Our 35-2 has a 3 blade Campbell Sailor, 14x8.5, and it seems to work well
in both forward and reverse. I would prefer a bit more pitch to get the
engine revs lower, but that could be achieved with a different trans ratio
also; mine is 2.5:1, and probably should be 2:1 with the large motor I have
Addendum to this tip: keep a small float/buoy in the locker or nearby to
attach to this line, so you can come back to recover your anchor and chain
when conditions improve. Someone told me this, and it crossed my mind (but
I still haven't actually added the thin line or buoy), when I considered
+1 for the robocup - we have one on the pedestal that came with our 35-2,
and it works very well. Not fancy, but solid and well designed. It won't
hold wine glasses or large diameter water bottles, but works well for the
Contigo insulated mugs we mostly use.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
> Used it this week in steer to course, steer to waypoint and steer to wind
> mode. Worked great.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 9:34 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting
Interesting idea. I was also an IT guy (retired), but prefer to keep things
simple and manageable.
I'm not familiar with the WP30 (is there an earlier thread on this?), but I
also have an older autopilot controller, a ComNav 1420, currently driving a
Raymarine wheel pilot motor. I don't have any
Here you go:
Shawn Wright / Callisto / 35 mark 2 / 1974 (hull #270) / 11353 /
sailingcalli...@gmail.com / Esquimalt, BC, Canada
btw, here on the warm BC coast, we sail all year. We're heading out for a
few weeks next Friday :)
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
Our 35-2 is similar, even with new hoses and a clean tank. Much of the
smell is from organisms in salt water decomposing, as it occurs even when
the holding tank is empty. I've been told that adding over sized venting
for the holding tank will help, to reduce the anaerobic bacteria which is
Definitely not a C, looks more like a Cooper, built in Vancouver. It is
possible that it was made by another locally builder from a Cooper mold.
They are pretty solid boats, and some of them even sail well, apparently.
I've seen this boat a few times around here. Here's another locally built
boat
Well, this is a first! Usually, items found on Amazon.com will be anywhere
from 50% to 400% more costly on Amazon.ca... Not this time! Maybe I'll
order two...
https://www.amazon.ca/Niagara-Conservation-N3610CH-Water-Saving-Standard/dp/B0096C2IVC
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V
Interesting, I will have to try this. We have only pressure water (no
manual pump) and a small household bar sink faucet, so flow is pretty good,
and I can slow it to trickle - I think the pump is about 2.5GPM. On our
first 3-4 day outing, with my wife doing dishes, we drained the tank in a
long
I took ours off soon after we got Callisto also. The head door is
sufficient for our needs to keep warmth in for the v-berth, and privacy is
not a concern. I do like the curtain idea, in case we do wish to add some
separation at some point. If we do any offshore crossings where we'd be
sleeping in
If we weren't planning some local cruising around the BC Gulf Islands in
October, this would be really tempting!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 5:54 AM Dan via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hey all, we had a
Callisto currently has 4x 6V golf cart batteries from Costco, but is wired
for six: two under the after quarterberth, two at the bottom of the hanging
locker beside the engine, and two in a custom box in port cockpit locker.
Never any problem starting our 4 cyl VW diesel (850CCA specified), even
Sounds like an interesting idea. Our current bimini folds back to lay
against the solar arch as the boom is too low to use it while sailing. The
solar panels alone provide some shade at the helm, and in our climate, we
usually want the sun. If we decide this is the boat to go south in, I may
look
On a related note, some of our interior teak has been varnished, while some
is still stain/oil finish. Is there any hope of sanding down the varnish to
return to an oil finish, or is this a lost cause? Or maybe a paint stripper
to remove it? Some of the varnished sections have some staining and
Just replaced the bow roller on our 35, after some rough anchorages and a
fouled chain caused the urethane roller to collapse inside. Then I spotted
a same size roller (3" wide) at Canadian Tire which is a better design -
solid urethane, instead of hollow with some webbing, which is the part
which
Yes, that's been my experience so far too. One area that is difficult to
get at though are those places between the hull and liner where water may
have entered and left mildew behind. For example, the area around the mast
step, head and shower pan on my 35-2. I cleaned what I could reach with
Lots of great ideas here! Thanks for sharing.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 5:42 PM Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/livability.html
>
>
>
> Evening all. Finally
Yes, my 35 does this also, and with the larger prop and longer prop shat
placing it closer to the rudder, it is quite pronounced. I use the friction
knob on the pedestal to add some friction so I don't have to always hold
the wheel so tight. It definitely increases with speed, so that my wimpy
My 35-2 has a 14x28" panel installed by the previous owner, which makes for
a good location for storing bumpers. I also plan on putting a stern anchor
in the hatch, with a bucket to contain the rode.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
Do you mean a fuel tank level gauge, or a digital fuel consumption gauge?
The latter would be very interesting to have, but would require two flow
meters to monitor the fuel intake, and the return, at least on most engines
I think. It would be really nice to be able to watch consumption vs RPM in
I've used Rotella oil for years with good success. I also used Amsoil for a
spell when I was driving a lot more for work, but I barely manage 15k/year
now, so Rotella T6 5w40 in my Jetta TDI has worked well for 10 years. In my
van, which has an older VW IDI turbo diesel, similar in technology to a
This sounds like a simple solution to rig up. If anyone has photos of their
barber hauler or similar setup under use, please share!
Thanks
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 7:28 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via
> we call our outboard sheet. Hence my comment of returning to an original
> configuration.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 8:46 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis, thanks for the detailed info. I'm trying
Dennis, thanks for the detailed info. I'm trying to understand picture it
all, but am unclear on which sheet goes through the snatch block on the
rail? I have genoa tracks on the side deck but they are used for the inner
95% jib. The outer genoa uses blocks on the toerail, which I haven't tried
Thanks for this description of a barber hauler - I will give this a try, as
reaching with the big genoa in lighter air has proven a challenge at times.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 1:30 PM Barry Lenoble
What are the symptoms of an uncentered mast? I have noticed that I
regularly see slower speeds on one tack (I need to pay more attention to
confirm which tack) even after trying to tune the sails well, and under
regular wind/current conditions. I don't have a knot meter, and only use
Navionics for
Thanks for the photos, these are very helpful. It appears these were
deleted on the 35 mk2, as I can't see any evidence of them ever being in
place (although I will check again now that I know what to look for). Can
anyone with a mk2 confirm if these are present or not?
My starboard bulkheads are
I too am interested in this bracket, as I can't see any evidence of them on
our '74 35-2, but I certainly have creaking around the bulkheads when
underway, or if things are breezy at the dock. From the inside, the
bulkheads appear to just rest in a groove in the liner. There is a small
amount of a
n Jul 20, 2019, at 10:17 44AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ours has two of these, and one has the replacement LED strips, the other
> the original Fl tube. Unfortunately, the LEDs are mismatched, and one is
> cool white, the other warm. If you
Ours has two of these, and one has the replacement LED strips, the other
the original Fl tube. Unfortunately, the LEDs are mismatched, and one is
cool white, the other warm. If you want the original look, and a more
pleasing light, I suggest the warm white LED. Not sure I would spend $70
for a new
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 7:47 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tonight I'm planning to sail Callisto from Mill Bay back to Esquimalt,
>> with an overnight at Sidne
Tonight I'm planning to sail Callisto from Mill Bay back to Esquimalt, with
an overnight at Sidney Spit, and hoping for better conditions than the
on-the-nose 35+ knots we had a few weeks ago. Forecast is for light
increasing to 10-15 Monday tomorrow afternoon, which will likely still be
Just read this before heading out for a quick sail to pickup the prawn
trap... and the head started acting up! Seemed to have lost prime on the
seawater intake. At first I though it was plugged, but it was just sucking
air. After a few minutes, I finally got it going again. No pleasant as the
John,
Hopefully you can work things out to some degree of satisfaction, although
I know it must be frustrating. This is exactly why I try to avoid letting
anyone work on my stuff unless I know their standards exceed mine. I make
lots of mistakes, for sure, but at least I can learn from them and
I wonder if that stern boarding ladder would work on my 35 mk2... lots of
other good stuff. Sad to see of course, but I could use some upgrades!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:42 PM Peter Fell via
One thing I do like about the topping lift is the ability to raise the boom
high when anchored, so it clears the bimini on our 35-2. Will I lose this
ability with a rigid vang? How much lift will it provide at rest?
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
Ours is a completely different boat and setup, but perhaps some of this
will help in some way:
Callisto is a 35 mk2 with a solar "arch" over the aft of the cockpit built
by PO. Recently modified by me to reduce weight (remove extra i-beams) and
balance the load by rotating the panels 90 deg and
Also check the mast step (under the cast plate which the mast sits on), as
the previous owner of our '74 35 mk2 said that it was an oak block which
had rotted away, and resulted in the forward most keel studs not holding
torque on the keel. He dug it out and poured concrete in place of the
block,
Hi Ron,
Interesting about your 35-2 setup. With such a short boom, is the traveller
still on the bridgedeck? Our main is about 18" short of the boom end, but I
assume it's the stock 13.5' boom. The headsails are totally custom: a
solent rig inner furler with a smaller jib (marked 95%, but due to
Our main only has two reef points, but the 2nd is quite high - I suspect
the top of the sail would be no higher than the spreaders. I hope to test
it out this weekend.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Thu, Jun 20, 2019 at 5:43
tighten the main halyard, then the downhaul, then the leech reefing line
>> and ready to go. The position of the main halyard is much less critical
>> with the hook because it does not tend to fall off the cringle like the dog
>> bone rings fall off the horns. With lazy jacks an
sheet and vang too so that the boom can rise up to the new clew. Once
> it is all hardened up then you can lash the sail as needed and come back up
> to the wind.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019, 6:11 PM Shawn Wright vi
This sounds like an interesting tactic, so I will try it next time things
pick up. In this case, my wife was getting a bit uncomfortable, we were
already 8 hours into an 11 hour sail, and the weather forecast I was
working on was 12 hours old, so I couldn't be sure if it would get worse or
not.
of breeze. I bet you were kind of lonely out there!
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middeltown, RI
> USA 02842
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone +401 965 5260
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 1:21 PM Shawn Wright
Yesterday we experienced our first heavy weather in our new 35 mk2, and in
spite of only being able to put one reef in the main, she handled the
sustained 35 knot winds closehauled for over two hours with minimal drama
(according to the graph at Trial Island that I checked this morning). A few
I like the idea of adding a tee in the sink drain for a fresh water flush -
thanks!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 9:13 AM Dreuge via CnC-List
wrote:
> I have seen heads discharge loops vented with a
Interesting, I will have a look at mine. Yours is vented outside the hull,
right? Mine has a hose, which I assume is connected to the holding tank
vent line, and then to the outside vent below the toerail.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
0 minutes. They charged me $30 and I tipped them $20,
> nine years ago. Still tight, no drips.
>
>
> You have several other options; get a new ram unit w integral pump,
> replace with a cascade pulley system like many one designs.
>
>
> Chuck S
>
>
> On May 1
Hydra Tech?
>
>
>
> His number is 206.498.7282
>
>
>
> Good Luck,
>
>
>
> Brad Crawford
>
> CnC 36 - Seattle
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 1
Hello all,
It appears that the backstay adjuster is in need of a rebuild. Although the
gauge reads to 2500psi, it struggles to reach 500, and slowly bleeds down.
It is marked Hydra Tech Marine, Vancouver, BC. (which appears to be out of
business), and looks like this:
Our 35-2 has the vinyl coated lines (maybe original) which appear to be in
decent shape (the vinyl that is). I thought of removing the vinyl, but it
appears the wire beneath is quite thin (maybe 1/8" or 3/16") so would be
more likely to cut into fingers. I was planning to just use my old shrouds
Our new 35-2 had the mast step replaced by the previous owner in 2003. He
used thinset concrete, with a stainless drain pipe running through it. He
also said that he added stainless rebar for reinforcement, which sounds
like overkill. I haven't pulled the mast or cast step plate yet, so this is
up, but I doubt it
> will based on the tight sealant I pulled out.
>
> On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I have not heard of anyone using Sikaflex. I would recommend G-Flex and
> follow the prescription in the lin
I'm also
> planning to check the keel bolt torque. Should I do this before applying
> epoxy? The joint seems very tight, with no sign of a smile - just a bit of
> lead corrosion at the leading edge. I suppose I could take some of the
> weight off the keel with the stands to see if it opens
+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Sat, May 4, 2019, 11:58 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi there,
>>
>> Well, she's on the hard for two weeks, so I'm attending to anything below
>> the waterline during this time, and pu
I'm posting this for reference, in case it is helpful to anyone. The prop
on our new 35-2 is a Campbell Sailor 3 blade, marked 14 1/2 RH P16, on a 1"
shaft. It is driven by a 40hp VW diesel, through a Hurth 100 2.5:1
transmission. The engine does not have a tach, but I plan on adding one so
I can
nd G-Flex and
> follow the prescription in the link below.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, May 2, 2019, 10:59 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
&
ypes of biological
> growth and slime occurs when water gets trapped and bilges are subject to
> collect lost of various liquids.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, May 3, 2019, 9:46 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.co
While cutting out the rubbery sealant between the keel joint on my 35-2, I
came across a spot on the starboard side, about 14-16" from the aft end of
the keel, where some black goo came out. It has a consistency of grease,
with no obvious smell.
Any idea what this might be? Perhaps some water in
Hello all,
I spent the day wet-sanding the bottom of Callisto and she is nearly ready
for a coat of paint. I also cut out the old keel joint rubbery sealant, in
preparation for some Sikaflex 291. I plan to scrub the gap a bit more and
clean with lacquer thinner before letting dry.
All the
Even up here in BC with moorage about 1/4 to 1/2 that amount, many boats
are given away or abandoned at renewal time. I attended an auction for two
boats a few months ago - a Cal 2-34 and a PY-26. Both went for under $1000
CAD. The Paceship had a newer 4 stroke outboard worth the auction price.
me to figure out how the
> system worked.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 1, 20
With many thanks to everyone here, today I removed subjects on the '74
35-2, hull #270, which has been named Callisto since the first owner, as
far as we can tell.
I picked up most of the pieces from the owner's home, including 6
additional sails in bags, each with a report from UK sails. Most of
failed. No easy way to get that gear working and i tried hard. I replaced
> theB gear with Raymarine electronics and pray because Raymarine also has
> no reasonable repair service either.
>
> On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 12:31 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wro
If it has a Bosch rotary injection pump, as my new 35-2 with VW diesel
does, the fuel supply is held open with a solenoid. Cut power to the
solenoid (generally wired to the ignition on switch) and the engine stops
(assuming it is running on fuel, and not oil vapour through the intake...
In an
Really, an '82 34' for $6K? Where? Too late, as I just bought the '74
35'... :)
On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 4:28 PM jim aridas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I think this highlights just how soft the auxiliary sail market is. case
> and point.
> Still have not found someone to
The 35-2 has an original (I think) B knot meter, but the paddle wheel has
one paddle broken off from a lifting strap. Apparently this old sender is
no longer available. Is it worth getting a replacement knot meter to get
speed over water? The boat also comes with a B H1000 windex and several
extra
Interesting about the shower. This 35-2 doesn't have the teak floor grid
outside the head for the shower, nor a proper drain in the shower pan area,
but it appears the previous owner did have a shower curtain rod installed
around the ceiling area, judging by the holes in the ceiling. Seems like it
I always preferred Beta myself... but either would go nicely with one of
the old rotary depth sounder displays. One of the fun parts of looking at
old bolts is seeing some of the old gear that brings back memories!
On Mon, Apr 29, 2019 at 11:44 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
t.org/boa/d/tracys-landing-rare-classic-cc-mark/6870767724.html
>
>
>
> I haven’t this boat in person yet, but the photos don’t look too bad at
> all.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List
$21500 CAD is around $16000 USD at today’s exchange rate. That’s a pretty
> low amount for a decent shape 35-foot C, even given its quirks.
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
>
>
&g
I'm glad to see such great dialog on this topic, and appreciate all the
varied responses. Someone on the C FB group posted a video from a race in
Ladysmith on Saturday, with only 3 boats braving the 25-40kn winds. I was
sitting on the 35-2 at the dock that day and felt her shudder under the
gusts.
Hi,
The 35-2 we're still waffling on (!) has many holes in the ceiling liner,
and some have been filled with what appears to be epoxy, leaving a
yellowish residue around the hole. Is there any safe was to clean epoxy
residue off gelcoat without damaging it? One of the things that gives me
concern
sailvalis.com/wordpress_1/?p=597
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 10:05, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> When you say very uncomfortable, d
Interesting you mention the CS36... the T version designed by Ray Wall is
very high on my list of boats that seem to tick all the right boxes, and
one that I might stretch our budget for. There is a cluster of CS boats are
a local marina - three 36Ts and two 30s, but none for sale. I've only been
I'll have to save this thread for when I need more books to read. I suspect
I'll be busy with the boat for a while. I've read several Hal Roth books,
which I found interesting, as his first one mirrors the trip a friend made
about 40 years later in the early 2000s. I alternated chapters between
Hi Jim,
When you say very uncomfortable, do you mean because your 35-3 would be
slamming into waves in rough conditions? I see that the PS 44 is about
twice the displacement of the 35, so that makes a big difference I guess.
We have some sailing to do before we'll attempt anything like that!
On
e endeavors.
>
>
>
> Just a contrary opinion.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:38 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C as of
Interesting point about the Ericson window issue - while C has changed
window designs a few times, Ericsons maintained the same frames for most of
their production, and they do seem to develop leaks. The boats with not
teak around the windows have aged well, but I've seen many newer ones with
lots
t; sell later.
>
> I have an article that may be pertinent to your concerns. If I find it
> I'll forward it to you.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 11:22 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc
s the deal; I keep detailed records as part of my rebuild “hobby”
> and the yearly average costs over time is $7,000.00 U.S. Includes
> everything with the exception of the $25,000 that we paid for it.
>
> I will be interested in your decision. Good luck!
>
> On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:2
> Never saw winds over 30 (on the return) and never felt unsafe.
>>
>> Joel
>> Formerly The Office
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 11:21 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm going to switch things up a bit
For comparison, this boat is near me, for $32,500 CAD, so $24K US. It is a
new listing, so I'll see how long it lasts. I find the galley on the Mk1
quite small (from the photos) which is one reason I haven't looked at it.
https://thunderbirdmarine.com/yacht-sales/35-cc-mk-i/
There is also a '74
I'm going to switch things up a bit from the gloomy topic of my current
boat purchase: how many of you have taken your C offshore, and if so,
which boat, where to, and how did it manage the conditions? If you have not
gone offshore, what are the worst conditions you've experienced in a C,
and how
Matthew,
Interestingly, this boat has had much of the work you describe done by the
previous owner - hull & deck painted, barrier coat, delamination fixed with
epoxy, new holding tank, retabbed bulkheads. The electrical panel is ugly
and original, and the engine install is very complex and messy,
Here in BC, good boats seem to move quickly if they are priced fairly.
There is a C 30 for $55K which hasn't sold, and another very nice one at
$24K which also hasn't sold, but I've watched several average condition
Catalina 30s sell for 20K in the past year. A Hunter 31 sold last week for
$25K
for internal deterioration from a
> cracked elbow leaking salt water back towards the head. It's an issue
> known for killing that otherwise great engine.
>
> Eric
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:31 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
Oh yeah, a few more things. I sounded the decks, and although there is some
creaking when walking between the mast and hatch area, sounding gives a
consistent sound. The only place that was different was around the
chainplates, but it was almost completely just inboard and outboard of
them, which
We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C 35-2, and
I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:
-the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a few
additional switches,
My parents have/had a flexible tank in their powerboat, which failed,
making for an unpleasant job to replace. Not sure if it was more unpleasant
that a rigid tank would have been, but I suspect so. Based on that, I'd opt
for a rigid (plastic) tank I think. The 35-2 we are buying has a newer
I recently read of an account where a rudder was jammed so hard against the
hull when reversing and a steering cable broke, that it caused a loss of
steering; even the emergency tiller was unable to break it loose. So I
would imagine ensuring this can't happen at the very least should be the
goal,
e everything and have them duplicate it. You cn also ship it
> to them for duplication.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Apr 22, 2019, 10:00 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> The 35-2 we are about to purchase ha
Probably not useful information, but the 35-2 we are buying gives just over
1 turn of the wheel on each side of centre. I haven't confirmed what this
looks like down below, but will be interested in the answer you get from
the experts.
On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 6:09 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
Not quite closed, but pretty much so. Just need to do a final engine test
(we only ran engine to get out of harbour; I want to run at various speeds,
in reverse, etc.) and test the watermaker, since it is a very complex
setup. Hope to close it in a few days.
Thanks!
On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 5:34
Regarding genoa/jib sheets: is it acceptable to use one double length
sheet, marked in the middle, then looped through the clew? I will need to
replace the sheets on our new 35 as they are too large, and the knots are
also bulky as result. It seemed to me that a single sheet looped through
would
89 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mon, Apr 22, 2019, 8:00 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> The 35-2 we are about to purchase has standing rigging of unknown age,
>> although it appears to be solid. T
Perfect! I just found a tag on one of them which confirms they are Forespar
brand Marelon. Added to my list for haulout!
Thanks!
On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 2:29 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> FYI, Forespar recommends using Lanacote to lube their marelon
Hello all,
The 35-2 we are about to purchase has standing rigging of unknown age,
although it appears to be solid. There is a fellow at the club where the
boat is currently located who does rigging, and is going to give me a
quote. As the boat is already being hauled and put on the hard for 2
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