akes it awfully suspicious! Especially if the engine in question
is a 603. A failed head gasket can provide similar symptoms, but
that's not as common on the 603.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:52:50 -0800 (PST)
> From: C
Chris,
Forget that site if it doesn't work... try this one instead:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html
The Braingears site tries to use the silly Macromedia fluff. All you
need is the PDF files. Or, just download the CD images from one of the
FTP sites that are run by list members.
I dream of the day when phones are banned nationwide from being used
by the driver when the car is in motion.
*sigh*
-Dave M.
(one of the last people on planet Earth who does not own a cell phone!)
> --
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 13:17:37 -0800
> From:
There's always the fold-up kind that bolt to the door panel. They work
great, look decent, but I still don't like drilling holes to mount
them. I've also seen them mounted in the center console under the arm
rest, which is nice for some chassis (works on W123, early W124,
probably some others too).
;
that was sold in Europe.
Some pictuers of the failed camber plates would be nice, though!
For reference, photos of the K-Mac eccentric camber bushings are here:
http://www.buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 0
bars are a good start with wider wheels. You can
mostly leave it alone from there... the cost goes up a lot for the
other stuff, unless you have the tools & skills for all DIY work. Did
I mention Euro headlights yet? Or the K-Mac adjustable rear camber
kit?
(ducks for cover)
:-)
--
Dave M.
Just a sec... anything xW-30 is really too thin, and not approved for
summer use at least in any MB owner's manual I've seen. In order, the
preferred M-1 weights would be 5W-40, 15W-50, and (least preferred)
0W-40. All the other stuff (xW-30 or xW-20) is for little high-revving
ricer motors, not MB
center, I like about 14.0-14.25 inches front & rear (with a full tank
of fuel). Stock is usually 15.0, give or take a bit.
The Sportline steering box & steering wheel are also nice - faster
ratio and smaller diameter, respectively.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
Those paper manuals are awfully hard to come by these days. The price
is not unreasonable... hope somebody jumps on it. (I've already got a
set, so I'm out of the running, lol.)
Side note - if there was ever an M119 manual printed, I need one! I've
never seen one and don't know if they exist
om W202/203/208/210 donor cars
and really help with the wallowy sidewalls (195/65 tires are a joke,
IMO - note that MB has nothing remotely close to those specs on
current vehicles!)
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 16:47:59 -0500
> Fr
Sorry Don... I only own W124's and haven't worked on any W126's. Those
pics are from my cars where I am still in the process of doing the
stereo install. Maybe this winter I'll get to complete the blue car!
Last winter my plans were derailed by the timing cover fiasco (for
those of you who remember
Lee,
The photos here should give you some ideas on how to run the wires:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/blue_87/
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/white_87/
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/
:-)
+dm
> --
> Date:
And I prefer removing the silly thing entirely. The valve itself can
leak, even if all vacuum connections are removed - see photos here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_intake/
:)
+dm
> --
> Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2005 01
Russ,
That's bizarre. I suspect the 'pirated' copies are ones that are
'cracked' and don't use a keygen. The keygen creates a real license
key, same as you would get from MB. I have my EPC and WIS installed at
home, on a PC connected to the internet via broadband. I have no 3rd
party firewall (no
I've never understood the fascination with the loopback adapter. I
have never needed one (don't even know what one would look like,
lol!). I've also not had any problems with it 'phoning home'. I'm
running XP SP2 with the firewall turned on, but it's never asked me
about allowing any EPC net traffi
Don,
Short answer: No.
Long answer: Only if you need access to European part numbers or
datacards, or other markets (Japan, South Africa, etc). Or info on
Mogs, trucks, busses, etc. There are a handful of updates &
corrections even on some of the older cars but not enough to really
justify the h
If it's the same version I'm running (April 2005), no loopback adapter
is needed - ditto for the WIS. Some folks claim it's required but I've
installed on several systems with zero problems. You may need to
format C to start with a clean OS, but it will work. Requires W2K or
XP, though - not sure i
Yep - works fine on my box (XP SP2). What's the error, or where does
it not work...?
+dm
> --
> Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2005 18:48:01 -0600
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] anybody have the new DVD version of the EPC?
>
>
> I do, and cant get
ing, etc. If you didn't have the coolant issues, I'd suspect
the turbo for the oil consumption. I'd sure want to rule out
everything before yanking the head again... ugh...
:(
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 14:14:07 -0800
> From: Kevin
Hi Alex,
Hey, I had forgotten about that car. That is just bizarre about the
head. Too bad you didn't get to see the failure, or take a picture.
Glad to hear it's running well with the #22!
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 23:02:19 -0
n possibly needing to change the filter more often.
This assumes it's getting diluted by a couple hundred gallons of #2.
But, you know what they say about opinions... ;-) Anyone have some
solid info on this? I'm curious myself...
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date
He snuck it right out from under me too, lol. I probably would have
jumped on that one if it were closer... a 1400 mile jaunt was not in
my schedule anytime soon. Now, if it had ASD (a pretty rare option)...
hmmm... oh well. Congrats on the new ride, Don!
:-)
-Dave M
s the inside of the rear tires excessively.
If the car is lowered AND has wide wheels (I've got 18x10.0 wheels
with 275/35/18 tires on the E500), the condition is even worse. If
your car is stock, you don't need this kit.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
Alex,
Wow - that's one of the first, if not THE first, cracked #17 head that
I've heard of. Could you give us any more details? How it happened,
where the crack was (beteween valves or valve to prechamber), etc?
Thanks!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300
That's insane. My local Mall-Wart has the 5qt jugs on the shelf for
$21 I belive, or approx $4.25/qt. The single bottles are $5.xx/qt (I
forget the exact price). You paid nearly double that for what's
theoretically the same product in a different package...!
=)
+dm
>
d and near 200kmi, this is cheap insurance against a
failed tumbler. I've replaced the tumblers on both of my pre-1990
124's, and changed my dad's out as well.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
1986 300E - 208kmi
> --
hey're plentiful and cheap. The stock 240D engine, without oil cooled
pistons etc, is just not worth messing with - IMO.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 260kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 18:49:53 -0500
> F
sales brochures.
More performance specs are here (Excel spreadsheet):
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/acceleration_specs.xls
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 17:15:20 -0700
> From: "Chase Kaufman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sub
from an industry expert:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/HID.html
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 15:48:00 -0400
> From: "Lee Levitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ecode lamps for a W124
>
> Dave writ
tes the
installation significantly. I've done the relay install on three cars
now - takes me 6-10 hours to do it neatly. Photos of two of them are
here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_headlights/
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 260kmi (Sportline)
l over the emissions junk (oh, darn) but the only thing I'd want
working is the ELR anyway - same as on my '87.
=)
-dm
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 19:53:30 -0400
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300D
>
Casey is right. An intercooled 2.5T should give equal power to a stock
1987 300D 3.0L, with nearly 20% increase in MPG (assuming you can keep
your foot out of it.) I've been toying with the idea of getting a
1990-93 300D 2.5T and maxing out the pump, which should provide close
to 150hp, while retai
il was switched back to 5W-40 or 15W-50.
YMMV, etc...
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 15:17:41 -0400
> From: Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] converting to synthetic oil?
>
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> &
Fred,
This sounds like a classic case of a failed or failing cruise
amplifier. New ones are outrageously expensive ($600+ wholesale!). You
should be able to get a rebuilt unit for under $200 last time I
checked. Give Rusty a call. Another option is 'resoldering' the
circuit board, but this has mix
4 was excellent for rust prevention. The W210 has an awful
reputation in the rust belt, both in USA and overseas. All my W124's
are from the west coast and are 100% rust-free, including the
underbody.
:-)
Dave M.
Bo
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2005 09:16:01 -04
diesel benz (coming in '06?) or AMG.
> P.S. It's just my opinion and my response was all in humor and not ment to
> upset anyone to the point of calling me gay, which probally reflects your
> own chimera.
> On 10/25/05, Dave M. <[EMA
Why don't you tell us how you really feel, Gabe. (Or is it Gayb?)
O_o
> --
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 11:45:20 -0700
> From: "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1984 300D For Sale
>
> Adultery is only "immoral" from a religious standpoint.
>
> On 10/2
Mounts should be about $50-60 each, usually replaced in pairs. They're
fairly easy to replace - one bolt on top, one on the bottom. Remove
bolts, jack up engine slightly, trade mounts, tighten bolts. Pretty
simple, really. The right side top bolt is the worst, since it's below
the turbo and there's
Sounds like a bad tumbler to me. Drilling is not a very good option. I
would buy the new VIN-coded lock from the dealership, which will come
with a new key. Try the NEW key in the old lock - this may work where
an old key does not. Once the trunk is open, replace the lock. Start
using the new key a
Welcome back, Rich. To answer your question, synthetic, Mobil-1 5W-40,
because there's almost nothing better on the market. I wouldn't go
past 7,500 miles or so without oil analysis. Say, is that
International still available? Do you put synthetic in it? And does it
have a gun rack for the wife's c
hts. I use these as DRL's, which works great and looks pretty
sharp too.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2005 00:11:48 -0700
> From: John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 500e lights
>
>
> Spent a few hours over the
elt, and tighten things up. The end.
Anyone with a 602/603 engine might want to check this out... the
adjustment on two cars (plus Joe's) ended up being right in the middle
of the range (as seen by the slotted mounting holes). Thanks again for
the tip, Joe!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E
tting lucky with some full sets for certain years. Before anyone
gets excited and asks me to scan them to PDF, most are odd sizes
larger than letter/legal and wouldn't work well on my scanner (which
isn't hooked up anyway, lol!) The real thing is nicer to read anyway,
and they're not exp
each of my wallet as well.
=)
-dm
> --
> Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 09:36:18 -0700
> From: Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] PHX E55..
>
> From Craigslist..
>
> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/105413137.html
>
> Dave M.. You re
ance.com/docs/mb/articles/
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
> --
> Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 18:41:29 -0700
> From: redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Ignore this List of Cars if you are so inclined
>
>
> http://seattle.c
hough!
;-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 09:23:00 -0400
> From: dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] S320 vs. S350D.. or would that be S300D?!
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]&g
n death
toll is nearly 80k now.)
;-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 260kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 13:29:13 -0700
> From: Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Climate control (1987 300D)
>
Warning: The pushbutton unit for the 1987 300D/TD is unique to the
1987 W124 diesels, IIRC, and none of the other years/models will work.
So make sure you get the correct part number. I believe you can get
rebuilt units for something like $200-250 from Rusty? I may have a
good used unit if Kaleb do
John,
The car is right on spec - the high side, actually. Spec for your car
is, IIRC, 0.75-0.85 bar at full load in 3rd gear at 4000rpm. In
English, that's 10-12psi. The older (<1987) models had a spec of up to
14psi. I'm more than a little concerned that your "mechanic" doesn't
appear to have acc
Hi John,
That's correct, you need a different part number for your 23mm glow
plugs. You must have a 3.5L car then, since all the 90's 603's in the
USA were 603.97x's! ;)
About the 500E lights, I set mine up with relays so the inside pencil
beams come on with the high beams automatically. Using th
Sorry to hear that, Peter. I just had the same failure on my W124. I
haven't yet decided if I will attempt a DIY repair this winter while
the car is hibernating, or if I will pay the stealership the 4 hours
labor (*grumble*). I didn't realize how much I use the sunroof until I
no longer have it wor
but can't quite get a handle on the bosch part number for a om603
>
>
> On 13-Oct-05, at 7:57 PM, Dave M. wrote:
>
> > Glow plugs are Bosch Duraterm Chromium, about 8 months and 8kmi old.
> > Fuel filters are recent as well. If plugs or filters were an issue,
> &g
Glow plugs are Bosch Duraterm Chromium, about 8 months and 8kmi old.
Fuel filters are recent as well. If plugs or filters were an issue,
I'd expect a lot more trouble with cold starts - but it's flawless on
cold starts. (The afterglow modification probably helps there, lol!)
:)
-dm
> ---
Thanks, Casey & Marshall. I took a cursory look and the lever is
popping back up when I turn the key, but I haven't verified the range
of motion yet. I'll check that out and report back in a few days.
Awfully strange that it only happens when hot!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E5
t it before it gets worse! Also - it's not
related to fuel level in the tank (same thing with full tank or empty
tank). Power is normal, as is pretty much everything else...
:-)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 259kmi (Sportline)
Just replace the head, unless the bottom end is somehow damaged. If
you get a used engine, it is almost guaranteed to have another #14
head on it, which could crack in the future. Get a used #17 head, or a
new one.
=)
+dm
> --
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 15:43:23 -0400
>
Apparently schools stopped teaching homophones about 10-15 years ago?
Another popular one is lose vs. loose...
*sigh*
-dm
> --
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 16:27:24 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] Break
>
> Why do some insist on spelling "brake" as break?
Brand new, only $999 EUR opening bid...
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8005754530
=)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Exactly - thank you for the clarification, Marshall!
=)
-dm
On 10/6/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Dave M. wrote:
> > Lee,
> >
> > Cold starting will be a non-issue in the 93 if you run Mobil-1, as it
> > has factory afterglow. Probably n
FWIW, I use the Mobil-1 5W-40 in ALL my vehicles, gas or diesel. That includes:
1986 300E (gas)
1987 300D (diesel)
1994 E500 (gas)
1993 E350 van (gas)
1981 VW Dasher (diesel)
2000 Aprilia Mille (gas)
Unless you own a vehicle that specifies a thinner oil, like a small
Japanese 4-cylinder, the 5W-4
a meter onto it? I have the MB
> service CD's, but I can't find mention of the rack sensor.
> Thanks Dave
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Aaron Lam&q
OM603 engine should use a quart of oil (or less) in 4-6kmi. I
assume you already know about the rod issues in your 3.5L engine,
which can eventually lead to ovaled cylinders and - you guessed it -
extreme oil consumption (but not through the intake tract!)
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Bois
not be a concern for me
at all. They can wreak havoc on the gasser engines however. After you
get the car, inspect the wiring - only replace the harness if
necessary. I wouldn't mind finding a nice 2.5T myself, with ASD of
course.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date:
red NON-extended
performance (go figure!), and is only $20-$21 for the 5-qt jug at
Wal-Mart. Confused yet?
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 16:03:12 -0400
> From: "Tom Scordato" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Synthetic Mobil
to get you a rebuilt unit cheaper, if you do need one.
If you have the time, I would swap pumps between your 2 cars and see
if the problem follows the pump or not. It could be done in one
weekend as DIY.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 16:28:44 -0400
Wow - there's a blast from the past. Talk about dragging up old
memories! I think I joined the "Kathy" list in 1999 or so? Back then
the 124 diesel was pretty new to me, and I was busy trying to figure
out if 115C on the temp gauge was OK or not (since the dealer told me
it was fine as long as it's
Ancient Chinese proverb... (?)
'When wrestling a pig in the mud, you both get filthy dirty... but the
pig is enjoying himself.'
=)
+dm
> --
> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 07:49:42 -0700
> From: "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] name calling...
>
> Actua
be cheaper, but not superior.)
-Dave M.
==
On 9/30/05, Gabriel S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> why the 15w 40? doesent everyone recomend the 15w 50?
>
>
> On 9/29/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Some of the time, using Mobil-1 c
Some of the time, using Mobil-1 can quiet a noisy lifter on an OM60x
engine. It can happen within a few hundred miles, or take thousands.
If it doesn't go away within say 10kmi and a couple of M-1 oil
changes, you have a bad lifter or two. They're a mild PITA to replace,
and cost roughly $30 each.
is. This is possible on any diesel 124 for under
> > $500 (approx) with used parts.
> >
> > :)
> >
> > -dm
> >
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
>
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
ft of that hamster wheel you're locked inside.
:p
On 9/29/05, Gabriel S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Dave Dave Dave...thats what all people who didin't make it here say.
>
>
>
> On 9/29/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Nope. Not after you
r getting out of it, the locals
look at me funny and comment "You're not from around here, are you."
That, my friend, is priceless.
-dm
==
On 9/29/05, Gabriel S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> O...but if you want to make serious money this is the place
e, i would
> spend on average around 3 hours a day sitting in traffic. My 2 years of
> college I went to Cal State Long Beach and lived in Riverside
> California...that 45 min really drove me insane...
>
>
> On 9/29/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> &
Ken, I think he *likes* his head up there. Either that, or it's the
reason why he's always so snappish, lol... I wouldn't be in a very
good mood either if my head were in that environment 24x7...
:-)
-dm
> --
> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:04:37 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTEC
I agree with Marshall. Anyone who thinks the fan is redundant at
freeway speeds, please remove your fan and go for a drive on the
freeway. Be prepared to either re-install the fan on the side of the
freeway (I can hear Gabe firing up the flame-o-gram already), or call
AAA to tow your car with the b
the box though.
>
>
> On 9/29/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > You might have a slightly different opinion if YOU were trapped in a
> > car that was on fire, slowly burning to death, while the fire truck
> > was stuck behind people blocking t
Only gas cars have ASR electronic traction control.
Only diesel cars have ASD mechanical traction control. This has a
limited-slip (20-40%) diff all the time, and when slip is detected,
the diff is hydraulically coupled to 100% locking.
I plan to install a limited-slip diff in my 1987 300D this w
You might have a slightly different opinion if YOU were trapped in a
car that was on fire, slowly burning to death, while the fire truck
was stuck behind people blocking the shoulder and unable to move. But
hey, if that's your idea of fun, I don't think many people on this
list would try to talk yo
Hi Chris,
1) I'd check it both ways - cold and hot. Either way, you don't need
to add oil until it reaches the MIN mark, or unless your level light
is coming on too early (pessimistic) and you want it to stay off. The
factory procedure is here - note the important part is to slowly
insert the clea
The 1987 190D-T has standard ABS brakes. Just pressure bleed as
normal. The only special procedures are for cars with ASR (electronic
traction control), which was only offered on gas engines from the
early 90's and up.
:)
-dm
> --
> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:29:02 -04
I've got a mint, brand-new brochure specific to this model (the
190E-16, W201.034) for sale if anyone wants it. I've been meaning to
post it on eBay with a pile of other stuff but haven't gotten around
to it. Anyway, some comments on the post below:
1) They all had SLS. There were two additional m
easily seen from below. Ain't these newfangled cars sumtin'?
:)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:45:47 -0400
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..
>
> right, but
ROTFL! Ummm, I think I'd prefer another solution in this case.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
--
> On 9/29/05, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I think there was some kind of
Interesting, Jim... the new modulator (on the tranny) cured the
problem though? Any way to test this sucker other than just replacing
it?
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
On 9/29/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
&g
CCW).
Most of the normal-shifting 603's I've played with are set to about
80% of full firm, based on the slotted holes used for adjustment.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
On 9/29/05, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
n't leak anywhere, which (IMO) is
amazing....
:-)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
t. (?) Not lkely that you suddenly have no pressure, but
it's not impossible either... (!)
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 07:56:29 -0400
> From: "Kevin J. Slater&q
Say what? I'm with Kleb, as they age, the IP's are almost always low
on fuel delivery, especially off idle - necessitating the ALDA
adjustment (richer). Almost all older, unmolested MB turbo diesels are
dogs (low fuel delivery) that wake up dramatically with a little
tweaking. I never hear of old d
wouldn't surprise me if the aftermarket blade
has the connection point in a different spot than OE, causing a
similar problem to the front. If so, the solution is the same. If you
buy from Rusty, make sure you specify that you want OE parts, not
aftermarket.
:-)
-dave m.
> -
uld be
in the 85-95C range and should not go over 100C unless it's *hot* out,
or you're doing a top-speed run. Temps over 110C almost always
indicate a cooling system problem that needs attention (which could be
a simple as dirt & bugs in the condenser fins.)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
199
icles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt
:-)
Dave M
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 11:35:46 -0700 (PDT)
> From: David Goldsmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Approx. 35mpg from an '87 Mercedes 300D TURBO Diesel
>
> Hi, folks. This is in reference t
My 617 also likes to keep some pressure in the system when cold, but
it's not the 15-20psi that I observed with the 603 cracked heads. I
wouldn't worry about it on a 61x engine, or even 601/602, unless there
are other symptoms. On a 603 however I'd be monitoring the situation
very closely.
Some of
It will work fine as an errand vehicle (with the trap removed). Just
make sure it gets a good Italian tuneup at least once every few
tankfuls to clear out the carbon that WILL accumulate from periods of
light throttle and/or stop & go.
:)
-dm
> --
> Date: Tue, 27 Sep
nd! Would be nice to replace my aging VW Dasher (which gets 40-45mpg
but is dangerously slow with only 48hp when new, and about 40hp
as-is...)
Good point about the torque converter factor, btw... I forgot about that.
:)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
our license will be suspended for 5 years.
>
> 9. In instances where traffic slows to 10mph, all shoulders shall become
> lanes.
>
> 10. Cell phones aren't allowed.
>
> 11. People with headset DVD playing while no one is watching them will be
> shot on the spot by the CHP
>
I agree - the pressure symptom is NOT conclusive that the head is
cracked. But IMO it creates a strong possibility. Marshall's two
190D's are about the only ones I know of that had this with no
apparent ill effects, but remember neither of them were OM603's.
I know that my car would usually have s
I don't have a problem with this unless you are poking along a freeway
onramp. The onramp near me feeds into an interstate with a 75mph speed
limit. If you're saving fuel with a light foot, and are only up to
45mph by the time you reach the freeway, and I'm stuck behind you
forced to merge into 80m
The MPG vs. MPH curve varies a lot by model. The non-turbo cars with
low (high numerical) gears will probably get best MPG in the 50-65mph
range, I'd guess. Turbo cars will bump that up a tad, partially
because they usually have taller (lower numerical) gears. However all
the OM61x engines, of any
eeding the engine oil it
doesn't need or want. By the time it's at Min, then you add a quart,
which will take it back to the middle.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
=
On 9/27/05, dave walton <[EMAIL PRO
; Thank Sherman for the wayback machine...
> http://web.archive.org/web/20040414225233/http://buying.articles.mbz.org/checklists/124/
>
> Rick Knoble
> 1985 300 CD
>
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
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