Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I am the 2nd owner of a 1984 C 32 and have sailed her for 14 yrs and never 
had reason to close the cockpit drains and as mine were stuck when purchased I 
assume the previous owner never closed them. Make sure the hose and connections 
are  good and forget it.

 

I would be more concerned with the rudder grease cap as it is more important to 
keep the rudder shaft greased. I have no experience there as mine are in good 
condition. I would suggest starting with some rust remover treatment and then 
liquid wrench or DL at the cap junction and then a thin pliers on the inner 
shaft and a larger one on the outer cup rim and try to free the cap. If it was 
ever greased it just might turn. I think that the entire assembly is either 
screwed or glassed into the rudder shaft but not sure so hold on to the inner 
shaft with the thin pliers when cranking the outer cap and only apply the 
pliers to the rim of the outer shell ( forward end ) or you will deform the 
shell. 

 

Good luck

 

John

C 32 Arpeggio

Norwalk,CT  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sender via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2018 11:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sender
Subject: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

 

I bought earlier this year a C 32.  One issue the surveyor pointed out is the 
seacocks for the cockpit drains are stuck in the open position.  This boat has 
spent it's known history in cold salt water on the west coast of BC.

 

I'm interested to know if anyone else has had this same type of seacock, and 
had success freeing it up.  

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xp1haN2nPHUneETUA


 

The starboard side one is only barely accessible through the 12"x 12" panel in 
the aft end of the quarter-birth.  If it was reasonably accessible, I'd just 
replace it, but to get 2 hands on it I'd probably have to go through the locker 
and remove the fuel tank.

 

The other pic is a fitting on the rudder tube.  I assume this is (well, was) a 
grease cup.  Has anyone taken one of these on?

 

Thanks,

Eric

C 32 Sirocco 2

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Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Try using the sail stop fixed above the cover if you cover the boat and
stuff some putty type material at an angle above the sail stop to catch and
pitch water out of the slot.

 

John Russo

Arpeggio C 32 1984

Norwalk, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

 

Also don't forget that if you are keel stepped AND have a mast slot for
slugs on your mainsail luff.  Darn near impossible to seal that channel with
just the boot tape. 

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

  _  

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Matthew L.
Wolford via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:13:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape 

 

Under "other solutions," I use a Spartite plug at the partners which, in
addition to holding the mast in place, also keeps water out.

 

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 2:25 PM

To: C <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  List 

Cc: Bruce Whitmore <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>  

Subject: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

 

Hello all,

 

I was wondering if some of you may have some insights regarding mast boot
tape.  We have had a slight leak around the base of the mast since we bought
the boat in February.  I pulled off a mass of old tape which was peeling
anyway, and applied Rubbaweld Mast Boot Tape with somewhat marginal success
(it was my first attempt). In that since I was doing the job single handed,
I had to start by taping the end of the tape to the mast with duct tape to
hold it while I pulled it tight.  I also found it was kind of a pain to have
to pull off liner from the tape surface simultaneously while pulling on the
tape hard enough to activate the adhesive and get it to bind.  It was also
pretty difficult to get a good span from the base of the mast deck entrance
to the mast itself, and I had difficulty getting the tape to fuse into a
nice tight end.  In the end, the stuff appears to be about the same as what
came off, which looked perpetually dirty.  

 

I understand this is mostly an issue of user error, but It seems to me there
must be a better solution.

 

For example, anyone ever try white shrinkwrap tape?  It would seem ideal -
waterproof, sticks to boat hulls well, doesn't leave sticky residue, is UV
resistant, and would stay much cleaner. 

 

Any other solutions?  

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Stus-List Flag lines on C 32

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Does anyone know the length of the flag lines on a C 32. I am away from
the boat and know that they should be replaced soon.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

John Russo

Arpeggio

C 32 1984

Norwalk, CT 

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Re: Stus-List repacking toerails

[John Russo via CnC-List]

https://www.grainger.com/product/4PDE9 

 
!2966!3!166593199800!!!g!109227747717!?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg-Kuo8qC1QIVo7vtCh0IwQpeEAQYAiABEgKoc_D_BwE_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=719344945_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166593199800109227747717!_id=V584xwAAADhfkeRa:20170712012221:s

 

John 

C 32 Arpeggio

Norwalk, CT

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel
Subject: Re: Stus-List repacking toerails

 

Ran across this .. haven’t used it or anything but … 

 

 

 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?page=search=butyl+tape=159386617=70447718

 

 

Tim

 

Matico

33mk ii

 

 

rom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: July 8, 2017 1:34 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List repacking toerails

 

Many listers use this:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

 

I simply put a few applications of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure between 
the toe rail and deck every other year or so.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 9:02 AM, Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

I need to repack the toe rails on my 32 C  The original packing was butyl.  
Compass Marine sells this but it is a very narrow and extremely thin material, 
less wide than the toe rails. Does anyone have a source or know the original 
source of the material used by C?  If so please contact me at JARieber@aol.  
Thanks


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This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel   

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List repacking toerails

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Check out Butyl tape on Google and look for Grainger. I saw 2” wide x 1/8 thick 
by 30Ft for about $14. I have a  C 32 so 3 rolls can do the entire boat.

 

John

C 32 

Arpeggio 

Norwalk CT

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Sippel 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Sippel
Subject: Re: Stus-List repacking toerails

 

Ran across this .. haven’t used it or anything but … 

 

 

 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?page=search=butyl+tape=159386617=70447718

 

 

Tim

 

Matico

33mk ii

 

 

rom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: July 8, 2017 1:34 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List repacking toerails

 

Many listers use this:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

 

I simply put a few applications of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure between 
the toe rail and deck every other year or so.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 9:02 AM, Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

I need to repack the toe rails on my 32 C  The original packing was butyl.  
Compass Marine sells this but it is a very narrow and extremely thin material, 
less wide than the toe rails. Does anyone have a source or know the original 
source of the material used by C?  If so please contact me at JARieber@aol.  
Thanks


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 






  _  

This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel   

  _  

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Not familiar with the boat but beautiful lines and looks clean. I have a 1984 
C 32 and love it! I know this does not necessarily help but you will not be 
disappointed assuming the boat is in as good shape as she looks.

 

John

Arpeggio

C 32 1984

Norwalk CT USA  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sander via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 6:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sander
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.

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Re: Stus-List Engine compartment insulation?

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I did this on my 1984 C 32 and the results are great using 1” thick with 
reflective surface and foam and actually a Rubber intermediate layer. I 
purchased the material from Defender and would recommend the kit or components 
of the kit for the most straight forward approach. I did not do that but use 
the same screw mounting holes of the original insulation but had to transfer 
those holes using blackened wet Q tips to cardboard templates which were the 
same templates for cutting the insulation and then using a small soldering iron 
to make holes in the insulation because it cannot be drilled without tearing up 
the foam insulation. Laborious but good results. Used reflective ducting tape 
from Home Depot for seams and used large fender washers for mounting. The kit 
has glue and nails with large washers and has to be  much easier. Good luck!

 

John

Arpeggio

C 32 1984 

Norwalk, CT  

 

rFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2017 10:44 AM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Engine compartment insulation?

 

Hello all,

 

Our 1994 C 37/40+ engine insulation is dropping bits of black dust 
everywhere!  As a result, I want to replace it.  What do you folks recommend, 
and are there any hints to replacing it?

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C 33 Rudder Post lubrication

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Dave,

If the Cup is salvageable and threads are intact you can have a new cap
fabricated to same dimensions with threads and have a grease fitting screwed
into the cap and then screw it down to the cup and use a small grease gun
thereafter without ever having to unscrew the cap again. This assumes that
what you have left there is sound. Otherwise keep trying the group for a
source of new assembly which is glassed into the rudder sleeve.

John
Arpeggio C 32 1984

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Kaseler via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 4:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Kaseler
Subject: Stus-List C 33 Rudder Post lubrication

I have a C 33 from 1975 and I have just discovered what appears to be a
very deteriorated grease cup fitting on the fiberglass tube which supports
the rudder post. It appears that the top of the grease cup itself has rotted
away leaving just the sides and a very rusty body. I touched it and some
metal feel off in my fingers. Have other C owners had to deal with this
issue?  What am I looking at? Can this fitting be replaced? Is it screwed
into the glass or just glassed in. Can this be worked on with the boat
afloat or am I going to sink the boat? Any help I can get with this project
will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks from a new member,
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

Take a look at picture titled View Without Dodger in projects 2011 Thumbnails 
and Starboard and Port Winches and Jam Cleats and click on the photos a couple 
of times to expand them. Cleat is Harken X-Treme Angle Fairlead #459 mounted on 
 a #295 Riser. Although I can handle tacking from the helm Single handed I do 
either lock the helm or use Autopilot to go to the companionway to make final 
trims on the main using Solid Vang and mainsheet if necessary. This year I have 
added a wireless remote auto helm control to facilitate pulling in the main 
sheet for controlled jibing.

 

John

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Young 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 10:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Young
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location

 

Neil and John,

 

Thanks to both of you for your responses.

 

I might need some visuals to understand the set-ups that you use.  And please 
forgive my ignorance as I am a relatively new sailor.

 

Neil, you said that you use a single line for the traveler with a loop.  John, 
you said that you use two ends of the same line back to the helm.

 

Mine has the main sheet with a block and tackle attached to the boom.  Then 
there are lines at each end of the traveler that use cam cleats that must be 
loosened to allow the traveler to move laterally.  How do I manage all three 
lines from the binnacle?

 

John, thanks for the info on your website.  That is quite an impressive array 
of projects that you have completed through the years.  I'm not sure what year 
you were referring to for the cam cleats with the extended loop.

 

 

On Saturday, July 2, 2016 9:52 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 

John,

 

I did mine the same as you, but never cut the line in two.  It lets me loop it 
over the binnacle which works great for us.  A neighbor told us about the 
approach and I figured I could always cut the line to make 2 lines if needed  

 

Neil

FoxFire

1982 C 32

Wort on Creek, MD

Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef> 

 





On Sat, Jul 2, 2016 at 9:35 PM -0400, "John Russo via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I agree with Neil, I however use two ends of the same line back to the helm.  I 
have Harken long throw jam cleats on the cabin top that allows me to snap the 
line loose like flicking a whip or jam it by pulling down. See 
arpeggio1984.info web site, under projects. I can look up the jam cleats if you 
are interested but they look like a regular cleat with an extended higher 
capture loop..

 

John Russo

Arpeggio 

Norwalk CT 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 9:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location

 

Leave the traveler where it is. It's a great place.  We used a single line for 
the traveler such that the loop came all the way back to the binnacle.  Kind of 
like reins for s horse.  Works great. 

Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef> 

 

_
From: Graham Young via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 9:06 PM
Subject: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Graham Young <grahamyoung...@sbcglobal.net>

Hello everyone,

 

I want to set up my 32 to be able to single-hand.  Currently, the traveler is 
on the coach roof and my wingspan is not large enough to reach the helm and the 
mainsheet at the same time

 

I'm wondering if any other 32 owners have set their boats up to single-hand and 
what solutions you've come up with.  The most obvious solution seems to be to 
move the traveler directly in front of the binnacle a la the 30, but the 
t-shaped cockpit seems to pose a challenge for that location.   My current 
Harken traveler is 4 feet long.  I measured the space between the cockpit 
settes below the seat lids at under 3 feet.  Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

Graham

 

S/V Spellbound

Cleveland, Ohio

1981 C 32

 

 

 

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I agree with Neil, I however use two ends of the same line back to the helm.  I 
have Harken long throw jam cleats on the cabin top that allows me to snap the 
line loose like flicking a whip or jam it by pulling down. See 
arpeggio1984.info web site, under projects. I can look up the jam cleats if you 
are interested but they look like a regular cleat with an extended higher 
capture loop..

 

John Russo

Arpeggio 

Norwalk CT 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 9:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location

 

Leave the traveler where it is. It's a great place.  We used a single line for 
the traveler such that the loop came all the way back to the binnacle.  Kind of 
like reins for s horse.  Works great. 

Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef> 

 

_
From: Graham Young via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 9:06 PM
Subject: Stus-List C 32 Mainsheet Traveler Location
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Graham Young <grahamyoung...@sbcglobal.net>



Hello everyone,

 

I want to set up my 32 to be able to single-hand.  Currently, the traveler is 
on the coach roof and my wingspan is not large enough to reach the helm and the 
mainsheet at the same time

 

I'm wondering if any other 32 owners have set their boats up to single-hand and 
what solutions you've come up with.  The most obvious solution seems to be to 
move the traveler directly in front of the binnacle a la the 30, but the 
t-shaped cockpit seems to pose a challenge for that location.   My current 
Harken traveler is 4 feet long.  I measured the space between the cockpit 
settes below the seat lids at under 3 feet.  Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

 

Graham

 

S/V Spellbound

Cleveland, Ohio

1981 C 32

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List radar mast/pole on C 32

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Hans,

 

Take a look at Arpeggio1984.info web site under 2007 projects. Only on pic 
there showing where to locate on port just forward of stern cleat and adjacent 
aft pulpit for support. All Edson hardware.

 

John

Arpeggio

C 32 1984

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hans-Erik 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hans-Erik Andersen
Subject: Stus-List radar mast/pole on C 32

 

Hello - does anybody have experience mounting a radar mast/pole on a C? I 
have some ideas - there seem to be limited options, given the transom, etc. -- 
but it would be great if anybody has some pictures of successful installations

 

thanks!

Hans Andersen

C 32 "Avatar"

Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Thanks for the responses on soft shackles, Sail Magazine has a short article on 
the various soft shackles on the market and their benefits and increasing 
popularity due to the new high strength available line. Thanks for some 
confirmation on their use for attaching the heads sails. This will be the next 
upgrade for Arpeggio.

 

John

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk CT  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

 

I have the APSltd brand on Touché'.  Excellent upgrade. Headsail virtually zips 
through the fore triangle now. Before, the bowlines hung up on the forward 
lower shrouds.

 

I bought new VPC sheets with eyes on each end along with the soft shackles. Be

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 17, 2016, at 10:05 AM, John Russo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If so what 
brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds.

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 C 32

NorwalkCT

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Stus-List Soft shackle

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If so
what brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds.

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 C 32

NorwalkCT

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Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I would second the Garhauer experience. They can recommend size and build
flange fit to your mast and great to work with. Try catching them at a boat
show or during a show for best price. 

 

John Russo

Arpeggio C 1984

Norwalk, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2016 1:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom vanging...

 

Garhauer. Extremely high quality and amazing support after the sale.

Bill Bina

On 1/28/2016 12:47 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:

Here's another post to get some experience-based advising.  I am looking to
purchase a rigid boom vang to replace the topping lift (damn thang) which is
always in the way of everything.   I will also replace the blocks/line I
have as manual vang. Tangs are built-in on the boom and mast base. I don't
want hydraulics, but wonder who can recommend which vang/size and other
considerations (vendor, etc) based on your purchase/use of them.

 

There is Forespar, Garhauer, Boomkicker, etc.  Some are less expensive but
appear the same.  Thoughts?

 

 

 




Chuck Saur 

Morning Sky

C 35-3

Hessel Michigan





 

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Re: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I have a 2GMF and use a small foil baking tin below the filter that can be
bent to shape around engine parts and drop the entire filter with oil into
the tin. Gets most of the oil and then just wipe up any spill with a blue
paper shop towel.

John
Arpeggio  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
ahycrace--- via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2015 11:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ahycr...@cox.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf

I take a trash bag and push the opening onto the engine below the filter.
When the filter is removed I just let the whole mess drop into the bag. I
have a shop rag handy to wipe off any oil that escapes the bag. I have found
that a large trash bag that is also thick works best and I take the first
bag and drop it into another incase the first one gets a hole in it during
the removal. I have done this for years, always works for me.

   Gary
Kolc
 
"Liberty" 38' MK II


 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I asked this same question about two years ago and tried both 
> techniques. I found for myself that stuffing an absorbent pad around 
> the filter was the best and least messy solution. I tried the bag 
> trick twice but it actually made more of a mess because you just can't 
> twist the filter very fast with the bag on, especially once the oil 
> actually gets in the bag and lubricates the entire outside of the filter.
> 
> Just get the pad good and stuffed in at the base of the filter. It's 
> the best way for me.
> 
> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 5:49 AM Tim Goodyear via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > The ziplock bag helps.  If you want to have less oil in the filter, 
> > punching a hole in the top with a screwdriver before you drain the 
> > oil also helps, but there will be something to wipe up in any case.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > On Oct 31, 2015, at 8:41 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > One neat trick I learned at a diesel clinic is, slide a gallon zip 
> > > lock
> > up around the filter & then unscrew it letting it drip into the bag, 
> > then drop the filter into the bag and seal.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill Coleman
> > > C
> > >
> > >
> > >  Original message 
> > > From: Indigo via CnC-List 
> > > Date: 10/31/2015 8:16 AM (GMT-05:00)
> > > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > > Cc: Indigo 
> > > Subject: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf
> > >
> > > I will be winterizing indigo tomorrow. I am looking for help from 
> > > this
> > amazing group on techniques used to change the oil filter while 
> > minimizing drips and spills.  I don't seem to be able to get the old 
> > filter off without dripping oil down the side of the engine. What am I
doing wrong?
> > >
> > > --
> > > Jonathan
> > > Indigo C 35III
> > > SOUTHPORT CT
> > > ___
> > >
> > > Email address:
> > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to 
> > > the
> > bottom of page at:
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> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > >
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> > >
> >
> > ___
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> > the bottom of page at:
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> >
> >


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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[John Russo via CnC-List]

My experience with hydro lock is to avoid it by putting the bucket in the 
locker below the cockpit and at engine level so excess water is not forced due 
to gravity into the engine when the pump is not operating.

 

John Russo

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk,CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 11:56 PM
To: C List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

 

My experience is like this :

 

- if the pump works properly, the 6 ft hose I use from the bucket in the 
cockpit fills reasonably quicklying and there are no issues. 

- one year it didn't work and I tried priming the hose. it was that time when I 
managed to hydrolock the engine. It also turned out that the Impeller had no 
vanes left.

 

When I replaced the impeller the pump primed itself in no time. Of course, this 
was after removing water from the engine. 

 

Marek 

 

 

 

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.



 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 2015-10-27 22:27 (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 

I am trying to reconcile this discussion with my winterizing experience last 
year.  I use a bucket of antifreeze in the cockpit and run a tube to the raw 
water intake inlet outside the hull.  I did not see any water draw before I 
started the engine (or after) so even with that pressure head, I did not seem 
to be pushing water into the engine.   Last year, it seemed to take a long time 
for the water to begin being sucked through from the bucket.  At the time, I 
attributed this to it taking a while for the engine to warm up and the 
thermostat open.  But now, when I look at the engine info I have, it looks like 
the thermostat is on the antifreeze circulating path, not on the raw water 
path.  So why would there have been a delay in the draw from the bucket?  Dave

 

On Oct 26, 2015, at 10:29 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:





Dave,

 

good thinking!

 

Since the water came from behind (exhaust side), and you did not turn the 
engine, there was a good chance that you would be able to suck most of it the 
same way.

 

However, I would not put too much faith in your impeller. If the impeller is 
good, the pump should prime from the cockpit (no need to pour any water into 
the hose). If it did not prime on its own, it means that it is not working 
properly. The impeller may look good, but it may slip on the shaft or the 
pulley (the v-belt) is slipping. I would be afraid that this may create some 
cooling problems. There is nothing you need to do for the winter, but I would 
think hard on addressing this before the next season.

 

When you do your feed bucket method, do you have a shut off valve at the hose 
from the bucket to the engine? If you don’t, adding it helps a lot, as you can 
shut off the water (AF) feed from the cockpit and turn the engine off, when the 
water is pumped out of the hose.

 

Btw. If you don’t like the idea of having any head of water in front of the 
water pump, you can try a method with a bucket on the ground and a hose leading 
from the bucket to the raw water intake throughhull. You can cut a thread on 
the inside of that throughhull and screw in a barbed nipple into it. The Good 
Old Boat Nov/Dec 2014 issue had an article on that. I have a scanned PDF if you 
are interested.

 

Marek

 

From: davepulaski via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 3:40 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: davepulaski <mailto:davepula...@hotmail.com>  

Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

 

Good news!

 

I was able to resolve the hydrolock with no apparent ill effect on the engine!  
It was quite an easy fix as well, didn't even need to mess with the injectors.

 

Here's what I did, following a suggestion of someone on this thread:

 

I disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold and connected my shop vac to 
the header outlet.   Then, with the vac running and all three decompression 
levers open, I turned the engine by hand a few times from the main pulley, then 
spun it a bit with the starter motor.

 

After closing the decompression levers, reconnecting the exhaust and setting up 
my water feed bucket - this time in the aft cabin and NOT up in the cockpit - I 
went for ignition.  It fired up more readily than I expected, and ran great 
with no new vibrations or noises.  The raw water pump impeller was completely 
intact and looked like new.

 

The oil was a little milky so I changed that twice, ran the motor for a while 
to get it up to temp, then finally winterized it from the bucket.

 

Hooray for a lesson learned without injury or great expense. 

 

 

Thanks for all the advice guys!

 

-Dave

 

 

 

 

Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the advice re Vodka and Hot Water tank. I have decided to
simply drain the tank and leave all valves open for expansion and not do
Vodka. 

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 8:21 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo
Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

 

Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as
an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The
drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always
some residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve
open for expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank
connections. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

John

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk, CT

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Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

Your  comments gives me an idea to flush the tank if necessary using an adaptor 
to a garden hose at the hot water output which I generally disconnect and tie 
to the input line for winterizing.

 

Thanks

John 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 8:37 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

 

I forgot to mention that one of the leading causes of water heater failures 
(home, marine, and mobile) is sediment collecting and creating hot spots on the 
elements.  The 3-way valve I suggested also ensures that a flush path is 
available for that sediment.  Many designs have the drain "T"ed off of the cold 
water inlet port so flushing really doesn't pass water through the heater at 
all.

Josh 

On Oct 27, 2015 6:36 PM, "John Russo via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Thanks for all the advice re Vodka and Hot Water tank. I have decided to simply 
drain the tank and leave all valves open for expansion and not do Vodka. 

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 8:21 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo
Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

 

Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as an 
alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The drain 
in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always some 
residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve open for 
expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank connections. 
Any advice would be appreciated.

 

John

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk, CT


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Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as
an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The
drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always
some residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve
open for expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank
connections. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

John

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk, CT

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Re: Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015

[John Russo via CnC-List]

There  is a parking lot for  the show and shuttle from the parking lot in 
Newport at the beach just past the  show. If I remember correctly it is $15 for 
the day including shuttle.

John
Arpeggio 32
Norwalk. CT 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015

I have stayed several times at the Best Western in West Greenwich but only in 
May.  The drive from there isn't bad over the Jamestown bridges - from memory 
+/- 35 minutes - but don't hold me to that

I presume there are parking lots for the boat show with shuttle buses. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 19, 2015, at 21:47, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Hi all, I'm throwing a line here and I'm looking for local knowledge of the 
 Newport area.
 
 Me and my girlfriend are looking to go at the Newport boat show and are 
 looking for accommodation. We are open to camping (tent) but is it a good 
 idea? We found the Melville pounds campground in Porthsmouth. Will the drive 
 be like really bad? Any comments please.
 
 airbnb has some closer options but nothing under 150$ a night for a room in 
 an apartment closer to the show... Higher price but maybe it's the way to go 
 to enjoy our stay?
 
 Thanks for your help local cncciers
 
 Bruno Lachance
 87 cc 33 mkII
 Bécassine
 new Richmond, Qc
 
 Envoyé de mon iPad
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Stus-List Universal 40

[John Russo via CnC-List]

A friend just purchased a 1984 Bristol 38 with a Universal 40 engine and
wondered if anyone could provide a wiring diagram for the engine and
electrical control panel etc that he can use as a starter diagram to help
trace out his wiring. I have been following the recent discussions re glow
plugs etc. and he does have as two button panel for the glow plugs and
starter and found a disconnected solenoid.

 

Thanks,

 

John

1984 Arpeggio

Norwalk, CT

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Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I am looking for a small light duty light weight  3/8 max bit size, 12 volt
cordless drill that has a 110 volt charger and also has a 12 volt cord with
cigarette lighter adaptor that can be used directly connected to the house
batteries. 

 

Does anyone have any recommendations? 

 

John

Arpeggio CC 32

Norwalk, CT

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Stus-List Thanks - 12Volt cordless drill

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for the responses re the 12 volt Cordless drill. I do have a
18 volt Black and Decker that has served me well over the past 10 years but
don't leave it on board after commissioning each spring. I do have an old
manual drill on board and I will probably stick with that to save space and
weight. 

 

Thanks Again!

 

John

Arpeggio 32

Norwalk CT

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Re: Stus-List This is very cool...

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Thanks Nathan – See you on the 23rd - John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 11:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List This is very cool...

 

Also this one:

 

http://windguru.cz

 

(e.g.: http://www.windguru.cz/int/index.php?sc=91822) 

 

Their very short term forecast work quite well for us; better than windfinder.

 

Marek

In Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-11-15 15:56
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List This is very cool...

 

I assume everyone knows this wind forecast site too:

 

http://www.windfinder.com

 

http://www.windfinder.com/weatherforecast/baddeck_bras_dor_lake

 

Ken H.

 

 

 

On 11 June 2015 at 14:38, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

That's a cool wind forecast site.  I like it.

Seems intuitive and easy to use.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 10:55 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Thought I would share this...

https://www.windyty.com/?43.580,-73.125,4 


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 tel:%28401%29%20419-4650  (cell)

 

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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[John Russo via CnC-List]

The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still
manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank
connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through
the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine)
I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers
at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the
joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant made
especially for plastic. Hope this helps.

 

John

Arpeggio 

CC 32

Norwalk, CT 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ  Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

 

Hi Tom,

I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original source
and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless as a
sealing medium 
 in compression fitting applications. 
In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the seal,
in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force. 

In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:



New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three way
valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the T
fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they
leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing
the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.   Also, I suspect
that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have
not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on
the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including
in residential applications, until they learned that it started to
deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.
The company is now out of business, of course.

These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the
tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll
break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my actual
question...

What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and
drying process?

Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?  

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try?
(My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)

As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B  

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/  
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
pretty sharp and seen most things.

John
CC 32 
Arpeggio  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.

I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
sailing season.

I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
is not leaking.  It's a mystery!

Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
originating from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Ebay Marine items listing

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I have listed the following items on Ebay and they can be found by entering
the following numbers in the search inquiry:

 

141539737045 - Automac  Alternator output controller with 50 Amp Ammeter -
Condition New - 

 

141542728811 - Jib Sheet  92 Ft  9/16 Sta Set  New England Ropes - Good
Condition

 

141542866505 - Jib Sheets (2) 46 ft matched set 7/16 Sta Set New England
Ropes - Good Condition

 

141543064371 - 110 Ft - 3/8 Sta Set X halyard - lightly used - Very Good
Condition

 

141544863705 - Sea Dog Stainless Louvered Vent- 5 X 4-5/8 - 6 vents - New
- in unopened package

 

141545134260 - Johnson 2 Cycle 2.3 thru 8 HP Original Service Manual - Like
new

 

141545001114 - Johnson 2 cycle 56 hp Owners/ Operators Manual - Good
condition

 

Ebay link is http://www.ebay.com/

 

John Russo

Arpeggio

CC 32 

Norwalk

 

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Stus-List My sailing stuff on EBay

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Just a heads up that I have listed the following on Ebay

 

 

110 ft 3/8 Sta Set X New England low stretch Spinnaker Halyard Red flec -
Very good condition - Lightly used - 

 

(2) - 46ft matched lengths of 7/16 New England Rope Sta Set double braided
Polyester Jib Sheets - Blue Flec- Moderate use - Good condition - 

 

92 Ft 9/16  Sta Set New England Ropes double braided polyester Jib Sheet -
Red Flec - Lightly used - very good condition 

 

(Above sheets were too large in diameter for new Lewmar ST40  winches
recently installed.)

 

New - Automac 50 Amp Alternator Positive controller - 50 amp ammeter has
internal shunt and can be mounted and used independently

 

Johnson 6.5 Hp 2 cycle outboard Operators Manual for J6 REIA engine - good
condition

 

Johnson/Evinrude  2.3 thru 8 Hp 2 cycle outboard Service Manual - Like New

 

Sea Dog Stainless Steel Polished Louvered Vent - width 5 ,height 4-5/8 -
part # 331390-1 -New (in original sealed package )

 

John 

Arpeggio CC 32

Norwalk, CT

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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Garhauer Marine fabricated a stainless goose neck for my 32 to work with a
solid vang. Very reasonable. Ask for Guido or Marc and send them your broken
goose neck for dimensions and mast shape.

 

John

 

Arpeggio

CC 32

Norwalk CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
N. Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 2:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

 

I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock
I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary
until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the
outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part
that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of
the ring was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only
assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I
have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just
broke; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a
new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  

 

Richard

1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River

 

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Robert,

 

If you ever do decide to install new insulation I can share a few tricks to 
make it easier as I re-insulated the compartment in my CC 32 last year.

 

I used material purchased from Defender which is reflective containing foam and 
rubber and lead which is impossible to drill holes in for mounting and the 
compartment does not allow room to swing a hammer to mount with the usual 
mounting hardware.

If I ever did it again I would glue the stuff in.

 

Anyhow, I tore the old stuff out and left in the mounting screws then made 
cardboard templets of the foam patters and put a  small amount of paint or 
magic marker on each screw head and pressed the cardboard in place. This gave 
me screw locations for the pattern and insulation. I then laid the pattern on 
the insulation to cut to shape and transferred the holes to the insulation 
using a small soldering Iron which burned through the insulation foam and 
rubber. A drill caught and twisted the foam and got caught messing up the 
insulation and took a lot of time removing. Then remove all the screws in the 
sides of the engine compartment and mount the insulation with fender washers on 
the  old screws. I then used metal backed duct tape on the ends and any joints 
of the insulation. See Arpeggio1984.info, web site under Projects 2013 for 
results. Looks and works good! 

 

John

Arpeggio

CC 32 1984

Norwalk, CT 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RPH via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 2:43 AM
To: Robert Hrabinsky; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides of the engine 
compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty mess. Surprisingly, it is 
possible for a substance to be both dusty and oily at the same time. On the 
bright side, after removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to give 
the little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It looks 100% 
better now and I think it will be easier to keep the engine clean.

 

I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust elbow at the 
moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power, I think that it may be worth 
it just to have a little more room in the engine compartment (it's amazing what 
an extra couple of inches can give you in a cramped space) . On the other hand, 
if the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back with a warning to 
others who might be contemplating taking the same steps. 

 

Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback. 

 

Robert H. 



 Original message 
From: Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 08-26-2014 9:28 AM (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without? 

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts of 
my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, 
there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting new 
insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am contemplating 
just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine compartment and 
going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake?

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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling Drilling w_Epoxy

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Just a note - My experience is to tape the hole below deck and pour in a
small amount of thickened epoxy which does not drip past the tape to form a
new epoxy seal or bottom layer when cured and then wet the cored out area
and then fill with thickened epoxy.

 

John

Arpeggio CC 32

Norwalk, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2014 12:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling  Drilling w_Epoxy

 

Kevin,

 

The epoxy cartridges are nice and easy to use, but to do the job right one
should wet out the hole with un-thickened epoxy before filling with
thickened epoxy.  Also, don't just fill an existing bolt hole.  Over dill
the hole and ream back any coring.  

 

That said, I prefer to mix the epoxy myself.  First un-thickened for wetting
out, then adding some colloidal silica to thicken for the filling via a
syringe.   For epoxy, I use either West System 105/205 or East System
1032/833.  They are near identical except East costs 1/3 less.  

 

 

-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





 

 

On Aug 8, 2014, at 11:51 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:





Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 11:46:16 -0400
From: Joel Aronson  mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: Kevin Driscoll  mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com
kevindrisc...@gmail.com,   mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling  Drilling w_Epoxy
Message-ID:
   
mailto:cael16p_z-clsxxvuvgysgb6fr6f-htsqnwb82f99ln6gvr2...@mail.gmail.com
cael16p_z-clsxxvuvgysgb6fr6f-htsqnwb82f99ln6gvr2...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Kevin,

I'd use West Six/10 epoxy cartridges.  Easy to work with and no waste
except for what is left in the tip. Buy lots of tips if you are doing it
over several weeks.  I don't know if GitRot is strong enough.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:




Happy weekend all,



I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I?m going with
butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for ?filling and
drilling? holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is *Git Rot*
appropriate for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for
when I have a spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the
better.



Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other ?How To? sites.



Thanks,

Kevin

30-2

PDX


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493

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Re: Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I would try removing the door to the vanity and the door to the head to
allow alternate access angles and plenty of padding as has been suggested. I
have approached this lying on my side.

 

John

Arpeggio

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Jacobs via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 10:32 AM
To: 'McElwreath, Daniel'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List remove head sink on c n c 32?

 

Before going in the water this Spring I replaced all the  waste hose and ran
thru the vanity in head.  This week I had to rebuild the par shower drain
pump so I had to remove that.  My question:  Can the head sink be removed to
allow access?  Working thru the small vanity door is an absolute BEAR.  I
have been reluctant to try and put the pump back, only because it is such a
pain.  I was even thinking of cutting the vanity wall out, including the
little door, and then reglassing when finished.  But I know what that would
look like.  Thanks for any advice.  Dan Mc on Tively II in City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the input.

 

John

Arpeggio

CC 32

Norwalk, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:39 PM
To: Rick Taillieu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

 

I agree with Rick on 60'..at the very least 48' each but if you use a
spin pole or whisker pole, the extra length will be convenient.  

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/06/18 4:56 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List wrote:

John,

 

The 32 owner’s manual says: 2 X 60’ of ½” double braid for the genoa sheets.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 CC 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo via CnC-List
Sent: June-18-14 14:58
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

 

I am about to purchase new sheets for my 135% Genoa to be compatible with my
new St 40 Primary winches and measured my old sheets up at  a total of 94
Ft. Seems a bit excessive. Some rough estimates get me to 84 Ft total. Any
sources and experience for the recommended length of sheets for a 135% on a
CC 32?

 

John

Arpeggio 1984

Norwalk, CT


  _  


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3972/7699 - Release Date: 06/18/14






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Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

[John Russo via CnC-List]

I am about to purchase new sheets for my 135% Genoa to be compatible with my
new St 40 Primary winches and measured my old sheets up at  a total of 94
Ft. Seems a bit excessive. Some rough estimates get me to 84 Ft total. Any
sources and experience for the recommended length of sheets for a 135% on a
CC 32?

 

John

Arpeggio 1984

Norwalk, CT

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Re: Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Thanks

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

 

John,

 

The 32 owner’s manual says: 2 X 60’ of ½” double braid for the genoa sheets.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 CC 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo via CnC-List
Sent: June-18-14 14:58
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 32 Genoa sheets

 

I am about to purchase new sheets for my 135% Genoa to be compatible with my
new St 40 Primary winches and measured my old sheets up at  a total of 94
Ft. Seems a bit excessive. Some rough estimates get me to 84 Ft total. Any
sources and experience for the recommended length of sheets for a 135% on a
CC 32?

 

John

Arpeggio 1984

Norwalk, CT

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3972/7699 - Release Date: 06/18/14

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

[John Russo]

Thanks Sam – I’m wondering if one drives and the other is an idler gear for 
Drum balance. I’ll crank the winch with the drum off to see what happens.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2014 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

 

John, 

 

It doesn't matter which one.

The important thing is that the drum(load) is supported by one of the pins that 
the gears turn on. 

If the ‎line puts load on the drum off the pin, there could be a tendency for 
the drum to cock slightly and the gears would not mesh true.

As long as one pin is supporting the line as it touches the drum, everything 
will remain true and all the load will pass though the drum to pin to bearings 
to central boss.

Your right, the instructions‎ are not clear. 

 

sam :-)

CC 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 


From: John Russo

Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 7:37 PM

To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

 

Help requested 

 

I am mounting my new Lewmar  EVO ST 40 winches tomorrow and the mounting 
diagram in the application brochure shows the output gear orientation to be 90 
degrees to the load as the correct orientation. This  makes sense but my 
winches are on the boat and I seem to remember that there are two gears 180 
degrees apart engaging the drum.  One gear is large and the other smaller and 
the mounting diagram shows only one gear of undetermined size. The parts 
diagram does not call either of these gears an output gear and both are part 
#19 and called ratchet gears. Does anyone know which gear is the output gear 
driving the drum?

 

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

John

Arpeggio 1984 CC32 

Norwalk, CT





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Re: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

[John Russo]

I went to the boat and installed the ST40 Lewmar winched today. The proper 
orientation to the load is 90 degrees to the support pin of the big gear. 
Lewmar instructions leave a lot to be desired.

 

John

Arpeggio

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2014 7:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

 

Thanks Sam – I’m wondering if one drives and the other is an idler gear for 
Drum balance. I’ll crank the winch with the drum off to see what happens.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2014 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

 

John, 

 

It doesn't matter which one.

The important thing is that the drum(load) is supported by one of the pins that 
the gears turn on. 

If the ‎line puts load on the drum off the pin, there could be a tendency for 
the drum to cock slightly and the gears would not mesh true.

As long as one pin is supporting the line as it touches the drum, everything 
will remain true and all the load will pass though the drum to pin to bearings 
to central boss.

Your right, the instructions‎ are not clear. 

 

sam :-)

CC 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 


From: John Russo

Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 7:37 PM

To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

 

Help requested 

 

I am mounting my new Lewmar  EVO ST 40 winches tomorrow and the mounting 
diagram in the application brochure shows the output gear orientation to be 90 
degrees to the load as the correct orientation. This  makes sense but my 
winches are on the boat and I seem to remember that there are two gears 180 
degrees apart engaging the drum.  One gear is large and the other smaller and 
the mounting diagram shows only one gear of undetermined size. The parts 
diagram does not call either of these gears an output gear and both are part 
#19 and called ratchet gears. Does anyone know which gear is the output gear 
driving the drum?

 

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

John

Arpeggio 1984 CC32 

Norwalk, CT

 

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Stus-List Lewmar EVO ST 40 winch mounting orientation

[John Russo]

Help requested 

 

I am mounting my new Lewmar  EVO ST 40 winches tomorrow and the mounting
diagram in the application brochure shows the output gear orientation to be
90 degrees to the load as the correct orientation. This  makes sense but my
winches are on the boat and I seem to remember that there are two gears 180
degrees apart engaging the drum.  One gear is large and the other smaller
and the mounting diagram shows only one gear of undetermined size. The parts
diagram does not call either of these gears an output gear and both are part
#19 and called ratchet gears. Does anyone know which gear is the output gear
driving the drum?

 

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

John

Arpeggio 1984 CC32 

Norwalk, CT

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Stus-List How not to use a Powerful Spot light

[John Russo]

One night at anchor I was wakened by the rattling of the mast rigging an
looked out to find a cormorant perched on my spreader so it thought I would
fix him by surprising him with my ship battery sourced intense narrow beamed
spot light and sure enough scared the s--- out of him to my chagrin and
extra work in the morning. Never again!

 

John

Arpeggio

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2014 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld spot/flood light discussion

 

I've got a Stanley similar to what Rick linked to but mine is not lithium. I
paid $15 for it when it was on sale. It's really, really bright and the beam
is narrow and will go a ways. It can be locked into the on position. It is
rechargeable. About your concern though, I charge mine very rarely and it
sits unused for months at a time and always has a charge when I need it. For
that kind of money you can buy 4 of them, one of them will always be
charged!

 

I consider flashlights to be somewhat disposable. I've never had one last
longer than a few years for whatever reason; it gets lost, broken, the bulb
goes and I can't find a replacement .. whatever. I no longer spend big bucks
on flashlights when there are so many inexpensive options out there. I've
had the Stanley for a couple of years now and it hasn't quit or failed me
yet. At $15 it's hard to beat.

 

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 9:59 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
wrote:

We found a light which has the ability to switch from white to red. Great at
night to keep your vision.

 

Gary

- Original Message 

From: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com  

To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 5:34 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld spot/flood light discussion

 

Rich,

I know me.  When I need the thing, it won't be charged.  It's that way with
my handheld VHF.  I only remember to recharge it before a long cruise.  I'd
go for a battery powered with spare batteries before a rechargeable light.
I have a 12 VDC receptacle at the helm station.

To Joel's point I'm often singlehanding so my paradigm is using it primarily
in the cockpit.  You and Joel raise valid points for consideration.

That's why I wanted a discussion.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote:

I'm curious, Dennis;  how come no rechargeable or battery lamps?  There's no
doubt that the 12V halogen lights with the automotive type lamp/reflector
assemblies give the best long distance narrow beam light, but I much prefer
the units with the small rechargeable lead acid batteries. I did see a
couple of super LED battery operated lights at the outdoor show this weekend
past, but they were around $200 a pop. I find that I don't use flashlights
very often. Spreader lights are a great convenience. 

Rich


On Mar 11, 2014, at 18:14, Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com wrote:

There have been a lot of advances in lights since I bought my existing
handheld spot light.  Been thinking about a new one.  

REQUIREMENT:  12 VDC plug in.  NOT rechargeable.  Probably LED.

I'd like some discussion on the selection criteria for a new one; not just
I have this one and I like it.  

*   For instance, can you have too many lumens?  I think you can.  How
bright is bright enough?  Too much light reflects and causes night
blindness.

*   LED vs halogen vs ??

*   If LED, number of bulbs.  Color?  Blue white?  White?

*   Width of beam.  Basically spot vs flood light

*   Any important considerations I didn't mention

Finally, any lights that you think particularly suit the needs of sailors.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] E7 Question

[John Russo]

I had the same situation with my  A50 so went to the boat and did a
continuity check between ship ground and the cable output and was surprised
to find that the Ground and Positive were positioned inversely to my
expectations so don't take any chances. My A50 is working fine at home. Ask
Raymarine on their Web site. I find them very helpful.

John
Arpeggio CC 32
Norwalk

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 1:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List E7 Question

Hello all, I have my E7 at home and want to send it for replacement under
their recall.
I need to power it up to archive my routes and waypoints however the wiring
harness is at the boat (2.5 hours away).
The + and - power pins on the connector are obvious, but does anyone know
which is which, I am afraid of reversing polarity and damaging the unit.
I checked the manual and searched online but came up with nothing. Also
checked resistance between pins and casing to ID the negative pin.
However probably due to capacitance on the board, there are funky resistance
readings and its hard to tell which pin is ground.

Cheers


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
CC 34
Lions Head ON







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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: CC 32 stern pulpit

[John Russo]

Steve,

 

My hull # is 224. I suspect that Tom's hull # may be 197.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit

 

John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many.
I'm hull #59.

 

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com
wrote:

John,

 

FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory.  Hull number
1197.

 

Tom Anderson

CC 32 Nonpareil

Marblehead, MA

 

95 days to launch

97 days to first Wednesday Night Race

 





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo

Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

 

I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting
the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above
the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor
mount and  a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which
I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after
cutting. Any thoughts?   I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a
little less HP.

 

John

Arpeggio 32

Norwalk CT


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Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

[John Russo]

 

I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting
the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above
the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor
mount and  a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which
I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after
cutting. Any thoughts?   I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a
little less HP.

 

John

Arpeggio 32

Norwalk CT 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

My stern rail has a lower rail and a gate instead of an upper rail.  Yes,
its a pain!  I wonder how much you would weaken the rail if it were split
with two gates too.  However, I only use the ladder when the boat is on the
hard.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com
wrote:

I've seen people add lifeline gates. It involves having the pulpit modified
of course (middle section removed). Yeah, it's a pain climbing over the
rail. I always instruct my guests to grab a hold of the backstay to steady
themselves. (split backstay)

 

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote:

Has anyone put a hinged gate in the stern rail so that one can clamber up
the swim ladder and not have to climb over the rail?   

I'm thinking this might make the stern rail too weak when the gate is open.


Has this been discussed?  Anybody bothered by this? 

-- 
Ron  Lisa

35-3

Mr. Bop

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Climing over the stern rail is a pain

[John Russo]

Thanks,

 

That is encouraging! 

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fair,
Mike
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 3:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

I have 1 inch rails, double except at the ladder where it is single. I
sometimes keep a 85 lb outboard clamped next to it and I have a radar pole
outboard to the motor with no issues.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike Fair

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

 

I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting
the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above
the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor
mount and  a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which
I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after
cutting. Any thoughts?   I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a
little less HP.

 

John

Arpeggio 32

Norwalk CT 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

My stern rail has a lower rail and a gate instead of an upper rail.  Yes,
its a pain!  I wonder how much you would weaken the rail if it were split
with two gates too.  However, I only use the ladder when the boat is on the
hard.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com
wrote:

I've seen people add lifeline gates. It involves having the pulpit modified
of course (middle section removed). Yeah, it's a pain climbing over the
rail. I always instruct my guests to grab a hold of the backstay to steady
themselves. (split backstay)

 

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote:

Has anyone put a hinged gate in the stern rail so that one can clamber up
the swim ladder and not have to climb over the rail?   

I'm thinking this might make the stern rail too weak when the gate is open.


Has this been discussed?  Anybody bothered by this? 

-- 
Ron  Lisa

35-3

Mr. Bop

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Now Engine

[John Russo]

Bob,

Before wishful thinking for the 3GMF which won't fit in the 32, Yanmar does
makes a 3YM20 which is a tight fit with a mod to the glass supports and Beta
makes a Beta 20 which is a direct replacement to the 2GMF without any mods
according to boat show sales reps and installers. Both are 20 hp and exhaust
and intakes appear to be on the opposite sides compared to 2GMF. I hope my
2GMF which is very reliable last a long time even if boat is slightly
underpowered.

John
Arpeggio 




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; w...@wbryant.com
Subject: Stus-List Now Engine

Gary:

My engine is a Yanmar 2GMF.wish it was a 3gm30f.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/01/25 2:43 PM, ahycr...@cox.net wrote:
 are all you guys talking about the yanmar 3gm30f engine?



 Gary Kolc
  Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:
 Absolutely.  I think that hours of heat on that hose/mixer elbow 
 connection makes it impossible to remove without cutting it off.  I 
 keep a section of 2 exhaust hose stuck in the back of the boat, just 
 in case I need to do it again. Maybe next time I'll try some Permatex 
 #2 gasket sealant, which handles extended high temps without getting
crusty.
 There's always something new to try and figure out.

 Wal

 John Russo wrote:
 The hardest part was the short hose interfacing the elbow with the 
 muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
 There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to 
 cut off the interface hose and replace it with a new one.

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Mixing Elbow

[John Russo]

Rob,

I have the identical boat and replaced the entire exhaust assembly and
essentially went through all the moves that you did working from behind and
then in front of the engine. The hardest part was the short hose interfacing
the elbow with the muffler and I had a problem removing and reconnecting.
There doesn't appear to be any short cuts unless you are willing to cut off
the interface hose and replace it with a new one. I just did this job last
season and should get 5-7 years out of it. 

John 
Arpeggio
Norwalk CT

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 7:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Mixing Elbow

Jake:

Yes, I did remove the mixing elbow and exhaust flange together from the
exhaust manifold..it was the only way to remove the mixing elbowand
then it was challenge to separate the mixing elbow from the flange on a work
benchbut with patience and a little help of a pipe extension on the big
wrench, it separated.

My friend that helped had 'headless bolts' can I could hand screw into the
exhaust manifold to guide the combined exhaust flange and new mixing elbow
in place.  I put two in diagonally, put the other two diagonal permanent
bolts in, removed the two 'headless bolts' and put the next 
two bolts intighten updone.   It helped when you are working on 
your side left handed.  Also put in a new gasket between the flange and
manifold.

There was no problem with the exhaust hose from the muffler back to the thru
hull...other than standing on my head working on the thru hull connection.

The problem was connecting the short 18 hose from the mixing elbow to the
muffler..because of the angle to the two and the stiffness of the
'marine grade hard walled exhaust hose' I chose, for a long time I could not
connect the hose over one of the two.the angle and stiffness of the hose
and the fact I am not able to work with both hands adequately, made it a
frustrating jobI could get one on but not the 
other.After multiple attempts, I attached the hose to the mixing 
elbow and inserted a big flat head screw driver into the hose, which gave me
the leverage to bend it enough to begin to place it over the muffler
intakea few tries with the screw driver, success and it was now
beer time.

As with every first time job, if I were to do it again (which I hope I never
have to), I could do it with more know how and less frustration.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.







On 2014/01/24 6:26 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
 Rob,

 Working with exhaust hose can be very challenging.  When I replaced 
 mine, I used 90 degree fiberglass elbows.  It was far superior to the 
 kinked mess my boat came with.  They are much easier to put together 
 than a long piece of stiff hose.  I usually remove the mixing elbow 
 along with the exhaust manifold.  It's much easier to put them in a 
 vice on my bench than try to separate them on the boat.

 Jake


 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
 Robert Abbott
 Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 8:56 PM
 To: ahycr...@cox.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Now Mixing Elbow

 Gary:

 Problem with changing the mixing elbow was the limited and awkward 
 space to work in on my boat..access is in through the port locker 
 into the engine compartmentaccess is restricted because of hot 
 water heater in the port locker (could be removed but I didn't, extra 
 work).mixing elbow in on the starboard side so I am lying on my 
 right side using my left hand.I am 'right handed'.

 Ended up taking the mixing elbow off by working from the front of the 
 engine.  A friend had done it before and helped me.  He had blank(s)
 or bolts without heads that could be screwed into the exhaust 
 manifold to guide and hold the mixing elbow in place while you 
 attached the permanent ones.  Doing that 'blind' from the front of the 
 engine or trying to do it with one hand would be almost impossible.

 Then attaching the hose from the mixing elbow to the new Vernalift 
 muffler proved to be a challenge..used a heat gun to soften the 
 hosejust difficult to work with one hand much of the time.

 Rob



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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Adjustable genoa car system for CC 38

[John Russo]

Peter,

 

I have installed a Garhauer system like those you show and Garhauer
fabricated the hardware to be compatible with my existing tracks on my 1984
CC 32 at no additional charge. Give them a call and ask for Guido at 909 -
985-- 9993. Have your track dimensions available. Mine was a Merriman 1.25
I beam.

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk,CT

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for CC 38

 

Hi, 

has anyone looked into getting an adjustable(re-tractable) geona car system
for an old style CC genoa tracks?

By adjustable I mean something like this, but components would have to be
compatible with the CC style genoa track..

http://www.southernseasmarine.com.au/image/cache/data/EZ%20Glide-500x500.jpg

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Chartplotter Question

[John Russo]

Steve,

I had a similar need with my E-80 and installed a Raymarine A50 at the helm
but had to also install a converter for sea talk to sea talkNG so the units
could talk to each other. You may not have to do this with the E7. See
arpeggio1984.info web site under projects 2013 for further details.

John
Arpeggio CC 32
Norwalk CT


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Chartplotter Question

Two years ago I  replaced my old Magellan GPS (it was a dinosaur) with a
Raymarine E7 chartplotter.
I wanted it at the helm, but for expediency initially set it up at the chart
table, same place as the old one.
The plan being eventually to move it to the helm in a navpod.

However over past 2 summers its actually worked well at the chart table.
Its integrated (Seatalk NG) with my other electronics so when racing I will
pop down below and set the waypoints for the helmslady and she can see the
new course, SOG, COG, DTW, etc. on an ST60 multidisplay at the helm.
All in all not bad but I would still like to have the chart plotter at the
helm. Or at least some kind of chartplotter functionality.

What does the group think of these options:
- is there a repeater screen of some kind which can be put at the helm?
- how well do ipads work with the E7 - are they truly functional or is the
Raymarine app just a toy? 
- and the reverse - chartplotter at the helm and ipad at the chart table.
Better for sun and rain considerations.

Am headed to the Toronto boat show this weekend to explore options.
Aren't boat shows great (though for whom - the sellers or the buyers -  I'm
not sure, maybe both)

Cheers


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
CC 34
Lions Head ON





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Stus-List FW: Classic E -80 Raymarine Radar tutiorial

[John Russo]

I am considering getting the following Radar Tutorial CD from
http://www.bennettmarine.com

if it provides more insight into the E 80 radar use beyond what is in the
E-80 manual. (See CD contents below ) Does anyone have any experience with
this CD and do you think it is worth getting for $35 US?

 

John

Arpeggio CC 32

Norwalk CT

 

From: processing...@gmail.com [mailto:processing...@gmail.com] On Behalf Of
tona gonzales
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2014 6:24 PM
To: John Russo
Subject: Re: Classic E -80 Raymarine Radar tutiorial

 

Ordering Item #: N7802DVD

Title: RAYMARINE E Series: E80, E120 RADAR

Website Link: 

Program Contents and Instruction:

This step-by-step, instructional training program walks you through the key
features and functions of the Raymarine E80 unit.  

Specific Subjects Covered include:

. Radar overview

. Getting Started

. Screens

. Gain

. Sea Clutter

. Rain Clutter

. Modes

. Alarms

. Customizing

. MARPA

. Promos

*

 

 

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Barient# 10 winch

[John Russo]

Paul,

 

Thanks for the heads up. If they are in Good condition as they appear in the
photo I would be interested if the Drum diameter at the bottom measures
4-5/8 and the overall height is 3-3/4 . I only need one and am trying to
match what I presently have on the port cabin top. I find that the Barient
#10 came in many different sizes not counting the 10P which is the smallest
of the bunch.

 

Thanks in advance for your efforts in my behalf.

 

John 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Baker
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 10:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

Hi John,
I saw these on our local listings,
http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/barient-10-winch-pair_21171681 ,
I'm going to see the guy on Friday for some other parts, want me to take a
look at these for you?  For $80 it might be worth a punt although I have no
idea how much it would cost to ship them to you.
Cheers,
Paul.




On Dec 2, 2013, at 7:19 PM, John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net wrote:

Paul,

 

Thanks for the response. The16 is a bit too big for the job and the space
available but I will keep it in mind for any future applications. I will
soon have a couple of Barient 22's on my hands that I am replacing with
Lewmar ST 40 EVO winches.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Baker
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 10:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

I have a pair of stainless Barient 16 I want to sell, bigger is always
better :)


On 13-11-30 05:31 PM, John Russo wrote:

I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the
mainsheet winch on my 1984 CC 32 located on my cabin top port side. I
intend to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the traveler.
I had a 2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the job. It is
for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple clutch for my
main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.

 

The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 43/8 at the base and is
33/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the 1984
-32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some #10's
listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.

 

Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

 

Thanks 

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT 







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Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[John Russo]

Brent the 22’s are two speed and now I will probably not get them off the boat 
until spring and am sort of contemplating their use for the spinnaker. Won’t 
know for a bit . Does your good #10 measure 4-3/8” Diameter  at the Drum base 
and 3-3/4 ‘ high? A quick peek under the base should tell you the material or I 
could look up the weight to try to determine it.

John  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 9:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

John, the Barient 22s have got my attention. My mkV came with 18s and I find 
them slightly under powered when I'm in the should be putting up the 100 
zone. I happen to have a couple of Barient 10s sitting around that I was going 
to add to the cabin top arrangement. One unfortunately has a crack in the 
uppermost portion but the other is perfect. They are 1984 black ones of 
whatever Dwarfian material they are made of. Let me know what you want for the 
22s. 

Are they 2 speed?

 

Brent Driedger

CC 27-V

Frozen Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 2, 2013, at 7:19 PM, John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net wrote:

Paul,

 

Thanks for the response. The16 is a bit too big for the job and the space 
available but I will keep it in mind for any future applications. I will soon 
have a couple of Barient 22’s on my hands that I am replacing with Lewmar ST 40 
EVO winches.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Baker
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 10:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

I have a pair of stainless Barient 16 I want to sell, bigger is always better :)


On 13-11-30 05:31 PM, John Russo wrote:

I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the 
mainsheet winch on my 1984 CC 32 located on my cabin top port side. I intend 
to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the traveler. I had a 
2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the job. It is for 
multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple clutch for my main 
halyard , outhaul, and Vang.

 

The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 43/8 at the base and is 
33/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the 1984 -32 
spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some #10’s listed 
but none with the above dimensions or AL.

 

Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

 

Thanks 

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT 







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Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[John Russo]

Interesting – My 10 P measures 4” Dia and 3-1/2 in high. Weird! 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 10:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

Hi John. That's exactly the dimensions. It's a 10P. I'll try to send a picture. 
The cracked one is in my workshop but the good one is tucked away on my boat 
for the winter. It feels like aluminium

 

Brent. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 4, 2013, at 9:43 PM, John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net wrote:

Brent the 22’s are two speed and now I will probably not get them off the boat 
until spring and am sort of contemplating their use for the spinnaker. Won’t 
know for a bit . Does your good #10 measure 4-3/8” Diameter  at the Drum base 
and 3-3/4 ‘ high? A quick peek under the base should tell you the material or I 
could look up the weight to try to determine it.

John  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 9:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

John, the Barient 22s have got my attention. My mkV came with 18s and I find 
them slightly under powered when I'm in the should be putting up the 100 
zone. I happen to have a couple of Barient 10s sitting around that I was going 
to add to the cabin top arrangement. One unfortunately has a crack in the 
uppermost portion but the other is perfect. They are 1984 black ones of 
whatever Dwarfian material they are made of. Let me know what you want for the 
22s. 

Are they 2 speed?

 

Brent Driedger

CC 27-V

Frozen Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 2, 2013, at 7:19 PM, John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net wrote:

Paul,

 

Thanks for the response. The16 is a bit too big for the job and the space 
available but I will keep it in mind for any future applications. I will soon 
have a couple of Barient 22’s on my hands that I am replacing with Lewmar ST 40 
EVO winches.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Baker
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 10:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

I have a pair of stainless Barient 16 I want to sell, bigger is always better :)


On 13-11-30 05:31 PM, John Russo wrote:

I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the 
mainsheet winch on my 1984 CC 32 located on my cabin top port side. I intend 
to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the traveler. I had a 
2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the job. It is for 
multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple clutch for my main 
halyard , outhaul, and Vang.

 

The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 43/8 at the base and is 
33/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the 1984 -32 
spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some #10’s listed 
but none with the above dimensions or AL.

 

Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

 

Thanks 

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT 








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Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

[John Russo]

Paul,

 

Thanks for the response. The16 is a bit too big for the job and the space
available but I will keep it in mind for any future applications. I will
soon have a couple of Barient 22's on my hands that I am replacing with
Lewmar ST 40 EVO winches.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Baker
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 10:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient# 10 winch

 

I have a pair of stainless Barient 16 I want to sell, bigger is always
better :)


On 13-11-30 05:31 PM, John Russo wrote:

I am looking for a vintage 1984 or later Barient #10 winch to match the
mainsheet winch on my 1984 CC 32 located on my cabin top port side. I
intend to use the 2nd winch  on the starboard cabin top aft of the traveler.
I had a 2nd or 3rd hand Barient #10P there which did not do the job. It is
for multipurpose use to be positioned aft of a Lewmar triple clutch for my
main halyard , outhaul, and Vang.

 

The #10 that I have on the Port cabin top measures 43/8 at the base and is
33/4 tall. It is greyish-Maroon in color and I assume Aluminum as the 1984
-32 spec calls that out. I have checked out Ebay and there are some #10's
listed but none with the above dimensions or AL.

 

Any suggestions as to where I can find one?

 

Thanks 

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk CT 






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Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 autopilot problem

[John Russo]

I have had good results by Contacting Raymarine on their technical forum.
Either direct answers from them or from other members. Try following site.

 

http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=1154

 

John

Arpeggio CC 32

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2013 5:52 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine ST4000 autopilot problem

 

I had a problem with my autopilot today I could use some feedback on.  For
the last few weeks, the lever that engages/disengages the autopilot would
periodically release so that the autopilot ceased being able to turn the
wheel.  Once engaged, it seemed to work fine, but the initial engagement
seemed to not always stay locked in.  Today, as luck would have it, I was
maneuvering in the 10 minutes before that start gun, engaged the pilot to
make and adjustment forward, and could not get it to disengage.  The wheel
was effectively locked so I could steer with the autopilot, but not by hand.
After futzing with it for a few minutes, (trying to not hit someone trying
to start) I gave up, lowered the sails, threw out the anchor and proceeded
to remove the unit from the wheel.  We only started a few minutes late, but
it was annoying to say the least.  I have brought the unit home and I can
see no way to get inside it to see if I can figure out what is going on with
the connect/disconnect lever.  No disassembly instructions in the manual.
Is this a send it back to the factory, throw it in the trash or other
solution?  Thanks- Dave

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Using a hammer drill to remove corroded fastener

[John Russo]

Pete,

 

Stainless screw corrosion to aluminum mast is probably the culprit. Heat the
screw with Napa torch until it is ret hot which breaks the corrosion then
let it cool a bit and then hit with a impact wrench and proper bit.
Generally will do it.

 

John

Arpeggio CC 32

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly
petew
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 10:14 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Using a hammer drill to remove corroded fastener

 

I want to add a T track slide to my mast for a whisker pole.  The mast
tracking is in place, but I can't break the bottom fastener, in order to
install the T-Track.  Likely, corrosion b/t the fastener and mast is the
issue.
 
Has anyone had any experience - good or bad - using a hammer drill to break
the corrosion bond??
 
 
 
thanks.
 
 
 
 
Pete W. 
CC30 MKII

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Re: Stus-List Engine swap out.

[John Russo]

I would go with the new black ones which are identical to those on my 2GMF
and look like they would distribute the load better as well as dampen more
than your old ones.

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:24 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Engine swap out.

 

I start the process today of swapping out the 33 year old 2gm 13 raw water
cooled with the 1984 2GM20F fresh water cooled.

I have 2 differnt engine mounts one set on the engine I'm pulling out and
one set that hangs on the new engine I purchased on e-bay? What is the
better set. Please follow the link to see the photos an let me know your
opinions.

Thanks Capt, Burt


http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-wo
rk-2.html#post1063587

 

-- 
The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails. 

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Re: Stus-List Arpeggio Web Site

[John Russo]

Steve,

 

Winch is a big help to wife and I use it in stronger wind close hauled. I
have new sails for next season and expect to trim less. Moving the new
traveler however is easy with the solid vang adjusted.

 

John 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Arpeggio Web Site

 

Hi John, great site and I hope the shoulder heals up quickly and completely.
I own a 32 as well and the pics of your running rigging improvements are
really valuable. Do you find you need to use the winch to trim the main
sail? My 32 has all the original hardware and sheeting in the main requires
the winch, which isn't optimal. 

 

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 8:52 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
wrote:

John,

 

Great site!  Sorry about the shoulder.  Hopefully you can catch rides on
friends boats.

 

Joel

 

On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 11:59 AM, John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net
wrote:

This spring I have assembled a Web Site on Arpeggio, a 1984 CC 32 that
covers many aspects of the boat and upgrades and cruises that I have made
since it's purchase in 2005.

 

I did this instead of commissioning Arpeggio and sailing this season due to
a shoulder operation and necessary recovery which is going very well. Web
site follows: (nothing fancy)   http://arpeggio1984.info

 

Thanks to Tom Anderson for pictures and suggestion for Garhauer solid vang
and Harken traveler upgrades, which were major improvements.

Contacts can be made on or off the list. See contact section.

John Russo

Arpeggio 1984 CC 32

Norwalk, CT  

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 tel:301%20541%208551  


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Stus-List Arpeggio Web Site

[John Russo]

This spring I have assembled a Web Site on Arpeggio, a 1984 CC 32 that
covers many aspects of the boat and upgrades and cruises that I have made
since it's purchase in 2005.

 

I did this instead of commissioning Arpeggio and sailing this season due to
a shoulder operation and necessary recovery which is going very well. Web
site follows: (nothing fancy)   http://arpeggio1984.info

 

Thanks to Tom Anderson for pictures and suggestion for Garhauer solid vang
and Harken traveler upgrades, which were major improvements.

Contacts can be made on or off the list. See contact section.

John Russo

Arpeggio 1984 CC 32

Norwalk, CT  

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] dingy dinghy

[John Russo]

Double Whoops! - Aerospace 303- not 313

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Walter
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List dingy dinghy

 


Greetings,

Our 8-year-old Avon hypalon dinghy needs refreshing. It is dirty and faded.
Any suggestions to clean/protect?

Thank you,
Richard
1978 36-footer
s/v INDIGO
Watch Hill

 

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] dingy dinghy

[John Russo]

Our older dinghy brightened up considerably with Amazon Hypalon cleaner
followed with something 301 polisher and protector.

 

John

Arpeggio CC 32

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Walter
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List dingy dinghy

 


Greetings,

Our 8-year-old Avon hypalon dinghy needs refreshing. It is dirty and faded.
Any suggestions to clean/protect?

Thank you,
Richard
1978 36-footer
s/v INDIGO
Watch Hill

 

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Re: Stus-List [SPAM] dingy dinghy

[John Russo]

Whoops! Not 301 but Aerospace 313 protectant.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Walter
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List dingy dinghy

 


Greetings,

Our 8-year-old Avon hypalon dinghy needs refreshing. It is dirty and faded.
Any suggestions to clean/protect?

Thank you,
Richard
1978 36-footer
s/v INDIGO
Watch Hill

 

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Re: Stus-List Electronics at the helm

[John Russo]

Remove the Binnacle guard leaving the floor mounts in place and drill holes
through the cockpit floor for the wires. Keep insides of mounts clean so
guard fits back in. I started with a small drill then over drilled in size
and then filled with epoxy to seal any coring and then drilled the size for
the wires. Pretty thick with plywood floor etc.  Then drilled hole where
wires are to come out the Binnacle guard (hardest part to do). Since I ran
many wires into an Edson pod for three instruments , I had to align holes in
each side of the Pod binnacle interface with Edson mounts so no wires are
exposed. Run the wires through before remounting the Binnacle Guard
simplifies the snaking of wires etc. Good Luck!

John
Arpeggio

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics at the helm

BTW,

you'll need a coat hanger or electrician's fish tape and a helper.
I'd also run a messenger line to make the next one easier.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On May 4, 2013, at 11:10 AM, Robert Gallagher trys...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am getting ready to fully wire my Chartplotter/depth/ to power, depth
transducer, and Ais GPS that is located down below.

 There is not enough room to go through the pedestal as the autopilot and
engine cables are taking up most of the space and I don't want anything to
get tangled.

 The pedestal guard is the obvious choice but there are NO HOLES down
there.  Only nuts on studs or bolts at the base of the guard tubes.

 HELP!

 A new pedestal guard seems like overkill just to run wires.  And yes, I
need the chartplotter at the helm.

 Thanks in advance, I know someone will come up with a solution :) 
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Re: Stus-List CC 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

[John Russo]

Al.

 

I have a 25 lb CQR anchor and put it in position on the standard 32 roller
and push the anchor pin through a hole in the anchor which was already there
and it  doesn't go anywhere. This greatly simplifies anchoring as the
hardest part for me is to get it out of the anchor locker and past the
roller furler base. I do this once a year now. I do however secure a thin
rubber matt over the anchor locker hatch so the shank does not grind it up
if it moves and it does a little. I may change this to a small piece of
outdoor carpet to avoid streaking the anchor locker hatch and can also tie
the anchor shank to the toe rail. Hope this helps

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 CC 32

Norwalk, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Al Woods
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 32 Securing Anchor on Bow

 

I have a Delta 22lb fast set that I would like to keep on the bow roller on
my 32 occasionally.   Last year I rigged up something with carabiners and
nylon webbing that was not particularly elegant or secure.  I have purchased
2 different anchor tensioners that I have not have the courage to install
(Windline  Lewmar).  How can I secure that thing up there with the least
amount of work?  

 

Al Woods

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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[John Russo]

Kim,

If I understand your set up the screws are long and go directly into
pedestal and do not hold anything else. Keep dribbling some liquid wrench
down screws and/or squirt PB Blaster with extender tube on screw/pedestal
interface through new or any hole you find like wires for compass light.
After soaking overnight try tapping on screw driver with hammer while
turning or use small impact wrench. Grinding heads of screws will be
difficult due to tool access. Good luck!

John
Arpeggio
CC 32 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kim Brown
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

I have been shamed into checking and lubing the steering by the crowd.
Bottom end looks fine- no meat hooks tension seems about right etc.  However
I can't get the machine screws holding the binnacle loose. Upon removing the
compass, there are four large slotted screws (with plastic/nylon isolating
washers under their heads. They head down through the bottom of the nice
chrome can that holds the compass.  Next layer of this wedding cake is the
throttle/shift piece, then a thin slice for the pedestal guard then the
actual steering pedestal.  Does any one know if these screws  actually
thread into the throttle/shift layer or just pass through all the way
through to steering pedestal itself.  Don't see any obvious way to apply
PBBlaster, heat or other means of persuasion.  If I just slice the heads off
am I going to have enough of a stub to work with or am I likely to have to
drill them out?  Guess I could leave well enough alone but that is just
asking for failure at an inopportune time
Kim Brown
Trust Me!!! 35-3 



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Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32

[John Russo]

I am planning on replacing the original toilet on my 1984 CC32 with a
Jabsco compact model # 29030-3000. The original toilet is a Wilcox
Crittenden and I have rebuilt the pump once without very good success.
Overall Dimensions of the two toilets are nearly identical but mounting
holes appear different. I have contacted Jabsco re mounting dimensions of
the existing toilet for info without success and looked on line without
results. Has anyone done this replacement? If I need new mounting holes how
do I  get a bolt under the boats toilet fiberglass platform and hold it to
tighten a nut on the toilet base for mounting ? Any experience or
suggestions?

 

John

Arpeggio 

1984 CC 32

Norwalk CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32

[John Russo]

Thanks Pierre,

 

That simplifies it a whole bunch. 

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pierre
Tremblay
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 4:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32

 

Hi John,

 

I did it last September. Replaced the 1988 Wilcox with a Jabsco household
bowl. On my 38-3, there is no bolt under the toilet floor. It is solid wood
under the fiberglass, and those fasteners are wood screw studs with a round
head nuts.

 

I had to switch the pump mechanism to the left because the hole where the
hose come from the bilge was to close to the head output and I could not
properly shape the hoses.

 

I was able to reuse two of the four screw holes.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Pierre Tremblay

Avalanche

CC38-3, Sail 54988

 

De : John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : samedi 16 mars 2013 15h52
Objet : Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32





I am planning on replacing the original toilet on my 1984 CC32 with a
Jabsco compact model # 29030-3000. The original toilet is a Wilcox
Crittenden and I have rebuilt the pump once without very good success.
Overall Dimensions of the two toilets are nearly identical but mounting
holes appear different. I have contacted Jabsco re mounting dimensions of
the existing toilet for info without success and looked on line without
results. Has anyone done this replacement? If I need new mounting holes how
do I  get a bolt under the boats toilet fiberglass platform and hold it to
tighten a nut on the toilet base for mounting ? Any experience or
suggestions?

 

John

Arpeggio 

1984 CC 32

Norwalk CT

 


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Re: Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32

[John Russo]

Thanks for the input Dennis.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32

 

John,

Instead of rebuilding the head, investigate replacing the entire pump
assembly and the joker valve.  If the bowl is in good shape and you can find
the correct pump assembly, this might be a very viable option.

If you choose to replace the head, I suspect stainless hex head lag screws
will be your best option for bolting it down.  Most heads are simply screwed
down.  If indeed it is a bolt and nut underneath configuration, then look at
toggler snaptoggles.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=50845

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville LA 

 

 


  _  


From: John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 2:52 PM
Subject: Stus-List Head replacement on CC 32

 

I am planning on replacing the original toilet on my 1984 CC32 with a
Jabsco compact model # 29030-3000. The original toilet is a Wilcox
Crittenden and I have rebuilt the pump once without very good success.
Overall Dimensions of the two toilets are nearly identical but mounting
holes appear different. I have contacted Jabsco re mounting dimensions of
the existing toilet for info without success and looked on line without
results. Has anyone done this replacement? If I need new mounting holes how
do I  get a bolt under the boats toilet fiberglass platform and hold it to
tighten a nut on the toilet base for mounting ? Any experience or
suggestions?

 

John

Arpeggio 

1984 CC 32

Norwalk CT

 


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Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

[John Russo]

Bob,

I have the identical boat same year etc. and have been reluctant to mount my
Nicro Vent in the window of the forward hatch in the V berth as I have been
told by some that the jib sheets get caught on it during a tack. Where is
yours mounted?

John Russo
Arpeggio
1984 CC 32
Norwalk, CT 

-Original Message- 
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Helen Abbott
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 9:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Nicro Vents

The Nicro Marine vent on my boat is identical to the one in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C5H2gacSLM

It appears to be an older model, obviously since it has been on the boat
since we bought it in 2006.  Unlike the newer ones, this one doesn't run
when the sun goes down.  Is that because it does not have a rechargeable
battery or is the battery to far along in its life to hold a charge?

Any idea what kind of a battery this model would take and where you you
obtain it?

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

[John Russo]

Thanks Chuck,

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 8:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

 

Hi John,
One of my new solar fans caught sheets.  
I fashioned small blocks that I epoxied in front of the fan and sheets now ride 
up and over the fan, no problem.  The blocks are about 45 degrees off either 
side of center line of the fan, and about 1 1/2 high and 2 wide and work 
great.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 12:36:45 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

Bob,

I have the identical boat same year etc. and have been reluctant to mount my
Nicro Vent in the window of the forward hatch in the V berth as I have been
told by some that the jib sheets get caught on it during a tack. Where is
yours mounted?

John Russo
Arpeggio
1984 CC 32
Norwalk, CT 

-Original Message- 
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Helen Abbott
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 9:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Nicro Vents

The Nicro Marine vent on my boat is identical to the one in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C5H2gacSLM

It appears to be an older model, obviously since it has been on the boat
since we bought it in 2006.  Unlike the newer ones, this one doesn't run
when the sun goes down.  Is that because it does not have a rechargeable
battery or is the battery to far along in its life to hold a charge?

Any idea what kind of a battery this model would take and where you you
obtain it?

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

[John Russo]

Thanks Chuck,

 

Are the blocks angled or wedged in cross section so the lines ride up over the 
blocks?

 

John

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 8:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

 

Hi John,
One of my new solar fans caught sheets.  
I fashioned small blocks that I epoxied in front of the fan and sheets now ride 
up and over the fan, no problem.  The blocks are about 45 degrees off either 
side of center line of the fan, and about 1 1/2 high and 2 wide and work 
great.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 12:36:45 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nicro Vents

Bob,

I have the identical boat same year etc. and have been reluctant to mount my
Nicro Vent in the window of the forward hatch in the V berth as I have been
told by some that the jib sheets get caught on it during a tack. Where is
yours mounted?

John Russo
Arpeggio
1984 CC 32
Norwalk, CT 

-Original Message- 
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Helen Abbott
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 9:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Nicro Vents

The Nicro Marine vent on my boat is identical to the one in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C5H2gacSLM

It appears to be an older model, obviously since it has been on the boat
since we bought it in 2006.  Unlike the newer ones, this one doesn't run
when the sun goes down.  Is that because it does not have a rechargeable
battery or is the battery to far along in its life to hold a charge?

Any idea what kind of a battery this model would take and where you you
obtain it?

Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Seeking Mooring/Slip between City Island and Point Judith

[John Russo]

Bob,

We keep our boat at Captain's Cove Seaport in Black Rock Harbor Bridgeport
CT. About midway between Stonington and City Island. Great place managed by
really good people with to two lifts, excellent mechanics and service and
winter storage on  site. Rates are reasonable and slips are available with
water and power or without on the Island slips, which has free launch
service. We have been there since 2005 and highly recommend it. Check out
the web site.
  
http://www.captainscoveseaport.com/

John Russo
CC 32
Arpeggio

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of b...@quickland.us
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Seeking Mooring/Slip between City Island and Point Judith

My partner, Beverly Genader, and I are new to your forum.  We are not new to
CCs, our current one being my fifth.  We hope to meet you at the Mystic
event. 

We are considering moving our boat from Lake Ontario to Long Island Sound.
Great sailing on the lake but with it being two feet lower than normal our
season is over. 

We are looking for a reasonably-priced mooring or slip between City Island
and Point Judith that would handle our 6.5 foot draft.  Probably closer to
Mystic since Beverly lives in Stonington and has sailed out of Mystic for a
number of years. 

We appreciate any suggestions. 


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Stus-List Starting problems

[John Russo]

I just developed  intermittent electrical starting problems on my 1984 CC
32 with a 2GMF engine. I assume it is either the starting push button switch
or the Solenoid and an off to the boat to investigate and hopefully confirm
prior to a one week cruise starting this weekend. The engine control panel
is a Type B and I was wondering if anyone knew the make and/ or part #'s of
a compatible push button switch and starting Solenoid. 

 

Thanks you in advance for any answers/suggestions.

 

John

Arpeggio

Norwalk,CT  

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