YEP That is how they work.
You can see one in action next weekend. (5 days ending on Labor Day) at
Midwest Old Settlers and Threshers Association annual reunion in Mt.
Pleasant IA. Allow at least 2 days if you go. It was called the
greatest steam show on earth 50 years ago, and probably s
I've had the opportunity to watch a good shingle mill in action belted to a
Farmall Super MD. I forget exactly but the sawblade was probably 20-24" in
diameter. The cool thing about this one is that it automatically advanced the
wood for the next cut. I *think* it alternated cuts so the wood st
On 22/08/2019 2:14 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Shingle mill is just a horizontal sawmill with shorter bolts. Oh,
and thick and thin is desired, not the product of a wornout mill and a
mediocre sawyer. THe old guy who sawed most of my logs was a good
sawyer with a worn out mill.
Shingle mill is just a horizontal sawmill with shorter bolts. Oh, and
thick and thin is desired, not the product of a wornout mill and a
mediocre sawyer. THe old guy who sawed most of my logs was a good
sawyer with a worn out mill.
Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote on 8/21/19 3:35 PM:
On 2
i'd guess the regular poulan is junk. never had one, but that is the
reputation. The poulan pro are ok for home farm use in my experience.
Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote on 8/20/19 12:02 PM:
A few years ago I bought a regular poulan the yellow one. It was a turd and I
wore myself out jus
On 21/08/2019 3:16 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
Yep, it's a real lesson in the power of centrifugal force multiplied by
speed.
Sounds like you Dad had it all dialed in. My Grandfather was the one who
got me to doing it. He had "Skills" that few had, in a bunch of old school
things.
Yes, my fath
Yep, it's a real lesson in the power of centrifugal force multiplied by
speed.
Sounds like you Dad had it all dialed in. My Grandfather was the one who
got me to doing it. He had "Skills" that few had, in a bunch of old school
things.
On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 1:01 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
me
On 21/08/2019 2:47 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
Yes, the teeth are replaceable, takes a special tool and practice to set
the new or old teeth so they run to make a clean cut with the correct tooth
pitch and sequence. Then, after sharpening each tooth, you have to set them
all to the same height
Yes, the teeth are replaceable, takes a special tool and practice to set
the new or old teeth so they run to make a clean cut with the correct tooth
pitch and sequence. Then, after sharpening each tooth, you have to set them
all to the same height so the saw cuts correctly. On an 80 inch blade,
you
On 21/08/2019 1:16 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
I think I may be one of the few left that still know how to sharpen and set
the teeth in a round blade mill... I'll have to add a line in my CV to
include that.. ha..
Were they replaceable teeth?
___
http://w
Thanks for your interest and sharing your family saw mill history.
The family mill ran for 5 generations in the SW Missouri hardwood region.
Started out as a water wheel powered mill, why back when that was the only
power available,
Early business also included a grist mill operation to grind flour
What sort of sawmill did your family have?
My father had a small mill and I worked in it as soon as I was big
enough to do so (about 60 years ago). Initially, I set the second dog on
the carriage and then later was the guy who picked the boards off as
they went through the saw (tail sawyer).
>From experience, I agree with Mitch on direction of file motion.
To hand file well, you need to have a good mental picture of the "perfect
cutting edge" . When you have that, your hand/file motion will follow to
achieve that perfect edge.
Leaving a file burr on the cutting edge is not good, if you
There's a microscopic bent ridge of metal at the downstream edge of the filing
motion.
I like to have it on the trailing edge, some people like to have it on the
leading edge hoping it'll wear off quickly, some people like you don't care.
But I figure it's important to make every aspect possibl
I got one of their super cheap 4 1/2" grinders and one of the 6". I think
they're the same motor inside, the 6" is under powered but both have been
troopers and done a surprising amount of work.
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 6:48 AM, OK Don via Mercedes
wrote
I agree with everything Mitch wrote. Additionally a file with a guide can help
us newbies.I'd been told that it didn't matter if you went front to back on the
teeth or back to front. I think that's probably true as long as you always do
it the same way...
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
It might be the same tool, but for $10, I'll stick with the one that was
reviewed. My experience with Harbor Freight electric tools has not been
good overall.
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 5:11 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> How about Harbor Freight?
>
> https://www.h
Count your file strokes.
Hit a tooth with a Sharpie marker so you know when you've finished the chain
and gotten back to the beginning.
2-3 strokes per tooth is plenty if you sharpen after each tank of gas and keep
it out of the dirt.
Hole the file parallel to the witness mark on the tooth, gi
On 20/08/2019 5:07 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
Yes, I've been using a hand file - not that successfully it seems though.
The best grinder in that review is the price of 10 new chains, I'll pass.
The next best is $41 - I'll get it and try it - has to be better than what
I've been doing.
The har
Yes, I've been using a hand file - not that successfully it seems though.
The best grinder in that review is the price of 10 new chains, I'll pass.
The next best is $41 - I'll get it and try it - has to be better than what
I've been doing.
The hard red center in the cedar logs seems to be hard on c
Yes, we do them by hand too some of the time, but if you use the
grinder periodically, it will even out the teeth. I keep 2 or 3 chains
and swap them out. If you use the grinder to do all of them at one time
it is fairly quick to sharpen them. It is truly amazing how well a sharp
saw can cut c
My personal choice is a proper size round file with a handle. Having
developed the skill to sharpen the teeth, for myself, it is much quicker to
dress the teeth and get back to work... no setup or fuss.
5 min on a 20 inch saw, I'm back to cutting chips. You just have to learn
to hold the file angle
You need one of these -
https://www.2kreviews.com/best-chainsaw-sharpener/
It makes it easy to keep all of the teeth on the chain essentially the
same. That is much more difficult to do when filing by hand.
On 20/08/2019 4:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
I now have a new bar, two new chai
I now have a new bar, two new chains, the proper file, and the greaser for
the sprocket at the end of the bar. Will test it tomorrow ...
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 11:20 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> A bent bar will also cut in circles. It's not hard to bend them if t
You may be correct... as is often with corporate mergers,, cheap and good
do not survive in same environment.
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 11:59 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> On 20/08/2019 1:45 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > Poulan is actually made by Husky.. it'
On 20/08/2019 1:45 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
Poulan is actually made by Husky.. it's their "Cheap version" I have
one that someone gave me because it would not run... so far, I've spent
enough to buy a new one, it runs... but then won't start.. then it will
run.. etc etc Known issues
Poulan is actually made by Husky.. it's their "Cheap version" I have
one that someone gave me because it would not run... so far, I've spent
enough to buy a new one, it runs... but then won't start.. then it will
run.. etc etc Known issues with them is they suck wood chips into the
lower cr
A few years ago I bought a regular poulan the yellow one. It was a turd and I
wore myself out just trying to start it. Took it back to Lowe’s and got the
green pro one. It has been great for my needs
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 20, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
G Mann via Mercedes wrote on 8/20/19 11:10 AM:
Huskysaws are "fragile" in my experience. So, you have to pay extra
attention to chain oiler, sharpness, etc... bad news is, "not fragilesaws
cost lots more" So, unless you are cutting oak logs every day... they
work good enough, if you give t
A bent bar will also cut in circles. It's not hard to bend them if the saw
gets pinched,
but it's hard to straighten them. It doesn't take much of a bend.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsub
Good to know the bar oil pump is making oil. It's likely the port in the
bar itself is plugged then... which is the kiss of death when cutting under
load.
Good plan to just start fresh. When you start it all back up, run the chain
above a piece of paper or cardboard and watch for oil sling, which
Chain sharpened unevenly. right side sharp. left dull. Hit a nail? Rock?
OK Don via Mercedes wrote on 8/19/19 6:13 PM:
Why does my low time Husqvarna chain saw want to twist the far end of the
bar/chain clockwise when I try to cut a log with it?
It also failed to oil the chain last time I tr
I second the comment on keeping your chain sharp, by looking at the chips
that come off the cut, When you start getting "Dust" instead of chips, stop
and sharpen the chain.
My experience with loss of chain oil is that you'll destroy the chain by
the time you notice it's running hot, AND the guide b
I checked - and yes, it is pumping oil out the port - I guess the bar was
clogged. It got smoking hot, so I'll replace it, even though I don't see
any wear.
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 10:06 AM OK Don wrote:
> The blade is not loose at all in the guide bar. I didn't see any blockage
> of the oil por
Greenworks 80 volt battery powered.
MG
Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
What's the best electric chain saw on the market?
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 3:30 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
I got one of the chainsaw files with a guide on it. It's very helpful for
b
The blade is not loose at all in the guide bar. I didn't see any blockage
of the oil port, but will run it without the bar as you suggest. I might
try to blow air back through the port.
I use a generic bar oil from the local farm store - it's thick and has
worked for a couple of other saws. I do ha
What's the best electric chain saw on the market?
On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 3:30 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I got one of the chainsaw files with a guide on it. It's very helpful for
> being sure the chain is sharpened at the right angle. A lot of guys will
> tell
I got one of the chainsaw files with a guide on it. It's very helpful for being
sure the chain is sharpened at the right angle. A lot of guys will tell you
they can "sharpen it by eye" and probably some of them can but I've seen a lot
of saws that try to cut in circles...
Curt
Sent from Yahoo
Twist: Chain not sharpened right or worn more on one set of teeth than the
other.
Probably should replace chain if old one wasn't oiled and maybe overheated.
Fix the oiler. Excess heat comes from dull chain.
Get the proper chain file if you don't have one.
If you watch pros they may shar
I've had my Husky for nearly as long as we've had our house, so 12 years I
think. It's cut many cords of wood. I did have to clean the carb after a bad
gas incident. I only use canned gas now. It's expensive but I only burn a quart
or two a year so it's worth it.
Dad bought a cheap Poulin to hav
I screwed around with a husq way too much, lost lots of time and money dealing
with it constantly. Gave up and bought a Stihl. No issues with it.
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Aug 19, 2019, at 9:27 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. Wit
I suspect your chain oiler has not worked for some time. With the chain
tension set "loose" move the chain in the guide bar, side to side, and
check for play. If the chain and bar have not been lubed as it should, the
guide slot and the chain drive lugs [part that tracks in the slot] will
quickly g
I have to be really careful when I sharpen the chain, I tend to make them want
to cut in circles which they really don't like.
My Husqvarna tends to leak out the oil when it gets warm. I try to make sure
its empty when I store it otherwise theres a puddle.
What saw do you have? I've got a 445 wh
Yeah, I've given the grandchildren a bunch, too. ;<)
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Andrew Strasfogel"
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Nothing better than to be born as Wilton
Nothing better than to be born as Wilton's grand kid, eh?
On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 3:28 PM, WILTON wrote:
> #1 son just came and cut several volunteer cherry laurels with an orange
> Husky that I gave 'im several years ago. 'Got it a Lowe's and used it only
> once or so before I gave it to 'im
#1 son just came and cut several volunteer cherry laurels with an orange
Husky that I gave 'im several years ago. 'Got it a Lowe's and used it only
once or so before I gave it to 'im.
Wilton
From: "Randy Bennell"
I have a Husquvarna (sp??) that I quite like. Got it at Lowe's in the
USA for
I have the blue one, an XL12 I think.
--R
On 5/13/13 3:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
We had a pair of old Homelite XL's that would not die.
A blue one that was probably bought around 1970 and then a red one
that was likely purchased around 1980.
___
http:/
Once again, I am coming in late.
I have a Husquvarna (sp??) that I quite like. Got it at Lowe's in the
USA for something over $200 a couple of years back.
Not the Rancher but the next one down.
Lighter, quieter and more powerful than what I was used to and probably
safer too.
We had a pair o
e protection is a vital component too as are chaps if
for not other reason than they protect you when you bull through the brush.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:31:36 -0500
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Message-ID
Must be the only thing.
Well, we also have cats in our house, but that's it as far as similarities, can
only be TWO things.
Oh wait, we both work for uncle Sam. That's got to be the last thing...
You know I suspect you also love our country.
I think this list of similarities is starting to
Just yesterday I noticed that Tractor Supply switched from Husqvarna
to Jonsered. AFAIK Jonsered makes good saws but doesn't have much
for name recognition, at least around here...
-Curt
Red Jonesies are popular in N WI where a lot of people heat with
wood. For my money I'd still buy st
I have one of those orange things from Lowes, once I get it running
it is pretty good. It takes a while to get started, might be the
crappy gas or something. I have a 45 or 50 yo Homelite XL that I
like but the pickup got goobered and I have not fixed it. It has no
safety features whatsoever
Hey Max - we finally agree on something! I am scared sh*tless of chain saws
and have always paid someone or used a high quality bow saw.
On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, "Max" wrote:
> I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise that
> you take all safety precautions very seriou
Max wrote:
I think the idea of the terrorist act was to cause damage at the saw mill if
the spike was hit by a blade.
Then they would have spiked them up high instead of where the loggers used their
chain saws.
Mitch
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new
Yep. A spike will raise holy hell with a sawmill. Imagine that big blade
exploding into hundreds of pieces! They use metal detectors and x-ray to
prevent that now.
Mike
On May 12, 2013 9:42 AM, "Max" wrote:
> I think the idea of the terrorist act was to cause damage at the saw mill
> if the s
I think the idea of the terrorist act was to cause damage at the saw mill if
the spike was hit by a blade.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Mitch Haley wrote:
>Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>> I suspect this is why the enviro-weenies spiked trees in the '80s,
>that might
Curt Raymond wrote:
I suspect this is why the enviro-weenies spiked trees in the '80s, that might
cause the chain to break but I agree as with most chains it should give loads
of advance warning before actually breaking.
I don't remember the exact mechanics involved, but the object of those
Curt Raymond wrote:
Just yesterday I noticed that Tractor Supply switched from Husqvarna to
Jonsered. AFAIK Jonsered makes good saws but doesn't have much for name
recognition, at least around here...
Husqvarna, Jonsered and Poulan went under the same ownership some time ago.
IIRC, Electrol
e actually breaking.
-Curt
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 03:43:34 -0400
From: Michael Canfield
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I would like to hear from someone that has actually witnessed a saw chai
When we moved into the house (just over 6 years ago) I bought a Husqvarna 445
(I think its a 445 anyway) which is (was) the top end of the homeowner line. It
uses the smaller chain and interestingly has a plastic bottom end which makes
it very light, mine has an 18" bar although it'll supposedly
David & Kristin Gilmore wrote:
I didn't know chain saws could be rented. That sounds like a good
way to learn about what you might want. Do wear ear muffs and safety
chaps. The rental people probably provide them with the saw.
Home Depot rented Dolmar/Makita 6400/6401 saws last I kne
On May 11, 2013, at 7:56 PM, "John Reames" wrote:
> You can probably get good used chains cheap from the rental places too...
I'm sure they get flogged harder than a rented mule...
Rick
Sent from my iPhone
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts
I've noticed the prices on new chains are almost as cheap has having them
re-sharpened. I have a retied guy near me that does mine, I think it's his
hobby, he only charges $5.
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:55 PM, John Reames wrote:
> You can probably get good used chains cheap from the rental places
Good advice, I like my Craftsman 18 inch. As said I drain the fuel out
during the winter and replace with a little sea foam, I'll crank it over to
get the fuel out of the lines and the sea foam in them ( alot of people do
the same with sta-bil, i just prefer the sea foam). as to renting, a chain
sa
You can probably get good used chains cheap from the rental places too...
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On May 11, 2013, at 19:52, David & Kristin Gilmore
wrote:
> At 09:25 PM 5/10/2013, Allan wrote:
>> I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided
At 09:25 PM 5/10/2013, Allan wrote:
I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained. I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.
Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
Don't really know much about them. I do
On May 10, 2013, at 8:26 PM, "Allan Streib" wrote:
> Don't really know much about them. I don't need anything
> lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either.
Stihl Farm boss
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms290/
Husqvarna Rancher
http://www.hus
Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 6:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
I have a sharpener I bought from Sears ages ago, a Dremel with a little
attachment to hold a proper-sized grinding stone (wh
I have a sharpener I bought from Sears ages ago, a Dremel with a little
attachment to hold a proper-sized grinding stone (whatever diameter for
your chain, about 1.5in long) at the proper place and with markings for
the proper angle. You can do a chain in just a few minutes with it.
Will make
Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Ritchey
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 10:26 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
Sounds like any 16-18 inch consumer-grade chainsaw will fit your need.
You'll find several types at Walm
g, and don't hesitate to do it again, if you think
> somebody is in trouble. Thank you."
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Tim Crone"
> To: "Mercedes List"
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 12:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
uot;I'm OK - just trying to clear an obstruction
under the deck - I'm OK, but thank you for your concern. You did the right
thing, and don't hesitate to do it again, if you think somebody is in
trouble. Thank you."
Wilton
----- Original Message -
From: "Tim Crone&
On May 10, 2013 9:26 PM, "Allan Streib" wrote:
>
> Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
For intermittent use, electric makes a lot of sense. Maintenance is
easier, safety is easier (pull the plug), much lighter to carry and wield.
I've used as much as 200' of 12
I have one of those orange things from Lowes, once I get it running it
is pretty good. It takes a while to get started, might be the crappy
gas or something. I have a 45 or 50 yo Homelite XL that I like but the
pickup got goobered and I have not fixed it. It has no safety features
whatsoever
Michael Canfield wrote:
I would like to hear from someone that has actually witnessed a saw chain
breaking...been around saws my whole life and never seen it.
Most chain saw injuries are due to carelessness.
It only takes an instant of carelessness.
I once got my little Husqvarna stuck in
Allan Streib wrote:
> Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be
> practical.
>
> Don't really know much about them. I don't need anything
> lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either. It's
> probably something I will only use a few times a year. Maybe
> should
I would like to hear from someone that has actually witnessed a saw chain
breaking...been around saws my whole life and never seen it.
Most chain saw injuries are due to carelessness.
Mike
On May 11, 2013 3:06 AM, "Max" wrote:
> Yes, but there is zero room for error. And if the chain break
Yes, but there is zero room for error. And if the chain breaks during
operation, it can easily destroy an arm, or a leg, or your face, etc.
Leggings, helmet, eye protection, gloves, hearing protection, all recommended.
Unfortunately an area logger would usually suffer a chain saw accident onc
A chain saw is no more dangerous than any other power tool if you simply
use common sense, go slow, wear safety gear andnpay attention to what you
are doing at all times.
Mike
On May 11, 2013 2:40 AM, "Max" wrote:
> I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise that
> you
I can't help you with selecting the right machine, but I would advise that you
take all safety precautions very seriously. A chain saw is probably the single
most dangerous tool a man can ever use. If you can take a class locally, you
can probably get some great tips on how to operate one safe
Depends on how big of trees you plan to cut. If nothing you plan to cut is
over 8" or so look at an Echo 14" or 16". They are very light, super
dependable, plenty powerful enough to cut up the big stuff and very well
balanced for one hand use when doing a lot of small stuff. If you are
doing pri
I have a fairly wooded lot and have decided I need to get a chain saw to
keep it maintained. I checked local CL and surprisingly didn't find
much.
Needs to be gas-powered, too large a lot for electric to be practical.
Don't really know much about them. I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality,
Don't really know much about them. I don't need anything
lumberjack-quality, but don't want a piece of junk either. It's
probably something I will only use a few times a year. Maybe should
just rent one as needed?
Having one is better than not, if you need one at all. You'll
use it more than
Sounds like any 16-18 inch consumer-grade chainsaw will fit your need.
You'll find several types at Walmart, Lowes, etc. Pro-grade saws will cost
2x-3x the price of the homeowner stuff. Whatever you get: (1) don't store
it with fuel in the tank (or you'll need to replace the carb), (2) don't use
<< Needs to be gas-powered...>>
Aren't there any diesel powered units out there???
Greg
-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Allan
Streib
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 6:25 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] OT: chain saws
I have a fairly w
On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 8:47 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
> Mitch Haley wrote:
> Yikes! I meant 435. No point in buying a Husky if the model number starts
> with 2, may as well buy the Poulan version instead and same some money.
> (Husky, Poulan, Redmax, and Jonsered are the same company)
> Curt has a s
OK Don wrote:
I'm definitely in the newbie catagory.
You should definitely download this book:
http://courses.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Library/Safe%20Work/WCB%20fallers_buckers.pdf
or http://tinyurl.com/dxa9yj
You might want to read some of the safety threads on ArboristSite.
On
Thanks! That's some good info ---
On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 10:01 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
> OK Don wrote:
>
>> No, it's yellow - "Poulan Pro PP4218AVX
>>
>
> I'm not familiar with that one, but the model number makes me wonder if
> it's a yellow Wild Thing. Hopefully, if they put the PP name on it
It all depends on what you expect of it...
Last year I bought a Husky 445, I paid right around $300, its also an 18" and
it ROCKS. Prior to getting it the best saw I'd ever used was an '80s vintage
Echo 510EVL which is a good saw but the Husky is better, low weight and
vibration, good power, goo
Mitch Haley wrote:
If you want a new homeowner saw instead of one of those used store
return "refurbs", then I suggest you go to TSC and drop $200 on a much
better Poulan Pro 330, or go to the Stihl dealer and pick up a MS-181,
or maybe a Husky 235.
Yikes! I meant 435. No point in buying a
OK Don wrote:
No, it's yellow - "Poulan Pro PP4218AVX
I'm not familiar with that one, but the model number makes me wonder if it's a
yellow Wild Thing. Hopefully, if they put the PP name on it they put a plated
cylinder in it. The Wild Thing is a world class POS, with a chrome plated piston
Good to hear --
On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
> From: "OK Don"
>
> No, it's yellow - "Poulan Pro PP4218AVX 18-Inch 42cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered
>> Anti-Vibration Chain Saw"
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001SQWCUQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPD
From: "OK Don"
No, it's yellow - "Poulan Pro PP4218AVX 18-Inch 42cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered
Anti-Vibration Chain Saw"
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001SQWCUQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance
I know it's a home-use toy, but given the little use I have for i
From: "Rich Thomas"
Is that the orange one they sell at Lowe's? I bought chainsaw there a
coupla months ago,
Orange is a Husqvarna. Take it back, I think they are warranted for a year.
Good saw.
Rick
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts g
--R- wrote:
> And
> another one my dad had that refuses to idle but runs fine if you keep it
> wide open. Kinda hard to use. I tried to adjust that one, 2 cycles
> mystify me.
Send it to me - we can make it work. Plus, we might have a better
selection of shops that have old stuff for old engin
No, it's yellow - "Poulan Pro PP4218AVX 18-Inch 42cc 2-Stroke Gas Powered
Anti-Vibration Chain Saw"
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B001SQWCUQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance
I know it's a home-use toy, but given the little use I have for it, it seems
like it
Is that the orange one they sell at Lowe's? I bought chainsaw there a
coupla months ago, I think it is a Poulan. It has a brake feature that
you pull back on the guard to lock the chain so when you start it you
won't cut your hand off or something. The second day of cutting up a
BIG oak tree
Agree poulan is ok for occ use, best is stihl
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 15, 2009, at 8:10 PM, "Rick Knoble"
wrote:
From: "OK Don"
Is the Poulan Pro 18" chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally
for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10" electric
trimming saw
From: "OK Don"
Is the Poulan Pro 18" chain saw a decent tool? On 'sale' locally for $150.
It would be for occaisonal use - to supplement the 10" electric trimming
saw
I currently use, and that I don't think will be up to felling the 16"
diameter dead pine tree in the front yard.
If it is a
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