Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Station For Sale - Available at Richmond, VA "Frostfest" on Saturday February 2nd

[Mike Pappas]

Nice series of articles in QST Dino!

Mike Pappas
Pappas Consulting LLC
303-988-0976
advanceddigi...@mac.com



> On Jan 31, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Dino Papas  wrote:
> 
> I decided to thin the herd a bit and let go of my TR7 station and will have 
> it available at the Richmond, Virginia “Frostfest” coming up on February 2nd. 
>  A nice rig that has just become excess to my needs.
> 
> — TR-7 HF transceiver with AUX-7 board
> — Filters: 6 kHz AM/2.3 kHz SSB/1.8 kHz (SSB/data) and 300 Hz CW
> — Matching PS7 12VDC power supply
> — NB7 Noise Blanker option
> — MS7 Station Speaker
> — RV7 Remote VFO for split frequency operation
> — SP75 Speech Processor
> — P75 Phone Patch
> — Original manual and service manual
> — Extensive station info binder
> — PCB extender service boards
> 
> I will have a video available showing proper operation and output power at 
> the hamfest.
> 
> Prefer not to ship….asking $1150 for the set.
> 
> Hope to see you there!
> 
> 73 - Dino KL0S
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 57, Issue 5

[Mike Williams]

It's always a pleasure to hear a real radio pro analyze the problem!

Good DX....MikeW4DL


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Today's Topics:

1. Re: Drakelist Digest, Vol 57, Issue 4-A few thoughts on R-4C
   tubes and tube testing (Hugh Bahar)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2016 13:41:50 +
From: Hugh Bahar 
To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 57, Issue 4-A few
thoughts on R-4C tubes and tube testing
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All,

I sent my R-4C (S/N 26903, May 1977) to Rob Sherwood for alignment and 
installation of the 5 basic modifications on his website (filter cap kit, 
AMP-4, MIX-4, PD-4, R-4C power supply board).  Rob found that my R-4C had 
issues with the OEM stock first mixer and last IF tubes.  Attached are parts of 
the conversation, which has a few morsels of wisdom in it regarding the R-4C 
specifically, and receiver testing in general.

Best,
Hugh
WA2LXB
__

WA2LXB: Regarding the first mixer tube and the last IF tube, those are the kind 
of failures that I would not be able to diagnose at my shack due to lack of 
experience and lack of test gear.  For my education, would you mind briefly 
explaining how you diagnosed the two failed tubes?  I would assume that it was 
a several step process, starting with the most generic observations and then 
proceeding to instrumented testing...again starting generically and then moving 
to the details.

Rob's REPLY:  Your radio was pretty basic from that standpoint.  There are 
certain levels in dBm or microvolts that should make the S meter read certain 
values.  If the preselector peak is appropriately audible, but the S meter 
reading is low, then total gain is suspect.  In your case when I wiggled the 
first mixer tube, it made a lot of noise.  Replacing the tube brought the gain 
up to nominal.  The other issue was random crackling in the speaker, and at 
times moving the S meter off of S1.  Since the MIX-4 (Sherwood mod) had 
eliminated the tube before the last IF tube, I decided to replace the 6BA6.  
This got rid of the random crackling.   One can rarely detect a problem with an 
antenna connected since band noise is way above receiver noise.

I never use a tube tester (for the R-4C), as with all Drake products, the 
tester is worthless.  Drake uses very high grid resistor values, and any kind 
of grid leakage will seriously affect performance. Substitution is always 
needed, and hand selection, too.  NOS tubes are one's best bet, and for the 
6BA6 and 6BE6 I use the mil version 5749 and 5750.

To test any radio requires as a minimum a 100 MHz scope and a decent signal 
generator.  Of course any DVM is going to be adequate for most service issues.  I 
don't use C & R boxes, but I do have the best spectrum analyzers and signal 
generators beyond what would be generally needed for service.  All are HP and 
Tektronix.  Testing 100 dB radios really pushes the state-of-the-art.  When there 
are less obvious issues with the C-Line, I use a spectrum analyzer and an FET probe 
to follow the signal from antenna input clear to the input to the product detector. 
 Sometimes that is the only way to troubleshoot.

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2016 15:10:13 -0400
From: "Mark" 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 57, Issue 3
Hi Dan,

I reached the conclusion based on two factors.   The serial number of this
R-4C is 28188, which according to Ron's website (www.wb4hfn.com) put its
date of manufacture in November of 1977.   The GE tubes,  all the same, are
OEM marked, with the date code 7743, made the 43rd week of 1977.   All the
other tubes are Sylvania, but not these mixers!

73 de NO8J
-Original Message-
From: Drakelist [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of 
drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2016 12:00 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 57, Issue 3

Today's Topics:

1. 6EJ7 Mixers - Meshed Plates - Metal PTO Gears (Mark)
2. Re: 6EJ7 Mixers - Meshed Plates - Metal PTO Gears (Dan Martin)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2016 08:49:42 -0400
From: "Mark" 
To: 
Subject: [Dr

[Drakelist] SPR-4 Freq. Label Decals

[Mike March]

Looking for crystals for the SPR-4 and the decals for the dial.
Anything out there?

Thanks in advance.

73,  MIke  K4QU


-- 
Michael March, Adjunct
Lord Fairfax Comm. College
242 Clay Hill Dr.
Winchester, VA  22602
mikek...@gmail.com
540-662-4279 home
540-539-8500 cell
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 48, Issue 5

[Mike Williams]

I concur with Jim;  I had a similar issue with an R4C and it was the BFO 
transistor that had went out.  I replaced it with a standard 2NA.  
The 7 and 4 line are different creatures, you might get lucky as Jim 
outlined and just be able to reseat the boards and bring it back to life.


Good DX!

Mike  W4DL  EL96wf




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Today's Topics:

1. Re: Drakelist Digest, Vol 48, Issue 4 (captainpap...@att.net)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2015 00:01:11 + (UTC)
From: "captainpap...@att.net" 
To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 48, Issue 4
Message-ID:
<1601839055.1686710.1442102471749.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

thanks to the group,? for the replys, Jim NU0C moving the boards did the 
trick,? thanks to all 73 Dana KC9WKP ps really made my day ! thx

   From: "drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net" 
  To: 
drakelist@zerobeat.net?
  Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:00 AM
  Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 48, Issue 4

Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to

??? drakelist@zerobeat.net

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Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: Tr7. Audio (Jim Shorney)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2015 18:21:28 -0500
From: "Jim Shorney" 
To: "Drske List" 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Tr7. Audio
Message-ID: <20150911232135.874d4280...@mail02.inebraska.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

On Fri, 11 Sep 2015 09:55:25 -0500, DW. Anderson wrote:


Greetings to the group, thanks to you fixed last issue with the tr7, have new 
issue , when I tune the radio in am, go to switch to CW, rtty, ssb lose audio , 
meter is showing signals coming in and in transmit showing power out, but to 
audio, any thoughts ?

Sounds like you are losing the BFO. Since it affects both CW and SSB I would
suspect the signal path between pin 40 of the PBT/Ref board and pin 40 of the
2nd IF/Audio board. Probably one of those pesky Molex connectors. Often just
pulling the board up and re-seating will clear problems like this, but a little
dab of DeOxit on all the pins wouldn't hurt. Don't spray, it will go everywhere
that you don't want it.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
?There?s something out of place ? let?s go and poke it with a stick.? ? The Doctor, 
"Amy?s Choice"





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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 47, Issue 1

[Mike Williams]

I ad a similar problem with a TR7.  It was a defective 25 volt regulator 
on the PS board.


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Today's Topics:

1. R7 Tuning Instability (Arthur Delibert)
2. Re: R7 Tuning Instability (Gary Poland)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 17:49:42 -0400
From: Arthur Delibert 
To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
Subject: [Drakelist] R7 Tuning Instability
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I have a Drake R7 that sometimes displays an instability on the higher 
frequency bands when I first turn it on.  On the 21 and 28 MHz bands the 
frequency reads as 16xxx kHz or 32xxx kHz, and continually increases, as if the 
radio is slowly counting something.  The lower frequency ranges act normally.  
The same thing happens on the Aux7 frequencies that use 21 MHz band selector 
setting.

The problem continues for about 5 minutes, and then the radio settles down and 
acts normally on all bands.

I've tried cleaning the switch contacts on both the band selector switch and 
the Aux Program switch, but that didn't seem to make any difference.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Art Delibert
KB3FJO

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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2015 19:19:49 -0400
From: "Gary Poland" 
To: "Arthur Delibert" ,  
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R7 Tuning Instability
Message-ID: <9969F516F90B42699894D368F559686C@Inspiron580>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Arthur,
   Check the 25 volt DC input from the power supply board to the VCO. If that 
voltage is low the VCO doesn?t have the range it needs to tune the 10 and 15 
meter bands. If your power supply board is the older type with the dc to dc 
converter, check the core on the transformer to make sure it hasn?t slipped out 
of position. The voltage should be between 23 and 24 volts if I remember right.

73, Gary
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[Drakelist] Complete Drake station for sale

[Mike Pappas]

Hi Folks,

I have a complete Drake station for sale.

R4B
T4XC
MS-4
L4B (w/L-4PS)
MN-2000
W4

All in excellent condition (non-smoking environment).

First person with a $1.2K in cash and able to pick it up in Parker Colorado 
gets it all.  No Shipping, No Scams, No Kids, LIDS or School Bus Riders.

Mike Pappas
W9CN
Pappas Consulting LLC
advanceddigi...@mac.com <mailto:advanceddigi...@mac.com>






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[Drakelist] For Sale: R-4C Receiver

[Mike March]

Nice R-4C Receiver for sale.
$400.00 plus shipping.
Pictures on Photobucket
http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/k4qu/library/Drake%20R-4C%20for%20sale?sort=3&page=1

73,   Mike  K4QU


-- 
Michael March, Adjunct
Lord Fairfax Comm. College
242 Clay Hill Dr.
Winchester, VA  22602
mikek...@gmail.com
540-662-4279 home
540-539-8500 cell
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 34, Issue 8

[Mike Williams]

The TR7/PS7 has been sold; thanks to all for the inquiries.

73 de W4DL   Mike



On 6/28/2014 12:00 PM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

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Today's Topics:

1. TR7 & PS7 (Mike Williams)
2. PS-7 for parts (Bruce Felder)
3. Re: Microphone wiring question (Richard Knoppow)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 13:15:36 -0400
From: Mike Williams 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR7 & PS7
Message-ID: <53ada6b8@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I have an extra TR7 PS7 combo I would like to sell.  Both units function
fine.  Prefer pickup but will ship; $300.00 (plus shipping from
Tallahassee, FL.)

Good DX,

W4DL  Mike



--

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 12:29:04 -0500
From: Bruce Felder 
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] PS-7 for parts
Message-ID: <73a619aa-b9cb-4bfc-81f1-9a931225f...@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi Group:

I have a non-functioning but cosmetically very nice PS-7 for parts or as a 
repair project.

$50 + actual cost to ship.

Dr. Bruce Felder, K3BF
Pensacola, FL


--

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 19:10:18 -0700
From: "Richard Knoppow" <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>
To: 
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Microphone wiring question
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

  There is a data sheet with wiring diagram at:

<http://cdn.shure.com/user_guide/upload/381/us_pro_404c_ug_27a179_ja_.pdf>


--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com


- Original Message -
From: 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:50 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] Microphone wiring question



I have used a Shure 404C microphone on my TR-4 for many
years. Recently it
quit on me. I discovered that the wires had finally broken
at  the plug
end. So, my problem is that I am not sure which wire from
the mike goes  to
which connection at the plug.  There is a red wire, a
white wire (which
appears to be shielded), and a black wire coming from the
mike.
The 1/4" plug has 3 screw connections. The first appears
to connect to
the body of the plug which has the threaded portion. The
2nd and 3rd go to
the
interior of the plug.
Any ideas?
Thanks again. I am hoping that  you guys will do  just 1/2
as good a job as
you did with my audio hum a few weeks  back.
Howard - N0KOE




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[Drakelist] TR7 & PS7

[Mike Williams]

I have an extra TR7 PS7 combo I would like to sell.  Both units function 
fine.  Prefer pickup but will ship; $300.00 (plus shipping from 
Tallahassee, FL.)


Good DX,

W4DL  Mike

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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 33, Issue 7

[Mike Williams]

Hello Howard,

I reworked an AC-4 with the Heathkit shop kit a couple of years ago.  It 
worked just fine and took me about 3 hours or so to complete taking my 
time.  The Hayseed kit may be easier since they use elecrolytic cans  
with new caps inside so they are probably a unit for unit replacement I 
believe.  I don't know for sure since I have not used the latter.  In 
either case, a rebuild will probably save you a bunch of headaches 
especially if you were to lose the grid bias supply for your finals!


73 & DX,

W4DLMike
Tallahassee & Pompano Beach, FL USA





On 5/30/2014 12:00 PM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

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Today's Topics:

1. TR-4 Audio Hum Question (choward...@aol.com)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 May 2014 21:36:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: choward...@aol.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 Audio Hum Question
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Thanks to Gary and John for their response to my  audio  hum question. I
plan to accomplish the easy one first; cleaning the pins on the  AC-4 power
plug.
If that does not work, I will go to #2: re-cap the power  supply.  In fact,
I may that in any case. But, I would like some advice. I  am 74 years old
and the only real electronic work I have done was to build a  Viking
Adventurer transmitter when I was 14.  It worked the first  time.
I have found 2 different products for the AC-4.
The first is from "Hayseed Hamfest". It is a kit that replaces  all five
electrolytic capacitors with new ones. It is $72.00.
The second is from "The Heathkit Shop".  The Drake  AC-4R kit includes a
new PCB that replaces the old Caps and diodes.  Only  the transformer and the
bias adjusting pot from the old power supply are used.  It also requires a
voltmeter capable of 1000 volts to be used in the testing.
My question is to anyone who has knowledge of these products  and which
they recommend for someone with limited electronic skills.
As usual, Thanks for any help you folks can provide. You have  helped in a
couple of previous situations, which turned out just as you  suggested.
Howard - N0KOE
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[Drakelist] Drake reproduction front panels

[Mike Zak]

Oops, sorry, the pairs I have are for the T-4XB and R-4XB, not the T-4XB and 
R-4C.

Mike, W1MU



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[Drakelist] Front panel reproductions (KF8MW)

[Mike Zak]

I have several of KF8MW's reproduction front panels that I had accumulated in 
anticipation of some projects that I'm not going to pursue.  I have two sets of 
panels for the R-4B and T-4XC (a total of four panels) and I have one each for 
the TR-4Cw/RIT and R-4C.  I'd like to sell all six panels as a single lot.  
Asking price is $250, shipped by Priority Mail.  In the end, if I cannot find a 
buyer for the whole lot, I may end up piecing them out 1-2 at a time but for 
now I'm not going to do that so would appreciate it if you don't ask.  Please

Thanks,
Mike, W1MU

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R4B calibrator

[Mike Bryce]

Eagle PCB Cad will kick some butt, but it’s a steep learning curve

Free, for the trial version with no restrictions other than no pcb bigger than 
3 x 4 inches

I would never use software that locks into one company, ties all your work to 
them.


Mike Bryce WB8VGE

proso...@sssnet.com



On Jan 23, 2014, at 9:31 AM, cnixon  wrote:

> THe only "problem" with the captive freeware from the places like Express is 
> that you cannot do anything else with the result.  Not even print out the 
> board layouts--only send them in to have them made.
> 
> There are several free packages...some good, others not so much, that do the 
> same and are under the GNU free software environmnet.
> 
> I have used freePCB and the free version of viewmate from Pentalogix to 
> generate standard gerber or plotting files for small boards--multi-layer are 
> ok as well.  Learning the full automated process from schematic capture thru 
> net list, etc to final art is an interesting passtime.  Starting with a fully 
> documented schematic with bill of material makes the capture process work 
> very well--but it is sometimes contrary to the way us older guys develop 
> stuff!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Curt
> KU8L
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 1/23/2014 7:27 AM, Rick Lutzinger wrote:
>> 
>> Have you looked at ExpressPCB/ExpressSCH?  Great for what you are describing 
>> and the software is free.
>> 
>> Rick  KD6ZR
>> 
>> 
>> On 1/22/2014 8:42 PM, Doug Smith wrote:
>>> Thanks Mike.  Good info.
>>> 
>>> I took a look at circad — whew!  Pricey..  I’ve got a couple of projects 
>>> that I’ve been wanting to have a board or two made up but not at that level 
>>> of professionalism!
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Doug, W7KF
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jan 20, 2014, at 10:04 PM, Mike Bryce  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Gang
>>>> 
>>>> The purple pcbs are made by a company called osh park. 
>>>> 
>>>> He ( they) have a thing for purple. Even the mailing envelopes are purple. 
>>>> 
>>>> All the prototypes are purple. Go figure. 
>>>> 
>>>> I use circad for the pcb layout software. I am currently teaching myself 
>>>> eagle. That's been slow. 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Mike wb8vge
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> 
>>>> Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a 
>>>> fruit salad.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R4B calibrator

[Mike Bryce]

Gang

The purple pcbs are made by a company called osh park. 

He ( they) have a thing for purple. Even the mailing envelopes are purple. 

All the prototypes are purple. Go figure. 

I use circad for the pcb layout software. I am currently teaching myself eagle. 
That's been slow. 


Mike wb8vge

Sent from my iPad

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit 
salad.
 

> On Jan 20, 2014, at 11:52 PM, Doug Smith  wrote:
> 
> Found myself wondering the same thing.  Where do you get your boards made?  
> And, what software do you use to lay them out?  I ask because I have two of 
> the AC-4r kits and greatly admired the boards.
> 
> 73,
> Doug, W7KF
> http://www.w7kf.com
> 
> 
>> On Jan 20, 2014, at 9:36 PM, Jim Shorney  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> It's PURPLE! Now I want to go find an R4B just so I can buy one.
>> 
>> Where do you get purple boards made, Mike?
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> -Jim
>> NU0C
>> 
> 
> 
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[Drakelist] Drake R4B calibrator

[Mike Bryce]

Boys and girls…

I’ve been working on a replacement calibrator for the drake R4b. This 
calibrator will output 100, 50, and 25 kHz signals. You select the output with 
a dip jumper. The output also pulses on and off, and again, you can turn that 
off if you don’t want it.

it has the same footprint as the original, and all wiring plugs into it with a 
MTA.100 header and plug.

This project is about done. I’m in the process of having a small run of pcbs 
made.

here is a link to some photos and ‘scope traces of its output


http://theheathkitshop.com/downloads/Drake%20R4b%20calibrator/

Mike, wb8vge




Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o 

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is never 
sure. 



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[Drakelist] Drake R4B calibrator

[Mike Bryce]

Gang,


We all know that the RTL parts used in the calibrator are no longer being made. 
So, if your calibrator in your R4B goes kaput, then you're screwed.

This year at the dayton hamvention I talked to Ron, WB4HFN, about the problem 
and he sent me a broken calibrator board. I needed the dimensions.

So, after lots of paper and a few broken pencils, a prototype pcb has been 
made. Actually, three here made.


Same foot print as the original. You have your choice of either 100, 50, or 25 
kHZ markers. The marker pulses so you can find it on a crowed band so you're 
adjusting the dial to the marker instead of a SW broadcast.

The pcb will have .100 MTA plug assembly that plugs into the board. It supplies 
the board with the necessary voltages, ground and output. There is no 
modification required to the radio, the front panel control will work just as 
before.

A 3.2mHZ crystal is oscillated and divided by a 7 bit ripple counter. You can 
net the crystal freq with a trimmer on the pcb.

There is an on-board regulator to keep the oscillator stable and an adjustment 
to control the speed of the pulses.

This is a prototype board. The next run will have some corrections made and I 
am going to put in a jumper to select either a pulse output or no pulse 
(steady) output.

The board is a hybrid. It has both through hole and surface mount components.

The final cost of the pcb has yet to be determined. I don't know if I will 
offer it as a kit or fully assembled The surface mount parts are not the ones 
that look like paint dots, but
 they are small.

If anyone is interested in the remaining two prototypes let me know and I'll 
assemble and test them. 

Right now, I don't have an R4B to install one, so will be looking for someone 
that can write up the procedure on how to install the new calibrator.

Mike, WB8VGE

Mike Bryce, WB8VGE
 the heathkit shop
SunLight energy systems
J e e p
o|||o






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[Drakelist] need w4 wattmenter meter

[Mike Bryce]

well I had a bad night.

I got this broke W4 from ebay. the pickup sensor was messed up. got that fixed. 
Set the calibration trimmers and the thing worked like a charm.

except

I couldn't set the needle to zero. the setting screw moved the needle, but not 
to zero. So I decided to fix it.

Oh, bad idea!

I managed to destroy the meter, pushed the bearings right out of the coil

So, that's my sad story.

Anyone have a spare meter they'd sell me?

COuld be one from the tuner, console as they all used the 200 uA meter

mike, wb8vge

   
Mike Bryce
proso...@sssnet.com



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[Drakelist] C Line

[Mike Williams]

Thanks for all the responses to the ad for the c line I have;  it was spoken 
for very early on...


73 de W4DL   Mike___
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[Drakelist] 4C Line for sale

[Mike Williams]

T4XC and R4C for sale;  I'm the second owner of the pair originally purchased 
from Henry radio.  I have all the original receipts and manuals.  R4C is fully 
crystalled for general coverage with Sherwood power supply and audio output 
board mods.  Cosmetically very good from a non smoking environment.  AC4 had 
the Heathkit shop kit installed 2 years ago.  Comes with a D104 if you want it 
and MS4 and dust covers for the radios.  All works fine;  Original interconnect 
cable and extra sticker tabs sheets.  Call if interested; hate to let these go 
but I'm radio overloaded.  I'm currently in Tallahassee, FL although I do 
travel down to south FL periodically.  E-mail if you are interested.



73 de W4DL   Mike w...@arrl.net___
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Re: [Drakelist] AC4 Upgrade Kits

[Mike Bryce]

Ron and all

I have ordered in more pcbs for the AC4R kits. 

They should be here within two weeks give or take a few days. 

A large supply of parts have also been ordered. 

Contact me off of the list if you'd like one. 

DO NOT call Ron! He won't be able to help you. 

Mike wb8vge

The heathkit Shop

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 7, 2013, at 10:41 AM, "Ron Baker"  wrote:

> 
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Re: [Drakelist] The Heathkit Shop

[Mike Bryce]

Boys 

I'm alive and kicking. Will have the shop back up and running. Right now, I'm 
trying to catch my breath, and build up stock to shorten shipping times

mike

wb8vge

the heathkitshop


On Feb 17, 2013, at 9:47 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:

> I emailed him about 2 weeks ago asking if his AC-4 rebuild
> kit was going to be available again any time soon, and so
> far have received no answer.
> 
> I hope he is OK...
> 
> 73
> K1NR 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 18:16:40 +0100
> "Bob DeHaney"  wrote:
>> Seems to be closed indefinitely...
>> 
>> Vy 73, Bob DJ0RD/WU5T
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 06:46:22 -0500
>> From: "Robert Look" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: [Drakelist] Amp Keyer Interface
>> Message-ID:
>> <5B5890311E7D4F259883D128C58BDE8C@winpro757b2579>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> I thought I would pass this along to the list:
>> 
>> I recently bought Mike's WB8VGE (Heathkit Shop) AmpKeyer
>> and used it to
>> interface my L4B with my 2NT.  I use a Y-cable attached
>> to the VFO Key port
>> on the back of the 2NT. The one side goes directly to the
>> HA5 VFO and the
>> other goes to the AmpKeyer. The AmpKeyer in turn connects
>> to the L4B.  
>> 
>> It's a great product, easy to use, well made, and costs
>> about the same as a
>> tank of gas.  
>> 
>> Bob W8JHA
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> 
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>> fd/attachment-0001.html>
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 56, Issue 13
>> *
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Drakelist] The Heathkit Shop

[Mike Bryce]

I can tell you that's simply not true!


Mike, wb8vge


On Feb 17, 2013, at 12:16 PM, Bob DeHaney wrote:

> Seems to be closed indefinitely...
> 
> Vy 73, Bob DJ0RD/WU5T
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 06:46:22 -0500
> From: "Robert Look" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Amp Keyer Interface
> Message-ID: <5B5890311E7D4F259883D128C58BDE8C@winpro757b2579>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I thought I would pass this along to the list:
> 
> I recently bought Mike's WB8VGE (Heathkit Shop) AmpKeyer and used it to
> interface my L4B with my 2NT.  I use a Y-cable attached to the VFO Key port
> on the back of the 2NT. The one side goes directly to the HA5 VFO and the
> other goes to the AmpKeyer. The AmpKeyer in turn connects to the L4B.  
> 
> It's a great product, easy to use, well made, and costs about the same as a
> tank of gas.  
> 
> Bob W8JHA
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20130217/940709
> fd/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
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> 
> End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 56, Issue 13
> *
> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] DRAKE C Line + Ten Tec Titan 425 Amp.

[Mike Bryce]

That's true...

if you were to connect the drake transceiver to a drake amplifier life would be 
good. Birds would sing, the sun would shine. Life is good.

But there is no standard as to how much, what flavor, or how much voltage or 
even if it should be positive or negative going  on ALC.

The ALC generated by an amplifier may as well be in Vulcan if the transceiver 
can't understand what to do with it. And while the engineers who included knew 
of its value, no one sat them down and decided on a standard.

bottom line?

Don't worry about the ALC

mike, wb8vge


On Feb 12, 2013, at 1:05 AM, Jim Shorney wrote:

> On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:08:45 -0500, Robert Henry wrote:
> 
>> Hi,  Do not use ALC,  73
> 
> 
> Why not? There are good technical reasons to use it, and the engineers who
> incuded it must have known them.
> 
> 73
> 
> -Jim
> NU0C
> 
> --
> 
> "I aim to misbehave." - Captain Malcolm Reynolds, "Serenity"
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Load Bank

[Mike Bryce]

There wouldn't be much too it.

all you need would be a hand full of resistors, using ohm's law to calculate 
the values. The values would be calculated at the max current the TRx series 
would draw. 

On would need to load the 6.3 v filament down to the same current as the tubes, 
if you don't the unloaded transformer would produce more voltage than normal 
since it's not powering the tubes.

a couple of cheap LED digital panel mount meter could be used to monitor the 
voltages, plate, screen, and bias

likewise a meter could be used to monitor current on the plate supply. I don't 
feel it would be necessary to monitor bias current or screen voltage current 
either.

it would be an interesting project, that would make checking the supply quick. 
A few test points for an 'oscope to monitor ripple would be icing on the cake

later

mike, wb8vge





On Nov 27, 2012, at 10:21 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote:

> I would be very interested in seeing the schematic..
> 
> 73 
> 
> Gene K1NR
> 
> PS I would not mind having one to check my Collins supply
> either : - )
> 
> 
> On Mon, 26 Nov 2012 11:50:11 -0500
> Al Parker  wrote:
>> hi folks,
>>  Some yrs ago there was an article on building a test
>> setup for Collins p.s.'s.  I think it was in one of the
>> Collins collector magazines, I can search it out.  I came
>> into possession of one of the units, and have made cable
>> adapters for the AC-3/4's, and I think the HP-23's also.
>> It is for voltage only, and did not include a load test,
>> but I have been thinking of adding that to mine.
>> 73,
>> 
>> Al, W8UT
>> www.boatanchors.org
>> www.hammarlund.info
>> 
>> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
>> worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
>> Ratty, to Mole
>> 
>> On 11/26/2012 11:30 AM, Hudson, John@CalEMA wrote:
>>> That would be a useful test jig.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> John N. Hudson III, Communications  Coordinator
>>> 4050 Taylor St, MS 243
>>> San Diego, CA 92110
>>> 6192509063 Cell
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Nov 24, 2012, at 1:37 PM, "Eugene Balinski"
>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> All,
>>>> 
>>>>   Just wondering if anyone has put together an AC-4
>> load
>>>> or test bank ?  If so, could you share the plans ?
>>>> 
>>>> I would like something that would allow one to connect
>> the
>>>> AC-4. switch on the AC, and measure the various
>> voltage
>>>> levels on test point, and perhaps even load the
>> supply.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>> 
>>>> 73  Gene K1NR
> 
> -
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] Hum in audio

[Mike Williams]

Carey,

I had the same issue with my T4X; it turned out to be the AC-4.  As 
Richard mentioned, use a scope or have a ham with a spectrum scope watch 
your signal on key down.  I installed the Heathkit shop PS kit since it 
was long overdue anyway.


73,  Mike   W4DL

On 8/12/2012 12:00 PM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. hum in audio (Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT)
2. Re: hum in audio (Richard Knoppow)
3. TR4C Project unit for Sale (Pinholster Chris)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 11:43:35 -0500
From: "Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT"
To:
Subject: [Drakelist] hum in audio
Message-ID:<6D2942AC77AE492DA2CE6D7BE329BAD5@careyflex>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello All

I have developed a hum in the audio of my t4x. on am it completely wipes out 
the audio and pushes the output up. on ssb it is there but not near as bad. you 
can actully understand the audio. i have checked power supply voltages and all 
is well. before i started poking and hacking i figured it was best to seek your 
opinions.

Carey
-- next part --
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--

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:00:27 -0700
From: "Richard Knoppow"<1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT",

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] hum in audio
Message-ID:<4962B628DC544DCC8F1AFF5FE836287D@VALUED20606295>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original


- Original Message -
From: "Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT"
To:
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 9:43 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] hum in audio


Hello All

I have developed a hum in the audio of my t4x. on am it
completely wipes out the audio and pushes the output up. on
ssb it is there but not near as bad. you can actully
understand the audio. i have checked power supply voltages
and all is well. before i started poking and hacking i
figured it was best to seek your opinions.

Carey
 Make sure this is not power supply hum by checking the
supply with an AC meter or scope. There should be little
ripple. However, I suspect that you have an audio hum due to
a loose ground.  The hum will be worse in AM because in AM
mode the side-band filters are bypassed. The audio goes to
the modulator which connects directly to the output tubes so
there is much more low end.  If the hum is from the audio
stage there should be none in CW.  Begin with the microphone
and its cable and connector and if not there with the
connector in the transmitter.  One standard bit of voodoo in
much old equipment is to go through and work and tighten all
the screws.  Very often ground connections are made through
them and they become slightly corroded in the same way as
the contacts on switches do. Working them will clean the
connection and often get rid of pernicious problems.




--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com




--

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 08:43:21 -0400
From: Pinholster Chris
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR4C Project unit for Sale
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII


To those interested in a TR4C project.

I powered up this TR4C today using one of my AC4 power supplies. All the tubes including 
the finals appeared to light up. I got sound but from the headphone jack. I wouldn't 
attempt to try the transmitter except on a modified heathkit AC4., which I do not have. I 
consider the unit as "lights up but non working".
The outside cabinet looks like it was repainted. There are decals on the 
various jacks and side controls. The inside I would consider rough and dirty. I 
think the unit could be refurbed. It might be a nice project.

I am attaching a website with some pictures I took with my iphone . The serial 
number is visible in the rear photo.

I am pricing this at $150 as is, plus actual fedex shipping cost to your 
location.
I am in Belleair Beach Fl 33786. If you have any questions you can call me at 
727 409-9492

Chris Pinholster   K4WIN


http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/Lgk1ewt4/1/5706677



--

___

[Drakelist] TR-4 case?

[Mike Millen]

Gentlemen...

Is anybody in the UK breaking a TR-4?  (or maybe a TR-3)

I'm in need of a case, top & bottom halves.

Condition is not important.

Thanks,
Mike
M0MLM
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[Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Mike Williams]

While troubleshooting a VCO power supply problem,  R2103, the 1K pot on the PS 
board fell off!  Just what I needed while trying to get this radio going again. 
 I know this is an old topic, but does anyone know where to find a replacement 
that will fit on the board, or perhaps someone has one they will part with.  
Any assistance  is certainly appreciated.  

PS:  the +25 Vdc rail for the vco is reading 17 volts so I suspect the problem 
is with the  PS board or something loading down the rail.

Thanks for any assistance,

Mike  W4DL___
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[Drakelist] TR-7 vco unlocks

[Mike Williams]

I've encountered a new issue with my TR-7.  On 20 meters only,  as I turn the 
PTO and reach 14.250, the vco seems to unlock as the DR-7 display stops 
increasing in frequency and reverses or drifts down 20 or 30 kHz.  Below 14.250 
all works normally.  I pulled the vco board and reseated it and thought I had 
it, until the radio warmed up 10 minutes and then the same thing happened.  I 
had the radio parked on 14.350 and it started to drift again after a short warm 
up period.  Could be a soft bit in a counter perhaps due to one of the ECL 
chips. I have had trouble with these in the past.  Any suggestions would be 
helpful;  PS where exactly is the test point on the vco board?

Thanks,

Mike W4DL___
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[Drakelist] Dayton 2012 Drake Forum Prize Winner

[Mike Williams]

To all of you smart alec's who laughed at my winning of the fruit cake at the 
forum this year, yelling "regift" and other assorted comments,  I'll have you 
know I hauled that brick back to Florida and my 91 year old mother in law loves 
it!  She was a TTY operator in the second world war and enjoys my qsl cards 
from around the globe , all the while dining on the Dayton Drake Forum fruit 
cake prize!   Thanks to Bob, W4WTO, for the splendid donation!

73 and good DX,

Mike   W4DL
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 46, Issue 2

[Mike Williams]

Good one!


- Original Message - 
From: 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 10:47 PM
Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 46, Issue 2



Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. SPAMCANNIBAL (Garey Barrell)
  2. SPAMCANNIBAL (Garey Barrell)
  3. T-4XC T/R relay (Paul)
  4. Re: T-4XC T/R relay (Steve Wedge)
  5. Re: T-4XC T/R relay (Al Parker)
  6. Re: T-4XC T/R relay (Garey Barrell)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 12:00:11 -0400
From: Garey Barrell 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] SPAMCANNIBAL
Message-ID: <4f787b8b.2060...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Is anyone else having problems with Drakelist?  Or more accurately 
SPAMCANNIBAL.


The message I just posted had to be sent three times before it went 
through.


Perhaps this is why there is so little activity on Drakelist.

DrakeRadio is looking more and more attractive.

--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs





--

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 14:12:12 -0400
From: Garey Barrell 
To: drakelist 
Subject: [Drakelist] SPAMCANNIBAL
Message-ID: <4f789a7c.40...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


Thanks for the replies.  This seems to be some sort of SPAM trap on one of 
the links between me and
the Drakelist server.  I have NO spam controls via my provider, other than 
their standard stuff,
which seems to work quite well.  Once every two-three weeks I'll get a 
message from them with a
message that they believe 'could' be spam, but so far they've all been 
spam!  Between that and the
JUNK system on SeaMonkey which has been 'trained' over the last year or 
so, I rarely see more than
3-5 spam messages a week.  So far the JUNK system has NOT trapped anything 
that was NOT spam.


That's all great for incoming, but this SPAMCANNIBAL crap only shows up 
'sometimes' between me and
Drakelist.  I have to send something 3-4 times before it finally goes 
through, and I guess that
message has just taken an alternate path to the one SC is on.  Other 
times, stuff just sails

through.  But the frequency has taken a nasty turn the month or so.

For whatever reason, this is ONLY a problem with Drakelist.

--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs





--

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 17:18:22 -0400
From: Paul 
To: "drakel...@.zerobeat.net" 
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay
Message-ID: <4f78c61e.7090...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I recently acquired a " parts unit" T4XClooks to good to be a
parts rig so I am going to make an attempt at saving it.
Somewhere along the line someone hijacked the T/R relay.
Is the relay for a TR7 the same relay,or is it a different part number?
I have one in the junkbox,but want to make certain before I plug it in &
possibly smoke something in the T4XC by putting in wrong relay

Thanks
Paul



--

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 19:27:10 -0400
From: "Steve Wedge" 
To: "Paul" , "drakel...@.zerobeat.net"

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay
Message-ID: <8EDDEDA593D449428D5630882DE48F96@Shack7>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response

Paul -

I don't think they're interchangeable, but I'm somewhat surprised that I
can't find any information about the relay in either the T-4X manual or
Garey's CD.  I might just be tired.

The coil of that relay goes from the +250V supply to plate of the VOX
control tube V10.  It may need to drop a fair amount of voltage across 
that
coil.  I've also heard of some folks modifying the circuit so that they 
can

use a relay with a lower-voltage coil.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended
thereto.


--
From: "Paul" 
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 5:18 PM
To: "drakel...@.zerobeat.net" 
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC T/R relay


I recently acquired a " parts unit" T4XClooks to good to be a
parts rig so I am going to make an attempt at saving it.
Somewhere along the line someone hijacked the T/R relay.
Is the relay for a TR7 the same relay,or is it a different part number?
I have one in the junkbox,bu

Re: [Drakelist] AC-3 Ver AC-4

[Mike Bryce]

john,

divide and conquer!

First thing to do is disconnect the secondary from the transformer to the pcb.

Unsolder the wires from the 'red' wires from the transformer to the diodes. 
then, the 'yellow' wire that goes to the diodes. Finally,  disconnect the blue 
wire that go from the transformer to D7

this separates the transformer from the pcb assemble. 

Now, check to make sure you don't have one of the loose wire contacting the 
chassis and when you're happy, plug in the supply and turn it on. (via shorting 
pins 1 and 2 together)

if the fuse holds, then power down and then re-connect just one of the of the 
sections at a time. If you find that when you, let's say the yellow wires, blow 
the fuse, then you have a wiring problem on the output side, most likely a 
short 


if the fuse blows with the secondaries removed from the pcb, then you have a 
short someplace in the wiring that you did when connecting the wires from the 
transformer to the pcb

this should help you,

mike, wb8vge


On Mar 11, 2012, at 11:36 AM, John Gartman wrote:

> Well I installed a heath kit in my AC-4 and all mine does is blow the fuse 
> when the jumper is between pins 1 and 2. I have gone over it many times.
> Wire for wire reds to reds yellows to yellows blues to blues etc. but it 
> blows the 5 amp and a 6.5 amp slow blow and it blows that also.
> What I don't know is what capacitors to leave on the bottom there are 2 that 
> go to ground. One from the fuse holder and one from L2 Are these needed?
> I did not assemble the new circuit board I bought it assembled. I know it is 
> hard to guess without seeing and who knows what kind of goof ups a yahoo makes
> in wiring but anyone have an idea on where to look next ?  It did not blow 
> the fuse before the board was installed.
>  
> Thanks
>  
> John AG6GL
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B Audio Distortion

[Mike Bryce]

I wonder.

when drake assembled the radios, did they go through three or fours tubes per 
radio to get one that worked correctly?

dosen't seem logical. And although you can't argue with the fact that the 
subing out the tube fixed the problem, I wonder if there is something hidden 
down someplace in the design that causes the problem

just a thought

Mike, wb8vge


On Mar 9, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Randy WB4SPB wrote:

> Altogether, I bought two 6EH5s and one 6CA5.  I already had a spare 6EH5, so, 
> considering those alone, I had to try three to get one.  If I count the 6CA5 
> that I bought, I had to try four to get one.
>  
> The 6CA5 IS very similar.  Some sources do not even have the 6EH5 and refer 
> you to 6CA5.  The tube that originally manifested the problem was a 6CA5 that 
> had been in the radio for many years before these symptoms appeared.
>  
> Whether the difference in 6EH5 and 6CA5 is important here, I cannot say.  
> I'll stick with 6EH5s in the future, while I can get them.  For sources I've 
> seen that have both, the price is the same.
>  
> 73,
>  
> Randy WB4SPB
>  
> - Original Message -
> From: Al Al
> 
> Out of curiosity, how many 6EH5 tubes did you have to go through to find a 
> good one? 
> 
> Al, n7ioh
> Payson, Arizona, USA
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b

[Mike Bryce]

Scratching head...

How can the chassis be electrically "HOT" if the chassis is tied to ground.

Either you've lost the ground connection via the power cord or your electrical 
supply i.e. the plug is not wired correctly

what ever you do... FIX that before someone gets seriously zapped

Mike, wb8vge


On Feb 20, 2012, at 9:40 PM, hs0zju wrote:

> 
> sent from galaxy tab 10.1
> 
> On Feb 21, 2012 8:23 AM, "funbiz"  wrote:
> The line voltgage here is 230volts and is stable when using my ameritron. I 
> just opened the ps to double check my work and it looks 100%   
> Unfortunately i discovered another problem.   The cabinet is hot (has 
> voltgage when touched).
> 
> sent from galaxy tab 10.1
> 
> ___

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Re: [Drakelist] Fans

[Mike Bryce]

Boys and girls...

I've got a new pcb that takes care of this problem. Here's how it works

While the circuit has been designed to use either the 6 or 12 v ac filament, 

 When you first turn your radio on, any of the Drake TR series or R series, the 
fan will come on to high speed. High speed fan is controlled by trimmer R11.

 The fan will run in high speed for about three seconds and then drop to low 
speed. That is adjusted by R12. 

you can set either the high speed or the low speed independently so you have 
enough voltage to get the fan running, then you slow it down as slow as you 
want it with just an adjustment of a trimmer.
 When you transmit, the external key line is pulled to ground and that forces 
the fan into high speed. This greatly increases the cooling of the PA tubes 
during tune up and long winded QSOs. When you go back to receive, the fan slows 
back down to the low setting.

 The entire pcb about 2 in square is mounted on a side of the pa compartment. 
There are no wires to cut or holes to drill. installation is completely 
reversible and operation completely transparent.


Mike WB8VGE
 

On Jan 8, 2012, at 10:11 PM, K9sqg wrote:

> Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220 v fan that will 
> start reliably and run consistently. Super quiet!
> 
> 73,
> 
> Evan, K9SQG
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Michael Kelly 
> To: drakelist 
> Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm
> Subject: [Drakelist] Fans
> 
> Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question  I wire two 110 
> vac 
> fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet they move 
> a 
> good deal of air.  
> 
> The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one in 
> the 
> front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a "circular" air flow  pattern 
> and 
> the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, (and 
> for 
> fun)  I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the one on 
> the 
> finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. 
> 
> To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a ball 
> about 
> half the size of a pea to serve as "feet" on each corner of the fan. It won't 
> stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary.  
> 
> So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both 
> 
> As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans in a 
> 3 
> way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on the slow 
> start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. 
> 
> Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the transceiver.  
> Cooler is better, eh?
> 
> Happy New Year everyone. 
> 
> Michael n4mak
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> //
> > 
> > At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:
> >> I've done all which-ways.
> >> 
> >> I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow 
> >> it down.
> >> I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 
> >> 12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point 
> >> where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a 
> >> hamfest.
> >> I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
> >> filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he 
> >> used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
> >> If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply 
> >> for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed 
> >> wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber 
> >> feet.  No holes get drilled that way...
> >> 
> >> YMMV,
> >> 
> >> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
> >> 
> >> Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
> >> John Stark.
> >> 
> >> All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
> >> thereto.
> >> 
> >> From: <mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.net>Michael & Sue Trussell
> >> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
> >> To: <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>drakelist@zerobeat.net
> >> Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?
> >> 
> >> I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
> >> know a few of you have used the twelve 12 vo

Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

[Mike Bryce]

or you could use one of my new fan controllers for the drake radios


mike


On Jan 8, 2012, at 7:45 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

> I've done all which-ways.
>  
> I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow it 
> down.
> I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 12V 
> wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point where 
> the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a hamfest.
> I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
> filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he used 
> are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
> If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply for 
> 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed wires 
> through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber feet.  
> No holes get drilled that way...
>  
> YMMV,
>  
> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
>  
> Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
> John Stark.
>  
> All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
> thereto.
> 
> From: Michael & Sue Trussell
> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?
> 
> I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I know a 
> few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 110 volt 
> version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I don’t have to 
> plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like the fan to come 
> on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any suggestions?
>  
> Thank you in advance
>  
> Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] what's with all the increased drakelist traffic

[Mike Bryce]

Too damn cold to work on the antenna.

Mike, wb8vge



On Jan 2, 2012, at 8:38 PM, Chuck Grandgent wrote:

> mind you I'm not complaining, but in the last couple days seems like the list 
> traffic has EXPLODED !
> 
>Chuck, K1OM
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Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

[Mike Bryce]

Well at least he didn't say it was almost mint. 


Mike wb8vge 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 21, 2011, at 7:46 AM, Steve Wedge  wrote:

> I'm going to nominate this as the most-abused, nastiest-looking piece of 
> Drake gear I've ever seen:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260919992177&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
> 
> I wouldn't even bet that the meter's working given how much moisture this one 
> has seen.
> 
> Enjoy those Drakes - but not underwater...
> 
> Steve, W1ES/4
> 
> ___
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> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 

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[Drakelist] drake sw8----died

[Mike Bryce]

Well gang, the subject title says it all

I haven't pulled this radio down for a year or so and it looks like it's kaput

I just don't have the time, don't have the manual and I know that drake just 
stopped servicing these

so, does anybody work on these?

Mike
wb8vge
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Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?

[Mike Bryce]

I use to keep the tube rigs warm and happy until

I got the electric bill

They are turned off now.


I'm not talking about one or two rigs either, there are dozens in the  
shack, and they hit the electric up to the point they had to go dark.



mike

Mike Bryce, WB8VGE
 the heathkit shop
SunLight energy systems
J e e p
o|||o


On Sep 10, 2011, at 9:54 AM, Garey Barrell wrote:


Don -

This definitely helps mitigate turn-on surge currents.  It's  
critical to get the 'right size', and to mount it away from other  
components, as they DO get hot in operation.  'OH NO, 'wasted' power!'


They also reduce the voltage applied to all components by a small  
amount, which doesn't hurt with today's considerably higher line  
voltages.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA


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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

[mike bryce]

Boys and girls,

this was a timely subject

I should have by the end of the month a few prototype pcbs for a fan controller 
for the drake radios. They will work with ANY TR series as well as any of the R 
series receivers

Without getting into too much details, the circuit is contained on a small 
double sided pcb. Two wires are required with a third one optional

power is stolen from the 6.3 v ac filament from the back of the dial light

here's how it works

when you turn your radio one, the fan will come up to full speed for three 
seconds then automatically drop down to a speed you set by a trimmer. The high 
to low speed is designed to give older fans or larger fans enough juice to 
start. After they get spinning, they drop to the other lower speed, again that 
one is adjustable, too.

if you use the third wire connection, it goes to the external amp key line and 
when you go to tune, or transmit, the fan will automatically go back to high 
speed, again you set how fast 'high' speed is

the pcb is about 2" square. will drive any 12 vdc fan up to 500 ma.

will work on any tube base radio be it a transmitter or receiver.

cost TBD, but about $25ish dollars

mike

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o 

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is never 
sure. 




On Aug 22, 2011, at 11:49 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:

> It's a VERY good idea to run fans on the tops of our tube Drakes.  Tubes are 
> getting higher and higher and harder to find.  A slow moving fan, sucking air 
> out of the cabinet will lower the temperature to cool to the touch, in my 
> experience!!  I put rubber feet on the fans or a piece of insulating foam 
> around the rim, and let them run.  Good 220v ones will run slowly on 110v, 
> and provide plenty of cooling.
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
>  
> ___
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[Drakelist] New to the list

[Mike M]

Hello -
I just bought a set of B-line equipment and I am eager to get it up and
running.  My elmers ran B or C line gear and I've always wanted to have a
set of my own.
As far as I can tell, both the T-4XB and the R-4B work fine.  I think the
transmitter is putting out about 40 watts on CW.  My first project is going
to be to install three conductor power cables on both the receiver and the
power supply.
I'm looking forward to learning more about these great radios on this list!

73,
Mike, AL7MM
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Re: [Drakelist] WB6KBL Richard, Vol 37, Issue 15

[Mike Williams]

I use a D-104 with my T4X, amp bypassed, and receive good audio reports; 
on other matters, Rich, WB6KBL's story regarding his new job and lady 
friend was superb.  I had a new job as the technical mgr. for a new 
cellular company in Rhode Island in 1985.  The vendor had just finished 
installing and optimizing our mobile telephone switching office and I 
was like a kid in a candy store with racks and racks of switching gear, 
microwave, alarm panels, channel banks, et al.  I took my then girl 
friend, (now XYL) on a tour and received pretty much the same result as 
Richard did.  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder like they say! (all 
those blinking LED's and meters were gorgeous).


Good DX..

Mike  W4DL
Pompano Beach, FL  USA


I'm glad it worked out:-)  When I started working for a
TV network I took my girl friend on a tour, I was very happy
to have gotten the job and wanted to show the place (and
myself off). After a few minutes of walking around she said
"All this stuff looks the same, lets go somewhere else".
Well, I took her up on a stage and we watched Sally
Struthers rehearsing something. I was about as deflated as a
child's baloon that has been run over by a steam roller.
I guess you can't win them all.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com  




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Re: [Drakelist] Ten-Tec and Drake Compared

[mike bryce]

I have a bit of issue with that...

with the exception of some solid state devices, RF transistors for the 444 amp 
comes to mind, I've never found ten tec did not stock a part, or had a working 
replacement for it for a radio I've have on my service bench. Sure, some parts 
or assemblies are long gone. I mean, when was the last time Drake sold a PTO 
for TR3?

granted, you can't get cosmetic parts like knobs or front panels, but you can't 
get those from drake either.

You can still get a PTO rebulid kit for a ten tec argonaut 505, built in 1973,

so, I'd say, ten tec has a pretty good supply of parts for older radios, and if 
you have the money, they will be more than happy to install, and bring to 
factory specs that 505. 
mike bryce
proso...@sssnet.com



On Jun 18, 2011, at 2:27 PM, rhule...@comcast.net wrote:

> I own and enjoy both.   Drake 4 line and 2B.  Ten-Tec 509, 540, 544, 545, 
> 546, 588.  All except last purchased used of course. Only ones needing work 
> were the Drakes and the newest Ten-Tec.  The 588 recently revisited the 
> factory for repair when 3 years old, of course Ten-Tec fixed it quickly but 
> repair cost more than paid for any of the other rigs listed.  I'm not capable 
> of repairing the 588.  If any of the old stuff breaks, I'd be forced to fix  
> myself because the shipping would cost more than the rig is worth.  One thing 
> about the older Ten-Tec rigs, many of the failure-prone parts are unobtanium. 
>   So far, the items that have failed on the Drakes have been easily replaced.
>  
>  
> ___
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Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared

[Mike Cizek]

That's not a rumor - it's fact.  
 
The MARS service provides for its members to get surplus equipment when
Uncle Sam decides he doesn't need it any more.  I never got any S Line
gear this way, but had a few R-390A receivers and some very good test
gear.   I know one fellow who received a complete KWM2A suitcase
station, and saw some 651S1 receivers given out.  
 
73,
 
Mike W3MC
NNN0RVG


  _  

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Friday, 17 June, 2011 05:24
To: k4...@mindspring.com; Tom Swisher
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared


A lot of the "rich folks" were more lucky folks from what I understand.
Apparently there was some benefits from being part of the MARS
organization at one point.  Rumor had it that it was free or drastically
reduced Collins equipment for being involved.

Anyone know anything about that rumor?

--- On Thu, 6/16/11, Tom Swisher  wrote:




From: Tom Swisher 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared
To: k4...@mindspring.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 8:59 PM


On Jun 16, 2011, at 6:13 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

> Essentially, Drake came along and found less expensive ways to emulate
the Collins equipment and circuitry to make it more affordable for the
'average' ham.  Drake was just the reverse of Collins, i.e., the
majority of their business was with hams, with a small (if any?)
government segment.  Heath did somewhat the same, although they went a
little too far, in my opinion, and ended up with a product that felt
'cheap' and flimsy, compared even to the Drake.  Drake was not fancy,
but WAS and IS solid in construction.

Well put, Garey. I've personally always considered Collins the gear for
the "rich man" while Drake was the gear for "everyman."



Tom
--
Tom Swisher, WA8PYR

"A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate
their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from
the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good
government." - Thomas Jefferson


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Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared

[Mike Cizek]

My first good radio was a B Line, which I used for 4 or 5 years, then
upgraded to a C Line.  I had a few C Lines over the next 10-15 years
with all the Sherwood mods & filters, and used them to get on the DXCC
Honor Roll.  I had a couple of S Lines over the years, and still have
one now, but always preferred the Drake twins for CW operation. 

The combination of crystal filters and passband tuning makes it much
easier (for me) to tune in and isolate weak signals than the variable
BFO on the Collins.  The R4C with the Sherwood mods is one of the best
CW receivers I have ever used, and I still used mine as a second
receiver along with more modern and allegedly better solid state
transceivers (TS-940, FT-1000, OMNI VI+, K-2).  When listening to weak
signals, especially on the low band, I was often able to copy them
better on the R4C than on any other radio.  I hooked up a 75S3C like
this a few times, too, but it never lasted long before going back to the
boat anchor station.

Theoretically, the Collins has a better transmitter, since it uses 6146s
instead of sweep tubes, but I never had any trouble with 6JB6s and
always felt they worked fine.  I have very little experience using
either rig on phone, but feel they both have excellent audio both on
transmit and receive.  

That S Line sure does look cool sitting on the desk, though!  

73,

Mike W3MC

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Thursday, 16 June, 2011 08:27
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared


ALL -

Once again,  _WHY PRIVATE E-MAILS_.   DO YOU "LACK THE COURAGE OF YOUR
CONVICTIONS"?  AFRAID SOMEONE 
MIGHT DISAGREE??  WHAT!?!?!?!?!?

Like Paul, I'm interested in others responses, whether I agree with them
or not.  Aside from losing those opinions today, they are also left out
of the archives.

Sheesh!!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Paul Christensen wrote:
> Great set of responses, both from public and private E-mails.  Many
thanks to all for your input. 
> It was a real learning experience for me since I have not "lived the
moment" with a Collins S Line.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
>
>

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[Drakelist] tri band beam for sale

[mike bryce]

boys and girls.

Cleaning the barn and lo and behold I found a mosley tri band beam. It's the 
full size and not the Jr edition

too good to trash, but unless someone wants it, it's recycle bin bound.

I figure about $50 from the recycle center, so that's the price.

now the bad news

I'm not about to ship this bad boy. it's too long and the ups charges would be 
out of sight.

I'm in massillon/canton Ohio 

if you want, it you're going to have to come get it.

But wait, there's more!

Also, I have a GAP Titian (?) in the pile, too. It's damaged, but all the 
pieces parts are there.

It's free with the tri bander

again, you need to come and get this and I won't ship these monsters out.

have a great memorial weekend

mike...

 

mike bryce
proso...@sssnet.com



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 35, Issue 26

[Mike Williams]

Thanks Evan,

one of the things I would suggest is to extend the Q & A time by adding 15 
minutes or so to the entire forum.



73 de W4DL   Mike



- Original Message - 
From: 

To: 
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 12:00 PM
Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 35, Issue 26



Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
drakelist@zerobeat.net

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drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Drake Forum at Hamvention 2011 (K9sqg)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 10:24:21 -0400
From: K9sqg 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Forum at Hamvention 2011
Message-ID: <8cde76c3e0571c2-27cc-cf...@webmail-d131.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"




Fellow enthusiasts,



Thanks for the fine attendance of this year's Drake Forum.  It was 
basically standing room only.  We hope that you enjoyed the session and 
free prizes.  We realize that we broke with tradition and had a beautiful 
weekend without rain; sometimes change is good.



Feel free to provide any feedback, questions, comments, constructive 
criticism, etc. so that we can benefit from it and make it better each and 
every year we are allowed to have the Drake Forum.



We are working on making the video available for all those that were not 
able to attend.  After editing, we will make an announcement as to the 
availability of the video either online, via CD/DVD, or both.



Until next Hamvention, enjoy those Drakes!


For the Drake Forum committee,


Evan, K9SQG


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* 



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Re: [Drakelist] How much is an AC-4 power supply really worth? Some thoughts.

[mike bryce]

Kris,

some of those supplies fall under the 'it worked the last time it was plugged 
in' so I'd be very careful about sticking a price on such a item.

Some AC4Rs that have my rebuilt kit, and advertised as such, seem to bring in a 
lot more money, especially on ebay.

but, that's just a non scientific observation on my part

mike

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o 

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is never 
sure. 




On May 15, 2011, at 12:30 PM, Kris Merschrod wrote:

> Just some thoughts - no questions :>)
> 
> Recently I bought an AC-4 power supply (serial # above 55,000) that had parts 
> missing.  Basically, and I knew it, the $43 (included shipping) was buying a 
> cabinet, the three pronged power cord, the main cord with cinch connector, 
> the fuse holder, the L-C's for the power line, the terminal strips and the 
> transformer.  Mike's (WB8VRG) AC4R rebuild kit was also needed to complete 
> the parts. I prefer to buy Mike's rebuild with the PCB assembled.  For the 
> extra $15 I know that it was done well.  So, with the kit and postage another 
> $86 goes into the project.  In this case the cost of a set of components for 
> an AC4 comes to $129.00.  Then you have to add TLC, some enjoyable time at 
> the bench and the proverbial smoke test. .
> 
> Considering all of the warnings about how a failing supply can take down a 
> rig, rebuilding is an insurance policy.  Plus, when those caps melt down it 
> is a real mess to clean up!
> 
> So, when looking at Ron's (WB4HFN) price range for AC-4s from $48 to $193.50 
> with an average of $106, you have to assume that the above average ones are 
> rebuilt.  If a professional adds the TLC and does the rebuild, then another 
> way shipping would be an additional cost for sure. Then the fair price should 
> be at the top.
> 
> Kris KM2KM
> 
> Merschrod
> 123 Warren Road
> Ithaca, NY 14850
> www.merschrod.net 
> 
> ___
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> 

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[Drakelist] two drake questions

[mike bryce]

Gang!

First off, I have a tr4 that works just fine, good output, receives fine, but...

the pto is 'jumpy' as you tune through a station. It doesn't drift. So, what's 
the problem?

And,
 
anyone know where the s-meter zero adjust is on a tr-3?

mike


Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
 
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
 Albert Einstein

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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,RE: Blue Foil Filters

[Mike Williams]

Karl,

may I suggest you look into the blue LED kits for the panel lights rather 
than the new foil and incandescent bulbs.  I changed my 4C and 7 line to 
these LED kits and they look great, generate less heat and consume much less 
power.  I purchased the kits on line and they were very reasonable, try a 
search and you will find the supplier.  Of course if you are a strict Drake 
purist, ( and I hope you are)  you may want to stay with the original 
configuration.


Regards,

W4DL Mike


- Original Message - 
From: 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 9:47 AM
Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 34, Issue 26



Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
drakelist@zerobeat.net

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http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. L-7 Gone (Kevin Nathan)
  2. Looking for L-75 (Kevin Nathan)
  3. TR-4 'bouncing' S-Meter (Paul Gerhardt)
  4. Re: TR-4 'bouncing' S-Meter (Garey Barrell)
  5. Re: TR-4 'Bouncing' S-Meter (Paul Gerhardt)
  6. Re: TR-4 'Bouncing' S-Meter (Paul Gerhardt)
  7. Re: TR-4 'Bouncing' S-Meter (john)
  8. Drake TR7: Lee Blue Filter Foils (Karl du Roi)
  9. Re: Drake TR7: Lee Blue Filter Foils (Tom Evans, AG9X)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 11:09:50 -0700
From: "Kevin Nathan" 
To: 
Subject: [Drakelist] L-7 Gone
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All,

Just wanted to let you all know the L-7 has sold.  Thanks much.  Very 73.


Kevin :)
Amateur Radio:  K7RX


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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 11:12:05 -0700
From: "Kevin Nathan" 
To: 
Subject: [Drakelist] Looking for L-75
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All,

Now that the L-7 is gone, anyone on the list have an L-75 you might be
looking to part with?  From owning one several years back, I seem to
remember that the band switch and filter caps were weak points.  I would
want to be assured both were in sound condition in any L-75 I might
purchase.

Thanks much for reading and very 73.

Kevin :)
Amateur Radio:  K7RX


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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 14:24:11 -0400
From: Paul Gerhardt 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 'bouncing' S-Meter
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

This is a minor issue but is there a cure for excessive 'bouncing'  of
the S-Meter?  It seems to work normally but with say an S9 signal it
seems to 'bounce' excessivly.  Maybe the AVC is not as Slow as it
should be, it is working though, OR is it possible that the Meter
itself has lost some of its 'damping' ability?



Paul on the Eastern Shore
btw pix of the filter on
http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com

On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 12:00 PM,   wrote:

Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
? ? ? ?drakelist@zerobeat.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
? ? ? ?http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
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? ? ? ?drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net

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? ? ? ?drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. tr-4c s-meter abnormality and reduced sensitivity (Kihwal Lee)
? 2. Re: tr-4c s-meter abnormality and reduced sensitivity
? ? ?(Garey Barrell)
? 3. Re: tr-4c s-meter abnormality and reduced sensitivity (Kihwal Lee)
? 4. Re: tr-4c s-meter abnormality and reduced sensitivity
? ? ?(Garey Barrell)
? 5. Case screws for L4B PS? (Rich Hallman - N7TR)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 11:20:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kihwal Lee 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] tr-4c s-meter abnormality and reduced sensitivity
Message-ID: <787196.34524...@web81008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

My TR-4C's s-meter points to S-9 under no signal condition. Adjusting the
sensitivity and the zero po

Re: [Drakelist] Station upgrade

[Mike Pappas]

This is very fine work Doug.  Nice to see the reality vs. the hype.

Thank you very much for the information.

Best regards and '73,


Mike Pappas
W9CN
advanceddigi...@mac.com



On Mar 10, 2011, at 9:04 AM, Doug Smith [W7KF] wrote:

> You have it right.  Up to 5/8 wavelength a vertical can be an excellent 
> antenna.  Beyond 5/8 wavelength more and more RF radiates at a high angle and 
> the low angle lobe becomes secondary and continues to decrease in strength as 
> the frequency goes up.
> 
> So, for a 43' vertical:
> 
> Length:   43.00   
>   
> Frequency:  Wavelength: Wavelength: Degrees:
> 1.825   0.085   4/47 30.7
> 3.550   0.166   16/9759.7
> 5.368   0.251   1/ 4 90.3
> 7.050   0.329   27/82   118.5
> 10.120  0.473   26/55   170.1
> 14.050  0.656   21/32   236.2
> 18.150  0.848   39/46   305.2
> 21.050  0.983   58/59   353.9
> 24.950  1.165   1 16/97 419.5
> 28.100  1.312   1  5/16 472.4
> 
> Since 5/8 == 0.625 you can see that on 20 meters the antenna is just a bit 
> over 5/8 wavelength.  Beyond 20 meters the antenna gets pretty long.
> 
> Most of the commercial 43' antennas have a UNUN at the feedpoint (bad idea in 
> a reactive circuit), suggest 150' of coax (the losses make the SWR measured 
> at the rig look "better") and suggest a tuner in the shack.
> 
> I's suggesting that all three of those ideas are serious compromises made for 
> the sake of convenience.  Of course, in that scenario the antenna will 
> radiate some RF, it will work.  It's just that it won't work to anywhere near 
> it's potential.
> 
> And, to call the antenna an "all band" setup is a serious disservice to the 
> radio community.  Above 20 meters the performance will be very poor as the 
> majority of the radiated RF will be Lost In Space.
> 
> 73,
> -Doug, W7KF
> http://www.w7kf.com
> 
> 
> Damien Mannix wrote:
>> A most interesting thread.  However may I ask for a clarification please?
>> I have always understood, mainly from Bill Orr's wonderful but out of print 
>> books, that a 5/8 vertical had the lowest angle main lobe and hence was 
>> superior for DX to a 1/4 wave vertical, all othrer factors being equal.  Is 
>> it only when longer than 5/8 that the antenna is transformed into a 'cloud 
>> warmer' or have I got it all wrong?
>> Hope I am not being too stupid or pedantic.
>> Damien G3XER/C6AXE
> 
> 
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[Drakelist] Heathkit shop AC4R status

[mike bryce]

Boys and girls.

I figured this would be as good of a place as any.

If you or anyone you know of has ordered an AC4R ps kit or a L7R kit

I'll be shipping out those products as soon as I can. I'm waiting on some 
parts. Those should be here this coming week 

but...

Friday night my wife had a heart attack. Her well being comes first. 

She's home. but her heart sounds like HW-16 with a bad crystal. A pacemaker is 
on top of the list. There's no drugs available. 

what she has I can't even say, let alone spell.

Watching the monitors in the ER was kind of fascinating. Even I could see the 
missing beats and defective pulses.

so, allow me to regroup. get my cats in line and will ship things out as soon 
as parts/time allows

and as always, pop me a note, drop a call, and I'll send your $$$ back.  I have 
a day job, this is hobby.

Mike, wb8vge




Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
 
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
 Albert Einstein

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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 60

[Mike Williams]

Ditto here Mike,

the instructions were more than adequate and I did cross check with the 
schematic to make sure;  I have also installed the Sherwood mods in my R4C 
and it too has wire color codes which Drake decided to change during 
production.  Know what you are cutting, desoldering and rerouting before you 
pull the trigger!



73 de W4DL   Mike


- Original Message - 
From: 

To: 
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 12:00 PM
Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 60



Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
drakelist@zerobeat.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
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You can reach the person managing the list at
drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. AC-4R kit (John Boyle)
  2. Re: AC-4R kit (Don Cunningham)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 11:39:26 -0500
From: "John Boyle" 
To: 
Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very 
easy to assemble.  I think he has the right to assume that one can read a 
schematic and has had some experience in working with electronics.  I made 
it a opoint to carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring with 
the schematic.  The result was that it passed the "smoke test" with flying 
colors and the voltages were as advertized.  Mike has done a great job 
that has benefitted many Drake owners.


John, VE3PMA
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 10:49:43 -0600
From: "Don Cunningham" 
To: "mike bryce" 
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Message-ID: <6FF37A7821E140849A186FB7D7F31AB5@DON>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Mike,
I too found your instructions to be adequate for me, an old retired school 
administrator, to rebuild one AC4 very easily.  I plan to incorporate the 
same kit in all my AC4's as I can afford it.  I found it to be a high 
quality board, good components, and with adequate pre-planning (pictures, 
tracing wiring to be sure it matched your colors and noting differences on 
the instructions) I had NO glitches at all.


I do some blueprint checking and technical writing for a local oilfield 
manufacturer and find that engineers (and designers) are sometimes too 
close to the project to see all the ways that something can be 
communicated.  That's why they keep calling me back, to sort out what 
needs to be included (after customer feedback) in future issuances of 
materials.  I simply make suggestions, as I am NOT the designer of the 
gear, but we find a middle ground that the customer can understand (often 
in other parts of the world, not the U.S.).


Guys, we have far too few vendors willing to supply us with our needs to 
keep the old rigs running.  Mike at  the Heathkit Shop, Tom at Hayseed 
Hamfest, Jeff at Harbach and many others have ALWAYS been courteous and 
helpful to me.  I DO try to warn new hams of the hazards that are faced in 
the old gear with higher voltages to consider.  I usually do it off list, 
as I have lost very good friends to stupid accidents that could have been 
prevented.  Many new hams have NOT had our experiences since childhood 
with this stuff.


Thanks again Mike, Tom, Jeff and others for making quality upgrades 
available for our old gear.

73,
Don, WB5HAK
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* 



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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit

[Mike Pappas]

I installed an AC-4R kit and didn't have a problem with it.  

Went in just fine without drama.

High quality components and the instructions were just fine.

I would highly recommend it.

Mike Pappas
W9CN
advanceddigi...@mac.com



On Feb 25, 2011, at 10:52 AM, LEE BAHR wrote:

> Mike;
>  
> In today's society you never blame fault on yourself or your own ignorance!  
> You have to blame it on others.  Installing your AC-4R and the one for the 
> Drake amps is a no brainer if you can read a schematic.  You  don't even need 
> written instructions if you can read a schematic and understand how the 
> device works.  This whole discussion points out how inebt ham radio has 
> become in general over time. 
>  
> I think I have purchased around 20 AC-4R boards and around 3 or 4 boards for 
> Drake amps from you.  Never a problem and you supply a great 1st class 
> product and service.
>  
> There is a discussion going on right now on another reflector over doing some 
> simple math using Algebra.  One guy needs to get a solution but doesn't know 
> algebra.  I say, go to night school and get some remeadial training.  There 
> are just too many people today wanting others to always "bail them out".   
>  
> Lee, w0vt
> Houston, Texas
>  
>  
>  MikeSubject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
> 
> Boys and girls...
> 
> Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor.
> 
> The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake 
> changed over production runs.
> 
> Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire 
> with a white tracer.
> 
> the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really 
> problematic. 
> 
> 1. orange
> 2. orange with white tracer
> 3. white with orange tracer
> 4. red
> 
> 
> now, pick one!
> ___
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit

[mike bryce]

Boys and girls...

Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor.

The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake 
changed over production runs.

Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire 
with a white tracer.

the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really 
problematic. 

1. orange
2. orange with white tracer
3. white with orange tracer
4. red


now, pick one! I can't write instructions that cover each and every deviation 
of wiring codes, so I try and hit in the middle.

If there is a shortage wire in the kits, I send a notice that you should use 
this color instead of that color.

If you have a supply with the transformer pointing the opposite way, then that 
needs to be addressed.

Ooh, no threads on the transformer? Oops, you can't mount the PCB there. 

I'm trying to tell someone that I don't know— if they know what end a soldering 
iron get hot— and trying to installing a  retrofit into a piece of gear 40 
years old. It's not a simple task.



The number of phone calls from guys who shouldn't be working with electricity 
scares me. Trying to explain to the guy on the other end how to set his simpson 
260 up to read voltage. He didn't know!

or the guy that calls on a Sunday night because the bias voltage reads 
backwards. He's upset because the voltage is negative and he can't figure out 
way. A hour long phone call shot in the ass trying to explain that bias voltage 
is negative in reference to ground.

How would you react to that? 


Most of the time, guys don't read the instructions first, and then start 
cutting away. Then they find out they can't find the black wire from the radio 
cable because it was gray instead.

If anyone would like to sit down and rewrite the instructions, please do so! 
I'll be more than happy to use YOUR instructions.

As far as being in the mood to appreciate feedback, I accept all that I get. I 
accept criticism as well as most people.

If something is wrong, I'll fix it. I just added more instructions and 
installation hints a week ago. If someone tells me that such and such step is 
confusing. I'll be more than happy to fix it. It's just words on a computer 
screen. Tap-tap, they're changed!

But...

Don't send me emails telling me how stupid I am. How your old sergeant knew 
more about drakes than I do. Or how you spent 60 years in the navy and my 
instructions don't meet
the TMA codes you're use to. OR send me a photos of two AC4s with the guts 
ripped out and you don't understand why one has different wires than the other 
one.

I keep and archive all emails, and I got some that would piss off the pope. 
Really puts you in the mood to appreciate feed back doesn't it? I mean, how you 
would react if you receive an email from someone you've never met and they tell 
you how stupid and F**K up you are and how this and that are all wrong in the 
instructions. How their 12 year old son could do a better job.

Tell me Tom, how you would react to that?



So, if you don't like the instructions, don't feel I accept and appreciate 
feedback, then sit down, re-wrire the them so they cover every version of the 
drake AC4, every possible deviation, and all possible obstacles. Make them 
crystal clear for everyone on every end of the spectrum. All the old navy comm 
techs, all the new hams, and everyone in between. And send them to me. I'll 
trash the one I did and  be more than happy to include your new instructions  
in the kits. I accept Microsoft .doc and .docx files.


And...

I'll be sure to forward all the emails from people that can't figure out your 
instructions.

And...

I'm going to crawl back into the woodwork. This forum is not the place to 
discuss this any further.

mike, wb8vge

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
 
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
 Albert Einstein

On Feb 25, 2011, at 1:25 AM, Richard Knoppow wrote:

> 
> - Original Message - From: "TC Dailey" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2011 9:01 PM
> Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
> 
> 
> If you're using HIS kit, one HUGE caveat.
> 
> His instructions are not very good, and he's really not in the mood to
> appreciate feedback, so here ya go:  Follow his instructions for REMOVAL of
> all of the components to be replaced + remove ALL old caps (you don't need
> 'em - who cares what it looks like under the METAL SHIELD?...duh
> 
> NOW - install the spacers and "fit" the board - leave ALL fasteners loose.
> Take the board back out.
> 
> Now skip steps - lengthen all SECONDARY windings of the transformer (except
> for the filament - th

Re: [Drakelist] Test equipment and getting started

[Mike Pappas]

The other question is what the difference between ground and neutral?

Hopefully not 20 volts AC..


Mike Pappas
advanceddigi...@mac.com



On Feb 1, 2011, at 8:08 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:

> Ah, but the questions are, what is a ground? And when is a ground not a 
> ground?
> Also, when is more than one ground not a good thing?
> 
> 73
> 
> -Jim


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Re: [Drakelist] Test equipment and getting started

[Mike Pappas]

To keep your wife from blowing all of your insurance money on a Blond Surfer 
Boy Toy from Santa Cruz?  :)

But seriously if you get between the hot and ground it should trip the GFI 
before sufficient current passes through your body and stops your heart.

Mike Pappas
W9CN
advanceddigi...@mac.com



On Feb 1, 2011, at 4:45 PM, kc9...@aol.com wrote:

> Why is it recommended to use the GCFI?
> 73,
> Lee


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Re: [Drakelist] Test equipment and getting started

[Mike Pappas]

Sources of isolation transformers:

http://www.hammondmfg.com/5cline.htm

http://www.newark.com/stancor/gis-250/isolation-transformer/dp/16M3780


Mike Pappas
advanceddigi...@mac.com



On Feb 1, 2011, at 4:16 PM, Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF wrote:

> You don't make one, you go buy it.
> It's just a 1:1 mains in/mains out power transformer.
> You probably need something rated for a couple of KVA. They're not cheap.
> Run the transformer from a GFCI protected power outlet.
> 
> 
> 
> On 01-Feb-11 23:06, Jim Larsen - AL7FS wrote:
>> While we are on test equipment topics...
>> 
>> I have been combing the internet for a building article on isolation 
>> transformers and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters
>> (GFCI). I cannot believe that I cannot find any. It is not even in the ARRL 
>> Handbooks I looked at.
>> 
>> I want to start working on boatanchor rigs, not to mention my TR4-CW, but 
>> everybody says ALWAYS use an isolation
>> transformer and GFCI. Nobody says How to do that. It is assumed that all 
>> hams know what an isolation transformer is or
>> how to build one. Somehow I missed that in my 46 years as a ham. Go figure.
>> 
>> Google and Bing have failed me. Can any of you help? A URL? A PDF? A .doc 
>> file?
>> 
>> Thank you.
>> 
>> 73, Jim
>> 
>> Jim Larsen, AL7FS
>> Anchorage Alaska
>> 907-345-3190
>> http://www.AL7FS.us/
>> 
>> 
>> On 2/1/2011 8:18 AM, TC Dailey wrote:
>> 
>> * test gear on MY bench is my trusty Variac.
>> I run mine through an isolation xfmr,
>> a single 117vac outlet. AND plug-in bridge rectifier
>> * Number two is an ANALOG type VTVM -
>> * Number three is my old Kenwood TS-430S (used as a receiver)
>> * Soldering iron AND a soldering GUN -
>> * HP-606A (great signal generator) was analog of course, so I
>> made a minibox with a .1 cap in series with the gozinta and the
>> gozouta - with a pickup loop for a counter - it's easy to zero up that
>> way.
>> 
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>> 
> 
> -- 
> Nigel A. Gunn,  1865 El Camino Drive, Xenia, OH 45385-1115, USA.  tel +1 937 
> 825 5032
> Amateur Radio G8IFF W8IFF (was KC8NHF 9H3GN),  e-mail ni...@ngunn.net   
> www  http://www.ngunn.net
> Member of  ARRL, GQRP #11396, QRPARCI #11644, SOC #548,  Flying Pigs QRP Club 
> International #385,
>   Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691,  AMSAT-UK 0182, MKARS,  ALC, 
> GCARES, XWARN, EAA382.
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: [Drakelist] AC4 heat Fan Summary

[mike bryce]

thought I'd toss my .02 in with a question

on the tr series, a fan mounted to the rear of the pa compartment, 

should it blow in

or suck out?

since we're not trying to pressurize a compartment, there's plenty of holes in 
the cage and top cover, and since heat rises,
it would seem to me that one would mount the fan so it would blow into and onto 
the final tubes

To me, it seems a fan sucking air out of the pa compartment would have to 
compete with the natural convention of heat raising

so, what's the word from the thermal gods?



Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
 
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
 Albert Einstein


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[Drakelist] sw1 help

[mike bryce]

Well dug out the little sw1 and it seems to be really deaf , can't even hear 
much of the local am broadcast stations.

dug around with a clip lead on to the antenna and got a few stations. seems 
that the front is is not working

any way, does anyone have a schematic for the sw1?

thanks...

mike


Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
 
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
 Albert Einstein

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Re: [Drakelist] My AC-4 is humming just a little.

[mike bryce]

a three wire power cord is a real good idea, too



Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
 
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
 Albert Einstein

On Nov 13, 2010, at 8:26 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote:

> 
> - Original Message - From: "Joe Loverti" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 4:32 PM
> Subject: [Drakelist] My AC-4 is humming just a little.
> 
> 
>> Hi guys:
>> I've rebuilt my AC-4 using the Heathkit Shop Kit recently and all went well.
>> All the voltages read within range and I'm happy with the rebuild and the
>> kit.
>> 
>> I have the AC-4 mounted inside the MS-4 cabinet and it sits atop my MN2000
>> with brand new rubber feet, yet I can hear a very low AC hum coming from the
>> cabinet. It's not coming from the speaker because I can hear the same low
>> level AC hum with the speaker cable disconnected. It's not enough to really
>> bother me and I only hear it when the room is quiet and the audio from the
>> rig is turned down. I'm just wondering if this is normal or do I have an
>> issue that I need to take care of.
>> 
>> Any ideas certainly most welcome. Thanks.
>> 
>> Joe
>> WW8X
>> Miamisburg
>> Ohio
>> 
>   That kind of hum is often from the transformer. Try tightening the bolts 
> that hold the laminations together, that may eliminate it. Otherwise you may 
> have to mount the supply on isolators of some sort like soft rubber grommets 
> between the transformer and speaker case. There should be gromets or at least 
> thick washers on the bottom too so that the screws do not make direct 
> contact. Vibration isolation can be difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles
> WB6KBL
> dickb...@ix.netcom.com
> 
> 
> ___
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> 

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Re: [Drakelist] Using Heath HP-23 with TR-3 or Looking for an AC-3

[mike bryce]

gang

with the higher ac main voltages running now, the output of the hp23 will run 
close to 900+ volts.. 

I'd never use one for the drake rigs

mike bryce
proso...@sssnet.com



On Oct 2, 2010, at 11:20 AM, Garey Barrell wrote:

> Chris -
> 
> The high voltage from the HP-23 is a little high in voltage and a quite low 
> in current capability.  That said, it would probably 'work' for low duty 
> cycle use.  CW, SSB with 'typical' transmission duration, (no AM style 'old 
> buzzard',) and no AM.
> 
> HP-23 - 700 VDC @ 250 mA
> 
> TR-3  -  650 VDC @ 300 mA, 500 mA peak.
> 
> So the '23 won't blow up, but it probably gets pretty warm.  A fan on it 
> would help a little.
> 
> Much easier is an AC-3, -OR- and AC-4.  Either will work just fine.  The 
> AC-4R is a good idea with either.
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
> 
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
> 
> 
> Christopher Bowne wrote:
>> Greetings from Chris, AJ1G in Stonington, CT.
>> 
>> This is my first post to the group.  I picked up a TR-3  at Near-Fest 
>> Deerfield
>> last fall.  Has been sitting while I come up with a power supply for it. I
>> picked up a Heath HP-23.as a potential supply for it this spring.  From what 
>> I
>> have read the HP-23 might be marginal with the Drakes due to the higher 
>> current
>> draw of the Drake sweep tubes vs 6146s?  I would prefer using an original or
>> updated AC-3 if anyone has one available for sale. I would also be 
>> interested in
>> a supply for mobile use, again  would like to hear comments on use of the 
>> lete
>> model Heath DC solid state mobile supply for the HW/SB transceivers with the
>> TR-3.
>> 
>> Also looking for info on using the TR-3 on AM'
>> 
>> 73,   Chris, AJ1G
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>>   
> 
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> 


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[Drakelist] odd ball s-meter on tr4

[Mike Bryce]

Boys and girls

working on the fubar tr4 on my bench.

got the receiver working, the transmitter is on line now too

but I've got a problem with the receiver I've never seen before. I  
know what is wrong, but have not dived into it yet. I was just  
wondering if anyone


it seems like the agc is screwed up. receiver is full gain, audio  
distorts on strong signals

turning down the rf gain clears things up

now...

on strong signals, the s-meter deflects backwards! Yup! goes down  
instead of up.


got to be something in the balance circuit that's upsetting things.

yeah, changed out a few tubes and no joy

anyone?

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large  
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced





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Re: [Drakelist] rubber feet for ac-4

[Mike]

The new McMaster-Carr number for the black bumper dome 7/16 dia. feet is 
95495K121.

They fit in the depression of the spacers on the cabinets.

Mike AA8W



- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] rubber feet for ac-4



Jim -

The rubber feet are supplied to sit the power supply on a table or shelf. 
They are removed when the supply is installed inside an MS-4 and replace 
with regular 6-32 Pan Head (or Round Head, or Allen Cap, or ...) whatever 
screws you have handy!


Thats why so many supplies no longer have the rubber bumper feet!  IF you 
HAD the feet, you could use them to hold the supply in also, and if more 
had done that back in the 60's they wouldn't be so hard to find today.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Jim Wagner wrote:
First Thanks to all who responded on the desoldering tool. Lots of ideas 
I never new.
Next I am looking for the four feet that I need to put a AC-4 into a MS-4 
cabinet. I understand they are rubber and I would imagine keep the ps 
from scratching the inside if the cabinet. But I am not sure. Any advice 
would be appreciated or a source so that I might buy some.

Thanks again
Jim.W7JJW



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 acting strange

[Mike]

Gary,

great shots of the Drake stations across the years;  I had a ball with the 
TR-33C; I purchased one when they first came out and had it crystalled for the 
one local  repeater and 146.52.  I still have it here and put it in service on 
the outside antenna occasionally and receive great audio reports!  (slightly 
off topic)

73 de W4DLMike
Pompano Beach, FL USA


  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Poland 
  To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 2:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 acting strange


  Ron,
I haven't been following the thread but of the TR-7's that I have owned or 
serviced the lowest I have seen the +24 volts and not had an issue with the PLL 
locking up on 14 mhz and higher was 23.6 volts. That's not to say 23.3 vdc is 
bad, I just haven't yet seen it. The voltage just needs to be high enough for 
the VCO to work on higher frequencies.
The 30 vdc input for the 24 v regulator is derived from the DC inverter 
Q2104, Q2105, T2101, and associated parts. Some times the powdered core halves 
of T2101 will separate and lower the 30 volts input. In that case just 
reposition them and tighten the loop wire holding them or use hot glue to keep 
them in place. Some power supply boards will have 68 ohm resistors soldered 
across R2129 and R2130. This may also help to raise the 30 volts from the 
regulator. I also in one case I replaced C2117 and C2115 with .033 ufd to get 
the voltage up. Like the 68 ohm resistors some boards have those same 
capacitors soldered on the backs of the board so I suspect Drake had issues 
with the design.

  73, Gary W8PU
  http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu




--


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Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 CW VOX Delay

[Mike]

I used a foot switch for keying my TR4CW; it made operating much smoother 
without modifying the radio and without as much of the relay clatter



73 de W4DLMike
Pompano Beach, FL USA



- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" 

To: "Drakelist" 
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 CW VOX Delay



Curt -

VOX delay is adjusted with R106, which is selected at final test.  It is 
designed for SSB, as is the rest of the TR-4.  You  _might_  be able to 
find a value that is a reasonable compromise over the narrow range of 
adjustment provided by the VOX GAIN control, but ...


Initial value for R106 is 3.3M.  Depending upon how you feel about 
modifications, you could replace R106 with a pot and mount it on the rear 
panel.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Curt Nixon wrote:

Good Morning All:

Playing with a nice TR4 here and wondering if there is a way to extend
the delay when using CW mode.  I see very little difference from CCW
to CW on the VOX control in CW although it works fine in SSB.
Would like to lengthen the drop out time without messing up the VOX
level control.

Thnks

Curt
KU8L



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Re: [Drakelist] Off topic:

[Mike Bryce]

Try this test.

Hook the meter up backwards, I.e. switch the coax cables.

now the reflected position will read forward power and the forward  
position will read reflective power


see if the reflective meter position moves now when you squirt some RF  
into it. if it doesn't check the output of the diode before you start  
with the pot.


you could have a solder problem (not unusual with mfj) on the selector  
switch



Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is  
never sure.





On Jan 16, 2010, at 8:46 PM, Luther Nallie wrote:

Now that I can get on all bands with my TR4Cw, my tuner went on the  
blink.  It is an MFJ 941D (which is a cheapie, but has worked good for  
me).  I had no meter movement and I changed out the two germanium  
diodes (1N34A) and got my meter working on forward power but not  
reflected power.  There is a variable resistor located between the two  
diodes labeled 500K RL that is shot.  I don't know the power rating of  
that component or where to find it, but I think that would fix my  
reflected power problem.  Any help would be appreciated.  I know this  
is off topic, but I need it to use my Drake!


Thanks,
Luther, KQ5O

Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it now.  
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[Drakelist] tube question for the drake r4b

[Mike Bryce]

Working my way through the pile.

I came upon a R4B that does not quite work right. before I dig into  
this receiver, i have a question


according to the manual, V1, A 6BZ6 is the RF amplifier

my radio has the expensive 6HS6 in place of the 6BZ6.

Is this a okay substitute ? Or do I need to order a 6BZ6 someplace?



Mike Bryce, WB8VGE
 the heathkit shop
SunLight energy systems
J e e p
o|||o


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Re: [Drakelist] bunches of drake questions

[Mike Williams]

I'm with Jim on this; I equipped my 4 C Line and the TR-7 and RV-7 with 
these and they look FB...


Good DX!


73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: 
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] bunches of drake questions



On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 13:05:57 -0500, Mike Bryce wrote:

I put in new blue plastic in the TR3, but its not really the blue that I 
think it should be. Do those overpriced blue LED make any difference?


They make a tremendous difference. The LEDs are very much monocolored 
compared

to the broader wavelengths passed though a filter material. Blue-er than
Drake's blue. You can find pictures on the internet. You can also build 
your
own if you don't like the prices. Information also on the internet. I 
would
post the URL to my blue LED page, but Drakelist bounces messages with a 
certian
hostname in it. You'll just have to google it, or decode it from my sig 
block

below.

73

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and 
he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim(dot)exofire(dot)net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] bunches of drake questions

[Mike Bryce]

Good---happy new year everyone

Well I'm starting my first new year's resolution of getting some of my  
old drake up and running.


Just did a few quick tests and there's some issues with several  
transceivers.


so, in no manor of importance:

One TR-4 the band switch is tight. Grease or oil, or ??

Another TR-4 appears to be fubar. No receive, can't hear calibrator.

Another TR-4, when the mic gain control is advanced, the receivers  
howls.


One TR3, everyone is 20 over s-9. A simple adjustment?


I don't have RG-62 to hook up between a TX4B and a R4B. Would a hunk  
of RG-58 do?


All the rigs did work the last time I had them on, but they have sat  
now for several years. I'm reworking the entire drake station and will  
simply keep some juice flowing to them so they stay alive.


I put in new blue plastic in the TR3, but its not really the blue that  
I think it should be. Do those overpriced blue LED make any difference?





Have great Holiday everyone!


Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large  
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced





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Re: [Drakelist] AC4 Power Supply Modification

[Mike Bryce]

Try this old trick.

I used it with great success when switching high current dc.

get a multi pole relay, then wire all the contacts in series, that way  
when the relay opens up, you have several air gaps the dc must breach.


Try a two pole relay first, remember you do NOT parallel the contacts,  
you wire them in series. In on one, out of the other, in on the next  
and the out to the load.



Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large  
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced





On Dec 10, 2009, at 1:17 PM, Steve Berg wrote:


I may have asked this her before, but I thought I would post it  
anyway.  One of the oldest radios in my modest collection is a Gonset  
G-76 transceiver.  I bought it used from AES in 1965, but was too poor  
as a starving high school student to afford the companion power  
supply, so I cobbled one together in breadboard fashion, and used it  
for years.  But, the voltages were never quite right.  Now, Gonset  
power supplies are virtually unobtainable, but I noted that the Drake  
power supplies had the right voltages for my relic and bought one.  I  
plan to get the Heathkit Shoppe update for it.  But, here is my  
dilemma.  The G-76 requires that the power supply disconnect the 650  
volt DC line from the rig during receive, and ground the line going to  
the radio.  I used to use a surplus ceramic 12 volt relay to do this,  
but that one has vanished somewhere in the past 40+ years.  I have  
tried to use normal power relays, but their contacts are seemingly set  
up for breaking lower voltage DC, or are self quenching when breaking  
AC.  I have had some rather spectacular arcs in a few relays when  
trying to use them for this application.  Where might I find a 12 volt  
AC coil power relay that will reliably open a 650 volt DC circuit, and  
ground the far side that is going to the radio?  Normally this would  
be a simple SPDT relay.


Also, I want to make any modifications as reversible as possible as I  
do not want to modify it so much that it would not be usable with a  
Drake rig in the future.


Help?

Steve WA9JML

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[Drakelist] L-75 Issues

[Mike Sawyer]

I'm still having some issues with this L-75 I'm working on. I lit it off 
after replacing the filter caps and pcb.  Two issues have shown up that I'm 
trying to work out. I don't get any power out on 160; about 10 watts on 80; 
100 on 40 and ~500 on 20. The dip on 20M is very sharp and tight which tells 
me the Q has increased drastically there. Plate current goes up and down 
with drive, (my TS-940 shows acceptable SWR from the input circuit, with no 
power fold-back). I'm beginning to think that the coupling caps, C30, C31, 
might be the culprits. They are 750 uuF at 4KV. One of the questions is it 
acceptable to replace these two disc ceramics with a single 1500 uuf 6KV 
one?
The other issue is I toasted the diode in the 'Relative Power' 
circuitry. Now this may be as a result of the first issue. But it is tied 
directly to the loading cap in the output tank circuit.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK 



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Re: [Drakelist] 2N3394 Transistor?

[Mike Williams]

I used a 2nA as a substitute for a failed BFO in a R4C with no issues..


73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill & Becky Marvin 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 10:25 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] 2N3394 Transistor?


  Hello  I'm still working on my R4B AGC problem...does Radio Shack 
have a equivalent replacement for the commonly used 2N3394 by Drake
  or someone on the list who has bought a large quantities of the 2N3394's that 
they would sell me a few?

  Best Holidays

  Bill Marvin KB9IV


--


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake AC4 loss of bias voltage conceptual circuit finished

[Mike Bryce]

Everyone!

thanks for all the input... like I said in my first post, this is a  
conceptual design.


right now, there's not enough room to put the circuit on the ac4r pcb,  
it just won't fit.


I've been asked about a price, Well it is way to early for that. I  
don't have a clue, remember this is only a paper design.


To make the circuit stand alone, that's not going to work. You need to  
monitor the bias voltage so there has to be someway to do that, and I  
don't like the idea of breaking the radio cable and inserting a black  
box. If I used two connectors, and another hunk of wire, then perhaps,  
but that's a real cluster and the cost/benefit is not there. I mean,  
really do you want a black box and extra cables between the rig?  
Sounds like a PITA to me. I don't favor running a wire from the rig  
back to a black box either. That's just tacky.



And like I mentioned in my first post, if you indeed have done the  
upgrade, the chance of loosing the bias is very low, so this will be a  
project for those that still use the original version. However that  
being said, the bias protection circuit will require some wire cutting  
and working of the basic circuit. and if you're going to do that, you  
may as well put in the upgrade.


I'll work some more on the design. I have a un-touched ac4 and will  
break out the ruler and take some measurements.


the project continues...

mike




Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is  
never sure.







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[Drakelist] Drake AC4 loss of bias voltage conceptual circuit finished

[Mike Bryce]

Boys and girls.

as anyone with a drake TR series rig knows, loose the bias and you  
cook your finals. It's a simple as that.


I've been working on the problem for a while and while I have yet to  
build the circuit, I have a conceptual design that seems to solve the  
problem.


If lost of bias is observed, the AC4 simply shuts off. There's no  
blown fuses, popped circuit breakers nor arcs or sparks. There's no  
crowbar that's jammed into the works.


There's that old saying about thinking outside the box, well at the  
end of the day, everything still has to go back into the box. Herein  
lies the problem.


If you used one of my AC4R rebuild kits, there's plenty of room left  
on the other side of the transformer to a pcb to go. That being said,  
if you already have the AC4R installed, your odds of a bias failure is  
rather remote.


So, the problem right now is trying to shoehorn the circuit inside the  
original AC4.


I'll tighten the design, build a few to see how they work.

Right now:

Totally transparent to the user. You won't know the protection is there.
Trying to get it inside the original AC4 case
Should lost of bias be detected, power supply simply shuts off.
Soft start on AC primary side
Once tripped, power supply will NOT turn back on till problem is fixed

Thinking about

Along with lost of bias, low bias (adjustable set point) would trigger  
shut down

A few LEDS so you can peek inside to see status of control circuit
A sense wire could be run to the transceiver to monitor "the plug got  
loose" on the radio



Boys and girls, how about some input?

MIke, WB8VGE

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is  
never sure.





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Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4

[Mike]

Try it on 12 VDC.  If no cable just clip it in.
Mike AA8W

- Original Message - 
From: "geoffrey mendelson" 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 2:20 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] SPR-4


I am now the proud owner of an SPR-4, serial number 5676.  It looks  
like it sat on a dusty shelf for a while, it is dusty and the ends of  
some things, such as the screws, rf gain knob (if you can call it a  
knob), are rusty.


It has two problems. One is the dial sometimes "sticks". The other is  
a loud hum from the speaker no matter what setting of the audo gain  
control.


Looking at the schematic, all of the power supply filtering is a  
1000mf/25 volt capacitor. Is this the source of the hum?

Is it likely that it will reform by leaving the radio on for a few days?

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
geoffrey mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Jerusalem Israel geoffreymendel...@gmail.com






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Re: [Drakelist] L4B Question

[Mike Sawyer]

What about the possibility of the solder coming out of the filament pins on 
the 3-500Z's?
Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK
- Original Message - 
From: "Al Parker" 
To: "Richard Radke" 
Cc: "drakelist" 
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B Question


Hi,
I'm not sure how the filaments are wired at the tube sockets, but
suspect the wire connections there, plus if the pins aren't tight they can
have enough resistance to develop enough heat to actually melt the solder in
the tube pins themselves.  But you wouldn't expect that to happen to both
tubes at once.
Sounds like a job for an ohmmeter.  Open it up & ck out the filament
ckt.
I didn't see a post from Evan, what did he suggest?
73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats."
   Ratty, to Mole


- Original Message - 
From: "Richard Radke" 
To: "Tom Evans, AG9X" 
Cc: "drakelist" 
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B Question


> Yup...tubes are stone cold dark...not a heck of a lot in that circuit
> to fail besides the feed-thru's and the choke...maybe Evan was right
> on the money..
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2009, at 2:47 PM, Tom Evans, AG9X wrote:
>
>>  "meters light, but tubes are dead"
>>
>> So you're saying that the tubes do not light up at all?
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Richard Radke 
>> wrote:
>> All,
>>
>> I was working the CQ WW DX Friday night (C line and L4B) on 40,
>> picking up a couple "new ones", cndx here were just so,so.  All was
>> well, shut down.  Resumed Saturday morning,
>> 20 sounded in great shape.  Tuned up the twins on the new band,
>> kicked in the L4B, and nothing.  Amp turns on, no smoke, meters
>> light, but tubes are dead.  HV present (1900 and 2600 volts).
>>
>> I installed Mike's upgrade kit 2 years ago, with new bleeders, in-
>> rush protection, and additional cooling. I replaced the feed-thru
>> caps last year because of a gird current issue.  It's been working
>> well, putting out about 1300 watts into a dummy load.
>>
>> My question is.  What are the chances of both tubes going at the
>> same time?  In looking at the schematic, the panel lights are on
>> the same side of the filament xfmr as the tubes.  Assuming if the
>> panel lights light, I've got voltage out of the xfmr.  One or both
>> of the feed-thru caps or filament choke?  Those are pretty robust
>> components, rated at 20 amps (if I remember right) and very hard to
>> find and get out.  I can probably build the choke if needed.
>>
>> Any thoughts on what to be looking for before I dive in?
>>
>> Rick
>> W9WS
>>
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>>
>
>





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[Drakelist] L-75 Assistance

[Mike Sawyer]

I'm finally getting around to re-assembling the L-75 I've been 
repairing. But due to 'OFS' & 'CRS', I'm having problems with the wiring.
Thanks to Ron, WB4HFN, I secured a new half of the filter boards. 
However, on the lower left-hand part of the filter board with the metering 
adjustment circuitry, there is a place for a wire, but I'll be damned if I 
can find that wire. Please help me identify what gets connected there. Also, 
there was a lead in yellow insulation that is tied to one of the mounting 
screws. I'm curious as to its purpose.
Also, I'm pretty sure here but I just want to ask incase I make a 
crucial mistake. On the lower right-hand side of the same board is a pcb 
eyelet hole. Is this where the other half of the filter section feeds 
through?
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK



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Re: [Drakelist] Just thinking out loud

[Mike Bryce]

thanks guys for the input...

like I was saying, this is just wishful thinking.

as for the lost of bias voltage. that's bit rougher. A common problem  
is just having the plug come somewhat loose and you loose the bias.  
That would require some feedback or sense wire from the rig back to  
the power supply. Not a doable option


lost of bias at the supply is easier to do. But will require a bit of  
work. I don't know if the amount of hassle is worth the price of  
admission.





Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is  
never sure.







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[Drakelist] Just thinking out loud

[Mike Bryce]

Guys and gals...

This is somewhat a pipe dream.

Just thinking. Would a new state-of-the art power supply for the Trxxx  
series be doable?


Talking about new transformers, improved design, fan cooling, maybe a  
automatic lost of bias shut down.


perhaps more. Same size as the ac4? perhaps smaller?

what would be a doable price?

Not looking at specifics, but think the $250 to $300 range. Perhaps  
less, perhaps more. the determining factor will be a good long lasting  
transformer with improved rating.


so.. input anyone?


Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large  
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced





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Re: [Drakelist] Which tubes are the right tubesâ? ?

[Mike]

Home is best; glad to hear you are doing well;  look at this as an 
opportunity to work on your presentation for Dayton next year!



73 de W4DLMike
Pompano Beach, FL USA

zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 



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[Drakelist] L-75

[Mike Sawyer]

Hello,
I'm new to the list so forgive me if I ask a question that has been 
asked before.
I'm working on a Drake L-75 amplifier. It blew the 0.82O 2W resistor and 
'vaporized' some of the runs on the filter boards. Even though they read 
good on a capacitance checker, I replaced the caps with "Techman" 
electrolytics (made in USA). Unfortunately, due to the missing foil runs on 
the pcb, I had to fold the cap leads back to where they made contact with 
the runs. My only misgiving is whether it will withstand the HV there since 
it was not designed that way. I would prefer a new board but I guess they 
are like hens teeth.
So, one of my issues is due to the length of time it took me to finally 
repair it, I have suffered from CRS and need an assist with which wire goes 
where. Also, I would like to know what kind of fault took place to take out 
the resistor, (which I think that is what's supposed to happen) and toasted 
the foil runs. I don't know how it worked before hand since I received it 
this way.
Any and all help/suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Mod-U-Lator,
Mike(y)
W3SLK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Sweep Tube frustration

[Mike]

Nice analysis Ron!

73 de W4DLMike
Pompano Beach, FL USA


- Original Message - 
From: "Ron Baker" 
To: "'Hulett, Russell'" ; 


Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Sweep Tube frustration



Carl,  first of all it would be a sin to modify a nice piece
of Drake equipment. With that said I do not like any
Drake modifications, I like it the way it was, back when.
The problem is finding the 6JB6 tubes, and if you know where
to look new tubes are still available.   We know lately
there are several opportunities to buy those on eBay, both
new and used.   The problem is you really never know what
your getting until they arrive, but then its probably to
late if it was misrepresented.Those tubes just because
they are in a nice looking box and/or labeled as a match
pair, mean they are really new.   In most cases the seller
may not know for sure especially if it is part of an estate
sale.   All those are still "buyer beware"  Also watch out,
some of those deals maybe manufacturer 2nd's, those not
quite meeting manufacturer specifications, and those
probably will not work at transmitting tubes on the upper
brands.

Also, do not go for the less expensive 6JB6 substitutes.  I
have tested several, none of which preformed well in the
Drake radios.Some do well on the lower bands and even
put out more power, but on 15 and 10 meters oscillate and
will not neutralize.  So stick with the 6JB6 tube.   I have
found staying with the Sylvania, GE or RCA tubes work well
in the Drake.Other brands floating around like
International (blue box) are nothing but garbage, even new
out of the box.   Match pairs if you can get them that way
is nice, but having a match pair is not necessary if you
follow a few basic rules. Always make sure all the tubes
are the same manufacturer and are roughly the same age or
have the same manufacture date code.   If all that is
unknown simply test each tube in the transmitter one at a
time but removing the plate caps on all but one tube at a
time.   Note you need to keep all the tubes in the
transmitter because the filaments are in series.   Test each
tube by measuring the idle current of each tube
individually.  Do not adjust the bias while testing the
tubes, but one at a time record the idle current of each
tube under test.   Then just match the tubes that had the
same idle current reading.  Basically test all the tubes
under the same test condition and then match the tubes with
the same idle current  for match pairs or triples.

Testing the 6JB6 tube for performance is not too difficult.
Sure signs of weak and bad tubes is the power output.  The
first sign tubes are getting weak is a fall off of power on
10 meters.   A good set of tubes in a 4-line transmitter
should put out 100 watts or more at 10 meters.  As the tubes
get weak you will no longer obtain that power level.  As the
tubes get weak lack of power output becomes noticeable
starting at the highest frequency or bands and works towards
the lower bands.   Another test for tube performance is how
well the handle the bias adjustment.  A good set of tubes
the bias adjustment should have plenty of adjustment room on
both sides of the 60MA set point.   Old weak tubes the bias
setting is near or at the end of the pot rotation.  A good
set of tubes you should be able to turn the bias up to 120
to 150 MA of current.  However,  do that quickly and not
more that a second, you don't want to ruin the tubes.  Good
tubes with good conductivity have the capacity to idle at
much higher current levels.  With that said,  the normal
bias setting for a pair of tubes is 60 to 80MA max and for
three tubes 125MA in the TR4 series transceivers.I like
setting the bias to 60MA for new tubes and around 80MA for
the older tubes.

Where to buy tubes,  There are several tube vendors that
still have the 6JB6 tube.  Typically you can buy new NOS
tubes in the 22 to 30 dollar range.   You can check out my
website under the "Parts & Service" for a few tube vendors I
deal with.I know one of those vendor has a quantity of
NOS GE tubes at $22 each.  I just bought 50 from him and was
well pleased with what I received.

Ron / WB4HFN



-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Hulett,
Russell
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 9:52 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Sweep Tube frustration

Of four pair 6JB6 I own, only one will load on 15M and 10M.
Only two will load above 40M.  I'm using my T-4XB as the
test rig ( the best pair (Sylvanias) are now in my T-4X ).
All of the pair were "matched" by the vendors.

I'm beginning to reluctantly think about doing the 6146
conversion.  I hate to modify a nice rig, but expense of
buying non-performing sweep tubes is becoming an issue for
me.  Have folks found the 6146 to be less problematic than
the 6JB

Re: [Drakelist] experience with TR-7 CW filter

[Mike Williams]

I use the 500 Hz filter and it is more than adequate;  Inrad makes excellent 
products.



73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF




- Original Message - 
From: "john" 
To: "Dennis Monticelli" ; 


Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] experience with TR-7 CW filter


I've got the 400hz InRad (I think that's it) and it's quite narrow. I 
can't imagine needing more narrow than that.


I note no excessive loss with the 400hz Inrad or the 500hz Drake...

John K5MO



At 02:06 PM 8/10/2009, Dennis Monticelli wrote:
I am considering buying a 300Hz filter for the TR7 and wonder if any of 
you guys out there have experience with that narrow filter.  Does it ring 
excessively or have excessive insertion loss?  Also, would you recommend 
an new InRad filter rather than a used Drake original filter?


Dennis  AE6C
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Re: [Drakelist] My TR-7 Has lost its mind

[Mike]

Every error I encountered,  (committed) in this process has been covered by 
Gary,  (Jim)  ...slowly go where the other  TR-7 owners have gone before! 
Good luck


73 de W4DLMike
Pompano Beach, FL USA





- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: "drakel...@.zerobeat.net" 
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] My TR-7 Has lost its mind



On Sun, 05 Jul 2009 06:49:17 -0700, GrampZ wrote:



Here is a copy of a post I saved on this subject by Garey, K4OAH.



I'll add a couple of things to Garey's superb DR7 instructions:

A standard PC slot cover works great as a card puller for the DR7.

There is a grommet on the coax and the bandswitch wire. As you pull the 
coax
out of the grommet, unplug the bandswitch wire and tie it in a loose knot 
to

keep the grommet with the DR7. Otherwise, you WILL lose it. Been there.

Mark the hole for the coax on the DR7 with a Sharpie or similar marker. 
It's
easy to get the coax back through the wrong hole, and you won't notice 
until

you get the DR7 halfway re-installed. Been there also.

Grab and antistat bag from an old PC motherboard (your friendly 
neighborhood
clone shop should have a ton of them) to lay the DR7 on while it is out of 
the

radio. If you're truly static-paranoid, put it IN the bag.

Use reasonable ESD protection practices; no need for a ground strap on 
your

body, but don't pet the cat before touching a board.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and 
he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] T4XC RF output

[Mike Williams]

Well, the T4XC is back;  the low output power was due to a power supply 
ripple on the HV and screen rails . I tuned the low output signal on another 
receiver and the ripple modulated problem was quite evident.  Fortunately, I 
still had the AC-4 rebuild kit from the Heathkit shop which I purchased from 
Mike at Dayton in 2007!  (lucky for me the HV went before the bias!)  I 
installed it this morning and the problem is solved.  The finals are still a 
bit soft as I can manage about 100 watts output on most bands, so I'll keep 
my eyes open for a new set of 6JB6's.  Many thanks to Gary and all the tips 
on keeping the Drake's percolating.  See you on the bands,




73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF

PS:  Terry, no need to sent the tubes..thanks. 



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Re: [Drakelist] T4XC RF output

[Mike Williams]

Hello Gary,

thanks for the tips and the tube is a 6AU6A, not a 6UA8, my typo;  I checked 
R44, R53, R54, and R59 and all ohm out OK; CR19 also is OK by an in circuit 
diode check.  Did not see anything obvious while scanning the circuitry, the 
T4XC was putting out around 90 watts on all bands prior to the sudden drop 
of output down to 30 watts.




73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF 



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[Drakelist] T4XC RF output

[Mike Williams]

The station's T4XC will not put out more than 30 watts on 80 through 20 meters 
and slightly less on 10 meters.  All DC voltages check out and I have 
substituted all the tubes with the exception of the finals and the 6AU8 mixer 
with the same results;  everything is pointing to soft 6JB6's.  Any comments 
from the Drake crew?

Thanks a bunch,


73 de W4DL   Mike
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake PS7 minor ?

[Mike Williams]

Like yours..kind of a dull, drab, greenish black
works great!


73 de W4DL   Mike
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Re: [Drakelist] Fluke DMM Suggestion

[Mike Bryce]

Just wondering why not get another heathkit VTVM?

even on ebay, they're not that expensive, but be sure you get the  
probe...


I prefer the bench style as it is easier to read than the portable one  
on my eyes


you just can't beat the VTVM for working on this old stuff. Most of  
the voltage readings were made with a VTVM at the factory


mike

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large  
number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced





On Mar 22, 2009, at 9:39 AM, Richard Bell wrote:

I am shopping for a Fluke DMM to replace my tried and true (but given  
away – don’t ask!) Heahtkit VTVM.  Suggestions welcomed and please not  
some $500 lab grade instrument.


Not looking to purchase one as much as I’m searching for a  
recommendation.


73, W5BXE
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[Drakelist] R4C BFO

[Mike Williams]

I turned on the R4C to discover that audio was only being output in the AM 
mode.  The trouble turned out to be the BFO device, Q5, an NPN device 2N3394.  
I replaced it with a 2NA and we're back in business.  I have not seen this 
failure posted on the Drakelist so thought I'd drop it in here.  The transistor 
was open between all junctions.



73 de W4DL   Mike
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Re: [Drakelist] REAL Drake Blue......

[Mike]

This is the Drake list equivalent of "manna from heaven"!

73 de W4DLMike
Pompano Beach, FL USA


- Original Message - 
From: "Garey Barrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 5:44 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] REAL Drake Blue..



To the rest of the Luddites out there -

I know you're out there, I can hear you breathing

Jim and Don have done really nice work with LEDs, and it's a very nice 
blue, but it's not "Real Blue"  !!  :-)


I finally got some time to work out something that has been bothering me 
for a while.  The Drake "Blue" tends to go green with age, resulting in 
a not-so-pretty blue-green dial.  There have been various theories / 
excuses for this, usually revolving around the fact that incandescent 
bulbs such as the #47 and #755 have a "yellowish" cast to them.  Well, 
they really don't, unless you have extremely low line voltage.


The reason appears to be that the "white" paint on the reflectors of the 
dial and meter housing tends to yellow with age, and this is where the 
"tint" is coming from.  When the blue film fades a little bit, 
(difficult to see unless you put it on a sheet of white paper,) the 
yellow overpowers it and  _blue-green_  dials...


So.   One can of Testor's Flat White spray enamel from the Hobby shop, a 
quick spray, a new piece of Lee Lighting #172 "Lagoon Blue", and the 
dial and meter have that beautiful, "Real Blue" glow.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Mic Jack

[Mike Williams]

Hey Lee; how do you really feel about it?  I like the can opener idea!


73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF
  - Original Message - 
  From: LEE BAHR 
  To: Jim Shorney ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 11:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Mic Jack


  Yes, others have done it, (1/4 inch jack), and when I acquired the radios, I 
  put the original size jack back into the radio.  The smaller size plugs are 
  so easy to find/buy as they are used in aircraft, so I can't understand why 
  someone would screw up a vintage radio like this with such a modification. 
  (Why not go to the hardware store and buy/install a wall outlet jack on the 
  radio as a mic jack as they are really easy to obtain).  A can opener will 
  "widen the hole for you".  While one is at it, paint it "pink too".  That 
  will give it a really nice "touch".

  Lee, w0vt 


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RE: [drakelist] Touch Paddle Electronic Keyers....

[Mike D.]

Philip,
 
The website says their model P1W, with built in keyer, will only key
positive voltage transistorized transceivers. However, if you already have a
keyer that works with your Drake, you should be able to use their model
P1PADW paddles with your keyer. This model acts as paddles only and not a
keyer. 
 
As for reviews,  their website has a link to eHam for user reviews of their
products. I'd like to try one myself.

73 de Mike, N9BOR
A-1, FISTS, JARL A-1, SMC
http://www.n9bor.us <http://www.n9bor.us/> 
http://www.k9ya.org <http://www.k9ya.org/> 

di dah dit - The only Roger Beep you'll ever need.
Let your fingers do the talking - Morse code.
My designated driver is a 12BY7A. 

 


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Philip Grocki
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 2:55 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [drakelist] Touch Paddle Electronic Keyers


Does anyone know if the TouchPaddle.com keyers will work with Drake "tube"
transceivers?  Are these keyers worth their cost in quality and endurance?
Thank you.
 
 
PHILIP
 
AB8ZP

Re: [drakelist] Vintage "Unused" R-4B on eBay

[Mike Manship]

Mike Manship <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

> --
>
> That great looking, unused, in perfect condition R-4B (the one that
> looked like it had been dragged behind an old Chevy, sold for
> $112.50.  Wonder if anybody on the list bought it?  Would be an
> interesting piece to follow thru restoration
>
I hope she threw in a pair of vise-grips to use as a bandswitch.

73 de Mike W9OJ


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Re: [drakelist] TR7 oscillation

[Mike Williams]

Nice work Jim; this one is going into the "Drake List Items by E-mail" folder !


73 de W4DL   Mike
ex AK7P * WA9SWF * WN9SWF

Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

[Mike Bryce]

Mike Bryce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
let a heathkit collector pop in here for a second...

the use of a 1/4" stereo plug is not a good idea either. the original  
plug had a really wide band between the tip and ring.



Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a  
large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced




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Re: [drakelist] T-4X: No Audio On SSB / AM CONCLUSION

[Mike Bryce]

I find that after I get a really nasty problem fixed, it's a case of  
the warm and fuzzies for a few days..


Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a  
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Re: [drakelist] Question

[Mike Bryce]

I don't own a toyota

never had... never willl

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a  
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On Jul 4, 2008, at 2:15 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Mike, WB8VGE
Um Hmmm, a Jeep grille on his emails and yet he drives a  
Toyotatch tch.

Hi Mike, Carl Hibbard



Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used  
cars.

Re: [drakelist] Question

[Mike Bryce]

Resting up from last weekend!

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o
Note: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a  
large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced



On Jul 4, 2008, at 12:54 PM, Richard Bell wrote:

I have the venerable B Line running an I’m hearing about nothing on  
20 except for a couple of QSO’s around 14.051.   Last weekend you  
couldn’t find a vacant spot on 20 (I know Filed Day).


So where is everyone?

W5BXE  (unamplified mikes only)