Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-24 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

YEP  That is how they work.

You can see one in action next weekend.  (5 days ending on Labor Day) at 
Midwest Old Settlers and Threshers Association annual reunion in Mt. 
Pleasant IA.  Allow at least 2 days if you go.   It was called the 
greatest steam show on earth 50 years ago, and probably still is.   Also 
sawmill, veneer mill, narrow ga railroad, electric trolleys, including 
one from Montreal (for our token Canuks)  probably 100 or so steam 
traction engines up to  110 HP Case, stationary steam engines, up to the 
Marshall.  There are also antique tractors, trucks and cars, the log 
village, the pioneer village, train robberies and tons of other stuff to 
do and see.   Of course there are threshing, mowing, binding, plowing, 
and baling demonstrations.


https://www.oldthreshers.org/files/Saturday%20Program%202019.pdf

Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote on 8/22/19 7:46 PM:

  I've had the opportunity to watch a good shingle mill in action belted to a 
Farmall Super MD. I forget exactly but the sawblade was probably 20-24" in 
diameter. The cool thing about this one is that it automatically advanced the wood 
for the next cut. I *think* it alternated cuts so the wood stayed square every 2 
shingles. This one used a chunk of wood like a piece of firewood standing on end, so 
it was already cut to length.
Its been probably 9 years since I saw that one in action. My buddy Steve has on 
just like it but I've never seen it running. That reminds me, I need to finally 
finish up the video of Steve's Metz & Weiss semi-diesel engine...
-Curt

   



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-22 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 I've had the opportunity to watch a good shingle mill in action belted to a 
Farmall Super MD. I forget exactly but the sawblade was probably 20-24" in 
diameter. The cool thing about this one is that it automatically advanced the 
wood for the next cut. I *think* it alternated cuts so the wood stayed square 
every 2 shingles. This one used a chunk of wood like a piece of firewood 
standing on end, so it was already cut to length.
Its been probably 9 years since I saw that one in action. My buddy Steve has on 
just like it but I've never seen it running. That reminds me, I need to finally 
finish up the video of Steve's Metz & Weiss semi-diesel engine...
-Curt

On Thursday, August 22, 2019, 4:14:54 PM EDT, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 On 22/08/2019 2:14 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
> Shingle mill is just a horizontal sawmill with shorter bolts.   Oh, 
> and thick and thin is desired, not the product of a wornout mill and a 
> mediocre sawyer.   THe old guy who sawed most of my logs was a good 
> sawyer with a worn out mill.


My father built his own shingle mill not long before his demise. I 
assume it went with the rest of the mill equipment when he sold it.

It was a small simple unit that required one to push the block of wood 
through the saw blade. There was a sort of toggle that shifted the block 
back and forth to cut fairly uniform angled shingles. I think he had it 
set so that it cut a bit thicker on one direction than the other so that 
the shingles, when nailed on, were staggered.

I never ran it or actually saw him run it as by the time he built it, I 
had moved away. I remember him proudly showing me the contraption but 
not much more about it.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-22 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 22/08/2019 2:14 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Shingle mill is just a horizontal sawmill with shorter bolts.   Oh, 
and thick and thin is desired, not the product of a wornout mill and a 
mediocre sawyer.   THe old guy who sawed most of my logs was a good 
sawyer with a worn out mill.



My father built his own shingle mill not long before his demise. I 
assume it went with the rest of the mill equipment when he sold it.


It was a small simple unit that required one to push the block of wood 
through the saw blade. There was a sort of toggle that shifted the block 
back and forth to cut fairly uniform angled shingles. I think he had it 
set so that it cut a bit thicker on one direction than the other so that 
the shingles, when nailed on, were staggered.


I never ran it or actually saw him run it as by the time he built it, I 
had moved away. I remember him proudly showing me the contraption but 
not much more about it.


Randy


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-22 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
Shingle mill is just a horizontal sawmill with shorter bolts.   Oh, and 
thick and thin is desired, not the product of a wornout mill and a 
mediocre sawyer.   THe old guy who sawed most of my logs was a good 
sawyer with a worn out mill.


Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote on 8/21/19 3:35 PM:

On 21/08/2019 3:16 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Yep, it's a real lesson in the power of centrifugal force multiplied by
speed.
Sounds like you Dad had it all dialed in. My Grandfather was the one who
got me to doing it. He had "Skills" that few had, in a bunch of old 
school

things.
Yes, my father had grown up with it. His father had a shingle mill. I 
don't know whether they sawed lumber as well or if it was just shingles.





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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-22 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
i'd guess the regular poulan is junk.  never had one, but that is the 
reputation.   The poulan pro are ok for home farm use in my experience.


Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote on 8/20/19 12:02 PM:

A few years ago I bought a regular poulan the yellow one. It was a turd and I 
wore myself out just trying to start it. Took it back to Lowe’s and got the 
green pro one. It has been great for my needs







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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 21/08/2019 3:16 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Yep, it's a real lesson in the power of centrifugal force multiplied by
speed.
Sounds like you Dad had it all dialed in. My Grandfather was the one who
got me to doing it. He had "Skills" that few had, in a bunch of old school
things.
Yes, my father had grown up with it. His father had a shingle mill. I 
don't know whether they sawed lumber as well or if it was just shingles.


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Yep, it's a real lesson in the power of centrifugal force multiplied by
speed.
Sounds like you Dad had it all dialed in. My Grandfather was the one who
got me to doing it. He had "Skills" that few had, in a bunch of old school
things.

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 1:01 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 21/08/2019 2:47 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > Yes, the teeth are replaceable, takes a special tool and practice to set
> > the new or old teeth so they run to make a clean cut with the correct
> tooth
> > pitch and sequence. Then, after sharpening each tooth, you have to set
> them
> > all to the same height so the saw cuts correctly. On an 80 inch blade,
> > you'll want to pack lunch. It takes a while, and if you are cutting old
> > growth hardwood with high dollar value, you want cuts to be clean, clear,
> > straight, and near perfect, or your money goes up the sawdust chute.
> > If the blade is done right, you have all the teeth tracking and zero
> tooth
> > marks on the plank. Well, that was the goal, anyway.
> >
> > Just did a search and found they are still available, as is the insertion
> > tool...
> > http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Pages/Items/08999F.aspx
> >
>
> Yes, that is the sort of thing that we used as well. Our blade was
> smaller - I think about 48 inches.
>
> I cannot put the sharpening and setting on my resume. My father always
> did it. I sometimes watched but he was very particular about it as he
> was not wanting the blade to throw teeth at him. I remember him cleaning
> the blade and oiling the saw blade before using the tool to sort of roll
> the insert and the new tooth into the gullet of the blade.
>
> One of the local fellows who ran a marina for most of his life had a
> desire to have a saw mill and bought a portable unit in his retirement
> years. The first time that he changed the teeth, he did not do a good
> job of doing so and it threw a number of teeth at him. None hit him,
> thank fully but it sure scared him.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 21/08/2019 2:47 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, the teeth are replaceable, takes a special tool and practice to set
the new or old teeth so they run to make a clean cut with the correct tooth
pitch and sequence. Then, after sharpening each tooth, you have to set them
all to the same height so the saw cuts correctly. On an 80 inch blade,
you'll want to pack lunch. It takes a while, and if you are cutting old
growth hardwood with high dollar value, you want cuts to be clean, clear,
straight, and near perfect, or your money goes up the sawdust chute.
If the blade is done right, you have all the teeth tracking and zero tooth
marks on the plank. Well, that was the goal, anyway.

Just did a search and found they are still available, as is the insertion
tool...
http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Pages/Items/08999F.aspx



Yes, that is the sort of thing that we used as well. Our blade was 
smaller - I think about 48 inches.


I cannot put the sharpening and setting on my resume. My father always 
did it. I sometimes watched but he was very particular about it as he 
was not wanting the blade to throw teeth at him. I remember him cleaning 
the blade and oiling the saw blade before using the tool to sort of roll 
the insert and the new tooth into the gullet of the blade.


One of the local fellows who ran a marina for most of his life had a 
desire to have a saw mill and bought a portable unit in his retirement 
years. The first time that he changed the teeth, he did not do a good 
job of doing so and it threw a number of teeth at him. None hit him, 
thank fully but it sure scared him.



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Yes, the teeth are replaceable, takes a special tool and practice to set
the new or old teeth so they run to make a clean cut with the correct tooth
pitch and sequence. Then, after sharpening each tooth, you have to set them
all to the same height so the saw cuts correctly. On an 80 inch blade,
you'll want to pack lunch. It takes a while, and if you are cutting old
growth hardwood with high dollar value, you want cuts to be clean, clear,
straight, and near perfect, or your money goes up the sawdust chute.
If the blade is done right, you have all the teeth tracking and zero tooth
marks on the plank. Well, that was the goal, anyway.

Just did a search and found they are still available, as is the insertion
tool...
http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Pages/Items/08999F.aspx

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 12:02 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 21/08/2019 1:16 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > I think I may be one of the few left that still know how to sharpen and
> set
> > the teeth in a round blade mill... I'll have to add a line in my CV to
> > include that.. ha..
> >
> Were they replaceable teeth?
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 21/08/2019 1:16 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

I think I may be one of the few left that still know how to sharpen and set
the teeth in a round blade mill... I'll have to add a line in my CV to
include that.. ha..


Were they replaceable teeth?

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Thanks for your interest and sharing your family saw mill history.
The family mill ran for 5 generations in the SW Missouri hardwood region.
Started out as a water wheel powered mill, why back when that was the only
power available,
Early business also included a grist mill operation to grind flour. I still
own the grist wheels, which are about 5 ft in diameter and 3 ft thick...
and no, I'm not moving them.. haha..
That mill moved to steam power, then stationary engine power, finally,
electric. While I was at home, we had 3 mills, all round blade type, a
large, a medium, and smaller one for finish work. Late in life, Dad added a
band saw mill, but he really didn't care for it..
Most of what we harvested and milled was Black Walnut, Oak, Hickory, some
old growth cedar, and some other native specialty woods like sassafras and
others.. Almost all the output went overseas to piano builders in Japan.
They paid the big bucks so were customers of choice. Some went to high
grade furniture makers...
I think I may be one of the few left that still know how to sharpen and set
the teeth in a round blade mill... I'll have to add a line in my CV to
include that.. ha..

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 10:02 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> What sort of sawmill did your family have?
>
> My father had a small mill and I worked in it as soon as I was big
> enough to do so (about 60 years ago). Initially, I set the second dog on
> the carriage and then later was the guy who picked the boards off as
> they went through the saw (tail sawyer).  My father was always the sawyer.
> We were not much of a commercial operation. It was mainly to supply my
> father with lumber he used in construction. We built docks, boathouses,
> cottages etc and he liked the natural local cedar as it was rot resistant.
> We had a planer but seldom used it. Most of what we produced in terms of
> planking and square timbers were fine in their rough sawn condition
> given what we used them for.
> We normally logged some in the winter and sawed it in the spring and
> summer as we needed it.
> We did do some pine and spruce as well but very little hardwood - a bit
> of ash- but hardwood is not all that common in NW Ontario.
>
> On 21/08/2019 11:52 AM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> >  From experience, I agree with Mitch on direction of file motion.
> > To hand file well, you need to have a good mental picture of the "perfect
> > cutting edge" . When you have that, your hand/file motion will follow to
> > achieve that perfect edge.
> > Leaving a file burr on the cutting edge is not good, if your file
> direction
> > and pressure is smooth and straight you will not leave a burr.
> > Do a search for youtube video postings on "how to hand file a chain saw"
> > and you will pull up several selections of some rather crusty guys who
> are
> > old school saw men who are much better at sharping chain than they are at
> > making video, but quickly you will see the skill points to do it well.
> > Then, practice makes perfect.
> > For myself, part of growing up was work in the family owned sawmill and
> > lumber operation, so being able to keep the saw sharp, miles away from
> > electric grinders was a necessary skill.
> > One tip, cut a slot in a stump that will hold the saw by the bar...
> makes a
> > solid file surface much better than trying to "free hand cut" with the
> saw
> > setting loose. In the you tube videos you will see most all use a vice to
> > hold the blade, that works also.
> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

What sort of sawmill did your family have?

My father had a small mill and I worked in it as soon as I was big 
enough to do so (about 60 years ago). Initially, I set the second dog on 
the carriage and then later was the guy who picked the boards off as 
they went through the saw (tail sawyer).  My father was always the sawyer.
We were not much of a commercial operation. It was mainly to supply my 
father with lumber he used in construction. We built docks, boathouses, 
cottages etc and he liked the natural local cedar as it was rot resistant.
We had a planer but seldom used it. Most of what we produced in terms of 
planking and square timbers were fine in their rough sawn condition 
given what we used them for.
We normally logged some in the winter and sawed it in the spring and 
summer as we needed it.
We did do some pine and spruce as well but very little hardwood - a bit 
of ash- but hardwood is not all that common in NW Ontario.


On 21/08/2019 11:52 AM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

 From experience, I agree with Mitch on direction of file motion.
To hand file well, you need to have a good mental picture of the "perfect
cutting edge" . When you have that, your hand/file motion will follow to
achieve that perfect edge.
Leaving a file burr on the cutting edge is not good, if your file direction
and pressure is smooth and straight you will not leave a burr.
Do a search for youtube video postings on "how to hand file a chain saw"
and you will pull up several selections of some rather crusty guys who are
old school saw men who are much better at sharping chain than they are at
making video, but quickly you will see the skill points to do it well.
Then, practice makes perfect.
For myself, part of growing up was work in the family owned sawmill and
lumber operation, so being able to keep the saw sharp, miles away from
electric grinders was a necessary skill.
One tip, cut a slot in a stump that will hold the saw by the bar... makes a
solid file surface much better than trying to "free hand cut" with the saw
setting loose. In the you tube videos you will see most all use a vice to
hold the blade, that works also.




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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-21 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
>From experience, I agree with Mitch on direction of file motion.
To hand file well, you need to have a good mental picture of the "perfect
cutting edge" . When you have that, your hand/file motion will follow to
achieve that perfect edge.
Leaving a file burr on the cutting edge is not good, if your file direction
and pressure is smooth and straight you will not leave a burr.
Do a search for youtube video postings on "how to hand file a chain saw"
and you will pull up several selections of some rather crusty guys who are
old school saw men who are much better at sharping chain than they are at
making video, but quickly you will see the skill points to do it well.
Then, practice makes perfect.
For myself, part of growing up was work in the family owned sawmill and
lumber operation, so being able to keep the saw sharp, miles away from
electric grinders was a necessary skill.
One tip, cut a slot in a stump that will hold the saw by the bar... makes a
solid file surface much better than trying to "free hand cut" with the saw
setting loose. In the you tube videos you will see most all use a vice to
hold the blade, that works also.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 8:09 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> There's a microscopic bent ridge of metal at the downstream edge of the
> filing motion.
> I like to have it on the trailing edge, some people like to have it on the
> leading edge hoping it'll wear off quickly, some people like you don't
> care. But I figure it's important to make every aspect possible of the
> filing action identical on the left cutters and the right cutters.
> Mitch.
>
> PS: for casual cutting, a Poulan Wild Thing, plated piston, plain cylinder
> and all, is perfectly adequate. It won't last 200 hours of actual cutting
> time, but how many seconds does it take to make a cut? But saws like that
> tend to come with too long bars for the horsepower, and make up for it by
> using a skip tooth chain. Generally speaking, a cheap skip tooth safety
> chain is slow cutting, but my Dad's ten year old WildThang does OK the few
> times I've used it.
>
>
> > On August 20, 2019 at 7:52 PM Curt Raymond  wrote:
> >
> >
> > I agree with everything Mitch wrote. Additionally a file with a guide
> can help us newbies.I'd been told that it didn't matter if you went front
> to back on the teeth or back to front. I think that's probably true as long
> as you always do it the same way...
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
There's a microscopic bent ridge of metal at the downstream edge of the filing 
motion. 
I like to have it on the trailing edge, some people like to have it on the 
leading edge hoping it'll wear off quickly, some people like you don't care. 
But I figure it's important to make every aspect possible of the filing action 
identical on the left cutters and the right cutters. 
Mitch. 

PS: for casual cutting, a Poulan Wild Thing, plated piston, plain cylinder and 
all, is perfectly adequate. It won't last 200 hours of actual cutting time, but 
how many seconds does it take to make a cut? But saws like that tend to come 
with too long bars for the horsepower, and make up for it by  using a skip 
tooth chain. Generally speaking, a cheap skip tooth safety chain is slow 
cutting, but my Dad's ten year old WildThang does OK the few times I've used 
it. 


> On August 20, 2019 at 7:52 PM Curt Raymond  wrote:
> 
> 
> I agree with everything Mitch wrote. Additionally a file with a guide can 
> help us newbies.I'd been told that it didn't matter if you went front to back 
> on the teeth or back to front. I think that's probably true as long as you 
> always do it the same way...

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I got one of their super cheap 4 1/2" grinders and one of the 6". I think 
they're the same motor inside, the 6" is under powered but both have been 
troopers and done a surprising amount of work.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 6:48 AM, OK Don via Mercedes 
wrote:   It might be the same tool, but for $10, I'll stick with the one that 
was
reviewed. My experience with Harbor Freight electric tools has not been
good overall.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 5:11 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> How about Harbor Freight?
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=chain%20saw%20sharpener
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I agree with everything Mitch wrote. Additionally a file with a guide can help 
us newbies.I'd been told that it didn't matter if you went front to back on the 
teeth or back to front. I think that's probably true as long as you always do 
it the same way...
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 6:34 AM, Mitch Haley via 
Mercedes wrote:   Count your file strokes. 
Hit a tooth with a Sharpie marker so you know when you've finished the chain 
and gotten back to the beginning. 
2-3 strokes per tooth is plenty if you sharpen after each tank of gas and keep 
it out of the dirt. 
Hole the file parallel to the witness mark on the tooth, give it two swipes, 
skip a tooth and do the next. When you've filed every tooth on one side of the 
chain, reposition and do the other side. If you hold the file level on one side 
and tilt it on the other side, you'll have trouble. 
Push the file into the leading edge of the tooth, if you sharpen half of them 
from the front and half from the back, it'll cut lopsided. 

> On August 20, 2019 at 6:07 PM OK Don via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes, I've been using a hand file - not that successfully it seems though.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
It might be the same tool, but for $10, I'll stick with the one that was
reviewed. My experience with Harbor Freight electric tools has not been
good overall.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 5:11 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> How about Harbor Freight?
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=chain%20saw%20sharpener
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
Count your file strokes. 
Hit a tooth with a Sharpie marker so you know when you've finished the chain 
and gotten back to the beginning. 
2-3 strokes per tooth is plenty if you sharpen after each tank of gas and keep 
it out of the dirt. 
Hole the file parallel to the witness mark on the tooth, give it two swipes, 
skip a tooth and do the next. When you've filed every tooth on one side of the 
chain, reposition and do the other side. If you hold the file level on one side 
and tilt it on the other side, you'll have trouble. 
Push the file into the leading edge of the tooth, if you sharpen half of them 
from the front and half from the back, it'll cut lopsided. 

> On August 20, 2019 at 6:07 PM OK Don via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes, I've been using a hand file - not that successfully it seems though.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 20/08/2019 5:07 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, I've been using a hand file - not that successfully it seems though.
The best grinder in that review is the price of 10 new chains, I'll pass.
The next best is $41 - I'll get it and try it - has to be better than what
I've been doing.
The hard red center in the cedar logs seems to be hard on chains ...


How about Harbor Freight?

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=chain%20saw%20sharpener


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
Yes, I've been using a hand file - not that successfully it seems though.
The best grinder in that review is the price of 10 new chains, I'll pass.
The next best is $41 - I'll get it and try it - has to be better than what
I've been doing.
The hard red center in the cedar logs seems to be hard on chains ...

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 4:42 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Yes, we do them by hand too some of the time,  but if you use the
> grinder periodically, it will even out the teeth. I keep 2 or 3 chains
> and swap them out. If you use the grinder to do all of them at one time
> it is fairly quick to sharpen them. It is truly amazing how well a sharp
> saw can cut compared to a dull one.
>
>
> On 20/08/2019 4:37 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > My personal choice is a proper size round file with a handle. Having
> > developed the skill to sharpen the teeth, for myself, it is much quicker
> to
> > dress the teeth and get back to work... no setup or fuss.
> > 5 min on a 20 inch saw, I'm back to cutting chips. You just have to learn
> > to hold the file angle and feel the cut of the file.. once you have it
> > down... easy.
> >
> > On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:25 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> You need one of these -
> >>
> >> https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/
> >>
> >> It makes it easy to keep all of the teeth on the chain essentially the
> >> same. That is much more difficult to do when filing by hand.
> >>
> >>
> >> On 20/08/2019 4:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
> >>> I now have a new bar, two new chains, the proper file, and the greaser
> >> for
> >>> the sprocket at the end of the bar. Will test it tomorrow ...
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> ___
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> >>
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> >>
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> >>
> >>
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> >
>
>
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>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
Yes, we do them by hand too some of the time,  but if you use the 
grinder periodically, it will even out the teeth. I keep 2 or 3 chains 
and swap them out. If you use the grinder to do all of them at one time 
it is fairly quick to sharpen them. It is truly amazing how well a sharp 
saw can cut compared to a dull one.



On 20/08/2019 4:37 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

My personal choice is a proper size round file with a handle. Having
developed the skill to sharpen the teeth, for myself, it is much quicker to
dress the teeth and get back to work... no setup or fuss.
5 min on a 20 inch saw, I'm back to cutting chips. You just have to learn
to hold the file angle and feel the cut of the file.. once you have it
down... easy.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:25 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


You need one of these -

https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/

It makes it easy to keep all of the teeth on the chain essentially the
same. That is much more difficult to do when filing by hand.


On 20/08/2019 4:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

I now have a new bar, two new chains, the proper file, and the greaser

for

the sprocket at the end of the bar. Will test it tomorrow ...




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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
My personal choice is a proper size round file with a handle. Having
developed the skill to sharpen the teeth, for myself, it is much quicker to
dress the teeth and get back to work... no setup or fuss.
5 min on a 20 inch saw, I'm back to cutting chips. You just have to learn
to hold the file angle and feel the cut of the file.. once you have it
down... easy.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:25 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> You need one of these -
>
> https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/
>
> It makes it easy to keep all of the teeth on the chain essentially the
> same. That is much more difficult to do when filing by hand.
>
>
> On 20/08/2019 4:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
> > I now have a new bar, two new chains, the proper file, and the greaser
> for
> > the sprocket at the end of the bar. Will test it tomorrow ...
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

You need one of these -

https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/

It makes it easy to keep all of the teeth on the chain essentially the 
same. That is much more difficult to do when filing by hand.



On 20/08/2019 4:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

I now have a new bar, two new chains, the proper file, and the greaser for
the sprocket at the end of the bar. Will test it tomorrow ...





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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
I now have a new bar, two new chains, the proper file, and the greaser for
the sprocket at the end of the bar. Will test it tomorrow ...

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 11:20 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> A bent bar will also cut in circles.  It's not hard to bend them if the
> saw gets pinched,
> but it's hard to straighten them.  It doesn't take much of a bend.
>


-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
You may be correct... as is often with corporate mergers,, cheap and good
do not survive in same environment.


On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 11:59 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 20/08/2019 1:45 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > Poulan is actually made by Husky.. it's their "Cheap version" I have
> > one that someone gave me because it would not run... so far, I've spent
> > enough to buy a new one, it runs... but then won't start.. then it will
> > run.. etc etc Known issues with them is they suck wood chips into the
> > lower crankcase and trash the crank seals... which kills a two stroke...
> no
> > pressure, no start..
> > Now,, it's just a challenge item... I WILL make it run... or else...
> >
>
> Is it not the other way around? My recollection is that Poulan bought
> the Husky chain saw and there was major concern that the Husky would
> deteriorate to the level of the Poulan.
>
> I have a Husky that predates that change and so far it has been fine but
> it has not been used a lot.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 20/08/2019 1:45 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Poulan is actually made by Husky.. it's their "Cheap version" I have
one that someone gave me because it would not run... so far, I've spent
enough to buy a new one, it runs... but then won't start.. then it will
run.. etc etc Known issues with them is they suck wood chips into the
lower crankcase and trash the crank seals... which kills a two stroke... no
pressure, no start..
Now,, it's just a challenge item... I WILL make it run... or else...



Is it not the other way around? My recollection is that Poulan bought 
the Husky chain saw and there was major concern that the Husky would 
deteriorate to the level of the Poulan.


I have a Husky that predates that change and so far it has been fine but 
it has not been used a lot.



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Poulan is actually made by Husky.. it's their "Cheap version" I have
one that someone gave me because it would not run... so far, I've spent
enough to buy a new one, it runs... but then won't start.. then it will
run.. etc etc Known issues with them is they suck wood chips into the
lower crankcase and trash the crank seals... which kills a two stroke... no
pressure, no start..
Now,, it's just a challenge item... I WILL make it run... or else...

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 10:02 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> A few years ago I bought a regular poulan the yellow one. It was a turd
> and I wore myself out just trying to start it. Took it back to Lowe’s and
> got the green pro one. It has been great for my needs
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 20, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > G Mann via Mercedes wrote on 8/20/19 11:10 AM:
> >> Huskysaws  are "fragile" in my experience. So, you have to pay extra
> >> attention to chain oiler, sharpness, etc... bad news is, "not
> fragilesaws
> >> cost lots more" So, unless you are cutting oak logs every day...
> they
> >> work good enough, if you give them attention.
> > Buy a Stihl
> >
> >
> > In my experience, the Poulan pro saws have been surprisingly good,
> despite the reputation of being bad.   Only problem I have had is the tube
> going into the gas tank (pickup) rots and needs to be replaced often.
> >
> > For trimming, I like my Stihl 015.  I think it is now 30-35 years old.
> The equivalent saw now is about $350.   Not a cheep saw.  smallest
> "consumer" stihl is $170 on sale, but requires 2 hands.   The 105 can be
> run one handed for pruning up in the tree.I have also cut substantial
> trees with it.  (24")
> > ___
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> >
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
A few years ago I bought a regular poulan the yellow one. It was a turd and I 
wore myself out just trying to start it. Took it back to Lowe’s and got the 
green pro one. It has been great for my needs 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 20, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> G Mann via Mercedes wrote on 8/20/19 11:10 AM:
>> Huskysaws  are "fragile" in my experience. So, you have to pay extra
>> attention to chain oiler, sharpness, etc... bad news is, "not fragilesaws
>> cost lots more" So, unless you are cutting oak logs every day... they
>> work good enough, if you give them attention.
> Buy a Stihl
> 
> 
> In my experience, the Poulan pro saws have been surprisingly good, despite 
> the reputation of being bad.   Only problem I have had is the tube going into 
> the gas tank (pickup) rots and needs to be replaced often.
> 
> For trimming, I like my Stihl 015.  I think it is now 30-35 years old. The 
> equivalent saw now is about $350.   Not a cheep saw.  smallest "consumer" 
> stihl is $170 on sale, but requires 2 hands.   The 105 can be run one handed 
> for pruning up in the tree.I have also cut substantial trees with it.  
> (24")
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes



G Mann via Mercedes wrote on 8/20/19 11:10 AM:

Huskysaws  are "fragile" in my experience. So, you have to pay extra
attention to chain oiler, sharpness, etc... bad news is, "not fragilesaws
cost lots more" So, unless you are cutting oak logs every day... they
work good enough, if you give them attention.

Buy a Stihl


In my experience, the Poulan pro saws have been surprisingly good, 
despite the reputation of being bad.   Only problem I have had is the 
tube going into the gas tank (pickup) rots and needs to be replaced often.


For trimming, I like my Stihl 015.  I think it is now 30-35 years old. 
The equivalent saw now is about $350.   Not a cheep saw.  smallest 
"consumer" stihl is $170 on sale, but requires 2 hands.   The 105 can be 
run one handed for pruning up in the tree.    I have also cut 
substantial trees with it.  (24")

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
A bent bar will also cut in circles.  It's not hard to bend them if the saw 
gets pinched,
but it's hard to straighten them.  It doesn't take much of a bend.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Good to know the bar oil pump is making oil. It's likely the port in the
bar itself is plugged then... which is the kiss of death when cutting under
load.
Good plan to just start fresh. When you start it all back up, run the chain
above a piece of paper or cardboard and watch for oil sling,  which will
confirm you are getting oil to chain. The ATF will "print" nicely.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 9:07 AM OK Don via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I checked - and yes, it is pumping oil out the port - I guess the bar was
> clogged. It got smoking hot, so I'll replace it, even though I don't see
> any wear.
>
> On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 10:06 AM OK Don  wrote:
>
> > The blade is not loose at all in the guide bar. I didn't see any blockage
> > of the oil port, but will run it without the bar as you suggest. I might
> > try to blow air back through the port.
> > I use a generic bar oil from the local farm store - it's thick and has
> > worked for a couple of other saws. I do have some old cheap ATF to get
> rid
> > of ---
> > The chain/bar got hot enough to smoke last time, so I'll replace them and
> > try again.
> > I really like how this saw starts, runs, handles, and it used to cut
> > straight ...
> >
> > On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 8:28 PM G Mann via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
> >> tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
> >> check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should,
> the
> >> guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
> >> quickly get excessive wear and the chain will not track as it should.
> >>
> >> If the chain runs loose side to side, replace the bar and the chain, it
> >> won't get better with use.
> >> While you have the bar off, run the engine and look for oil flow out the
> >> chain oiler... you should see a nice fat drip after a minute of running.
> >> If
> >> you don't, you got a wood chip [sawdust] in the oil port.. Husky saws
> are
> >> finicky there.
> >> What weight oil are you using for chain oil?  Try running some ATF mixed
> >> with what ever you are running. Cheap ATF works, doesn't have to be the
> >> fancy stuff. Thin oil will leak out when you are not running the saw, so
> >> park it with the blade up. lay the saw on it's side, or if you are
> parking
> >> the saw for a while, pour out the blade oil and remember to refill when
> >> you
> >> use it again.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > OK Don
> >
> > "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> > pause and reflect." Mark Twain
> >
> > "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few
> > who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric
> > fence for themselves."
> >
> > WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> > 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> > 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> > 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> >
>
>
> --
> OK Don
>
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
>
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
>
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

Chain sharpened unevenly. right side sharp. left dull.   Hit a nail?  Rock?

OK Don via Mercedes wrote on 8/19/19 6:13 PM:

Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?

It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and
got really hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!




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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
I second the comment on keeping your chain sharp, by looking at the chips
that come off the cut, When you start getting "Dust" instead of chips, stop
and sharpen the chain.
My experience with loss of chain oil is that you'll destroy the chain by
the time you notice it's running hot, AND the guide bar slot is trashed as
well.. if you only put on a new chain, it will not run true and have a
short life, so always check the bar condition.

Husky saws are "fragile" in my experience. So, you have to pay extra
attention to chain oiler, sharpness, etc... bad news is, "not fragile saws
cost lots more" So, unless you are cutting oak logs every day... they
work good enough, if you give them attention.

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 11:19 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Twist:  Chain not sharpened right or worn more on one set of teeth than
> the other.
> Probably should replace chain if old one wasn't oiled and maybe
> overheated.
> Fix the oiler.  Excess heat comes from dull chain.
> Get the proper chain file if you don't have one.
> If you watch pros they may sharpen a chain several times during a job. It
> only takes a couple minutes.
> "Sawdust" should be nice chips rather than dust.
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From:  OK Don via Mercedes
> >
> > Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
> > bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
> >
> > It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday)
> and got really
> > hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
> >
> > --
> > OK Don
> >
> > "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause
> > and reflect." Mark Twain
> >
> > "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few
> who
> > learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for
> > themselves."
> >
> > WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> > 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> > 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> > 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
I checked - and yes, it is pumping oil out the port - I guess the bar was
clogged. It got smoking hot, so I'll replace it, even though I don't see
any wear.

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 10:06 AM OK Don  wrote:

> The blade is not loose at all in the guide bar. I didn't see any blockage
> of the oil port, but will run it without the bar as you suggest. I might
> try to blow air back through the port.
> I use a generic bar oil from the local farm store - it's thick and has
> worked for a couple of other saws. I do have some old cheap ATF to get rid
> of ---
> The chain/bar got hot enough to smoke last time, so I'll replace them and
> try again.
> I really like how this saw starts, runs, handles, and it used to cut
> straight ...
>
> On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 8:28 PM G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
>
>> I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
>> tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
>> check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should, the
>> guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
>> quickly get excessive wear and the chain will not track as it should.
>>
>> If the chain runs loose side to side, replace the bar and the chain, it
>> won't get better with use.
>> While you have the bar off, run the engine and look for oil flow out the
>> chain oiler... you should see a nice fat drip after a minute of running.
>> If
>> you don't, you got a wood chip [sawdust] in the oil port.. Husky saws are
>> finicky there.
>> What weight oil are you using for chain oil?  Try running some ATF mixed
>> with what ever you are running. Cheap ATF works, doesn't have to be the
>> fancy stuff. Thin oil will leak out when you are not running the saw, so
>> park it with the blade up. lay the saw on it's side, or if you are parking
>> the saw for a while, pour out the blade oil and remember to refill when
>> you
>> use it again.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> OK Don
>
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
>
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few
> who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric
> fence for themselves."
>
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
>


-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread MG via Mercedes

Greenworks 80 volt battery powered.

MG

Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

What's the best electric chain saw on the market?

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 3:30 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I got one of the chainsaw files with a guide on it. It's very helpful for
being sure the chain is sharpened at the right angle. A lot of guys will
tell you they can "sharpen it by eye" and probably some of them can but
I've seen a lot of saws that try to cut in circles...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

  On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:19 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes<
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:   Twist:  Chain not sharpened right or worn
more on one set of teeth than the other.
Probably should replace chain if old one wasn't oiled and maybe
overheated.
Fix the oiler.  Excess heat comes from dull chain.
Get the proper chain file if you don't have one.
If you watch pros they may sharpen a chain several times during a job. It
only takes a couple minutes.
"Sawdust" should be nice chips rather than dust.


-Original Message-
From:  OK Don via Mercedes

Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?

It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday)

and got really

hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!

--
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to

pause

and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few

who

learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence

for

themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
The blade is not loose at all in the guide bar. I didn't see any blockage
of the oil port, but will run it without the bar as you suggest. I might
try to blow air back through the port.
I use a generic bar oil from the local farm store - it's thick and has
worked for a couple of other saws. I do have some old cheap ATF to get rid
of ---
The chain/bar got hot enough to smoke last time, so I'll replace them and
try again.
I really like how this saw starts, runs, handles, and it used to cut
straight ...

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 8:28 PM G Mann via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
> tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
> check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should, the
> guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
> quickly get excessive wear and the chain will not track as it should.
>
> If the chain runs loose side to side, replace the bar and the chain, it
> won't get better with use.
> While you have the bar off, run the engine and look for oil flow out the
> chain oiler... you should see a nice fat drip after a minute of running. If
> you don't, you got a wood chip [sawdust] in the oil port.. Husky saws are
> finicky there.
> What weight oil are you using for chain oil?  Try running some ATF mixed
> with what ever you are running. Cheap ATF works, doesn't have to be the
> fancy stuff. Thin oil will leak out when you are not running the saw, so
> park it with the blade up. lay the saw on it's side, or if you are parking
> the saw for a while, pour out the blade oil and remember to refill when you
> use it again.
>
>
>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
What's the best electric chain saw on the market?

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 3:30 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I got one of the chainsaw files with a guide on it. It's very helpful for
> being sure the chain is sharpened at the right angle. A lot of guys will
> tell you they can "sharpen it by eye" and probably some of them can but
> I've seen a lot of saws that try to cut in circles...
>
> Curt
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>
>   On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:19 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes<
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:   Twist:  Chain not sharpened right or worn
> more on one set of teeth than the other.
> Probably should replace chain if old one wasn't oiled and maybe
> overheated.
> Fix the oiler.  Excess heat comes from dull chain.
> Get the proper chain file if you don't have one.
> If you watch pros they may sharpen a chain several times during a job. It
> only takes a couple minutes.
> "Sawdust" should be nice chips rather than dust.
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From:  OK Don via Mercedes
> >
> > Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
> > bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
> >
> > It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday)
> and got really
> > hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
> >
> > --
> > OK Don
> >
> > "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause
> > and reflect." Mark Twain
> >
> > "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few
> who
> > learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for
> > themselves."
> >
> > WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> > 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> > 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> > 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I got one of the chainsaw files with a guide on it. It's very helpful for being 
sure the chain is sharpened at the right angle. A lot of guys will tell you 
they can "sharpen it by eye" and probably some of them can but I've seen a lot 
of saws that try to cut in circles...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:19 PM, Scott Ritchey via 
Mercedes wrote:   Twist:  Chain not sharpened right or 
worn more on one set of teeth than the other.  
Probably should replace chain if old one wasn't oiled and maybe overheated.  
Fix the oiler.  Excess heat comes from dull chain.  
Get the proper chain file if you don't have one.  
If you watch pros they may sharpen a chain several times during a job. It only 
takes a couple minutes.
"Sawdust" should be nice chips rather than dust.

> -Original Message-
> From:  OK Don via Mercedes
> 
> Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
> bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
> 
> It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and 
> got really
> hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
> 
> --
> OK Don
> 
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause
> and reflect." Mark Twain
> 
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for
> themselves."
> 
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-20 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
Twist:  Chain not sharpened right or worn more on one set of teeth than the 
other.  
Probably should replace chain if old one wasn't oiled and maybe overheated.  
Fix the oiler.  Excess heat comes from dull chain.  
Get the proper chain file if you don't have one.  
If you watch pros they may sharpen a chain several times during a job. It only 
takes a couple minutes.
"Sawdust" should be nice chips rather than dust.

> -Original Message-
> From:  OK Don via Mercedes
> 
> Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
> bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
> 
> It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and 
> got really
> hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
> 
> --
> OK Don
> 
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause
> and reflect." Mark Twain
> 
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for
> themselves."
> 
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-19 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I've had my Husky for nearly as long as we've had our house, so 12 years I 
think. It's cut many cords of wood. I did have to clean the carb after a bad 
gas incident. I only use canned gas now. It's expensive but I only burn a quart 
or two a year so it's worth it.
Dad bought a cheap Poulin to have at camp, it's garbage, not worth a penny...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 10:20 AM, Buggered Benzmail via 
Mercedes wrote:   I screwed around with a husq way too 
much, lost lots of time and money dealing with it constantly. Gave up and 
bought a Stihl. No issues with it. 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2019, at 9:27 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
> tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
> check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should, the
> guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
> quickly get excessive wear and the chain will not track as it should.
> 
> If the chain runs loose side to side, replace the bar and the chain, it
> won't get better with use.
> While you have the bar off, run the engine and look for oil flow out the
> chain oiler... you should see a nice fat drip after a minute of running. If
> you don't, you got a wood chip [sawdust] in the oil port.. Husky saws are
> finicky there.
> What weight oil are you using for chain oil?  Try running some ATF mixed
> with what ever you are running. Cheap ATF works, doesn't have to be the
> fancy stuff. Thin oil will leak out when you are not running the saw, so
> park it with the blade up. lay the saw on it's side, or if you are parking
> the saw for a while, pour out the blade oil and remember to refill when you
> use it again.
> 
> On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 5:47 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> I have to be really careful when I sharpen the chain, I tend to make them
>> want to cut in circles which they really don't like.
>> My Husqvarna tends to leak out the oil when it gets warm. I try to make
>> sure its empty when I store it otherwise theres a puddle.
>> What saw do you have? I've got a 445 which is probably a little smaller
>> than I should have bought. I've been lusting after a 450 or 455 but then
>> the last time we were at camp I sharpened the chain really carefully until
>> it was razor sharp. With the chain super sharp the saw would fly through
>> anything I put it to and it wasn't that long before my arms gave out.
>> Dad bought a Harbor Freight battery powered electric chainsaw and really
>> likes it. Says its the bees knees for trimming trees.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>>    On Monday, August 19, 2019, 7:14:20 PM EDT, OK Don via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
>> bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
>> 
>> It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and
>> got really hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
>> 
>> --
>> OK Don
>> 
>> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
>> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
>> 
>> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
>> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
>> for themselves."
>> 
>> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
>> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
>> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
>> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> ___
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-19 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
I screwed around with a husq way too much, lost lots of time and money dealing 
with it constantly. Gave up and bought a Stihl. No issues with it. 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2019, at 9:27 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
> tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
> check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should, the
> guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
> quickly get excessive wear and the chain will not track as it should.
> 
> If the chain runs loose side to side, replace the bar and the chain, it
> won't get better with use.
> While you have the bar off, run the engine and look for oil flow out the
> chain oiler... you should see a nice fat drip after a minute of running. If
> you don't, you got a wood chip [sawdust] in the oil port.. Husky saws are
> finicky there.
> What weight oil are you using for chain oil?  Try running some ATF mixed
> with what ever you are running. Cheap ATF works, doesn't have to be the
> fancy stuff. Thin oil will leak out when you are not running the saw, so
> park it with the blade up. lay the saw on it's side, or if you are parking
> the saw for a while, pour out the blade oil and remember to refill when you
> use it again.
> 
> On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 5:47 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> I have to be really careful when I sharpen the chain, I tend to make them
>> want to cut in circles which they really don't like.
>> My Husqvarna tends to leak out the oil when it gets warm. I try to make
>> sure its empty when I store it otherwise theres a puddle.
>> What saw do you have? I've got a 445 which is probably a little smaller
>> than I should have bought. I've been lusting after a 450 or 455 but then
>> the last time we were at camp I sharpened the chain really carefully until
>> it was razor sharp. With the chain super sharp the saw would fly through
>> anything I put it to and it wasn't that long before my arms gave out.
>> Dad bought a Harbor Freight battery powered electric chainsaw and really
>> likes it. Says its the bees knees for trimming trees.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>>On Monday, August 19, 2019, 7:14:20 PM EDT, OK Don via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
>> bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
>> 
>> It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and
>> got really hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
>> 
>> --
>> OK Don
>> 
>> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
>> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
>> 
>> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
>> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
>> for themselves."
>> 
>> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
>> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
>> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
>> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-19 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should, the
guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
quickly get excessive wear and the chain will not track as it should.

If the chain runs loose side to side, replace the bar and the chain, it
won't get better with use.
While you have the bar off, run the engine and look for oil flow out the
chain oiler... you should see a nice fat drip after a minute of running. If
you don't, you got a wood chip [sawdust] in the oil port.. Husky saws are
finicky there.
What weight oil are you using for chain oil?  Try running some ATF mixed
with what ever you are running. Cheap ATF works, doesn't have to be the
fancy stuff. Thin oil will leak out when you are not running the saw, so
park it with the blade up. lay the saw on it's side, or if you are parking
the saw for a while, pour out the blade oil and remember to refill when you
use it again.

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019 at 5:47 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  I have to be really careful when I sharpen the chain, I tend to make them
> want to cut in circles which they really don't like.
> My Husqvarna tends to leak out the oil when it gets warm. I try to make
> sure its empty when I store it otherwise theres a puddle.
> What saw do you have? I've got a 445 which is probably a little smaller
> than I should have bought. I've been lusting after a 450 or 455 but then
> the last time we were at camp I sharpened the chain really carefully until
> it was razor sharp. With the chain super sharp the saw would fly through
> anything I put it to and it wasn't that long before my arms gave out.
> Dad bought a Harbor Freight battery powered electric chainsaw and really
> likes it. Says its the bees knees for trimming trees.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Monday, August 19, 2019, 7:14:20 PM EDT, OK Don via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>  Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
> bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
>
> It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and
> got really hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!
>
> --
> OK Don
>
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
>
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
>
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-19 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 I have to be really careful when I sharpen the chain, I tend to make them want 
to cut in circles which they really don't like.
My Husqvarna tends to leak out the oil when it gets warm. I try to make sure 
its empty when I store it otherwise theres a puddle.
What saw do you have? I've got a 445 which is probably a little smaller than I 
should have bought. I've been lusting after a 450 or 455 but then the last time 
we were at camp I sharpened the chain really carefully until it was razor 
sharp. With the chain super sharp the saw would fly through anything I put it 
to and it wasn't that long before my arms gave out.
Dad bought a Harbor Freight battery powered electric chainsaw and really likes 
it. Says its the bees knees for trimming trees.

-Curt

On Monday, August 19, 2019, 7:14:20 PM EDT, OK Don via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?

It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and
got really hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] OT - chain saws

2019-08-19 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?

It also failed to oil the chain last time I tried to use it (yesterday) and
got really hot - took it apart and could not find a blockage - not happy!

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-13 Thread Curt Raymond
Stihl seems to have a rabid following. I consider it a Ford vs Chevy debate, I 
bought the Husky because theres a dealer (I bought from a saw shop) near my 
house and the Stihl guy is miles and miles away.

Stihl seems to run a lot more money for the same size/power saw too.

I'm very anti-Poulin for the new ones, seems like they only make really cheap 
crap.

We've got an old (probably 30 years) Echo at camp. Its a good saw but overkill 
for what we need and HEAVY. I can run my Husky for a lot longer because its 
lighter and doesn't vibrate as much.

A helmet with ear and eye protection is a vital component too as are chaps if 
for not other reason than they protect you when you bull through the brush.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:31:36 -0500
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Message-ID: a0624083ecdb5c86bad2b@[192.168.1.51]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed



Just yesterday I noticed that Tractor Supply switched from Husqvarna 
to Jonsered. AFAIK Jonsered makes good saws but doesn't have much 
for name recognition, at least around here...

-Curt

Red Jonesies are popular in N WI where a lot of people heat with 
wood.   For my money I'd still buy stihl.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-13 Thread Randy Bennell

Once again, I am coming in late.

I have a Husquvarna (sp??) that I quite like. Got it at Lowe's in the 
USA for something over $200 a couple of years back.

Not the Rancher but the next one down.
Lighter, quieter and more powerful than what I was used to and probably 
safer too.


We had a pair of old Homelite XL's that would not die.
A blue one that was probably bought around 1970 and then a red one that 
was likely purchased around 1980.

Still have the red one and sold the blue one to a friend of my younger son.

Red one could use a new chain but apart from that, no real issues.
However, I am not sure about parts availability.

Randy

On 10/05/2013 8:25 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan



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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-13 Thread Rich Thomas

I have the blue one, an XL12 I think.

--R

On 5/13/13 3:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

We had a pair of old Homelite XL's that would not die.
A blue one that was probably bought around 1970 and then a red one 
that was likely purchased around 1980. 



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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-13 Thread WILTON
#1 son just came and cut several volunteer cherry laurels with an orange 
Husky that I gave 'im several years ago.  'Got it a Lowe's and used it only 
once or so before I gave it to 'im.


Wilton

From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

I have a Husquvarna (sp??) that I quite like. Got it at Lowe's in the
USA for something over $200 a couple of years back.
-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical. 



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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-13 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Nothing better than to be born as Wilton's grand kid, eh?



On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 3:28 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 #1 son just came and cut several volunteer cherry laurels with an orange
 Husky that I gave 'im several years ago.  'Got it a Lowe's and used it only
 once or so before I gave it to 'im.

 Wilton

 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca


 I have a Husquvarna (sp??) that I quite like. Got it at Lowe's in the
 USA for something over $200 a couple of years back.
 -powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-13 Thread WILTON

Yeah, I've given the grandchildren a bunch, too.  ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws



Nothing better than to be born as Wilton's grand kid, eh?



On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 3:28 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:


#1 son just came and cut several volunteer cherry laurels with an orange
Husky that I gave 'im several years ago.  'Got it a Lowe's and used it 
only

once or so before I gave it to 'im.

Wilton

From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca


I have a Husquvarna (sp??) that I quite like. Got it at Lowe's in the
USA for something over $200 a couple of years back.
-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Curt Raymond
When we moved into the house (just over 6 years ago) I bought a Husqvarna 445 
(I think its a 445 anyway) which is (was) the top end of the homeowner line. It 
uses the smaller chain and interestingly has a plastic bottom end which makes 
it very light, mine has an 18 bar although it'll supposedly handle 20. I paid 
right around $300

A year later Dad bought a cheapo Poulin at Walmart for something like $80. It 
the definition of cheap, cheap all over.

Mine is the best saw I've ever had, Dad's is junk.

When I bought it I very nearly went up one model (450?) but it was nearly $100 
more. When I'm cutting a lot I wish I had, most times I don't.

Just yesterday I noticed that Tractor Supply switched from Husqvarna to 
Jonsered. AFAIK Jonsered makes good saws but doesn't have much for name 
recognition, at least around here...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:25:29 -0400
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Message-ID: m1a9o2wbna@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan
-- 
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Curt Raymond
I've had the chain come off the bar, come around and pop me one on the hand, 
wear gloved while cutting.

I suspect this is why the enviro-weenies spiked trees in the '80s, that might 
cause the chain to break but I agree as with most chains it should give loads 
of advance warning before actually breaking.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 03:43:34 -0400
From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Message-ID:
CALHJ_1Bp6XGnG-Y=q6ohzt0xzemzcq2sgxjw_uvkvsppnlo...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I would like to hear from someone that has actually witnessed a saw chain
breaking...been around saws my whole life and never seen it.

Most chain saw injuries are due to carelessness.

Mike

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Curt Raymond wrote:


Just yesterday I noticed that Tractor Supply switched from Husqvarna to 
Jonsered. AFAIK Jonsered makes good saws but doesn't have much for name 
recognition, at least around here...


Husqvarna, Jonsered and Poulan went under the same ownership some time ago.

IIRC, Electrolux spun off the outdoor power equipment division a few years ago 
and the parent company is named Husqvarna again.


In recent years, Jonsered were red Huskies, usually with minor differences like 
a more perpendicular handlebar angle. That allowed the guys who liked an angled 
handlebar to buy Husky and the ones who liked a straighter bar to buy Jonsered, 
while getting the same quality saw. It also allowed pro saw shops to carry 
Jonsered without all the people who bought Huskies at TSC trying to come in for 
warranty service.


Husqvarna is repositioning their various chainsaw names, so that might be 
subject to change. I hope the Jonsered name doesn't go downmarket like Poulan 
did. I just checked the Jonsered web site, it still has the pro saws listed, 
like the 2153 (equals Husky 346XP) and 2171.


Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Curt Raymond wrote:


I suspect this is why the enviro-weenies spiked trees in the '80s, that might 
cause the chain to break but I agree as with most chains it should give loads 
of advance warning before actually breaking.


I don't remember the exact mechanics involved, but the object of those terrorist 
acts was to inflict serious injury on blue collar workers, and it did work to 
some extent but I don't think anybody was permanently disabled by it.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Max
I think the idea of the terrorist act was to cause damage at the saw mill if 
the spike was hit by a blade.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Curt Raymond wrote:

 I suspect this is why the enviro-weenies spiked trees in the '80s,
that might cause the chain to break but I agree as with most chains it
should give loads of advance warning before actually breaking.

I don't remember the exact mechanics involved, but the object of those
terrorist 
acts was to inflict serious injury on blue collar workers, and it did
work to 
some extent but I don't think anybody was permanently disabled by it.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Michael Canfield
Yep.  A spike will raise holy hell with a sawmill.  Imagine that big blade
exploding into hundreds of pieces!  They use metal detectors and x-ray to
prevent that now.

Mike
On May 12, 2013 9:42 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I think the idea of the terrorist act was to cause damage at the saw mill
 if the spike was hit by a blade.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Curt Raymond wrote:
 
  I suspect this is why the enviro-weenies spiked trees in the '80s,
 that might cause the chain to break but I agree as with most chains it
 should give loads of advance warning before actually breaking.
 
 I don't remember the exact mechanics involved, but the object of those
 terrorist
 acts was to inflict serious injury on blue collar workers, and it did
 work to
 some extent but I don't think anybody was permanently disabled by it.
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Max wrote:

I think the idea of the terrorist act was to cause damage at the saw mill if 
the spike was hit by a blade.


Then they would have spiked them up high instead of where the loggers used their 
 chain saws.


Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Hey Max - we finally agree on something! I am scared sh*tless of chain saws
and have always paid someone or used a high quality bow saw.
On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise that
 you take all safety precautions very seriously.  A chain saw is probably
 the single most dangerous tool a man can ever use.  If you can take a class
 locally, you can probably get some great tips on how to operate one safely.

 I grew up in a house of chain saw users, and all our neighbors were users,
 but I managed to never learn to use one.  My wife wants me to borrow one to
 remove a few limbs from a tree, but I plan to pay someone else to do it.  I
 think the risk of injury for a novice is just too great.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw
 to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.
 
 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
 
 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?
 
 Allan


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Dieselhead
I have one of those orange things from Lowes, once I get it running 
it is pretty good.  It takes a while to get started, might be the 
crappy gas or something.  I have a 45 or 50 yo Homelite XL that I 
like but the pickup got goobered and I have not fixed it.  It has no 
safety features whatsoever but ran and cut great.  I remember when 
my dad bought it, I think he used it like twice.


--R


Any chainsaw should have the gas tank empties and run dry.  I have a 
30 YO chainsaw that i took to the shop once, just 'cuz I figgered it 
was time after 30 years.


Mix the gas ratio carefully and consistently.   Don't put the mixed 
gas in your saw if it smells old.


These two are for ppl like me who use a saw only on occasion:
Dump out any gas that is left over when the job is done.  Then run 
the saw out of gas before storing.


That's the only way my saw made it 30 yrs without seeing a shop.  I 
wanted to have a kit put in the carb before the saw guy retired to 
kicked the bucket.  SO, it should be good for the next 30 yrs...


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Dieselhead



Just yesterday I noticed that Tractor Supply switched from Husqvarna 
to Jonsered. AFAIK Jonsered makes good saws but doesn't have much 
for name recognition, at least around here...


-Curt


Red Jonesies are popular in N WI where a lot of people heat with 
wood.   For my money I'd still buy stihl.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-12 Thread Max
Must be the only thing.

Well, we also have cats in our house, but that's it as far as similarities, can 
only be TWO things.

Oh wait, we both work for uncle Sam.  That's got to be the last thing...

You know I suspect you also love our country.  

I think this list of similarities is starting to get scary!


-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

Hey Max - we finally agree on something! I am scared sh*tless of chain
saws
and have always paid someone or used a high quality bow saw.
On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise
that
 you take all safety precautions very seriously.  A chain saw is
probably
 the single most dangerous tool a man can ever use.  If you can take a
class
 locally, you can probably get some great tips on how to operate one
safely.

 I grew up in a house of chain saw users, and all our neighbors were
users,
 but I managed to never learn to use one.  My wife wants me to borrow
one to
 remove a few limbs from a tree, but I plan to pay someone else to do
it.  I
 think the risk of injury for a novice is just too great.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain
saw
 to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.
 
 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be
practical.
 
 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?
 
 Allan


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Michael Canfield
Depends on how big of trees you plan to cut.  If nothing you plan to cut is
over 8 or so look at an Echo 14 or 16.  They are very light, super
dependable, plenty powerful enough to cut up the big stuff and very well
balanced for one hand use when doing a lot of small stuff.  If you are
doing primarily small stuff and limbing look for a saw you can run one
handed(handle on top) once you are comfortable with it.  You will be glad
you did.

For a bigger saw, in my opinion, nothing beats the new Jonsered saws.
Light for the size, smooth running, good handles, easy maintenance,
excellent quality and TONS of monster size wood chip chuckin'
power..lol.

Only downside to either is price but you are buying a machine that will
last you your lifetime if you care for it right.

Otherwise, if you want a cheap saw you can throw around, not give a crap
about and depend on to run every time you need it get a Poulan Wild Thing
that comes with the 18 bar.  Replace the 18 with a 16 and a decent quality
chain so it has enough power to run it.  Run nothing but non ethanol gas
and Poulan synyhetic 2 cycle oil.  $150 or so total, crude, plastic,
vibrates a lot, but otherwise can't be beat for the price.  I've had one
for about 5 years or so and ,knock on wood, it has never let me down.  I
have cut a LOT of firewood with it.

Just my $.02, Mike
On May 10, 2013 9:26 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.

 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?

 Allan
 --
 Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Max
I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise that you 
take all safety precautions very seriously.  A chain saw is probably the single 
most dangerous tool a man can ever use.  If you can take a class locally, you 
can probably get some great tips on how to operate one safely.

I grew up in a house of chain saw users, and all our neighbors were users, but 
I managed to never learn to use one.  My wife wants me to borrow one to remove 
a few limbs from a tree, but I plan to pay someone else to do it.  I think the 
risk of injury for a novice is just too great.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw
to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Michael Canfield
A chain saw is no more dangerous than any other power tool if you simply
use common sense, go slow, wear safety gear andnpay attention to what you
are doing at all times.

Mike
On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise that
 you take all safety precautions very seriously.  A chain saw is probably
 the single most dangerous tool a man can ever use.  If you can take a class
 locally, you can probably get some great tips on how to operate one safely.

 I grew up in a house of chain saw users, and all our neighbors were users,
 but I managed to never learn to use one.  My wife wants me to borrow one to
 remove a few limbs from a tree, but I plan to pay someone else to do it.  I
 think the risk of injury for a novice is just too great.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw
 to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.
 
 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
 
 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?
 
 Allan


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Max
Yes, but there is zero room for error.  And if the chain breaks during 
operation, it can easily destroy an arm, or a leg, or your face, etc.  
Leggings, helmet, eye protection, gloves, hearing protection, all recommended.  
Unfortunately an area logger would usually suffer a chain saw accident once 
every year or two in the area I grew up.  The resulting injuries were usually 
horrific, if the logger lived.  

Don't forget that all the protective equipment in the world won't help if (a) 
you don't use it and (b) the tree falls on you instead of away from you.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

A chain saw is no more dangerous than any other power tool if you
simply
use common sense, go slow, wear safety gear andnpay attention to what
you
are doing at all times.

Mike
On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise
that
 you take all safety precautions very seriously.  A chain saw is
probably
 the single most dangerous tool a man can ever use.  If you can take a
class
 locally, you can probably get some great tips on how to operate one
safely.

 I grew up in a house of chain saw users, and all our neighbors were
users,
 but I managed to never learn to use one.  My wife wants me to borrow
one to
 remove a few limbs from a tree, but I plan to pay someone else to do
it.  I
 think the risk of injury for a novice is just too great.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain
saw
 to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.
 
 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be
practical.
 
 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?
 
 Allan


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Michael Canfield
I would like to hear from someone that has actually witnessed a saw chain
breaking...been around saws my whole life and never seen it.

Most chain saw injuries are due to carelessness.

Mike
On May 11, 2013 3:06 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Yes, but there is zero room for error.  And if the chain breaks during
 operation, it can easily destroy an arm, or a leg, or your face, etc.
  Leggings, helmet, eye protection, gloves, hearing protection, all
 recommended.  Unfortunately an area logger would usually suffer a chain saw
 accident once every year or two in the area I grew up.  The resulting
 injuries were usually horrific, if the logger lived.

 Don't forget that all the protective equipment in the world won't help if
 (a) you don't use it and (b) the tree falls on you instead of away from you.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

 A chain saw is no more dangerous than any other power tool if you
 simply
 use common sense, go slow, wear safety gear andnpay attention to what
 you
 are doing at all times.
 
 Mike
 On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
  I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise
 that
  you take all safety precautions very seriously.  A chain saw is
 probably
  the single most dangerous tool a man can ever use.  If you can take a
 class
  locally, you can probably get some great tips on how to operate one
 safely.
 
  I grew up in a house of chain saw users, and all our neighbors were
 users,
  but I managed to never learn to use one.  My wife wants me to borrow
 one to
  remove a few limbs from a tree, but I plan to pay someone else to do
 it.  I
  think the risk of injury for a novice is just too great.
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston, SC
  '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
  Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 
  I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain
 saw
  to
  keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
  much.
  
  Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be
 practical.
  
  Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
  lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
  probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
  just rent one as needed?
  
  Allan
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Fmiser
Allan Streib wrote:

 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be
 practical.
 
 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe
 should just rent one as needed?

I'm partial to Stihl.  Maybe it's the german engineering...  Anyway,
I have two, a big and a little one - but I cut a lot of wood.  For
years I had only the big one, which did the job fine but for limbing
it was heavy.  Yet for the big wood a big saw is rather necessary.
Recently I added the small one to the fleet.  It's mighty handy and
the 4 lb [2 kg] weight savings makes a big difference.

For what you are describing, a Stihl MS 180 could fit your needs
nicely.  
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180cbe/

For those who don't like jerking the starter rope, a recent
option is Easy2Start™ System, a spring loaded starter where a steady
pull winds a spring which then spins the engine.  I got to help a
friend who has one.  It really does work, and seems to be durable as
well.

If you often cut pieces greater than 12 inches [30 cm] in diameter,
you may wish for a bigger saw, but otherwise it's a handy size.

Beyond the saw, I would recommend rugged boots, chaps (with the saw
jamming stuffing), safety glasses, hardhat with face guard, and
sharpening tools.

Just remember, a good saw will cut the wood right quick - and cut
your leg even faster!

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Mitch Haley

Michael Canfield wrote:

I would like to hear from someone that has actually witnessed a saw chain
breaking...been around saws my whole life and never seen it.

Most chain saw injuries are due to carelessness.


It only takes an instant of carelessness.

I once got my little Husqvarna stuck in a little sapling, and I committed the 
unpardonable sin of letting go of the front handlebar when I wanted to bend the 
tree back to free my saw. Naturally, when the tree let go of the saw, it started 
to fall towards my leg. My instinctive response was to grab on tight. If I were 
holding onto the handlebar, I would have been holding it at the balance point 
and far from the trigger. Since I was holding the rear handle, the bar wanted to 
swing down at my legs and grabbing tight gave me full throttle. Now I had a 
screaming saw falling towards my leg. I arrested the fall about an inch from my 
kneecap. I shut off the saw and went home. Ordered kevlar chaps and a forester's 
helmet the next day. Haven't needed the chaps yet, but the face shield on the 
helmet has kept twigs away from my eyes a few times.


Some simple rules:
Never put a body part above and in line with the bar and chain. Stand off to the 
left of the line of cut. You don't want a kickback to hit you in the forehead.

Never let go of the front handle.
Always engage the chain brake before walking with the saw, even a couple of 
steps between cuts. Only takes a second to click the brake on and off, and you 
want the brake on if you trip or fall.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Rich Thomas
I have one of those orange things from Lowes, once I get it running it 
is pretty good.  It takes a while to get started, might be the crappy 
gas or something.  I have a 45 or 50 yo Homelite XL that I like but the 
pickup got goobered and I have not fixed it.  It has no safety features 
whatsoever but ran and cut great.  I remember when my dad bought it, I 
think he used it like twice.


--R


On 5/11/13 12:38 AM, Dieselhead wrote:

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan
--


I have liked Stihl, but if you can find a 40 yr old Homelite super EZ 
(16) they are nice.


the big box poulans are cheap and surprisingly reliable for new saws.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Tim Crone
On May 10, 2013 9:26 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

For intermittent use, electric makes a lot of sense.  Maintenance is
easier, safety is easier (pull the plug), much lighter to carry and wield.
I've used as much as 200' of 12 gauge extension cord, though it is
important to check the manual how far you can go.

Anyway, if you can't you can't, I just wanted to point out that there are
several real advantages to electric saws.

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread WILTON
I now use an electric chain saw for little stuff (some probably bigger 
than I should).  People pass in the street and see me out in the yard with 
my walker and a chain saw and get all excited.  Occasionally somebody with 
stop, get out and come up to me asking with eyes wide, Are you OK?  so far 
I've  been able to answer, Yes, I'm OK, I know what I'm doing, and I can 
handle it.  What I'd like to say is, Just leave me the hell alone.  (I 
have trouble walking without aid only - if I can get to it, I can do it.)


Coupla days ago, I had pulled front wheels of my JD garden tractor/mower up 
onto edge of a small terrace in front yard with rear wheels still on lower 
level in order to elevate mower deck so I could reach under it to free a 
branch caught under it.  'Left engine off, tranny in gear and brakes locked 
and dismounted; 'was lying down beside the mower and reaching up under the 
deck when I heard some commotion behind me; 'raised up and looked around to 
find two excited women running across yard toward me, one of 'em calling 
911.  I quickly told them, I'm OK - just trying to clear an obstruction 
under the deck - I'm OK, but thank you for your concern.  You did the right 
thing, and don't hesitate to do it again, if you think somebody is in 
trouble.  Thank you.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Tim Crone bb...@crone.us

To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws



On May 10, 2013 9:26 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:


Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.


For intermittent use, electric makes a lot of sense.  Maintenance is
easier, safety is easier (pull the plug), much lighter to carry and wield.
I've used as much as 200' of 12 gauge extension cord, though it is
important to check the manual how far you can go.

Anyway, if you can't you can't, I just wanted to point out that there are
several real advantages to electric saws.

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Michael Canfield
Attaboy Wilton!

Mike
On May 11, 2013 12:50 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 I now use an electric chain saw for little stuff (some probably bigger
 than I should).  People pass in the street and see me out in the yard with
 my walker and a chain saw and get all excited.  Occasionally somebody
 with stop, get out and come up to me asking with eyes wide, Are you OK?
  so far I've  been able to answer, Yes, I'm OK, I know what I'm doing, and
 I can handle it.  What I'd like to say is, Just leave me the hell alone.
  (I have trouble walking without aid only - if I can get to it, I can do
 it.)

 Coupla days ago, I had pulled front wheels of my JD garden tractor/mower
 up onto edge of a small terrace in front yard with rear wheels still on
 lower level in order to elevate mower deck so I could reach under it to
 free a branch caught under it.  'Left engine off, tranny in gear and brakes
 locked and dismounted; 'was lying down beside the mower and reaching up
 under the deck when I heard some commotion behind me; 'raised up and looked
 around to find two excited women running across yard toward me, one of
 'em calling 911.  I quickly told them, I'm OK - just trying to clear an
 obstruction under the deck - I'm OK, but thank you for your concern.  You
 did the right thing, and don't hesitate to do it again, if you think
 somebody is in trouble.  Thank you.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Tim Crone bb...@crone.us
 To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 12:19 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws


  On May 10, 2013 9:26 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:


 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.


 For intermittent use, electric makes a lot of sense.  Maintenance is
 easier, safety is easier (pull the plug), much lighter to carry and wield.
 I've used as much as 200' of 12 gauge extension cord, though it is
 important to check the manual how far you can go.

 Anyway, if you can't you can't, I just wanted to point out that there are
 several real advantages to electric saws.

 Best,
 Tim
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Scott Ritchey

Supplemental:  I have about 50 acres around my house and it's mostly wooded.
I have a cheap Poulan Pro 16 inch chain say that I use for small jobs, like
removing fallen trees that obstruct my dirt trails. I also used a borrowed
Poulan Wild Thing 18 inch saw that worked well.  I moved here (NC) from FL
where chain saws were always needed post-hurricane if you wanted to get out
of your neighborhood or sometimes even out of your driveway. So a sharp and
easy-starting chain saw has been a requirement in my world for decades.  If
I used one daily I would have gone with a higher-end model but I only need
to use mine every couple months so I went with a consumer-grade product.
Just a guess, but I think proper maintenance will effect chain saw longevity
more than brand.

The safety warnings from various other posters are deadly serious.  I have
at least two acquaintances who suffered chain saw injuries and it wasn't
pretty.  Don't overestimate your capability.  Professional tree services are
exceedingly cheap compared to emergency rooms and lost income.

I have had very good luck with my cheap chain saws but even the most
expensive Stihl will give you problems if you run it on stale gas, let old
gas gum up the carb, or fail to keep the gas and oil homogenized.  Also, the
chain will get dull with use so don't hesitate to sharpen it with a file.  I
have a guide that clips to the file to help maintain the right depth and
angle.  It's pretty easy to keep the chain sharp and a dull chain is also
dangerous.  A dull chain (or one without chain oil) will overheat and that's
when they break (serious hazard).  As you cut, the sawdust should come out
as chunks not dust; if not your chain is dull.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Ritchey
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 10:26 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws


Sounds like any 16-18 inch consumer-grade chainsaw will fit your need.
You'll find several types at Walmart, Lowes, etc.  Pro-grade saws will cost
2x-3x the price of the homeowner stuff.  Whatever you get: (1) don't store
it with fuel in the tank (or you'll need to replace the carb), (2) don't use
old fuel; store your fuel-oil mix in a small can for that reason, (3)
agitate the fuel can before pouring and agitate the saw before using, and
(5) buy a file (in the correct size) to sharpen the chain.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Allan
Streib
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 9:25 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan
-- 
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Rich Thomas
I have a sharpener I bought from Sears ages ago, a Dremel with a little 
attachment to hold a proper-sized grinding stone (whatever diameter for 
your chain, about 1.5in long) at the proper place and with markings for 
the proper angle.  You can do a chain in just a few minutes with it.  
Will make a huge difference in your cutting, and much safer too.


--R


On 5/11/13 6:35 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

Also, the
chain will get dull with use so don't hesitate to sharpen it with a file.  I
have a guide that clips to the file to help maintain the right depth and
angle.  It's pretty easy to keep the chain sharp and a dull chain is also
dangerous.  A dull chain (or one without chain oil) will overheat and that's
when they break (serious hazard).  As you cut, the sawdust should come out
as chunks not dust; if not your chain is dull.



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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Scott Ritchey

Years ago, I had a sharpener with a guide and grinding stone that chucked in
a drill.  It wasn't that great because the grinding stone wore to the point
it was too small in diameter to sharpen properly.  It was also slow to use
and required 110v for the drill (pre cordless days).

I now use a file and a guide like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-Chain-File-Guide-25892/dp/B4RA76

This tool is cheaper, faster, requires no AC power, and does a great job.
Just wear work gloves and it only takes a few strokes (like 4-10, same on
each tooth) to make a chain cut like new.  I typically do all the teeth
facing one way first and then all the ones facing the other way.  The only
trick is keeping track of which teeth are already done so you don't miss
any or double sharpen any.

You need to buy the specific model file and guide (diameter and angle) for
your particular chain.  If you watch the pros work, the cut guy in the
bucket will lower his saw several times during the job for one of the ground
guys to sharpen.  The guys I hired just used a file (no guide) I guess they
were experienced enough they don't need a guide.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 6:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

I have a sharpener I bought from Sears ages ago, a Dremel with a little 
attachment to hold a proper-sized grinding stone (whatever diameter for 
your chain, about 1.5in long) at the proper place and with markings for 
the proper angle.  You can do a chain in just a few minutes with it.  
Will make a huge difference in your cutting, and much safer too.

--R


On 5/11/13 6:35 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
 Also, the
 chain will get dull with use so don't hesitate to sharpen it with a file.
I
 have a guide that clips to the file to help maintain the right depth and
 angle.  It's pretty easy to keep the chain sharp and a dull chain is also
 dangerous.  A dull chain (or one without chain oil) will overheat and
that's
 when they break (serious hazard).  As you cut, the sawdust should come
out
 as chunks not dust; if not your chain is dull.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Rick Knoble
On May 10, 2013, at 8:26 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.



Stihl Farm boss

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms290/

Husqvarna Rancher

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/455-rancher/

Echo CS-450

http://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chain-Saws/CS-450

The Husky can be purchased at Lowes. The other saws need to be sourced from a 
local or online dealer. You will not be happy with a lesser saw if you cut more 
than 10 minutes at a time. I am unsure of your age, but I am in my fifties and 
the vibration attenuation alone provided by my Stihl is worth every dime. I 
cannot afford the pins and needles of carpel tunnel at this time in my life. 

Also of note, the chains these saws are equipped with are fine for those that 
are unaccustomed to handling a chainsaw, but are unacceptable for any real 
woodcutting. I imagine they are mandated by government regulations to protect 
people from themselves, and the company's from predatory attorneys (present 
company excepted). You want pro chain like this. 

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/2013Catalog.htm


Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread David Kristin Gilmore

At 09:25 PM 5/10/2013, Allan wrote:

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?


I didn't know chain saws could be rented.  That sounds like a 
good way to learn about what you might want.  Do wear ear muffs and 
safety chaps.  The rental people probably provide them with the saw.


 For the last 32 years I have been using a chain saw a couple 
times a week.  Mostly cutting up trees that have fallen out into my 
fields or across farm roads.  I burn 3 or 4 cords to heat my house 
and sell another 6 or 8 to long term customers.  The Stihl saws have 
been the best.  For the last 10-15 years I have settled on a pair of 
Stihl 026s with 16 bars and Oregon chisel chain I buy in 100' reels 
from baileysonline.com.  I make the loops with a hand tool.  At the 
end of the day I clamp the saw in a vice and give each tooth a pass 
or two with a file.  Every fifth or so sharpening I measure each 
tooth with a caliper to make sure they are staying the same length 
and I measure each raker with a gauge.


 You may not go into it as heavy as I have but you probably will 
do more than you think.  For example your neighbors may become very 
friendly.  So you might want to think in terms of eventually getting 
a quality saw.  They are so much more satisfying to use than the 
homeowner ones.


 Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV

 Gardening is all about the urge for excellence. 



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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread John Reames
You can probably get good used chains cheap from the rental places too...

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On May 11, 2013, at 19:52, David  Kristin Gilmore dandkgilm...@frontier.com 
wrote:

 At 09:25 PM 5/10/2013, Allan wrote:
 I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.
 
 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
 
 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?
 
I didn't know chain saws could be rented.  That sounds like a good way to 
 learn about what you might want.  Do wear ear muffs and safety chaps.  The 
 rental people probably provide them with the saw.
 
 For the last 32 years I have been using a chain saw a couple times a 
 week.  Mostly cutting up trees that have fallen out into my fields or across 
 farm roads.  I burn 3 or 4 cords to heat my house and sell another 6 or 8 to 
 long term customers.  The Stihl saws have been the best.  For the last 10-15 
 years I have settled on a pair of Stihl 026s with 16 bars and Oregon chisel 
 chain I buy in 100' reels from baileysonline.com.  I make the loops with a 
 hand tool.  At the end of the day I clamp the saw in a vice and give each 
 tooth a pass or two with a file.  Every fifth or so sharpening I measure each 
 tooth with a caliper to make sure they are staying the same length and I 
 measure each raker with a gauge.
 
 You may not go into it as heavy as I have but you probably will do more 
 than you think.  For example your neighbors may become very friendly.  So you 
 might want to think in terms of eventually getting a quality saw.  They are 
 so much more satisfying to use than the homeowner ones.
 
 Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV
 
 Gardening is all about the urge for excellence. 
 
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Trent Fiorini
Good advice, I like my Craftsman 18 inch. As said I drain the fuel out
during the winter and replace with a little sea foam, I'll crank it over to
get the fuel out of the lines and the sea foam in them ( alot of people do
the same with sta-bil, i just prefer the sea foam). as to renting, a chain
saw is one of those tings we have in the garage we may use once or twice a
year, along with the roto-tiller, that we are glad to have when we need it,
I've had mine for 7 years and maybe used it a dozen times, But I know it's
there...

On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 9:26 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 Sounds like any 16-18 inch consumer-grade chainsaw will fit your need.
 You'll find several types at Walmart, Lowes, etc.  Pro-grade saws will cost
 2x-3x the price of the homeowner stuff.  Whatever you get: (1) don't store
 it with fuel in the tank (or you'll need to replace the carb), (2) don't
 use
 old fuel; store your fuel-oil mix in a small can for that reason, (3)
 agitate the fuel can before pouring and agitate the saw before using, and
 (5) buy a file (in the correct size) to sharpen the chain.

 Scott

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Allan
 Streib
 Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 9:25 PM
 To: Mercedes List
 Subject: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

  I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
 keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
 much.

 Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

 Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
 lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
 probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
 just rent one as needed?

 Allan
 --
 Allan Streib

 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
Trent Fiorini
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252
buymbpa...@gmail.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Trent Fiorini
I've noticed the prices on new chains are almost as cheap has having them
re-sharpened. I have a retied guy near me that does mine, I think it's his
hobby, he only charges $5.

On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:55 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

 You can probably get good used chains cheap from the rental places too...

 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On May 11, 2013, at 19:52, David  Kristin Gilmore 
 dandkgilm...@frontier.com wrote:

  At 09:25 PM 5/10/2013, Allan wrote:
  I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
  keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
  much.
 
  Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
 
  Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
  lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
  probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
  just rent one as needed?
 
 I didn't know chain saws could be rented.  That sounds like a good
 way to learn about what you might want.  Do wear ear muffs and safety
 chaps.  The rental people probably provide them with the saw.
 
  For the last 32 years I have been using a chain saw a couple times a
 week.  Mostly cutting up trees that have fallen out into my fields or
 across farm roads.  I burn 3 or 4 cords to heat my house and sell another 6
 or 8 to long term customers.  The Stihl saws have been the best.  For the
 last 10-15 years I have settled on a pair of Stihl 026s with 16 bars and
 Oregon chisel chain I buy in 100' reels from baileysonline.com.  I make
 the loops with a hand tool.  At the end of the day I clamp the saw in a
 vice and give each tooth a pass or two with a file.  Every fifth or so
 sharpening I measure each tooth with a caliper to make sure they are
 staying the same length and I measure each raker with a gauge.
 
  You may not go into it as heavy as I have but you probably will do
 more than you think.  For example your neighbors may become very friendly.
  So you might want to think in terms of eventually getting a quality saw.
  They are so much more satisfying to use than the homeowner ones.
 
  Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV
 
  Gardening is all about the urge for excellence.
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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-- 
Trent Fiorini
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252
buymbpa...@gmail.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Rick Knoble
On May 11, 2013, at 7:56 PM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

 You can probably get good used chains cheap from the rental places too...


I'm sure they get flogged harder than a rented mule...

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-11 Thread Mitch Haley

David  Kristin Gilmore wrote:

I didn't know chain saws could be rented.  That sounds like a good 
way to learn about what you might want.  Do wear ear muffs and safety 
chaps.  The rental people probably provide them with the saw.




Home Depot rented Dolmar/Makita 6400/6401 saws last I knew.
If you could get one of those used saws for a couple of hundred, that would be 
great, but there's a waiting list at my local HD.


Mitch.

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[MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-10 Thread Allan Streib
I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan
-- 
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-10 Thread Greg Fiorentino
 Needs to be gas-powered...

Aren't there any diesel powered units out there???

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Allan
Streib
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 6:25 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's probably
something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should just rent one as
needed?

Allan
--
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-10 Thread Scott Ritchey

Sounds like any 16-18 inch consumer-grade chainsaw will fit your need.
You'll find several types at Walmart, Lowes, etc.  Pro-grade saws will cost
2x-3x the price of the homeowner stuff.  Whatever you get: (1) don't store
it with fuel in the tank (or you'll need to replace the carb), (2) don't use
old fuel; store your fuel-oil mix in a small can for that reason, (3)
agitate the fuel can before pouring and agitate the saw before using, and
(5) buy a file (in the correct size) to sharpen the chain.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Allan
Streib
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 9:25 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan
-- 
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-10 Thread Jim Cathey

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?


Having one is better than not, if you need one at all.  You'll
use it more than you think.  I'm very partial to my Stihl.
I was sick of my cheapie that appeared to be frightened of
wood.  (It'd only run if it wasn't close to any.  Seriously!)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws

2013-05-10 Thread Dieselhead

I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained.  I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.

Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.

Don't really know much about them.  I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.  It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year.  Maybe should
just rent one as needed?

Allan
--


I have liked Stihl, but if you can find a 40 yr old Homelite super EZ 
(16) they are nice.


the big box poulans are cheap and surprisingly reliable for new saws.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-18 Thread Mitch Haley

OK Don wrote:

I'm definitely in the newbie catagory.



You should definitely download this book:
http://courses.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Library/Safe%20Work/WCB%20fallers_buckers.pdf
or http://tinyurl.com/dxa9yj

You might want to read some of the safety threads on ArboristSite.
One important rule I learned the hard way is The left hand never leaves the 
handlebar unless the engine is off or the brake is set. Nothing like squeezing 
the throttle unintentionally when you're trying to one hand a saw that's falling 
towards your knee.


Eye, ear and leg protection are must-haves.
I use this combo hat, but it's got cheap muffs that don't seal well.
OK for occasional use, but if I need to replace it I'm buying Peltor or Rockman 
next time.

http://www.labonville.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=125idcategory=47

Here's a good source for USA made leg protection. I've got the Competition 
model, but at today's prices, I'd get the regular strength full wrap chaps.

http://www.labonville.com/shop/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=14

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1562911

http://www.lni.wa.gov/Safety/TrainTools/Videos/Library/catalog.asp?VideoID=V0969

http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=111926

If you need any more convincing, here's a pic of what a leg looks like after 
getting nicked by a 50cc Stihl:


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-18 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 8:47 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Mitch Haley wrote:
 Yikes! I meant 435. No point in buying a Husky if the model number starts
 with 2, may as well buy the Poulan version instead and same some money.
 (Husky, Poulan, Redmax, and Jonsered are the same company)
 Curt has a stratified charge Husky that he likes, I think it's a 445.


Another vote for the Husky 4xx series here.  I have a 445---it's a
beautifully made machine and a joy to use.  Keep in mind that with
chainsaws, as with kitchen knives or any other cutting tool, when you
spend more money the most important thing you get is more safety---the
easier you can control the direction and depth of the cut, the less
likely you are to hurt yourself.

Alex Chamberlain

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-16 Thread Curt Raymond
It all depends on what you expect of it...
Last year I bought a Husky 445, I paid right around $300, its also an 18 and 
it ROCKS. Prior to getting it the best saw I'd ever used was an '80s vintage 
Echo 510EVL which is a good saw but the Husky is better, low weight and 
vibration, good power, good balance, great saw, I'd buy another.

So you're asking about a saw with the same size bar for half the money...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 19:19:47 -0500
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT - chain saws
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
    437bc980910151719p6bf1220aqde65bf66cb7fc...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Is the Poulan Pro 18 chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10 electric trimming saw
I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16
diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.

-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-16 Thread OK Don
Thanks! That's some good info ---

On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 10:01 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 OK Don wrote:

 No, it's yellow - Poulan Pro PP4218AVX


 I'm not familiar with that one, but the model number makes me wonder if
 it's a yellow Wild Thing. Hopefully, if they put the PP name on it they put
 a plated cylinder in it. The Wild Thing is a world class POS, with a chrome
 plated piston running in an untreated bore. Since few customers put ten
 hours on the thing, most of them don't wear it out.

 There's only one $100 pro-built saw out there, the refurbished Ryobi 10532:
 http://www.toolsnow.com/ryobi-gas-chainsaw.html
 Vertically split magnesium crankcase, and the bar mount studs thread into
 the magnesium, not into plastic. (and yes, it looks like something Tonka
 would market)
 http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=100462

 If you want a new homeowner saw instead of one of those used store return
 refurbs, then I suggest you go to TSC and drop $200 on a much better
 Poulan Pro 330, or go to the Stihl dealer and pick up a MS-181, or maybe a
 Husky 235. Or maybe I'll sell you my John Deere CS-36LE, which is still
 sealed in the factory carton.
 http://arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=111305


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-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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[MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread OK Don
Is the Poulan Pro 18 chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10 electric trimming saw
I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16
diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.

-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread Rick Knoble

From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com


Is the Poulan Pro 18 chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10 electric trimming 
saw

I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16
diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.


If it is a new saw it will be fine for occasional homeowner type use. I 
have a Stihl, but then I heat with wood. If you are going to be sawing for 
more than 15-20 minutes at a time, you should consider a higher quality saw. 
Carpal tunnel syndrome from vibration sucks, and to my knowledge is 
irreversible. Stihl, Echo, and Husqvarna are all considered higher quality 
saws.


Rick 



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread Charles Scruggs

Agree poulan is ok for occ use, best is stihl

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 15, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com  
wrote:



From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

Is the Poulan Pro 18 chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally  
for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10 electric  
trimming saw

I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16
diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.


If it is a new saw it will be fine for occasional homeowner type  
use. I have a Stihl, but then I heat with wood. If you are going to  
be sawing for more than 15-20 minutes at a time, you should consider  
a higher quality saw. Carpal tunnel syndrome from vibration sucks,  
and to my knowledge is irreversible. Stihl, Echo, and Husqvarna are  
all considered higher quality saws.


Rick

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread Rich Thomas
Is that the orange one they sell at Lowe's?  I bought chainsaw there a 
coupla months ago, I think it is a Poulan.  It has a brake feature that 
you pull back on the guard to lock the chain so when you start it you 
won't cut your hand off or something.  The second day of cutting up a 
BIG oak tree that thing broke and locked the chain so it was unusable.  
Back to Lowes, they gave me a new one which has worked fine.  I have an 
old (like 45yr) Homelite that was a great saw until the fuel pickup quit 
picking up, I haven't fooled with it though I did find parts are nearly 
unobtainable.  And another one my dad had that refuses to idle but runs 
fine if you keep it wide open.  Kinda hard to use.   I tried to adjust 
that one, 2 cycles mystify me. The orange one seems better so far.


--R

OK Don wrote:

Is the Poulan Pro 18 chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10 electric trimming saw
I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16
diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.

  


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread OK Don
No, it's yellow - Poulan Pro PP4218AVX 18-Inch 42cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered
Anti-Vibration Chain Saw
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001SQWCUQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8m=ATVPDKIKX0DERv=glance

I know it's a home-use toy, but given the little use I have for it, it seems
like it might be good enough. Kind of like buying a Harbor Freight tool?

On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 8:45 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Is that the orange one they sell at Lowe's?  I bought chainsaw there a
 coupla months ago, I think it is a Poulan.  It has a brake feature that you
 pull back on the guard to lock the chain so when you start it you won't cut
 your hand off or something.  The second day of cutting up a BIG oak tree
 that thing broke and locked the chain so it was unusable.  Back to Lowes,
 they gave me a new one which has worked fine.  I have an old (like 45yr)
 Homelite that was a great saw until the fuel pickup quit picking up, I
 haven't fooled with it though I did find parts are nearly unobtainable.  And
 another one my dad had that refuses to idle but runs fine if you keep it
 wide open.  Kinda hard to use.   I tried to adjust that one, 2 cycles
 mystify me. The orange one seems better so far.

 --R

 OK Don wrote:

 Is the Poulan Pro 18 chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally for $150.
 It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10 electric trimming
 saw
 I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16
 diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.




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-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread Mountain Man
--R- wrote:
 And
 another one my dad had that refuses to idle but runs fine if you keep it
 wide open.  Kinda hard to use.   I tried to adjust that one, 2 cycles
 mystify me.

Send it to me - we can make it work.  Plus, we might have a better
selection of shops that have old stuff for old engines... maybe...
mao

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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread Rick Knoble

From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

Is that the orange one they sell at Lowe's?  I bought chainsaw there a 
coupla months ago, 


Orange is a Husqvarna. Take it back, I think they are warranted for a year.
Good saw.
Rick 


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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread Rick Knoble

From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com


No, it's yellow - Poulan Pro PP4218AVX 18-Inch 42cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered
Anti-Vibration Chain Saw
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001SQWCUQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8m=ATVPDKIKX0DERv=glance

I know it's a home-use toy, but given the little use I have for it, it 
seems

like it might be good enough. Kind of like buying a Harbor Freight tool?


Nah, you should get many years of service out of that saw.

Rick 



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Re: [MBZ] OT - chain saws

2009-10-15 Thread OK Don
Good to hear --

On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

  No, it's yellow - Poulan Pro PP4218AVX 18-Inch 42cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered
 Anti-Vibration Chain Saw

 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001SQWCUQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8m=ATVPDKIKX0DERv=glance

 I know it's a home-use toy, but given the little use I have for it, it
 seems
 like it might be good enough. Kind of like buying a Harbor Freight tool?


 Nah, you should get many years of service out of that saw.

 Rick

 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce


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