from:"Russ Melody"


Hi Guys,

I think the 35 is a mk III. The keel sure ain't a mk-1 and I think 
the companionway traveller disqualifies it as a mk-2.


Oh, and thanks for the notice Mark.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:55 PM 11/03/2016, you wrote:

C 35 parts...
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/5485675266.html
(I believe it's this guy 
http://www.massmarineparts.com/index.aspx 
)

C 26 parts...
http://providence.craigslist.org/bpo/5449947232.html
No affiliation to either one, I'm just local and saw the ads.
Mark
'73 C 25 Mk 1
Mattapoisett, MA
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Re: Stus-List - thanks



Whoa, I'm a month out already.

Jeez. I need more days off. :)

Cheers, Russ

At 09:34 AM 11/03/2016, you wrote:

Yes, Stu actually just confirmed that about 4 days ago.




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Re: Stus-List no more classifieds?



Hi Ted,

Since I'm in the "Stu section" of archive, ' thought this might be 
helpful. Current info, it was sent out just a few week ago.


Cheers, Russ

At 06:12 AM 06/03/2016, you wrote:

Sean

I removed the Classified Ads from the Photo Album for lack of 
interest, software problems and huge costs related to upgrading.


If you have something for sale, just send an email to the list 
detailing your items.


Stu




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Re: Stus-List Please!!!!!!!!



Here's a reminder of the plea from Stu.

At least we got through a couple of dozen issue... :)

Cheers, Russ

At 09:51 AM 01/03/2016, you wrote:
Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List 
Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some 
subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that 
subject line instead of reading them.


So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!

Stu




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Re: Stus-List Low Viscosity Epoxy

2016-03-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Sam,

The penetrating epoxy is kinda volatile so you might have difficulty 
with a US firm shipping across the border.


The two Canadian Manufacturers I like to deal with are Systems 3 and 
Industrial Formulators. They both started out in Lower Mainland area, B.C.


My last purchase was System Three (regular epoxy as barrier coat 
under Inter 2000)  'cause they were cheaper :)

https://systemthree.com/collections/rot-repair

Did I mention I also have a wooden boat?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet,  35 mk-1
Salerosa, Atkins - Margery Daw - 40'

At 09:45 AM 10/03/2016, you wrote:
Where do you guys get the very low viscosity resin that soaks into 
wood end grain?

Thanks
sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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Re: Stus-List Shaft pitting

2016-03-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brian,

This pitting is not unusual for stainless steel that has spent time 
in a low oxygen environment. The water in there is stagnate, oxygen 
depletes, a galvanic cell develops and viola. The process is the 
pits, so to speak.


The remedy is pretty much as you did, clean up the shaft best as 
possible. To my eye that amount of pitting is not going to affect reliability.


To avoid future pitting don't leave the shaft in one position during 
long periods of immersion. Run the engine a little while in gear or 
at least turn the shaft by hand a bit during your regular checks when 
you're not using the boat.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:15 PM 04/03/2016, you wrote:

I cleaned up the prop shaft. Then took 600 grit sandpaper then 400 
grit sandpaper to it. There is some pitting on the shaft that rides 
in the bearing. Attached is a link to my blog that has a pic. Is 
this an issue? Do I need to replace the shaft or have these pits filled?

Content-Type: image/jpeg; name=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
X-Attachment-Id: 1527911260592537600-local0

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12 -> subject change n message trim

2016-03-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Paul, Edd & Ryan,

Please review recent message from Stu. Actually, it's more of a plea from Stu.

For this reply I trimmed about 10 pages of 
unnecessary content and bolded, below, the relevant point(s).


Not trying to be a dick-head about this but 
viewed form Stu's perspective, it diminishes the 
usefulness of his list and he pays a lot more in bit fees (bandwidth).


Regards, Russ


At 01:09 PM 02/03/2016, you wrote:
Thanks Gary.Â  Just found out from the previous 
owner it's a West Marine Ablative, but he can't remember specifically which.


On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 12:00 PM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
Â  Â  Â  Â  cnc-list@cnc-list.com


When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

Â  Â 1. Re:Â  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Gary Nylander)
Â  Â 2. Re:Â  Gori 2 Blade Re-fit (John Irvin)
Â  Â 3. Re:Â  Rudder crack C 25 (Peter Fell)
Â  Â 4. Re:Â  Faria Depth Finders (Ryan Doyle)
Â  Â 5. Re:Â  FM antenna? (Michael Brown)
Â  Â 6. Re:Â  Faria Depth Finders (Della Barba, Joe)
Â  Â 7. Re:Â  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
Â  Â 8.Â  Bilge hose (Bradley Lumgair)
Â  Â 9. Re:Â  Bilge hose (Joel Aronson)
Â  10. Re:Â  Rudder crack C 25 (Marek Dziedzic)
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

2016-02-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



In a re-fit many years ago I looked for replacement thru-hulls.

After not having success finding a replacement I 
got a NPT cutter head for a 'Rigid' pipe 
threading machine, from the local rental shop. 
You can adjust the "bite" of the cutter so I 
started off loose and cut some taper threads by 
hand. With the replacement ball valve nearby I 
kept at it until there was the desired fit. After 
the first one the rest were easy.


So, now my C original thru-hulls, which were in good shape, are taper thread.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 08:33 PM 26/02/2016, you wrote:
I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded 
ball valves is a difficult task. For example, 
every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).



From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Joe;

The bad news is I donât believe that anyone 
makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic 
C anymore. All the ones I have seen are a 
smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls.


The good news is that you rarely need to replace 
a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the 
thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the 
Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to 
hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
while you remove the old valve from the threads 
of the existing thru hull from inside the hull. 
(you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, 
but it is called a plumberâs step wrench or something similar)


Both my boats came with brass gate valves on 
most of the thru hulls, instead of proper 
seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I 
launched into replacing the gate valves, 
starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up 
both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and 
had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull 
to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull.


I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a 
chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly  
a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with 
lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Donât 
you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
And the guy at the chandlery explained how you 
are supposed to get the old valve off the thru 
hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I 
bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.


BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. 
And the seacocks should be either bronze or 
Marlon. You donât want to use brass if you are 
in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with 
straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of 
my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing 
plates with a nut, so I did not have to use 
seacocks with a flange on them. But I have 
learned that ball valves intended for plumbing 
come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure 
I ordered ball valves with straight threads that 
matched the threads on the thru hull.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC





From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Try here:

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

The company is near us.

Joel

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at 
Zialater via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
1975 30 MK1.

They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
non-original thru hull fit.

Thanks for any ideas on this.

Joe

Zia - 1975 C 30 MK1
Annapolis



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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List radar mast/pole on C 32

2016-02-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Jim,

I might be doing a pole mount this year too.

Can you double check the pole diameter? It looks to maybe scale as a 
2" comparing to nearby stanchion in the pics.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:41 PM 23/02/2016, you wrote:
I built a pole mount on our 35-3 that is pretty simple. I got the 
stainless plate sheared to size and had it welded onto the pole. 
It's all handrail fittings and 1" SS tube. I made the tube clamp 
from some 1" black Starboard scraps, bought a Seadog anchor stopper 
for the base. Including the radar, I spent less than $700. I added 
another brace to the coaming after I took these pix just for a 
little more stability.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eZodRniJGz0/VZcvHSR3VpI/DNw/wXPsxk5waLI/s720-Ic42/pole.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FF5A-_Ahhco/VZc7HaE1ZLI/DOA/rQPkzOM__Dg/s720-Ic42/base.jpg

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

2016-02-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Bill,

Mustang did the MAC deflatable wings in 1988 with a retail version in 1997.

I still have my "floater coat" from the mid-70s. 
The high end unit with a "beavertail" to delay 
the onset of hypothermia, developed in 
conjunction with a research team at University of Victoria.


Check out the timeline. Especially 1968, 1977 (my 
coat) and 1983, pretty interesting eh:

http://www.mustangsurvival.com/about-mustang/mustang-timeline?country=23


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:56 AM 22/02/2016, you wrote:

I thought Sospenders came up with these first, 
but maybe they were just the first in the USA.


Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness


Wow. The Mustang auto-inflate @ 130USD.  And 
aren't these the guys who invented the things for small vessel use?


<http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522_medium=email_campaign=Feb_2016_W_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92_source=newsletter_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST>http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522_medium=email_campaign=Feb_2016_W_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92_source=newsletter_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST

 Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 07:57 AM 19/02/2016, you wrote:

DonÃ¢t know if if mustangs interest anyone ,
But they are on sale in Canada , IÃ¢m sure USD SD makes them a better deal)



Tim Sippel
C 33mkii
 Matico
From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:20 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

I have both West and Spinlock harnesses on my 
boat. IMHO the Spinlock is much better and 
certainly is more comfortable. The West Marine 
version is still way better than none if you 
want to save some cash. I bought the cheap one 
and then my lovely wife got me a Spinlock for Christmas J J

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:16 AM
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

Just a note about the Spinlock harness, which 
most offshore sailors think is the best harness 
going: I have spoken to the company reps and the 
reason it's not CG certified is that the process 
is so long and expensive that it isn't worth their while.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:48 AM, jhnelson via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for 
sanctioned offshore race it would need to be 
modified to have leg straps.  Otherwise it is 
very similar to mine and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal.


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Re: Stus-List New sail for the roller furler?

2016-02-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Curtis,

the name of the loft was in Fred's message.

here they are: http://www.leitchandmcbride.com/

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island



At 07:34 PM 20/02/2016, you wrote:

So maybe if I buy sail and furler from same shop 
I may cam get a deal I need the name of the shop. Thanx
On Feb 20, 2016 8:43 PM, "Peter Fell via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Yup.
Â
Sails are made locally or in a US-based loft ... not offshore.
Â
Furlex dealer too if Iâm not mistaken.
Â
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 4:27 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List New sail for the roller furler?
Â
Very good loft.
Â
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
Â
On 20 February 2016 at 15:59, Fred Hazzard via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Leitch & McBride.Â  250 656 0751

Â


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Re: Stus-List New sail for the roller furler?

2016-02-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hey Capt',

Do have any non-conforming liveaboards or moored 
boats with a lapse in insurance requirements? 
Those owners good be your best source of a good deal, if ya know what I mean.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

"No sir, I don't live here. I'm staying aboard the boat just now."  :)


At 11:31 AM 20/02/2016, you wrote:

I'm shopping for a new head sail %135 with foam.Â
I also need a furler.Â
Being a Manager / Harbor Master, Â any idea or wisdom on what to buy?
I need a good deal.

Â
Thanks
--

Capt, Curtis McDaniel

Dataw Island Marina

Harbor Master

470-313-0918

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Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

2016-02-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Wow. The Mustang auto-inflate @ 130USD.  And 
aren't these the guys who invented the things for small vessel use?


http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522_medium=email_campaign=Feb_2016_W_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92_source=newsletter_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 07:57 AM 19/02/2016, you wrote:

Donât know if mustangs interest anyone ,
But they are on sale in Canada , Iâm sure USD makes them a better deal)



Tim Sippel
C 33mkii
 Matico
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:20 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

I have both West and Spinlock harnesses on my 
boat. IMHO the Spinlock is much better and 
certainly is more comfortable. The West Marine 
version is still way better than none if you 
want to save some cash. I bought the cheap one 
and then my lovely wife got me a Spinlock for Christmas J J

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

Just a note about the Spinlock harness, which 
most offshore sailors think is the best harness 
going: I have spoken to the company reps and the 
reason it's not CG certified is that the process 
is so long and expensive that it isn't worth their while.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:48 AM, jhnelson via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for 
sanctioned offshore race it would need to be 
modified to have leg straps.  Otherwise it is 
very similar to mine and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal.




Sent from my Samsung device


 Original message 
From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 2016-02-19 10:11 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness


West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness 
on sale today only for 150 bucks. (U.S.)


I have no experience with the product, but I 
just paid more than twice that much for a 
Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified.


Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260





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From: The Binnacle Marine store 
To: Tim Sippel

Re: Stus-List Fuel

2016-02-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Al,

3 litres an hour will include a safety factor. Normal use estimate on 
my 35 @ 12,000ish pounds is 2 litres an hour.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:37 PM 16/02/2016, you wrote:
Does anyone have a round number for fuel usage in a 37+? Mine has a 
Yanmar  3JH2E with a three blade Maxprop, pitch unknown. I need to 
move the boat to its new home and I have no idea how much fuel it 
will use. I don't want to just fill it up as I'm planning on some 
tank cleaning in the near future. An approximation will do as I will 
then add a safety factor.


Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37+


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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

2016-02-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brad,

When you race in one of these, do you need to keep one hand tied 
behind your back or can you let it just hang at your side?


Inquiring minds want to know. :)

Happy V D to all.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island, bounded by the Salish Sea, Johnstone 
Strait & North Pacific Ocean



At 02:52 PM 14/02/2016, you wrote:
Was out last fall for the Lower Lake Huron Single Handed, on our new 
to us 33-2, my first single handed. Headed out with the 155 on the 
furler, realized before start that it was WAY too much so set about 
changing to #3, quite a "Charlie Foxtrot". Was 20 min late to the 
start. Should have thrown a reef in as well as i saw 28 knots true 
wind. Lesson learned!  Saw boat speeds of 10.8 on GPS. Would reef 
between 18 and 20 depending on passengers/crew.

Brad
Pulse 1985 C 33 MkII
[]
[]

I'd rather be sailing
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

2016-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Dwight's content should not be missed.
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind 
speed & angle and maybe even include time to 
destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".


For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail 
getting buried" is the tell-tale. If she can't be 
put back on 'er feet by dropping the traveller, 
flattening the main or easing the vang & sheet to 
twist off the head, changing course a bit, 
getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to reef.


Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for any 
size of our boats, they are not initially tender 
so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur ear".


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:
One season I started early and just left the 
main reefedÂ even when I packed up at the end of 
a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. 
Anyway with Alianna I now prefer full main and 
furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine 
works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead 
points. If that's still too much for comfort the 
genoa gets rolled up all the way andÂ just full 
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of 
sail you can carry is a function of weight on 
the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had 
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her 
with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I 
am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes.Â




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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

2016-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Rick,

Thanks for backing me up on this.

It's a good thread and we got enough information 
to conclude there is no simple "time to reef" and 
there is a pile of good tricks to forestall tucking in a reef.


Sometimes, the best time to reef is as you 
express with using angle of heel as the indicator 
to gain the best speed and comfort. However, 
there are times on the race course, with the 45', 
where I will not call for a reef if the windward 
mark can be seen. It is often quicker to carry 
on, with a crew of  6 - 9 and recalling the statement,
"The chance for mistakes is about equal to the 
number of crew squared."  -  Ted Turner


And I hope my point was not interpreted by anyone 
as: "reef when the toe-rail in in the water".
That is not the same as: "if your toe-rail is in 
then water, it's time to reef."


"Any fool can carry on, but a wise man knows how 
to shorten sail in time." -  Joseph Conrad


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island




At 01:39 PM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D1667D.14003C80"
Content-Language: en-us

toe rail getting buried might not be the best indicator.

To bury the toe rail on my 38 takes over 33 
degrees of heel. And the boat is at its best 
with 18 to 20. 25 degrees of heel still leaves 
the toe rail about a foot out of the water.


Now my 25 is different. There is less free board 
so 25 degrees of heal puts the toe rail just 
about in the water. But the boat is still faster 
and more comfortable with only about 20 degrees on her.


If I am in a hurry, when I get to about 15 
degrees of heel, and presuming there are no 
white faces and white knuckles among the guests, 
I will start doing the other things you suggest: 
dropping the traveler, flattening the main or 
easing the vang & sheet to twist off the head, 
changing course a bit, etc. If that doesnt cut 
it, it is time to reef. And white faces and 
white knuckles mean reefing even earlier.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2


Dwight's content should not be missed.
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind 
speed & angle and maybe even include time to 
destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".


For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail 
getting buried" is the tell-tale. If she can't 
be put back on 'er feet by dropping the 
traveller, flattening the main or easing the 
vang & sheet to twist off the head, changing 
course a bit, getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to reef.


Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for 
any size of our boats, they are not initially 
tender so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur ear".


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

One season I started early and just left the 
main reefedÂ even when I packed up at the end of 
a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. 
Anyway with Alianna I now prefer full main and 
furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine 
works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead 
points. If that's still too much for comfort the 
genoa gets rolled up all the way andÂ just full 
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of 
sail you can carry is a function of weight on 
the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had 
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her 
with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I 
am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes.Â




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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

2016-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


So right on the tonnage.

Net tonnage is the cargo carrying capacity of wine casks in the old 
days. The good old days, a couple o' hundred years ago. :)
So, it means you can go cruising with 1800 gallons of wine and not 
much else. Nothing wrong with that eh.


Gross tonnage includes machinery, crew and galley spaces.

cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 06:18 PM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

When last documented (it expired in March 1993) it was named 
Stardust, and owned by Teresa J Barbero. The hail port was New York 
City. And the previous owner was Joseph A Besso. 9 tonnes is the net 
capacity (it is a function of volume, not weight). 11 is the gross tonnage.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
USCG 664669
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Under 5 tonnes net so can't be documented
Washington, NC


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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp vs Kiwi

2016-02-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I have a Kiwi-prop, installed 2008 when I changed 
out the A4 to an old Yanmar QM20. I like it.


Chosen in part because I could swing the largest 
diameter due to the way blades are mounted. Tip 
clearance took advantage of the way the buttock 
lines sweep up a lot in the area. A few extra 
inches in (new) shaft length and I got a 17" prop down there. :)


The thing is a beast in reverse because it goes 
full pitch (no adjustable stops) so I typically 
just go a few boats lengths at most and pop into 
neutral if I have to travel further back.
Great customer support if dealing with John in 
New Zealand. I suggest going direct and giving a 
pass on the Canadian distributor if you choose a Kiwi-prop.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 -1
Vancouver Island

At 09:46 AM 08/02/2016, you wrote:
Have you considered Kiwi prop? I donât have 
the first hand experience, but the tests suggest 
that it is in the middle of the pack for prop 
walk and reverse pull and it is, usually, 
substantially cheaper than the Gori or Max-Prop.


And, as usual, the best is to check the actual 
test results, e.g. here: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807. 
Please be aware that the original test was done 
in 2009, though I am not sure if much has 
changed since. The same test is available as a 
PDF from Flexofold web site (here: 
http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/). 
I guess they liked what they saw there.


Marek

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Why don't you start a discussion about replacing
the A4 with something safer, like a diesel? :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island
Gone sailing but couldn't resist that one!

At 06:56 AM 07/02/2016, you wrote:
Ok, so it looks like I shouldn't be installing
one of these in the engine compartment of my gasoline powered boat:

Warning - Explosion HazardÂ
1. Heater must be turned off while re-fueling.Â
2. Do not install heater in enclosed areas where
combustible fumes may be present.Â

3. Do not install heaters in engine compartments of gasoline powered boats.

Boo.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 6:43 AM, Ken Heaton via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I've never needed to start the engine to get the
Espar to start.Â It has always started and run fine off the batteries.

Ken H.

On 6 February 2016 at 14:52, Graham Collins via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided
the end of the hose is clear of any fumes you
are good to go.Â You could connect that through
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced
piece of mind.Â If you have flammable vapor in
your main cabin then all bets are off...

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go
through a gallon or two while working on the
boat in the winter.Â So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup
draw, I run mine off batteries all the time and have never had an issue.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I'm reading the
<http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>marine
installation manual and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the
combustion air must not allow exhaust fumes or
flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a
gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does
this preclude me from installing one of these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank?
I'de like something small that I can top off
from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place
in the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are
others using if using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa
<<mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside
the cabin (somewhere behind the bulkhead I
would imagine, hanging locker on my boat
likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the
engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
is pretty much how i have to mount it:

<http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg>http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the
mast. Port side isn't optimal either. Now that
I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the
venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.Â

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>On Fri, Feb 5,
2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat
output on low settings, not to be overlooked.
The Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
location with proper venting is the same for
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak.
The tank can be almost anywhere for either unit
and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then
you get a little impulse pump similar to what
the Espar uses. I would see about putting the
tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high
enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep
everything outside. Either heater would like a
2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to
1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
retirement cruising I will have both types of
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Vancouver Island

At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Steve,

1. - no, it does not preclude install in that
space (up high please) . your gas tank is vented
outside or you will smell fumes regularly (I know
this from a weeping leak when I had the A4).
Note: you may need to up-size ventilation for the
space for the times the heater is on while you are running the bilge blower.

2. - 4 or 5 gallons will be plenty to account for your intended use.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 09:45 AM 06/02/2016, you wrote:
I'm reading the
<http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>marine
installation manual and have some questions:

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa
<<mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside
the cabin (somewhere behind the bulkhead I would
imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With
the espar/webasto, it's in the engine
compartment. Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:

<http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg>http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
location with proper venting is the same for
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak.
The tank can be almost anywhere for either unit
and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then
you get a little impulse pump similar to what
the Espar uses. I would see about putting the
tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high
enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep
everything outside. Either heater would like a 2
- 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1
gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
retirement cruising I will have both types of
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Vancouver Island

At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
favourite things. But the only units worth
getting are expensive wood stove types, which
are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
appealing because it's out of the way. The
problem for me with the diesel newport is the
fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
really like about my boat is that it doesn't
smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned
about the diesel smell. Most of what I've read
about them is good however and to your point,
maybe more heat than the D2, less money for
sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like diesel?Ã

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I
use a propane tent heater the warms the cabin
for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry
heat. It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry
the inside on a foggy Maine evening.Ã

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RIÃ
USA 02840
+401 965Ã 5260

On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Steve,
Check the specs:
http://dickinsonmarine.com/product/newport-diesel-heater/
http://www.eberspaecher-na.com/fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_Kanada/pdf/Airtronic_D2-D4-D5_Spec_sheet.pdf

The Newport heater is up to the task, low setting
is at D2 high and high setting is 10 percent over the D4 high.

I believe the Espar D2 will be adequate for
Georgian Bay cruising up to end of September.

High heat output is good to get the cabin quickly
up to temperature from cold. If you're running
the heater all night then smaller is better (less cycling).

Comparison of the two styles is not as easy.
Dickenson Newport:
Pros: no power required, no reset problems on
"fail to start too many times", visible flame
(fireplace ambience), warming plate for a pot o'
whatever (may require an mod), steady radiant heat
Cons: higher heat on low may require cracking a
hatch open to control cabin temp unless the
Admiral & parrot don't like 80 degF, needs a
circulating fan for quicker cabin warm-up, dial 'twiddling' for temp control

Espar:
Pros: thermostat control, better heater output ranges, good air distribution
Cons: higher installed cost, needs battery support, more noise,

I have a Dickensen heater with the pressure
kerosene burner (forget what model it is) approx.
9000 BU, mounted low near the mast base. It is
good for cruising west coast up to end of
October. For winter cruising I use a portable
propane (Heater Buddy?) to get the cabin up to
temperature in the morning because I shutdown the
heater at night... which I would not do if running a Newport style burner.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 11:41 AM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Hi All,

I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto
units. Is anyone running one on a 32? There's a
good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet
of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(

My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the
season, not living aboard in the winter. The
boat is two hours away so there will be
"maintenance" trips in the spring and fall which
means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up there.Â

I have to keep the temps warm for the boat
parrot who'll be living aboard with us while we
cruise. We're planning three weeks in August
this year so it shouldn't be too much of an
issue but it gets cold up there at night, even
in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold
summer nights but I have ideas about maybe
cruising the North Channel when the fall colours
are out. I don't want to limit myself. At the
same time, I don't want to spend money that could go elsewhere.Â

The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters
are pretty but I hear they don't make quite
enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost,
but don't want to be disappointed. Everyone says
the Espar and Webastos are best.Â

I'de be doing the installation myself in any
case so am eager to hear from others who have gone through it.Â

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the 
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.


The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead 
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output 
on low settings, not to be overlooked. The 
Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.


Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank 
location with proper venting is the same for 
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The 
tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and 
if elevation is such that gravity feed is not 
going to work for the bulkhead heater then you 
get a little impulse pump similar to what the 
Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in 
the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and 
easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything 
outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon 
tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day 
use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.


On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for 
retirement cruising I will have both types of 
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport 
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid 
fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my 
favourite things. But the only units worth 
getting are expensive wood stove types, which 
are super nice, but I can't justify the expense 
and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is 
appealing because it's out of the way. The 
problem for me with the diesel newport is the 
fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I 
really like about my boat is that it doesn't 
smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater 
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere 
inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, 
maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about 
the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about 
them is good however and to your point, maybe 
more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's 
still an option, will my boat smell like diesel?Â


Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use 
a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6 
hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat. 
It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine evening.Â


Andy
C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RIÂ
USA 02840

+401 965Â 5260


On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Steve,
Â  I have an esparÂ  installed by po, no 
problems in five years.Â  But, does have 
significant current draw at start up.Â  I need 
to start engine to fire up unless on shore 
power.Â  After it gets going no 
problem.Â  Outlet in main cabin, v berthÂ  and head.Â

Bill Walker
Pentwater Mi
CnCÂ  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



--
On Friday, February 5, 2016 Stevan Plavsa via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi All,

I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto 
units. Is anyone running one on a 32? There's a 
good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. 
The literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 
feet of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(


My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the 
season, not living aboard in the winter. The 
boat is two hours away so there will be 
"maintenance" trips in the spring and fall 
which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up there.Â


I have to keep the temps warm for the boat 
parrot who'll be living aboard with us while we 
cruise. We're planning three weeks in August 
this year so it shouldn't be too much of an 
issue but it gets cold up there at night, even 
in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for 
cold summer nights but I have ideas about maybe 
cruising the North Channel when the fall 
colours are out. I don't want to limit myself. 
At the same time, I don't want to spend money that could go elsewhere.Â


The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters 
are pretty but I hear they don't make quite 
enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, 
but don't want to be disappointed. Everyone 
says the Espar and Webastos are best.Â


I'de be doing the installation myself in any 
case so am eager to hear from others who have gone through it.Â


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


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Re: Stus-List Old C factories on Google Street View

2016-02-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Good one Bill.

Like the forest industry gam at an ecological convention, "Ya can 
make anything outta wood except a profit."


or, when the farmer was asked what he will do with his lottery win, 
"I guess I can keep farming, until it's gone."


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
taking tomorrow off and doing some boat puttering




At 04:34 PM 01/02/2016, you wrote:


The saying goes,

 If you want to make a small fortune, take a large fortune and 
start a boat Shop.


Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA




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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

2016-01-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Yeah, but they're not the ones crawling around an 
engine looking for leaks. It's good that they 
have the info though, so they can direct the guy on what needs to be done.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1
Neanderthal skipper


At 08:40 AM 30/01/2016, you wrote:
Mike  there are actually at least a couple of 
women on the list, as well FYI   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 30, 2016, at 6:19 AM, Headgorilla via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Good Morning Men...


Mike
Skywalker 1978 34"
Southold, NY


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Re: Stus-List The Big Storm

2016-01-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Thanks for the concern Stu.

We're okay out west. The rain stopped a couple of days ago and the 
forecast for racing today is 10 - 15 S/E with a high of 50 F.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet35 mk-1
east side o' Vancouver Island


At 06:28 AM 24/01/2016, you wrote:

Hopefully everyone survived the BIG STORM.

Stu



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Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller

2016-01-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



It looks like your auto-correct changed rudder stock to stalk (like celery).


In Europe it is oft times used as one word, rudderstock.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:16 AM 22/01/2016, you wrote:

So based on your description if you were to 
remove the tiller handle where the single bolt 
holds it to the rudder stalk, then you would be 
able to move the stalk side to side?Â  What about fore and aft?


Based on my current understanding, it sounds 
like the bushings at the deck or hull or both 
are worn.Â  Many C simply used Acetyl (Nylon) 
tubes for the stalk to pass through.Â  Many of 
us have installed grease (zirc) fittings to 
facilitate easier maintenance.Â  A machine shop 
can easily fabricate new bushings from stock you 
provide.Â  Removing the old ones may prove 
difficult.Â  Also when the boat is out of the 
water, you want to drop the rudder to make sure 
that the shaft isn't eroded/corroded.Â  While 
you're at it make sure the shaft/stalk isn't rotating in the rudder.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 22, 2016 1:06 PM, "Ryan Doyle via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Josh,

Thanks very much.Â  My apologies.. I should have 
been clearer in my description of the 
issue.Â  The play is certainly not in the 
attachment of the wood tiller to the metal 
plates or the stock head (option 1 or 2).Â  That 
would have been too easy.Â  It is below that in 
what I think is (4) the deck bushing.Â


Thanks again in advance for the help.

Ryan


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2016 13:37:37 -0500
From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject:Â Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller
Message-ID:
Â  Â 
<CA+zaCRB4Nd6W+a2hJcYg6FRs6W+LmnU97kKp=r1nqfe6sef...@mail.gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Not real clear where the play is.Â  It looks like there are at least 4
interfaces which need checked to determine the feasibility of reducing the
play.

1 - Wood to metal plates transition on the tiller.

2 - Â Metal plates on tiller to rudder stock head (square).

3 - Rudder stock head (square) to rudder stock (round) .

4 - Rudder stock (round) moving side to side (port/stbd) in the deck
bushing.

Let us know where the play is being experienced and I'm sure someone will
have answers.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Oil cooler corrosion

2016-01-21 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brian,

That amount of rusting is not bad. Follow through with your 
intentions and all will be fine.


I suggest flat black paint is appropriate for a heat exchanger.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island


At 04:28 PM 21/01/2016, you wrote:

While working to remove the rusty exhaust mixing tee I noticed 
significant rust on the oil cooler exterior.

I decided to remove it for inspection.
Here are some pics:
http://i.imgur.com/JRncLOQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R9HJv2k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mboAyhP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LG1CBoV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3o8jjDm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GEEHAo0.jpg

Looks to me to be in ok shape. The exterior rust does not look too 
deep. My guess it is caused by the leaky exhaust which is just a few 
inches away.
The corrosion at the braze weld is a bit concerning, but since it is 
not also occurring at the seawater exit end it probably is also 
caused by the leaky exhaust splashing onto it, rather than 
indicating corrosion from within.
My intentions are to just do a rust removal and repaint on the 
exterior, and a removal of the corrosion on the nipples.

Any input is welcome.
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Re: Stus-List 93 37+ for sale cheap!

2016-01-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



It looks like $80,000 CDN or $55,000 USD. This will be a good year 
for USA shoppers in Canada.


Today, if our central bank poodle cuts the bank rate by 1/4 percent 
then it will knock another 3 percent off this sale price.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island


At 05:19 AM 20/01/2016, you wrote:
1993 37+ for $55K 
CND. 
https://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1993-c-c-37-40-plus-5363618/#.Vp-H-a876rU


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Testing DSC

2016-01-15 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi David,

thanks for the info, looks like I got some 
reading to do or I could just ask the list... :)


 I thought to the DSC function was for ringing 
me mates on 16 (ring only their radio)  and then 
we go to a working channel in the normal fashion.

So if I have DSC enabled does the radio need to be on dual watch?
Maybe this is the year I get my number and 
configure the radio but then I'll have to find some friends too. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:27 PM 14/01/2016, you wrote:

Russ,

Just by way of clarification, I think you'll 
find that Bob is asking about the DSC only 
function.Â  Channel 70 is not a voice channel.


David
(Who will have the same problem soon way over here)

On 15 January 2016 at 13:12, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Bob,

the simple function is just like any ol' radio, 
after it's hooked up, just press play and talk.


All the fancy stuff needs programming/key 
functions to screw it up. I haven't configured my SH yet, too busy. :)


Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:04 PM 14/01/2016, you wrote:

Today I received my first grown-up radio, a Standard Horizon GX2200.
DSC looks like a very nice technology but I am 
wondering how to test/learn it without 
triggering a bunch of false alarms or general chaos.
I'm docked in a backwater, but there is 
occasional barge traffic that probably has AIS transmitters.
I'd like to verify that my new radio can easily 
communicate (via channel 70?) with the barges as they pass by.
Maybe I need to read the fine manual again but 
am wondering if anyone else has done this 
exercise and if there are any tips or gotchas.

Many thanks in advance,
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

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Re: Stus-List Testing DSC

2016-01-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Bob,

the simple function is just like any ol' radio, after it's hooked up, 
just press play and talk.


All the fancy stuff needs programming/key functions to screw it up. I 
haven't configured my SH yet, too busy. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:04 PM 14/01/2016, you wrote:

Today I received my first grown-up radio, a Standard Horizon GX2200.
DSC looks like a very nice technology but I am wondering how to 
test/learn it without triggering a bunch of false alarms or general chaos.
I'm docked in a backwater, but there is occasional barge traffic 
that probably has AIS transmitters.
I'd like to verify that my new radio can easily communicate (via 
channel 70?) with the barges as they pass by.
Maybe I need to read the fine manual again but am wondering if 
anyone else has done this exercise and if there are any tips or gotchas.

Many thanks in advance,
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

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Stus-List Jan 1 cruise and miss

2016-01-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



The New Years Day cruise is an old tradition for us. Most of the time 
it's a motor cruise since winter on the Wet Coast is either light to 
no wind or too much wind. This year was no wind but pleasant weather 
conditions.


An important part of this cruise is toasting some points of the 
compass. Cardinal points, if you please. January 1st almost kept us 
in the marina due to a layer of ice, we have a lot of fresh water 
coming into the smallish Nanaimo Harbour. Some brave boats cut a path 
so we could get out to do our toasts.


Had we known there were beasties only four miles away, we would have 
went out to Gabriola Island.


part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded=VZWU4VpTzHQ

part 2:
https://www.facebook.com/kyle.noble.56/videos_by

I was just shown these vids after the first day racing of the Winter 
Series. (today was 6 -10 S/E and broke to sun late afternoon)


Cheers, Russ
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Re: Stus-List Lexan hychcovers in GTA

2016-01-09 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Ed,

Thanks for the warning. I think I will avoid the 
Troana Boat Show... most of the others offer a discount. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 03:25 PM 09/01/2016, you wrote:

At the Toronto boat show Ontario Plastic 
Fabricators 
www.ontarioplastics.ca 
had a booth. Located in east end Toronto. They 
have Lexan listed on their handout ... colours 
and smokesÂ  25% premium on the listed cost.


No affiliation and have not purchased from them previously.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto
On Jan 8, 2016 11:26 AM, "W7218 via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Good Morning

I need to replace the Lexan/plexiglass 
companionway cover on a C 32.Â  Can anyone 
recommend a source in the Western Toronto to 
Hamilton area for getting this stuff and having 
it cut to size?Â  I have tried Oakville glass 
but they only have the clear material.Â  I need something called "bronzed".


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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

2016-01-09 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Curtis,

You'll probably need 5 litres. I use about 6 litres.

Sucks, yes. On the bright side, if you had the larger boat you would 
need 9 litres. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:39 PM 09/01/2016, you wrote:
Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my 
C 30 MK1 with 2 coats?

30 foot long and 10 foot beam?

--

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel,

C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
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Re: Stus-List Was Jib sheet - now buying sheets and halyards

2016-01-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Haha. No lasso on my boat and not many rednecks 
in our neck o' ta woods, so I don't even know 
where to look for one. I'll ask Rich Knowles, 
he's in the rope section at the Harbour Chandler these days.

I did turn a mooring line into a bridle, after 
the dingy was in the water it became a painter... :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island

At 08:08 PM 07/01/2016, you wrote:

figures, you got a lasso too???

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
<mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>d.ve...@bellaliant.net

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 11:50 PM, Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I've got rope on my sailboat, it's not all just a line.

There's the bellrope, boltrope and a spool of 
rope that hasn't been set a purpose yet.Â  And 
there is also rope that is sheet, guy, halyard, barber-hauler, rode, etc.Â

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:52 PM 07/01/2016, you wrote:
I have already been, done that (at 
APS).Â  Thanks anyway!Â  It is rope before it 
gets on a sailboat--then its line.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
(presently in Baltimore)
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so 
much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."Â  --Kenneth Grahame

On Jan 7, 2016, at 4:47 PM, Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

APS is having their annual January sale, but 
this year it is 25% off all line, not just custom work.

You can satisfy your fetish at a discount!

Joel

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 4:43 PM, Andrew Burton 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

"Unless you are like me and have a rope fetish!"
*Line*, please!
Andy
C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USAÂ Â Â  02840

<http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/>http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 

+401 965-5260
> On Jan 7, 2016, at 15:44, Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Unless you are like me and have a rope fetish!
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

2016-01-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Bill,

I saved a bunch of desiccant bags from our large 
turbine crate. I plan to use them in lockers and 
other small spaces as there is no water dropped 
out, they are an absorbent. You need twice as 
many so the companion set can be regenerating 
(drying) at home while the other set is working on the boat.

I had no idea the material was this cheap:
http://www.sorbentsystems.com/largebags.html

It is similar or the same stuff that is used in 
industrial sized air dryers. Our application is 
instrument air supply for pneumatic control valves.


The saloon will still have a fan (or fan & a bit 
o' heat) for circulation. If this works on a Wet 
Coast winter, it can work anywhere.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island



At 07:33 AM 08/01/2016, you wrote:

Content-type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_01C7_01D14A00.0B827710"
Content-language: en-us

BTW, compressed air dryers like those made by 
Van-Air use salt pellets over which the air 
passes.Â  The water drips down and is drained 
out the bottom. I believe there is also calcium 
chloride in it too, and maybe some secret 
ingredients, but if you had a bucket with holes 
in the bottom and a muffin fan to pull air 
through the pellets and another bucket to catch 
the salt water droplets it might work.


Bill Coleman
C 39
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:29 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation

Note that Damp-Rid is actually calcium chloride. 
I am going to buy a big bag of it at Home Depot 
and leave a bucket sitting out.

We will see how well that works.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 8:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation

A few years back I purchase an Eva Dry 
condensorless dehumidifier 
<https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier/>https://www.eva-dry.com/dehumidifiers/eva-dry-1100-petite-dehumidifier/


(I am not sure if condensorless is a word but I think it works in this case)

This is a 12v unit that weights approx. 4 lbs 
and removes up to one cup of water per day.  The 
unit comes with a 110v wall plug adaptor but for 
some reason not the 12v cord.  Whenever we are 
at our dock I plug this in and leave it on all 
the time.  When we go sailing I put it on a 
shelf over the settee since it is very small and 
light.  If I was to be away from the boat for 
extended periods I could probably drill a hole 
in the reservoir and place it in the sink to 
provide drainage.  This is a great unit and when 
mine finally dies I will buy another.  It beats 
the Heck out of dragging a full sized 
dehumidifier on and off a boat as I used to do on previous boats


Note that I obviously do not use this once the temps fall below freezing

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List 
[<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 1:50 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List winter condensation


I'm  having the same problems as everyone else.  Never before.

I worry about leaving heating appliances running 
while I'm not there.  I bought a 
dehumidifier.  30 pint/day.  Might not be any 
safer to leave alone than a heater.  Oddly, I 
have a engine block heater which I don't have any fear of leaving unattended.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 5, 2016 9:39 PM, "Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List" <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Joe,

Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.

I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 
degrees F above ambient and on a 12 hour timer 
set to come on at midnight. This allows me to 
override the timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.


80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.

If it gets really cold, like now it's at 
freezing, then I might get some condensation on 
the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck tarp hung yet.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
This winter with weather going form warm and 
humid to cold and back has caused more 
condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? 
Right now I am thinking about getting calcium 
chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and 
putting out a bucket of it plus maybe turning 
the heat up. I usually have it set about 45-50 
degrees or so if I am not down there doing something.

Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: 
<http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5>http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB

Re: Stus-List What's a Loud Hailer?

2016-01-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



A loud hailer is not uncommon on larger power boats in our area.
It's really annoying when the skipper uses the 
blasted thing from the comfort of the wheelhouse 
to communicate with the foredeck person, 
instructing the "anchor drop" or some such mooring adventure.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast

At 04:35 PM 07/01/2016, you wrote:
Yep, that's the purpose of a loud hailer.Â  Only 
boats I know off that use them are police, USCG 
and yacht club race committee boats.


While you're at it, buy a RAM mike for the 2200.

Also, send an off list to Fred Street and see 
what he can do for you on those items.Â  :)


Dennis C.

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 6:25 PM, bobmor99 . via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Sort of a companion thread to my GX2200 post. Is 
a loud hailer used to audibly state one's 
position - or else, maybe to shout, "Hey you, get outta the way!".
Is an additional speaker needed, e.g. 
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-MLS-310-External-Speaker-Black-P3035.aspx

Never been in the fog (on the water).

Thanks in advance,

--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL


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Re: Stus-List Was Jib sheet - now buying sheets and halyards

2016-01-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

I've got rope on my sailboat, it's not all just a line.

There's the bellrope, boltrope and a spool of rope that hasn't been 
set a purpose yet.  And there is also rope that is sheet, guy, 
halyard, barber-hauler, rode, etc.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:52 PM 07/01/2016, you wrote:
I have already been, done that (at APS).  Thanks anyway!  It is rope 
before it gets on a sailboat--then its line.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
(presently in Baltimore)
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as 
simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

On Jan 7, 2016, at 4:47 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

APS is having their annual January sale, but this year it is 25% 
off all line, not just custom work.

You can satisfy your fetish at a discount!

Joel

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 4:43 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

"Unless you are like me and have a rope fetish!"
*Line*, please!

Andy
C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jan 7, 2016, at 15:44, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Unless you are like me and have a rope fetish!

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

2016-01-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Joe,

Your current conditions sum up a B.C. South Coast winter pretty well.

I run a ceramic style "cube" heater set about 10 degrees F above 
ambient and on a 12 hour timer set to come on at midnight. This 
allows me to override the timer if I'm puttering on the boat during the day.


80 bucks CDN is my winter electric bill.

If it gets really cold, like now it's at freezing, then I might get 
some condensation on the fore hatch 'cause I don't have a foredeck 
tarp hung yet.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 09:10 AM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
This winter with weather going form warm and humid to cold and back 
has caused more condensation than the last 10 winters combined.
Anyone have any good ideas to get rid of it? Right now I am thinking 
about getting calcium chloride (the ingredient in Damp-Rid) and 
putting out a bucket of it plus maybe turning the heat up. I usually 
have it set about 45-50 degrees or so if I am not down there doing something.

Joe
Coquina
Cabin temp 51 degrees right now: http://aprs.fi/telemetry/a/N3HGB-5


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Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

2016-01-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



If it's in half decent shape after forty years, probably yes. The 
best paints back then had lead in it. We used to buy/compare exterior 
paint based on price & weight.


 Just don't let any children chew on it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:56 PM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some 
sanding of the original paint in there. Is there any chance that 
paint has lead in it?

Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List 818 messages...

2016-01-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Wal.

I missed the Mercy Christmas wishes to you... but I will join the 
crowd in wishing you a Happy New Year and Welcome Back.


No surprise on the number o' messages. I think it's from scourge of 
"smart phones" (which are really kinda dumb, but a whole 'nother topic).


Anyhow, a bunch of listers reply with single points now, instead of 
compiling their thoughts into a message which considers the whole 
problem expressed.


Beware. I believe Jim & I have been moved to dinosaur status. :)  

Cheers & Happy New Year, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 01:23 PM 03/01/2016, you wrote:
Hey, Happy Holidays. Yes, I've been AWOL.   I've had messages pile 
up, but 818 on this list has to be a record.  I'll do a quick scan 
and see if I have anything to add.


2015 was a weird year, with surgeries and pregnant women and lots of 
tequila and market corrections and stuff.  I'm hoping 2016 will be 
better, although in retrospect I'm still living a life most only dream of.


Wal

s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com

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Re: Stus-List C Nameplate

2016-01-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



It's pretty obvious we have to go with Gary's 
idea of using the friends CNC machine.


Do we need to spell it out... C N C machine? Ha ha ha.

Cheers, Russ
It's late now, getting tired.

At 07:51 PM 03/01/2016, you wrote:
UPS has 3D printing services.Â  If one of you 
creates the file, several can get them made at their local UPS store.


Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 8:35 PM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


You can make out the dagger in some of the 
pictures at the following link.Â  A simple 
graphics editor can bring it out and turn it 
into a pattern.Â  Let me know if you need 
help.Â  I can probably do it if I find time.


https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUklxR0VXQUd0WjA/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 3, 2016 8:03 AM, "Gary Russell via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I am trying to recreate the acrylic nameplate on 
the side of the cabin top on my C 37 
Plus.Â  What I need is a good artwork of the C 
dagger.Â  Can anyone shoot me a good picture of the nameplate or a C dagger.


TIA,
Gary
'90 C 37 Plus
~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help

2016-01-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That's what I use for a check valve too. Nobody 
ever blamed us for being conventional and no mention of wise either. :)


I have a Whale low profile stuffed way down below 
the mast as well. It dries the bilge much better than the old system.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/whale-pumps--super-sub-pumps--P011_330_001_544

It is true that check valves reduce pump capacity 
but this application is a wee pump doing a 
regular maintenance function so it won't matter 
if it is on a few more seconds in each 
cycle.  For urgent work, put in the largest pump 
you can and id doesn't need to be in the "ideal" location.



Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C South Coast, it's freezing here


At 04:27 PM 02/01/2016, you wrote:
Despite the "conventional wisdom" against check 
valves in bilge discharges, I've had one in 
Touche' for a decade and a half with no issues 
whatsoever.Â  I think the secret is the type of 
check valve one installs.Â  Jabsco, Whale and 
Bosworth make check valves for bilge 
discharges.Â  I have this 
one:Â 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bosworth--nylon-in-line-check-valves--P011_332_003_515


The bilge in the 35-1 has so little volume that 
my 1500 gph centrifugal pump just spurts and 
stops.Â  If it were not for the check valve, I'd 
simply be filling and draining the hose continuously.


Your other choice would be a diaphragm pump 
(which I think Joel said he already has).


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jan 2, 2016 at 6:06 PM, Marek Dziedzic 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


I think that there is general consensus that a 
check valve in a bilge pump hose is not a good thing.


Â

But honestly I donât have a good solution for 
avoiding the water coming back.


Â

Marek

Â


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Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

2016-01-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



These are purpose built packing pullers:
http://www.amazon.com/Palmetto-Packing-Extractor-flexible-removeable/dp/B00887BSP8

I have a few sets from the small to very large 
for doing pumps & valves. Only the small one is required for boat jobs.


A word of caution if you choose to use 
Goretex/Teflon packings... do not tighten the 
packing nut any more than necessary.
A time after we changed to these products at the 
plant there were numerous pump shaft wear sleeves 
ruined do to the gland being tightened as if it 
was old style packing (severe scoring). The word 
finally got around that mechanics should go easy 
on install and retighten the next run day or so 
to only that necessary. After a short run-in 
period these packings are really good.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:38 AM 01/01/2016, you wrote:
Get a set of 
these:Â 
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html


Dennis C.

On Fri, Jan 1, 2016 at 1:20 PM, Marek Dziedzic 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


It helps if you have access to some dentistâs 
tools (really). I have the PSS dripless, so I 
donât care, but I have seen it done. Almost 
calls for a dentistry hygienist to help.


Â

Marek

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset Beach via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, January 01, 2016 11:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach 
<nausetbe...@optonline.net>; 
'kelly petew' <kellype...@msn.com>

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

Â

Have used GFO packing for years.Â  It seems to 
be better than the standard flax packing. Â


Â

https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing 



Â

Just make certain you get all the old packing 
out first.Â  What should be a relatively simple 
task took me considerably more time than I had 
allocated â in other words, a fairly typical boat project.Â


Â

Good luck

Â

Brian

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of kelly petew via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, January 01, 2016 10:55 AM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: kelly petew <kellype...@msn.com>
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Recommendation needed

Â

Happy New Year to All!!
I have a 30-2 andÂ the stuff box was leaking 
noticeably all last season.Â  While periodic 
tighteningÂ helped, I'm guessing it's time to renew the packing.Â

And While a dripless seal would be great, it's not in the boat "budget".
Â
Any thoughts to share on preferred packing 
materials would be greatly appreciated.Â

Â
Pete W.
Siren Song
1991Â 30MKII
Deltaville, Va.Â
Â
Â
Â

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2016-01-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That seems simple enough... replace the gas A4 with a diesel  :)


At 07:43 AM 28/12/2015, you wrote:
Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. 
That's one of its big advantages on boats, that 
it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut 
down the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but 
they're probably asking that more as a general 
policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or 
in case some gasoline vapors wafted over to your boat).Â


The flash point (vaporization temp) of diesel is 126 F:Â
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point#Examples

There's a good writeup on engine blowers here:Â 
http://www.unitedmarine.net/blog/index.php/2013/01/30/who-needs-engine-room-blowers/


On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 6:09 AM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From:Â Rick Rohwer <rickroh...@gmail.com>
To:Â cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:Â
Date:Â Sun, 27 Dec 2015 22:16:22 -0800
Subject:Â Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
I am pretty sure vaporized diesel will blow up 
like gasoline vapor.Â  I know vaporized cooking 
fat will.Â  Donât most of the fuel docks ask 
you to shut down the engine and run the fan while fueling?Â


I had never thought of it as an air supply for the engine. Â

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA



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Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

2015-12-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



You mean, there's a reason for using Open CPN other than "Being the 
cheap SOB that..." ?


:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
OpenCPN user too


At 08:26 AM 24/12/2015, you wrote:

Joel,

I am looking at OpenCPN for another reason, but it exports a .gpx 
file and I don't know what that is or what accepts it as an input.


Fred,

What do you think of Raymarine RayTec  RNS Navigation Software?

Allen
30-2
Hampton

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Route Planning and Uploading to Chart Plotter

Allen,

Being the cheap SOB that I am, I run OpenCPN on my laptop, but I 
have never tried to transfer routes to my e7.  I also use the free 
Ray charts on the e7 rather than the Navionics charts.


Voyager does not look like it runs independent of the plotter - for 
that you would need RNS Navigation software.


Let me know which solution you go with.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 9:27 AM, allen via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
My old laptop died and I've replaced it with a 
refurbished  Panasonic Toughbook.  Nice upgrade for cheap. Windows 7 
with upgrade to 10 option


Next issue, what software to install.  For the past 20 years I've 
used CAPN for route planning and then just connected my laptop into 
the onboard GPS for cruising.


Now I've upgraded to Raymarine E units on the pedestal and in the 
nav station.  Both are equipped with Navionics cards.


I want to be able to construct routes here at home and upload them 
onto my E units.  I will take my Toughbook with its GPS dongle 
along, but that's for backup.


Seems like I have three options:
Reinstall latest and greatest version of CAPN
Install Raymarine Voyager
Install Navionics PC App
I sense the technology moving away from large systems like CAPN 
toward mobile devices.  What's the best route looking forward or am 
I looking at a tech war in progress with no clear winner in sight?


Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton VA



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--
Joel
301 541 8551


--
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Re: Stus-List Zinc decay

2015-12-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi David,

Normally zinc decay over the course of a year is attributed to 
galvanic corrosion, whereas stray current corrosion can happen 
rapidly and be very destructive. A change in Galvanic decay is 
usually associated with a change in underwater metals (new prop 
maybe) or area salinity.


Having said that... I suggest a review of these two primers and then 
inspect your bilge pump wiring very thoroughly looking for the 
slightest of corrosion and replace anything in the damp area that is 
suspect and NO JOINTS BELOW THE SOLE, please.


http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/AC%20DC%20electrolysis.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3VBBml2J0I

Cheers and Merry Christmas to all, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:47 AM 24/12/2015, you wrote:
When my boat was pulled from the water this year I was surprised to 
find that the Max-prop zinc was gone, one of the shaft zincs was 
gone and the other was nearly gone.  I have had this configuration 
in past years and every other year at the end of the season I could 
barely justify replacing them because there was so little metal 
decay.  I know of nothing I did differently this year.  I am on a 
mooring so rarely plugged into shore power.  What would cause a 
dramatic increase in zinc decay?  Thanks and Happy Holidays to all!  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[]




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Re: Stus-List Zinc decay

2015-12-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi David,

Lead is more noble than zinc (and slightly less noble than your prop 
& shaft). So, yes. A change in noble metal (increased lead surface 
exposure) by that amount can contribute to an increased loss of zinc.


We hope it's that simple.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:39 AM 24/12/2015, you wrote:
I forgot to mention one thing that might be related to the zinc 
problem.  Mid-season, I hit a rock while racing. When the boat was 
pulled, the lead was exposed in an area of about 10 square 
inches.  Could that cause zinc corrosion?  I can see that could 
create current to the keel bolts, but how would it get from there to 
the zincs?  Dave


On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:




Hi David,

Normally zinc decay over the course of a year is attributed to 
galvanic corrosion, whereas stray current corrosion can happen 
rapidly and be very destructive. A change in Galvanic decay is 
usually associated with a change in underwater metals (new prop 
maybe) or area salinity.


Having said that... I suggest a review of these two primers and 
then inspect your bilge pump wiring very thoroughly looking for the 
slightest of corrosion and replace anything in the damp area that 
is suspect and NO JOINTS BELOW THE SOLE, please.


http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/AC%20DC%20electrolysis.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3VBBml2J0I

Cheers and Merry Christmas to all, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:47 AM 24/12/2015, you wrote:
When my boat was pulled from the water this year I was surprised 
to find that the Max-prop zinc was gone, one of the shaft zincs 
was gone and the other was nearly gone.  I have had this 
configuration in past years and every other year at the end of the 
season I could barely justify replacing them because there was so 
little metal decay.  I know of nothing I did differently this 
year.  I am on a mooring so rarely plugged into shore power.  What 
would cause a dramatic increase in zinc decay?  Thanks and Happy 
Holidays to all!  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Ryan,

Like most others, my blower (3" commonly found) exhaust via an aft cowl vent.

I don't recall anyone mention that gas fumes be 
heavier than air, so the intake hose should be as 
low as practical and below the lowest possible ignition point.

I have the intake laying alongside the aft port engine mount.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:44 AM 23/12/2015, you wrote:

Hey all,

I'm looking for input on a good blower 
installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.Â  I'm almost 
through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to 
replacing the blower.Â  I removed the the old 
unit because the fan motor was dead.Â  Judging 
by the look of it, it may have been original.Â


The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so 
I'm not exactly sure how it was originally 
hooked up.Â  Although I surmise it exhausted 
through one of the two dorade vents on the 
transom.Â  I assume the other dorade vent is 
used to just allow outside air into the engeine 
compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that.


I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet 
setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm I'm looking for 
the safest and most effective way to clear my 
engine compartment of gasoline fumes.Â


Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size 
(in CFM) of the blower(s) and the proper 
diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.


Thanks!
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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

2015-12-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I do the same as Neil. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:19 PM 20/12/2015, you wrote:


I do the same as you Dennis.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Dec 20, 2015 3:04 PM, "Dennis C. via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the 
transducer to the bottom of the keel so the 
depth shown closely matches the charted 
depth.Â  I prefer to compare the depth shown on 
my instruments to the chart plotter rather than 
have to do the math all the time.Â


I know some owners use an offset so that the 
instrument shows depth under keel while others don't use any offset at all.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

2015-12-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Joel,

I'm curious as to why you spec'd Sunbrella? It's 
forte is colour-fast after years of sun exposure 
and it's not the most comfortable fabric to sit on.


I suggest talking about proper upholstery fabric 
when dealing with your supplier.


My saloon is done in leather but that might not be the best for your style.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:07 PM 17/12/2015, you wrote:

All,

Just got a quote to have the cushions in the 
main salon - U shaped dinette and straight berth 
with back cushions- recovered in Sunbrella.â Â 
Estimate was at least $2200 depending on 
fabric/extras.Â  Is that a reasonable 
price?Â  Is there any good way to DIY if you don't sew?



JoelÂ
35/3
Annapolis
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C 35 mk III

2015-12-15 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



My installation by a PO is the Neva Cool, two piece unit too.

I did some temporary insulation using mineral wool about 5 years ago. 
:) Fibreglass is too dusty. Operational routine is to shutdown at 
night and if the cruise is for more than a weekend then I load a 
block or two of ice in the bottom. I get three days on the hook, no 
problem with battery health.


If all you do is short cruises then I suggest hold off on the refrig 
project... unless you want cool at the dock too.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast

At 12:05 PM 15/12/2015, you wrote:
Our installation is a Nova Kool unit, dates back to the original 
owner. It's a two-part unit with the compressor mounted on the top 
of the drawer unit in the port lazarette. It's totally out of the 
way there and the only issue is that it doesn't have a lot of air 
flow. I'm still considering adding a small fan to ventilate it that 
only runs when the compressor is on.
I added foam insulation to the underside of the icebox top since 
it's just bare plywood otherwise.
One of my friends (Frank Walczak who I think is still on the list) 
added insulation to his box by drilling small holes from the inside 
and injecting spray foam through the holes to fill out the 
insulation. I'm considering doing the same.
Be very careful, he advised another owner on the process and said 
owner mistook 3-4 cans of spray foam for 34. Apparently he used them 
all. There was foam oozing out of bulkheads and encapsulating the stove...


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

2015-12-12 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That's the second call.!


At 04:50 PM 12/12/2015, you wrote:

I thought everybody called it the upf**ker.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 December 2015 at 22:16, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Chuck,

Maybe I should have used  in the response. 
Email message can be difficult to express 
subtleties, but I probably should have warned 
you about clarifying sailing terms here. My 
approval rating has been about 50/50 so far. 


The topping lift was never just for the main 
boom. It was in general use for any spar lift at 
the lower portion of a sail, main, stays'l or 
spinnaker. Club footed jib excepted of course 
and upper spars having other cute names, such as peak halyard.


Anyhow, these days it seems we're all correct. 
Most of us foredeck guys from the 70s & 80s 
would know the smallest wire & snap shackle is 
the top'n' lift, or later on to become the "pole lift".


And as you say, when a foredeck mate yells at 
the pit for uphaul, he really wants the inboard 
end of the spinnaker pole raised. It is 
remarkable how long it can take for this simple 
request to be acknowledged sometimes.Â  :)


But don't be too hard on newbies. If their 
source of info is the Internet they get advice from Wiki such as this:



From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This article is about the spar. For floating 
barriers to control access to harbours and 
rivers, see 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28navigational_barrier%29>boom 
(navigational barrier).
For other uses, see 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28disambiguation%29>Boom .
Â In 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sailing>sailing, 
a boom is a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spar_%28sailing%29>spar 
(pole), along the 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parts_of_a_sail#The_edges>foot 
(bottom edge) of a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fore_and_aft>fore 
 and aft rigged 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sail>sail 
,<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28sailing%29#cite_note-1> 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28sailing%29#cite_note-1>[1] 
that...Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  (good so far, but..)


The topping lift (more rarely known as an 
uphaul) is a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_%28sailing%29>line 
which applies upward force on a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28sailing%29>boom 
on a <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sailboat>sailboat.


A topping lift may also refer to a line on the 
front of the mast used to rig the spinnaker 
pole. It is used to trim the pole to the proper 
height when hoisting the <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinnaker>spinnaker.


Hoo boy. Where do we go from here?

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1





At 02:27 PM 11/12/2015, you wrote:

I like to differentiate two very different animals:
The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end.Â  The 
"Spinnaker Pole Lift" controls the Pole end 
while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the 
spin pole car on the mast, I prefer to name the 
mast control lines, "spin pole car uphaul and downhaul".


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


--
From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Russ & Melody" <<mailto:russ...@telus.net>russ...@telus.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole


Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)


At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:
Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?


--
From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Pamela & David" 
<<mailto:thesaltfam...@gmail.com>thesaltfam...@gmail.com>

Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole
Hello
Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C?
I have a tracer string inplace on a recent 
purchase boat and are looking for a quick job to replace


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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole "uphaul" ??

2015-12-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Chuck,

Maybe I should have used  in the response. Email message can be 
difficult to express subtleties, but I probably should have warned 
you about clarifying sailing terms here. My approval rating has been 
about 50/50 so far. 


The topping lift was never just for the main boom. It was in general 
use for any spar lift at the lower portion of a sail, main, stays'l 
or spinnaker. Club footed jib excepted of course and upper spars 
having other cute names, such as peak halyard.


Anyhow, these days it seems we're all correct. Most of us foredeck 
guys from the 70s & 80s would know the smallest wire & snap shackle 
is the top'n' lift, or later on to become the "pole lift".


And as you say, when a foredeck mate yells at the pit for uphaul, he 
really wants the inboard end of the spinnaker pole raised. It is 
remarkable how long it can take for this simple request to be 
acknowledged sometimes.  :)


But don't be too hard on newbies. If their source of info is the 
Internet they get advice from Wiki such as this:



From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This article is about the spar. For floating barriers to control 
access to harbours and rivers, see 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28navigational_barrier%29>boom 
(navigational barrier).
For other uses, see 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28disambiguation%29>Boom.
 In <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sailing>sailing, a boom is a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spar_%28sailing%29>spar (pole), 
along the 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parts_of_a_sail#The_edges>foot 
(bottom edge) of a <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fore_and_aft>fore 
and aft rigged 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sail>sail,<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28sailing%29#cite_note-1>[1] 
that...   (good so far, but..)


The topping lift (more rarely known as an uphaul) is a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_%28sailing%29>line which 
applies upward force on a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boom_%28sailing%29>boom on a 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sailboat>sailboat.


A topping lift may also refer to a line on the front of the mast 
used to rig the spinnaker pole. It is used to trim the pole to the 
proper height when hoisting the 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinnaker>spinnaker.


Hoo boy. Where do we go from here?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 02:27 PM 11/12/2015, you wrote:

I like to differentiate two very different animals:
The Topping Lift" goes to the boom end.  The "Spinnaker Pole Lift" 
controls the Pole end while there is an uphaul and downhaul on the 
spin pole car on the mast, I prefer to name the mast control lines, 
"spin pole car uphaul and downhaul".


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


--
From: "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Russ & Melody" <russ...@telus.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:38:01 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole


Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)


At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:
Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?


--
From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Pamela & David" <thesaltfam...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

Hello

Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C?

I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are 
looking for a quick job to replace


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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

2015-12-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Do you mean the top'n' lift? :)


At 02:25 PM 10/12/2015, you wrote:

Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?


--
From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Pamela & David" 
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

Hello

Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C?

I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are 
looking for a quick job to replace


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Re: Stus-List Boat tools

2015-12-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Dave,

I'm with you on this. I have an ancient breast drill, seldom used but 
it's gotta be on the boat. Perhaps it's the only drill you can use underwater.


When it comes out for show & tell, I call it "my cordless drill".
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/breast+drill

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast, very windy & kinda damp

At 06:49 PM 08/12/2015, you wrote:
I keep a manual hand drill on the boat-  yard sale item, I  use it 
fairly often.  Batteries never die.

Dave


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:24:11 -0600
From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
Message-ID:

<CANir+yu2eX19XK3NrC-g=sudpzv0n+tnkvrzfgz+9tt6zue...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Rick,

Go with the Makita!  I love mine.  Several listers also have the Makita.

Dennis C.


On Tue, Dec 8, 2015 at 7:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


And my other Christmas present to myself will be a good quality (likely
Makita or Bosch) 18 volt drill driver with 2 lithium batteries. Every
cansarned time I get out the drill on the boat, the NICad batteries are
dead. That one is going into the garage where a battery can be kept on the
charger.


Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Bad Build

2015-12-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



The article info indicates the keel attachment is okay.

But hooee, that keel stub looks like the integrity is about as good 
as a  : politician, Catholic priest, lawyer, J-boat 
PHRF rating


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast

At 06:16 PM 04/12/2015, you wrote:

A while back there was a conversation between me and another c 
owner about pretty dismal keel attachments.

Ahmet
On Dec 4, 2015 6:02 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Interesting read about what appears to be some shoddy construction methods.

Thanks to C& C for doing things right.

http://www.sailfeed.com/2015/12/another-major-keel-failure-what-really-happened-to-polina-star-iii/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter_medium=email_content=textlink_campaign=enewsletter


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


>

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

2015-11-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Fred,

Thanks for the link. I think maybe I should get
one of my Instrument mechanics to see if they can
come up with a value for the thermistor.
Otherwise I might just grab a few and do it on a trial basis.

When it first started failing, years ago, I
mentioned it at a C rendezvous and got a "don't
worry, it happens all the time" kinda response. I
would like to credit Jim but now I can't be sure.
And when the one on Amazing Grace went too I came
to believe it is common. Or maybe the Strait of
Georgia is responding well to the promise of
global warming and really is 120.4 degrees :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast

At 06:44 PM 29/11/2015, you wrote:
This is the first one Iâve heard of that
failed. Usually theyâre very
reliable. Itâs just a thermistor potted in the transducer housing:

<http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_636.pdf>http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_636.pdf

No info on the value of the thermistor...

Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(

On Nov 27, 2015, at 6:47 PM, Russ & Melody via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Now, how about the unreliability issue with the
temperature sensing element of the Raymarine
transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what
value, so I can haywire something in stead of it?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped
below freezing on some nights now!

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

2015-11-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Eric,

I didn't see all of your questions answered in 
the batch of replies. Don't worry, it's not 
unusual for this beloved group o' squirrel chasers :)
- there is no practical way for you to test the 
old transducer out of the water
- nothing happens if you try, no damage but it 
needs water as a medium to conduct the sound waves
- no harm in using the old Xducer to the new 
instrument, but as pointed out deep depth 
resolution is lost by not be able to access 50 kHz
I would put low expectation on the temperature 
part of the Raymarine transducer. Mine only 
lasted 2 years before it failed. I believe that is not uncommon.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 07:27 PM 25/11/2015, you wrote:
I am replacing depth, speed and wind instruments 
on Cats Paw with i50 and i60 Raymarine 
instruments.  As noted in an ongoing thread, it 
is difficult to remove the old depth transducer, 
so is it possible to use the old one with the 
new Raymarine display?  The old transducer is 
for a Signet Scientific MK172 instrument, which 
is probably more than 12 years old but still 
works fine.  In the manual, it states that The 
transmitter produces six pulses per second at an 
amplitude of 450 volts peak·to·peak with 63 
watts of power output per pulse. The high power 
output is obtained by charging a large capacitor 
to build a large current flow without heavy 
drain from the external power source. The 
frequency is adjustable from 160 to 200 kHz but 
is set at the factory for 200 kHz nominal.  The 
transducer that came with the Raymarine 
instruments is an Airmar P319, listed on the tag 
on its cable as 50/200 KHz. That transducer also 
measures temperature, but I would be happy to 
forgo that if I didnt have to change the 
transducer.  Is there a way of testing if the 
old transducer works with the new display while 
the boat is on the hard (for the winter)?  What 
happens if you test a transducer when it is 
completely out of water?  Would it harm the 
Raymarine instrument to be connected to the old transducer?


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Keel repair

2015-11-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi David & John,

With all due respect, I suggest you investigate 
the conditions of filing a claim immediately.
I have a colleague who tells about having 
initiated a house claim on the advice of the 
insurance broker but it did not proceed with any 
work being done by the insurance company and it 
was still treated as a claim even though nothing 
was paid out. Insurance can be a tough racket. 
There is lots of profit to protect.


For your own piece of mind get someone 
knowledgeable to have a look. The best area of 
interest to start looking at is the aft end of 
the keel area inside the boat, especially if you 
have the grid or ladder structure.


Marine Tex is good for small repairs but a little 
on the expensive side if it's going to require a lot.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 05:12 PM 20/11/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/related;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0010_01D123CF.C38F0EB0"
Content-Language: en-us

David

Is your insurance up to date and premium 
paid??  A hard grounding that removes lead is by 
definition a serious stress on the keel and 
associated hull structure and needs to be 
addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a claim 
and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your 
keel, sump, surrounding hull and interior.  Get 
whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be 
confident in your boats integrity.  Remember 
that a crack shows something has in fact failed 
 the only question is how bad??  Arguably the 
best fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel


Best of luck


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Keel repair

Aries is now finally out of the water and I had 
a chance to survey the damage to the keel from 
my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I 
actually received a special award from the Race 
Committee for going up on the ledge during a 
race and needing to be towed off.  In my 
defense, the marker buoy was 100 yards from 
where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.
The front edge of the keel is well smashed in 
over about a 6 inch area where it looks like the 
lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I 
would pound it back into shape and then smooth, 
but that does not look possible now that I see 
it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested 
using Marine Tex epoxy putty to fill in the 
missing volume and then smooth (angle 
grinder?)  I am hoping that the experts on this 
list can give me some guidance as to how to tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[]





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Re: Stus-List Cabin heat

2015-11-17 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



If you just drank the vodka there would be no emergency. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, B.C. South Coast

At 09:26 PM 15/11/2015, you wrote:

That's just denatured alcohol. You could burn vodka in an emergency.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 November 2015 at 11:31, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


That is really cute. An excellent gift or conversation piece.

But for practical purposes, with fuel at 10 
bucks per litre and a fuel density only 55% of 
kerosene.. I'll keep my little Force Ten kero heater for bulk warming.


Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1, B.C. South Coast

At 10:48 AM 14/11/2015, you wrote:

It's getting cold up north.ÃÂ  Here's something to warm your cabin.ÃÂ  :)

< http://www.hammacher.com/Product/Default.aspx?sku=86860>

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Cabin heat

2015-11-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That is really cute. An excellent gift or conversation piece.

But for practical purposes, with fuel at 10 bucks 
per litre and a fuel density only 55% of 
kerosene.. I'll keep my little Force Ten kero heater for bulk warming.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, B.C. South Coast

At 10:48 AM 14/11/2015, you wrote:

It's getting cold up north.Â  Here's something to warm your cabin.Â  :)

<http://www.hammacher.com/Product/Default.aspx?sku=86860>

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

2015-11-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Gary,

I'm reminded of a quote from John Lennon,

  Everything will be okay in the end. If 
it's not okay, it's not the end.


Good luck with the window project. It's a 
seasonal thread here, kinda like Christmas but without the merry.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:54 PM 11/11/2015, you wrote:

Gary,

Dont get discouraged. It will work out.

Thats what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered 
really good suggestions I decided to gen-up a 
quick post in my blog showing the tools that I 
have use and am using for the same project.


Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Roninâs Overdue Refit

On Nov 11, 2015, at 3:04 PM, Gary Russell via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Pete,
 I spent about an hour yesterday with the 
Multi-Tool and the carbide triangular rasp, 
and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of 
Plexus.  That leaves me about 16 hours of 
grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but 
the damage done was extensive.  And as I get 
more tired (remember the 16 hours), then I 
will get more careless and do more damage.  I 
tried making a fixture for my router to remove 
a window with the adhesive, and it would 
probably work, but one slip of the fixture and 
I would have a hole through the coach 
roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I 
though it too risky.  Also, the fixture would 
only work with an intact window and would not 
clean up the damage from the window I've 
already removed.  At this point I am really discouraged.


Gary
S/V High Maintenance
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

2015-11-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Martin& Dave,

I've been involved with 4 in-the-water boat deck 
restorations here in an area just north of the 
PNW, (around Lat 49' 10 - 30" N.)


Since winter is a good time for in-the-water boat 
work in our area, all were covered with a 2x4 & 
1x4 framework peaked over the boom and covered in 
plastic (poly or trap) down to the 
toe-rail.   All marinas have a "no sanding" 
policy but not one of us suffered a complaint, 
maybe due to the containment, lack of traffic at 
this time of year and good vacuum practices.  Or 
perhaps because we are all, just good fellows. I like to believe the latter. :)


As you might imagine, these enclosures are very 
pleasant to work in during our typical winter.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, B.C. South Coast


At 06:25 PM 11/11/2015, you wrote:


> quick post in my blog showing the tools


Dave,

I took a look at your new blog post detailing 
the tools you have used on the window frame clean up.  Nice write up, thanks.


I am jealous about your having access to 
compressed air and working where you can use 
it.  Where Calypso is moored there are 
restrictions on what work can be done in a 
slip.  I am already dancing down the line with 
electric sanding/grinding equipment and I am 
sure running a compressor and air tools would get me kicked out.


I believe many of the cnc-listers that are 
facing a DIY window or other deck 
repair/replacement project need to limit the 
mess, repainting, or do not have the experience 
and confidence to perform âbody and fenderâ 
type work on the shiny parts of a boat.  I 
recall the day when Calypsoâs co-owner and I 
finally faced up to the amount of repair 
Calypsoâs deck needed and accepted a full 
repaint would be needed.  Once freed from the 
need to limit shiny paint damage we got out the 
big boy grinding and sanding equipment which 
greatly sped up the early phases of the repairs.


This month marked to point where way more hand 
sanding is needed with the resulting wear and 
tear on the arms and wrists (as you mention in 
your blog post).  I have been using hand sanding 
blocks and foam shapes (purchased from auto body 
repair equip sources) to improve the hand 
sanding ergonomics especially around the many 
corners and rounded shapes of a C  The sticky 
back sand paper option increased efficiency over 
the old school paper clamps.  I have had good 
luck sourcing abrasives through several web 
sites including Industrial Abrasives.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 2:54 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Gary,

Donât get discouraged. It will work out.

Thatâs what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered 
really good suggestions I decided to gen-up a 
quick post in my blog showing the tools that I 
have use and am using for the same project.


Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Roninâs Overdue Refit
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Re: Stus-List smart phones

2015-11-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Good morning Dwight,

I always include my name in the salutation. And 
most times, it also has the boat name & place.


Cheers, Russ


At 02:58 AM 01/11/2015, you wrote:

Back at ya Russ or should I say melody who knows for sure?

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
<mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 1:23 AM, Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Umm. Okay Dwight. Thanks for sharing.

Your time stamp looks like it's getting late on 
the eastern seaboard. Maybe back off on the 
whine a bit. And those funny field codes looks 
like you sent from a smart phone.


So I guess my question is, if it's a smart phone 
then how did your message get through?Â  :)


Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:39 PM 30/10/2015, you wrote:
most of these guys apparently don't care about 
the subject line...so sending these 
instructions won't change things, just let them 
contribute to whatever about their boats and 
experiences and forget the subject line 
crap...just say all subjects C sailboat 
related stuff, we're all interested in 
everything sailboat related...that's the way I 
regard these emails, all related to sailing 
somehow, read them or not ...ok You can ban me 
from further communication the topics are 
getting pretty old anywayÃ Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã 
Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã Ã ÃÂ


Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
<mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Stu via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Terry et al
Ã
When replying to a message from your email 
program  leavee thee subject intact as it 
should refer to the topic being discussed.

Ã
If you are starting a new thread, send an email 
to the list with an appropriate subject line.

Ã
Yes, it will make searching the archives a lot simpler.
Ã
Remember too, when replying to a message, to 
trim off the previous messages.ÃÂ  There is no 
reason to send a 60k message when 10 would have done it.

Ã
Stu


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Re: Stus-List smart phones

2015-11-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Okay then, this is timely.

http://dilbert.com/strip/2015-11-01


Cheers to all, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east Vancouver Island

P.S. I will be away from this machine for a 
while. Race day, out of Schooner Cove, with a nice forecast if you like breeze.

http://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecast_e.html?mapID=03=14301



On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Stu via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Terry et al
Ã
When replying to a message from your email 
program  leavee thee subject intact as it 
should refer to the topic being discussed.

Ã
If you are starting a new thread, send an email 
to the list with an appropriate subject line.

Ã
Yes, it will make searching the archives a lot simpler.
Ã
Remember too, when replying to a message, to 
trim off the previous messages.ÃÂ  There is no 
reason to send a 60k message when 10 would have done it.

Ã
Stu
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Stus-List smart phones



Umm. Okay Dwight. Thanks for sharing.

Your time stamp looks like it's getting late on 
the eastern seaboard. Maybe back off on the whine 
a bit. And those funny field codes looks like you sent from a smart phone.


So I guess my question is, if it's a smart phone 
then how did your message get through?  :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:39 PM 30/10/2015, you wrote:
most of these guys apparently don't care about 
the subject line...so sending these instructions 
won't change things, just let them contribute to 
whatever about their boats and experiences and 
forget the subject line crap...just say all 
subjects C sailboat related stuff, we're all 
interested in everything sailboat 
related...that's the way I regard these emails, 
all related to sailing somehow, read them or not 
...ok You can ban me from further communication 
the topics are getting pretty old anywayÂ Â Â Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â 
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â


Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Stu via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Terry et al
Â
When replying to a message from your email 
program  leave thee subject intact as it should 
refer to the topic being discussed.

Â
If you are starting a new thread, send an email 
to the list with an appropriate subject line.

Â
Yes, it will make searching the archives a lot simpler.
Â
Remember too, when replying to a message, to 
trim off the previous messages.Â  There is no 
reason to send a 60k message when 10 would have done it.

Â
Stu
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents



Joel, all vents should be looped as high as 
practical. That is just common sense and anything is sloppy workmanship.


Joe, my fuel fill is on the outboard sloped 
portion of the combing so spillage ends up in the 
same area as the vent opening, easy to catch with 
paper towel in place before filling. The vent 
loop makes the fill & vent heights practically the same.


Since these are original installation locations, 
if I was offered compliance grief from any 
surveyor, insurer or regulatory type I would send 
them back to review the "code of construction" for 1972.

If you're happy with your installation then send 'em packing.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:32 AM 30/10/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_370b7b2b46f84cdcbc23bbe624d15399NSCDAG306baadssagov_"

Apples and oranges.
The fill  where you add fuel  on the 35 MK I 
is on top of of the coaming. If you are a sloppy 
refueler some ends up on deck and some in the 
cockpit. This does not meet 2015 ABYC specs, 
although in all the decades I have been fueling 
my boat this has not proved a significant issue.
The vent on the 35 MK I is on the side of the 
coaming, so overflow does not end up in the 
cockpit. It also is significantly harder to 
submerge than it would be on the side of the hull.

Agree about a loop  no reason I can seee not to do that.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, October 30, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

Would it make sense to put a loop in the hose 
that runs up under the coaming if you are using 
the original vent so that water would have to 
get to the top of the loop before entering the tank?


On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 9:09 AM, ed vanderkruk 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


ABYC and USCG requirements say that fuel exiting 
the fuel fill at 5 gpm for 5  seconds cannot 
enter the cockpit while in its static floating 
position. So it depends on the slope of the 
coaming. If it doesn't slope outwards most 
likely some would spill into to cockpit.


There are requirements for separation of fuel 
vent and other hull openings of 15 inches but 
that it likely not difficult to comply with.


Ed
On Oct 29, 2015 3:57 PM, "Dennis C. via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I suspect many of boats experiencing water 
ingress through the fuel vent have a similar 
configuration.  That is, the fill fitting in the 
deck and the fuel vent in the hull side just under the toe/rub rail.
My 35-1 is different.  The fuel fill is not in 
the deck.  The fuel fill fitting is well aft in 
the top of the port side cockpit coaming.  The 
fuel vent is also well aft exiting the side of 
the cockpit coaming a few inches above the 
deck.  For water to get into the fuel vent the 
deck of the boat at the stern would have to be 
awash 2-4 inches deep.  I have never ever seen 
water higher than a couple feet below the 
taffrail atop the transom.  If water was 
anywhere close to entering the fuel vent I think 
I would be concerned about a lot more than water in the fuel.  :)
Would it be smart?  Possible?  ABYC compliant? 
to move a deck mounted fuel fill up to the top 
of the cockpit coaming and move the vent to the 
side of the coaming like my 35-1 and reduce the potential for water ingress?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents



The best of vents will have the high point of the 
loop on centreline.  Not practically achievable 
on many boats and the extra hose cost and perhaps 
tortuously labour to install is not tolerated by most... but it is "Cadillac".

You will probably be sinking by the time water enters the fuel tank...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:19 AM 30/10/2015, you wrote:

Russ,
Until this thread, I never gave it a second 
thought.Â  I don't know if there is a loop in 
mine or not, but I'll find out!Â  The fuel fill 
hose and vent hose are still original as far as 
I can tell.Â  I hope the guys up north were 
generous with the use of vent hose in 
1983.Â  Probably time to change both hoses 
anyhow- they are the last of the original.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 12:52 PM, Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Joel, all vents should be looped as high as 
practical. That is just common sense and anything is sloppy workmanship.


Joe, my fuel fill is on the outboard sloped 
portion of the combing so spillage ends up in 
the same area as the vent opening, easy to catch 
with paper towel in place before filling. The 
vent loop makes the fill & vent heights practically the same.


Since these are original installation locations, 
if I was offered compliance grief from any 
surveyor, insurer or regulatory type I would 
send them back to review the "code of construction" for 1972.

If you're happy with your installation then send 'em packing.

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:32 AM 30/10/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â 
Â  boundary="_000_370b7b2b46f84cdcbc23bbe624d15399NSCDAG306baadssagov_"


Apples and oranges.
The fill  where you add fuel  on the 35 MK I 
is on top of of of the coaming. If you are a 
sloppy refueler some ends up on deck and some 
in the cockpit. This does not meet 2015 ABYC 
specs, although in all the decades I have been 
fueling my boat this has not proved a significant issue.
The vent on the 35 MK I is on the side of the 
coaming, so overflow does not end up in the 
cockpit. It also is significantly harder to 
submerge than it would be on the side of the hull.

Agree about a loop  no reason I can seee not to do that.

Â
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
Â
From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, October 30, 2015 9:26 AM
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents
Â
Would it make sense to put a loop in the hose 
that runs up under the coaming if you are using 
the original vent so that water would have to 
get to the top of the loop before entering the tank?

Â
On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 9:09 AM, ed vanderkruk 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


ABYC and USCG requirements say that fuel 
exiting the fuel fill at 5 gpm for 5Â  seconds 
cannot enter the cockpit while in its static 
floating position. So it depends on the slope 
of the coaming. If it doesn't slope outwards 
most likely some would spill into to cockpit.


There are requirements for separation of fuel 
vent and other hull openings of 15 inches but 
that it likely not difficult to comply with.


Ed
On Oct 29, 2015 3:57 PM, "Dennis C. via 
CnC-List" <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I suspect many of boats experiencing water 
ingress through the fuel vent have a similar 
configuration.Â  That is, the fill fitting in 
the deck and the fuel vent in the hull side just under the toe/rub rail.
My 35-1 is different.Â  The fuel fill is not in 
the deck.Â  The fuel fill fitting is well aft 
in the top of the port side cockpit 
coaming.Â  The fuel vent is also well aft 
exiting the side of the cockpit coaming a few 
inches above the deck.Â  For water to get into 
the fuel vent the deck of the boat at the stern 
would have to be awash 2-4 inches deep.Â  I 
have never ever seen water higher than a couple 
feet below the taffrail atop the transom.Â  If 
water was anywhere close to entering the fuel 
vent I think I would be concerned about a lot 
more than water in the fuel.Â  :)
Would it be smart?Â  Possible?Â  ABYC 
compliant? to move a deck mounted fuel fill up 
to the top of the cockpit coaming and move the 
vent to the side of the coaming like my 35-1 
and reduce the potential for water ingress?

Â
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Â
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Stus-List new thread or topic


Hi Terry,

I'm lazy, so just hit "reply", delete unnecessary junk from the 
message body and change/edit the subject line.

Hit "send"

I did just that. :)

Cheers, Russ


At 11:55 AM 30/10/2015, you wrote:
I am new to this email forum thing and don't want to hijack the 
discussion, but could someone tell me how to start a new topic?

Thank you

Sent from my ...



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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

2015-10-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



On the subject of exhaust line valves:
   * install at any (convenient) point along the 
line (caveat, waterlift has enough capacity to 
receive "hose dump" when valve opened)
   * ball valve is good if they are full bore 
(many have a reduced diameter at the ball)
   * gate valve should be installed "upside 
down" so if the gate separates from the spindle 
it still has a chance of working properly (by gravity)
   * good practice is to have a tag or simple 
key system interlocking the [engine start - raw 
water valve - engine water valve] to reduce errors

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 02:00 PM 27/10/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/related;
boundary="_004_23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357DDFC895DMI3DMIlocal_";
type="multipart/alternative"

Dave,


One of Calypsoâs prior owners or the factory 
added an exhaust shut off gate valve.  It is one 
of the few fittings we have not replaced or 
upgraded in the last 16 years.  It is frozen 
open but I have a slight concern the gate will 
drop and unexpectedly close off the 
exhaust.Are ball valves currently considered 
the âbest practiceâ for this use?


For the auto pilot tiller arm; Calypsoâs 
rudder shaft had a long enough key way that the 
autopilot tiller arm can share with the 
quadrant. I also bolted the two together for 
mutual support should one loosen up at an awkward time.


Calypsoâs radar reflector is assembled around 
the back stay with small lines top and bottom to 
stabilize.  I was able to meet the height above 
the deck (and above the radar antenna) 
requirement by using a ladder to install.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Paine via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 11:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Paine
Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Hi All,

As I mentioned last spring as part of a question 
about life rafts, I had planned to sail  my 
C  solo to Bermuda and back (double 
handed) in the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was 
fun, it was terrifying, it was expensive to 
prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not 
do well (dfl) in my class in part because of the 
high winds and seas near the gulf stream 
probably favored the  HR49 and other 
heavyweights in my class but mostly because I 
was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of 
course, a C won the return and did well on 
the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor 
not the boat.  In preparation for the next one, 
I need to resolve a few issues with the boat and 
a lot with the skipper.  I was putting together 
a list that I thought I would share.


(1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet 
proof.   I thought my below deck pilot was, but 
I was wrong, and as a result I found myself 
upside down in the cockpit locker and crawling 
deep underneath the cockpit floor in horrible 
conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the 
tiller arm to slip (no woodruff key or slot to 
put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing around 
with the sails down repairing the autopilot or 
sleeping.   The fix for this one is obvious but 
will require dismantling the quadrant and 
figuring out how to bolt the tiller arm to 
it.  Other issues with the autopilot were 
completely my own fault as I made changes to the 
electronics but did not have time to proof test the changes.


(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets 
flooded (and it did repeatedly) the engine 
instruments are going to get wet.  This is not 
good as the switches will (and did) fail, I am 
considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.


(3) Following seas WILL drive water up the 
tailpipe and into the engine.  As a result, I 
sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the 
customs dock then I spent a day in Bermuda 
sucking water out of the engine and drying it 
out enough to get it started.   For the return 
trip, I put a plug in the exhaust pipe but the 
plug was washed out in the "washing machine like 
conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into 
the Newport Yacht Club dock at 3:00 am on no 
sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily 
water out of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.


(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on 
the starboard side but by the time I got to 
Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it 
(which I siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) 
helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the 
question is where?  It may not be wise but on 
the return trip I wrapped the vent with tape 
(which, if I had run the engine I would have 
removed)   A better solution is needed.


(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent 
far too much time screwing up enough courage to 
go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My 
current reefing system (probably original to the 
boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the 
first reef fine but I used all three

Re: Stus-List Dirty work this week.

2015-10-26 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Look on the bright side Dennis.

At least you're not looking for winterizing help. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

mild, damp & sailing this weekend

At 08:24 PM 26/10/2015, you wrote:
Crap!Â  The recent strong rains and a strong 
easterly wind has raised the water level in Lake 
Pontchartrain and in my marina.Â  Caught me by 
surprise.Â  I monitor a water gauge near the 
marina.Â  At 2.5 feet, the water is level with 
the pier.Â  It got to 4.4 and is currently at 
3.6. It was about 2 feet over the piers.Â  It 
may go down enough by tomorrow to start pressure 
washing the mud off the dock boards.Â  That's always dirty work.


I just hope the water didn't get in my stuff in 
the dock box.Â  I keep everything in buckets and 
tubs but if it gets high enough the tubs flood.Â  More dirty work.


Didn't go over to check on things today because 
I didn't want to wade through 300 yards of fire ants and snakes.Â  :(


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

2015-10-26 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Steve,

The booze is not wasted.
Years ago on this list there was such a thread about using vodka as 
the anti-freeze and the guy's observation that he got lots of help 
with spring commissioning. Just add orange juice & friends.


Cheers, Russ


At 08:37 PM 26/10/2015, you wrote:

 
 I don't know why you would have rubber parts in a hot water tank, 
and barring that I don't see how pure alcohol would hurt, but I 
agree with the other comments that suggest that it is probably a 
waste of good booze.


Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: John Russo via CnC-List
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 20:20
Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after 
draining as an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when 
using hot water. The drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of 
the tank so there is always some residual water left in the tank and 
although I leave the drain valve open for expansion I am concerned 
that any freezing could damage the tank connections. Any advice 
would be appreciated.




John

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk, CT


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Re: Stus-List boom


Hi Harald,

Mine will do that too if I allow. Normal practice on Sweet (with 
rigid vang) is to set main halyard to boom end and adjust for desired 
height, tension a utility line from boom end to a side fitting (toe 
rail, footblock, etc.) and tension the mainsheet with traveller drawn 
to opposite side.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:24 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and 
still no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?


Harald
Kitchener, On

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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull


Hi Edd,

A well regarded sign paint is called One Shot.
http://www.1shot.com/One-Shot/index.aspx

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


  At 07:52 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:

Listers,

After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting 
to wear down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, 
I was thinking of peeling the stuff off and painting the 
name/graphics on. What type of paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log














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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!



Hi David,

Well, I guess you can forget about warming up under load when you get 
'er running. I didn't think about that weird ritual, hauling boats 
from the water, that you guys, who are beyond Hope, do each year.


For me, anything an hour & a half east of Vancouver is beyond Hope :)
https://www.google.ca/maps/@49.3891711,-121.5364525,12z

cheers, Russ

At 12:47 AM 22/10/2015, you wrote:
Thanks all for the words of advice!  I'm going to be a wreck until 
Sunday when I can get there to try to resolve this situation.


So here's how I managed to do this:

I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the 
water.  First I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 
30-45 minutes, while I got everything ready.  After I shut it down 
and closed the raw water intake seacock, here was my winterizing 
plan:  5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, filled with pink 
antifreeze.  A length of hose running through the opening port in 
the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, connected 
to the raw water side of the water strainer.  Seemed simple enough: 
I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding 
more if necessary.


My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze.  I 
was just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose 
from the end up in the cockpit; no pressure.  It didn't occur to me 
that the small height differential would be enough to push water 
past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but apparently it 
did.  I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to start 
the engine, and it wouldn't turn over.  At first I thought the 
batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup 
a few moments earlier.  I stabbed the button a couple of times, and 
then it dawned on me.


I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the 
manifold riser, and sure enough, pink poured out.  Perhaps I'm 
having a stupid moment but I'm really still scratching my head over 
this.  I really didn't pour much down the hose, just a couple of 
cups.   But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that the contents of the 
cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion 
protection I'm hoping.


Until sunday...

-Dave




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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!