There are some designs for harmonic reducers that use a rubber timing belt
as the flexible gear. It seems like these might last nearly forever.
But 99% of the stuff on Thingiverse needs for development work. People
post their project as soon as they reach the "demo" stage and they are
mostly
What's the thingiverse link again? Quite a number of these things on there. All
messages with it have flushed from Yahoo's trash folder. Now my interest is
piqued more and I want to see the models you're working with.
On Monday, August 24, 2020, 7:54:55 PM MDT, Gene Heskett
wrote:
On
Some sort of flexibility enhancing slots might work. Perhaps a couple of rows
of this sort of slot horizontally around the circumference?
https://hackaday.com/2011/12/07/laser-cutting-technique-makes-plywood-bendable/
On Monday, August 24, 2020, 5:45:47 PM MDT, Thaddeus Waldner
wrote:
THat is a great idea but did you see the designer's disclaimer? It
reads
I printed mine out of PLA and after about 15 minutes of high-speed use,
> the flexible gear cracked. Printing out of other materials may give a
> longer life, but really, any 3D printed gears are not really suitable
On Monday 24 August 2020 19:43:22 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:
> A print with sturdy walls and mostly hollow interior describes a
> diaphragm structure. This is great for when you need a stiff part, but
> not so great for flex. What you need to do to get maximum strength and
> flexibility is to print
A print with sturdy walls and mostly hollow interior describes a diaphragm
structure. This is great for when you need a stiff part, but not so great for
flex. What you need to do to get maximum strength and flexibility is to print
the flex part solid and thin it from the outside.
> On Aug
On Monday 24 August 2020 06:15:16 andy pugh wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 10:35, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > I hadn't thought of that, changing filament is a pita, but worth the
> > experiment.
>
> I think that I would be looking to change the design. Where is it
> breaking?
>
Most of the time
On Mon, 24 Aug 2020 at 10:35, Gene Heskett wrote:
> I hadn't thought of that, changing filament is a pita, but worth the
> experiment.
I think that I would be looking to change the design. Where is it breaking?
If you look at some other designs they incorporate flex-beams.
I've done a fair amount of plastic welding and generally dissimilar
plastics don't like to heat bond to each other. The join is usually very
weak. It's worth a try though.
Les
On 24/08/2020 04:41, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
Something to try when you get a roll of TPU. First do some
On Sunday 23 August 2020 23:41:59 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> Something to try when you get a roll of TPU. First do some test cube
> experiments to figure out how to pause and swap filament for a few
> layers, then pause and swap back. Then figure out the settings to get
> TPU and PLA
Something to try when you get a roll of TPU. First do some test cube
experiments to figure out how to pause and swap filament for a few layers, then
pause and swap back. Then figure out the settings to get TPU and PLA to bond
together.
Print the part with a few layers of TPU bracketing the
On Sunday 23 August 2020 19:00:51 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 8/23/20 4:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > The TPU hasn't arrived, and its way too
> > flexible for this from what I've found on you-tube. Wait for a
> > different design to show up. From what I've learned, the cup of the
> > flexgear could
On 8/23/20 4:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> The TPU hasn't arrived, and its way too
> flexible for this from what I've found on you-tube. Wait for a
> different design to show up. From what I've learned, the cup of the
> flexgear could be doubled in depth aspect ratio. Or we need a plastic
>
On Sunday 23 August 2020 14:59:11 Chris Albertson wrote:
> You are pretty much confirming my opinion that you know more about
> these than the guy who designed the one you are trying to build.
>
> Some of my first projects were a box to house a PCB, A plastic foot to
> a stand mixer. and a rear
You are pretty much confirming my opinion that you know more about these
than the guy who designed the one you are trying to build.
Some of my first projects were a box to house a PCB, A plastic foot to a
stand mixer. and a rear cap for an SLR lens. And other things that don't
matter if the
On Saturday 22 August 2020 19:25:25 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Then go into the CAD software and fill the hex pocket and enlarge the
> holes to accept the brass inserts or make models threads.
>
> At some point to you have to decide that the person who designed this
> thing only made a first level
On Saturday 22 August 2020 19:25:25 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Then go into the CAD software and fill the hex pocket and enlarge the
> holes to accept the brass inserts or make models threads.
>
> At some point to you have to decide that the person who designed this
> thing only made a first level
Then go into the CAD software and fill the hex pocket and enlarge the holes
to accept the brass inserts or make models threads.
At some point to you have to decide that the person who designed this thing
only made a first level prototype and more development is required. I'm
following your
On Saturday 22 August 2020 16:30:56 Chris Albertson wrote:
> The solution is not to use captive hex nuts.
Thats what this thing is designed for, if indeed it has pockets for the
nuts. The m4's generally have a pocket, but the m3's in the wave bearing
carrier are plumb bare.
> You can simply
The solution is not to use captive hex nuts. You can simply print M4 size
threads inside a hole and screw the cap screw into the threaded hole. This
works if you don't go through so many assembly/disassembly cycles. The
best is to use these heat-set brass thread inserts. Then your screw goes
On Friday 21 August 2020 18:32:11 Gene Heskett wrote:
Thread continued, sorta.
Another problem I am noting, and I'm curious if its been noted by others,
and any possible fixes for it found, "cold flow".
Several places in this assembly are held by m3 cap screws, and while the
nuts should be
On Friday 21 August 2020 15:35:26 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Friday 21 August 2020 12:45:11 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Checking just now, its up to a
> step over a mm up, the brim looks pretty gossamer, but the higher
> stuff doesn't look like its starving, just on a diet. Might have a
> usable
On Friday 21 August 2020 12:45:11 Chris Albertson wrote:
> You remind my of something I always do and it would help with you
> adhesion problem and allows parts to be removed with less effort. I
> always place a fillet around the edge of the part. So whatever
> surface is touching the build
You remind my of something I always do and it would help with you
adhesion problem and allows parts to be removed with less effort. I
always place a fillet around the edge of the part. So whatever
surface is touching the build plate should have a fillet, even if it is
only 0.5mm radius it
On Thursday 20 August 2020 20:37:45 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> Blue painter's tape on the glass, edges butted together. Wipe down
> gently with rubbing alcohol to remove the wax that makes it possible
> to unroll the tape.
I'll have to locate a fresh supply of that stuff, whatever I
Blue painter's tape on the glass, edges butted together. Wipe down gently with
rubbing alcohol to remove the wax that makes it possible to unroll the tape.
On Thursday, August 20, 2020, 8:07:12 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
wrote:
Thanks for any hints on how to reliably control the adhesion with
On Thursday 20 August 2020 10:03:56 Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> I'm still trying to control adhesion, I am damaging the glass
> chiseling my prints loose. I do have 2 of these drive things running
> now, and I was going to try a 40C bed at 190C for the last flexgear,
> but that still blocked the
On Thursday 20 August 2020 00:54:07 Bruce Layne wrote:
> I'm starting to use larger quantities of filament in a small but
> growing 3D print farm. I'd love to find someplace where I could buy
> 10-100 kg of filament per order and be assured of good quality and
> good pricing, but I've been
I'm starting to use larger quantities of filament in a small but growing
3D print farm. I'd love to find someplace where I could buy 10-100 kg
of filament per order and be assured of good quality and good pricing,
but I've been surprised that my initial investigations have been mostly
fruitless.
> The white pla is not the same stuff as the black, by a hell of a long row
of apple trees. Where the black is a brittle as can be cold, the white
is much more forgiving, . . .
Back in about 1977, I got told the black plastic was the first that was
recycled.
The people doing the recycling
Could build a crossed gantry printer
https://hackaday.com/2020/08/19/re-imagining-the-crossed-gantry-3d-printer/
Toolchanging between plastic extruder and milling tool for high surface
precision with FDM printing
https://hackaday.com/2020/08/18/e3d-teaches-additive-machines-how-to-subtract/
On Wednesday 19 August 2020 19:17:08 Gene Heskett wrote:
Well, I'm back, hat in hand.
The white pla is not the same stuff as the black, by a hell of a long row
of apple trees. Where the black is a brittle as can be cold, the white
is much more forgiving, AND it sticks to the glass about 1000
I was not suggesting a cycloidal drive for your application. You need
something that can't be back driven and harmonic is best. My comment was
that soon you will know more than the designer of this thing. I did that
with printed drone chassis. I made a bunch then broke them and made more.
On Wednesday 19 August 2020 17:52:39 Chris Albertson wrote:
> I suspect that in the end you will need to design your own reduction
> drive from a clean sheet of paper using what you learn from building
> this. I think I'd make the gear teeth larger so that small printing
> errors don't matter.
>
I suspect that in the end you will need to design your own reduction drive
from a clean sheet of paper using what you learn from building this. I
think I'd make the gear teeth larger so that small printing errors don't
matter.
My plan with my plastic printed milling machine parts is to do a
On Wednesday 19 August 2020 12:09:05 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 19 August 2020 10:25:14 Greg Bernard wrote:
> > Most hardware stores carry silicone grease for o-rings in the
> > plumbing section. I'd be willing to bet it would work just fine for
> > your purpose.
>
> Thats similar to
On Wednesday 19 August 2020 10:25:14 Greg Bernard wrote:
> Most hardware stores carry silicone grease for o-rings in the plumbing
> section. I'd be willing to bet it would work just fine for your
> purpose.
>
Thats similar to DC-4, and I have some of that but its 60 yo. "Borrowed"
it while
On Wednesday 19 August 2020 01:53:13 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> More perimeters = more strength in FDM printing. For rigid plastics
> like PLA that also increases stiffness. Several years ago, Benelli was
> designing a new auto loading shotgun and they had a problem with part
> of the
Most hardware stores carry silicone grease for o-rings in the plumbing
section. I'd be willing to bet it would work just fine for your purpose.
On Wed, Aug 19, 2020, 5:02 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 19 August 2020 00:19:40 Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> > On Tuesday 18 August 2020 20:30:45
On Wednesday 19 August 2020 00:19:40 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 18 August 2020 20:30:45 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Tuesday 18 August 2020 18:50:22 Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
> > > > the middle of a now thicker and nuch denser 6 wall build. cura
> > > > settings are for 6 line walls, 15 ipm and
More perimeters = more strength in FDM printing. For rigid plastics like PLA
that also increases stiffness.
Several years ago, Benelli was designing a new auto loading shotgun and they
had a problem with part of the bolt breaking. They made it thicker serveral
times, they tried different
On Tuesday 18 August 2020 20:30:45 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 18 August 2020 18:50:22 Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
> > > the middle of a now thicker and nuch denser 6 wall build. cura
> > > settings are for 6 line walls, 15 ipm and 30 ipm.
> >
> > 6 line walls/perimeters is a large number. My
On Tuesday 18 August 2020 18:50:22 Frank Tkalcevic wrote:
> > the middle of a now thicker and nuch denser 6 wall build. cura
> > settings are for 6 line walls, 15 ipm and 30 ipm.
>
> 6 line walls/perimeters is a large number. My default setting is 2.
> Less perimeters also prints a lot
> the middle of a now thicker and nuch denser 6 wall build. cura settings
> are for 6 line walls, 15 ipm and 30 ipm.
6 line walls/perimeters is a large number. My default setting is 2. Less
perimeters also prints a lot faster. If the part is weak, you can always
increase it later, but it
On Monday 17 August 2020 14:33:02 Chris Albertson wrote:
> "TPU" has a wide range of properties depending on the brand. This is
> good because you can match it to what you need from very soft to a
> kind of hard rubber. It is harder to print and not the best for
> Bowden tube printers. It is
"TPU" has a wide range of properties depending on the brand. This is good
because you can match it to what you need from very soft to a kind of hard
rubber. It is harder to print and not the best for Bowden tube printers.
It is like trying to push a rubber band dow the tube. My printer has
On Monday 17 August 2020 05:21:28 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 8/17/20 3:52 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > This one is printing at the same scale as the output shaft, which I
> > just remade after finding they were to big to enter the main bearing
> > even with help from the assembly screws. So this will
On 8/17/20 3:52 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> This one is printing at the same scale as the output shaft, which I just
> remade after finding they were to big to enter the main bearing even with
> help from the assembly screws. So this will have a smaller bore, which means
> I'll have to make a
On Sunday 16 August 2020 21:33:29 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 8/16/20 8:40 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > And it ran about 5 minutes, broke the cup of the flexgear off at the
> > disk junction. Only 1.2mm thick there, concentrating the wall flex
> > into that relatively sharp corner. Can I fix that in
On 8/16/20 8:40 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> And it ran about 5 minutes, broke the cup of the flexgear off at the disk
> junction. Only 1.2mm thick there, concentrating the wall flex into that
> relatively sharp corner. Can I fix that in cura? How?
Cura should allow you to specify the number of
On Sunday 16 August 2020 18:41:50 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Sunday 16 August 2020 18:24:03 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > -Original Message-
> >
> > > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > >
> > > > Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015. Has problems
> > > > but
The nozzle and heat break have to be screwed into the heater block and
tightened while it's hot. Do that when it's all cold and thermal expansion of
the block loosens up the parts and it leaks.
On Sunday, August 16, 2020, 6:27:12 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
wrote:
On Saturday 15 August 2020
On Sunday 16 August 2020 18:24:03 John Dammeyer wrote:
> -Original Message-
>
> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> >
> > > Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015. Has problems
> > > but overall is like my table saw. I go up to it. Turn it on. Use
> > > it.
-Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015. Has problems but
> > overall is like my table saw. I go up to it. Turn it on. Use it.
> > Turn it off. I've probably printed almost 1000 parts of various types
>
On Sunday 16 August 2020 15:21:24 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> >
> > On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > > What type of 3D printer did you buy?
> >
> > A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
>
> Mine's a CSTAR P802M
On Sunday 16 August 2020 13:51:37 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 8/16/20 1:07 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig,
> > hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig
> > he was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot
On Sunday 16 August 2020 13:51:37 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 8/16/20 1:07 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig,
> > hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig
> > he was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot
On Sunday 16 August 2020 13:07:41 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > What type of 3D printer did you buy?
>
> A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
>
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
>
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
>
> > What type of 3D printer did you buy?
> A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
>
Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015. Has problems but overall is
like my
On 8/16/20 1:07 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig,
> hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig he
> was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot block with it
> sticking out to a piece of 320 sandpaper and
On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
> What type of 3D printer did you buy?
A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > Sent: August-16-20 5:24 AM
> > To:
What type of 3D printer did you buy?
> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> Sent: August-16-20 5:24 AM
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse
>
> On Saturday 15 August 2020
On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:
> Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later today.
I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for a
spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has enough
torque to turn it at over 2.5
Update: Back to production on this ratty bit of plastic. Had a heck of a
time getting the last, and still a bit small, bearing carrier made
yesterday, because the ejector motor was back hopping and I had to slow
the feed rate way down and help the fiber from time to time, coming to
the
While this is late in this thread, and I don't know if this has been
covered, but hackaday had an article on a guy who has a program to
generate cycloidal gears. They may not have as great gear ratios as a
harmonic drive, but might help someone looking over this thread, so here
goes:
I think FreeCAD is what they call "parametric". This means I can do things
like making a square 3X by 2X long and the ratio will always be 3:2. But
I can also make the box 6 by 4. If a scale factor like "X" is used is
totally up to the person who made the part.It is much shared to make a
On Thursday 13 August 2020 05:29:04 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Thursday 13 August 2020 02:17:00 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 2:40 AM Gene Heskett
>
> wrote:
> > > Am I supposed to be able to write the cura output gcode file to
> > > the printers u-sd card while its printing a
On Thursday 13 August 2020 02:17:00 Chris Albertson wrote:
> On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 2:40 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > Am I supposed to be able to write the cura output gcode file to the
> > printers u-sd card while its printing a differennt file? That would
> > be handy, replacing the sneakernet
On Thursday 13 August 2020 02:06:56 Chris Albertson wrote:
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 5:39 PM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > The zip contains a .step file. What does linux use to render/view
> > that? That file does contain the bearing part numbers,
>
> A ".step" file can be opened in any 3D CAD
On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 2:40 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> Am I supposed to be able to write the cura output gcode file to the
> printers u-sd card while its printing a differennt file? That would be
> handy, replacing the sneakernet I'm doing now.
>
I set up Octoprint a while back. It works
On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 5:39 PM Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> The zip contains a .step file. What does linux use to render/view that?
> That file does contain the bearing part numbers,
A ".step" file can be opened in any 3D CAD program. With Linux FreeCAD or
Onshape.
I would suggest just deleting
On Wednesday 12 August 2020 23:30:03 Greg Bernard wrote:
> McMaster-Carr has 4 mm square nuts in stock.
>
Thank you Greg, be shipped in the morning. Had to reset my pw, I'd
changed browsers. But its done.
> On Wed, Aug 12, 2020, 8:39 PM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > On Wednesday 12 August 2020
McMaster-Carr has 4 mm square nuts in stock.
On Wed, Aug 12, 2020, 8:39 PM Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 12 August 2020 15:55:39 grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
>
> > On Wed, 12 Aug 2020, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > > On Wednesday 12 August 2020 12:45:14 grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
> > >>
On Wednesday 12 August 2020 15:55:39 grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Aug 2020, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Wednesday 12 August 2020 12:45:14 grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
> >> gene, how is this project come'n
> >> i keep look'n for pictures on your web site
> >
> > That will happen
On Wed, 12 Aug 2020, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Wednesday 12 August 2020 12:45:14 grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
gene, how is this project come'n
i keep look'n for pictures on your web site
That will happen eventually but progress was slow when I started out with
a printer that was totally
On Wednesday 12 August 2020 12:45:14 grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
> gene, how is this project come'n
> i keep look'n for pictures on your web site
>
That will happen eventually but progress was slow when I started out with
a printer that was totally uncalibrated OOTB. So once I got that
gene, how is this project come'n
i keep look'n for pictures on your web site
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On Monday 20 July 2020 10:08:16 Martin Dobbins wrote:
> >The zip contains a .step file. What does linux use to render/view
> > that? That file does contain the bearing part numbers, so that
> > helps, if my print is rendering the correct size.
>
> Freecad will open .step files.
>
> Martin
>
Means
>The zip contains a .step file. What does linux use to render/view that?
>That file does contain the bearing part numbers, so that helps, if my
>print is rendering the correct size.
Freecad will open .step files.
Martin
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On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Layer-by-layer lets you see that. Most Thingiverse files suggest a
> > print direction and support options.
>
> An option I haven't found yet because the instant you do anything to the
> preview, it erases it presumably because the gcode is
On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 10:40, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Am I supposed to be able to write the cura output gcode file to the
> printers u-sd card while its printing a differennt file?
I wouldn't expect so.
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the
On Monday 20 July 2020 07:04:21 andy pugh wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 11:50, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > Those two inspection points are before the STL is created and
> > > after it has been used. (the Cura preview is a G-code preview)
> >
> > I've never seen video on the preview tab.
>
> I
On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 11:50, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Those two inspection points are before the STL is created and after it
> > has been used. (the Cura preview is a G-code preview)
>
> I've never seen video on the preview tab.
I have no idea what you mean.
What I mean is, in the preview tab,
On Monday 20 July 2020 05:49:19 andy pugh wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 10:40, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > Some, but at much higher resolutions than what is being laid down in
> > plastic. My point is that .stl's obtained from non-openscad src's,
> > are reproduced much more accurately.
On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 10:40, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Some, but at much higher resolutions than what is being laid down in
> plastic. My point is that .stl's obtained from non-openscad src's, are
> reproduced much more accurately. Openscad's tooth profile for an XL
> pulley is good. Any smaller
On Monday 20 July 2020 04:15:59 andy pugh wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 01:01, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > And I can say without fear of contradiction the openscad IS the
> > problem,
>
> Or your application of OpenSCAD is at fault?
>
> Have you tried looking closely at the layer preview in Cura?
On Mon, 20 Jul 2020 at 01:01, Gene Heskett wrote:
> And I can say without fear of contradiction the openscad IS the problem,
Or your application of OpenSCAD is at fault?
Have you tried looking closely at the layer preview in Cura? Does that
show facets?
You can experiment with STL resolution
On Sunday 19 July 2020 20:30:35 John Dammeyer wrote:
> This may well be a dumb question Gene, but given you have the machine
> shop and CNC couldn't you make the gears etc yourself out of metal?
> John
>
Thats why I bought a BS-1, John but I'm only about $250 into motorizing
it yet, waiting on a
On Sunday 19 July 2020 19:58:44 Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
>
> And I can say without fear of contradiction the openscad IS the
> problem,
>
> I am current about 2mm up of a print of the outside gear of the drive,
> and the teeth are 100% filled and very well formed so far, its the
>
This may well be a dumb question Gene, but given you have the machine shop and
CNC couldn't you make the gears etc yourself out of metal?
John
> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> Sent: July-19-20 4:59 PM
> To: 'Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)'
>
Greetings all;
And I can say without fear of contradiction the openscad IS the problem,
I am current about 2mm up of a print of the outside gear of the drive,
and the teeth are 100% filled and very well formed so far, its the best
rendering I've seen on the build bed yet, so much better than
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