RE: [Elecraft] [K3] Question about TX gain calibration
Toby: For what it may be worth... I saved a LOT of time running this sequence by performing ALL of the 5W calibrations at one time... leaving the power set to 5W and running through each band... then, resetting power to 50W and running through each band again. MUCH FASTER than having the jump from 5W to 50W on EACH band as you step from band to band. And there is no difference in the calibration. 73, Tom N0SS 'At 14:48 11/11/2007, Ed Muns wrote: When doing the TX gain calibration (page 46/47 of the Owner's Manual): 1) Does TECH MD have to be on or off? I assume on. No. All TECH MD does is allow you to view more parameters in the CONFIG menu, but that is irrelevant to this calibration procedure. 2) Does one need to be in the TXGN menu? No. 3) Set Power to exactly 5/50/.001 watts somewhere in the K3 display or adjust power until the reading on the external (hopefully) accurate RF power meter is 5/50/.001 watts? And then check the reading on the VFO-B display? Turn the POWER control to set power at 5 or 50 watts. Hold TUNE and let it run for 1-2 seconds (until the power display settles). 4) Go to next band and repeat 3... Yes. 73, Ed - W0YK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Co-ax for the K2
Art: Most (maybe some) marine radio shops regularly use white RG-58 and RG-8X sized coaxes. 73, Tom N0SS At 17:50 11/12/2007, you wrote: Greetings, Can anyone recommend a WHITE coax for antenna lead of about 40-50' ? My XYL is very fussy about wires showing and black sticks out like a sore thumb. Would the coax used by TV cable installers work ok? I'm only running 100 W max. That's the only white coax I've seen. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 73's, Art K6KFH No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1126 - Release Date: 11/12/2007 12:56 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] computer headset for K2/K3 SSB
Hi Julian: You might have saved a bit of time if you had found this page: http://www.g4ilo.com/k2_headset.html , Chris. Mine works fine with VOX, though I'm not a big fan of phone either. Once you get your K3, and try to silky-smooth VOX _it_ offers, you might change your mind. I'm (still) not a 'fan' of phone either, but I must admit (grudgingly) that the K3 has taken a LOT of my dislikes away... Did I just day that...? Jeri, quick... come wash my mouth out with soap!!! 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Newbie Question re: SSB
Hi Bob: I understand that Elecraft transceivers to date have really been a CW ops dream, which leads me to the following question re the K3: Will phone (SSB) operators find this rig as wonderful with regard to voice as CW operators do with CW? Just finished operating in the SS Phone... NOT my most favorite MODE of operating, though I DO enjoy the Sweepstakes... Because of family commitments, I did not spend a lot of time in the contest, but I did manage to quite easily knock out well over 100 Q's with my K3. I used one of the older Heil ProSet headphone/boom mic combinations, with the Heil HC5 (wider range than the HC4) element, because I didn't like the highly- restricted audio range of the HC4. I haven't touched the settings on the 8-band (TX or RX) audio equalizer, so everything there was 'stock', just like it came from Elecraft. I'll also note that, antenna-wise, I have a Bencher SkyHawk tribander at 73 feet and a tri-band (80-40-30) dipole (Inv-V) with the apex at 72' and the ends down around 20' off the ground. Being a CW operator at heart, I'm accustomed to operating full QSK on CW, so I saw little reason NOT to try it on SSB as well... or at least as close to full QSK VOX SSB as I could anyway. I set the VOX DELAY to .05 (50 mS), and the MIC IN, VOX GN and ANTIVOX to points where I cold readily trip the VOX with normal level voice speech, and to where nothing coming out of the back side of the headphones would cause the VOX to 'false'. Of course, using headphones, the setting of the ANTIVOX was not terribly critical, but I was also able to set it so that the VOX didn't false when I had the cans unplugged from the rig as well. I first adjusted the MIC IN to give me essentially FULL ALC on the K3's LCD meter. Then I adjusted the MIC CMP (compression) to give me a nice 'full' output pattern on the monitor scope. This corresponded to about 101-2 dB of compression... the effect of the CMP control was REALLY VERY EASY TO SEE, both on the monitor scope AND on the RF WATTMETER...! Dramatic increase in average output. I did some testing prior to the start of the SS, getting both audio quality and intelligibility reports from a number of operators. To a man, every report of audio quality was more than glowing! I had one report, from a non-contester, which said he'd prefer to hear a bit less compression, but that what he was' hearing during the test was 'clean' and 'very clear' with 'no distortion', and no clipping of the first syllable of each word as the VOX went on/off between some words and phrases. A number of reports took the time to volunteer that what they were hearing did NOT sound like the 'normal contest audio setting'. I ran QRP (5W) in the SS, which is a bit more challenging, not only for the user, but also for the guy on the other end, trying to copy my signals thru some really BIG QRM. Though there obviously were times when I didn't get the guy I was calling, and some times when repeats were required, I'd say that fully 90% of the time I got my station on the first call. Additionally, I received MANY(!) completely UNsolicited comments of GREAT SIGNAL and GREAT AUDIO from other ops who generally won't give you the time of day when they're trying to knock out as many Qs as possible and offering such comments just takes away from their available time to make more Q's. How did the receiver perform? Very well...! I found that I'd probably have been better off had I added a 2.1kHz or possibly a 1.8kHz SSB filter to my SSB arsenal, but even with only the 2.8kHz roofing filter available, I was generally able to 'peel off' much of the nearby QRM and get the other guy's report on the first pass... no requests for repeats required. Narrowing down the DSP B/W from 2.8kHz to around 2.4kHz and then adjusting the SHIFT up/dn a bit, on order to roll off QRM from the top/bottom made copying other stations in the presence of QRM fairly easy... MUCH easier than with my K2 OR with my TS-950SD...! The K3's front end is virtually UNCRUNCHABLE!!! I have a local, W4RK, who lives almost within rock-throwing distance of me (probably 1/2 mile) and who runs a 1kW in contests. I found numerous occasions where I'd roll up on a frequency, work my station, only to find that Bill was 1-2 kHz away and I never knew it at all...! I hope I wasn't giving him (his FT-2000) any problems, being that close to him!!! I ran my AGC in FAST mode the entire contest and never noticed one instance where a really big nearby signal prevented me from copying/working the station I was trying to work... just didn't happen. Back to the VOX for just a second... it was just 'sweet'... I was easily able to work stations, talking at normal voice levels, and still tell if someone started talking while I was sending a report, thus allowing me to stop talking and allow them to either come back to someone else, or to ask for an immediate fill. Not quite full QSK SSB VOX, but certainly much closer than ANY I've ever been able to
RE: [Elecraft] 40 METER ECN 17 Dec 20m
Hi Ron: I HEARD(!) only two (2) stations on 40M last night... KT5X (NM) and KT5E (CO). I called for check-ins from 0300Z thru 0310Z and those (two) were the ONLY signals I heard a peep from... usually, I can hear MUCH more than that.. guess the propagation gods weren't looking down on us last night... or possibly they WERE looking down... and LAUGHING! Oh well, there's always NEXT WEEK! Hmmm Christmas Eve... wonder if we'll have a Net then. If so, I'll be there. Thanks to those who at least TRIED to QNI. 73, Tom N0SS At 09:19 PM 12/17/2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I was around at 0300 and heard one station calling ECN? on 7045. He never signed a call. I finally called CQ ECN about 0310 and he came back with a ?? But again no call. I gave up after several tries. That was the only station I heard on 7045 or anywhere within 20 kHz of that frequency. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ECN Report for 18 Dec 2006
Hi Folks: Last night's propagation left a bit to be desired... actually, it left a WHOLE LOT to be desired...! Here's the dreary report... ECN 20M 12/18/2006 N0SS TOM MOK2/1000008 K6DGW FRED CAK2/1004298 AC7AC RON ORK21289 NK6A DON CAK2/100 WA7BOCROGER WAK20755 W3MC MIKE MD N7NLU KARL ORK21663 VE3XL RIC ONK20968 Thanks to Fred, K6DGW for pulling Mike, W3MC, out of the background noise. When Mike first attempted to QNI, I had my beam on the west coast, but Mike was still 569. However, by the time I went back to Mike (after checking-in N7NLU) Mike's signal had gone into the dumpster... even when I'd turned the beam back east, I was hearing only a peep from Mike... Fortunately, Fred was dogged enough to catch Mike's call after several repeated attempts. By the time the net was over, Mike was back up to 579/599 status... go figger. To those on the east coast, and ANYWHERE other than the west coast, we really DID try to find you... I called with the beam in all directions, and Fred called several times as well... just no discernible responses. on 20M. ECN 40M 12/18/2006 N0SS TOM MOK2/1000008 KT5X FRED NMK20700 KT5E JAY COK25037 40M was even worse!!! I managed a nice pre-net QSO with Fred, KT5X, and then, had it not been for Fred and Jay (KT5E), I'd have been all by my lonesome... at least as far as I could hear. I called and called, but to what appeared to be a nearly dead band. And I had virtually NO BACKGROUND NOISE to speak of, so it wasn't because of interference... but to absorption...! Oh well, there's always NEXT WEEK...! THANKS to those of you who were able to check into the nets. For those of you who might be concerned about Kevin and his well-being following the horrible winds the Pacific Northwest has experienced... here are a few comments from an e-mail recently received from Kevin... Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 22:13:04 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Just got phone service an hour ago. I am now running off battery power through an inverter. I have over a thousand messages to wade through via webmail. I am running a laptop which does not pull mail from the server. I am OK, rattled to the extreme, but OK. It took quite a while to stop shaking after the tree fell a few feet from where I was sitting. I was in the strongest part of the house and to windward. The tree limbs were flying over that part of the house but not at the windows. None were broken. Drywall and broken branches exploded through the new room and the rest of the house. Every few feet there was a hole through the roof. If I'd have been anywhere but where I was I most likely would have holes in me too! Power may be back on by Thursday. I have not found the other end of the broken G5RV or the tree which was supporting it. If the trees were not in straight lines I would say we had been hit by a tornado. Hundreds of trees are down on my twenty acres. The four Trojan T-105 (backup batteries) started at 12.7 volts. They are down to 12.2 volts now after booting a desktop unit to tranfer files to the laptop and running the IC-706 for comms. I still have a J-pole up so I got my nephew to help me limb the hemlock and cover the roof with plastic. Luckily the wind and rain came to an end. It has snowed but that is not as bad. The water I had standing by in five gallon buckets froze but that simply made it easier to transfer into the bathroom. I used a pan to transfer the top few inches in the toilet tank and the poured to the fill line. I've run out of back up water so am going to a beaver pond tomorrow to steal some of their's. I don't think they will mind because their pond is spring fed. I'll get a few more days of flushing water. I have cut my way down the mountain and have gotten more supplies. I did heat some water on the wood stove for shaving and washing. I hope to be back on the air but if priorities push the antenna launch date off that is the way it goes. If I get power this week it will ease my burden. Sure is nice to have Internet contact again! I will stay in touch and keep you apprised of my progress. Any ideas on who to call to lift off the hemlock tree? Kevin. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Don Brown the Solar Controller Man?
Hi Ken: Had been regularly communicating with Don Brown KD5NDB for a while on a solar project. Haven't received any response from my latest two e-mails on Dec 9th or the 13th. Hope all is OK. Dose anyone know if there's a problem? Don IS OK!!! I spoke with him a week or so ago, following your previous post. He had some health concerns a while back, but says he's doing well now. He said he THOUGHT he'd answered all of his pending e-mails, but I think he mentioned that he might have been LOSING some e-mails as well. Give him another try. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] solder
Robert Johansen wrote: I found an interesting article on the internet regarding Lead free solder: http://www.jgpp.com/projects/lead_free_soldering/03_27_02_presentations/bmamsg.pdf For those who visit this document, the Lead-Free Solder tests begin on page 10 of this document. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: N0SS' Ham Radio-related files moved to N0SS.NET
Hi Leigh: The img link to your email address at the bottom is broken. Perhaps that's on purpose... Yeah... it's on purpose. Folks can SEE the address, but the spammers can't just come in and steal it because it's an image, not text. BTW, do you sell the boards for your designs? I'd like to put the zerobeat board into the K2 I'm building. I made PC boards back in the 70's but not double sided... My boards aren't double-sided either... I've made double-sided before, but, for a kitchen-made PC board, they're generally a LOT more hassle than they're worth. But, thanks to an idea from a local, I now have a method by which making them (the two negatives) line up is a LOT easier. I'll share it with anyone who might be interested. Yes, I do offer boards for almost all of my projects. Boards for the KR5L Zero Beat LED Indicator are $5 ppd to your door. And I now also offer a similar board, with circuit design by Bob Wolbert (K6XX) http://www.qsl.net/k6xx/ikanrite.htm#vizicw which uses an Exar XR-2211 chip instead of the PLL. I'm told that this design does a better job of 'following' the CW as it's received... also $5 ppd. I can supply a PDF of either of these projects before you buy/build them. 73, Tom N0SS
Re: [Elecraft] N5ESE's T1 review -- excellent, but one correction
Hi Leigh: Despite my tightening the screw on the GND lug with needle-nose, it was loose after I soldered it. I don't know if it will get loose again. Perhaps I have the washer in the wrong place. For what it may be worth, I used a flat washer on BOTH sides of the plastic case (up against the case itself). Then, I used a hand-held socket to tighten the nut. Using the flat washers allowed me to apply a higher amount of force to tighten the nut since they spread the compressive forces out of a slightly wider area of plastic. I also used two flat washers between the nut and the thumbscrew, so I can sandwich the wire between the washers and not have the thumbscrew try to expel the wire as it's being tightened down. I also used a slightly longer screw and then used a pair of heavy-duty wire cutters to impart a 'bunged-up thread' right at the end of the screw. this keeps the thumbscrew from being accidently unscrewed and lost. 73, Tom N0SS
Re: [Elecraft] amplifier keying
William (Bill?): At 05:09 AM 1/2/2007, Bill Langford wrote: If I build the K2, how could I key my Ameritron ALS-600 amp? Is anyone out there driving an amp with their K2? Yes, many are... See: http://www.n0ss/net/k2_t-r_rly_drvr.pdf The link includes complete documentation for the addition of this K2 (Basic) External T-R Relay Key Kit. This link is also available on the Elecraft web site at: http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm# drop down to K2 PARTS AND MOD KITS, and then you'll find it at the bottom of that specific listing. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] amplifier keying
William (Bill?): Contrary to what some have replied, you DO NOT have to have the KPA100 in order to drive an external amp to anywhere from 150W-600W output (depending upon your amp). The K2 will drive most amps pretty well even with the 15W available from the 'basic' rig. Of course, if you do want full output from your amp, them the KPA100 will be the better choice of driver. In which case you WILL NOT require the device suggested below! The AMPKEYKIT (below) is only required if you have the bare bones K2... the KPA100 and the K60XV (60M converter) option both include MOSFET drivers capable of keying external amps. 73, Tom N0SS At 05:09 AM 1/2/2007, Bill Langford wrote: If I build the K2, how could I key my Ameritron ALS-600 amp? Is anyone out there driving an amp with their K2? Yes, many are... See: http://www.n0ss/net/k2_t-r_rly_drvr.pdf The link includes complete documentation for the addition of this K2 (Basic) External T-R Relay Key Kit. This link is also available on the Elecraft web site at: http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm# drop down to K2 PARTS AND MOD KITS, and then you'll find it at the bottom of that specific listing. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] amplifier keying - earlier version from Elecraft - for sale
And, if you have the parts, I _do_ offer bare PC boards for the kit for $6 (USD) ppd to your (US) mailbox... $7 (USD) to DX addresses. 73, Tom N0SS At 08:05 AM 1/2/2007, Siu Johnny wrote: Hi Group, I have recently upgraded my amplifier keying with Tom's kit. In the past, Elecraft also sold an amp keying kit at US$5 plus postage. This earlier version consists of two 2N7000 with similar working principle of Tom's kit. This kit is now surplus to me. It is a completed kit and ready to be installed in K2. If any of you are interested, please email me off the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] I shall let you have it at US$4 to cover my ordinary airmail postage + packing materials from HK to US. 73 Johnny Siu VR2XMC From: Joe-aa4nn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Joe-aa4nn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: William Langford [EMAIL PROTECTED],elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] amplifier keying Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2007 06:34:22 -0500 You'll need the K2/100, of course. Then you key the amp with the PA Key out (RCA Jack) connection on the rear panel of the KPA100. Easy. de Joe, aa4nn _ ÓëÊÀ½ç¸÷µØµÄÅóÓѽøÐн»Á÷£¬Ãâ·ÑÏÂÔØ Live Messenger; http://get.live.com/messenger/overview ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 with LK-500Z
Hi Ron: Is there any reason to use a keying interface between these two? The K2 manual says the PA key circuit handles 1 amp at 200v DC. The LK manual doens't say what the exact specs are, but from the schematic it looks like the LK uses 12V for the TX relay. I'm an appliance operator so sure would appreciate advice before I key the amp direct from the rig. Nope, none whatsoever... the MOSFET at the T-R output of the KPA100 is more than adequate to key just about any T-R line which offers a POSITIVE DC voltage less than about 200VDC and 5A... UNfortunately, it will NOT (directly) key some of the older amp T-R lines which offered negative voltages. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft ECN Report
Hi Folks: Both 20M and 40M were 'difficult' at best last night... at lease from the midwest. However, I must say that Mark, W7/G3XYS, with his KX1, had by far THE BEST signal into mid-Missouri on 20M last night. Of course, I realize it's just propagation, but I did want mention his great signal and to welcome Mark to the ECN... hope he's having fun out there in Park City UT... must be hard duty... G 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NEED TO VISIT THIS LINK (was: Rf chokes too large?)
EVERYONE WHO BUILDS A NEW ELECRAFT KIT SHOULD READ THIS APPLICATION NOTE!!! It deals with the fact that Elecraft appears to have bitten the bullet and substituted heavier-duty (and slightly larger) RFCs for many of the sub-mini RFCs used in their kits. The end product will be fewer damaged RFCs and happier builders. BUT you do NEED to know how to handle/install the newer RFCs since they might not fit directly into the available holes... here's how. http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder_Alert_Installing_Small_Chokes.htm Thanks to Elecraft for this app note! 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft: K2 Audio Problem
Hi Ron (and Bernie) At 05:53 PM 1/9/2007, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I hope Bernie takes you up on it, Gregg! I'd love to see one of the 'anemic' units myself. One of the people who has worked on one (I think he might own it) is Tom, N0SS, but I never heard if he found a solution. Yes, I did work on my K2 (s/n 0008) to try to improve what I felt was lo AF output. I don't think it was ever quite as bad as Bernie portrayed his as being.. mine was just a bit 'impotent'.. so to speak... I solved my problem with a Motorola Amplified speaker... NO PROBLEMS NOW!!! For me, I think some of my perceived problem was that the speaker points up, rather than forward... from my 'barefoot' (no ext. spkr) K2, I can obtain adequate, though probably not what I'd call 'loud', output with the AF Gain set to 11 o'clock or so... 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT - W9C Special Event Stn Needs a little help tomorrow (Saturday)
Greetings: You may have read my posting (yesterday) regarding the Special Event Station (W9C) which will be in operation to commemorate the 90th Anniversary of the first transcontinental passing of a formal message via radio. More info available at: http://www.newstribune.com/articles/2007/01/23/community/342com01.prt Our station will start operating at 2000Z, 27 JAN 2007, on 14.040 MHz (+/- QRM), using the callsign W9C. We will have relatives of the 18 year old operator (9ABD) who was the middle leg of this historic event present at our station and one of them will initiate out first CQ from W9C. I'd really like to ensure that this initial CQ is met with a response from another station... and I'm asking for some help to ensure that this wish comes true. If you have the time and inclination to help us out, please be listen for us on (or near) 14.040 MHz at 2000Z tomorrow (Saturday) and respond to your CQ. Obviously, there's a chance that several stations may respond... we will probably come back to the strongest caller, because that will be the best 'show' for those present and observing the operation, BUT we will make every effort to respond to ALL CALLERS, regardless of how long it takes. Thanks for your time and I hope we will be able to work you this weekend from W9C. 73, Tom N0SS for The Mid-MO ARC 9ABD 90th Anniv Celebration ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Hi Kevin: Another fun week. At least I was able to get on the air a number of times. Plus today: I'd been searching for W9C and finally got them on 40 meters. Sunday morning, I was about 10 feet away when you worked Bryan (W0ESE), the operator at W9C. UNfortunately, I didn't know you'd worked us until I checked the logs about 10 minutes later! You should have had him call me or at least said HI...! Heheh! We finished with just under 300 Q's for the 24 hours. We did NOT operate CW the entire time. In fact, about 60% of our operation this time was on SSB... actually the FIRST time we've really had any(!) participation from our fone ops for ANY of our Special Event operations... we REALLY pushed for participation from ALL of our Club members this time... and it worked, BUT it also meant that the CW ops didn't get as much decent operating time... regardless, it was still VERY worthwhile having the fone ops joining us for this activity. I'm just sorry we missed ANYONE. We made a BUNCH of Qs on 80M, but apparently not when you were listening... sorry we missed you there. Operations ended at 2000Z Sunday... took us about 10 minutes to drop the dipole on the roof of the church where we were operating (in 19 degree temps) and another HOUR to disassembly the vertical which (fortunately) was at ground level. I'd had only 2 hours of sleep (1000Z-1200Z Sunday morning), so I opted not to try to QNI ECNs... sorry. 73, Tom ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for February 4th 5th, 2007
Hi Geoff: Of course, DX is welcome to QNI ANY TIME!!! Cheers, Tom At 08:27 AM 2/6/2007, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote: Kevin KD5ONS wrote: Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for February 4th 5th, 2007 However, some of the new procedure worked. Hail signs made it easy to copy folks first time (if the QSB did not eat you up first). But calling by the numbers needs a little revision. I think I will name the five areas instead. How about 1, 2, 3 as NE; 4 as SE; 8, 9 as Lakes (Great Lakes); 0, 5 as Central; and 6, 7 as West. -- Kevin, Would you like to consider adding 'DX' to the areas you name, after 'West' might be the right time before returning to 'NE'? 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Grounding X7-X11
Dave: Do the crystals, X7-X11 NEED to be grounded on both sides? I see the concern about heat and will comply, but I have VERY large hands and do not want to attempt to ground both sides if it is not needed. Thanks I've found it to be much more difficult to ground the xtals AFTER THE FACT... I found it a lot easier to attach the grounding wires BEFORE I inserted and soldered xtals onto the PC board. It's not difficult to use clipped component leads and pre-attach them to the sides of the xtals and THEN install the xtals and grounding wires all at one time. By pre-viewing the PC board holes for each xtal, it's not difficult to get a pretty good idea of where the grounding leads need to be installed onto the sides of the xtal. And the grounding leads can be bent just a bit, AFTER being attached to the xtal case, in order to achieve proper seating of the xtal. Hope this helps. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] k1 back light clear plastic covering?
Hi Tom: In the process of installing the back light for my K1 # 1848, The instructions stated to remove the clear plastic that covers the front of the back light. I don't see this clear plastic sheet? I just happen to have fifty (50) of the future K1 backlights on my desk right now, to be cut into two pieces for K1 backlights. Looking at this supply, it appears that they no longer have the clear plastic cover over the opaque plastic cover on the front of the backlight. So I guess that particular part of the instructions is no longer applicable. If it ain't there... don't sweat it. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] Builder Alert: Wiring the New Type of K2 External Speaker Jack
Chuck: Try: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder's%20Alert%20New%20K2%20Speaker%20Jack%20Rev%20A.pdf The link (for some odd reason) failed to be properly highlighted in the original posting from Brian Broggie. 73, Tom N0SS At 12:44 PM 2/13/2007, you wrote: Is anyone else having trouble downloading this latest Builder's alert? I'm not getting it from the website, although I can download the Soldering Tutorial just below it. I tried copying and pasting the .pdf address from the subject original message to no avail. I'd really like to see this, as my K2 external speaker jack has never worked. 73, Chuck NI0C K2 s/n 5853 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Looking for a specific dummyload link
Folks: A few (maybe several... or many, I forget) months back someone posted to this reflector a link to an equipment (used/surplus equipt. I think) which offered a number of different really nice dummy loads (good to at least 1.2HHz) for extremely reasonable prices. Among those dummy loads offered were those for 15W, 65W, and 150W... all had N-connector input connections. I believe all were probably originally salvaged from CelWave circulators as I bought a CelWave circulator ($50) at Dayton last year which contains ALL THREE of the above mentioned dummy loads. I now have several locals looking to purchase dummy loads for themselves and this site would be the perfect source. They are great lil dummy loads, and even better when the price is considered. If you happen to have the link, or know if it, please forward it to me. Thanks for your time. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Call off the dogs! Dummy load link HAS BEEN FOUND
Thanks to a number(!) of folks who provided the exact link I was looking for... http://ridgeequipment.com/store/dummyloads.html The specific dummy loads I was inquiring about were their models 1983 (15W), 1973 (they show 75W, CelWave sez 65W), AND 2308 (200w, CelWave sez 150w). The prices are great and they work very well. MANY THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPONDED. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT/100 not working
Hi Charles: There are MANY KAT100s out there, and to my knowledge, there have been no such firmware problems reported. Rather than expecting damage, were I you, UNLESS you truly SUSPECT damage for some reason other than PURE MAGIC, I'd start looking for an UNsoldered joint, or possibly a poorly-soldered joint. That fact that the KAT100 once worked (and apparently properly) tends to imply that everything is in its place. However, it only takes one 'flakey' connection to cause problems. Sometimes a flakey connection will allow things to work for a period of time, but then, after a few days, the connection will build up a thin layer of oxidation which acts as an insulator and then only allows the connection to appear to work correctly following a bit of 'agitation' (movement, or other jolt to cause the oxidation to be broken for a short time). Good luck, Tom HammondN0SS My KAT/100 was completed and put into service on 28th January 2007. Today (2nd March) it was working on 80m when first switched on. I changed frequency from 3525 to 3577 and it would not retune. Normally this would have been retuned instantly. Now it will not tune on low power into a dummy load on any band except 40m. When trying to tune on low power into the dummy load on other bands it mostly comes to rest at 5:1 or some other unworkable SWR. My suspiscion is that this is a firmware glitch. Is there any way that I can confirm this? I have removed the lid for visual inspection and can see no obvious signs of damage. I would be most grateful for any helpful advice. The K2/100 is still working perfectly but through a manual matching unit :-) Charles - M0BIN - K2/100 Nr 5901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Inventory
Heath, if I recall, used to ID some devices by SIZE, specifically a scale-drawn illustration you could lay the suspect component against. Might work in this case, esp. since Elecraft used several different SIZES of RFC in their kits... if all the same color, and possibly the same color coding, the only difference will be size. But I don't look for them to go out and immediately reprint that (just printed) batch of new manuals... G. 73, Tom At 12:42 PM 3/2/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote: Kristena, IMHO it is a mistake for a kit manufacturer to attempt to identify components by body colors. The ROHS compliant changes at Elecraft over the past year or more have pointed out the futility of that attempt. Identifying the component body color was likely an effort to help the builder, but by initially doing that, the effort has now caused more confusion. A component can be one color today and another color tomorrow (except for the color code bands). 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi all, I was recently doing inventory on my new K2, and on page 5 of the RF section I found a slight discrepancy. In the description of RFC4, RFC5, RFC8, RFC9, and RFC7, it says they have green bodies. However mine have the same color bands but have tan bodies. Will this make any difference? Thanks for the help! 73, Kristina -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.5/707 - Release Date: 3/1/2007 2:43 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tororids
Hi Al (or is it Dianne?)... no sig, can't tell... sorry! I'm having trouble tinning my toroid leads. In spite of rigorous cleaning they just don't want to accept solder ( Kester 44 ). Will adding some paste flux interfere with electrical qualities of the leads ? Adding flux won't hurt... BUT, it won't help either!!! Chances are that it's HEAT you're lacking! 1) What are you using for your soldering device? 2) Is is controllable with regard to temperature? 3) How long are you applying the heat to the wire? 4) Are you starting at the CUT END of the wire, or at the middle of the wire? Here's the technique which I've used for years. It's seldom failed to yield satisfactory results: 1) MAKE CERTAIN THE WIRE YOU WANT TO TIN USES HEAT-STRIPPABLE ENAMEL (otherwise, you'll waste a LOT of time...) 2) Cut the wire to length 3) Set soldering iron to STUN (actually, 750-800 deg F) and allow it to come up to temp. 4) Set iron on desk so the FLAT of the tip is horizontal. 5) Melt a small blob of solder onto the flat side of the tip. 6) Insert the CLIPPED TIP(!) of the wire into the solder blob and leave it there for 3-4 seconds. If you really DO have heat- strippable enamel AND if the iron tip temp is adequate, the enamel should begin to bubble and smoke in 3-4 seconds (IF you stuck the CUT (bare copper) tip of the wire into the solder). 7) Once the enamel starts to bubble and smoke, apply a bit more solder to the tip and advance the wire thru the 'blob', until you've melted all of the enamel and left a coating of solder on the wire. 8) Reverse the process... slowly remove the wire be pulling it out of the blob in the same manner as when you inserted it. This should leave you with a nicely tinned lead, but possibly one with some 'dross' remaining on the lead. 'Dross' is the burnt enamel which can usually be pretty easily stripped off the lead by merely scraping a fingernail against it. It is IMPORTANT to insert the CLIPPED TIP of the wire into the solder blow, because you want the bare copper to be the first thing to contact the heat... bare copper conducts heat MUCH more quickly than trying to 'force' the heat thru a layer of enamel. Good luck, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Toroid enamel covering
Bruce/Dianne: I am curious about the removal of toroid wire enamel covering material in preparation for winding. Is it essential that bare wire not touch the toroid ring? Most of the toroidal cores (ferrite, colored cores) used in Elecraft kits are NON-CONDUCTIVE, so it's not nearly as important to not have a bear wire touching the core. However, some of the non-ferrite cores may be somewhat conductive. I usually try to tin the lead up about halfway PAST the bottom edge of the core, so that when I install the inductor, and when I PULL on the lead, to snug it down, I'll pull the TINNED part of the wire into the plated-thru hole while NOT pulling in any UNTINNED part of the lead. Hope this helps a bit. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] HF Digital interface for the K2...
Don Wilhelm, W3FPR, offers a really nice fixed output interface for the K2. However, it may NOT offer output of the CW SIDETONE, since that comes in on a different input port to the AF amp and is not currently sampled by the fixed output amp. Contact Don at: Don Wilhelm W3FPR [EMAIL PROTECTED] 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 11:18 AM 3/10/2007, Peter wrote: Hi A small audio amp. and you have fixed audio level at the back. http://www.pi4cc.nl/personal/pc2a/k2/ Peter PC2A Tony Lyon schreef: Jamie, Thanks Being able to connect to the J5 connector looks like it will do the trick. I looked in the K2 manual and I noticed that the J5 AF output is derived directly from pins 4 and 5 of the NE602 product detector. So, my next question is:. Does the NE602 have enough output drive to drive the AF input of a RigEXpert? 73, Tony Lyon (KJ5XF) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie
Hi Pete: I'm always the 'late' one to reply it seems... The KNB2 is a very good blanker... on CERTAIN noise types... but, as with virtually blankers, you DO have to have the right type of noise. It's generally very good no line noise, sparkplug/elec. mixer/elec. fencer noises as well. If you're interested, download http://www.n0ss.net/knb2_demo.zip from my web site and take a listen to my KNB2 in action. This was NOT a 'set-up' demonstration, I just happened to tune across a 20M signal one day when my line noise was pretty much out of sight, turned the KNB2 on, and the noise disappeared... figgered it was a good demo, so I recorded a bit of it. I have to say as well that there WILL be times when the KNB2 will appear to do NOTHING, even though I feel it should be doing its job on some noise I'm hearing. Though I've not 'scoped out' the noise, it's apparent that it must have some characteristic that the KNB2 doesn't like, or can't cope with, so the noise remains... but in general, the KNB2 works very well... FOR ME anyway! 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 07:44 PM 3/10/2007, you wrote: I have come into possession of a K2/100 with the DSP filter (KDSP2) but does not have the noise blanker (KNB2). Question: (1) Is the noise blanker a worthwhile purchase? Any thoughts would be appreciated. 73, Pete-K8PT B. Peter Treml [EMAIL PROTECTED] 725 W. Magnetic St. www.qrz.com/k8pt Marquette, Mi. 49855 USA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie
Hi Bob: I wonder if those that see no results from the KNB2 have forgotten to remove a jumper or something? I could not operate without the KNB2. I have line noise that runs 20 dB over s9 at my location on 80 meters (almost as bad on 60, 40, 30, and 20) without the KNB2. Operations of any kind would be impractical. Yesterday morning, I had some pretty horrendous line noise, which the KNB2 completely eliminated... then, in the afternoon I had what appeared to be the same noise (at least it SOUNDED the same to my ears), but the KNB2 couldn't do much at all. Same band, same RX settings, same antenna (and pointed in the same direction), same apparent direction of the noise, but something(!) had changed, to the point that the NB couldn't blank it adequately. Of course, the NB in my TS-950SD couldn't/didn't touch it either! But I agree that the KNB2, when it 'sees' an appropriate noise type, is WONDERFUL. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Hi Brett: I got my front panel board done today, and started on the RF board. So far all seems good, very easy to build, at least so far In case anyone is wondering, they are up to SN 6065! I have read a bit here about setting up the filters, and it being critical, and you need the spectrogram software. Well, it seems to me if you need that to set the rig up so it works correctly, it should be included with the kit? You don't NEED Spectrogram, but it does help quite a bit. The last shareware version of Spectrogram (v5.1.7) is available at www.n0ss.net. You can find it on both the K2- and K1-specific pages of this site, along with K2- and K1-specific PDF documcents for ease of using it. Would a spectrum analyzer help? I have a nice HP 8592l that I used on the homebrew receivers, could I use it on the K2 to set the filters up? I'm sure you could use it as well. But you'll have to get info from someone else. I've never had an opportunity to use a real spectrum analyzer in that use. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cable X-Perts RG-8 vs Davis Bury Flex
Hi Jeff: I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something similar? Personal opinion follows... take it for what little it may be worth... The Davis RF Bury-Flex is just about equivalent to Belden 9913 low-loss coax, BUT it's better in the respect that it can be directly BURIED for long periods of time with little degradation in the polyethylene outer covering. I use Bury-Flex exclusively between my Shack and the top of my tower, a total of about 220' for each run. This having been said, and for only a 50-foot run, used on HF, I'd by lying if I said that you'd notice ANY substantive benefit from switching from what you now have to Bury-Flex. Good luck, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 filter adjustment- frequency
Hi Mick: Just about finished building and got the first watts out of my K2. Congratulations! However I need some advice please Whoops... 1. If I tune to a carrier on F1 (ie filter position 1), at the same pitch it is 1 KHz higher on F2,F3 and F4 (which are all the same) Presume this is about BFO adjustment but can't see where to go. Any advice please - apologies in advance as I think this is probably a pretty simple mistake by me!. When you find that one (or more) of your XFIL settings causes you to have to tune 'elsewhere' to 'find' the signal, this is almost always the result of having placed the BFO to the wrong side of the filter's center frequency (e.g. to the opposite sideband). Assuming you are on 40M (or any band BELOW 15M), all of the BFO Freq./DAC values for CW Normal XFILs should be BELOW the recorded center freq. for the filter. For CW REVerse, all values should be ABOVE the filter center frequency. Note that as you narrow the bandwidth of the filter, the filter CENTER freq. will drop slightly, so it's always best to re-check to confirm exactly where the center freq. is when you switch to the next filter setting. However, the filter center will NOT change if merely switching between CW N and CW REV, just as the bandwidths change. If you haven't considered doing so, you might want to try downloading a copy of Spectrogram v5.1.7 from my web site at www.n0ss.net (from the K2-Specific page), and also a copy of the XFIL alignment docs which appear just below the link to download Spectrogram (same page). 2. I find that tuning L1, L2 ,L3 and L4 is very broad - no very obvious peak? Is that right? - receiver seems sensitive enough but a bit low on gain using headphones (without preamp). Without the PREAMP, you may find sensitivity a bit low on 20M and above. Generally sensitivity is more than adequate between 160M and 30M without the preamp. Cheers, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?
Fellas: Stephen W. Kercel wrote: There is one claim that I thought was an exaggeration, until I heard for myself. With the denoiser on and set very aggressive, the audio output in the absence of a signal is so quiet that you'll think that the radio is off. This in no exaggeration. On a quiet band with the denoiser on, I find myself occasionally toggling it off just to verify that the radio is working OK. Like Steve, I've found the Noise Reduction to make received signals 'watery', BUT when I use it (and I ONLY use it mobile) it is absolutely WONDERFUL for nearly making it as though there was a CW SQUELCH feature in the K2. Virtually all(!) background noises disappear and I only hear something when there's an in-band signal present. Sometimes I leave the DSP NR enables throughout the QSO, other times I don't. It depends upon what I'm listening for at the time, but the NR DOES WORK. On the other hand, I have never found the noise blanker to be effective against the kind of noise present in my setting. Again, the experience of different users varies according to their circumstances. I've had GREAT experiences with the NB, and then some less than great as well. MOST(!) times it'll do a very fine job of blanking spikey interference, but then there are times when it's as though I never turned it on. Would I buy either again...yup... BOTH! Though, if you don't need the NR feature of the DSP, the KAF2 is a nice, lower cost alternative for CW reception. I don't operate fone, so I can't comment upon how the DSP works on SSB. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?
Tom: Can you still use the plain audio CW filters once you install the DSP? This DSP is extremely flexible and I can't image that each person couldn't get some settings that will be useful to them, although it may take some time. You can have only one (1) audio filter installed at a time, KAF2 or KDSP2, but not both, sorry. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2- frequencies
Nick: Thanks for replies to my problem with filters - now sorted and I can hear the same signal on all filter settings! Got watts coming out the back but no QSOs - I find that the transmit freq is more than 1 KHz lower than receive (which is about 2 KHz lower than the digital display. Can't find anything on the site to help but yet again sure I am doing something stupid. Sounds as though there's still(!) an XFIL/BFO alignment problem. 1) Confirm that RIT (or XIT) has not been enabled. 2) What SIDETONE tone (ST P) have you selected? 3) Please send me the CAL FIL DAC (or frequency) values you now have for both CWN and CW REV. AND the values for the filter CENTER FREQ. (or DAC value) for each bandwith you've chosen. 4) On what band did you perform the CAL FIL operation? If you did it on on 15M or above, you MUST INVERT the 'sense' of the side- bands... e.g. CWN XFIL values will be ABOVE filter center instead of being BELOW, etc. 40M is probably the best band to use when performing CAL FIL. Cheers, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?
Tom: Most certainly you CAN use the XFIL and DSP in tandem!!! Works nicely. 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 05:09 PM 3/29/2007, you wrote: That is actually what I meant. I am very happy with the crystal filters. I want the option of using them OR the DSP. I already know I like the crystal filters. But I expect to enjoy the DSP as well. Just want options. 73, Tom KG3V ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] headphone jack
Hi Ken: I am now on my second headphone jack they dont seem to support the wieght of a plug and adaptor. I read somewhere of a mod for replacing the normal jack but I can,t find it now. Can anyone help? I saw that e-mail a while back, but I don't recall what was used. For what little it may be worth, I REFUSE to plug ANY 'adaptor' into any of the jacks of my rigs... PERIOD...! If some form of 'adaptation' is required to go from a larger to a smaller diameter connector (or the reverse), I will make a short (6 or so) CABLE with the requisite (adapting) connectors installed on each. Using size-to-size adaptors places a significant amount of stress upon the innards of connector jacks, especially the 3.5mm and 2.5mm styles, which will often cause them to break and/or fail. Using short adaptor CABLES, which reduce the amount of stress by 'remoting' the heavy connecting plugs (and thus the weight) has allowed me to retain all of the original jacks in my K2, and K1, since 1998. Just my personal opinion... YMMV. Cheers, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW filter alignment
Hi Sam: I really didn't want to get into the in depth BFO alignment stuff yet and am hopefully assuming it's on the correct side. My question arose when I wanted to move the previous owners cw center frequency up from 500hz to 600hz. Using the instructions I found on: http://www.n0ss.net/k2_filters_using_gram_v5r17.pdf Everything went well, the center frequency is now 600hz and the filters look and sound nice and tight. Referencing page 8 of the above pdf I ran in to a problem, so it says. The DAC in CW Normal does is not lower than the determined center frequency value. Then I read on page 9 and it says *if* the BFO is on the wrong side, (which the DAC readings would seem to indicate), one or more filter setting would show a shift of the center freq and be more than 200hz off. All the filter settings are dead on, no vfo changes needed when cycling thru the 4 settings. The BFO center frequencies shift downward as the bandwidth is narrowed, so you must determine where 'center' is for each bandwidth. Then, the CW Normal DAC/Freq. values should ALL be below the filter center freq determined for EACH bandwidth selected. And the CW Reverse DAC/Freq. values should all be above filter center. If you can change bandwidths and not have to re-tune the VFO to 'find' the station, chances are that everything is A-OK. However, once the filters are aligned for a selected sidetone frequency, if you change the sidetone freq. the filters will NOT automatically 'track' the change, you must re-align to the new sidetone freq. Some folks got the mistaken impression that tracking was automatic, and it's not. SO what's the deal here, do I ignore the DAC readings? Bandwidths used are 1400, 800, 400, 100. Center freq DAO CW Normal DAO 142 157 135 154 130 152 128 151 These values might well be CORRECT if you are performing the alignment on 15M and above, but they should be wrong if you are performing the alignment on bands below 15M. The recommended band for performing CAL FIL is 40M. Ah the joys of a rig you can actually work on, heheheh. Hope this helps. If not gimme a SHOUT! 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW filter alignment
Sam: Then I read on page 9 and it says *if* the BFO is on the wrong side, (which the DAC readings would seem to indicate), one or more filter setting would show a shift of the center freq and be more than 200hz *correction that was meant to say 20 hz off* off. All the filter settings are dead on, no vfo changes needed when cycling thru the 4 settings. Generally, if one or more filters is set to the opposite sideband, tuning will actually be closer to 800Hz-2kHz, depending upon the Sidetone selected. 73, Tom ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Digital Modes
Gary: I'm thinking of buying the kit for the K2 with the 100 watt PA. I will mainly be operating on Digital modes such as PSK 31 MFSK 16 RTTY and Hellschreiber. I will be using a Tigertronics SL 1+ interface but was wondering if there are any known problems with the K2 and any or all of these modes before I buy the Kit and start building. The KPA100 is a nice 100W amp, BUT it is NOT rated for 100% duty cycle in digital (continuous-duty carrier) modes. In fact, were it me, I'd probably not run it at more than about 40W output if I was using it on a digital mode. You COULD probably run it at somewhat higher output IF: 1) You remoted the KPA100, as MANY(!) have done, to a separate EC2 enclosure, AND 2) IF you took steps to BLOW A LOT of air across the heatsink. At higher continuous duty output power levels, I'd want to pass a LOT of air across both the TOP and the BOTTOM (between the PC board and the heatsink) of the heatsink. Cheers, Tom Hammond ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency adjustment
Nick: Got my K2 on the air on CW and SSB and many thanks to those who have helped me. I now need to get the frequency reading accurately - cannot hear WWV here (today at least) so would appreciate advice on simple means of adjusting C22 accurately. Currently the K reads 0.28 KHz high compared to my FT2000. Second point - just installed NB - I seem to have more noise with the preamp than previously even when off. Does this observation ring any bells or is it my paranoid imagination? Thanks again - esp to Elecraft who got a noise generator kit to me in 6 days over the Easter break - pretty good for Ca to UK. Helped a lot with filter adjustments. If your TS-2000 is capable of generating RF output at 10.000MHz, you now have your own BUILT-IN WWV!!! Turn the POWER on the TS-2000 to ZERO or as far down as it can go. Set the TS-2000 to TX (AM mode if available) on 10.000.00 MHz. Transmit into a dummyload, and you're good to go! Follow the docs for aligning to WWV at 10MHz. If that doesn't work, but IF the TS-2000 offers a 100kHz (or 1MHz) xtal cal. use it as a sign gen, with a short 'sense' antenna connected to the K2 and capacitively coupled to the TS-2000's ANT jack (should be enough for the K2 to hear the xtal calib. Still a source of accurate 10MHz signal. Cheers, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net NCS request
Kevin: I forgot... I should be back home on Saturday night... should be able to TRY to call the Net on Sunday, unless something unforeseen comes up. So I'll PLAN on being available for both nets. I don't think I can do as well as you, but I'll give it a shot... maybe some of the folks out there will help with relays I won't be able to hear, AND will help as NCS from the other coasts. 73, Tom N0SS p.s. C U Friday, maybe around 2 p.m. at OzarkCon At 07:30 PM 4/25/2007, Kevin Rock wrote: Good Evening, Tomorrow morning I am flying out East to attend OzarkCon in Joplin, Missouri. I'll be gone until Monday. I will not be taking a radio. I should be surrounded by rigs while there but am not sure I will get a chance to get on the air. I have not heard (nor read) any offers for taking over as NCS for ECN. It looks like I will have to cancel it for this Sunday. However, that does not mean you can't get on the air and try to raise another KX1, K1, or K2 operator at the appointed time and frequency. I am sure there will be someone listening if you call CQ. So, until the first Sunday in May stay well. Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator on Vacation :) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Now for the real question about the K3!
Hi Lee: Lee Buller (K0WA) wrote: OK Here is the real question. How did you keep the K3 a secret? Lots of guys working on the K3 project plus the testers. How did you keep the secret? Oh... mostly threats of having Vinnie (or Lisa) come over and break our kneecaps...! 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ECN Report for 04/29 04/30 2007
Hi Folks: Conditions were a bit less than optimal tonight, but we did manage to find and pull out a few folks on each net tonight... not nearly as cleanly done as when Kevin calls it though. MANY thanks to those who helped relay in those stations who couldn't hear or or whom I couldn't hear. 73, Tom N0SS _ Any errors in the info below are mine. ECN 20M 04/29/2007 N0SS NM7NKARL KI6WX JOHN KT5EJAY AA4AK STEVE ME K2 5383 K9ZTV/M KENTMO N0ARSCOTT MN K4JPN STEVE GA WG4S DAN GA ECN 40M 04/30/2007 N0SS W6ZHPETECA K1EVBILL VE3XL RIC ON WA7BOC N7KRT JEFFNV K2HYD RAY N0ARSCOTT MN K1THP DAVECT KL7V/5 SAM OK N5SMSCOTT TX K2 5846 K6PJV DALECA W0CZW0CZKEN ND WA3UCR PA KT5EJAY CO KD50NS KEVIN OKAlmost MISSED Kevin when he checked in from KL7V/5(!) W0MFQ TOM WI6OJOHNCA K1 W1TFRALPH VA KI6WX JOHNCA VE3XDB DOUGON W8LRD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 build time and diagnostics
Rick: A while back (well, several DAYS ago) I seem to recall seeing Wayne comment that his take on 'build time' was between 6 and 8 hours. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 09:03 AM 5/1/2007, you wrote: As owner of K2 No. 2005 I look forward to owning a K3 some time in the future. Nice job Elecraft! I haven't yet seen an estimated build time for the K3. The consensus seems the K2 is usually around 40-60 hours for the first time K2 builder. Because of the K3's modular plug in construction I would assume the build time will be much less. Any estimates on the build time? Also, I am curious as to how smart the K3 is in regards to self diagnostics for potential failures of various boards or components. Is there a significant amount of the routine (say compared to the K2) devoted to isolating and detecting faults and failures? And are the boards designed (and/or will Elecraft encourage) for the builder/owner to fix them on site? Or once a potential troublesome board is identified will we normally send it back for repair or exchange? The two items I like the most on my K2 (and other Elecraft product) is firstly the performance and at a close second is I never have to worry about being unable to fix, service, or align the radio. Of course, it is obvious the K3 retains both those qualities. Rick K4LX Bradenton, FL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wish List - K3 with TIVO
Tom: Ya think we could get a TIVO backup in the K3? It's there... if I recall, I think the K3 offers 30-seconds of RX audio playback... maybe longer. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] EQP Results Re-Posted
Folks: Just received a note from Roger, WA7BOC, who thinks he might have had problems with a prior attempt to post the results of the EQP (Elecraft QSO Party) to the reflector. I (personally) saw them, but they were formatted for a proportional font and were pretty unreadable in my fixed-pitch font viewer. Anyway, Roger asked if I'd re-port for him, in case he really did have problems. So here the results are... note that I've taken the liberty of including listings formatted for BOTH proportional AND fixed-pitch fonts, so hop you can easily view one of the two listings. Thanks Rog for all your hard work on this. 73, Tom N0SS _ Hi Tom, A favor to ask of you...I must not be holding my mouth rightbut I am unable to get anything to post on the reflector..something simple I am sure Anyway, I have compiled the 2007 EQP results and submitted them to the reflector as the folks in Aptos are rather busy at the moment, (hmmm, wonder why!!) Here is the message: Here are the preliminary results as I have them from Eric. Amazing that he was able to get them to me before heading out to Visalia!! If you spot any errors, they are mine.let me know and I will edit before submitting to Aptos. The 'soapbox' comments will be compiled as well and sent to Lisa after you have a chance to look over the scoring. Any stragglers that would like to be added Here is your chance. I can not calculate the scores for the first three operators as I have incomplete data. Their data, as submitted, will be in the 'soapbox' comments, however. Need some EQP operating tips? maybe Bob, W1SOC could offer some pointers! 73, Roger WA7BOC, K2 #755 burch.craft at gmail.comsub the @ for at (FORMATTED FOR VIEWING WITH PROPORTIONAL FONTS) CallName QTH Score Rig Serial #'s K4NVJ Joe AL NA K1,K2 764, 4155 N0TK Dan CO NA K2 3652 W1TFRalphGA NA K1 1423 W1SOC Bob FL 269,500 KX1, K1, K270, 438, 64 N7OUBill OR 18,648K2, KX1 437, 385 NB1BDennis MA 15,260 K2 K1EPEdMA 3,591 KX1666 K5OI Tim NM 2,968 K2 63 N1LUDon NH 1,050 KX1 DK0SU TomGermany 960K2 4138 PA0RBO RobNetherlands 875K2 2406 N2WN JuliusTN875K2 4455 WA8SAN Mike OH 560K1 2290 LZ1VB Val Bulgaria 315 K2 2745 K4JPN SteveGA 280 K2 1422 K9FHPhil IL140 TS-2000 RW3AI Valery Russia 140Icom 7800 NI0C Chuck MO 45 K2 5853 JA??? Osugi Japan 21 K1 1470 WA7BOC Roger WA 20 K2755 LA3ZA Sverre Norway8 K2 2198 N0BK BruceMN 5 K2 3646 (FORMATTED FOR VIEWING WITH FIXED-PITCH FONTS) CallNameQTH ScoreRigSerial #'s K4NVJ Joe AL NA K1,K2 764, 4155 N0TKDan CO NA K23652 W1TFRalph GA NA K11423 W1SOC Bob FL 269,500 KX1, K1, K2 70, 438, 64 N7OUBillOR 18,648 K2, KX1 437, 385 NB1BDennis MA 15,260 K2 K1EPEd MA3,591 KX1666 K5OITim NM2,968 K2 63 N1LUDon NH1,050 KX1 DK0SU Tom Germany 960 K24138 PA0RBO Rob Netherlands 875 K22406 N2WNJulius TN 875 K24455 WA8SAN MikeOH 560 K12290 LZ1VB Val Bulgaria315 K22745 K4JPN Steve GA 280 K21422 K9FHPhilIL 140 TS-2000 RW3AI Valery Russia 140 Icom 7800 NI0CChuck MO 45 K25853 JA??? Osugi Japan21 K11470 WA7BOC Roger WA 20 K2 755 LA3ZA Sverre Norway8 K22198 N0BKBruce MN5 K23646 Could you please post this for me? Hopefully the formatting will stay aligned. Tnx
Re: [Elecraft] KUSB for K3
Don Wilhelm wrote, regarding USB to Serial Adapters: Yes, there are a lot of USB adapters on the market at a wide variety of prices, but it seems not all are equal. Review the number of questions related to 'will adapter XXX work with YYY'. With the offering by Elecraft, there can be no doubt that it will work with the Elecraft K3. Will other adapters work? Maybe, but we *DO* know the answer for the Elecraft adapter - no guessing. I have a Tripp-Lite U-209-000-R adapter which WORKS GREAT.. BUT... it does NOT want to be peroperly detected, and drivers auto-loaded, if it's plugged into the USB port when the PC is booted up! If it's left plugged in when the PCs booted, the OS (WinXP Pro in my case) wants to re-install the drivers EVERY TIME! If I UNplug the adapter, boot the PC, and THEN plug the adapter in, WinXP finds and installed it with no complaints. I'm posting this as a word of caution to those who might be considering a Tripp-Lite adapter. I'm not certain if this is a problem unique to WinXP or not. It seems to be a problem with regard to 'order of installation' of the device drivers, with the adapter drivers not being installed in time for the adapter to have been detected... OR with them being installed too early to have been of use. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] For sale?
MY 'other-other' rig (TS-950SD) _DEFINITELY IS_ for sale! Though my 'other' rig (K2) will remain with me for YEARS!. 73, Tom N0SS At 01:28 PM 5/21/2007, Toby Deinhardt wrote: My other rig is... For Sale. My other rig is not for sale and my other, other rig is also not for sale. Poor choice of T-Shirt slogan if you ask me. The difficult bit will introducing them to each other. #885 is still a bit jealous of #3248... How's that for anthropomorphising? vy 73 de toby -- DD5FZ, 4N6FZ (ex dj7mgq, dg5mgq, dd5fz) K2 #885, K2/100 #3248 K3/100 #??? ( #200) DOK C12, BCC, DL-QRP-AG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Jim: The way I've successfully done it, and with NO(!) effort, is to install the feet/bail using much longer (say 1) screws... TIGHTEN things down and then, one at a time, replace the long screws with the proper ones. Using the longer screws makes it very easy to get everything in place BEFORE you have to torque things down. Of course, you'll have to supply your own (4) long screws, but it's certainly worth the effort. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 10:25 PM 5/24/2007, you wrote: Hello All, Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and instructions to something that reminds me of putting toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? Not sure a cave man can do it. Jim Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545469 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 Now has tilt stand
Jimmy: There's truly NO REASON to let the bail 'buffalo' you into not installing it. While it is a bit more tedious to accomplish, it should certainly NOT keep you from installing and using it. Did you read my recent post regarding using slightly longer screws for the initial installation and then replacing them, one at a time, once the bail and feet are securely installed? It's NOT difficult to accomplish. If you didn't read the post, I can re-send (or re-type if necessary) it. There are other methods available as well. 73, Tom N0SS At 03:56 PM 5/27/2007, you wrote: I'm glad to see this item being discussed. I've had my K-2 for about a year and I've never completed the bale assembly step. I wrote to Elecraft to report my bale part as defective because it didn't fit anywhere near like what I was expecting. I was told in return by Elecraft that the bale sent to me was a correct part and acknowledged that the bale assembly is difficult. I haven't touched my bale since. Anyone want to buy an unused bale? Jimmy Walker WA4ILO Macon, GA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Quarter inch sticky pads don't stick
I just (less than a month ago) completed building K2 #6098 for a friend. I found that (for both pads) I'd managed to remove the backing paper AND the adhesive at the SAME TIME!!! Adhesive remained on the backing paper!!! Couldn't get it to walk back to the pad... tried offering it food, but it refused to move... finally used some (double-sided) 3M Poster Tape which I had on hand... now they stick nicely! Getting the backing paper off the pad without removing the adhesive IS a problem... but one which CAN (usually) be avoided if you try to remove the paper from a different corner of the pad if you first the first corner allowed the adhesive to stick to the paper. Of course, this all in retrospect for me!!! And... I KNEW I had the double[sided tape handy, so I didn't try all the hard to 'save' the original adhesive. If you don't have THIN double-sided tape handy, before you accidently peel off the adhesive, CHECK to see which item (backing paper or pad) it's attached to before you go too far. It takes a pretty 'fine touch' when picking at the corner of the paper, to NOT get the adhesive too. 73, Tom N0SS At 11:28 AM 5/28/2007, Fred (FL) wrote: When I built K2 # 54xx - I had the same problem with the supplied sticky pads. Seemed like they had bummer poor adhesive, or else the part they stuck to was waxy or something? I'm not sure if I ended up using them - or I might have bought replacement pads at Home Depot. de Fred N3CSY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations??
Hi Deni: I'm hoping to get a Hakko 936 (or it's clone) very soon and wondering what would be the best tip to order for SMT work? I'll be building the SoftRock Lite kit for use with my K3 so have decided it's time to upgrade the soldering tools. I've managed a small SMT project for my K2 using my old and trusty Weller but now want something better. I know quite a few in this group use the Hakko so I would appreciate some advice on iron tip sizes for SMT as well as the normal sizes. For what (little) it may be wroth, here is a bit of 'boilerplate' reply which I send to folks who write me asking about tips for their Hakko 936-x... Hope this helps. If you have the HAKKO 936-12 (ESD) or the -09 (non-ESD), the tips you're probably looking for are the 900M 900L series. The L series is generally a longer tip. 900M-T-LB Long, round, .008 tip, really skinny, helpful when cleaning out PCB holes All of the following tips are of the chisel (screwdriver) tip type: 900M-T-I.008 (0.2mm) tip - For SMD PC boards 900M-T-1.2D .047 (1.2mm) tip -- | For PCB work. The HAKKO 936-12 900M-T-1.6D .063 (1.6mm) tip |-- and -9 models ship with the | 900M-T-1.6D tip included 900M-T-2.4D .095 (2.4mm) tip -- 900M-T-3.2D .126 (3.2mm) tip - For non-PCB work 900M-T-S3 .205 (5.2mm) tip - For heavy-duty work, including Coax Conns. 900L-T-S1 .221 (5.6mm) tip - For heavy-duty work, especially coax conns. Try to select a tip which isn't longer than needed... the longer the tip, the more heat is lost getting it to the tip. Shorter tips generally are higher-mass and convey more heat TO the tip.. as long as they're long enough to reach into spots where you need to solder. I have found the 900M-T-I (above) to work quite nicely for the relatively small amount of SMD work I have undertaken. Nice fine point, and easy to get in/out of the work... so far anyway. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Conker
At 02:31 06/08/2007, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: A few people have asked me what a 'Conker' is, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conker Here in 'the colonies', we call them buckeyes! As a child, I used to collect them... for some odd reason. Had several trees in the back yard. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Anderson Power Pole connectors...
Interesting assessment! Just received this from a friend who knew that I (and many others) used Anderson Power Pole connectors quite a bit. Forewarned is forearmed! Take this FWIW. 73, Tom N0SS Subject: [Boatanchors] Anderson Power Pole connectors... Just a WARNING! Do not try and substitute the Chinese copies of the Anderson Power Pole connectors marketed by TYCO under the AMP name, for the real thing!!! They fit together terribly, the contacts are inferior to the Anderson ones. Maybe the what's his name CEO wanted more profits to buy more $6500 shower curtains! I have been meaning to pass this along some time ago. I got a sample package from TYCO for possible use for an engineering project I was involved in. I was putting some of these on some ham stuff a few days ago and didn't think I'd still had any of the samples left! They LOOK identical, but the housings do not nest together neatly like the originals. They are not compatible with the originals. The dovetails in the nesting lugs are slightly bigger. Only ID on them is the word China molded into the rear edge (as opposed to Anderson on the originals). Also the contacts mate with the Anderson connectors but not really reliably. Anyway, these things are crap! They look OK, but they are not carefully made. Steer clear of them. I think Allied Electronics has them in their line, and possibly others. DON'T USE THEM, YOU WILL BE DISAPPOINTED AND FRUSTRATED! Stick to the original Anderson Power Poles! 73 Sandy W5TVW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Feed PTT thru coax for DB6NT Transceiver
Hi Martin: At 07:57 06/12/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would strongly suggest using the 8R signal instead - when inverted it is the same as the signal from the KPA100 ext amp keying interface or the Amp Keying interface for the base K2 that is offered by Tom N0SS. See: http://www.n0ss.net/k2_t-r_rly_drvr.pdf 73, Tom N0SS 8R can be set to a delay in the K2 menu and is present about 15ms prior to the onset of RF, 8T cannot be manipulated by the menu parameters. The amp keying interface grounds when active, but you could drive a small (fast) relay that will in turn provide your required voltage. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Response to Oregon FD request
Hi Jason, et al: For what it's worth, and generally UNfortunately for all concerned, Field Day is probably the very WORST TIME for a new operator (to the area) to go to a radio club function and expect to be warmly received... During FD, everyone is running around, trying to ensure that everything is installed (properly) and running so things can start on time... additionally, there's a lot (usually) of activity during the entire activity and well-intentioned welcomes often go out the door with trying to keep track of who's operating what and where, and how the rigs are working. If you want to visit a club, do it at a regular meeting and then you'll have a lot better chance of being warmly received. And, if you're NOT... find another club. But please don't let the welcome you hoped for and didn't receive during Field Day cause you to decide that this club (whomever they happen to be) is unfriendly or closed to newcomers. No matter how hard we might try to be hospitable during FD, it's a chore, and we often fail. BTW - The MMARC (Jefferson City MO) tries(!) to welcome all visitors, and we WELCOME CW operators... of course, we welcome all other ops as well. In fact, we have a LOT more CW ops than SSB ops... go figger. But come visit us at a Club meeting... we'll be even more friendly then. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 09:57 06/13/2007, Jason Milldrum wrote: Kevin, I'm in Aloha, so you can sign me up when you get your group together. I have been thinking about what it would take to get a homebrewer group together in the Portland area, but I haven't run into any other builders from the area. It would be nice to have a place out in the woods to string up some wire. I live in a home where I can't put up an outside antenna, and I've been too chicken to try to deploy one in a local park yet. As for the local groups, I can completely relate. I'm a newcomer to Washington County, but I didn't have very good luck in Salem. When I went to the local club's FD event a few years ago, the club was not very inviting. Nothing like wandering around like a lost puppy dog, looking for someone to acknowledge you! What's irritating is that they advertise that the event is open to all, but don't really follow up with trying to make visitors welcome. Jason Milldrum, NT7S ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Response to Oregon FD request
Hi Steve: I didn't mean that we don't welcome beginners, just that, with all the hassle of FD, it's sometimes pretty easy to become preoccupied with other things and to give the impression of being disinterested when you're really not. We also urge all newly licensed ops to join us as well. 73, Tom N0SS At 16:08 06/13/2007, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: Tom: That depends on the club. Just last week I sent out letters to every newly (since Jan 07) licensed/upgraded ham within an hour's drive of Topsham ME inviting them to take part in the KS1R/N1TRC operation on Field Day. Given that many FD operations have GOTA operations, I expect that we are not the only ones welcoming beginners. 73, Steve At 12:33 PM 6/13/2007, Tom Hammond wrote: Hi Jason, et al: For what it's worth, and generally UNfortunately for all concerned, Field Day is probably the very WORST TIME for a new operator (to the area) to go to a radio club function and expect to be warmly received... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Response to Oregon FD request
We'll have two dedicated GOTA coaches and one 'circulating' coach as well. 73, Tom At 18:04 06/13/2007, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: Tom: Yes, I understand. The solution (assuming enough warm bodies are available) is to have a designated GOTA coach whose primary task is to demonstrate an interest in the newcomers. 73, Steve AA4AK At 06:36 PM 6/13/2007, Tom Hammond wrote: Hi Steve: I didn't mean that we don't welcome beginners, just that, with all the hassle of FD, it's sometimes pretty easy to become preoccupied with other things and to give the impression of being disinterested when you're really not. We also urge all newly licensed ops to join us as well. 73, Tom N0SS At 16:08 06/13/2007, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: Tom: That depends on the club. Just last week I sent out letters to every newly (since Jan 07) licensed/upgraded ham within an hour's drive of Topsham ME inviting them to take part in the KS1R/N1TRC operation on Field Day. Given that many FD operations have GOTA operations, I expect that we are not the only ones welcoming beginners. 73, Steve At 12:33 PM 6/13/2007, Tom Hammond wrote: Hi Jason, et al: For what it's worth, and generally UNfortunately for all concerned, Field Day is probably the very WORST TIME for a new operator (to the area) to go to a radio club function and expect to be warmly received... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for 220 VAC
Ken: The Samlex 1223 switching P/S is 'jumperable' for 120/220 VAC and it's not terribly noisy (RF-wise). In fact, many users report no RFI from these supplies. If you do notice some RFI, I have some info on added filtering for this supply available on my website at www.n0ss.net I have one of these supplies and have been quite pleased with its performance. 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 09:47 PM 5/9/2006, Ken Alexander wrote: I'm planning a short DXpedition to a 220V country. Does anyone know of a quiet switching power supply that would run on 120V 60Hz and on 220V 50Hz? I'm leaning towards a QRP operation, requiring a smaller supply, approx 5A at 12V output. However, since this is likely to be a once in a lifetime deal I might take a 100W transceiver and would then need a larger supply, say 40A at 12V. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ken Alexander VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for 220 VAC
Ken: Just posted to my web site an updated PDF for the Samlex SEC 1223, showing the 120VAC to 220VAC jumper location: http://www.n0ss.net/samlex_1223.pdf And the additional RFI reduction mods (if required) are: http://n0ss.net/samlex_1223_rfi_mods_from_zl2df.pdf 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Finding ELECRAFT at DAYTON...
Going to Dayton this year? Looking for Elecraft? You can find a AMP to the Elecraft booths at: www.n0ss.net/elecraft_at_dayton.pdf NOTE: The spaces in the link above are UNDERSCORES, NOT blanks. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Finding ELECRAFT at DAYTON...
Hi Van: N0SS wrote: Going to Dayton this year? Looking for Elecraft? You can find a AMP to the Elecraft booths at: www.n0ss.net/elecraft_at_dayton.pdf NOTE: The spaces in the link above are UNDERSCORES, NOT blanks. Van wrote: Heh heh, AMP --Freudian slip, Tom Whoops! Nah... just lysdexia... dyslexia of the finners! Spell-check doesn't help when the word's still a word! Durn it! Thanks pal. Tom ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 40M Parasitic Circumvention
Several folks have written, asking for the docs on eliminating the 40M parasitic in their KPA100. First - This problem is NOT present in all KPA100s (as least as far as I can tell), however, it is present in some of the amps. It will generally present itself as an instantaneous HI SWR indication, with an instantaneous reset of the K2 at the same time. SO far, the circumvention has been to move RFC10 (the RFC back at the SO-239 in the KPA100) further inward. A further description of (part of) the problem and the circumvention is now available at: http://www.n0ss.net/kpa100_40m_parasitic_circumvention.pdf I hope this helps some users. We now have some successful 'experience' reports from other users, about a dozen to date) which indicates that this small change seems to be effective. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QRO
Hi Jim, et al: Oh, I suspect they'll sell MANY amps... and NOT just to Elecraft owners. The mere fact that the KPA800/1500 is NOT specific to the Elecraft line of products, means that it'll work with just about ANY current-production transceiver, and will many older production rigs as well, possibly with a slightly reduced set of available features (e.g. auto-band switching if the rig can't provide the required data). The KPA800/1500 CAN decode both serial AND voltage differential data from most current production rigs, so you can actually have two DIFFERENT rigs connected at the same time and still control the amp with EITHER rig. That feature alone, will make the amp quite desirable. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 10:48 AM 5/22/2006, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The reasons amps seem expensive: 1) They use expensive parts if bought new. Manufacturers can't/won't/don't use surplus, so they have to pay full price for everything. 2) Many of the parts are expensive because they're custom and/or low quantity items. 3) The market is relatively limited, so the engineering and tooling costs have to be amortized over fewer units. Elecraft has sold less than 6000 K2s since the rig was introduced in 1999. As good as the Elecraft amps obviously are, and as much as many of us want one, how many units can they reasonably expect to sell in the next 7 years? 73 de Jim, N2EY -Original Message- From: michael taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Mon, 22 May 2006 11:23:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRO I'm curious, what makes RF amplifiers fairly expensive projects? I admit I have no experience or exposure to them, but as far as I can tell the two major building blocks are a power supply and a not terribly complex amplifier circuit. Is the bulk of the cost in the amp device(s) - power transistors or vacuum tubes/values? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QRO
It'll also match a 4:1 SWR at 1000 Watts. 73, Tom N0SS At 06:04 PM 5/22/2006, Earl W Cunningham wrote: Lou wrote: ...but the Elecraft will only match 3:1 at 1500 watts, not a lot of room. == It means a lot when you consider that the Alpha and Acom amps fault at 2:1. 73, de Earl, K6SE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Carrier
Hello Rolf: Yesterday someone sad he could hear my carrier and that I had to do something about it. What can I do to suppress the carrier in a K2? While monitoring your transmitted signal on a separate receiver (use a VERY SHORT RX antenna), tune off-freq. just a bit, so you can hear the beat note of the carrier, then adjust R1 on the KSB2 board for minimum received signal in the monitor RX. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Receiver Tests failed! - Problem nearly solved (Crimp pin removal)
Hi Charlie: Unfortunately these ate not cylindrical-bodied connectors. So the thin-wall brass tubing won't work here... too bad, too... that method works GREAT on many MOLEX-type connectors... I usually salvage old telescoping transistor radio antennas for that specific use. Fortunately, all he has to do is to reach in thru the access hole for each pin and depress the little locking finger and pull the pin out, then bend the finger back up into position. 73, Tom N0SS At 10:23 AM 5/29/2006, Missouri Guy, N0TT wrote: I don't know if the pins are the same type I have used and removed, but I used a piece of thin-walled brass tubing just small enough to clear the plastic connector. I just push the tubing in over the pins and the tangs on the connector are released. 73, Charlie, N0TT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: W2W
Jim: Thanks for all the replies. Worked him this a.m. and just did not know what the event was. I should remember D-Day, I was about 9 at the time I believe. A check of the ARRL 1X1 callsign registry reveals: W2W : D-Day Commemoration Start Date: June 3, 2006 End Date: June 11, 2006 Coordinator: ARRL Record ID: 3670 Requisitioned by: James R Nowotarski Call Sign: N3GOO Address: 52 Loose Lane Leesport, PA 19533 Email: n3goo @ arrl.net Phone: 410-765-8183 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 troubleshooting
Hi John: Now, as I was reviewing solder joints, etc., I noted that one of the solder pads for C4 was touching the outer can tab of L1. My question: Is this a solder bridge, or is there supposed to be a connection between C4 pad and outer (ground) tab of L1? I looked on N0SS's PCB pix and I cannot tell if a connection exists there or not. (thanks, by the way, to Tom for the pix). Fast answer... YES! They're supposed to be touching. Here's how to use the pic to help... that is, IF you have a suitable graphics program (or viewer): 1) Load both the TOP and BOTTOM views of the PC board in question. 2) LOCATE the component(s) in question of the side of the PC board which includes the silkscreened nomenclatures. 3) ENLARGE the (TOP SIDE) image so that most of your screen is occupied by the component pads in question. 4) ENLARGE the BOTTOM SIDE image to the same size. 5) FLIP the TOP SIDE image HORIZONTALLY. Of course, now all the print is reversed, but you should be able to re-locate the components in question by merely SLIDING the image right or left (flipping side to side usually won't cause the image to move up/down). 6) Make the image FULL SCREEN. 7) Switch to the BOTTOM SIDE image and (using the relative scroll bar positions of the drag bars from the TOP SIDE image) position the bottom side image so you can place the pads for the component in question immediately beneath those of the TOP SIDE image. You can usually use CTRL-TAB to toggle between the two images, so you can easily tell if the two sets of pads are aligned, one above the other. 8) With the two images properly aligned, you can now quickly switch between top/bottom views in order to get a really CLOSE look at the pads and land connections between them. I use this method all the time when doing signal path tracing on the PC board itself. In regard to your particular question, if you find a case where it appears that two pads are touching, check both top and bottom. If the pads appear to be so close together that they'd almost have to be touching, it's a pretty guess that they're supposed to be that way... especially given that NO OTHER UN-CONNECTED pads are anywhere nearly as closely spaced. Finally, check out the schematic!!! If (as it does in this case) the schematic indicates that one end of C4 connects to L1 AND to ground, then you've just answered your question WITHOUT having to resort to the images. All the images do then is to confirm that one end of C4 is attached to the (grounded) metal cover lug of L1, and that one end of L1 is also connected at the same point. Since the reflector doesn't support file attachments, I'm sending you some blown-up images of the parts of the PC board in question. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Hi Folks: A while back, several folks posted links to a number of telescoping fiberglas pole sites. I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering their 32' poles (black or orange) for $54. I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the Jackite price, however I may be in error here. The Jackite poles look quite good and appear to be reinforced in the placed which would normally require such reinforcement. I have several 30' 'Hot Poles' from an electric company. They failed the semi-annual HV QC tests, but will work exceptionally well for general antenna support use (particularly during FD), BUT they're a bit on the heavy side and a bit larger in diameter than I'd like to have if I was gonna take the pole on a trip in the car. Something slightly smaller / lighter is in order for such trips. If you have a link to other ECONOMICAL sources of heavy-duty telescoping fiberglas poles, please either post them to the reflector (preferred) or drop a note to me direct. Hope to order something yet this coming week. Thansk, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Jackite 31' Poles - Bought
Just went to www.5stores.com and ordered two (2) 31' Jackite Orange Fiberglas poles for $42.95 each, plus $13.25 UPS Ground shipping. Not a bad price. Thanks to all for your prompt replies. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT - 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Hi Dan: I'm posting my reply to your query to the Elecraft reflector as well, in the hope that it might assist others in procuring failed hot poles as well. You wrote: Can you describe what you mean by hot poles? And any idea how I could get hold of some from the local electric company here? When they fail the test, are they sold as surplus or just destroyed? Generally, most electric utilities will destroy hot poles which fail their Hi-Pot tests. They don't want to risk that someone might get hold of one and then try to 'work' on their local wires with it...! HOWEVER... if you can develop a relationship with someone at your local utility, especially if you can convince them that their failed hot poles would be the best thing since sliced bread for local hams to use as EMERGENCY ANTENNA SUPPORTS, you might be able to get them to allocate some of their failed poles to your use. It happened that one of our club members worked at an electric co-op which was tossing several poles and he (basically) just went out and scarfed them out of the trash bin before the trash collectors got to them. I think we managed to get hold of about 6-8 that way. Then, a couple years ago, when the State of MO held an emergency comms exercise in the St Louis area, with emergency services reps from many city / county / private groups present, the comms rep from Missouri's largest electric utility was present and he saw is using a couple of the hot poles for supporting our HF dipoles and a couple VHF verticals. He mentioned the fact to one of our comms guys who immediately put the 'arm' on him for their company to make their failed poles available for the same usage, rather than destroying them. It worked, and we came away with a dozen or so poles, most of which have been distributed to ARES and emergency preparedness groups throughout the state. A VERY worthwhile project. There are also companies (www.tmascto.com, for example) which sell NEW hot poles. But the price is fairly significant. Good luck, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need advice on the Iambic key
a pretty good fist on the J-38. If you EVER were able to send good CW with a straight key, you CAN learn to use a keyer and paddle... because you already know what good CW should sound like!! So, I have returned to W1AW code practice sessions. I will take the K2 out of tESt (except on SKN New Years Eve), when I can once again copy up to 15-20 wpm and hopefully transmitting with some vestige of skill using Iambic keying. NO...! TAKE IT OUT OF TEST MODE NOW!!! NOW is the time to be OPERATING! GET ON THE AIR and USE your abilities... use the J-38 as a starting point... you can probably get up to 18-20 WPM with it yet, all the while improving your abilities to copy. You can be practicing with the keyer in TEST mode when not on the air... but put in a LOT of on-the-air time right now. It's a heck of a lot more enjoyable to improve your copying abilities by having QSOs than the be sitting listening to W1AW... and, it's too easy to hit the OFF button when copying W1AW... a bit more difficult to do that during a QSO, which will force you to work a bit harder as well. Find folks sending just a bit faster than you can copy 100%... they'll press you to improve. Also, try to participate in as many stateside small contests as possible. Even if you are only on the air for an hour or two, such activities will force you to copy at speeds higher than you can handle comfortably. If you can, find someone (possibly in FISTS) with whom you can practice on a semi-regular basis and who HAS a good fist and can 'push' you to copy just a bit over your head. Good luck...! STICK WITH YOUR CW!!! NEVER GIVE UP! It'll be too much fun in the end. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW Tuning Indicator Questions
Hi Folks: While I do still offer bard SMT PC boards for this project (and the docs are still available at www.n0ss.net), I no longer offer parts. However, Ed Berneiser, WA3WSJ, is (I believe) still offering complete kits of parts for this device, and Ed is using my PC boards. For a PC board only, contact me, otherwise, contact Ed directly at: Ed Breneiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 08:10 AM 7/1/2006, Matt Osborn wrote: I bought the board from Tom Hammond (N0SS). Tom also provides a parts list, assembly instructions, pictures, etc. as well as encouragement and advice. Check out his web site, it offers a wealth of info for HAMs in general and Elecrafters in particular. http://www.n0ss.net/index.html#cw_tun_ind On Sat, 1 Jul 2006 05:40:45 -0700 (PDT), Bernard Gaffney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've seen several posts about CW tuning indicators. Is there a site where info on this is available (kits, pre-built units, etc)? Also, curious if they might be of use with a mode such as PSK31? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Small correction - ECN
Ray: Tom, Your 20m beam has great front to back ratio (or maybe front to side, or whatever). Your sig here was well over S-9 at max and barely audible at min. So you'll be glad to know it's still functioning as a beam, and not as a top-loaded piece of coax or somthing. Many thanks for the report. Using a Bencher SkyHawk tribander @ 73'... works better than ANY previous tribander I've ever owned. Really sturdy, too. And I'm still wondering whether it was my sending or the propagation that morphed my NC into GA grin You took a really DEEP (e.g. down to pure ESP copy) when you gave your QTH, so I (wrongly) assumed you'd sent GA... my copying error, certainly NOT your fist! The QRN out here in the midwest last night was pretty horrid, and I was having problems copying just about everyone on 40M... there were a few who were decent copy, but generally, it was difficult at best. 73, Tom ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question
Hi Bill: I just ordered mine and a question has already popped up in my fevered brain. Since the parts are arranged in different bags, one for each board, does it make sense to inventory and separate parts for each board? In other words, inventory and separate the control board parts and then finish the board. Once done, then proceed to an inventory/separation/finish of the front panel board and then so on. It seems to me it would cut down on clutter from parts that are not yet needed and create more usable space on my workdesk. For the K2, many, if not all of the resistors will come on a reel, in the order to be used. This cuts down on the inventory pretty significantly. Were it me, I'd perform an inventory of ALL components of the K2 BEFORE beginning assembly. This way, should anything be missing, you can request a replacement and still have it in time for timely installation. Elecraft is usually good to respond within 24 hours of receipt of your request. The inventory can be performed on a per-bag basis, so you don't get things mixed up and possibly out of order. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] After CW transmit K2 receiver is muted.
Hi Andreas: My DIRECT reply to you was rejected. See below: [EMAIL PROTECTED] SMTP error from remote mailer after RCPT TO:[EMAIL PROTECTED]: host smtp-in.kfki.hu [148.6.0.25]: 550 [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Recipient address rejected: Access denied. Your site is banned because of the unsolicited mail messages received from it. So, I am replying via the reflector... hope you receive this reply. Some questions first, please... please help me fixing the following problem. I built the first K2 in HA land (still not many owners in Hungary unfortunately). My K2 No is #2398. I mainly use it for QSO-s and am not very happy if I have to open it because of any error. Until now there were no problems, but recently my receiver is muted more often and often after CW transmit. A short key down helps, but not always. Transmitting with 100 W causes the problem more often than with QRP. Some times Hi Reflected message appears while receiver is muted. The message disappears if the short time transmit solves the problem. The phenomena comes without KAT100 too. 1) Does the K2 truly 'mute'? Or can you hear VERY STRONG signals weakly? And can you hear the CW sidetone when it is 'muted'? 2) Does this occur on a specific band? Or does it occur on ANY band? 3) You state that the HI REFLECTED message appears while receiver is muted... safe to assume that the message ONLY appears during TX and NOT during RX mode? 4) You state that the problem occurs with/without the KAT100. DO you mean that you have actually REMOVED the KAT100 from the K2 and the problem is still present? Or than you have only set KAT100 to CAL mode (so it does not attempt to tune) and the message still appears? 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW Tuning Indicators
Hi Roy: I believe Ed Breneiser, WA3WSJ [EMAIL PROTECTED], still offers the complete kits. I still offer the boards (alone), $6 ppd stateside/$7 DX, and you provide your own parts. 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 11:09 AM 8/23/2006, you wrote: Are tuning indicator kits for the K2 available? If so, who is making them? Thanks Roy Morris W4WFB No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.5/425 - Release Date: 8/22/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: How does K2 NB work?
Fellas: For an off-the-air demo of how well MY KNB2 works, you might want to check out: http://www.n0ss.net/knb2_demo.zip This recording was made during a real-time QSO, and NOTHING special was done. I just hooked the K2's AF output to the laptop PC and started recording while I enabled the KNB2 and then stepped thru the two available modes. The file is ZIPped because it's really a 2MB WAV file. SO you'll have to UNZIP it before you run it. Enjoy! 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 02:58 PM 8/27/2006, AA5CK wrote: If you have any doubts whether your K2NB can handle pulse type noise here are a couple of simple circuits that can either ease your mind or send it to the bench. The first is a pulse-generator/signal tracer/audio amp that works well as such and produces a 10uS pulse. A 2N3904 and 2N3906 may be used. http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/oscillators_timers/012/index.html The second produces pulse widths of approx. 10uS to 500uS with C1 values between 470pF and .047uF. http://www.electronics.50g.com/cpg.htm Also don't forget, as others on the list have noted, sometimes the preamp must be used to amplify the noise enough to trigger the K2NB. Good Luck...Ted...aa5ck David Walker wrote: It doesn't. Don't waste your time on this option. Thinking of building my 2nd K2. I wondered what the consensus is on HOW WELL DOES THE NB WORK?in a K2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Visually IDing NPO/C0G caps in the junkbox
Folks: Just received a query from a friend, asking how to VISUALLY identify a NPO/C0G ceramic capacitor if it's in your junkbox. I've heard that NPOs should have a colored band along their top edge, but I've not been able to confirm this via any published info, of from more than one 'informed' source. Suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Visually IDing NPO/C0G caps in the junkbox
Tom N0SS wrote: Folks: Just received a query from a friend, asking how to VISUALLY identify a NPO/C0G ceramic capacitor if it's in your junkbox. I've heard that NPOs should have a colored band along their top edge, but I've not been able to confirm this via any published info, of from more than one 'informed' source. Hi Tom, They usually have a black band. The encapsulated ones have a code number which varies, and my cypher cracking book is in Brussels - sorry. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] what DC connectors?
At 07:55 AM 9/5/2006, F5vjc wrote: On the subject of Anderson powerpoles, the only ones I see on Ebay are 45A are these compatible with the lower power ones too? YES... the CONTACTs on all three sizes (15A, 30A, 45A) are all the SAME SIZE... only the size of the wire insertion area is different. The 15A contacts accept up to #14 wire, 30A, up to #10 (I think, possibly only up to #12), and 45A #12 73, Tom N0SS 73 F5VJC On 9/4/06, Vin Cortina [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi everyone. To all who responded to my original query, thank you for the good advice. I purchased 20 pair (red and black) of the 30 amp version (1330) Anderson Power Pole, and have already begun converting all of my DC connections to the A.P.P. system. I am soldering them, and it works beautifully. They are truly worth the cost, and (c'mon now, say it with me) I can't imagine how I ever did without them. Thanks again. Vin KR2F K1-4 s/n:1977 KX1 s/n:1476 - Original Message - Subject: RE: [Elecraft] what DC connectors? Vin, KR2F asked: Can I get a sampling of exactly how you connect your portable rigs, ... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Powerpole compatibilty
The 45A CAN be soldered AFTER they've been crimped over the wire. Tom At 09:01 AM 9/5/2006, Mark Bayern wrote: On 9/5/06, Rajiv Dewan, N2RD [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 15A, 30A, and 45A will all mate together. The only difference is in the ferrule that accepts the wire. I've been told the 45A contacts are crimp only. The 15A and 30A contacts can be soldered. The higher amp ones accept larger wires. 15A accepts wire #20 to #16 wires. 30A accepts #16 to #12 wires. 45A accepts #14 to #10 wires. The housing is the same across these three and they will mate with each other. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Crystal Filter Alignment Questions
On Aug 19, 2006, at 1:52 AM, Jeff wrote: Finally, and most irritatingly of all, in CW mode, when I switch from filter FL1 to FL2, the pitch of the received CW signal changes significantly. However, when I switch from FL2 to FL3, or from FL3 to FL4, no such pitch change occurs, which is good. The K2 design isn't perfect in this regard, because of the way the BFO frequencies are determined - but you should be able to get any shift down to a few Hz, if that. It sounds to me like you don't quite have the filters aligned correctly. My guess is that IF the CW note changes SIGNIFICANTLY between FL1 and FL2, then you probably have the BFO setting on the WRONG SIDE of filter-center. This is not an uncommon problem. Fortunately, it is one which can be easily fixed... especially if you are using Spectrogram and IF you follow the published instructions, BOTH of which are available FOR FREE at www.n0ss.net. The important thing is to know which sideband (CW NOR or CW REV) you're aligning, and then ensuring that the BFO is always positioned to the proper sideband (either above or below the center frequency of the filter). Shouldn't I be able to correct this problem by trial-and-error, without using Spectrogram? Yes, I've done this. Try moving a filter one step up or down from where Spectrogram thinks it should be. See if it makes things better or worse. It CAN be corrected by trial error, but it's a WHALE OF A LOT EASIER if you do use Spectrogram. Unfortunately, I'm not set up to use Spectrogram to align the filters. What are the problems to setting up TO use it? 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] filter settings and hearing
Hi John: I suspect several (probably many) have already beat me to the punch on this one, but... Yes, it's quite easy to change the sidetone and filters to a different frequency. However, it's best (and most easily) accomplished with Spectrogram and your PC sound card connected to the K2. With that combination (and the docs), you can realign the filters in a matter of a few minutes. Spectrogram v5.1.7 (shareware), and the docs are available at www.n0ss.net 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 07:39 PM 9/18/2006, John Wiener wrote: Hi, I have an odd question for the group. As hams age, we begin to notice that our hearing decreases in sensitivity in the higher registers. In a K2, one can easily change the Spot audio frequency downward to accommodate this process. Is it straightforward to adjust the filters so their center frequencies are lower, too? Or am I way off the charts on this one? John AB8O ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] noiseblanker
Arie: Tested the noisblanker rubbing a screwdriver across the first RF amp Q21. Yep, makes a difference. Now waiting for a nice thunderstorm or some static rain :-) Don't expect ANY help with atmospheric noises such as that which comes from lightning and thunderstorms. The NB (as with virtually ALL NBs) is designed to work on short-duration repetitive pulses, such as sparkplug noise, the XYLs hand mixer or sewing machine, line noise, etc. My KNB2 DOES work on local electric fences, and it will often help to reduce the corona on the antennas as a result of static build-up from passing storms (because the corona discharge is fairly repetitive). I find that my KNB2 generally works very well on those things for which it was designed to work. Sometimes, if the actual STRENGTH of the noise is low, it will not be enough to trigger the NB, however I have, in some instances. been able to fix that by turning the PREAMP on... making all signals (and noises) stronger, and up to a level where the NB can detect the noise. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] When do you use fast AGC?
Hi Jeff: The K2 is the first rig I've had that has adjustable AGC. Under what conditions would one benefit from using fast AGC? It seems that slow AGC is easier on the ears on CW. FAST (or OFF) AGC is the only setting is EVER use on CW! If you only work the 'strong ones', then using SLOW AGC will work well for you. However, if you work weak stations with SLOW AGC enabled, you'll find that a strong nearby station can (and often will) 'pump up' the AGC, thus REDUCING IF GAIN, to the point that the weak station will either drop significantly in signal level, or possibly completely disappear until the strong in-band signal is gone. Additionally, using FAST or OFF AGC will give you a 'sharper sounding' CW note, which can be more easily copied, especially at higher speeds. You'll have to ask a phone operator about using FAST/SLOW AGC on SSB... I have little experience there... G 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cutting leads in tight places
Lee: I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page 57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when I finished soldering without causing heat damage to near by components but I am finding it nearly impossible to trim the leads now. I have the recommended angle cutting tool but I still can't get down to board level with them to cut them anywhere near flush. What I've had to do in a couple instances was to merely grab the exposed lead with a pair of needle-nosed pliers (actually a pair of hemostats) and then pull a little on the lead and rock it back ;n forth until it breaks AT the soldered joint. Then I go back and re-flow (re-heat) the solder around the lead to ensure that I still have a solid connection. So far, this has worked in all instances. Another method is to pre-cut the leads to length before you solder. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] k2 HEATSINK PANEL DIMS.
Bob: Is a dimensioned drawing available for the K2 heatsink back/bottom panel regarding the centers of each connector? This would make it much easier for us to add our modifications to the K2. Back panel room is quite cramped and new holes must avoid internal parts, pieces and fiddley bits. My new K3 must have a bit more room to install modification connectors on the back! I don't have a dimensioned drawing, BUT I do have an IMAGE of the back panel which I can send to you (or anyone else) in any of a number of bitmapped formats. Then you can load it into a graphics editor and place your connectors as desired, PRINT out the image and use it as an overlay onto the back panel for marking (center punching) hole positions. This method's worked well for me for the past several years. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K2 TR adapter
Lars Edwards, wrote regarding the K2 T-R Relay Driver Adapter PC Board: Do you by any chance have a board and parts kit available and if so what is the cost inc. shipping ? Using appropriate components, this device should key just about any T-R line presented by an external RF amplifier which must key +120VDC or less at no more than 3A. This includes virtually all current production HF amps, including the Heathkit SB220/SB-221 series of amps.. though the Heath amps are NOT QSK-capable unless they have been modified. So far, I've only offered the PC board itself.. for $6 ppd to your mailbox. Up to now, I've made the boards, in small quantities, in my kitchen, using a photographic contact exposure technique which yields excellent quality boards, BUT which were hand drilled. I had no way I could (to my satisfaction) tin plate the copper side of the board. Just yesterday, I sent an order to FAR Circuits, to have them make a supply of PC boards which would be machine-drilled AND which will be solder coated as well. I should have these new PC boards within 2 weeks. In the past, because orders have been slow, and generally few, I've supplied builders with a parts listing and component part numbers from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com). However, I'm planning on 'kitting' the entire kit of parts, so builders will be able to order a complete kit from me. At this point, there are two models of the T-R driver circuit which are available, one which uses two (2) 2N7000 MOSFET transistors, and which is good to drive relays up to about 50VDC and around 200mA of current, and a model which uses one 2N7000 for the input, but a heavy-duty HEXFET (possibly an IRF610B) which will drive loads up to about 200VDC and 3A current. ONLY THE HEAVY-DUTY driver will be offered as a kit. The complete kit would run about $16 each, postpaid to any US destination... $1 (US) more to a DX location. I'll still offer the bare PC boards for $6 ppd ($7 US to DX). I should have complete kits available in 2-3 weeks, bare PC board (hopefully) within 2 weeks. If you wish to order a kit, please remit to: Tom Hammond 5417 Scruggs Stn Rd Lohman MO 65053 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit
Hi Carter: I want to be able to do computer-generated CW on my K2, using software such as DX4WIN and WriteLog. The circuit that works on my wife's Yaesu FT1000 MP Mark V does not work on her Yaesu FT920, which makes me think it isn't going to work on the K2, either, because both require a stereo plug. The circuit for the Mark V addresses a mono plug. Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM port that will work with the K2? I do not want to use a sound-card approach, such as the RigBlaster. Consider: http://www.n0ss.net/lpt_keying_adapter.pdf PC boards are $6 ppd to your mailbox. I've used this with ALL of my rigs, including several K2s, for the past 15 years with no problems. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Halloween Special Event Station - W0O....???
Anyone looking for a 'spooky' QSO over Halloween might keep their ears peeled for W0O, operating from Frankenstein Missouri USA, and operated by members of the MID-MO ARC (Jefferson City MO). Our tentative operating frequencies are: 3.535 - 3.545 7.035 - 7.045 10.113 14.035 - 14.045 21.035 - 21.045 ALL QSOs will be QSLed 100% to your address as shown in QRZ.COM. If we can't find your address there, we will do our best to find you. We DO NOT require a QSL from you!!! 161, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW Sweepstakes Contest
Hi Craig: I've NEVER (in 45+ years of SSing) been able to make it thru the entire SS without rest... and I'm sure this year'll be no exception. That having been said, I do intend to operate QRP single op and will try to work as many folks as I can... I've found that, when using QRP, it's sheer folly for me to try to CQ during the first 18 hours of the contest.. but SP is VERY PRODUCTIVE. I can sometimes get a small 'run' going in the latter hours of the contest, when all the big boys have already worked all the strong stations and start listening for the 3rd (and lower) tiers of signals... that's sometimes ME. Good luck, 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 10:53 AM 11/1/2006, Craig D. Smith wrote: I'm wondering how many other Elecrafters will be in the CW SS contest this coming weekend? Would be interested in hearing about your plans, including Elecraft rig, power level, antennas, and your section. I'm planning on the entire 24 hours here from Colorado using my K2 at 5W in QRP division. Plan on mostly 20 and 40 with some 80 at night. Homeowners Association here prohibits outside antennas, but I will be testing their powers of observation with a temporary all band 88 ft doublet fed with open wire line and Elecraft switchable balun. Will be in inverted V configuration with center on a 30 ft. kite pole. Will also put up my Buddipole in a vertical configuration for use on 20 and 40. Look forward to seeing lots of you on the air! 73 . Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 31, Issue 3
Cathy: For future possible adjustments... REMOVE the pot and reinstall it on the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board... then it'll be on top where you can easily access it! Saves a LOT OF HASSLE! And it's a SIMPLE one-time task to perform. If you do a lot of voltage adjustment (though few of us do), you could always remove that PC-mount pot and replace it with a chassis-mount pot (installed on the back of the case) attached to the PC board via three wires. 73, Tom N0SS At 07:44 AM 11/3/2006, you wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The K2 has a series diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode drops about .2 volts. What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the battery. There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot. 73, Don W3FPR I adjusted my Astron to 14.1V output using the internal pot, but be warned that it is a semi-major project. The pot is on the underside of the small floating board IIRC; every time I wanted to adjust it, I had to short out the large electrolytic capacitor in the Astron, unscrew the board, pull it up, make a guess as to how much to adjust it, screw it back down, power up the supply, check the voltage, see that it's still wrong, power down, short out the cap, unscrew the board There may be an easier way to do it but it wasn't obvious. I'd guess that it took me a dozen iterations. I don't ever want to mess with it again. What was Astron thinking burying the pot where it can't be safely and readily accessed just by removing the cover??? Cathy N5WVR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N0SS/QRP ARRL CW Sweepstakes Report
Well... I didn't set any records this year, BUT I didn't do too badly either. I was tickled that my body (still) allowed me to operate virtually the entire available time... first time in a number of years I've felt like doing so. Conditions were decent... not terrific (no 10M at all!), but still had a good time... It was GREAT to work so many Elecraft friends this weekend, and seeing so many of them doing so well in the SS...which is my VERY FAVORITE contest of all! I'm sure several folks kicked my butt, but I still had lots of fun. The K2 performed as anticipated.. PERFECTLY! I ran with XFIL #2 (1KHz BW) about 80% of the time, 4000 Hz BW about 15% and maybe 200 Hz BW the rest. I still prefer to let my ears do most of the 'signal sorting' for me.. also helps to let me catch those other ops who still haven't mastered the art of ZERO BEATING and who persist in calling many hundreds of Hz off-freq. Few were missed as a result... MANY would have been missed had I used the 400 Hz filter most of the time. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS SWEEPSTAKES SUMMARY SHEET Contest Dates : 04-Nov-06, 05-Nov-06, 06-Nov-06 Callsign Used : N0SS Default Exchange : # Q N0SS 58 MO Name : Tom Hammond Address : 5417 Scruggs Stn Rd City/State/Zip : Lohman MO 65053 Country : United States BAND Raw QSOs Valid QSOs Points Mults __ 80CW 254 253506 11 40CW 231 231462 35 20CW 81 81162 16 15CW 85 85170 15 __ Totals 651 650 1300 77 Final Score = 100100 points. I have observed all competition rules as well as all regulations established for amateur radio in my country. My report is correct and true to the best of my knowledge. I agree to be bound by the decisions of the Awards Committee. Date: 6 Nov 2006 Signed: //Thomas S Hammond Call: NØSS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ECN Report
Hi Folks: I had a 'biological emergency' which required me to be away from the shack for the first 15 minutes of the ECN 40M net. By the time I did manage to get into the shack... all was deathly quiet! I called ECN ? several times and only (eventually) got a reply from Mike, W3MC, who couldn't copy we well enough to exchange ANY usable info. Sorry I wimped out on y'all and Kevin. Maybe next weekend mill be better. Tom N0SS At 09:31 AM 11/13/2006, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Kevin, How did battery ops go? I listened for you here in FL, whilst building the front panel board of the K2,but 40M appeared too long for stateside. Didn't even hear Tom (N0SS). Macedonia, however, was not too much of a problem. I'll look for you guys again next week. 73s, Pete wd4lst K1 #2194 K2 #5813 (Not yet alive) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
