Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

There's an external bow thruster on a Fortune 30 at our Club. My 
first remark to the Admiral was, "Look at the drag on that thing!"


Any weeds in your area? It also looks like a weed trap. We often go 
through "tide line" o' weeds on the surface around here.


After owning full keeled cruisers for 30 years before getting the C 
I can't imagine needing one. But if you must, how about a stern 
thruster? Less obtrusive and you might be clever enough to make it 
retractable. (Think electric outboard motor on a pivot arm like those 
d'flatable dinghy wheels for haulin' up a beach.)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:10 AM 27/09/2015, you wrote:

Listers,

Was at the Norwalk Boat Show yesterday and there was a bow thruster 
company there which had a product that looked interesting. It was a 
bow thruster "pod" that mounts under the hull (as opposed to a 
tunnel thruster that goes through the hull).


Easier install, can run 5 minutes nonstop without overheating, 
wireless control, etc.


Is anyone using one of these types? Any disadvantages? I guess my 
biggest concern is the drag factor -- will it cost me a half knot or more?



All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
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Re: Stus-List water missing from somewhere

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Good idea on using that area for stowage.

Unless you sail with a mid-wife I don't see much 
point in having a birthing area on the boat. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island where it's finally sunny again

At 10:36 AM 25/09/2015, you wrote:

Jim,

If your water lines are the original grey tubing 
then replacing the lines are a good idea.  I 
would also recommend replacing the fill 
hose(they get pretty funky and are cheap to 
replace).   Take the time to inspect the water 
tanks. I found a crack midway up on the tank in 
the V-birth.  I removed this tank and now use 
the V-birth space for extra storage.   I am in 
the process of replacing all of my lines with Pex.


If you have not yet, check out Wally’s 
site: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/index.htm



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


On Sep 24, 2015, at 9:58 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


 It might ne time to replace all water lines anyway.?



   Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 hull #4just west of Ballard, WA.


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Re: Stus-List water missing from somewhere

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,

After I sent the message a thought occurred, 
"maybe that's why the water broke?" ... but that 
might be a little to obscure for the list so I just laughed out loud at myself.


Sometimes, I'm easily amused.

Cheers, Russ

At 07:42 PM 25/09/2015, you wrote:

I do have a mid-wife sailing with me - but I've 
held firm on keeping our jobs off the boat!  V-birth are strictly off limits!


--

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George SantayanaOn 2015-09-25 7:54 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Good idea on using that area for stowage.

Unless you sail with a mid-wife I don't see 
much point in having a birthing area on the boat. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island where it's finally sunny again

At 10:36 AM 25/09/2015, you wrote:

Jim,

If your water lines are the original grey 
tubing then replacing the lines are a good 
idea.  I would also recommend replacing the 
fill hose(they get pretty funky and are cheap 
to replace).   Take the time to inspect the 
water tanks. I found a crack midway up on the 
tank in the V-birth.  I removed this tank and 
now use the V-birth space for extra 
storage.   I am in the process of replacing all of my lines with Pex.


If you have not yet, check out Wally’s 
site: 
<http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/index.htm>http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/index.htm



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
<http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com>http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


On Sep 24, 2015, at 9:58 PM, 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


 It might ne time to replace all water lines anyway.?



   Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 hull #4just west of Ballard, WA.


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Re: Stus-List C 30 main halyard size

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Scott,

We went back to wire & rope halyards for better reliability in the 
stoppers (rope clutch). Even increasing the diameter at the stopper 
interface improved but did not eliminate the occasional fail. Modern 
cordage is wonderful but not necessary from a competitive advantage 
unless you are consistently missing first place by a few seconds. 
Crew improvement just with tacking can be minutes gained, yada yada.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 12:08 PM 19/09/2015, you wrote:
This fall one of my projects will be to replace worn out sheaves at 
the base of the mast ,
Pull the upper pulley at the masthead and machine in a bronze 
bushing. It still has wire to rope halyard and am either going to 
replace with a new one or change out to all rope. My question is 
what size has anyone used on a c 30 mki (1972). I know all rope is 
the go to choice nowadays but I like the feel of the larger diameter 
rope end of the wire to rope. Thanks in advance for any insight or 
experience , Scott



Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Bronze Steering Quadrant

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rich,

I'll check Salerosa's r/stock diameter tomorrow and let you know.

Back in Nanaimo after our too long road trip.

Cheers, Russ

At 05:50 PM 19/09/2015, you wrote:
During the fall cleanup at work, we have 
unearthed a brand new 10” radius bronze 
steering quadrant machined with keyway to fit a 
2 ½” rudder post. It is similar in appearance 
to that shown at 
http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm. 
It is not an Edson. It had “C 41” written 
in felt marker on it and I presume someone 
ordered it some time ago and failed to pick it 
up. If it’s of any use to someone, any offer 
over $200 plus shipping will get it. A bit of 
work with a saw would turn it into a very nice 
steering arm for a below decks autopilot ram.


Pictures available upon request

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Still Boatless!









Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





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Re: Stus-List boat names

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

If you're going for cute then ya can't lose with 
the Bond girls. A friend named his boat Honey Rider.
A few good choices for the racing crowd appeal: 
Xenia Onatopp, Octopussy, Plenty O'Toole, Dr. 
Holly Goodhead, Pussy Galore and the little one 
who made a brief appearance, Chu Mi (sometimes spelled as the vulgar Chew Mee).


Complete list here:
http://www.007james.com/articles/list_of_james_bond_girls.php

And very important is de-naming her properly as 
per ceremony. This is the one we used:

http://www.johnvigor.com/Denaming.html
John Vigor has an interesting blog too.


Good luck, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 03:39 AM 17/09/2015, you wrote:
OK when I got it, I cracked up! Those are both 
great names! Thanks DavidOn Sep 16, 2015 10:09 
PM, David Lenehan via CnC-List 
 wrote: > > Danny, > > 
There are lots of very innovative boat names 
over here in Australia.  Rather than bore you 
with a whole raft of them, I'll mention two that 
have always stuck out in my mind. > > The first 
is "Waikikamukau".  For all the world this name 
looks very Kiwi (New Zealand) or even 
Polynesian.  The boat owner was constantly 
pounded with questions about the origin of this 
name as you might imagine.  But stop scratching 
your head and try to pronounce it.  Then you'll 
start to realise he was having a piece of 
everyone.  Just in case you are having trouble, 
I'll break it up for you:Â  Wai-kik-a-mu-kau > > 
The other stand out name came from a skipper who 
was entering his yacht into upcoming Australian 
and world championship regattas.  He turned up 
to register his brand new boat about an hour 
before the deadline.  Because he had no name 
for the boat they wouldn't accept his 
entry.  He walked out of th eyacht club and 
right in front of him was a road condition 
warning sign.  He immediately walked back in 
and registered his boat as "Slippery When 
Wet". > > > Maybe that will assist your 
imagination, > David > > On 17 September 2015 at 
11:53, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote: >> >> OK coming 
up with a new name for our new boat is proving 
very difficult. >> >> I thought I would throw it 
out to you guys for some ideas! >> >> Maybe you 
came across something sometime and thought wow 
what a great name for a boat! >> >> I can't 
believe this is so difficult... Lol >> >> 
Danny >> 
___ > 
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Re: Stus-List boat names

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Is he dyslectic?

As in, "Dyslectics unite, there is a dog!"

Cheers, Russ


At 09:59 AM 17/09/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_1103275_1019712278.1442509185447"
Content-Length: 1011

A fellow here couldn't think of a name, so he called it TDB (to be 
determined).

Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

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Re: Stus-List boat names

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,

Good luck in your search, do take some time with it. Good timing on 
my part to be commenting after Edd.


A most important consideration... are you using the boat for cruising 
or racing?


If for racing then the primary consideration is how your ego will 
fare when your peers consider her name. For this situation, something 
cute and witty is appropriate.

 One of my favourites is Dilligaf (as in, do I look like I give a...).


If for cruising. Can she wear your wife's name (and will you be 
married to her longer than you have the boat)? Years ago, when we got 
the old hooker as a hull & deck project the name issue was not easy. 
After some time I took a photo (this is a rectangular paper with an 
image on it) of the boat and wrote my wife's name on the bow, 
using  shadowed letters. I showed her the mocked up photo and asked, 
"What do you think of this name for the boat?"  Melody Dawn, her 
first and middle names. She cried. We had a name and kept that boat 
for 18 years.


It's the racing types that will ask the questions about Jane.

Cheers, Russ



At 06:53 PM 16/09/2015, you wrote:

OK coming up with a new name for our new boat is proving very difficult.

I thought I would throw it out to you guys for some ideas!

Maybe you came across something sometime and thought wow what a 
great name for a boat!


I can't believe this is so difficult... Lol

Danny
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Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

A solution for geeks? A quick glance shows it's 
OpenCPN running on a fruit pie...


My solution is similar to Joe's, an old Thinkpad 
T-42 running Open CPN and with Nobeltec & CM93 
charts. Internet option (wifi) disabled. The big 
difference is that I have a modern OS, XP, and 
something called a Pentium core processor :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:24 AM 10/09/2015, you wrote:

Just saw this open source plotter:

http://www.sailoog.com/en/openplotter

Have not tried it.

On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 7:29 AM, Juno via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


good thought...  wish I had thought of that about 8 hours ago...lol

DJH
On Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>, 
Sep 10, 2015 7:18 AM wrote:


You should be able to install the apps on to 
whatever devices your google account is linked 
to.  Just go to the app store and select "my 
apps".  In retrospect i wish i had purchased my 
boating apps on an account which was common 
between my wife and i.  As it stands now she 
would have to buy the apps or i would have to 
sync my personal account to her device.  This 
might be a good time for you to consider 
creating a special Gmail account just for the 
boat.  That way all of the google services can 
be segregated to the boat and shared or unshared 
to other devices simply by adding that 
account.  (Apps, Drive, email, blogs, youtube, etc.)


Josh
On Sep 10, 2015 6:44 AM, "Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
OK, so I downloaded MX mariner for $15, the maps 
are free after that, and navionics for $10, maps 
seemed to come with the install,  last night 
onto the Samsung galaxy 3.  So far, they both 
look great.  I believe I can get these onto the 
G Tab for no extra cost now.  So, I think I'm going to try that next.


DannyOn Sep 9, 2015 2:17 PM, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Kevin,
>
> Great suggestion on Boat Beacon.  Just downloaded it.  Thanks!
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> 
> Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2015 16:31:20 +
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: kevindrisc...@gmail.com
>
> + 1 for MX Mariner. I have been using it on 
my 7" android tablet and Android Phone for 3 
years in tights spots and up and down the 
Oregon + Wa Coasts and in the San Juans. I also 
have Navionics on both devices for redundancy 
and with have charts downloaded on both. These 
apps send me notification and/or automatically 
update charts whenever new NOAA information is 
available (a huge plus for safety imo.) Active 
Captain is also integral with both apps. MX 
Mariner is free, I believe Navionics was $20 
for charts of all of Northern CA, Oregon, 
Washington and San Juans. HD Navionics was 
$50-60 as mentioned, but normal fidelity was fine on my 7" Tablet.

>
> Additionally I have an app called Boat Beacon 
which sends(with your MMSI #) and receives AIS 
info. It does this only when connected to cell 
service (when I need real AIS, I'll buy it.) I 
do also have an old handheld GPS (with outdated 
charts... like nearly all non wifi enabled GPS/Chartplotters)Â

>
> If I were you Danny, I would load up your 
android tablet, and one or two phones with 
apps/charts as a back up for the delivery. IMO 
the dongles, bluetooth adapters etc, add 
complexity and expense and seem like an obvious 
weak link in the system to me, as well as the 
battery drain, and not having the 
plotter/laptop in the cockpit. The apps will 
always be cheaper than additional hardware. But 
you can worry about that or not, when you get 
your boat home! BTW, you'll find that most 
delivery skippers only use a Tablet with 
Navionics because they can't trust the systems 
on the boats they are delivering. And a plug 
for one of the only boats/blogs that are really 
out there doing real sailing and not island 
hopping:Â s/v Sila, who has been using iPad 
Tablets successfully for years now, including 
around Cape Horn and a number of oceanic crossings. My 2 cents.Â

>
> Congratulations on your (almost) new boat Danny!
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 8:16 AM Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>>
>> I have been using an old IBM Thinkpad and 
OpenCPN for years and it all works great. You 
get spoiled and “real” marine chartplotters 
seem quite lacking. OpenCPN is free and all the charts are free too.

>>
>> The only drawbacks are that a laptop is NOT 
anywhere close to waterproof, it isn’t in the 
cockpit, and they draw more power than a 
plotter. My old beast draws around 4-5 amps.

>>
>> Â
>>
>> 

Re: Stus-List Mast chocks - how important?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I would like to reinforce Neil's message. Those mast wedges are very 
important. You cannot achieve a proper dynamic tune (i.e.: in 15 knot 
TWS) or ultimate mast stability without them. Fortunately not many of 
us routinely load the mast to where the lack will mean failure.


Here's a neat thing to feel the effect mast wedges have on mast 
stability. Take a length of uncooked spaghetti, support the ends of 
it between a finger of each hand and bring fingers together slightly 
to check the stiffness (bend the spaghetti). Then have someone 
support the spaghetti a couple o' inches from one finger and feel how 
it stiffens up.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:13 PM 07/09/2015, you wrote:

Dave,

The chocks at the partners are fairly important.  Most of the force 
from the shrouds and stays are is pushing down on the mast, a 
"column" load.  The wedges or chocks at the partners keep the the 
mast in line vertically, which greatly reduces it's tendency to go 
out of column under the vertical load.  Most likely nothing severe 
would happen if you sailed without them, but they're not just a 
tuning item, they serve a fundamental purpose.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/6/2015 4:05 PM, davepulaski via CnC-List wrote:
So I just discovered 4 shaped wood blocks waaay up under the nav 
table that I can only assume are the chocks for where the mast 
passes through the deck.   Which obviously means the yard didn't 
put them in when they stepped the mast because they didn't know they existed.


So my question is, is it a Big Deal to go sailing without 
them?   As in, will it do any damage to anything?   I'd rather not 
undo my nicely sealed mast boot and have to loosen the rig and 
start all over if I don't have to.


I don't care if the rig isn't in perfect tune without them, just 
curious if I can get away with being lazy and not hurting anything 
in this instance.


My mainsail should be back from the loft in a couple days and I 
really want to get out.


What say ye?

-Dave




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Re: Stus-List SOS light flare replacement

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Marek,

I too like the idea of having the approved light 
and day marker as qualifiers to the regulation 
and keeping a stock of flares aboard. My recent 
kit of flares were manufactured in July, four 
years ago. That means an extra $120 spent to go 
sailing that I could have used to buy beer. :)


I would like to know how the pointy heads came up 
with a best before date of 4 years for these 
things. It's not milk for crying out loud!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:05 AM 27/08/2015, you wrote:
I have to make a disclaimer first: I don’t 
sail any longer in the area or conditions that 
would give me a personal experience or exposure to such conditions, but...


If you read e.g. the “Surviving the Storm” 
by Steve and Linda Dashew you can find there 
some interesting observations on how to be seen. 
They claim, based on comments form Coast Guard 
fliers that most of the lights onboard can be 
visible (in heavy conditions – overcast, rain 
etc.) from only about 100 –150 m above the 
surface. If you fly higher (and you normally 
do), you want something that is visible higher. 
This probably means some parachute flares and 
orange smoke flares (for daylight).


One may buy the strobe light as a way to pass 
the Coast Guard inspection, but one may want to 
keep some flares in case of a real emergency. 
Maybe this is a suspenders and a belt approach, 
but you want to really easily visible if you are in distress.


just a thought...

Marek

From: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comIndigo via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2015 6:04 AM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mailto:ind...@thethomsons.usIndigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List SOS light flare replacement

I just checked this out with a friend who is 
intimately familiar with uscg regs. (He runs 
Safe Boating course in CT). This is what he told 
me. I have not seen it myself but I would not 
be surprised if it was acceptable

because it is really just an approved SOS night signal.  The orange flag
acts as the day signal.
See below link indicating that the SOS light is an approved night signal.
The new twist is the LED light.
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg5214/vds.asphttp://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg5214/vds.asp

Personally I would not want to rely on an orange 
flag during the day to attract help so would be 
buying orange smoke flares - so might as well 
buy the flares approved for day and night !!


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Aug 26, 2015, at 08:07, PME via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



Hi,

Is anyone familiar with the Sirius Signal SOS 
Distress light?   The claim is that it complies 
with USCG requirements replacing flares, and 
that it does not expire.  I just read about it 
from an Active Captain post which includes a 
Defender link for those interested:


http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsphttp://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp

I would be interested of anyones experience with these.  Thanks.



-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dwight,

Please reread Sam's message before getting out 
the pitchforks. He said 7 or 8, in the puffs. I 
would not characterize puffs as regular...


On a prairie lake I think his experience is quite 
achievable in hot summer conditions when all you 
want to do is sail fast, course be damned.



Cheers, Russ
Sweet mk-1



At 10:05 AM 25/08/2015, you wrote:

what do you mean by 7kn to 8kn regularly?

If you mean 7 knots or 8 knots through the water 
or over the ground with a CC 26 I would say you 
should be a race winner every time on corrected 
time; that is really fast for a CC 26 even on a 
beam reach and I got a feeling you would 
probably leave my 35 MKII struggling to stay 
close behind...before everyone runs out to get a 
CC 26 are you sure about those numbers; I have 
only ever seen a couple of CC 26's around 
here...I don't remember them being quite that 
slippery, in fact my CC 27 MKIII always seemed 
to be much faster on all points of sail


Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.netd.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:34 PM, Sam Salter via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so 
thought I’d share my thoughts on optimizing my sail plan.


Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!

Â

Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I 
love that! So I thought we’d play around with the saill plan.


Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think 
if I ssee the occasional whitecap it’s around 10kn)


Â

I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution 
Sails in Toronto (2 seasons). A Dacron main with 
2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche  McBride in Vancouver (5 seasons).


Â

I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer 
genoa cars; Harken traveller; Cunningham; 
Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay adjuster)


Â

The CC 26 is a tender boat and we were doing 
about 5.5kn to 6kn beating to windward at 20deg 
– 25deg heel. Flattening with the outhaul 
reduced heel a bit. (speed measured with a Speed Puck)


Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the 
leech forward of the spreaders so no interference.


Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was 
between 5.8kn – 6.4kn. Went up to 7kn or 8kn in 
the puffs (theoretical hulll speed is 6.25kn) No 
bubble in the luff of the main.


Obviously, the furled genoa wasn’t setting 
great and the starboard tack was better than 
port tack. On a beam reach I think she’d do 7kn or 8kn regularly.


Â

So here’s my thoughts:

I’m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 
110% or if that’s not practical (...and I 
suspect it isn’t) order a new 110%.


Eventually a new laminate main will be needed too!

I’m well pleased with 6+kns at 10kn of wind 
and 16deg angle of heel. Very little weather helm


I’ve not tried it yet with the genoa at 110% 
in light wind. In heavy air the main can still 
be reefed (...as could the 110%).


Â

OK guys, am I missing something?

(I’m not looking for advice on where to buy used sails!)

Â

sam :-)

CC 26Â  Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta

Â

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Re: Stus-List vang, CC 35 Mk II

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Jon,

Are you sure your's is a mk III. It seems like a really really early 
build... :)



At 10:04 AM 23/08/2015, you wrote:

I have a CC 35 ml III built in 1883. Are you sure yours is a MK II 
?  May make a difference on the advice you get back from the group.


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 23, 2015, at 09:52, Richard H. Bernstein via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 I am attaching a (Block and line) vang to our 1984 CC35, but the 
housing for the swing keel turning block is in the way at the mast 
base. I'm wondering how others have dealt with this problem.





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Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Exactly right Dennis.

And if motoring, burning three or four lamps is 
usually not a problem. Hence the desire to go LED 
for a masthead tri-light and the practicality of 
keeping lower lights as incandescent.


You might be astonished at the number of our 
American cousins who race around here at night 
burning every navigation lamp they can, masthead 
tri-colour, forward steaming, red, green and 
after steaming light. Very common on the overnight races.


Cheers, Russ


At 09:01 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
If you are motoring, you should not use the 
tricolor at the masthead.  The steaming light 
must be above the red/green nav 
lights.  Therefore you must use the deck or 
hull mounted nav lights when motoring.


Dennis C.

On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 9:31 PM, Russ  Melody 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Kurt,

Not everyone is using a tri-colour at the 
masthead but it is practical in that, when 
sailing, there is nothing to obscure the lower 
lights and one lamp can draw a lot less power than three or four lamps.


Note, if you are motoring then you still need 
the forward steaming light, etc.


Rule 25 (around page 80) if you're interested.

http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdfhttp://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdf


         Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35-1


At 04:50 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
Is there a reason every one is using tri colors 
at the mast head? Is this in addition to the 
regular side lights and stern light



From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com;

To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.comjfriv...@us.ibm.com; 
mailto:a...@airsensing.coma...@airsensing.com;

Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2015 5:10:19 PM

Hello Alex,

I am replacing the cabin lights with this one 
from Marinebeam: 
http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/ 
It’s just bright enough.  I tried the 18 
and 2d 21 led models too.  They’re a bit 
much.. The 18 is googood as a reading light, 
the 21 is the master blaster at the chart table.


My sternlight burned-out about a month ago. 
  I did not bother looking for a replacement bulb at Marinebeam..


I bought this for 16 bucks instead 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1redirect=trueref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1redirect=trueref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 



My original fixture’s lens s was all crazed 
and the housing was getting brittle…Â  Now 
itÃ’s all l fresh and nnew.  It’s well 
done too watertight ht with O-rings and 
extremely bright as it is a 12 led array.


For the tricolor I splurged a little..

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226 



It‬™s a bit pricey but it’s the cat’s 
a$$.  Sup.  Super bright, high quality 
machined metal housing, no interference with 
the VHF, automatic anchor light, and a killer 
white light illuminating the Windex.  You get what you pay for I guess..Â


I also have a remote control battery powered 
LED bar light for the engine 
compartment.  It's about 20 bucks at Walmart. 
It's a peel and stick installation and the 
light switch is also peel and stick.  No 
wiring. Simple and perfect for the engine 
compartment, the remote switch is nice.  I am planning on buying more of those


http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interestaction_type=titleitem_id=21827156placement_id=irs-106-t1strategy=PWVUBvisitor_idcategory=client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0customer_id_encconfig_id=106parent_item_id=16561412parent_anchor_item_id=16561412guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4bucket_id=irsbucket003beacon_version=1.0.1findingMethod=p13nhttp://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interestaction_type=titleitem_id=21827156placement_id=irs-106-t1strategy=PWVUBvisitor_idcategory=client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0customer_id_encconfig_id=106parent_item_id=16561412parent_anchor_item_id=16561412guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4bucket_id=irsbucket003beacon_version=1.0.1findingMethod=p13n 



-Francois Rivard

1990 34+ Take Five
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Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Kurt,

Not everyone is using a tri-colour at the 
masthead but it is practical in that, when 
sailing, there is nothing to obscure the lower 
lights and one lamp can draw a lot less power than three or four lamps.


Note, if you are motoring then you still need the forward steaming light, etc.

Rule 25 (around page 80) if you're interested.

http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdf


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1


At 04:50 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
Is there a reason every one is using tri colors 
at the mast head? Is this in addition to the 
regular side lights and stern light



From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com; a...@airsensing.com;
Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2015 5:10:19 PM

Hello Alex,

I am replacing the cabin lights with this one 
from Marinebeam: 
http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/ 
It’s just bright enough.  I tried the 18 and 
21 led models too.  They’re a bit much.. The 
18 is good as a reading light, the 21 is the 
master blaster at the chart table.


My sternlight burned-out about a month ago.   I 
did not bother looking for a replacement bulb at Marinebeam..


I bought this for 16 bucks instead 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1redirect=trueref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1redirect=trueref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00


My original fixture’s lens was all crazed and 
the housing was getting brittle…  Now it’s all 
fresh and nnew.  It’s well done too watertight 
with O-rings and extremely bright as it is a 12 led array.


For the tricolor I splurged a little..

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226

It’s a bit pricey but it’s the cat’s 
a$$.  Super bright, high quality machined metal 
housing, no interference with the VHF, automatic 
anchor light, and a killer white light 
illuminating the Windex.  You get what you pay for I guess..


I also have a remote control battery powered LED 
bar light for the engine compartment.  It's 
about 20 bucks at Walmart. It's a peel and stick 
installation and the light switch is also peel 
and stick.  No wiring. Simple and perfect for 
the engine compartment, the remote switch is 
nice.  I am planning on buying more of those


http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interestaction_type=titleitem_id=21827156placement_id=irs-106-t1strategy=PWVUBvisitor_idcategory=client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0customer_id_encconfig_id=106parent_item_id=16561412parent_anchor_item_id=16561412guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4bucket_id=irsbucket003beacon_version=1.0.1findingMethod=p13nhttp://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interestaction_type=titleitem_id=21827156placement_id=irs-106-t1strategy=PWVUBvisitor_idcategory=client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0customer_id_encconfig_id=106parent_item_id=16561412parent_anchor_item_id=16561412guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4bucket_id=irsbucket003beacon_version=1.0.1findingMethod=p13n

-Francois Rivard

1990 34+ Take Five

Cumming, GA


From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 12:12 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Alex Giannelia mailto:a...@airsensing.com

Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?



So,



I recently installed a PERKO masthead tri-light 
and want to know if one can insert a replacement 
LED trilight.  I understand that with the narrow 
spectrum range of some LED?s, I might not be 
able to insert a replacement white light LED but 
would need some kind of tri-light bulb.




What have others done for their masthead tri-lights?



Thanks,




Alex Giannelia

a...@airsensing.com mailto:a...@airsensing.com

(416) 203-9858
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Re: Stus-List New Sails for Alera

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Okay, but in the end who was correct? you the teen or Butch the waterlogged :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

At 07:32 AM 21/08/2015, you wrote:

Funny little story about Butch Ulmer...the U in UK.

Many many moons ago, when I was 12, I stepped aboard a 1972 C  C 35 
(the owner went on to buy a 38 on which I crewed and then a 40, by 
which time I had moved on to girls, cars and beer) as a Foredeck Ape.


We had a full set of Ulmer Sails (the predecessor company to UK 
Sails) so naturally Butch was aboard a number of times to look over the sails.


Well one day he was opining on such and such and, I, in my most 
know-it-all-teenager-way said he was wrong.   And I kept insisting on it.


Finally Butch looks at me and says Boy, I have squeezed more 
seawater outta my socks than you have been over...


I shut up.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Re: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ron,

I hope you don't have the Lite made fibreglass 
LPG cylinder. You can't get them refilled anymore.


http://phmsa.dot.gov/portal/site/PHMSA/menuitem.6f23687cf7b00b0f22e4c6962d9c8789/?vgnextoid=7c7384ae997be310VgnVCM10d2c97898RCRDvgnextchannel=d248724dd7d6c010VgnVCM1080e8a8c0RCRDvgnextfmt=print

http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/trawler-news/government-trawler-news/lite-composite-gas-tanks-recalled-company-insolvent/

Edd,
This link nicely explains date code and tank 
weight info. A quick check with a fish scale 
and you can start the cruise assured of having enough energy to make coffee :)

http://toponautic.blogspot.ca/2014/02/did-you-know-propane-tanks-do-expire.html

And note that Canadians get a raw deal. Our tanks 
need to be re-certified after 10 years.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:19 AM 20/08/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary==_NextPart_000_0144_01D0DB42.6D4446E0
Content-Language: en-us

Edd,

Mine is propane and can be refilled for most 
anywhere.  If your tank is more than about 12 
years old, it may not be able to be refilled 
without being tested.  That’s not worth the 
money.  Also, the tank, if it is really old, 
may not have an overfill preventer in which case it cannot be refilled.


My tank had to be replaced when I bought the 
boat in 2010.  I got a fiberglass tank which is 
great.  No corrosion and you can see the level 
in the tank if you look carefully.Â


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
CC 37+
Bristol, RI
mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.comron.ri...@1968.usna.com

Â

From: Edd Schillay [mailto:e...@schillay.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 8:09 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Stus-List LPG tank -- 37+

Listers,

I think this was covered in the past, but I'm 
getting older and I forgot the answer.


In my 37+, I have a tank labelled LPG for my 
stove. I need to get it refilled.


Is this propane? The same propane used for bbq 
grills? Or is LPG something a little different?



All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
CC 37+ | City Island, NY
http://www.StarshipSailing.comwww.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
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Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,

I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a scotchbrite pad to clean up rust 
stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version 
of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad  
acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less time 
than a soak.


Any significant heat treatment (welding) on S/S  will affect it's 
protective oxide layer. To restore the affected area we use a 
pickling paste which is just a fancy name for a really strong acid 
thickened enough to hang almost vertical for a while doing it's job. 
Copious amounts of water is recommenced to be on hand to get rid of it.


The best welding process for anything that cannot be removed from the 
boat is shielded gas, TIG or MIG, not a fluxed electrode. A tad more 
expensive but a much better job and no splatter clean-up.


If you have to go other and with any grinding keep the decks wet, 
water flowing, around the work area. This will prevent hot stuff 
sticking to soft stuff.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:48 PM 17/08/2015, you wrote:


Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the 
boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling 
and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.


The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack 
and seemed solid).  Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a 
million little rust stains in the gel coat.  We tried to scrub them 
out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat.  CLR 
didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak?


Any suggestions on cleaning?  I'm wondering about doing a bit of a 
white wash with stain to see if that will clean them.


Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously 
he welded with steel and that is rusting.  I had another weld that 
gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid 
repeating the same issue.  Not sure how close to fiberglass they can 
safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun 
process, but likely smart to get it done properly.


Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? 
Recommendations in Halifax area?
I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe 
integrated right into the rear pulpit


Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco


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Re: Stus-List Looking at a CC 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

I can agree with you guys on the beauty of your 
boats. The only one in the whole C  C fleet who 
fairs better is her older sister(s).


I think Dennis  Joe will agree. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 06:43 AM 16/08/2015, you wrote:

I will also agree.

Kurt Heckert
CC 35 mkII Heart Soul
Atlanta GA


From: Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Cc: Bill Hoyne ho...@telus.net;
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at a CC 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)
Sent: Sun, Aug 16, 2015 12:31:35 PM

I’ll second that :-)

Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 CC35 MkII
in Victoria,BC

On Aug 16, 2015, at 3:42 AM, dwight veinot via 
CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


In that case everyone would own a CC 35 MKII

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 12:41 PM, David 
Donnelly via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Andrew I looked up the article you referenced since I find that special
something about the 40 that draws my attention every time. I will someday
own one just not ready yet.

My favorite line of the article, and so true as I do it almost time I leave
my mooring to come home:

 Finally, I have to say again that no matter what, no matter how
impractical, my boat has to be beautiful. As my old dad always used to say,
There's no point owning a boat if you don't pause at the oars and gaze at
her every time you leave her. 

My own take on this theme is that if YOU don't believe you have the
prettiest boat in the anchorage, you will always lust after the one you
don't own.

Regards,
David Donnelly
CC 26 Mistress

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at a CC 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

Sitting on mine on my way to Maine. Just had a delightful sail under
spinnaker all the way up Buzzards Bay. I was asked to write an article for
sail magazine on my ideal cruising boat; I ended up describing the CC 40
almost to a tee. (Before I bought this one.) The short answer is, I love the
boat and so does my wife!

Andy
CC 40
Peregrine
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

I had similar experiences quite a few years ago 
on a cruise, little fishes plugging the sea water 
valve or elbow into the strainer (at the marina).


My system is not the best, a thru-hill, S/S ball 
valve and hose lead to an inlet elbow at the 
strainer near waterline elevation. The strainer 
outlet is a straight fitting.. go figure.
It needs to be changed to a proper thru-hull (no 
choke point) with fair lead and straight fitting into the strainer.


As a temporary measure I glued one of these, 
using 5200, onto the hull outside of the intake during the haul-out.

http://www.go2marine.com/product/202961F/buck-algonquin-bronze-scoop-strainers.html

That was 5 or 6 years ago :)

It is not really glued to the hull, just stuck to 
the paint. So I expect it to fall off some day 
but like I said, it's temporary (until I do a real fix after it falls off :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:57 PM 16/08/2015, you wrote:
Hey All, Twice now I have developed clogs in the 
raw water intake.  In both cases I was able to 
remove the water line and flush out whatever was 
in there.  There is a 90 degree elbow threaded 
into the seacock and Im thinking thats where 
its  clogging but I’m not sure.  I am in the 
process of adding a raw water strainer (not sure 
why it didn’t have one) and was thinking that 
removing the elbow and adding a straight nipple 
would help prevent the clogs.  While I’m at 
it, does anyone have any recommendation on what 
strainer to buy?  I am looking at the Groco ones 
but they have several different ones that all 
fit 3/4” NPT. Thanks all Joe 
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Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Don't listen to him, Jim.  I can tell he's just 
making things up. The name was Peat and we don't 
have pints of rum... maybe a litre or two.


And to settle the ghost, try hoisting a fender 
alongside the mast about half way up. You will be 
amazed how it can settle the rig if you have 
oscillation. I had to do just that at the Boho Bash, 4 weeks ago.


Go ogle vortex breaker.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:56 PM 31/07/2015, you wrote:

Dennis, where the hell did you come up with that?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 31 July 2015 at 21:04, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
It's the ghost of Penelakut Pete.  He drowned 
in Clam Bay when he fell overboard after 
consuming a few pints of rum.  Legend says he only comes out on breezy nights.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 9:26 PM, Jim Watts via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam 
Bay and had a strange problem. At a certain wind 
speed, the shrouds would start to hum, sometimes 
making the boat shake with vibration. The major 
vibration was felt in the small rod running to 
the underside of the upper spreaders and in the 
mast and backstay.  I backed each shroud one 
off half a turn and it really didn't do much 
except make those shrouds look loose to me, but 
I'm sure I can't tell the difference of 1/128th 
of an inch. It eventually faded as the wind dropped.
For the next ten days, in all sorts of 
conditions, we didn't hear it, but when we 
anchored in the same bay 10 days later, we got it again.

Any explanation except witchcraft?
Â
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

This happens to me a few times each year. I will 
try to start with the switch up to 3 times before 
I go looking. Most times it starts on the second 
or third attempt. FTC (failure to crank) is most 
often resolved by wiggling the connections on the 
fuse at the back of the head. A couple of times 
the connections at the back of the panel enjoyed caressing.


Someday I will deal with the issue but today is 
not the day. Tomorrow doesn't look so good 
either. :) The weather is truly grand on the West Coast these past months.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Ex A4, current is Yanmar 2QM20, next is 
a Universal 25 (on a dolly in the shed)



At 07:51 AM 28/07/2015, you wrote:
I've noticed a few times this season that when i 
push the start button for my Yanmar 2GM20F 
nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts right up.


What is the most efficient way of debugging this 
problem? Should I start up at the push button switch or at the solenoid?


Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama, 33 mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List changing paint

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

I think soda blasting is dry ice blasting.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 02:19 PM 27/07/2015, you wrote:

A cleaner method is dry ice blasting

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-07-27 9:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Sandblasting or soda blasting



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 5:45 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow
Subject: Stus-List changing paint



Using micron csc at the moment and really not that happy with it. 
To put on a harder paint (non ablative) do I need to take 
everything off and start again? What is the easiest way to get rid 
of the paint?




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Re: Stus-List Exploding CC

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Okay then, we have a boat on the way to a broker and suffers a fire 
in the middle of the lake with a lone wolf aboard. I can believe it's 
not the fault of having an A4 aboard, it could have been a can of 
dinghy outboard fuel below


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 -1

At 07:52 PM 21/07/2015, you wrote:


Oh, don't start that again,  Kevin!

I understood he was taking the boat down to Buffalo to a broker. not 
sure how he ended up over the border in the deepest pool  of the lake.
There was nothing below on that boat but a bucket and a handful of 
pipe berths. on second thought, it might have had a head with an 
actual door, but that's it.
Don't think it's been sailed in 15 years. seems a shame to pollute 
the lake with yet another wreck. I guess Dave Few can add another 
boat to his map, ghosts shipwrecks of Lake Erie


Bill Coleman
CC 39. Erie PA


 Original message 
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: 07/21/2015 7:13 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exploding CC

Sounded like an A4, no?

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 3:45 PM S Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I was wondering if we would hear from you on that one Bill.
It would be interesting to hear what the owner had to say about what
happened.
Precious little in the news reports.
He couldn't put the fire out, escaped in the Zodiac, and the coast guard
took him back home. That was about it.

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


- Original Message -
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com

To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@verizon.netcolt...@verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 17:47
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exploding CC


 And then you have this. Not a CC, a Nelson Marek I believe -



 
http://www.simcoereformer.ca/2015/07/17/sailboat-catches-fire-sinks-on-lake-http://www.simcoereformer.ca/2015/07/17/sailboat-catches-fire-sinks-on-lake-

 erie



 Draw your own conclusions.





 Bill Coleman

 CC 39  Erie, PA

 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim
 Watts
 via CnC-List
 Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:29 PM
 To: 1 CnC List
 Cc: Jim Watts
 Subject: Stus-List Exploding CC



 It sounds like the injuries weren't too bad, we can hope...ouch. Looks
 like
 a 30?
 
http://www.ottawasun.com/2015/07/11/man-burned-in-boat-explosion-at-gatineauhttp://www.ottawasun.com/2015/07/11/man-burned-in-boat-explosion-at-gatineau

 -marina



 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III

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Re: Stus-List Deck repair

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Martin,

I was going to use high build primer on my deck 
paint job and the paint rep said not to use it. 
Waste of money and not as good as regular primer 
unless there is  a lot of fairing to do. It seems 
best suited for a job where minor imperfections 
are needed to be filled. High build on and long 
board the high spots off, repeat until perfection.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:43 AM 09/07/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/related;
boundary=_004_23EAE197CC1B594FA8793397EBCD357DC85DFCDMI3DMIlocal_;
type=multipart/alternative

Charlie,

I will be painting Kiwi Grip over many sq. feet 
of epoxy/filler repairs completed or underway on 
Calypso’s deck.  Over well cured epoxy I am 
painting an epoxy based one part high build 
primer.  Over the primer most of the repairs 
will also be covered with a two part topsides 
paint.  The Kiwi Grip will go over the top coat.


Over on Sailing Anarchy, in the fixit forum, 
there is a contributor that sells Kiwi Grip.  I 
expect he would be able to confirm its 
compatibility with various primers and top coat 
paints.  My expectation is it will cover/bond 
well over most primers and paints but would 
prefer not to be painted directly to un-coated epoxy.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck repair

As long as the Kiwi-Grip will stick to the 
repair (if done with epoxy w fillers), I do not care.


Probably need to check with Kiwi-Grip to see if its compatible.

Thanks,

Charlie

mailto:cenel...@aol.comcenel...@aol.com


-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2015 2:17 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck repair
If your going to kiwi grip it anyway, why worry about gelcoat?
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 9, 2015 2:09 PM, Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I managed to crush a 2 x 4 portion of my aft deck on both sides recently.

I have cleaned out the balsa core and removed 
the fiberglass/gel coat pieces on top and need 
to fill it in (its about 1 inch deep) and then, 
eventually, cover it with the Kiwi Grip that

was on it pre-crushing.

I have done a lot of fiberglass construction 
with epoxy and thought I would mix up a batch 
with some cotton fiber filler and just fill the hole.


Alternatively I could wet a bunch of fiberglass 
tape I have with epoxy and then top this off with some thickened epoxy.


Then I read about gel coat repair and it says 
that this won't adhere to an epoxy repair so I 
maybe I should fill the holes with thickened

gel coat so that eventually some Kiwi Grip will stick to it.

I need to fill it this weekend before the balsa 
core gets wet from rain, etc. although I have 
put a thin coating of epoxy on the balsa to protect it temporarily.


What advice does the list have for such a repair?

TIA,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
CC 36 XL/kcb


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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

hey Kevin,

I'm skeptical that Roundup addition to bottom 
paint will work. I've been lead to believe that 
Roundup needs to be applied to green leafy plants 
that are in the growing stage.


If you think it works, what kind of proportions are we looking at?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 07:36 AM 01/07/2015, you wrote:

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint 
and the waters in which we sail should be taken 
out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew 
of anti biotics into these same waters is 
similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the EPA 
all you like, but someone needs to take on the 
unenviable task of protecting the rest of us and 
our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.


Kevin
30-2

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AMÂ Jean-Francois J 
Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I totally concur..

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You 
apply it as prescribed.  If the tetracycline 
was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from the factory. Â


BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine 
(I check it regularly when we swim) after being 
constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real 
long yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My 
competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom every 
week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to 
consistently show-up on the podium despite our 
inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old bedsheet sails. :-)


-Francois
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA Â



Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.netcscheaf...@comcast.net
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:
               
mailto:1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill 
lots of germs and bacteria but will dissolve so 
fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I 
wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear 
of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release of 
it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in 
Round Up and I've heard the same people 
complain that their paint flaked off during 
haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit 
paper before painting as directed, and can tell 
by their confused expression, they never read the directions.


I respect the guys who write the application 
instructions, follow those as close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.


I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used 
VC-Offshore for 8 years and got fed up with the 
fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to 
stay ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and 
sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, 
Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all 
winter and the fouling looked pretty bad this 
May. All the boats in y marina had a fur 
attached to their hulls. I was surprised how 
easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, 
and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed 
for Salt Water and Fresh Water requires Micron 
Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the 
paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design 
gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

Regards
François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

img 
src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzwhttps://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLG 
HV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw;


Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 

Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

Wasn't this a suspected head gasket leak a while 
ago? Then confirmed suspicion finding discoloured 
oil (grey) and cranking with no firing?  So now 
it's probably just hydraulic'ed and they want to remove the whole puppy!


Did anyone try barring it over with the injectors removed?

Don't you have a competent mechanic nearby who 
can pop the head off in less than a couple of 
hours and give you a good opinion?


Might save the season and a few grand to boot, Russ


At 12:41 PM 24/06/2015, you wrote:

Listers,

The yard is pulling out the Enterprise’s 
engine tomorrow. They can’t get it to turn 
more than 3/4 of the way and they think it’s a bent rod or something.


So, as far as I can see, the options are:

1. They ship this engine to a place that can 
fix/rebuild. I know this is the lowest-priced 
option, but also am aware that there’s a 
possibility it can’t be fixed or rebuilt. So, 
in essence, I’m gambling with all that time and labor.
2. Obtain a remanufactured Universal M-35 or a 
similar engine from Westerbeke and get that put 
in — anyone have any clue as to those costs?
3. Obtain a Beta-30 from Beta Marine for $11,000 
including shipping and put that in. The Beta guy 
(who has been enormously helpful) says it should 
be a perfect match (same mounts, same power, lighter engine)


Anyone have any advice, experience or comments 
with any of these options. If it were you, what would you do?


Wanted to get this email out before I threw up.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


[]












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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing 
qualities and the lube aids to obtaining a good mechanical seal.


I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape 
on the exhaust fittings. This is probably the 
worst application for the product (second being 
any system with a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations.


At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and 
emits a toxic fume. Fatal to birds in the home 
when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not 
good for humans in a small space either.


I whole heartedly support the use of high temp 
anti-seize. It might stink a wee bit on the first 
couple of runs but it probably won't harm you.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:

Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape 
sealers are not really there to seal the 
threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They 
are simply there to lubricate the threads so a 
sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By 
design the mechanical compression as a result of 
the tapered threads is what is actually supposed 
to prevents leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner 
of sealants which may help but a proper NPT connection shouldn't need it.Â


That being said, I used Teflon tape on my 
exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  I may have 
difficulty getting the joint apart, who 
knows.  I also used a bench vice to provide enough counter-torque.


As a suggestion I would give high temp 
anti-seaze a try.  It is usually copper colored 
and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If 
you've ever replaced an O2 sensor they include a small tube.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 21, 2015 9:56 PM, Sam Salter via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

2GM20F - I’m about to replace the mixing elbow - got the part.
There’s a pipe joint between the mixing elbow 
and the exhaust elbow that screws into both parts.

Do I screw this piece in dry or (more likely) use some sort of sealant?
If I need sealant - what do you guys suggest?
I’ve got a tube of high temp silicone left 
over from installing my garage heater, is this stuff OK? If not - what???


sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta



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Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

And that brings to mind, if you're being paid by 
the hour to crew or work on a boat.. the best 
stories start with , Once upon an overtime..


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:25 PM 18/06/2015, you wrote:

We've had good luck with a cedar plug, too.
I think it's appropriate, given the direction of 
this thread, to mention that the difference 
between a sea story and a fairy tale is that one 
starts Once upon a time... And the other starts, Now, this is no shit...!


Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Jun 18, 2015, at 21:33, Jim Watts via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


We used a cedar plug trailing on a heavy mono 
line joined to surgical tubing coming back from 
Hawaii last year, got a nice mahi and a nice 
albacore within minutes. A spray bottle of 
vodka dispatched them amazingly quickly. One 
shot into each gill and that was that.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ecj52bdEiCo/VGP0OQZFptI/Cts/31i7niiJYkM/w1238-h820-no/DSC_9432.jpghttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ecj52bdEiCo/VGP0OQZFptI/Cts/31i7niiJYkM/w1238-h820-no/DSC_9432.jpg 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 18 June 2015 at 17:51, Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
The mahi seem to favor neon-green squid 
lures.  I think we had a 40-lb nylon hand line 
out with a stainless leader and the squid.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 18, 2015, at 7:16 PM, Martin DeYoung 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 Knife?  Cut off the head, drink the vodka.

On a delivery from Tonga to New Zealand we 
caught a 70lb yellow fin tuna.  The vodka 
trick came in handy.  That fish was 
particularly pissed off to find itself winched 
up a backstay and being readied to be butchered into football sized roasts.


On the Tonga/NZ trip there were three avid 
fishermen on board with offshore rods and 
reels.  My job was to sail the boat to keep 
the lines from the two rods from getting under 
the boat (a 46’ Barnett custom).  The 
fishing line was +-200lb test, the leader SS 
braid, the hook a big a** #3 treble, the lures 
were squid like.  After several hours of 
landing mahi, wahoo, and some sort of jack 
(some ½ eaten by the sharks) both rods sung 
out at the same time.  The guys responsible 
for the rods were stuffing tennis shoes into 
the reel area to help the brakes. After 20 
minutes of fighting, we landed the small tuna 
(the 70lb’r), the big one broke the line and got away.


I will put together a short list of what 
worked for fishing from a racing sailboat in 
the NE Pacific.  I claim no expertise but I 
have picked up a few easy no-rod tricks that 
seemed to work between Hawaii and the US West Coast.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle



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Re: Stus-List What Model Have I?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Wow. Look at the mainsheet traveller in the 
brochure. I remember those. Ha, kids these days...


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1 (means first run off the lot)

At 03:58 PM 17/06/2015, you wrote:

The 24 had 3 models – standard, Niagara and Competition.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/24foot/24b1pg01.htmhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/24foot/24b1pg01.htm

Stu
Former 24 CC Competition Owner

From: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comPaul Baker via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2015 6:25 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mailto:pjbake...@hotmail.comPaul Baker
Subject: Re: Stus-List What Model Have I?

You have a CC24. They had no models, marks or 
names. All that changed over the boats life was the interior layout.

The Niagara is a different boat.
Cheers,
Paul.

27 MkII
Former 24 owner.
Sidney, BC

 Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 15:31:33 -0400
 To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List What Model Have I?
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC: flasp...@dynamagic.com


 On the bigger boats, I see many of you post the length, and a model
 name. Some vessels have the same manufacture year and LOA, but come from
 different model designs.

 Of my 1975 24, I have found only one model, the /Niagara/, but a look at
 the layout shows that mine is not a /Niagara/.

 I have the original owners manual, and nowhere do I find a model
 variant. Nothing on the title, and nothing in a casual web search.

 The subject came up when I applied for insurance with Allstate and they
 asked for a make and model.

 They were happy with CC 24 but it got me wondering what model
 variants of the 24' were offered, besides the above-mentioned /Niagara/?


 --


 Andrew Frame
 CC 24, #43
 Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL

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Re: Stus-List thru-hulls R2AK

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Bear in mind that if you combine two scuppers 
into one then one of then will probably not drain 
when heeled. Of course this only matters if 
you're sailing and get water at your feet. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

Anyone watching the R2AK? Too bad no CC got into 
it... on the other hand, Francis (crew on MOB* Mentality) sails a CC 115.

* = Mail Order Bride

At 10:45 AM 14/06/2015, you wrote:

[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits]

Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would 
want seacocks on them. I was thinking your 
transom extended further back + up, but those 
are below the bootstripe and close to the rudder.Â


You could also combine the two scuppers into one 
outlet and then plug or remove a thruhull so you 
have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers 
and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck 
scuppers are setup, and they don't need rapid 
self bailing like the cockpit does.Â
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Re: Stus-List NYC help

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Not much help, but here's where I stay at NYC :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 04:09 PM 11/06/2015, you wrote:

 Nanaimo Yacht club
General Meeting - June 11, 2015
Pizza, salad, cookies, coffee
$5.00
Served 18:00 to 19:00 hrs

Carol
Office Administrator

[]






At 06:08 AM 11/06/2015, you wrote:
left Newport yesterday am.  Headed thru Hells 
Gate this afternoon. Â any marina recommendations on the other side?


Joel


--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Universal M-35 Water Heater Hose Size?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Why are you heating hot water?


At 08:40 AM 08/06/2015, you wrote:

Listers,

Does anyone know, off hand, the size of the hoses that run from a 
Universal M-35 to the hot water heater?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brad,

Good to hear you have a zinc ahead of the strut but is it far enough 
ahead that you can push the shaft back to remove the shaft coupling half?


Rotational play between shaft  coupling is not as bad as excess 
clearance between the hub  shaft. I would attempt a temporary repair 
and deal with it at the next haulout. Best case scenario is all you 
need is a new key, they do get worn quite a bit with lost motion (it 
takes quite a hit every gear shift).


Get them apart and measure along the keyway on both pieces to 
determine wear pattern.
If you find either keyway shows wear you have two options, 1) make a 
stepped key that matches each slot (keyway) size; 2) fit a tiny shim 
with the key in the worn slot.
A stepped key is not difficult to make by hand, I've done a 
few for industrial pump situations, but it can be tedious.
A shim for this is going to be like working on a miniature 
train set. But you might get lucky and find something that just fits.
For either temp repair I suggest Loctite between coupling half  
shaft (and set screws as Danny mentioned) for re-assembly. Get the 
hub, with key laid in, started onto the shaft by 25%, then smear 
Loctite on loading area and get the coupling half into proper 
position and tighten immedately.


Whoa, I didn't even finish that last sentence and heard the shouting. 
Chill man, it's not 5200. This is from Loctite info:

Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is permanently locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't 
be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is 
needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature 
Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this 
process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still 
hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) 
to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with 
clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.


For the permanent repair the only new thing you'll need is a key. A 
machine shop will true the offending keyway and possibly match it to 
the other keyway if it's off a bit too or just true the one and make 
a custom (stepped) key to use. If it's the stepped key options then 
make sure you get a couple of spares and the dimensions.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 11:16 AM 05/06/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary==_NextPart_000_005F_01D09F81.10182600
Content-Language: en-us

I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it 
back in and the boat back together discovered that the propeller 
shaft coupling is a little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8 of 
rotational movement on the shaft, like possibly the keyway is 
worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, which secures the 
coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is movement 
of the coupling on the shaft.  It's been recommended that I have the 
boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and 
provided the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the 
shaft, and then reinstalled for a final alignment.


My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with 
a loose coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?


Thanks,

Brad Crawford
CnC 36
Seattle

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

It's a little too early in the race to start drinking, isn't it? :)

At 12:13 PM 05/06/2015, you wrote:


The boats are still pretty packed together, 
except the Tripp 41 that went up the shore line 
early this morning.   Kinda hope it works out 
for him, but it appears he may have stayed inside a little too long.Â


Anyone have access to the wine/waves that they’re seeing now?






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Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Good correction Robert.

I should have said, ... will drip once per 
minute... (phew, metric still gets me sometimes :)


And yeah, this guy does a great job of presenting boat chores information.

Cheers, Russ

At 06:00 AM 03/06/2015, Robert wrote:

Great site on how to repack a traditional stuffing box.

Bev, as for the size of the packing material, it 
depends on the diameter of the prop shaft.as 
the article stated, I used three strands of 
3/16 flax on a 1 diameter shaft.  However, 
mine does not drip at the rate anywhere near 
where Russ has stated 'one drip per second at 
running speed'...mine drips about two drops per minute.


When I was repacking, I placed the three strands 
of flax into the packing nut but then could not 
get it to thread.if this happens to you, 
tipput two strands in first and compress 
them..open everything up and then put the 
third one in and then the packing nut should thread.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-06-03 2:36 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Rick  Bev,

Good advice, except the repack. Packing loads 
into the gland as segments, not as a spiral 
wound. The direction of shaft rotation has nothin' to do with it.


I found this very nice explanation to pass 
along. this guy does a bang-up job of 
presenting this task. Pages 2  3 is most interesting.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box%26page=1http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_boxpage=1
I suggest performing this task during a haulout 
and using the shaft near the propeller as your 
packing segment cutting guide. It's a very comfortable way to do it.


I didn't see it there but a properly adjusted 
stuffing box with flax  lanolin packing (the 
common old timer's marine stuff), will drip 
once per second at running speed and dry up when it cools.


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 08:52 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:
HI Bev,  I now have a dripless shaft, but 
in the past I have tweaked 
these.  It’s not complex.  If 
you don’t need new packing you just 
tighten the gland to a point where it is 
weeping at the rate you like.  Channel 
locks or pipe wrench will do the 
trick.  This is not high stress wrenching 
but you need to tension the packing with the 
first large nut, and then lock your tension 
with the second net to snug.  Too tight on 
the packing and it will heat up and eat the 
packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise 
is gentle and to be happy with the rate of 
drip.  If you tighten it down and the pace 
continues, you may need new packing. If you 
pull your old packing out a bit and snip some 
off to see what was used you should be able to 
staunch the flow again.  If you pull it all 
out the box will leak at a high rate.  Lots 
of folks have the new packing!  Plan 
accordingly.  As I recall the new packing 
wraps in the opposite direction as the forward 
prop spin  (take a mental picture as you 
pull the old packing out), enough to fill the 
gland then tighten gently to the point the 
drip slows, stops or is very small.  Keep 
an eye on it and tighten accordingly.  It 
will break in eventually and will remain 
static possibly for years.   I wish I 
were in Vancouver as I would drop in and fix 
it, for a couple of pints.  Of course in 
Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch 
mechanic than buy me a couple of beers.  lol
It sounds like you are worried about it, and 
rightly so as the relentless dripping adds up 
in the bilge.  It is not a huge problem 
though and someone on the net will chime in 
and come give you a hand.  Great folks in 
BC on CC and other fine vessels.ÂÂ

Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
CC 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box 
shaft? What size is the packing? Does anyone 
know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten the same?

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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

And I see you missed commenting on the ceiling 
leak that happened at the deckhead. The next 
thing you know people will be talking about their 
jib tracks mounted on the topside or converting the sloop to a cutter.


As they say up north and down south, Have at 'er mate.

Seriously though Dennis, how could you? Everyone 
knows that floors run athwartship.


Cheers, Russ

At 05:19 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:

Oh, no.  Are the nomenclature police offended?  Stringer vs floor?

Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a 
couple of years ago?  I recall reading it in 
the salonuh main cabinuhsaloon.


Dennis C.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
There appears to be three or more bundles of 
fibers (glass?) which follow the contour of the 
hull from side to side - each one of the cross 
members rests on one of these bundles and the 
keel bolts (as I remember) go through the 
bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.

Â
Gary
Wet Maryland
- Original Message -
From: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comRonald B. Frerker via CnC-List
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.comRonald B. Frerker
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

Interesting that CC put a third cross member 
in.  My boat is a 1973, #166, and it only has the two.
When I repaired the step last year, I put a 
third member in between the other two.
Also, my two original, and the third I put in, 
all rest on the curved shoulder of the 
bilge.  They don't appear to be structural 
other than dedicated to hold up the mast.
Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it 
was not regular, was the toughest part.

Ron
Wild Cheri
STL



From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com

To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.netgnylan...@atlanticbb.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I 
would surmise they are built the same. Mine is #593.

Â
There are three crosswise stringers under the 
oak plate. The aluminum box is attached to the 
oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached 
with six long screws. The oak comes off easily.

Â
Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, 
the stringers may or may not be weakened. If so, 
the fixes have ranged from removal and 
replacement to just strengthening. I went the 
strengthening route and framed each stringer 
with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of 
holes in each and filled with G-Flex up to the 
level of the oak. No movement in about five years.

Â
The problem is that the factory didn't 
encapsulate the stringers (which are made up of 
two pieces of 3/4 plywood each) on the bottom, 
and when the bilge is wet, they soak up moisture 
and get waterlogged. There's glass just on the sides.

Â
Some fixers have just put a large horizontal 
tube for drainage and another for access to the 
forward keel bolt and then filled the whole 
cavity with some sort of filler (microballoons, 
etc.). You could just fill the lowest part so 
that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to 
get all the water out, the pump has to be in the 
lowest part of the sump - under the mast. Inaccessible.

Â
Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge 
drain. My boat had that, and foolishly I filled 
up that area. I should have replaced it with one 
which is flush to the outside, then for half of 
the year, the bilge is totally dry.

Â
I don't have pictures, but when you take the 
screws out of the oak, it will be pretty obvious what is there.

Â
Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
Â


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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side 
burner will do okay in a weedy bottom if the top opens. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it 
was. I had a backyard-built plow anchor on Shift 
when we bought her, the proportions were all 
wrong and it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ  Melody via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Dwight,

In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not 
using a Bruce Lee... that is what a Chinese 
knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, 
get it? Bruce Lee, the Chinese  character?


Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the 
original anchor, which was forged steel.

check post #28
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchorshttp://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors
Bear in mind that the above is small anchor and 
cast steel is repairable, you just need to recover the pieces. :)


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:24 AM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
and pay attention to how you set the anchor...I 
mean back off hard on it to make sure it is set 
well and if you can use at least 7 to 1 rode to 
depth...I use a 15KG Bruce style knock off with 
about 40 feet of 5/16 high tensile chain as my 
main hook and I carry my 35 lb CQR and a large 
Danforth complete with rodes under the vee 
berth as spare...I have had very good 
experiences on the Bruce style anchor...a lot 
depends on the type of bottom and the set as far as holding power goes


Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.netd.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 3:09 AM, Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Joe, for what you describe you are planning on 
doing, that anchor should do just fine. If you 
think you may be possibly caught needing more 
secure footing, there are several recently 
introduced anchors that may serve you better; 
Rocna etc, but at considerably more cost. As 
others are pointing out, more weight means more 
security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will perform.
You might also consider installing a windlass 
as, unless you are a built like a windlass, 
manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog.
 I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150â€â„„¢ of 
5/16†chain backed by 200’ ™ of â… â€ 
nylon rode with a Lofrans windlass on mn my 
LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a problem.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ  Melody via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I 
want to put a plow anchor on a roller and 
found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a 
chart on the photo album that says that would 
be more than enough but that chart seems to be 
the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our 
only real use would be for an afternoon of 
swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay.Â

Thanks
Joe


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Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

The 35 lb'der will be okay as a lunch hook, occasional, or whatever 
you want to call. It can even be considered big for that service.


Serious cruising where you have many more nights/year on the hook and 
very little discretion on when to stay overnight at anchor means a 
minimum 45# is in order. More chain helps too and getting the hook 
down before Happy Hour is better.


On the 35 footer, I've been summer cruising with a temporary 22# 
Delta plow and 10 fathoms of chain for 5 years now. I've got an 
appropriate 33# Bruce Lee once I get my bow roller  winch installed. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:53 PM 31/05/2015, you wrote:

Hello,

What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor 
on a roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on 
the photo album that says that would be more than enough but that 
chart seems to be the exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only 
real use would be for an afternoon of swimming and occasional 
overnight in a very protected bay.


Thanks

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original 
source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is 
useless as a sealing medium

 in compression fitting applications.
In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make 
the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.


In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and 
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those 
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or 
possible more) of the T fittings where the hot and cold water runs 
split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have 
small leaks.  Here's a picture - 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. 
But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the 
head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high 
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar 
issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According 
to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar 
set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential 
applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate 
after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The 
company is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done 
originally without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a 
wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them 
or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back 
up until they stop leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small 
problem into a big one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough 
cleaning and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest 
I try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 CC 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I with you on encouraging anybody to do a good varnish job. Then 
everyone can enjoy the best finish possible.


However, the last couple of times the missus  I have done Cetol, due 
to laziness which we convince ourselves as being too busy, and the 
results are entirely acceptable. Someday we will return to varnish. 
But this is not the day. Tomorrow doesn't look good either... maybe 
next year. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

P.S. my varnish routine from freshly wooded is:
- turps wipe
- 2 coats of 50/50 varnish in one day
- light sand  turps wipe followed by varnish with a wee bit of 
Penetrol (for smooth brushing)

- repeat each day until at least 5 coats
- maintenance EVERY spring  fall is a minimum two coats (the second 
coat in the fall can be done same day if weather is brilliant)

- take varnish gear cruising with good intention but do nothing with it :)

At 03:30 PM 23/05/2015, you wrote:


Come on varnish guys, speak up. Varnish varnish varnish.  Nuff said
Bill 8 coats Walker
Evening Star, cnc 36
Pentwater, Mi.




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

--
On Saturday, May 23, 2015 Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/Starbrite-Tropical-Teak-Classic-Dark/dp/B00DNBGCC8http://www.amazon.com/Starbrite-Tropical-Teak-Classic-Dark/dp/B00DNBGCC8 
That's the teak oil I use on my cockpit seat, because varnish is too 
slippery. It holds up well. I painted everything else. The funny 
thing about paint is people ask me if it's Cetol. Wal
On 5/23/2015 4:39 PM, davidrisch75 via CnC-List wrote:  Done with 
sanding and varnish. What say you? -- s/v Stella Blue 
http://www.wbryant.comwww.wbryant.com 
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Re: Stus-List Starting problems

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Derek,

My 2QM20 might be a similar vintage to your 
engine. Mine has a fuse near the back of the 
head, port side, that has a connection which 
often comes loose. The symptoms shown have been 
no idiot light at panel or lights okay but no 
starter power. So far I've cured by wiggle action 
but one of these days I know that isn't going to 
work anymore. It really needs new connections, no 
spring left to grip the spade.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 05:32 AM 22/05/2015, you wrote:

I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 
engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main 
switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm 
sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops.


This season, after a few successful starts, when 
I turned the main switch on one day there was no 
alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the 
starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries 
spent the winter in my basement and were fully 
charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and 
the charger showed full charge on both batteries.


This happened once or twice last season but when 
I repeated the process the engine started.


I assumed that the main switch was worn out and 
ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from 
Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with 
them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day.


I had carefully labelled and photographed the 
connections at the old switch before removing 
it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t 
solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I 
got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction.


I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought 
I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance


Derek Kennedy
Tortuga
CC 30 mk1
Ballantyne’s Cove, NS
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Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rich,

Best wishes on the second or third happiest day 
of your life. (Wedding days are currently under discussion at the institute.)


Can we assume the sale is final?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote:
Pretty much every marine engine has a connector 
or two in the engine/panel wiring harness. They 
are there to make installation convenient at the 
factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot 
of problems as corrosion and wear set in. I’ve 
seen electrical problems on every size of boat 
regardless of make or engine type that bypassing 
these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest 
cutting out the connectors and splicing the 
individual wires together using top quality heat 
shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that 
the engine has to be serviced, removed, or 
replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as needed.


I’m not sure that this is the root of your 
problems but it’s a good place to start.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless.

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Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag - cows in spring

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Stelios,

How about our quest for etiquette, milking a dead cow?

The other thought was, it's gone udder up but I'm pretty sure I 
just made up that one.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:34 PM 18/05/2015, Stelios wrote:

Here are the proper ones

http://www.commodoreinsignia.com/flags_signals.asphttp://www.commodoreinsignia.com/flags_signals.asp

Toes up or down? Interesting.
Reminds me of a  phrase used when a cow dies. Hmmm I just can't recall it!
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Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Prop wash is the disturbed, somewhat aerated, 
water left behind the boat when motoring. It can 
be a good place to troll for bluebacks in the spring. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:09 PM 18/05/2015, you wrote:


Rick, Is their such a thing as prop-wash?  If so what is it?

Josh
On May 18, 2015 7:22 PM, Rick Brass via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Josh, the proper term for what you are 
describing is “torque steer”, not prop wash.




Torque steer to port in forward is present on 
all single screw boats with a RH prop, just as 
prop walk to port in reverse. A boat with a LH 
prop will torque steer to starboard, and prop walk to starboard.




Torque steer and prop walk are primarily cause 
by the differential in water pressure between 
the upper and lower blades as the prop rotates. 
This generates a side thrust perpendicular to 
the prop shaft. The amount of side thrust is 
impacted by the diameter of the prop and the 
pitch of the blades, and by the speed of 
rotation of the prop. The more of each, the greater the thrust.




I recently changed from a 17x10 Martec to a 16 
1/2x11 Gori that has noticeably thicker blades 
with more pitch. I was surprised at the increase in torque steer and prop walk.




Torque steer is generally more pronounced than 
prop walk because of the general greater engine 
speed in forward gear – though when backing at 
low speeds the prop walk can generate a lot more 
side thrust than the rudder can.




My friend has a new-to-her 29-2 with a 2gm13F 
and the standard 14x9RH prop, and that boat prop 
walks like a bitch until you get some aft way on the boat.




On power boats with outboards and out drives (no 
rudder) the effect of torque steer is generally 
compensated by the presence of a small skeg or 
adjustable tab on the on the drive housing that 
is adjusted to offset the effect of torque steer 
and let the boat run in a straight line. Larger 
boats with a shaft drive (like ours) have rudders that can compensate.




Twin screw boats typically have counter rotating 
(1 RH and 1 LH) props so there is no torque 
steer or prop walk with both engines running at 
similar RPMs. Unfortunately this isn’t always 
true – the 81 foot tour boat I work on has 2 
300HP Volvo Penta outdrives and both are RH. The 
torque steer is colossal, and makes handling the boat a constant struggle.




Rick Brass

Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 9:45 AM
To: CC List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2



Sounds reasonable.  To add on, would you agree 
that the spinning column of water which gets 
split by the rudder when going forward is then 
responsible for the phenomenon called 
prop-wash?  I feel some pretty substantial wash 
and a pretty strong pull to port when full 
throttle but a reasonable and balanced helm when sailing.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 16, 2015 2:08 AM, Knowles Rich via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Well, this might be just the right time to float 
a theory I’ve had for some time about “prop walk”.  Here it is:




When the propellor is spinning, it produces a 
rotating horizontal column or spinning cylinder 
of water molecules which move away from the 
propellor along its axis. When the boat is going 
forward, this rotating column is left in the 
wake and, other than being split equally by the 
rudder as the boat moves forward, the spinning 
column has little to no effect on the 
directional performance of the boat as it is 
left behind in the wake and gradually dissipates.




When the propellor is put in reverse, forcing 
water to the front of the boat as it pulls the 
hull backwards, the column of spinning water 
leaving the prop is no longer free to dissipate 
in the wake, but encounters the hull of the boat 
immediately in front of the propellor. If you 
consider the column of water as a spinning 
cylinder made up of molecules of water, the 
outer wall of the cylinder striking the hull 
will cause it to roll up the side of the boat 
away from the keel and toward the surface, and 
the spinning molecules in the interior of the 
cylinder will be directed away from the centre 
line of the hull and off to the side.




To see this in action, put your stationary boat 
in reverse and note on which side of the boat 
the water is agitated. If you have a right 
handed prop that turns left when in reverse, the 
column of water will be directed to the 
starboard side of the boat and will therefore 
push the stern of the boat to port. If you have 
a left handed propellor that turns to the right 
in reverse, the column of water will be directed 
to the port or left side of the boat pushing the 
stern to starboard. Thus the much cursed and 
very useful affect 

Re: Stus-List Problem with reverse

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

Did you verify if the shaft is spinning in reverse at low speed?

I'm thinking it might take high RPM to get your prop working after 
the winter chill  sit...


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 09:41 AM 19/05/2015, you wrote:

Hello all, Diamond Girl launched on the weekend.
All is good except for going backwards . . .

It only kicked in when I revved the engine fairly high.
Happened two more times. So here is some back ground and my questions:

Yanmar 3GM engine, exc condition, well maintained, 450 hrs.
Variprop 2 blade 7 years old, last relubed 2014 with spec grease, manuf
calls for every 5 years.
I did not relube this year, did not think it needed it.

I also redid stuffing box packing this year, drip rate looks good but could
it be binding and not allowing tranny to go into reverse gear? I am not
familiar with the gearbox on this engine.

Any thoughts on possible causes and fixes now that the boat is in the water?

Thanks

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
CC 34
Lions Head ON




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Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jonathan,

In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by 
an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With 
that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown 
in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee.


At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore 
unless he completes the full term.


So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO.

Cheers, Russ  P.C.
Sweet, 35 mk-1
Nanaimo Yacht Club


At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote:
Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a 
past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is 
moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of 
the boat was NOT Commodore.  Etiquette rules that I can find are 
explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and 
references to past Commodore's flags


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hoo boy,

The below should read ... an executive member does not qualify as 
Past Commodore unless he (she) completes the full term (of Commodore).


This writing stuff is like math is hard too.

Cheers, Russ

(Alberta people will know what the remark means. :)

At 10:24 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote:

Hi Jonathan,

At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore 
unless he completes the full term.
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Re: Stus-List Rusted cotter ring remnants in anchor roller retaining pin

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

I expect it is spring steel if you're dealing 
with a (split) ring. So it's difficult to drill.


The simplest method is to dress it flush with the 
pin surface as best you can, file or grinder, and 
drill a new hole ~90 degrees from the old. A 
little away from the old path if you have enough 
material towards the end so you don't bump into 
the old ring on your way through. It helps to 
flatten the surface  centre punch where you want to drill.


If you try acid then get the strongest that you 
are comfortable working with and wear eye 
protection, gloves, blah blah. Don't worry about 
the S/S pin, our 93% strength sulfuric acid pumps 
 piping is stainless steel. Then when ready try 
to drive it out with a pin punch instead of drilling.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:04 AM 16/05/2015, you wrote:

Pete,
For what it’s worth, Citric Acid will eat the 
rust(iron) and not effect the stainless.  I am 
not sure how you would use that info.  Maybe 
soak the area intermittently with a 10% citric 
solution.  I don’t think it will harm your fiberglass.

The powdered drink “Tang” is high in Citric acid.
Cheers
Rick
CC 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
On May 15, 2015, at 4:36 PM, 
mailto:kellype...@msn.comkellype...@msn.com 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Listers, please give me advice.
Due to inferior steel, a cotter ring has rusted 
badly, and I am unable to remove the remnants from the pin.
So far, a hardened-steel drill bit (Irwin 
brand) is simply enlarging the hole around the 
edges, but not removing the ring remnants.

Is there chemical solution?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


Pete W.
Siren. Song
'91 C  C 30 MkII
Deltaville, Va.




Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Tablet


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Re: Stus-List Prop walk 29-2

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

You nailed it Steve.

Here's a graphic  description of the back  fill.
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/backfill.htm
(no affiliation to site, blah blah)

I will caution that the ubiquitous furled jib can 
play havoc with this action if it's windy.


It was 1983 that I learned this maneuver actually had a name. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:42 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:
I didn't see the original post but it sounds 
like the prop walk is a challenge .. it was for 
me too, and it continues to be sometimes (docked 
to port on the windward side of a dock needing 
to back out). Anyway, it's really useful 
sometimes .. I use the backing turn all the 
time! Lock the wheel hard starboard and shift 
into reverse, throttle up, throttle down, (aka 
blip the throttle) neutral, keep the wheel 
locked, shift into forward, throttle up, 
throttle down, neutral, rinse and repeat and you 
can do 360s in a boat length all day long 
without moving the wheel a point. Just apply 
enough throttle to get very slight way on and 
then shift the other way, keeping the wheel 
locked hard starboard. Works a treat. I've 
actually used this when backing out to starboard 
was needed but wind would be a challenge .. I'de 
back out to port and then do a backing turn to 
get me pointed back the right way. Sometimes you 
don't have a spring line .. (I'm on a med 
mooring and holding onto the mooring lines is 
both messy and sketchy when there's risk of 
fouling the prop, I'm always short handed with 
the admiral doing bow lines leaving me alone aft).Â


Steve
Suhana, CC 32
Toronto

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 11:20 AM, jackbrennan 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Don't forget about using a floating spring line 
if you need to back out to starboard.


Tie off one end of the line to your starboard 
stern cleat, then run it around the rear piling and back to the cockpit.


As you are reversing, slight tension on the line 
keeps your stern from going to port. Once you've 
cleared enough of the slip, more tension will bring the stern to starboard.


Once you get the hang of it, the technique works in all conditions.

Use a floating line to avoid tangling it in the prop.Â

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Bob Hickson via CnC-List
Date:05/15/2015 10:49 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List Prop walk 29-2

Hi Martin,

Â

I bought a 29-2 in the US in the spring of 2012.

The original prop (think it was CC original) 
was a fixed 2 blade – Feederal Sailor 14RH9.


Prop walk was bad with this prop.

In the spring of 2013, I swapped the prop for a 
used CDI, 3 blade feathering prop with a 13 inch 
diameter. This prop has an adjustable pitch and 
I do not know what it is set at. The prop was 
purchased from another 29-2 owner and the pitch was set up for the boat.


Performance with this prop is a huge 
improvement. Much more aggressive thrust with 
the 3 blades in forward and reverse. The boat 
stops and accelerates very quickly. Also a 
slight improvement in boat speed up to 6 – 6.5 
knots withh no issues even in strong headwinds and heavy seas.


Even with this prop, walk is still a concern.

You can manage it as others have suggested.

When backing out of my slip (requires turn to 
starboard) I give a very strong burst of reverse 
(~5 seconds) to get the boat moving. Immediately 
throttle back, shift into neutral and steer. If 
you lose way, another burst of reverse may be needed.


When conditions are really bad with a strong 
cross wind from the port side, I will back out 
of my slip to port and back down the fairway 
between slips until I clear the docks and can turn.


When entering my slip, I angle in with the bow 
slightly to the port side. A quick shot of 
reverse with very little throttle will 
straighten the boat in the slip and stop it.


Â

Hope this helps.

Â

Fair Winds,

Â

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

tel:416-919-2297416-919-2297

mailto:bobhick...@rogers.combobhick...@rogers.com

Â

Â

Â

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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki KBW10 Transmission Leakage

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brad,

I did this on my 2QM20 with Kanzaki gearbox.

Output flange removal can be difficult because of the tight space and 
if I remember correctly there is a locking tab that gets pushed out 
of the way before trying to remove nut.
I had to do it at sea once (off Pachena Point, rolling sea, long 
story). To secure the output flange I passed a long bolt through the 
gearbox side coupling half and jammed a pry bar between bolt and hub 
so it will bear against the hull when breaking free the nut.

You need to move the prop shaft aft enough for the above to work, of course.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:56 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:


Maybe this has been asked or covered before?  Has anyone experienced 
transmission fluid leaking from the rear of their transmission?  I 
suspect it is a rear seal that has worn or gone bad.  Were you able 
to have the seal replaced with the transmission in the boat or did 
you have to remove the transmission?


Wondering what I am in for,

Brad
Dora Pearl
CC 36
Seattle
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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is.

As in, pull the red inny outy on the left side.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ,

So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a 
sheet an inny outy line doesn't work?  :)


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ  Melody 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Rob,Â

I can understand your confusion with a term you 
are comfortable using as it was provided by a 
rigger you trust. My intention is not to 
belittle you or anybody else but to point out to 
everybody when I see little things start to get 
outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again.

You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms.

But seriously... providing copy from a 
mega-store discount website is not the best 
tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how 
terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place.


If these guys used tie-bar instead of 
throughbolt  compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) :
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htmhttp://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm 



Or this British guy who is still using looped 
eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if 
an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He 
references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting.
http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDFhttp://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF 



Then I might call, Uncle!Â

My references are mostly on paper, like a 
library, and include favourites such as Bruce 
Bingham, Bob Perry  Brion Toss. I'm slowly 
catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island.


I have a story with a trusted rigger to share.
When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap 
shrouds  forestay done (with Harken furler 
rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his 
stock didn't have the correct size. No 
problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost.

No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here?

You see, a rigging wire too big is no better 
than a rigging wire too small and my trusted 
professional couldn't see that because he works 
for a living and in this case it probably would 
not have made any difference and most customers 
would appreciate getting a more expensive 
product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well.

Humans are kinda funny in a way.

That's probably enough for now, unless someone 
wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island


At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ:
I too like to use the appropriate nautical 
term.   When we put the standing rigging 
together for the first time after purchasing 
the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 
'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the 
rigger from North Sails called it was approx. 
half worn through by the wire from the main halyard.


This yacht shop in the below website advertises 
what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and 
threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously.


http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm

And yes, we have the compression tube inside 
the mast .we used the original one with a 
new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S



On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:


A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast 
to hold the tangs tight is a called 
through-bolt (even though in most cases it is 
a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a 
compression tube so it can be properly 
tightened without deflecting the mast sides 
towards each other. The compression tube was 
especially important in wooden masts to 
prevent movement and elongation of holes.


I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede 
most people use the term salon instead of 
saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can.


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap 
shroud in its tang and then screw the tang 
into the tie bar inside the mast.the 
shroud and the tang have to rotate as one.Â





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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Not I, but I have trimmed a spinny while holding a red line with white tracer.

My spinny inny outty is green with white tracer, both sides. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 09:27 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:

God forbid you use red fleck or red trace for the white lines.

Dennis C.

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Russ  Melody 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is.

As in, pull the red inny outy on the left side.

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ,

So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a 
sheet an inny outy line doesn't work?  :)


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ  Melody 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Rob,ÂÂ
I can understand your confusion with a term you 
are comfortable using as it was provided by a 
rigger you trust. My intention is not to 
belittle you or anybody else but to point out 
to everybody when I see little things start to 
get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again.
You might have noticed I deleted all reference 
to you in my reply to - terms.
But seriously... providing copy from a 
mega-store discount website is not the best 
tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how 
terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place.
If these guys used tie-bar instead of 
throughbolt  compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) :
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htmhttp://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm 

Or this British guy who is still using looped 
eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if 
an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He 
references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting.
http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDFhttp://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF 


Then I might call, Uncle!ÂÂ
My references are mostly on paper, like a 
library, and include favourites such as Bruce 
Bingham, Bob Perry  Brion Toss. I'm slowly 
catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island.

I have a story with a trusted rigger to share.
When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the 
cap shrouds  forestay done (with Harken furler 
rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, 
his stock didn't have the correct size. No 
problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost.

No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here?
You see, a rigging wire too big is no better 
than a rigging wire too small and my trusted 
professional couldn't see that because he works 
for a living and in this case it probably would 
not have made any difference and most customers 
would appreciate getting a more expensive 
product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well.

Humans are kinda funny in a way.
That's probably enough for now, unless someone 
wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island

At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ:
I too like to use the appropriate nautical 
term.   When we put the standing rigging 
together for the first time after purchasing 
the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 
'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the 
rigger from North Sails called it was approx. 
half worn through by the wire from the main halyard.


This yacht shop in the below website 
advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE 
BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both 
endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously.


http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm
And yes, we have the compression tube inside 
the mast .we used the original one with a 
new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S


On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:

A little term bitchin' here.
The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast 
to hold the tangs tight is a called 
through-bolt (even though in most cases it is 
a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a 
compression tube so it can be properly 
tightened without deflecting the mast sides 
towards each other. The compression tube was 
especially important in wooden masts to 
prevent movement and elongation of holes.
I may be pissin in the wind here and I 
concede most people use the term salon 
instead of saloon, but I endeavour to 
preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can.

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island

At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:
the most difficult one is getting the 
cap shroud

Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight 
is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not 
a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be 
properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each 
other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts 
to prevent movement and elongation of holes.


I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the 
term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of 
as many other old terms as I can.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and 
then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud 
and the tang have to rotate as one.
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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Rob,

I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using 
as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to 
belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see 
little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge 
them back to goodness again.

You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms.

But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is 
not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get 
misused and into the mainstream in the first place.


If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt  compression tubes 
(check the flange bushings for repair) :

http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm

Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing 
his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even 
practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of 
through-bolting.

http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF

Then I might call, Uncle!

My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include 
favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry  Brion Toss. I'm slowly 
catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island.


I have a story with a trusted rigger to share.
When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds  forestay 
done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, 
his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll 
upgrade you, up one size at no cost.

No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here?

You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too 
small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works 
for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any 
difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more 
expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well.

Humans are kinda funny in a way.

That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me 
started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Russ:
I too like to use the appropriate nautical term.   When we put the 
standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the 
boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie 
bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn 
through by the wire from the main halyard.


This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking 
about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is 
not of a 'tie bar' obviously.


http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm

And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used 
the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is 
called, to hold the tangs together.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S



On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:


A little term bitchin' here.

The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs 
tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a 
stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it 
can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards 
each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden 
masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes.


I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the 
term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of 
as many other old terms as I can.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:

Mike et al:

the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang 
and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the 
shroud and the tang have to rotate as one.




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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Oops. Correction by a boat buck. Sweet's gang replacement was $1200, not 200.

Of course, we don't get much of anything for a boat if $200 is all ya got.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:18 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote:


250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal??

Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, 
was less than $200... installed!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is 
stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if 
he's bringing dye but he's already given me a 
price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 
plus. I just want peace of mind.Â


Steve
Suhana, CC 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal??

Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, 
was less than $200... installed!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is 
stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if 
he's bringing dye but he's already given me a 
price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 
plus. I just want peace of mind.Â


Steve
Suhana, CC 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

At 09:37 AM 06/05/2015, you wrote:
On start up last summer departing Powell River 
our CC37+ Paikea started steaming as we motored 
toward Lund.  A lot of bad things can cause that 
change! I powered back to near idle and limped 
back into PR.   The belt looked fine, so then 
disassembled the impellor cover and replaced the 
impellor even though it looked sound.  I figured 
the next easy step would to be make sure I am 
getting supply so I started working toward the 
through hull.  Nothing but a trickle through any 
of the hoses.  It’s funny how you anticipate 
the worst case.   I removed the clamps on the 
through hull with the valve shut and pulled off 
the hose, and incredibly, could see a shiny head 
and two eyes.  A sardine had taken a head first 
plunge into our intake!  I opened the valve and 
a 3” fish shot into the bilge.  The trip had 
not gone well for him, but it sure had improved on my end!

Cheers Rick Paikea   Poulsbo, WA



What a coincidence.

We had the same problem on Sweet many years ago 
in that area. Lund was the first instance and 
overheating occurs before getting past the 
breakwater. It became routine for us on that 
cruise to crush some taco chips over the port 
side, engine intake to starboard, and watch the 
little fish gather. Then start and get the heck 
out of the marina before any tried to make it into the water strainer.


Good times.

Cheers, Russ
 Sweet, 35 mk-1



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Re: Stus-List CC 34 rig tune

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

try this worksheet for designations:
http://www.colligomarine.com/docs/guidelines/colligorigdescriptor1_2.pdf

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Nanaimo, but on the way to Thetis Island soon.

At 06:58 AM 08/05/2015, you wrote:

Hello list gurus,

Armed with my newly acquired Loos RT-10 and a decent bosun's chair, 
I plan to enlist a few strong friends to hoist me up the mast this 
weekend and tune the rig.

Anyone have decent numbers for the CC 34 shrouds?
And what are we calling the above the spreader pair (upper  
intermediate), lower section of the upper and then lower?


Thanks in advance for any advice,

Chuck B
CC 34 Elusive
Somerset, MA
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Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

This reply is really for Mr. Noragon.

You and everybody else agree on the concept that 
Sail CE vs. Yacht CLR is going to influence 
weather helm. Any objection to moving the 
discussion on ways to arrive and influence that 
relationship to a new thread? (it might become huge :)


In the interest of stepping a mast on a Landfill 
38* I recommend the following simple steps: mast 
placement, shroud static tune, shroud dynamic tune.


Mast placement:
Since we don't have history, I would start with 
the mast centred in step and adjust forestay 
length* to arrive at desired rake. If you come 
against the aft partners (deck elevation) then 
bang the mast base forward (similar if aft adjustment is necessary).


Static Shroud Tune:*
Centre mast athwartship using this technique, 
second paragraph At The 
Dock  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm
Next, I tighten the lower shrouds alternately and 
bang on 'em occasionally until the low thud 
becomes a low bing. I keep the tighten sequence 
until they all have the same nice bing. (low G 
for my wire, if I remember correctly)

Similiar for the upper shrouds. (but a higher note when finished)

Block the mast at the partners and have a beer. 
You have just tuned a rig, by ear.


Dynamic Shroud Tune.
The sailing adjustments finish rig tuning and are 
as important as above. I usually do a couple of 
dynamic tunes simply because of weather 
opportunities aren't always there the first sail 
out. For this I do a small leeward adjustment, 
tack, adjust leeward, tack, etc. instead of 
luffing as recommended by the above link.


* - if you are racing and need repeatable 
pre-race rig settings then a Loos gauge is a handy kit for Static Shroud Tune.

  - not once was forestay tension mentioned :)
  - the other thing I couldn't resist was the 
landfill comment. this is an unkind and 
unwarranted remark oft made in the racing 
community, jealous, I think, they don't appreciate comfort.

I would love to upgrade to a Landfall 38 and cruise the Caribbean for bit.

Oops, gotta go. Looks like a call from Rich, 
inviting me over for a beer (in case the sale falls through). Hah ha.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Nanaimo

At 05:59 PM 03/05/2015, you wrote:

Right, we have all agreed (conceeded in my case) 
that more rake usually equals more weather 
helm.  However, while discussing rake we are 
only taking into consideration the movement of 
the mast head.  The act of moving the head back 
actually does two things.  One, it tilts or 
rotates the sail on approximately on it's 
tack.  Two, it pulls the entire sail aft since the mast is moving aft.


Which action is changing the weather helm or are they both responsible?

The original question by Mr. Frank Noragon was, 
What would happen if he moved the blocks at the 
mast step so as the move the foot forward?


I answered that it would increase the rake and 
then incorrectly stated that increased rake 
would decrease weather helm.  Fellow listers 
quickly corrected my error...repeatedly.  After 
being corrected for the third or forth time I 
decided to reeducate myself.  During this review 
it occured to me that all I was previously 
considering was the rake.  Rich's comments made 
me consider the placement of the sail in 
relation to the boat.  As such I possed the 
question to Rich that moving the foot forward 
does increase rake but actually moves the bulk 
of the sail forward.  What is the net effect?


There it is, fire at will.

Josh

Rich,



Less rake = less weather helm.  If you go far 
enough, you end up with lee helm, which can be 
dangerous.  I doubt you have enough adjustment to get that far though.




Jake



Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 1:36 PM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step



Hi All. I’ve been having an offline conversation with Josh, see below.



Perhaps someone else might like to answer Josh’s questions as I can’t…



Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 2, 2015, at 17:41, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.commuckl...@gmail.com wrote:




Doesn't the luff moves forward when you move the 
foot forward?  The original poster was asking 
about placement of wood blocks.  He had all 4 
blocks forward of the mast and the mask back all 
the way aft.  I assumed that in moving the 
blocks to move the mast forward that this would 
move the foot forward as well.  No mention of 
changing headstay length so I assumed it to be 
the fixed point in all of this.  Based on these 
assumptions the trailing edge of the mast and 
the luff edge of the sail would also move 
forward but the mast as a whole would have more rake.  Right?


Josh

On May 2, 2015 6:53 PM, Rich Knowles 
mailto:r...@sailpower.car...@sailpower.ca 

Re: Stus-List RudderPostCollar

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Eric,

The rudder won't fall out of the quadrant is attached. That said, I 
would block between the quadrant and top of rudder log (boat part) or 
use one of these

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/34312?r=~|categoryl1:%22603582%20Power%20Transmission%209and%20Motors%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22608501%20Collars,%20Couplings%209and%20Components%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22603515%20Shaft%20Collars%22|~%20~|sattr01:^%222-Piece%20Clamping%20Collar%22$|~
  two piece collars clamped to the stock under the quadrant to keep 
things in place.
Then you can take apart the upper works and fix things, in the water, 
whenever you have a mind to.


The 35-1 uses one of these collars at the top of the shaft log 
instead of the fancy arrangement that you have.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:56 PM 03/05/2015, you wrote:
In checking out Cat's Paw today in preparation for launching, I 
noticed cracks in the collar around the rudder post where it comes 
through the cockpit floor (CC 35 Mk II, 1974).  The collar looks 
like an aluminum casting, probably the original one.  First, is this 
sufficiently serious I should not even launch until it is fixed? The 
rudder is held up by the fitting above that with the two large allen 
screws, so I doubt the rudder will fall out.  And the rudder still 
turns easily. Second, where should I look for a replacement collar? 
Presumably the rudder will need to be dropped, or at least held up 
so it won't fall out when the upper fitting is removed.  So will the 
boat need to be hauled to do that?  We are sailing in the Figawi 
race in less than 3 weeks, so I doubt it can be fixed before 
that.  Advice please.


Here is a picture of the cracked collar:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4gfowalb1qyd8j/RudderPostCollar.JPG?dl=0

Eric
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List rig tuning

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David,

If I may try to clarify things a bit here... 
substitute forestay length for forestay tension in Dwight's message below.


As others have pointed out (Dennis' message is a 
good guide)  forestay tension is more or less 
adjusted for sailing (or APPARENT wind) conditions.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

Today's activity is a pre-cruise boat scrub and 
make sure the refrig still works. Although the 
bilge is still a nice temperature to cool pale ale, so no distress there.

'Round Thetis Island race next weekend.

At 05:15 AM 29/04/2015, you wrote:

David


Initial set on the forestay tension should give 
some aft rake on the mast.  In calm waters and 
after you have the mast plumb, hang a weight 
(say 5-10 lbs) on the main halyard just above 
the boom...that weight should hang out anywhere 
from 6 inches to a foot aft of the mast...adjust 
forestay tension so you get something like that 
before applying additional back stay tension. 
then you can apply back stay tension to induce 
more aft rake and if you have a gage on your 
backstay adjuster you can use that to see how 
rake varies with tension or you can do as Dennis 
described for what he does on Touche with a 
calibrated batten...If your boat has a strong 
weather helm you may have too much aft 
rake...you can achieve a lighter weather helm by 
relaxing the forestay tension a bit


Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.netd.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Apr 28, 2015 at 11:20 PM, David Knecht 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Hi Dennis- I realize that you would generally 
tighten the forestay with the backstay as the 
wind increases.  However, that assumes some 
starting point of how much sag there is with no 
backstay tension and it is that starting point 
that I am unsure how to set. I am presuming that 
there can be such a thing as too much sag 
because the forestay turnbuckle is set too loose. Â  Dave


On Apr 28, 2015, at 10:10 PM, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@gmail.comcapt...@gmail.com wrote:



Simple question.  Complex answer.

Look at the shape of the headsail.  Notably, 
the amount of sag in the luff.Â


Forestay tension is primarily regulated by 
backstay tension.  There is no good guide for 
pounds of force.  Your headsail design and 
age, choice of sail (#1, #2, #3), rig tune, 
wind strength and sea state will influence forestay tension.


Forestay sag affects the depth of the 
headsail.  (Halyard or luff tension affects 
the position of maximum draft.)Â  Forestay sag 
also affects the angle of entry of the 
headsail.  In light air or leftover seas, 
increase sag (i.e. less tension.).  In flatter 
water and more breeze, decrease sag (more tension).Â


On Touche' we don't look at the gauge on the 
hydraulic backstay adjuster.  We have a dinghy 
batten taped to the adjuster.  The batten is 
marked with different color tapes.  We use it 
as a general guide to reproduce tension based 
on our experience with the boat and our 
observation of the forestay and headsail shape.  Our general guidelines are:


Green - light air or waves
Yellow - moderate breeze, some waves
Red - heavy breeze or flatter waters
Black - death, Holy Crap!  Beam us up, Scotty!  We're going to die!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 28, 2015 at 7:33 PM, David Knecht 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Speaking of forestay, what is the proper way to 
determine the correct forestay tension? Â  Â Dave


On Apr 28, 2015, at 7:14 PM, Tim Goodyear via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



Robert,

I think the only things missing from your 
setup numbers are rake and pre-bend.  Our 
forestay length is also very easy to adjust (not that I do often).


Thanks,

Tim


On Apr 28, 2015, at 4:01 PM, robert via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


What Dwight is referencing is a race we did 
with a Kirby 25 and were embarrassed on the 
race course.  And we were especially bad on 
starboard tackwe kept wondering all day 
what was wrongalmost blaming one another 
for our poor performance, e.g. you can't be 
pointing high enough, you can't have my sails 
trimmed.    After the race, first we 
discovered the shroud turnbuckles were not 
pinned.I thought they were because I 
thought I pinned them after I tensioned rig 
tension.  Dwight discovered by applying 
Pythagorean's theorem that the top of the 
mast was out of column by 18 to port.  Any 
wonder why the boat was not performing the way it/we previously did.


That never happened a second time!

The 32's rig is set at cap shrouds 1,300 
lbs.,  lowers 1,200,  intermediates 500 
lbs.,  backstay at rest 1,000 
lbs.,  babystay 600 lbs..haven't 
measured the headstay tension but it is about 
4 to 6Â  bowed with a 135% under power. Â 
  And since I stopped racing, I have 

Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

How is the pole UV protected... painted? And have you noticed any 
effect on the flow across the lower part of the mains'l?


Most of the carbon poles around here are deck stow and have a cloth 
covering when not in use.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:48 AM 25/04/2015, you wrote:
I have a carbon pole on the mast,  I wouldn't do it any other way. 
It is so slick to deploy, and completely out of the way.




Bill Coleman
CC 39
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Is that right?

A CF spar that weighs twice an aluminum... what is special, other than price?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:43 PM 25/04/2015, you wrote:

I have a Forespar carbon fiber extendable spinnaker/whisker pole on Honey
It weighs twice what the aluminum pole weighs and when said and done 
with end fittings etc it cost me right at USD4,000 through Port Supply

Jack Fitzgerald
Honey
CC 39TM
Savannah GA USA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 25, 2015, at 10:48, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I have a carbon pole on the mast,  I wouldn't do it any other way. 
It is so slick to deploy, and completely out of the way.




Bill Coleman
CC 39


 Original message 
From: mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.comsvpegasu...@gmail.com via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com

Date: 04/24/2015 5:03 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage

Pegasus had the pole deck stowed. I moved it to the rail, aft chock 
is inside of stantion, fwd chock os on outside of aft bow pulpit 
stantion. So far I have not had an issue wit lines getting tangled.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Date: Fri, Apr 24, 2015 12:35

To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Subject:Stus-List Spinnaker pole storage
My seldom used spin pole is in deck chocks along the starboard 
rail.  Just something else to trip over.


Has anyone used the rail-mounted chocks?  Any other solution (other 
than the mast)?


Joel

The Office
Annapolis
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Re: Stus-List Interesting 35-1 interior reconfiguration

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

You got that right Joe.

Hatches  head skylight are good clues. It's also not a Redwing, 
being a whole year newer than my boat... which is a few years younger 
than a Redwing.


I like your comment about losing the best sea berth. This yacht is 
okay for a single-handed laker or coastal crustier. (I meant cruiser 
but auto correct said crustier and I like that better.)


I say good for single hand because the pullman style galley is a 
pain in the arse if there are more than two people aboard. Either the 
cook is annoyed that someone is travelling through the work area or 
the skipper is annoyed that a cook is always in the way. If the cook 
 skipper is the same, no problem.


Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1 1972



At 06:50 PM 24/04/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary==_NextPart_000_00ED_01D07ED8.A33F1340
Content-Language: en-us

That is a 35.



Joe Della Barba
Coquina
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Rick Brass via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interesting 35-1 interior reconfiguration

I think this is a 30, not a 35.

Dennis, you have too much time on your hands if you are boat 
shopping in Canada. You need to get healthy soon!


Rick Brass
Washington, NC




From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 3:04 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Interesting 35-1 interior reconfiguration

The interior of this 35-1 has been significantly reconfigured.  I 
don't think this was an option.  The galley has been extended into 
the starboard side settee.  Some of the pictures are upside down but 
just shows what you can do.


http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-toronto/c-c-35-redwing-mk-1/1025857419http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-toronto/c-c-35-redwing-mk-1/1025857419
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Cat crew duties during a race

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Watch out if he starts mixing drinks for you.

http://www.greaterfool.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/TRUST-modified.jpg?8f4c78


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 10:08 PM 22/04/2015, svpegasu...@gmail.com wrote:

Yeah he is pretty worthless. But the girls love 
him. And he doesn't drink my post sailing cocktails.



Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.

-- Original message--

From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List

Date: Wed, Apr 22, 2015 21:52

To: Russ  Melodymailto:;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Crew duties during a race
Cat has trouble opening the bottle for post race dark and stormys

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 22, 2015, at 11:33 PM, Russ  Melody via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:




Perhaps the cat was not trying to tie you up 
securely. She might havebeen just playing with you. :)


Cheers,Russ
Sweet35 mk-1

At 09:14 PM 22/04/2015, you wrote:
Cats also tie terrible 
http://knots.Neknots.Never trust a cat to tie you up securely.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 April 2015 at 
19:10,mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.comsvpegasu...@gmail.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.comwrote: 

Being a live aboard, my crew (aka cat Dinghy) 
gets locked in the brig(v-berth), he can tell 
when I am thinking of leaving the dock. 
It'sterrible being out smarted by a 
cat.  Once under way, he likes tosit on 
cushion layed over clutches, makes it tough to 
adjust the main,all the while giving me the 
finger, (mentally), for making him gosailing. 
When arriving back at slip first one off is 
supposed to take aline. Yeah he doesn't do that either.Â


Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA.
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Re: Stus-List Why does my furler get hung up?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Robert,

The common causes of furler madness is halyard too tight, halyard too 
loose or halyard lead too shallow.
A poor halyard lead is the most cause of furler nonperformance. The 
most common solution is to install a fairlead as the halyard comes 
out of the box at the masthead.


I had a similar problem to yours and everything went fine since I 
added a shackle to the jib tack, which allows the swivel to go a bit 
higher and steepen the halyard lead.


You must do something as that is a very bad situation to sail with. 
Search out halyard wrap and other furler horror stories. It simply 
will not work as is and you could break it in a blow by forcing things to furl.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island

At 10:08 PM 16/04/2015, you wrote:
I just bent on my main and jib this evening. While furling my jib, 
the furler (Harken) seemed to get caught up somehow. It was as if 
the furler wanted to unwind a little, if that makes sense.


I know that my jib sheets were not fouled. It felt as if I was 
twisting the foil or the forestay.


I managed to furl by repeatedly backing off and gingerly furling again.

Anyway, I'm asking because this happened to me last summer under 
sail while I was trying to reef. The situation was as above, but 
with the added drama of a wildly flapping jib.


Is there an obvious reason for this?

Robert H.
1989 CC 30 MKII
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Re: Stus-List Tiller on CC 35 Mkiii?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

You might want to hunt down Alan in Portland. 
He's had Thirsty for a long time.
With any luck he will even answer your original 
question about a tiller equipped 35 mk-3.


Alan Bergen alan-at-h...@comcast.net
CC 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
west coast, Canada

At 03:02 PM 16/04/2015, you wrote:

Rob,

Thanks for that link - I'll definitely take a 
look.  We own a little trailer sailor at 
present (Potter 19), so this will be the first 
keelboat purchase for me.  I've done a fair 
amount of sailing (passages from Portland to the 
San Juans) with friends on their boats, some 
sailing classes and a couple of cruises in the San Juans/Gulf Islands. Â Â


We currently live in Oregon, but I'm in the 
process of retiring and we've purchased a house 
in Port Angeles, so if I do buy a boat, it will 
be based out of Port Angeles. Â  Â I've been 
looking for something from 30' to 35' feet, so 
this is at the long end.  I originally had been 
reluctant to consider these CC boats because of 
the cored hulls, but I guess I'm somewhat 
getting over that phobia, although I'll definitely be getting it surveyed. Â


Cheers,

Dave

On Thu, Apr 16, 2015 at 1:28 PM, robert 
mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.carobertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote:
Dave, welcome to the CC list.  You didn't say 
if this was your first boat (I am betting it is 
not)..if you are, then the attached article 
and especially the part where it says to become 
a boat detective could be useful buying any boat.

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/buying.htmhttp://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/buying.htm

However, if you are only looking for specifics 
on CC 35MKIII's, there are several owners on 
this list with considerable experience with the 35 MKIII.


Keep the list informed on how you far out.  And where do you sail from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2015-04-16 4:28 PM, David Castor via CnC-List wrote:
Hello - first post here.  I'm in the market 
for a boat and will be looking at two different 
35 Mkiii tomorrow.  One apparently has a 
tiller instead of a wheel.  Does anyone know 
if this was an option on a new boat?  I'm 
assuming it was probably a later conversion.Â


I've already been advised on checking for leaks 
at hull/deck joint and portlights, as well as 
mast step area and deck delamination/core rot.Â


If there are any other things to be looking for 
let me know.  I'll definitely be getting a 
survey if it gets that far, but trying to screen out any major issues.Â


Thanks,

Dave Castor



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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

That sounds like a good plan. I will suggest that you light a small 
indicator lamp on the interior panel connected to the on switch of 
each exterior panel switch (exterior, instrument  navigation) so 
when you snuggle down in an anchorage you can see if you 
unintentionally left an exterior light burning.


Where is the anchor light, deck light and a red cabin light switches 
going to be? Unconventional, but there is an argument to have them 
all outside too.


Dammit, precious little starts to get complicated :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:39 PM 08/04/2015, you wrote:

So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the 
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel 
with 15 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 
1-2-all-off switch.


The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been 
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new 
electric motor charger and the second one going to the new smart 
charger for the house bank. On the starboard side of the 
companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have been 
converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF 
radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition 
WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.


The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel 
to the locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to 
have a sub panel (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine 
instruments were.


So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would 
be switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The 
engine installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I 
can use for whatever.


Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched 
from the cabin panel.


Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire 
to the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.


Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

a...@airsensing.com


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Re: Stus-List CC in Sail Magazine

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

That is a fine looking anchorin' arrangement. It 
looks like a well developed unit similar to one 
that is on an early Hinterholler's yacht at my 
club. (Similar size to a 35 mk-1.) I really like 
the details to stow  pin the anchor shank on the upper support, brilliant.


I think the best guess that the sprit thingy is 
for a assy is correct. Check out the blue braid , 
with white tracer. It leads into the centre of 
the sprit thingy, by the look of it. I agree it 
does not appear well supported, not much of a 
socket and 4 little rivets?? I can't see an 
attachment for any kind of lower stay for the thing.


The boat licence number is indicative of being 
Canadian, 50L  or 60L . A number  letter 
followed by a serial number is an old system. I 
couldn't find any area listings on the Transport 
Canada site to get an idea of where she might be. 
(Example: an old Nanaimo number was 13K 1354, my runabout, circa late 70s.)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:45 PM 08/04/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary==_NextPart_000_00AE_01D0723C.FBF9CA00
Content-Language: en-us

Don’t recognize the boat, but do recognize the 
anchor arrangement. It is called an “anchor 
carrier” and is made by a company in the 
Toronto area. I first saw it in a string about 
anchor rollers for our old boats  on this list 
several years ago, and was going to get one made 
for my 38. IIRC, the owner of one of the 
Canadian boats – Tangerine? – was the source for 
the he supplier. The supplier could never get 
the proper dimensions to have an anchor carrier 
constructed for the 38. They were looking for a 
boat in that area from which they could get 
measurements and just never gave me a shipping 
date, so I ended up having a local fabricator 
make a bow pulpit for me. I think the anchor 
guides pointed out in the photo are an option for the anchor carrier.


The pole looks like a fold down sprit for an 
a-sail. An extended mount for the block to carry 
an a-sail was to be part of my anchor carrier, 
along with a stainless rod and bracket that 
would act like a bobstay to carry the loads from 
the spinnaker. If this is a fold up sprit, it 
doesn’t look particularly robust. But then we 
aren’t seeing the entire arrangement and maybe 
there are provisions for mounting it that we can’t see.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 2:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC in Sail Magazine

http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/things-work-chain-guide/?utm_source=sail-enewsletterutm_medium=emailutm_content=textlinkutm_campaign=enewsletterhttp://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/things-work-chain-guide/?utm_source=sail-enewsletterutm_medium=emailutm_content=textlinkutm_campaign=enewsletter

Anyone we know?  What is that pole on the port side?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

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Re: Stus-List sailing books - now grounded from sailing

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks for the heads up Dennis. No way I'm going 
in to see a Doctor now, after hearing a story like that. Hoo boy! :)


Oh, and get well soon my boy. We don't need another 35 mk-1 on the market...

I can't really help you out with sailing book 
recommendations. The last book I read was, 
WICKED. The Life  Times of the Wicked Witch of the West.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 01:20 PM 05/04/2015, you wrote:

Chuck,

Your grounding could be worse.

Couple weeks ago I went in for a heart stress 
test after feeling a twinge under  my left 
armpit.  Stress test turned into a trip to the 
catheterization lab followed by a double bypass 
later that night.  I'm a bonafide member of the zipper club now.


Complete surprise.  No other blockages anywhere.  Very strange.

Recovering quickly.  Walking several miles a 
day but sailing is off the schedule for a 
while.  Can't grind a winch with a split open sternum.Â


Guess I'll make a trip to the library.  Oh, 
wait.  I can't drive for two more weeks.  :(  Sucks.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Apr 5, 2015 at 1:21 PM, Chuck S via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I've been binge reading John Kretschmer's books, 
because the flu has me grounded.




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Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Leslie,

Why would you max size a wire spec?

I can't think of any practical situation where a little too big is 
not good and the shorter runs are better too.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:33 PM 06/04/2015, you wrote:
minor addition, the charge current is limited by the recommended 
wiring between the banks.  From memory, a minimum length of 6 feet 
and maximum size of 6 SWG.  (please check before using this info.) 
Leslie Phoenix CC32 1983
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Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

It's okay Josh.

Wally is a geek, he knows. I think he was just entertaining himself. 
Maybe it gets lonely sometimes in Mexico after the sun goes down. :)


Cheers, Russ
east side, Vancouver Island

At 06:13 PM 04/04/2015, you wrote:

All analog meters are just measuring the voltage drop across a 
resistance.  The key is to have the appropriate voltage input 
+12v.  If the +12v and the sensing line were reversed then the 
voltage drop would be negative driving the needle to the empty peg.


Josh
On Apr 4, 2015 7:08 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I thought they were Ohm meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to make 
sure, and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel sender resistance.


Wal

you wrote:
I agree with your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed polarity...of the
sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the fuel gages are just voltage meters.  They
respond proportionally to the voltage drop across the variable resistance
in the sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm meter to
measure and validate the resistance of the senders.  Switching the polarity
of the sense and gnd monetarily probably won't break anything.  Before
doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached picture.
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Re: Stus-List Sailing Sunday in Vancouver?

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

What rain? It's just a little damp.

I miss my Sunday Race Day this weekend with the Schooner Cover gang. :(

Work. And you know what the gentry say, Work is 
the curse of the drinking class.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:06 PM 20/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-GB
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary=_000_201503210406116291540868894885Purolatorcom_

‎I'm in Vancouver this weekend for work Saturday and Monday.
Is anyone racing out of Vancouver on Sunday 
looking for crew, or just want to get out for a sail if this rain ever stops?

Contact me off list, Thanks.

Jay
CC30 visiting from frozen Ontario...

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Re: Stus-List Awl grip deck and re-bed toe rail of 35MkI

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Glen,

I thought this subject was familiar and dug up an old message I sent 
out last year, as below. It was two years ago that we completed the 
deck repaint using two pot polyurethane.


Rest assured, the toe rails do not spring back to straight and 
require very little flexing to line up the holes again on install. In 
regards to boat projects it's not nearly as big as an engine swap. 
Tedious, yes. Difficult, no. If my starboard rail starts leaking it 
will be off in short order and redone.


Each year I think that the port side needs to be taken up a bit, 
since a wee gap is showing between inboard edge and deck, but no leaks.


Now, let's start a new thread on replacing that Atomic 4 with a nice 
diesel because they're so much better. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




I've done the port side toe-rail. Starboard not leaking yet :)

No big deal except a few nuts are difficult to get at.
- remove toe rail, two parts
- clean up corrosion and repair with Devcon or other epoxy/metal 
repair compound

- sand repair areas and paint (I used flat black spray paint)
- apply butyl tape  reinstall (do not tighten hard, just a wee bit 
o' squeeze on butyl)

- rinse  go for a sail

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1







At 01:41 PM 17/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary=_000_ADEC5B81F0194F47A7D84C7163DB74C5017A1B23DBms1tmcalocal_

Hello everyone,

I am planning to keep Freya IV out of the water this summer to redo 
the toe rail and get rid of the wet core on the deck.   I understand 
this is a big project and I have professional help on core repair 
and the awl grip job to get it done.  That said, I would greatly 
appreciate assistance on re-bedding the toe rail and any issues that 
anyone has come across in prepping the deck for priming/painting.  I 
have given myself until next May to get everything done, although I 
want the toe rail re-bedded and the deck painted by this fall at the 
latest.  I have other projects to complete over the winter-and 
no I will not be replacing the Atomic 4.


I love my 35 mk I. Hopefully this will bring her to showroom 
condition.   Thanks in advance.


Glen Eddie
Tel:  416-777-5357
Fax:  1-888-812-2557
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines on an LF 38

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jonathan,

My preference is outside the shrouds and use the high side for 
transit. I feel there is no clear consensus amongst skippers, seems 
pretty close to 50 - 50 which way to go with the jacklines.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 12:25 PM 16/03/2015, you wrote:
I know the logic behind leading the jack lines inside the shrouds, 
(close to the centerline etc), but on the 35-5 I find the easiest 
way forward is to go outside the shrouds on the windward side. Most 
of my tethers are single point attachment, so I don't want crew 
using them to unclip at any time once out of the cockpit. Short of 
buying new tethers, should I be doing something different


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Mar 16, 2015, at 15:01, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 inside the shrouds

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Re: Stus-List New LF38 owner and blog

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick
And welcome to the list.
You caught us at a busy time as we were deciding 
whether to renovate. It turns out that we're just 
gonna leave things as it is and maybe go sailing.


It's been warm eh.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side Vancouver Island

At 08:51 PM 15/03/2015, you wrote:

Hi,Â

I just wanted to introduce myself to the group 
since I'll probably be posting a few questions 
here soon - this group is super helpful!Â


My fiancee and I are new LF38 owners in Seattle, 
and are keeping a blog here:Â


http://www.svviolethour.comwww.svviolethour.com

Feel free to subscribe and follow along!

-Patrick
CC 38 Landfall
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List Email client details

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

I have my email client as POP and there is a 
setting to leave messages the on server x number 
of days. I have it set to 15 days, after which 
Eudora will delete the expired messages. I guess 
that's why I still use Eudora, a good old girl 
and less virus risk than iStuff or Mac and WAY 
less risk than Outlook. No one writes code for Eudora anymore. :)


Cheers, Russ
HP Pavillion, XP sp3 (in lieu of boat reference)


At 07:29 AM 15/03/2015, you wrote:
Jonathan — you’re right.  Setting your mail 
client up as IMAP rather than as a POP client 
means that all messages will stay on the email 
server, and then be copied to all IMAP clients 
of that account when they connect.  I’ve got my 
Gmail account set up that way on my MacBook Pro, 
iPhone and iPad, and everything stays 
synchronized; so it appears to work for Google 
Mail.  I’ve also got several personal and work email accounts set up that way.


With POP, as soon as a client connects, the 
message is downloaded from the server to that 
client only; there’s no good way to keep things synchronized.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 14, 2015, at 11:09 PM, Indigo via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I am no expert - but believe you have to set up 
your email account as an IMAP account rather 
than POP3. With IMAP, the various mail clients 
are synchronized so that if you delete an email 
on one device, it is deleted from all. (I have 
4 devices from which I can read / send emails - 
so it was critical for me to have this 
feature). I don't use gmail - I have my own 
domain with godaddy and it was not difficult to 
set the account as IMAP - not sure if gmail can be so easily configured


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Sam,

If your cockpit sole is at an elevation where the leeward drain is 
below the waterline when heeled then crossed drain hoses prevent 
water coming into the low corner and getting the binoculars and empty 
beer cans wet.


I have vertical drain hoses and no problems.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:01 AM 15/03/2015, you wrote:
Changing the subject slightly, my cockpit drains are not crossed, 
they go straight down, and work fine.
I don't get the theory of crossing drains. Seems to me that a 
crossed drain will start to approach horizontal as the boat heels 
and work less well.


So what's the logic behind crossed cockpit drains?

sam :-)
CC 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

HI Stu,

List please.

This list feels more like family than any forum I 
used to visit. I say, ...used to visit. 'cause 
somehow I just drift away from them eventually.
It's so much nicer when the messages come to me. 
(Even the hundred or more after a vacation :)


Cheers, Russ


At 02:32 PM 13/03/2015, you wrote:
Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated 
that they would like to have a “Forum” 
similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” 
instead of an email list (like this one).


PROS:
1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list
2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.
3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.
4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.
5. Easily moderated by more than one 
person.  Threads can be deleted and undesirable subscribers blocked.
6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site 
at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit.


CONS:
1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 
depending on additional enhancements.
2. Might (???) require additional disk space and 
bandwidth on hosting site. ()
3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it 
does takee some time.  And a bit more time 
involved to get it tweeked to perfection.


Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or 
continue using this list?  It does not matter to me.


Stu

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Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Was it just last year a bunch of guys back east were complaining 
about having not enough water? :)


Nice day here for a ride on the motorcycle, then go sailing perhaps. 
No racing though, that is every other weekend.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk1
East side o' Vancouver Island



At 04:55 AM 13/03/2015, you wrote:
You're not alone... the Ohio River is above flood stage from Ohio 
through Illinois; we are currently at 26 ft. and predicted to go 
another1-2 feet by Monday, (flood stage is 23 ft; normal pool 
stage is 12 ft.)


Richard
1985 Cc 37; Ohio River, mile 596; (happily on a floating dock)
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255




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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Oh! That makes sense.

My brain read Aires comment as generic engineering...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:45 PM 11/03/2015, you wrote:

h...

Genetic engineering

The possibilities...the possibilities...



David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



--
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2015 22:41:58 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this 
list.  This group has an amazing array or talents and experiences, 
not just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
questions on that topic.  Sigh!
I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what 
gets this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well 
each works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting 
wrenches dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the 
bilge in salt water.  No more ratcheting happening there.
As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave



Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT

[]

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Re: Stus-List registration in Canada

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brad,

Do you have a Ship's Registrar nearby? We are a Port of Registry and 
in the old days (when I did these) each POR had a Ship's Registrar. 
Ours was very helpful, I still remember her name, Barb. I probably 
have done five boats with her before she retired.


I can imagine with the centralization that service has gone way downhill.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1 (licensed only)

At 07:47 PM 06/03/2015, you wrote:
Now we're getting to the root of the problem, I don't have any info 
from the original purchaser, and the builder has gone bankrupt, what 
do I present to the govt. to prove whatever it is they are looking 
for? And what do these poor folks do in Florida when they land in a 
licensed boat (not registered) and don't have the paperwork to 
provide to register the boat in their home port in Canada? Thus far 
I haven't got the answer I need from transport Canada either, will 
be in contact again Monday



Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List registration in Canada

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Oh yeah. One more thing.
I suggest you check around with a couple of boat brokers. Some of 
these guys must know someone who knows their way around this landscape.


Cheers, Russ


At 07:47 PM 06/03/2015, you wrote:
Now we're getting to the root of the problem, I don't have any info 
from the original purchaser, and the builder has gone bankrupt, what 
do I present to the govt. to prove whatever it is they are looking 
for? And what do these poor folks do in Florida when they land in a 
licensed boat (not registered) and don't have the paperwork to 
provide to register the boat in their home port in Canada? Thus far 
I haven't got the answer I need from transport Canada either, will 
be in contact again Monday



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Re: Stus-List Registration in Canada

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Brad
The builder's certificate can be found here as a PDF:
http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Corp-Serv-Gen/5/Forms-Formulaires/searchrs.aspx?formnumber=84-0040

This is the info site for registering:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/oep-vesselreg-registration-menu-2311.htm#firsttime

This is the home site:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/oep-vesselreg-registration-menu-2311.htm#registering


Good luck. It's been so long since I've gone through the builder's 
path of registry that my knowledge is out of date.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:30 PM 05/03/2015, you wrote:
I'm sure that some of my fellow Canadians have actually registered 
(not licensed) their boats with the Feds. I'd appreciate some more 
of your generous help. What exactly are they looking for when they 
ask for the builders certificate? I don't see anything like that in 
the documentation I have. Background, 1985 CC 33 purchased in  USA 
this winter. To the best of my knowledge it was sold new in the US. 
I bought from who is likely the second owner, so it is a new registration.
The other question I have is concerning the tonnage, is the 
simplified tonnage method acceptable? Should my boat be 6.85 tons?

Thank you
Brad

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!rt
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Re: Stus-List holes in fresh water tank

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

To let the water out? :)

At 10:01 AM 03/03/2015, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary=_000_BY1PR0801MB0869755F7A71CD883C86CF34D1110BY1PR0801MB0869_

I own a 1972 cc 39 and it has two hole in bottom of tank any ideas as to why
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm and raymarine

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bradley,

Wouldn't you know it, I have one of those at my boat. Pre-Raytheon 
days. I'm not sure mine even works anymore.


I say at my boat because I took it off during a boat work period 
some time ago and never got around to reinstalling. So I believe 
you're on the right path to use the boat for a couple of season 
before committing to an autopilot upgrade.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:15 PM 02/03/2015, you wrote:
Well I was over to see the boat today, brought the Autohelm 4000 
control box home with me. Appears like its an original so there will 
be no chance of communication going on between it and the new stuff. 
:(( no trace of anything other than Autohelm4000 and made in 
England so it's got to be as old as dirt!


Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Non slip, trending to gel oat

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Barbara,

Are you racing with a crew now or did you mean to say that you have a 
few dings on your hull?  If racing, they will dislike being sprayed 
by the yard. :)


Anyhow, best to check with an insurance adjuster type dude. He will 
know the best gelcoat colour match wizard in your area to fix any 
dings. The wizard won't be the cheapest guy who can do the job.


Long story short on paint vs. gelcoat for a hull is that a modern 
poly paint is relatively economical and easy to apply with good gear 
and experience, it is durable and lasts a long time and not many 
people are good at spraying gelcoat on large surfaces to achieve 
stellar results (short working time  environmental constraints).


So, I painted my topsides to renew looks  non-skid and will continue 
polish the hull. YOM is 1972


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

BTW, this is a resend and reminder to strip sh*t off the message that 
is unnecessary, it was too large. My bad I didn't do it the first 
try. So sorry.


At 05:56 AM 27/02/2015, you wrote:
Putting kiwigrip on my deck this spring is on my list. I've read and 
heard so many good things, and the YouTube videos look like it's not 
a difficult boat job to get a really nice finish with.  Here's my question:
  My hull has never been painted, she has the original white 
gelcoat and it buffs up nicely and has a good shine when that 
happens.  There are a few dinks on the hull that keep her from 
looking pristine: 2 on the bow from dock landings, a couple on the 
sides when practicing backing in a current, blah blah.  I'd prefer 
to pay someone to get these places back to looking original than 
learning gelcoat repair myself and really screw it up.   Would a 
good boat yard that paints boats be able to spray gelcoat and match 
it?  I've read the matching is the hard part?   Would said yard 
have to spray the entire hull or just the few dinks?  If they have 
to spray the entire hull for it to look good, would it be better to 
just have the hull painted?  Why do boats get painted rather than 
leave them original gelcoat since gelcoat can be colored when the 
boat is manufactured?

Thanks for your input.

Barbara H. Fellers
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Re: Stus-List Non-Slip

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Damn.

The plan did seem a bit risky but I was looking 
forward to hear how it turned out.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:31 PM 26/02/2015, you wrote:

I have one word. Kiwi Grip.

OK, it's two. Sue me. Pressing a mold into 
rapidly curing gelcoat sounds like an incredibly 
painful thing to do to yourself.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 26 February 2015 at 17:48, Paul Hood via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to 
do the following project that I’m working 
through. I bought my boat from the original 
owner 2 years ago and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip.


Â

I have removed all deck hardware with the 
exception of the toe rail, sanded down the 
existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am 
preparing to spray gelcoat over the entire 
deck.  Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off 
areas for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat 
followed immediately by the pressing of the 
Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip.


Â

http://www.gibcoflexmold.comwww.gibcoflexmold.com

Â

I know this is different than the original 
roll-on finish, but I think the Gibco wears 
better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear 
skin, and looks much better to boot.  My hope 
is that the grip is better than rolled as it is 
more consistent throughout.  There are dozens 
of patterns and since I’m not matching, I’m 
getting the one claiming to have the best 
grip.  It will be definitely better than 
current as the surface is chalked throughout and 
worn in many areas.  In addition, there was a 
deck repair some years back and the color is 
visibly different and the surface below the 
non-slip repair is thin and almost see through.Â


Â

I’m waiting for this months -20c temperatures 
to move out before I start heating and spraying surface.  Canadian winters….


Â

Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if 
so, do you have any hints.  I’m sure there 
are lots of opinions here and I know I’m about 
to open the can of worms on many levels but I’d like to hear what you think.


Â

Thanks,

Paul Hood

1982 CC34

Â

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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Wal,

Murray had a follow-up question to your situation:
Can you include a list of what he has on hand?



At 08:10 PM 22/02/2015, you wrote:

Hi Wally,

This helpful hint from the Medical Officer, 
Amazing Grace crew in response to the forward I sent out.


We had a beautiful day on the course today. 10 
knot breeze, 12 C  (54 F) and sunny all day. I 
think this promise of global warming thing is 
working okay for the West Coasters. :)

Line honours was easy but we corrected to first by FIVE seconds! Whew.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

*
I'd say try KY Jelly as it comes in a tube instead and is water soluble.

Murray

**
On Sunday, February 22, 2015, Russ  Melody 
mailto:russ...@telus.netruss...@telus.net wrote:


Any ideas for this wayward sailor in Mexico?
Stella Blue is a CC Landfill 38. He's been 
cruising there more than a few years now.

Cheers, Russ



From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-To: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Okay, I've had it.  This is the second 
time.  I've noticed over the last many years 
that plastic bottles here in Mexico tend to 
bereally thin.  A few years ago a bottle of 
Marvel Mystery Oil exploded in my cockpit, but 
at that time it was on the sole and made a huge mess on the ocean.
Today another bottle exploded on me when I 
tried to open it.  It was just a result of 
cheap plastic packaging.  My entire cockpit, 
including myself and the swimming trunks that I 
wear, are covered in Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.

Eff this stuff.
Wal














At 05:19 PM 22/02/2015, you wrote:
Actually, to be totally honest, I wasn't 
wearing swim trunks.   Does anyone know how to 
safely remove Marvel Mystery Oil from the male 
genitalia?  I sent an email to Moyer Marine but haven't heard back.


Please don't suggest Acetone.  I tried that.  Ouch.  VBG

Wal

I wrote:
My entire cockpit, including myself and the 
swimming trunks that I wear, are covered in 
Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm at anchor, so this is a big deal.




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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ron,

Are you talking about the original event or spill containment? :)

Good question really, there was only one bottle but...

Cheers, Russ
Sweet mk-1

At 01:02 PM 23/02/2015, you wrote:

Wally,
You may want to wrap them individually in plastic grocery bags and 
duct tape.  At least if they crack they'd be contained.

Like a UST, need secondary containment!
Ron
Wild Cheri
CC 30-1
STL


On Mon, 2/23/15, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil
 To: Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, February 23, 2015, 9:51 AM

 Russ wrote:
  This helpful hint from the Medical
 Officer, Amazing Grace crew in
 
 response to the forward I sent out. snip

 Thanks Russ - Down here in
 Mexico they don't have that, but they do have
 something called Benzal that is the same
 thing.  That's good for a
 giggle.
 One must be careful, though, as there are two kinds of
 Benzal.
 One's a lubricant, the other
 is for yeast infections. If you don't know
 your Spanish, it's easy to get them mixed
 up.

 In the end it took an
 entire bottle of dish soap to emulsify the stuff.
 I feel like writing them a letter and showing
 them a picture of the
 cracked plastic
 bottle.  All I did was pick it up and the plastic
 cracked.  Grr.

 Joe - I put a capful in the gas for my
 outboard, as well as in the Honda
 2000.
 You can also put it in diesel and crankcase oil, but I
 don't.

 Wal

 --
 s/v Stella
 Blue
 www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

Here's the original message:

All,
Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a 
handheld VHF with DSC this season.
Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
the GPSStore for $125.00

Any reason I should not buy this unit?
35/3

Joel


so far the HX851 @ $125 looks like a deal

Try to keep up eh. :)

Cheers, Russ

At 06:06 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary==_NextPart_000_004E_01D04E11.DA72C6B0
Content-Language: en-us

Help me understand the original requirement;  Is it to have DSC on 
the vessel and it can be either a fixed or handheld radio? Or is it 
handheld only?




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Bill Bina via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 5:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

The HX851 has GPS and it floats.

http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProductsProdCatID=85ProdID=1558DivisionID=3

Bill Bina

On 2/21/2015 5:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Personally, I'd pop extra $$ for the new HX870.  It floats and has 
built in GPS.  If I'm in the water, I'd want the thing broadcasting 
my location.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

All,

Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will require a 
handheld VHF with DSC this season.


Looking at a Standard Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from 
theGPSStore for $125.00


Any reason I should not buy this unit?

35/3
The Office
Annapolis
Joel
tel:301%20541%208551301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Spares

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Well, the ad does say you can have self-tailing winches at a fraction 
of new price 1/3 is a fraction :)


At 12:54 PM 21/02/2015, you wrote:

$1300 USD per pair??? Did you add an extra zero?
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis!

That is my thought too. I'm glad you presented it.

Get the sink closer to centreline.
Seems like a lot of newer design have that 
common flaw. I wonder why the CC team didn't recognize it ... :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

BTW, it's not really siphoning into so much as flooding out of, the sink.

At 06:51 PM 20/02/2015, you wrote:

1) Don't put your wallet in the sink!
2) Upgrade to a 35-1.  It doesn't do this.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 5:32 PM, mike amirault 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
On a  CC 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt 
(or lake) water filling up the sink in the head 
when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was 
filling up and overflowing unless the sink plug 
was in or the drain cock closed. I suppose the 
proper thing for a seaman to do would be to 
close the drain cock but this can be 
inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check 
valve and this worked but it is not of marine 
quality and is corroding. I don't think a vented 
loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?


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Re: Stus-List Windows and floorboards add strength

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Chuck.

Please stop at I'm not an engineer.

You are correct in the window muse. The design 
does add to overall deck stiffness which 
contributes to structure stiffness. This is not 
to be confused with increased righting moment by anyone, I hope.


Regarding floorboards, do you mean the sole or 
the floors? And by stiffening the design, do you 
mean She can carry more sail with this 
improvement!  (the aforementioned right moment) or a less springy sole?
There are far too many areas to list in weight 
saving activities before considering a move to an aluminum honeycomb sole.


I ask not facetiously but because Amazing Grace 
has Kevlar reinforce floors and a normal teak  
holly plywood sole. This boat was a no expense 
spared racing machine in the early 80s, to show 
they had it figured out way back when.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1

At 09:23 PM 13/02/2015, you wrote:

I'm not an engineer but I do re-engineer many systems they dream up.
I think the fixed windows do add strength and 
without them the structure has to be weaker.
They help support the coachroof which does 
create an arch between the flatter deck sections.


Also, floorboards.  You might stiffen up an old 
design by changing from wooden plywood to an aluminum honeycomb sandwich.
But would the cost be worth it?  Probably not 
unless you needed to replace them.





--
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: dwight dwight...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 2:53:25 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

Dwight — if I might jump in here, my 
understanding is that the glued-in acrylic ports 
became a unified part of the cabintop structure, 
and stiffened the structure; NOT that they made 
the boat stiffer in terms of sailing characteristics.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 12, 2015, at 1:15 PM, dwight veinot via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Rick

Is it really true that the designers at CC 
expected glued on acryllic ports to stiffen the whole boat


Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.netd.ve...@bellaliant.net



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Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Okay, here goes:

Windoze XP SP3 and Eudora 7.1.0.9 (the original, not the one running 
under a modern shell) and Avira anit-virus


No problem receiving message body, except the occasional field code 
imbedded if sent from mobile device


Now you all know that I'm a tech dinosaur. :)

Cheers, Russ
HP Pavilion 1324, east side Vancouver Island


At 07:24 AM 23/01/2015, you wrote:
IT might be a big help to Stu, if when you report an issue, you 
mention what type of device you are using, the operating system 
name, and version and whatever email or browser client you are 
using. Just saying, It's broke doesn;t help solve the problem, 
which might be limited to just one particular thing you all have in 
common. I'm using Windows 7 on a desktop PC with Mozilla Thunderbird 
for email, and it works fine for me. I also have no problem with it 
on my Android phone.


Bill Bina


On 1/23/2015 10:06 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:


This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to 
subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detailhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail
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Add me to the list

jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
CC 39 TM


On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to 
subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detailhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail
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Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list has subject
and then just the signature tag This list is provided by ...  (see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List 
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] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List

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Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

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Re: Stus-List CC 37+ engine size

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Fuel cost comparison is a red herring.
For most people on this list the amount spent on motoring boat fuel 
this winter is remarkably the same whether the auxiliary power is 
electric, gasoline or diesel. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:13 PM 12/01/2015, you wrote:

As gasoline engines go the Atomic 4 has a flat torque curve.
There are various version of the A4 around, but the common 30 HP
variant had about 35 ft/lbs at 1000 RPM, and peaks around
43 ft/lbs. From about 1800 RPM to 3500 RPM it stayed within
about +/- 1.5 ft/lbs.

If you compare the Beta Marine 25 HP diesel ( BD902 ) it has a
similar curve, maybe +/- 2.5 ft/lbs from 1600 to 3600.

Since HP come from torque x RPM the HP curves are similar.

 On a 27 - 32 moderate displacement sailboat the Atomic 4 and
a 1:1 transmission was an adequate match. A target would be to
maintain 70 - 80% of hull speed at around 1800 RPM with some
head wind and seas.  On an A4 that would be around 13 HP.

Fuel economy? I went by a gas station earlier today. Gas was
$0.81 a litre, diesel was $1.15 a litre. Ouch!

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1

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Re: Stus-List Dorade

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Peter and welcome fellow lister,

Try this for search ideas:
http://www.stevestonmarine.com/Marine-Boat-Hose-and-Cowl-Vents

Were you out sailing this day or just checking the boat which is 
code for spending time aboard with a hot rum and looking out the hatch?


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island




At 11:06 AM 27/12/2014, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary==_NextPart_000_00F5_01D021C5.1E4F93F0
Content-Language: en-ca

Hello all: this is my first post on cnc-list. I carelessly knocked a 
vent overboard. Does anyone know of a source? I expect it was the 
original item that fits over a 3.25 spigot.

Thanks.
Peter
'79 CC30
Oenone
Vancouver BC.

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Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dan,

As you probably know, raindrops bounce. You must 
keep the bounce out of the vent hole into the 
boat.  What you linked is essentially a hood, 
next is required a baffle to keep the wet from 
getting below and a box to make it all elegant.


With this arrangement it does not need something 
that can close during downpours.  However, if you 
simply attach a vent then you will need something 
that can close during downpours.


The current best arrangement was popularized by 
the racing yacht Dorade and became known as the dorade vent.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 03:51 PM 27/12/2014, you wrote:
I’m wanting to install a vent on my CC 26 and 
curious on how the rain is kept out?  Seems I 
live in the Pacific North West where we have an 
abundant of moisture.  Does it have something 
that can be closed during downpours.


Thanks,

Dan






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Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

To all Listers  Lurkers,

Melody  I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter.

Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America 
between ~ 3 - 6 PM local time.


A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also 
have a New Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well.


We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and 
maybe some hot rums. :)


Wish you could be here, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
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