandpaper.
Didn't take all the paint off, just scuffed it for a good mechanical
bond.  

 

Bottom maintenance trick:  When I haul the boat, I
follow the guy with the pressure washer and doodle bug the whole bottom
while it is hanging in the slings.  He takes about 20 minutes

Stus-List Bottom paint

[Robert Abbott]

Mark:

Asking to one of the 'better' options of bottom paint is like asking us 
what is the 'best' beer.  Everyone will have a preference for similar 
and/or different reasons.


Personally, I prefer an ablative paint, if for no other reason, the ease 
of maintenance.   I used Interlux Micron CSC  for about 15 yearsnot 
the cheapest paint on the market and there are paints probably just as 
effective at less cost.  It just happened to be available at the 
Binnacle on my drive to the club/boat. Never used anything more than wet 
sand with a pole sander with the Micron CSC just to prep for a new coat.


Two years ago, I switched to Micron 66.best paint I have ever 
used.incredible stuffonly do a pressure wash in the Fall and it 
really does not need it but it is a part of our haulout package at the 
club.have not put sand paper to itno need to.too bad it is 
not sold in Canada.


Long ago, a local sailor here said to me that when he went to buy paint, 
he would choose the gallon that 'weighed the most'..he said that 
meant that the heavier weighing paint has more copper oxide and thus the 
best antifouling properties.  And this sailor built his own 40' boat in 
his backyard and kicked ass when racing.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
H, N.S.




On 2014/04/16 11:15 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


I'm not looking to remove everything - I believe the boat currently 
has an ablative coating, I just want to clean off some of the loose 
areas, and make it ready for a new layer.  On my Mirage 24 I would do 
a quick sanding with ~80-120 grit paper on the RO sander -- I did the 
whole bottom in less than 2 hrs. Then rolled on the new bottom coat 
the next morning and dropped her in the water.


Maybe I'm overdoing the annual bottom maintenance?  Mention of the 
Doodle bug - online search I see it is a pole sander.  I thought I 
needed to clean things off more than that?  Mind you my history is 
painting houses to get through school - not all that applicable to 
boat bottoms!


Any suggestions from the list on which bottom coating?
I put on Interlux Bottomkote XXX last year -- seemed to do pretty well 
- never had anyone touch the hull all summer and only had minor growth 
in the fall.  Tempted to bump up this year to one of the better 
options, but really no idea other than price.


INTERLUX FIBERGLASS BOTTOMKOTE ACT - GALLON 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p289/INTERLUX-FIBERGLASS-BOTTOMKOTE-ACT-GALLON/product_info.html  
-- $193/G
NTERLUX FIBERGLASS BOTTOMKOTE - GALLON 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p260/INTERLUX-FIBERGLASS-BOTTOMKOTE-GALLON/product_info.html 
-- $162/G
INTERLUX BOTTOMKOTE XXX ANTIFOULING - GALLON 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p263/INTERLUX-BOTTOMKOTE-XXX-ANTIFOULING-GALLON/product_info.html
-- $112/G
PETTIT HORIZON ABLATIVE BLUE GALLON 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p9261/PETTIT-HORIZON-ABLATIVE-BLUE-GALLON/product_info.html 
--$180/G


(Readily avail here at the Binnacle)

Mark
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana



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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Wally Bryant]

Get a patent.

Wal



Rich wrote:

snip I developed this scraper which will fit in any reciprocating saw and uses a 
carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker and the blades last much longer than regular 
steel blades.  snip

Here’s a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk



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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Fair, Mike]

More details please.

Thanks,

Mike Fair
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 11:30 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and energy, 
and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any reciprocating 
saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker and the blades 
last much longer than regular steel blades.

Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk

Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days and 
the temperature becomes bearable.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Rich Knowles]

Coming in the next couple of weeks. I'm in development mode waiting on others. 
Gauging interest at this point. Thanks. 

Rich

 On Apr 15, 2014, at 10:24, Fair, Mike mike.f...@mckesson.com wrote:
 
 More details please.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Mike Fair
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
 Knowles
 Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 11:30 PM
 To: cnc-list Cnc-List
 Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
 
 I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
 bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
 accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and 
 energy, and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any 
 reciprocating saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker 
 and the blades last much longer than regular steel blades.
 
 Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk
 
 Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days 
 and the temperature becomes bearable.
 
 Rich Knowles
 INDIGO LF38
 Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Bill Bina]

This option may give you a head start, and require little or no 
fabrication. There are even a few variations on a scraper blade 
already made that might do the job pretty well.


http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=40q=multitool

Bill Bina


On 4/15/2014 9:24 AM, Fair, Mike wrote:

More details please.

Thanks,

Mike Fair
  


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 11:30 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and energy, 
and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any reciprocating 
saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker and the blades 
last much longer than regular steel blades.

Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk

Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days and 
the temperature becomes bearable.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Rich Knowles]

Thanks Bill. Got those tools and they are good but comparatively slow. 

Rich

 On Apr 15, 2014, at 10:34, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 
 This option may give you a head start, and require little or no fabrication. 
 There are even a few variations on a scraper blade already made that might 
 do the job pretty well.
 
 http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=40q=multitool
 
 Bill Bina
 
 
 On 4/15/2014 9:24 AM, Fair, Mike wrote:
 More details please.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Mike Fair
  
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
 Knowles
 Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 11:30 PM
 To: cnc-list Cnc-List
 Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
 
 I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
 bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
 accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and 
 energy, and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any 
 reciprocating saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker 
 and the blades last much longer than regular steel blades.
 
 Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk
 
 Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days 
 and the temperature becomes bearable.
 
 Rich Knowles
 INDIGO LF38
 Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[PME]

Hi,

Scraping off bottom paint is a pain with a cheap steel scraper.  Once has to 
nearly sharpen the blade ever other second.   This year I discover using a good 
tool really matters.

Don't use a steel scraper, pay the $23 and get a tungsten carbide scraper.  One 
blade will last a whole side of the boat or more.  I was amazed.

Here is a link to a scraper I used on a 38LF.  Bahco 665 Carbide Edged 
Heavy-Duty Paint Scraper


http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Carbide-Edged-Heavy-Duty-Scraper/dp/B0001IX7S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1397584146sr=8-1keywords=scraper+bah


-
Paul E.
1981 CC 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



On Apr 15, 2014, at 10:55 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Message: 4
 Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2014 00:29:43 -0300
 From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca
 To: cnc-list Cnc-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint removal
 Message-ID: 2ef7ca9a-bfa1-4c91-9820-3dfea7c86...@sailpower.ca
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
 
 I got adventurous this year and decided to remove as much of the existing 
 bottom paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that have 
 accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take a lot of time and 
 energy, and sharpening. I developed this scraper which will fit in any 
 reciprocating saw and uses a carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker 
 and the blades last much longer than regular steel blades.
 
 Here?s a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk
 
 Now, all I have to do is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days 
 and the temperature becomes bearable.
 
 Rich Knowles
 INDIGO LF38
 Halifax, NS.
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint removal

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  

  I know sucking in the dust from scraping the bottom is not good -
  but in the past I've used a random orbital sander with a fairly
  rough grit paper (and a mask)
  Seems to go pretty quickly, or at least it did on my little 24'
  
  Are scrapers preferred? I'd have thought the finish would be much
  rougher.
  
  Mark
  
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 15/04/2014 2:54 PM, PME wrote:


  
  Hi,
  
  
  Scraping off bottom paint is a pain with a cheap steel
scraper. Once has to nearly sharpen the blade ever other
second.  This year I discover using a good tool really matters.
 
  
  
  Don't use a steel scraper, pay the $23 and get a tungsten
carbide scraper. One blade will last a whole side of the boat
or more. I was amazed.
  
  
  Here is a link to a scraper I used on a 38LF. Bahco 665
Carbide Edged Heavy-Duty Paint Scraper
  
  
  
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Carbide-Edged-Heavy-Duty-Scraper/dp/B0001IX7S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1397584146sr=8-1keywords=scraper+bah
  
  
  

  -
Paul E.
1981 CC 38
  Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
  

  



  On Apr 15, 2014, at 10:55 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
wrote:
  
  Message: 4
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2014
  00:29:43 -0300
From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List
  Bottom paint removal
Message-ID: 2ef7ca9a-bfa1-4c91-9820-3dfea7c86...@sailpower.ca
Content-Type:
  text/plain; charset=windows-1252

I got adventurous this
  year and decided to remove as much of the existing bottom
  paint as possible. There are many layers on the boat that
  have accumulated over time. Ordinary manual scrapers take
  a lot of time and energy, and sharpening. I developed this
  scraper which will fit in any reciprocating saw and uses a
  carbide blade. It is a lot easier and quicker and the
  blades last much longer than regular steel blades.

Here?s a video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2lsNuCrfgk

Now, all I have to do
  is get at it as soon as the rain stops for a few days and
  the temperature becomes bearable.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


  


  
  
  
  
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