My daughter has requested that all of her wedding party, including the mothers
of the bride and groom, wear black. The mothers will also be wearing tiaras.
Carmen
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 27, 2016, at 11:06 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
>
> Actually, a dear friend of mine's mother-in-law
Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if
this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed
to make it HA?
Thanks,
Carmen
On 2/26/2015 11:25 PM, Sybella wrote:
Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions
I've found beeswax on some old ribbons for the same purpose.
Carmen
On 4/29/2014 6:24 AM, Robin Netherton wrote:
I don't know about Regency, but in many periods, gum arabic was used
as a fray preventive liquid, like Fray-Check. You can get it at art
stores that sell painting supplies.
That won't work on silk, it just burns.
Carmen
On 4/29/2014 6:57 AM, Becky Rautine wrote:
I burn the edges of 45degree cuts. Not burn to the point of BURNT showing. Just
melted. I use a candle with smokeless wick, hold the ribbon above the flame and
approach the flame until it melts but not
I've had good luck using lemon juice.
Carmen
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 29, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get mildew stains out of white
cotton? I have a favorite white cotton (or maybe linen and cotton)
Victorian
I have pictures (somewhere) of my great-grandmother working on the farm
in pants. I also seem to remember that when my grandmother was very
small and left out to herd the sheep, that she wore boy's clothes. I,
of course, was more shocked to learn that an eight-year-old would be
left alone
On 1/29/2013 9:50 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:
All who have expressed interest here so far are on the list ;) and I promise to
keep h-cost updated as well.
Astrida
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On 1/15/2013 7:54 PM, Suzanne wrote:
Here's an odd question: How long does cotton or silk sewing thread last?
At work today, we found an old cigar box full of Belding Corticelli thread that probably
dates back to the early 1950s. (The small spools of cotton were priced at 15 cents and
the
The only black Victorian underwear I've seen, besides corsets, was made
of silk, and judging by the trimming, certainly wasn't for mourning.
Melusine
From: penn...@costumegallery.com penn...@costumegallery.com If a
woman is in mourning during the 1860s, were her underpinnings black?
Penny
On 1/18/2012 6:22 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
penny,? as you know, I am away from home and my referrences, but Cunnington has
severel citations about underwear in general and?I think at least one I have
seen re mourning.? Since (fashionable) women were just beginning to wear
drawers and with
.. http://bugscom.net/life.html?oshowtopic=f4hu5
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The Wicker Lady is wearing antique 1880's bustle and corset, Yasmine is
wearing the Haida blanket-inspired coat that was part of my final
project for my sculpture class last spring, the borrowed form that
belongs to my daughter is wearing an Elizabethan coat that I'm hemming
for a customer,
. http://osakasushinj.com/dfijleoiw.html?yhotmailID=17if0
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.. http://www.baranyimaria.hu/fxizyrjvs4.html?bCID=78af
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She's not only very knowlegeble, but she's one of the authorities on
both shoes and working class clothing in America. I think she did the
best she could with a monumental task.
It looks and sounds like you need an off-site storage and workroom for
the clothing collection. Any chance of
There's pictures of them in Mode e Firenze (known around here as the
Elenor of Toledo book), and I believe one of the Spanish museums has a
couple dating from the early 16th cen.
Carmen
On 9/15/2011 12:41 PM, fastusminimus wrote:
Hi
When did the tie on pockets come into use? i know they are
I can't help you get an appt. at the Costume Institute, but I got to
examine two Fortuny gowns, one with sleeves, at the Museum of History
and Industry (MOHAI) in Seattle earlier this year and can share my notes
with you. The construction is really interesting.
Contact me off-list and put
Look for beach costume or seaside dress. I know I've seen some of
those in the fashion magazines.
Carmen
On 7/4/2011 9:58 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote:
IIRC, 1879-80 is sort of between bustle periods. What would a young English lady living on the
coast of Cornwall be wearing? I will be
Are you kidding? They're in style now.
Melusine
On 2/14/2011 1:22 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote:
Oh dear! I guess I should hang onto those crocheted minidresses from my high
school college years, then. They just might be worth something someday soon.
Ginni
Sacramento, CA
ECHS '68
The Folkwear vest pattern is one of my standards. I've made it for
women, men, young, old, small, large and, with a bit of futzing, sized
up to xxx-large. The only caveat I have is that the wearer either needs
to wear their pants higher than modern standard (easy if you're wearing
Victorian
Right now, the wicker lady is stark naked and Yasmine is wearing an
antique 1880's corset and bustle left over from my last class on
Victorian undies. I'm hoping to get her stripped down over the holiday
break and get started on the Octopus corset.
Melusine
On 12/3/2010 9:17 AM, Cin wrote:
It's petersham. It looks like grosgrain ribbon, but the edges have little
bumps instead of being perfectly smooth. I get mine here:
http://www.jkmribbon.com/Store/catalog/petersham-rayon-grosgr,177.htm
Melusine
-Original Message-
From: Janyce Engan vpll.librar...@gmail.com
Sent: Oct
Shipwreck Beads carries them. Do a search for them.
Melusine
- Original Message -
From: Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net
To: thecostumersmanife...@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2010 2:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] finding bolo tips
Get yourself a copy of The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Theresa
de Dillmont. I don't know who's publishing it now, but it was published by
DMC and it's never been out of print since the mid-19th century. In the
Plain Sewing chapter, there is a section on openwork seams, with
- Original Message -
From: Kathryn Pinner pinn...@mccc.edu
Subject: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and
tacking linings in place, but never knew the name bride, and also never
thought to use it as a
That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of
side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs?
Kate
Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress
on that seam, but certainly on the side slits.
Carmen
In Costume Close Up by Linda Baumgarten John Watson on page 107
describing a late 18th century shirt neck opening, the authors state A
buttonhole-stitched bride is worked at the point to reinforce the slashed
opening. The bride appears to be a later replacement.
I have never heard of the
Thanks. Where might I find an image?
http://www.monstonitrus.org/a_and_s/needlelace/needlelace.html
Carmen
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Oh, me too! I'm not going until next year, but I still want to start
planning out my must-sees.
Melusine
- Original Message -
From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] London
I would venture that handwashing the trousers in cold water would cause no
damage, especially since the owner is willing to press/starch as needed.
Denise B
As long as the trousers are kept out of the dryer, they should be fine
UNLESS they are very heavily interfaced. The reason one doesn't
I'm working on a 1530's man's german renn outfit, but it's going slowly
since I've got just 10 days until finals.
Melusine
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A while back, and I don't remember whether it was last year or before, someone
posted a link to a job application for the position of Head of Costuming at
Williamsburg. I need to find out when that was, and I can't find it by
searching the archives.
Can anyone help me out?
Thanks,
Melusine
Mine's wearing three fancy brocade table runners that will grow up to be a
Victorian inspired jacket as soon as my current commisions are done.
Melusine
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From: Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net
I had some white peacock feathers at one time. I suspect they
were bleached. The gold section was still metallic looking and
another part was pinkish, with the rest being a cream color. They
would have made quite an impressive dress, too.
There
Right now nothing, as I'm in the process of reworking the sewing room, but
the wicker lady hanging from the ceiling has on a 1889 black silk Belgian
corset. As soon as I get rework done (last set of shelves to be made
tomorrow!) I have 2 17th cen. petticoats to have done before the first of
I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer
attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size buttons.
Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and I'm wondering,
has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period corsets and bodices?
I have a
I costume an opera singer and so far she hasn't had any trouble singing in
any of the corset styles I've made for her, and I haven't done them any
differently that I would for anyone else. In fact, she says that it's
easier to sing in a well-fitted corset, as it adds support.
Melusine
Thanks for sharing your experience. Just for my imagination: what
bust-waist-hip reduction would you choose in this case? (Ho many cm
smaller?)
I usually make the bust about 2cm smaller than the measured bust
circumference, the waist...up to 10cm smaller...and the hips - no
reduction.
Zuzana
I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta. Their prices are
excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.
Carmen
- Original Message -
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 5:06 AM
Dupion and Taffeta I can get here, at prices that
are higher, but don't involve shipping from the
U.S. and the resultant customs duty on goods over
£25.00. I can also get silk/rayon velvet at a
similar price, but 100% silk is way more expensive which is why I was
asking.
Suzi
I haven't had a
On Jan 14, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta. Their prices are
excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.
What weight is the taffeta? Is it lining weight, or is it the heavier
sort?
Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
I
- Original Message -
From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk
snip
Thanks, but as this is a slightly jokey dress-up for a party type evening,
I don't really need to go into too much detail. I did find a lovely
picture of Louis Capet (Louis XVl) wearing one,
Happy New Year to all.
I am being lazy, and asking for help before doing any research. My DH and
I will be going to a fancy dress do (emphasis on not entirely accurate) as
M. and Mme Thenardier from Les Mis. Mostly I can cobble together
costumes from other stuff we have, but I would love
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
snip
Today I was reading a book by the author that turned me onto this film in
the first place; the (fiction) book talks about the prior theater
production in the Hollywood Bowl, and mentions fairies in cellophane.
In her Acknowledgments she cites help from the
While I haven't encountered it in making something, I have heard of
problems with fibromyalgia (if I spelled that right!) and similar
pain problems. Torso surgery or injury that, even after healing, can
leave a person with sensitive areas. And, of course, people who wish
to participate in
Right now she's wearing a purple and black 1900 summer walking suit, with a
pair of mens 1635 breeches in green brocade thrown over top of everything to
keep them out of the way.
Melusine
- Original Message -
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday,
Hi folks,
I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests. I've
got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing
the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the
others. I've made this vest before, and I can
Hi folks,
I'm in the middle of making several of Folkwear's #222, vintage vests. I've
got them all cut out and the front pockets set, only to find that I'm missing
the directions to the view I'm making, and its collar is not the same as the
others. I've made this vest before, and I can
Don't you just hate that!!!
It happens too often when I get patterns from eBay. From now on its going
to
be in my standard list of questions when buying patterns.
Sidney
I bought this one new, I've just used it a lot and can't remember where I
might have put the rest of the
About how many costume/fashion related books or magazines do you own?
Somewhere around 500, more if you count the art books, but they're packed
right now.
What was the first one you purchased? Where did you purchase it?
Payne's History of Costume. I didn't purchase it, my high school
Just thought I'd mention, Fashion Fabrics Club has silk taffeta for $9.95 yd.
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/Catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk+taffeta+9.95
Melusine
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Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything
about this book?
Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul
Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover)
by Aileen Ribeiro
Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book?
Does anyone have an online source of images of masque costume from about
1580-1620? I already found a good page here http://tinyurl.com/25y7cz
which gives me a great start, but any other images would be a great help.
Thanks.
Suzi
This page has most of the on-line images that I found. I
Hi there,
I am thinking about finally getting a dressmaker's form for myself, but I
am not sure which type I should get. Here is the dilemma, I am a woman of
ample size (US size 26-28). My hope is, as always, to drop some or a lot
of weight, but if I waited to get dressform until I was
(snip)
Query 2: Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used
so that I can better visualize them? I do okay with only written
descriptions, but examples I can see work much better. I have some long
lengths of white gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel
Right now Yasmine's naked, but there's two commissions that she'll be
alternately wearing probably by the end of the week.
First one is a 1630-ish dress jacket and overskirt out of a cloth-of-silver
brocade and bottle green and pale gold brocade sleeves and stomacher. I
don't technically
I just recieved the first issue of the new Victoria magazine, and there's an
article devoted to Tasha Tudor's antique clothing collection. Very pretty,
mostly early 19th century dresses and jewelry.
Melusine
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My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and shirts
for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was still in the
Air Force.
Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his uniforms had to be
replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool
I just gave away the last bits of Air Force wool from my dad's uniforms.
He retired in 1974. I remember my mother and I both having suits made
from that wool.
Melusine
Jeeze, I hope you kept the patches and insignia, I have boxes of the
things.
One day, one day...
-C.
No, what I had
My dummy is currently naked, because the pink and black flamenco dress is
finally done and delivered to the customer. It's a gorgeous dress, with a
black taffeta bodice embroidered with shaded pink flowering vines, and the
ruffled sleeves and skirt ruffles done in alternating light and dark
Subject: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen.
Hi,
Its ben a while since i ironed my linnen shirt, and considering that i
have to iron some fine linnen cambric i have washed and tumbled.
Wich way is the best to iron it?
Should i wet it a little and let it get damped for a while before i iron
it,
8 platform shoes,
-C.
Oh my word! How on earth did you walk in them?
High heels are such a foreign concept to me. I've been singing my whole
life, and singers should never wear a heel over an inch high (throws off
your balance, which throws off your breathing). But then, being 5'9, I
never
I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an
interesting question.
What would be your dream costume?
If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise.
Well, I tend to make my dream costumes. My good friends and family bought
the materials for my Laureling gown:
2 months is an impressively short amount of time for such a project!
I get the sense from messages I have read that most folks on this list do
not make/study/write about historical clothing for a living. Is this
true?
If so, what do you all do to fund your need to build historical clothing?
It looks like there's a good chance that within the year, I'll be moving
to the Seattle area. Is there anything out there of interest to h-cost type
folks? -E House, dreading packing and planning to start EARLY this
time...
It depends on what period you're looking for. European history
I think that any hat that is felted is so densely felted together that it
is very durable. I don't know of any solution that makes a hat stiff. Must
be one though.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine
You can use hide glue to stiffen felt or buckram. Hatmakers also use
thinned shelac to stiffen and
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting
Well for one, a man would not hold his thang like that to pee.
No, but an artist would certainly paint it that way if he wanted to show
the act, but not the anatomy.
Denise
I've also seen men holding themselves exactly like that when
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting
Another note,
The young gentleman in the foreground, dressed in yellow - is he wearing
womens shoes or is it his own?
Just that i se a big difference for the other gentlemans shoes, and the
yellow gentlemans shoes, looks very like the maids
I've sent my contact the images already cited as proof-of-concept for
Tudor period, and the information posted here that there were stitches
that could be reversible. That's a good start, but for publication
purposes she needs a published source on the stitch types for that period
(as seen in
To my knowledge -- and blackwork isn't my thing -- blackwork is
later than 1400. There are more knowledgeable folks on this list than
I in that respect.
susan
There is a form called Assisi work, uses the same stitches as blackwork, but
was often worked in red, and I believe there's extant
Y'all must read/hear/see stuff in places I don't, or something... Where,
exactly, do people go on and on about the historical accuracy of
costumes or content in cinematic movies?
If we're talking about The Tudors, the Showtime (or HBO, can't keep them
straight) program guide.
And why do
Frankly, I thinking working with fabrics in authentic widths would be a
blast. But then, I'm here more for the historical/reenactment end of
things. And if I ever win the lottery (not that I play, mind you,
but),
then porsches be darned, I'm getting some of those exquisite silk velvets
This reminds me of...
One thing I am sure of is that the armseye of the upper garments will not
be as high as the originals nor the bottoms as capacious . These would
grace any stage quite nicely. Owning originals that are Not comfortable
for actual modern wear, in a
On May 2, 2007, at 5:54 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
This reminds me of...
One thing I am sure of is that the armseye of the upper garments will not
be as high as the originals nor the bottoms as capacious . These would
grace any stage quite nicely.
That sounds like a veiled insult to
(snip about percieved insult to theatrical designers)
You didn't? Am I just being overly sensitive? I often feel like
historical re-enactors and reproducers of accurate historical costumes
look down their noses to a certain extent at theatrical costume designers
because the latter don't
I didn't either. As both a historian and a costume designer, I see no
reason to be embarrassed about the very good reasons why accuracy is
often compromised on the stage. I still groan when I watch films with
terribly bastardized fashions, but I can often tell why they did it.
Telling
I didn't go so far as to read the instructions. Alas...
Presently working in miniature, I struggle nightly in trying to create my
doll costumes using all the pieces that would have made the shapes if I
were doing them for people; it is hard indeed to compromise, but I have
not yet bent to
Chuckle...And I bet you didn't try to enter that one in a contest?
Except, perhaps And how many Zippers did you manage to get in on this
one?
Makes me think of the first time I remember the leather store on the board
walk of Provincetown !!
Kathleen
Nope, and you couldn't see the zippers
From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
She wrote a book, too, Geisha, By Liza Dalby
ISBN #0-394-72893-9. Mine was published by Vintage Books, division of Random
House, in 1985.
Originally published Berkeley: University of California Press 1983
Yep, I've got that one, also the book she
(snip about sewing birds and other clamp-type things)
I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it
looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings. A
couple of examples:
http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm scroll down to 'The
Needlewoman'
Sewing birds? Anyone have a pic they would like to share? :-)
Arlys
Here's the one(s) I have.2 different people gave them to me for Yule.
http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php
Melusine
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Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing today?
I just love starting this thread... such interesting answers.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
Right now Yasmine's completely naked! I just removed the
burgundy/gold/black 1625 French Cavalier dress that I've been renovating for
a client
On Fri, 27 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote:
Trim off any fraying edges. Take the edge of the fabric between your
thumb and finger and try and roll it into a narrow hem. Curse. Snip
off any frayed bits you caused. Take tiny stitches with the other
hand. Repeat.
I'll confess this is how I've always done
From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on the front of the
pattern, the armseye seems too large. If you look at the pics of Helen
Mirren in these gowns, the sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a
more period look, but maybe is not so
It's called Canadian smocking.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
It goes by other names as well, as this page will tell you. It is incredibly
consumptive but its well worth it. It took me a good couple of hours to
grasp how it's done; I am left handed and have to mentally invert
Carmen Beaudry wrote:
http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html This looks like the back of
lattice smocking.
That's not a valid link. Do you recall the title and artist?
Dawn
sightry this one: http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
Portrait of Lucrezia Panciatichi by Bronzino
Melusine
The fashion definitely started in the '60's, part of the hippie Native
American stuff. (snip)
Here's some pics from Woodstock, 1969, both Jimi Hendrix and Roger Daltrey
are wearing fringed outfits.
http://www.woodstock69.com/file6.htm
I grew up in the San Francisco Bay area and I seem to
Melusine,
Thank you so much for the link. Those are the jackets in the videos I saw
on The Tube.
Penny Ladnier,
You're welcome, I've been enjoying the trip down memory lane. I was a
little young to be directly involved in the Summer of Love, but I remember
what San Francisco was like in
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nanban trader...
My first question, of course, is: what would they wear? I can find tons
of information on Spain for these years (and gorgeous outfits too), but
nothing on Portugal. Well... yes and no. Royalty seems to be
interchangeable between Spain and Portugal at
http://www.jessamynscloset.com/homepage.html
A bunch of images and info about Spanish and Portugese costume.
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- Original Message -
From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help finding an article?
I have it. It's not a very good copy, but I do have it. Do you still need
it?
Melanie
I recieved a lovely album of baroque lute music, which I have yet to have
time to play. This is wonderful, for I am always looking for music from my
favorite period (early 17th cen.).
Melusine
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At 18:58 06/12/2006, you wrote:
If you're talking about the shirts book, I kind of do. It's still hung up
in legal issues - estate, copyright, permissions... the typical yadda
yadda for publishing a book of this nature. It happens that my research
crosses over hers, a couple of the shirts in
At 18:58 01/12/2006, you wrote:
It's that oh so fashionable time of the year. Holiday parties, gifts,
theater season, formal dress of all eras. Maybe even a New Years Eve
ensemble What are you working on?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mine is wearing padding, a shift, corset and pink
Here's a couple of links. I've bought from Junonia before and their quality
is good.
http://www.junonia.com/subDepartment-5-Swimwear.htm
Very curious and interesting! Thanks for sharing. The only other
asymmetrical men's doublets that come to mind are from much earlier, like
the Barthel Beham scorekeeper from 1529.
What about this one:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/ElizabethKnollys.jpg
I've always wondered where it closes.
There are lots of 80's movies that could be rented depending on her age.
ah, of course! but it wouldn't be a true school project if you let mom
know more than 12 hours ahead of time what you require. The library is
closed and there isn't a movie rental place within a half-hour's drive.
Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France? I'm going to be
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
questions.
thanks,
Melusine
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] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 3:47 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Paris, France
Does anyone on the list live in or about Paris, France? I'm going to be
visiting from the 14th to the 23rd of Sept., and would like to ask a few
Snip
Though I do have a question, hopefully someone where has studied the art
of
making stays; why is it that before the 19thC strips of baleen used for
the
bulk of stays were so incredibly narrow? I'm sure you get more flexibility
with it but still have a very supportive garment. But is the
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