Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

+ 1  on Garhauer, I like mine.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 10:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

 

Bruce,

 

Garhauer makes very nice adjustable car system. Look up “Garhauer adjustable 
genoa car system”. A few pictures here (not my boat ((:-(): 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hq9xfaayl2n3b9v/AAAbFxc4HSJ8GMhukyZq1AR4a?dl=0 .

 

Marek

 

I am thinking of adding cars to my jib track that I can adjust from the cockpit 
via lines (rather than the pinned adjustable cars I have now), so if you have a 
photo of that type of setup, that would be greatly appreciated as well.

 

Thanks as always for your help,

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092   (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  


 

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Re: Stus-List Fun Race Last Night

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I remember that Randy is on a lake in Colorado. More than likely his burst of 
speed is the hull settling into the water as it goes faster and thus increasing 
the waterline – and/or being heeled over which also increases the waterline. 
When my 30-1 gets the rail in the water in 20-30 knots of wind, I am generally 
too busy to look at the speed.

 

I’m sure all of you nautical types remember the war stories about clipper ships 
going so fast they literally bury themselves as the make a bigger and bigger 
hole in the water. I am not interested in trying that.

 

Oh well.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 2:01 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Race Last Night

 

Remember your GPS gives you speed over ground, while Hull Speed is speed over 
the water.  A one knot favorable current can easily explain the difference.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Fri, May 19, 2017 at 1:16 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

GPS is usually in miles per hour IIRC.  Knots is faster by about 15%, so 6.7kt 
times 1.15 would be about 7.7mph.

Unless your GPS is set in kt in which case this is all wrong.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

 


  _  


From: RANDY via CnC-List  >
To: cnc-list  > 
Cc: RANDY  >
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Race Last Night

 

I'm just as surprised as anyone.  I know that 1.34 times the square root of 
24.75 (Grenadine's waterline in feet) is 6.67 knots.  But apparently that's 
only a very general rule - see 
http://www.boats.com/reviews/crunching-numbers-hull-speed-boat-length 

  and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hull_speed.  At 9,000 pounds displacement I 
guarantee I'm not planing :)

 

But I assume GPS doesn't lie.  On June 22nd last year I was using RaceQs during 
a race.  I forgot to switch it off after finishing, so it recorded Grenadine 
sailing for fun in the 25-33mph gusts that piped up after the race, under full 
main and 150% genoa (which tore that night, before I could get a rail in the 
water).  If you watch this replay from 19:42:50-19:43:00 local time, you'll see 
Grenadine going 7.5 knots over ground according to RaceQs GPS-based iPhone app: 

http://raceqs.com/tv-beta/tv.htm#userId=1032518 

 
=41508=2016-06-23T03:05:38Z=2016-06-22T18:08:05-06:00..2016-06-22T21:05:54-06:00=Grenadine

 

I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth :)  Maybe at 25 degrees of heel 
my waterline length is appreciably longer than 24.75 feet.  Or maybe I just 
have to give credit to George Cassian, George Cuthbertson, and Rob Ball for 
designing a faster-than-predicted hull form.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 


  _  


From: "David Knecht via CnC-List"  >
To: "CnC CnC discussion list"  >
Cc: "David Knecht"  >
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 1:25:19 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fun Race Last Night

 

Theoretical hull speed of a C 30 is 6.7 knots (based on 25’ water line).  How 
are you hitting 7.6-8?  Foils?  Dave

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
blue”. The documentation is outstanding.

 

Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless 
I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Davis 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Davis 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

 

Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
have pictures as well please email me some directly.  

 

Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his 
website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for other 
projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job documenting his 
work.

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html

 

On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Hey Brian, 

 

I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the halyard 
to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure 
the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to 
be lifted.

 

Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.

 

Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the boom 
just forward of the dodger.

 

Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 
37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but 
also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours is a 
37?

 

Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Greetings everyone,

 

I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I have 
the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on 
the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that 
keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her the SS cable that 
connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below 
and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other.  Not sure 
how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek block that I need to replace 
on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I 
don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance.

 

Regards,

-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

  

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avast.com 

 

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-- 

Brian Davis

1980 C Landfall 38

"Nina"

Southeast Florida

  

 

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Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Start with the water intake and chase it down, step by step. I ended up finding 
a very old piece of an impeller near one of the zincs (check those early, there 
is one at each end of the engine and they are easy to remove). The piece in my 
engine had been there for years, just bouncing around and once in a while 
blocking flow.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

 

All,

 

The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is 35 
years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew into 
it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean anything?). 
What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?

 

Thanks.

 

Joel

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List set screws

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

If it is like the one I just replaced on my 30-1, the two halves of the coupler 
are bolted together with four bolts which have lock washers. They are not set 
up for a lock wire. The aft part of the coupler is positioned on the shaft with 
a key and is held in place with two square headed lock bolts. These fit into 
dimples on the shaft and have provision for a lock wire. I ran the wire through 
one and then twisted it and ran it over to the other, ran through that and 
twisted some more. 

 

Gary

St. Michaels

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 9:51 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List set screws

 

Bill, 

 

I can't picture why there is inadequate room to lock wire the screws.  When you 
say perpendicular to the coupler I can't picture if that is perpendicular to 
the shaft or inline with the shaft.  I think you're describing inline with the 
shaft which makes me wonder why using a cotter pin wouldn't work?

 

Either way, lock wire should normally be routed in a figure 8 such that 
loosening of either or both of the bolts will result in the tightening of the 
wire.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Jun 11, 2017 4:31 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List"  > wrote:

All,
  I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring.  Shaft is seated in coupler 
and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in shaft..i 
know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts through drilled 
heads so can't come loose.  But, when seated the drilled holes in bolt heads 
are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no room to properly safety 
wire these..
I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety wire, 
BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws instead and 
stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead.
Thoughts..

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


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Re: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Look up 3m - they have industrial Velcro which is much stronger than the
homecenter variety.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

 

An easy fix would be to buy some adhesive Velcro tape and try if it would
hold. Some are better than others.

 

Marek

Ottawa, ON

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

From: RANDY via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 00:21
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY  
Subject: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

 

When I bought Grenadine she had two Ronstan winch handle pockets - the kind
with a velcro panel that sticks onto the boat with adhesive, then the pocket
itself velcros to that panel.

 

The other day I caught my shoe on the one in the cockpit, and pulled off the
pocket, velcro panel and all (the adhesive failed).  I contacted the company
and they don't sell replacement panels, and the customer service rep didn't
know what kind of adhesive was on it.

 

Anybody have a favorite winch handle pocket?  Or could recommend an adhesive
for re-glueing the velcro panel in the cockpit?

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

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Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

And we were talking last night about a club racer with a C 36 a few years ago 
who literally gutted the interior of his boat to get a trophy – damn expensive 
trophy…..

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go

 

It depends on if you view sailing as a Corinthian sport or a NASCAR type sport.

One team famously got caught making 7/8s scale cars, more than one got onto 
using fuel lines that were hugely bigger than needed, line an inch or two or 
three, to actually function as long fuel tanks.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry 
Hallgring Jr via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 11:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go

 

Go Pats!!!

Harry

Sent from my iPhone 8 beta


On May 4, 2017, at 11:10, David Kaseler via CnC-List  > wrote:

Kind of like under inflating footballs just a little.

Dave.

SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad


On May 3, 2017, at 7:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:

No problem.  Hack saw, bosun chair and poof!  Shorter spreaders.  :)

 

Seriously, could be a very subtle cheat for one design or PHRF.  The 35-1 class 
bylaws specify 3' 10.5" for spreader length.  Who would notice a couple inches 
whacked off?

 

Dennis C.

 

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:40 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  > wrote:

I really hate to be a nay sayer about anything in Sail magazine, but the last 
racing headsail I had made (a deck sweeper carbon fiber 155) was designed to be 
trimmed 4-6” off the upper spreader when hard on the wind – and the sail maker 
set the nominal sheet leads for 11 degrees sheeting angle. 

 

The process shown in the article (7 degrees for a 150 and 10 degrees for an 85) 
is fine for determining the forward and aft positions of the ends of the genoa 
track, and hence the track length. But your sailmaker will probably have a 
specific placement for the genoa car within that length of track depending on 
the shape of the sail and the width of your rig – among other things.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2017 11:49 AM
To: cnc-list  >
Cc: RANDY  >; 
cnc-list  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice - 1, 2 , 3 go

 

And I'll be measuring and setting sheeting angles a la 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/ once I get the 
time.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Siphoning bilge pump hose?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have a check valve on the discharge from the pump in the deep part of the 
sump. And, keep the Whale manual pump limber by working it fairly often, like 
after a rain when its intake is covered. I had to replace it when the old 
diaphragm was cracked and the whole thing was frozen up – from lack of use. My 
discharges are on the port side about a foot from the transom and just under 
the toe rail.

 

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Boyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 1, 2017 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Boyle 
Subject: Stus-List Siphoning bilge pump hose?

 

We had a nasty scare last night after our Wednesday night race.  We were 
motoring back to the dock - about a half hour trip and I climbed down the 
companionway into about 2 inches of bay water.  The bilge was full and 
overflowing as we motored along.  Inspection revealed no leaks that i could see 
from the engine compartment - shaft log, water pump, muffler and exhaust and 
thru hulls were all fine.  I jump up to the head and check all 3 thru hulls 
there - all dry.

 

We finally get the auto bilge pump working and pumped all the water out - and 
no more leak.  I believe that the float switch may have been stuck.

 

So here's my theory - under power the 30 MK1 tends to squat and the bilge 
outlet is below the water on the stern.  We had had rain the week before and I 
had neglected to turn on the manual switch to get out the last of any water in 
the bilge - the float switch always leaves a few cupfuls in the bilge.  I am 
thinking that while under way with the outlet submerged, the bilge pump cycled 
on.  Then - as usual - the remaining water in the hose flowed back into the 
bilge.  But this time with the outlet underwater, it started water siphoning 
into the boat.

 

After cleaning it all up I checked it in the morning - and it was dry as usual. 
 The bilge hose has a high loop in it but no air  break or check valve.  

 

I am thinking a check valve or an air break would keep this from happening 
again - any opinions would be welcome.

 

Oh - and I think I will fix the manual bilge pump that I have been putting off 
for a while!

 

thanks,

 

Joe 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used a small electric rotary pump which the boatyard mechanic uses. Five
gallons at a time, and the boatyard crane which is an old diesel unit will
take anything..

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 8:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Bill:

Just curioushow did you remove the diesel from the old tank?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-14 1:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:

Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by
Amazon in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and
straight hose connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
Two questions:
First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet
connector, can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really
tight to get the 90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust" out
of tank somehow.
Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the
engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck
filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
Thanks
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail






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Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I can look into the same at Miles River Yacht Club.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2017 3:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

 

I can get a spot at CRYC if needed. (Corsica River Yacht Club)

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2017 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Josh Muckley  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

 

Sounds good Dennis, thanks for responding.  Like I said, right now I'm just 
trying to find a location which is a good compromise for as many people as 
possible.  I'll probably come up with a list of a few possible places and then 
survey time/date slots.

 

Josh

On Wed, Sep 13, 2017, 12:21 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:

Thanks, Josh,

 

I'm done.  Nice survey design.

 

Suggest adding question on timing if you can.  That would be my main concern.  
I can drive/fly to anywhere.  However, I might have time conflicts.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Sep 13, 2017 at 10:57 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Having just completed the 6 hour drive home from the 2017 Northeast C 
Rendezvous in Greenport, NY, I'm pumped about the possibility of meeting and 
greeting other C owners next year.  Edd is already taking about having the 
2018 Northeast C Rendezvous in Port Jefferson, NY.  I strongly urge everyone 
to consider attending!  It was great to finally put faces to names/email 
addressed.  It was cool to see each other's boats and the innovative things 
each of us have done.  We would have loved to have met more people and seen 
more boats.  We would have loved to have brought Sea Hawk but the 6 hour drive 
would have been more like a 6 day sail and then 6 days back again!

 

In that same spirit I'm considering organizing a 2018 Mid-Atlantic C 
Rendezvous.  As the organizer I want to reinforce that this isn't MY 
rendezvous, it is OUR rendezvous.  I want as many people to come together by 
boat, car, plane, or train to share the experience.  Owners past, present, and 
future are all welcome.  I could probably use help in many ways and would be 
happy to take input, feedback and suggestions.  In its incipient stage I'm 
trying to narrow down level of interest and a location that will attract the 
most people.  After that we can narrow down a date/time.  And then after that 
we can iron out to the finer points.  To start with here is a survey.  I'll 
take the survey results and develop a location.  If you are at all interested 
in attending a 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous please take a moment to answer 
these few questions.

 

https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/MFT2GLY

 

 

Thanks,

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons,MD


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Re: Stus-List Foam in mast

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Lay the mast on saw horses and get some plastic pipe long enough to attach a 
hook and pull the damn stuff out. On a 35 year old boat it was flaking apart 
and making a mess, plus not doing much to quiet the wires in the mast. 

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2017 8:45 PM
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Foam in mast

 

I hope this is a common issue, and someone has found an answer. Our old 29-2 
and our current 35-3 both have some sort of foam in the mast above the top 
halyard exit plate. I was really lucky that I pulled a bundle of new wires 
through the foam on the 29, it was really touch and go as to whether my 
connections were up to the job. I have no idea how you would get a new halyard 
down if you lost it completely, there's no way you could get a bicycle chain 
through the foam just with gravity. 

 

So, has anyone figured out an answer? One that preferably worked in the real 
world... 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List opinions on cabin table

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Get a boat with a dinette, fixed table but not in the way.

Gary

30-1 (ancient)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lisle 
Kingery, PhD via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Subject: Stus-List opinions on cabin table

 

Hi all,

 

I'm interested in opinions about having a fixed table in the middle of the 
cabin vs. a table that folds down and out of the way when not in use. As I 
obsess over boat features this is emerging as an important consideration. I'll 
have 2 kids on board sometimes (ages 6 and 4) and I'm thinking having the open 
space might be really nice vs. having the table in the way all the time. Thanks 
in advance for any opinions on this issue.

 

Best regards,

 

Lisle

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Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I had to straighten a bit of my toe rail. I took it off to do so. 15 feet (one 
length) came off – about 55 bolts. Couldn’t get to some easily, should have 
removed the shelf in the vee berth area. A bear…. Two people about 5 hours.

 

But, two long strips of butyl, each bolt head coated with butyl (paint thinner 
takes that stuff off nicely) and careful tightening and another five or so 
hours with two people….

 

Not fun.

Gary Nylander

30-1

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak

 

Good luck with any 'spot' repairs. 

 

The yard just fixed a collision based leak of longstanding on my starboard bow 
quarter hull-deck joint and had to remove the bolts back to about mid-ship to 
get enough separation to reach the joint. This was about 6-8 times the

length of the leaking portion of the joint. On my boat, the toe rail is held on 
by the same bolts that hold the deck onto the hull.

 

Of course if its just the toe-rail (unlikely IMHO), removal doesn't require 
getting to and fixing any leaks at the hull-deck joint--but the bolts have to 
come off/be loosened either way.

If the rail was laid up with butyl, you may be able to squeeze it down by 
tightening only--but you must not allow the bolt to turn, only the nut, since 
the butyl seal depends on even pressure and turning

the bolt may cause the butyl to separate. 

 

In any case, you are looking at a 2 person job of many hours, assuming the nuts 
are all accessible without dismantling part of the inside of the cabin.

 

Also remember if you replace the butyl, tighten it up at least twice with a day 
or so between to allow the butyl to well set during the 2nd tightening. As the 
butyl 'oozes' out of the joint with pressure, the joint may become

physically loose again or at least it will not be as tight as it was after the 
first tightening.

 

FWIW

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

 

 

 

cenel...@aol.com  

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Christian Planton via CnC-List  >
To: cnc-list  >
Cc: Christian Planton  >
Sent: Tue, Oct 3, 2017 4:50 pm
Subject: Stus-List Toe rail leak

I know my toe rail leaks in a couple of places. Has anybody redone the whole 
thing? If yes about how much time did it take you? I am going to try to tighten 
the bolts first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take out each bolt and try 
to get in there as much B-tape as possible and then tighten. Any other thoughts 
or suggestions? 

 

Christian

Peer Gynt

1980 C 34


 

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org  .

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Re: Stus-List C 38 Auction

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The boat is a bit rough BUT comes with about 20 bags of sails, some of which 
have hardly (never?) been used (racing ones). Overall, it has a bunch of good 
stuff on it. It was neglected by elderly owners for a few years, but apparently 
has some serious results in the past.

 

Gary

CBMM Boat Donation Volunteer

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 8:46 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Brian Fry 
Subject: Stus-List C 38 Auction

 

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum auction on Sept 2 includes a C 38.

This is a no reserve auction. I have not seen the boat, but pics are available 
online through Flickr.

http://cbmm.org/boat-donation/4039-cc-38-mk-ii-sloop/

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Re: Stus-List C 38 Auction

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Bring it on! We have over 100 boats up for auction, including some dinghies
for those who want to learn to sail.. The 38 is the only C this year, but
there is a very nice J-24 which will probably go too cheap. I bought a Grady
White 20 a couple of years ago for less than the value of the trailer.

 

Gary

30-1

St. Michaels

Volunteer at Boat Auction Flea Market

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 38 Auction

 

I might bring a few hundred and see if I am the only bidder on something. 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 1:33 PM
To: Brian Fry via CnC-List  >
Cc: Aaron Rouhi  >; Brian Fry  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 38 Auction

 

I go this auction every year... The boats are generally in great shape. Some
boats go unbelievably cheap... 

 

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

  _  

From: CnC-List  > on behalf of Brian Fry via CnC-List
 >
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 8:45 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List C 38 Auction 

 

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum auction on Sept 2 includes a C 38. 

This is a no reserve auction. I have not seen the boat, but pics are
available online through Flickr.

http://cbmm.org/boat-donation/4039-cc-38-mk-ii-sloop/

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Agreed with Dennis. Be careful when you measure the old tank. Mine had the 
filler tube coming out of the tank on the top but then had a right angle in the 
filler tube which the filler hose fit over. I had a bear of a time finding a 
Moeller tank which fit, because they have the filler tube coming straight out 
of the top and not bent. I ended up with a smaller tank to fit under the 
cockpit sole, because of the difficulty in bending the filler hose (stiff as 
hell with wire inside) from near horizontal to vertical. Moeller has a wide 
selection.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 5:03 PM
To: robert 
Cc: Dennis C. ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

 

That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank back in. 
 

 

When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an almost 
new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4 years I 
repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing signs of 
pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.

 

Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of 
space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My guess 
is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.

 

You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  > wrote:

For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a good 
inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor which can 
be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
fuel/condensation. 

 

A new plastic tank is under $200.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List  > wrote:

That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I have 
yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" 
deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon tank that sits on 
an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom 
exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I can not see 
that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends on the bottom where the 
tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.

The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well maintainedsince 
I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water environment but the tank has 
not been subjected to salt water on it.

Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about 
replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.

Will keep you informed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it looks like 
that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing as special 
customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. 
Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a 
while.

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it very 
carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has been kept 
away the condition might surprise you.

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version was 19 gallons and made of aluminum. Last year, it started
weeping - small leak I couldn't find. Pulled it out and found a whole bunch
of tiny pinholes in the bottom where it rested on the plywood.

Look for Mueller tanks (Plastic) on Amazon. I did and ended getting mine
from an RV place in New Jersey. Better price but had to pay shipping. It
turned out to be the same cost overall.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank

I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and inspecting
it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List was considering C 25, now Pearson 27 or C 30

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

+1 on the 30-1. I've had ours for 24 years now and am still happy.

 

Gary

1980 #593 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 6, 2017 6:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List was considering C 25, now Pearson 27 or C 30

 

A C 30  > than a Pearson 27 and perhaps a 30. The C 30 MK I is very much
a "real boat" capable of major offshore work if you ever want to do it.

Given the depressed boat market, I see no reason to go smaller than you
need. 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Cleverboy
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2017 5:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Cleverboy  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List was considering C 25, now Pearson 27 or C 30

 

Hi Lisle;

I acquired my C 30 MK1 last year. I love it. My Destrier is practically
all original with no self tailing winches or roller furling headsail. Part
of it's charm to me. The only issue beyond my ability is that mine came with
a couple of soft spots. Especially the cockpit sole where PO installed a
handpump. Plenty of room below for 4 with over 6' of headroom. Stands up to
almost anything you would choose to sail in. 

Charles Ferrari

Bronx, NY

C 30 MK1

Destrier

  _  

From: CnC-List  > on behalf of Lisle Kingery, PhD via
CnC-List  >
Sent: Wednesday, September 6, 2017 8:40:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD
Subject: Stus-List was considering C 25, now Pearson 27 or C 30 

 

Hi all,

 

Update: I looked at the C and although it appeared to be a basically
solid boat, it feels a bit too small for a family of 4 and the headroom was
a bit low. I'm hearing a lot of "3-foot-itis" stories from sellers I'm
speaking with. So the search goes on. I've found an interesting 1987 Pearson
27 that looks promising, here is the link:

 

https://rochester.craigslist.org/bod/d/1987-pearson-27-2-sailboat/6281575540
.html

 

The one issue with the Pearson is that apparently it got struck by another
boat on the port bow side that required some repair. 

 

Also, I'm going to see a 1987 C 30 later today that looks promising. Link
here:

 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/C%26C-30-3079275/Rochester/NY/United-St
ates#.Wa-z9MiGNPY

 

Can someone with a C 30' tell me how large the v-birth actually is and
share any experience with the idea of a beginner sailor staring with a boat
like this?

 

thanks,

 

Lisle

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Look at the Moeller web site, they have a huge collection of tanks. I seem
to remember there is one which had an angled in fill on a corner which was a
little big for my boat, but may fit yours.

There is also a site called "fuel hoses" or similar with all sorts of
fittings including elbows - it may be "fuel hose elbows".  Google gave it to
me. As they are the same size as the hose, you need a little nipple.

Gary
.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7" 
top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove 
it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure 
the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
easy, maybe simply doable!

I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.  
Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part 
#.   The hunt is now on.

The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
now, that the tank will need to be replaced.

Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
acquire.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar 
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what 
> tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?  
> Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The bottom of my tank had a bunch of pin holes in the flat part. The seams
were fine.
Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I have been talking to boat owners at our club about these decades old
aluminum fuel tanks many of us C'ers have.a few have had the tanks
leak (or weep) as they call it.  The leak(s) were not caused by the
bottom(s) rusting (as aluminum does not rust, it corrodes) ..the leaks
were caused by stress cracks in the weld joints.

Two members took their tanks out for examination and found the leaks in the
weld joint(s)took the tank(s) to a metal fabrication shop and had them
repaired..actually had the weld joints reinforced and put the tanks back
in.  One member did it 10 years ago and the tank is still in his boat with
no problems.

I am leaning now in this direction.probably won't save me any money but
that is not as important as getting a new tank installed with potentially
new fittings, adapters, elbows, etc, etc.  Getting a fuel tank in and out of
the engine compartment is not like working on the 'work bench'.

FYI

> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Head Lube – West Marine.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 6:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

 

What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The manufacturer 
sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper alternative.  I've used 
vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the pump.  A friend uses motor 
oil but I worry about it not being compatible with the rubber parts.

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or

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Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

By 1980, they went with separate tanks. Mine is just like Chad’s, complete with 
the leak.

Gary

1980 30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

 

The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part of 
the tank. The top of the
forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round access 
ports and a screwed
down access panel on both tanks.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400 
From: Chad Osmond  > 

I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame 
treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this 
year with no issues. 

Chad 

On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > wrote: 

> If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks 
> repair within the last 4 weeks. 
> 
> If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace 
> it. 
> 
> I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
> 
> And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard. 
> 
> Marek 
> 
> 
> *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List   > 
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07 
> 
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO 
> left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into 
> my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to 
> be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you 
> typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the 
> fittings fastened to the tank. 
> 
> Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in 
> the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I 
> can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull. 
> 
> Chris Hobson 
> s/v "Going" 
> 1980 C 30 MKI 

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Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I doubt it. I have had an exhaust elbow made of black pipe on my 2QM15 for over 
20 years. When the first one rusted out, I had a new one made just like it. 
Engine runs great.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 8:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

 

 

 

I was wondering if there could be a negative impact to use a Ss elbow that may 
not have the same internal dimension and thus affecting the flow and 
performance of the engine. But I may be overthinking this...

 

Other thoughts out there or experiences to share on this matter ?

 

 

Thanks

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 

New-Richmond, Qc

 

Bruno.

Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 28 août 2017 à 20:34, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 > a écrit :

We replaced ours 2 years ago – mechanic recommended the cast iron version, and 
not to use the stainless.  Don’t remember the exact reason why but believe it 
had to do with the rusting of the cast iron was indicative an internal issue

 

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

 

 

Hi all,

 

I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F) 
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should go 
with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace with 
SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality and 
price.

 

 

Thank you very much.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 

New-Richmond, Qc

 

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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Cunningham

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Mine is different - there's a pad eye on the port side of the mast about 4 feet 
off the deck. A line is tied to that which goes through the cringle in the main 
- not the one for reefing, but one about a foot above the foot of the main. 
That line ends with a block on the starboard side of the main, just hanging 
there. There are two cheek blocks on the starboard side of the mast, about two 
feet apart and facing each other and one has a becket . (I am taking some 
liberties here because the mast is out of the boat and on a rack about 10 feet 
in the air and it is a bit tough to imagine while on a ladder). A line comes 
from the becket, up to one of the cheek blocks, back down and through the block 
on the end of the "cringle" line and then through the other cheek block and 
then to a cam cleat. There is nothing at the base of the mast for the 
Cunningham. I assume it was as delivered.

Gary
1980 #593 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2017 6:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Cunningham

Listers (especially 30-1 owners) - 

The 30-1 owners manual Table 4, “C 30 Blocks”, lists one 1750-lb single 
block, one 1750-lb single block with becket, and one 1200-lb cheek block for 
cunningham usage.  Grenadine doesn’t have the 1750-lb single blocks for her 
cunningham; just the cheek block at the starboard base of the mast, and a jam 
cleat a few feet up from there.  How was the cunningham on a 30-1 originally 
rigged, does anyone know?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Number of MKI C 30's made?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

You are close to the end of the run. A guy named Curtiss has one in the low/mid 
600’s in the Carolinas, and you and he are the only ones I have run across 
higher than 600. Kinda weird, as we know of numbers 1 and 7 and don’t seem to 
have a bunch in the 300’s to 400’s. Stu had an early one, don’t remember the 
number.

 

Gary #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike Casey 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2017 1:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Casey 
Subject: Stus-List Number of MKI C 30's made?

 

Does anyone know how many C 30 MKI's were made? I have #636...anyone have one 
after that?

 

Mike Casey

C 30 MKI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Josh, there is no way you can get into Tilghman with 6.5 foot draft unless they 
dredge either side of Knapps Narrows. Right now, it is about five feet at best 
on the west and maybe five and a half on the east. Oxford has great marinas but 
hardly any ‘real’ town. Went into Cambridge Municipal about a month ago, 
churned some mud with a 4 foot draft boat. (I pick up boats for the Chesapeake 
Bay Maritime Museum’s Donation Program, so get around to much of the Mid 
Chesapeake area). 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 4:05 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C rendezvous

 

Joe, 

 

You're absolutely right about St Michael's being a charming port with lots of 
shops and restaurants.  For that matter there are a few more charming places on 
the eastern shore which I'm perfectly willing to consider (Cambridge, Oxford, 
Tillman Island) and I'm sure more which I am simply unaware of.  I was 
concerned about excluding people by pushing too remote.  Feel free to review 
the the maps and see if there are any ports of call which I overlooked. Having 
a medium amount of amenities, things to do, and places to eat was more or less 
the consensus of the survey.  Annapolis, Solomons, and St Michael's were 
overwhelmingly suggested by the survey respondents.  State your case for your 
preferred port of call.  Bear in mind that you may also become the embassador 
since I may not be as familiar with the available services.

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yMUdWdWRha1FxMG8

 

I draft 6.5' so depth is a regular consideration for all of the discussed ports.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Dec 11, 2017 3:11 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  > wrote:

 

Water taxi service means no dinghy needed as well in Annapolis. LOTS of things 
to do ashore for the shopping inclined. When we lived on the Severn many a 
cruise got derailed by Naptown. We would pick up a mooring Friday night after 
work and instead of heading out Saturday, breakfast ashore would turn into a 
walk which went by some shops my wife liked and …still there Sunday.

Saint Michael’s would be my next pick after Annapolis. 

 

Joe

Coquina

 


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Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am using white shrinkwrap tape. It has one problem, it gets brittle and can 
crack or pull loose. I end up adding some in the middle of each season to keep 
good coverage. Not difficult, as I bought a roll which may last me forever.

 

Gary

30-1 in Maryland – maybe it is the heat

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 2:26 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

 

Hello all,

 

I was wondering if some of you may have some insights regarding mast boot tape. 
 We have had a slight leak around the base of the mast since we bought the boat 
in February.  I pulled off a mass of old tape which was peeling anyway, and 
applied Rubbaweld Mast Boot Tape with somewhat marginal success (it was my 
first attempt). In that since I was doing the job single handed, I had to start 
by taping the end of the tape to the mast with duct tape to hold it while I 
pulled it tight.  I also found it was kind of a pain to have to pull off liner 
from the tape surface simultaneously while pulling on the tape hard enough to 
activate the adhesive and get it to bind.  It was also pretty difficult to get 
a good span from the base of the mast deck entrance to the mast itself, and I 
had difficulty getting the tape to fuse into a nice tight end.  In the end, the 
stuff appears to be about the same as what came off, which looked perpetually 
dirty.  

 

I understand this is mostly an issue of user error, but It seems to me there 
must be a better solution.

 

For example, anyone ever try white shrinkwrap tape?  It would seem ideal - 
waterproof, sticks to boat hulls well, doesn't leave sticky residue, is UV 
resistant, and would stay much cleaner. 

 

Any other solutions?  

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

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Re: Stus-List Nicro-Fico 599-600 traveller parts

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I would consider replacing the whole thing with Garhauer. I am happy with a 
boat full of that stuff.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2017 1:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nicro-Fico 599-600 traveller parts

 

Back when I owned my 30mkI (hard to believe it’s over a dozen years ago…), I 
replaced the whole traveller with Ronstan.  It worked well.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Nov 1, 2017, at 11:16 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

I have a Nicro-Fico X-Track traveller on my 1979 30 mk1. The adjustable track 
stops are now virtually non-adjustable, because the spring-pin mechanism has 
corroded. I have tried to order replacements from RigRite on a number of 
occasions. They always seem to be back-ordered. I'm now wondering if that is a 
euphemism.

 

Has anyone tried using Ronstan Series 22 parts with this traveller?

 

Thanks

 

Derek Kennedy

1979 C 30 mk1- Tortuga

Ballantyne's Cove, NS

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Re: Stus-List new haylards

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I switched to all rope, got rid of the wire. No problems with the sheaves,
but keep the line diameter small, as there is little room on the forward
side of the mast between the sheave and the tab to which the forestay is
attached. I reversed the clevis pin to make more room. I tried 11mm VPC, but
it dragged on the clevis pin, so I dropped to 10mm. For cruising, Sta-Set or
Sta-Set X would work. VPC has less stretch and is about the same in price.

 

Gary

30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2017 6:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: Stus-List new haylards

 

Hi Everyone,

 

I'm looking to replace my foresail and headsail halyard on my C 30 MKI, my
foresail is a combination of wire and rope. The boat is used by new sailor
for cruising. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Cheers

 

Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB

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Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I switched from wire/rope to rope without a problem. 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

If there are rough spots on the sheaves they need to be replaced before 
switching.  Also, you need to make sure the sheave is wide enough for the rope 
you want to use.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:47 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

My jib halyard is shot. I always assumed I needed another wire/rope because the 
sheaves are made for wire and would damage an all rope halyard.

Is this wrong?

 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Neil Andersen  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

Bruce,

 

First thing is to replace the wire/rope with all rope.

 

Neil

1982 C

Rock Hall, MD

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have raced on a couple of J-80’s and now on a C All have rope – all 
have furlers, and they don’t take anything down during the season.

Don’t see a problem.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba <j...@dellabarba.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

Is rope suitable for furling sails that might not come down more than once a 
year?

 

Coquina

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net <mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

I switched from wire/rope to rope without a problem. 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com <mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

If there are rough spots on the sheaves they need to be replaced before 
switching.  Also, you need to make sure the sheave is wide enough for the rope 
you want to use.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:47 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My jib halyard is shot. I always assumed I needed another wire/rope because the 
sheaves are made for wire and would damage an all rope halyard.

Is this wrong?

 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Neil Andersen <neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com 
<mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?

 

Bruce,

 

First thing is to replace the wire/rope with all rope.

 

Neil

1982 C

Rock Hall, MD

every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C Rescue Committee finds

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The 29 (not a 30) looks pretty clean, but one would have to look at it 
carefully. Only part of the lifelines, etc. But $1500? That is a steal 
particularly with about 3000 pounds of lead sitting there.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C Rescue Committee finds

 

I hate it when boats sell for less than the scrap value of the keel :(

That 35 MK I has potential, but dealing with that 4-60 diesel in bad shape will 
be a challenge. I don’t know how many parts you can still get.

Might be easier to stick an A4 in there and more power too.

 

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 7:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Michael Brown mailto:m...@tkg.ca> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C Rescue Committee finds

 

Listed as a C 30 but it is a 29.

 

Michael Brown

Windburn

C 30-1

 

 

Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2018 21:38:13 + 
From: "Della Barba, Joe" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > 


https://easternshore.craigslist.org/boa/d/1979-cc-30/6589132460.html 

1979 C 30 - $1500 (Cape Charles, VA) hide this posting unhide 
? craigslist - Map data ? OpenStreetMap 
Marina Road 
condition: fair 
length overall (LOA): 29 
make / manufacturer: C and C 
model name / number: C and C 
propulsion type: sail 
year manufactured: 1979 
QR Code Link to This Post 
Very nice fin keel spade rudder Chesapeake Bay cruising boat. Sturdy and nice 
sailing boat. Project boat as she was neglected a while 

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Re: Stus-List C 25 II - mast step concerns

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The mast step (at least on my 30) fails slowly, as it rots and sinks into the 
bilge. Just keep track of the shroud tension and if it starts sagging, then get 
concerned – and not even then if you still have adjustment on the shrouds. You 
may get dirty water in the bilge from dripping down the mast. You said it was 
from one of the bolt holes – are you speaking of keel bolts? My mast sits on a 
large oak block and is held in place by an aluminum ‘box’ the size of the mast 
and about an inch high.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Stephen Kidd via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Kidd 
Subject: Stus-List C 25 II - mast step concerns

 

Hi all,

 

First, having found the archives for this list incredibly helpful, I wanted to 
pose a question about the mast step on my C 25 II (bought about a year ago 
somewhat impulsively, I confess). Occasionally, after prolonged rains, I'll 
find some water residue in the cabin under the mast step. It's dark brown, 
which has me concerned, and is dripping from one of the bolt holes. Not much, 
just some drops. I put some butyl around the step, which has seemed to solve 
the leak. 

 

The deck feels solid, but I'm wondering if this warrants a mast step rebuild. A 
failing mast step sounds scary. Any things I should check to diagnose? Any 
ideas on what a boatyard might charge to rebuild the mast step (rate is about 
$100 an hour)?

 

 

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Re: Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Mine is similar. When I asked about it on this forum maybe 20 years ago, I was 
advised that the water should be aimed downstream so that it would not have any 
possibility of backing up into the engine (on shutdown, maybe?). When 
replacement time came, I duplicated what I had.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steven Tattrie via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Steven Tattrie 
Subject: Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

 

Hi All,

 

The "Y" on my where the cooling water connects to the exhaust rusted out and I 
am rebuilding it. It was made out of 1 1/4 " steel water pipe. A 3/8 "  piece 
was welded onto 6" of straight pipe to make a "Y". The 3/8" piece is where the 
cooling water would travel into the 1 1/4" exhaust.

 

My question is: could this simply be a "t" shaped piece made out of 1 1/4 inch 
t with a reducer to fit the 3/8" connector for the cooling water. Rather than 
weld up a "y".

 

Steve

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’m curious. What kind of prop do you have that requires you to slow down to 
get it to open. Most folding ones ask for more speed to get the blades to open. 
Non opening would produce lots of vibration, which would get lots of noise as 
the engine bounces around on (particularly) old motor mounts. Shake the motor.

 

Gary

Flex-o-fold geared

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 8:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

 

Yea I did that today and started it up and it sounded fine. However I didn't 
put it in gear or take it out of the slip. The racor was full and I didn't see 
any water in it either.

 

Now it does vibrate pretty good under operation. I looked at the engine mounts 
though and none seemed to be cracked or anything. What should the mounts 
look/feel like?  How much vibration while running should it have? 

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 6:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:

Kevin, 

 

Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel, try it out, and get back 
to us.  Check your racor filter for air.  Low fuel/air in the line/water in the 
line can all cause rough operation.  These Yanmars have a lot of backlash in 
the engine and when you get rough operations the clutch plate springs can bang. 
 If you have a loose/broken/soft engine mount it can allow the engine to bang 
around pretty good too.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:30 PM Kevin Paxton via CnC-List  > wrote:

Hey Everyone,

 

Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past Wednesday for 
the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar 3GMF would 
occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might know what could 
have caused it.

 

When it happened:

* We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking down 
the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something didn't sound 
right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back everything 
sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die. Like it was 
running out of fuel.

* We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed us 
up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me it 
sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced power 
again and it immediately went away.

 

Conditions:

* At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.

* Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power 
boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.

* At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and I had 
to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open. 

 

Observations:

* I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation. 

* No leaking oil, fuel, or water.

* Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk in 
the bottom but not much.

* When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.

 

Thoughts/Questions:

* Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?

* Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly? If 
that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or cutlass 
bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop not opening. 

* I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally the 
undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because of 
stresses on the prop. 

 

Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started 
immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the throttle up 
and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit of a loss as to 
what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the oil and I am 
planning on changing the fuel filters as well. 

 

I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it meets 
the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that would 
indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?

 

Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

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Re: Stus-List C 35 wins 1st place

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Seven plus for the race! Wow – no spinnaker. More fun that one should be able 
to have. Good job.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2018 9:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 wins 1st place

 

Way to go, Dennis.  We tied the cylinder off but didn't try to re-tension the 
backstay.  It would have helped us point better.  Our race was 68 nm but pretty 
much a straight course.  Everyone hopes that our prevailing NW winds will mean 
a Spinnaker drag race start to finish.  This was my second Queens Cup race and 
the first was no wind to light north winds, this one was pretty strong NNE 
winds.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 6/25/2018 3:09 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

Way to go Dennis!

Hope the repair goes well.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Monday, June 25, 2018, 11:00:04 AM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
  wrote: 

 

 

Yup, interesting race.  Paul and I swapped driving duty.  Unfortunately for 
Paul, he was driving when the adjuster let loose.  I hope he can save the shirt 
he was wearing.  It soaked up a LOT of hydraulic fluid.  Pics of the repair can 
be seen here: 

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_C6No1c6s9YadL6Uwrk7lFOu83G3DWxL

 

Touche' averaged 7.7 knots for the 100 mile race.  We averaged 8.3 knots for 
the first 4 legs (60 nm).

 

It was the 70th Gulfport Pensacola Race and the fastest.  The monohull record 
fell by an hour.  The first multihull, an F25, finished in 6 hrs 44 minutes.  
It was sailed by Randy Smyth, 5 time US multihull champ and 2 time Olympic 
silver medalist.  

 

For those interested, you can replay the race here:

 

http://kws.kattack.com/GEPlayer/GMPosDisplay.aspx?FeedID=1723

 

It was a 9.5 nm shallow beat from the start off Gulfport to round a mark off 
Ship Island (one of the Gulf Coast barrier islands) followed by an 8 nm close 
reach to the Gulfport sea buoy.  After the sea buoy, we loosened up to a 
beam/broad reach for the 42 nm leg to the Mobile sea buoy.  We passed the 
Mobile Sea buoy before sunset.  We've NEVER come close to that previously.  

 

After Mobile we turned down even more but couldn't hold the rhumb line without 
collapsing the genoa.  We were back close enough to shore where we could look 
at the tracking data and saw we had a nice cushion on the second place boat so 
we opted to sail gybe angles instead of putting up a pole for wing on wing.  
The seas were fairly substantial, the boat was pretty squirrely and I didn't 
want to send anyone to the foredeck to set the pole (especially since that 
person was me).  I hate wing on wing!  We probably lost 10 minutes or so but 
safety rules!

 

We finished 23rd out of 34 boats including the spinnaker class.  We might have 
given up a half dozen spots by not going wing on wing.

 

On the 3rd leg between the island and the Gulfport sea buoy, we passed a 
McGregor 25 sailed by Benz Faget , a local North sailmaker and national class 
sailor (he started 10 minutes ahead of us).  Soon after we rounded the sea 
buoy, Benz passed us with a chute up.  We didn't see any other boats set a 
chute.  He won overall, beating a couple of Melges 32's corrected.  Who'd a 
thunk it?  A McGregor 25.

 

We watched a Beneteau 45 ahead of us throw up a chute.  It immediately exploded.

 

As it turned out, it was probably good we didn't set the pole because we furled 
the genoa immediately after the adjuster blew up to take load off the backstay 
while we stabilized the rig.

 

Winds were 18-22 and seas 3-6 feet for the entire race.

 

As for the backstay adjuster, as soon as I finish mowing the lawn, I'm taking 
it to a local hydraulic shop for them to look at it.  If they don't want to 
take a shot at it, I'll send it to Lew Townsend in Seattle.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 9:32 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This past weekend was the Gulfport to Pensacola Race, a 100 NM offshore 
sailboat race.  Active list member Dennis C sailed Touche’, a C 35 mk1, over 
100 NM in under 13 hrs to win 1st place in his class. 

 

 What makes this even more spectacular is the fact that at 40 NM before the 
finish, Touche’ suffered a total failure of the back stay adjuster.  Dennis 
quickly kludged a temporary fix using a couple blocks and lines led to aft 
winches.

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/  

 


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Could that ‘attachment’ be the engine fuel filter? You said ‘primary’ filter, 
is that the first one on the tank side? Mine has a big plastic Racor about a 
foot from the tank and then it is routed to a fuel pump mounted on the engine 
then to a small filter near the top of the engine, then to the high pressure 
pump and to the injectors. Make sense?

 

Gary

2QM15

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2018 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

 

Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the tank 
to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon my 
ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that seems 
to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It seems 
to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together or do I 
need to take the mixing elbow off?

Yanmar 2gmf.

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My whale bilge pump exits about two feet forward of the transom on the port
side, just under the toe rail. I ran my electric version to the same place,
just underneath the manual one.

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A.
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 12:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

 

Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge
pump connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting
the head back together and will need that vent, but I can't figure out where
the bilge pump would connected to a thruhull.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List West Marine is So Funny

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Real Sailors!

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2017 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List West Marine is So Funny

 

To take advantage of West Marine’s 50% off sale on yacht braid, I asked for a 
new set of spinnaker sheets for Christmas.  Gave my family the exact specs, 
links to the web page, etc.  Here it is verbatim from an email on 11/24/17:

 

I would like to get some new spinnaker sheets for Grenadine.

 

West Marine is having a 50% off sale on yacht braid through Monday: 
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/new-england-ropes--solid-color-sta-set-polyester-yacht-braid--P002_071_001_004

 

Here are the specifications of what I would like:

* 60 feet of 3/8”, solid green

* 60 feet of 3/8”, solid red

 

At the sale price of $0.79 per foot, that’s $47 per sheet.

 

You can order online from West Marine’s website, and ship for free to the local 
West Marine store for pickup.

 

So, I open the gift on Christmas morning, and my daughters have to explain to 
me that West Marine sent all 60 feet of the green line, but only 14 feet of the 
red line.  They’ll ship the remaining 46 feet of the red line separately, 
according to their shipping statement :)  Lol.

 

Happy New Year,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

That’s the one I got. Works great! And I didn’t get to choose where the third 
fastener goes. Good deal.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 7:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

 



  

 



Sunbrella lifesling covers


Any color, fits over existing bag to match your existing canvas.




 

 DETAILS

 

 

 



 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 5, 2018, at 6:53 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  > wrote:

Buy sunbrella and then make a bag. easy to do.

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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast Step

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Agree with Randy in all comments except one. If your mast deposits as much 
water as mine into the bilge, having a pump down at the bottom is necessary, 
but….there is often other junk that gets down there as well and that means you 
need to get under the step to clean out the pump screen. If you take your mast 
out often, then that is not a problem. I would recommend a self-priming pump 
with a hose down there instead. I am in the same position and will be making 
that install as well as (once again) repairing or replacing the supports.

 

Gary Nylander #593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2018 12:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford ; Collin Ferguson 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast Step

 

Hi Collin, responses inline.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

On Jan 18, 2018, at 8:49 PM, Collin Ferguson via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

 

My mast step stringers were in very bad shape and the mast plate was dropping 
into the bilge so I'm replacing the step this winter. I have a few questions...

 

1). Terminology wise, are the lateral plywood supports considered the mast step 
or stringers?  Or is the heavy cast iron plate that sits on top of them called 
the mast step?

 

My understanding of the terminology is that the lateral plywood pieces are 
called the mast step supports.  In my boat (C 30 MK I hull #7, built 
September 1972) what sits on top of the supports is an oak block about 2” 
thick, 8” wide, and 16” long.  That is the mast step.  Mounted on top of the 
mast step is an aluminum box that the mast sits in, i.e. the mast box.





2). I've read the very helpful documents about others who have taken on this 
task.  They have used GPO-3 or other non wood materials.  I would like to use 
epoxy coated hardwood because I'm much more comfortable shaping the wood to fit 
in.  If it lasts 20 years I'll be more that happy.  The original plywood lasted 
40 so I would think it should.  My question is, what type of wood?  I was 
thinking White oak or Mahogany.

 

I’d think you’d want something super hard.  See 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test.  I considered Ipe and Cumaru 
for new cabintop handrails for Grenadine, but went with traditional teak in the 
end.  Both Ipe and Cumaru are very hard woods, oily which is good for water 
repellency, and less expensive than teak.  But caveat emptor, I’m not expert on 
woods and woodworking.





3). How important is it that the 3 new pieces go all the way to the keel?  Of 
the 3 current supports only the forward most support went all the way to the 
base of the bilge, the other two had enough space between them and the bottom 
of the bilge to pass a large diameter bilge hose through.  I'm not sure if that 
was original or if one of the PO's modified them to run the hose.  There were 
many failed repairs to the original structure.

 

I believe the design intent was for the weight and compressive load of the mast 
to be borne by the bilge shoulders, not by the top of the keel stub.  Therefore 
I don’t think it’s super-important for the new supports to rest on the top of 
the keel stub.  Grenadine’s original supports had little contact with the top 
of the keel stub, and her new supports have none.  And it’s important to leave 
space below the supports for water to come forward to that lowest sump under 
the mast step (and for bilge plumbing to pass through).  There’s a term for 
that space, drain holes effectively, but I forget the term.



 

4). I'm thinking about putting an automatic bilge pump in between the pieces 
under the mast.  The current setup only had a hose running in there to a manual 
whale pump.  Is it a good idea to put a small automatic pump in there?  

 

Yeah I put an 1100gph Rule in there on my boat.  Described in 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM





Thanks,

 

Collin

1974 C 30 MK1

Libra

Baltimore

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Re: Stus-List New lines and hayalards

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have the same boat - with spinnaker gear. I put three line locks on each
side of the companionway (over where the panel is on the inside) to handle
the lines I ran back.

 

I left the outhaul on the boom and the Cunningham on the mast.

 

On the port side, I have (outside in) the spinnaker halyard, two genoa
halyards, and the Garhauer solid vang (fourth lock). The Spin halyard is
11mm VPC in solid green with a little red fleck.

The two genoa halyards are both white, one has red and blue flecks and other
green. Both should be 10mm VPC, but one is old and probably Sta-Set X. The
vang is all white (non high tech something maybe 8mm)

 

On the starboard side (outside in) is black Sta-Set 3/8 for the pole
downhaul.

Next in is Blue 3/8 Sta-Set for pole lift.

Most inside is 3/8 T-900 (old stuff) for the main halyard. Rather stiff, but
still works. It is white with a fleck (can't remember it is off the boat
right now under snow?)

 

I would think about putting the most used Genoa halyard on the starboard
side because one person could be handling the genoa while someone else could
be on the spinnaker - lots of elbows in a small area.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 6:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: Stus-List New lines and hayalards

 

Hello everyone,

 

I'm thinking of replacing all of the sheets and halyards on Invictus, hoping
for some insight. 

 

Dennis of Touche posted a note about color designation that I thought was
interesting but I forgot to copy it.

 

Looking for recommendations of size type and color of lines and halyards for
a cruising sailboat that may enter a fun club race once in a while.

 

Thanks for any help,

 

Cheers.

 

Tom Power

Invictus

C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB

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Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous - Just a Thought

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Unlikely that Ravens play would effect Annapolis. Baltimore has tons of
space. It would just be the 'regular ' Annapolis tourists, of which there
are plenty.

 

Gary

Across the Bay

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly
petew via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 5:39 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous - Just a Thought

 

Listers,

just a thought, but Annapolis can be a busy place in the fall, even after
the boat shows.  It looks like that weekend's Navy football game is away, so
this is good news for those attending by land.  However, I don't know about
the Ravens, nor how their home games may affect the availability of
Annapolis accommodations.  

 

Perhaps, someone more familiar with the area can provide guidance.  Hope
this helps.

 

Fair Winds,

 

Pete W.

Siren Song

C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List mystery item

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

That is a bit of an antique. Your boat probably came from the factory with 
roller reefing for the main. The boom was hooked to the mast at one point and 
there was a crank to wind the boom – thus rolling the sail around it. That 
roller gizmo was wrapped around the boom and hooked to the topping lift so the 
boom could rotate freely. If your boom is original, it probably has a single 
bolt in the aft end and a flat piece of stainless where the main sheet attached.

 

The first ‘big’ boat I sailed on back in the day had one.

 

Gary

1980 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steve Staten via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item

 

OK, I’m just GUESSING but you have it upside down. It slides on a pipe and is 
used to hang your drink off the little clevis. The four nylon wheels will allow 
the drink to stay steady as the boat rocks. Did I win a prize?

 

Steve Staten

C’Est La Vie

C 26

Langley, OK USA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T Smyth via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 2:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: T Smyth
Subject:  Stus-List mystery item

 

 

I’m trying to determine the use of an item I found on a recently purchased 1974 
C 30.

 

It’s probably obvious but I just can’t quite identify it.

See photo at

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bUs1Qcb3DdsuaFz89

 

 

Tks

Tom

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing it.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The factory one I have in my basement says 13.5 x 9. And it is on a 7/8 inch 
shaft. Replaced with a 14 x 9 Flex-o-fold.

Gary (1980 30-1)

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jeremy Cox via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 6:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Cox 
Subject: Stus-List Lost my prop on 1978 C 30 mark 1, need some help replacing 
it.

 

Hi, I have a 2QM15 Yanmar and the prop came off when I hit a log yesterday.

 

Can anyone tell me what prop diameter I should be looking for as well as the 
pitch and shaft size?

 

or where I could find that info?

 

thanks

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Re: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I could not make that fit - how did you bend the input tube?

Gary

'80

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 4:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Aaron Rouhi ; Steve Guiney

Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

 

Years back, I replaced the aluminum tank on my 30-1 with this one from
Moeller Marine. It was a perfect fit:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MT95C8/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

 

Cheers,

Aaron

Admiral Maggie

79' 30-1 

Annapolis, MD

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Steve Guiney via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Steve Guiney
Subject: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank 

 

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?

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Re: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I found that one – by the time you placed it over the Moeller vertical molded 
in tube, there was not enough room – maybe my shelf is a bit higher than his? 

 

Beats me, but I’m done.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 5, 2018 3:05 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

 

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-1-2-id-38mm-90-degree-super-fuel-filler-elbow-1.50/

 

Dennis C.

 

On Wed, Sep 5, 2018 at 1:41 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I could not make that fit – how did you bend the input tube?

Gary

 

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Re: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have replaced my tank. A problem in the original one, being made of aluminum 
and sitting on a piece of plywood, is that it (over 36 years) will develop pin 
holes and leak. Then you get to pump diesel out of your bilge.

A second problem is the original has a elbow welded in the top which allows the 
input hose to exit sideways on the starboard side. I could not find a tank 
which would fit on the shelf which did not have a vertical input – and thus not 
allow the (very not flexible) input hose to turn down in time. I went to a 
smaller Moeller tank (11 gallons) instead of the original 19. Others have 
drilled a fill hole in the cockpit floor and put the filler in straight.

 

The Moeller tank I have was about $175 or so as opposed to some others which 
didn’t appear to fit any better for $400 or more. You can get a bunch of other 
tanks by Googling Moeller and/or chasing down some other manufacturers.

 

Or…. Take your tank out and find an aluminum welder and have a new bottom 
welded on (may be the best overall solution). The rest of the tank was fine, 
just the bottom was perforated.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steve Guiney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Guiney 
Subject: Stus-List C 30' mk1 replacement fuel tank

 

Hello I'm wondering if anyone replaced their original fuel tank and know the 
dimensions of have a Moeller part number?

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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mk1 - Issue at top of mast when Furling

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version doesn’t. Must be for a roller furler.

Gary #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tortuga via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 12:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tortuga 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 Mk1 - Issue at top of mast when Furling

 

My 1979 30mk1 has a fairlead at the masthead to restrain the Genoa halyard.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vvz8yamif0w20j0/Masthead%2003.JPG?dl=0

 

Derek Kennedy

S.V. Tortuga, C 30 mk1 #553 

Ballantynes Cove N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Engine mounts

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Twenty five year old mounts have hardened with wear. If one has hardened so 
much it is rigid, then you should consider replacing them all, because the rest 
are not far behind. I replaced mine last year and the boat is better for it.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 1:37 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine mounts

 

Seized?  How so?

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 12:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

One of my engine mounts on my Yanmar 3HM35F is hopelessly seized.As they 
are over 25 years old anyway, I’m wondering if I should just replace the one 
that’s messed up or all 4.

 

Do these things go have an effective life?  

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 

 

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Re: Stus-List water level

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Amen, the docks are under water in St. Michaels as well. It's amazing that
the wind (plenty of wind) can blow that much water out of the Bay. And then
watch it come back in.

 

Gary

15 miles south

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 7, 2018 10:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List water level

 

We went from a couple of days where the lifelines were lower than the pier
to the pier being underwater now!

 

Joe

Coquina

 

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Re: Stus-List Mast step Stringers

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am just finishing the rebuild of the mast step on my 30-1. It was not high 
tech at all like the later boats, using cross-wise stringers made of plywood 
which had fiberglass on the top and sides but not on the bottom where the water 
gathers. After 36 years and a couple of repairs, they were soggy! Deciding that 
letting water sit in the deep part of the sump, where only a small bilge pump 
would fit and when clogged up with some gunk or pieces of delaminating plywood, 
would fail, requiring the removal of the mast to replace, I dumped three quarts 
of West epoxy down there to create a small slope from front to rear and get the 
water back into the area where an installed bilge pump is accessible. I did it 
in stages with slow hardener, which avoided the heat problem and then covered 
it with a layer of cloth/mat. Three new stringers, each made of two sandwiched 
¾ inch UHMW (almost as hard as the red stuff, but easier to machine) now sit on 
top of that new sloped area to keep it dry. I put a piece of 2” PVC pipe around 
the one keel bolt to allow access. I hope it will outlive the rest of the boat. 

 

Gary Nylander 30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step Stringers

 

" Any thoughts on injecting epoxy? "

 

It will take a lot of epoxy if the floors are mostly hollow.  And beware of 
heat if a large amount of epoxy is curing in an enclosed space.  Perhaps the 
slowest possible hardener in the mix?

 

I am not an expert...

 

Ken H.

 

 

On 11 April 2018 at 10:48, Brian Fry via CnC-List  > wrote:

Thank you Ken.. Very helpful. I will take another look. I do have an access 
hole drilled thru one of the stringers to be able to torque one of the bolts, 
If I recall it is not hollow. There are also bilge drain holes from bay to bay, 
again they are not hollow.

 

I agree the drawings show no material inside, but then what would the mast step 
plate be screwed to? 

 

My concern is that they are bulging. 

I take it yours don't have the bulging issue?

 

Any thoughts on injecting epoxy?

Thanks again.

 


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2018 06:27:52 -0300
From: Ken Heaton  >
To: cnc-list  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step stringers
Message-ID:
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hello Brian,

I would be very surprised to find there was any wood inside the 'stringers'
on a C 37/40.  There is no mention of wood used in any part of this
boat's construction anywhere (except in the sole, in bulkheads and
cabinetry) in any documents I have see for these hulls.

I was sure the `stringers` were either completely hollow or there was
perhaps foam inside, but only to hold their shape while they are tabbbed to
the hull on initial construction.  One `stringer` just aft of the two that
support the mast step, has a large hole drilled in the top to access a keel
bolt.  It is completely hollow.


Here is a link to the construction drawing for that hull:

Here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKYTJxRDJBc3BvLWM/ 
 
view?usp=sharing

and here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKcDd4ZlhWNGZzdmM/ 
 
view?usp=sharing

Ken H.



On 10 April 2018 at 22:37, Brian Fry via CnC-List  >
wrote:

> 1993 37/40.
> Redoing the rod rigging, mast is down. Removed the aluminum mast step to
> media blast and powder coat.
> There are three `stringers` the mast step sits on. The forward and aft
> stringers,which the step is bolted to, are bulging. Tapping on them reveals
> a delamination inside.
> I am thinking this is caused by forces from the adjustable mast crushing
> the laminate wood inside. The bay this is in is too high to be caused by
> water intrusion.
> Anyone else experiencing this?
> The plan is to drill holes and inject epoxy, then bolt on a suupport piece
> of 1/2" aluminum across the face, bolted into the solid parts of the
> stringer.
> Any input is welcome.
>
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40 XL
> Havre de Grace , MD
> FB blog : thenext14years
> Brian and Manon
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML 

Re: Stus-List Wax

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I noticed on the Poliglow site that they have a new stripper which appears
to be more powerful than Poli-prep. If I would have had more time this year,
I would have tried it on my transom. I did use some floor stripper which
helped, but something more suited to Poli would be nice. But, sailing calls.
Mast up today or tomorrow, whenever the spreader boots arrive.

 

Gary

Eastern Shore of Maryland

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

 

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being
recommended for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat,
and when I bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of
compliments on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the
boat really needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important,
so putting that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping
to be that far in front of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job
as DIY and expensive as professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle
transom is really in bad shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably
because it gets more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it
still looks pretty bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on
the Awlgrip to make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried
Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing
else to do at this point, but awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
 > wrote:

 

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
colored surface. It was difficult to remove. 

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland, Or

 

 

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Re: Stus-List CnC List problems...

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Bahamas! No more messages from me as I am preparing to shovel….

 

Gary

Maryland

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 2:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Stus-List CnC List problems...

 

Hello List:

 

Per Stu’s suggestion I am starting a new thread to try and research an issue I 
ma having with not receiving emails from the list.  I received a response to 
the C Mid-Atlantic Rendezvous but I never received the original message.  I 
would like to ask a coupld listers to respond back to me to see if I get emails 
OK.  Thanks a lot!

 

Bob

s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38

(Currently in the Bahamas)

blog: dainyrays.blogspost.com   

 

 

On Mar 16, 2018, at 1:01 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

Josh,

 

We’ll be in Annapolis the preceding weekend for my Boat School 50th and will 
miss the C Rendezvous.   If people are looking for a place to stay on dry 
land, I’d suggest looking at Air B  Even with our “special” reunion rate for 
hotels were very expensive.  

 

Several of us are staying at  

 
https://www.expedia.com/Annapolis-Hotels-Renovated-Historic-Home-Located-Downtown-Walk-Everywhere.h18992901.Hotel-Information?adults=2=0=10%2F26%2F2018=10%2F28%2F2018=6034082=dea885d8-f9f8-45ea-9058-33f68560c3a0HWRQ1508334523920=false&=undefined_dp=365.67_ts=1508334618050_curr=USD_pg=HSR===1521219359274
  There are other choices.

 

Hopefully some listers might find this useful,

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:25 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C 
Rendezvous

 

Hey folks, 

 

This is a friendly reminder for the rendezvous deadline to register with the 
Annapolis Harbor master (Beth) for a slip.  She asked that we get as many 
registrations in by March 31st as possible.  It was brought to my attention 
that moorings cannot be reserved. When I checked with Beth, she confirmed that 
moorings are exclusively first come first served but also said that finding a 
mooring shouldn't be a problem at that time of year.

 

Still looking for anyone interested in arranging extracurricular activities.  
Food, walking tours, swag, etc.

 

  
http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38, Hull #230

 

411 Walnut Street #11447

Green Cove Springs, FL 32043

(443) 994-1802

 

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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I built new covers from stainless.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Christian Planton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 3:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton 
Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

 




I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with 
something else than putting caulking around the base?

 

Christian

Peer Gynt II

C 34 1980

Saugatuck, CT

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org  .

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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

24 years and counting.

Gary 30-1 #593 – 1980 vintage

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jack Fitzgerald via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 8:51 AM
To: C 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

 

Hello Al,

 

I have a question for the list.

 

How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or longer.

 

FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the second 
owners.

 




Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald, 

HONEY - US12788

1974 C 39 TM

Savannah, GA 31410 USA

 

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you

 

 

 

On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Question for Rob:

At the time, was the fact that C seem to be owned far longer than most boats 
ever discussed ? Was this considered a good or bad thing?

We have owned Coquina since 1977 and she is – knock on FRP – on track to be 
sailed by the third generation. I have sailed her since I was 12.

I recall a frustrated C broker telling me “No one trades up. Catalina owners 
buy boats every 5 years and you all keep them for decades!”

 

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

BTW – thread creep – Having a C 35 in the early or mid 70s was like having a 
Ferrari when everyone else had a golf cart. We bought one because someone else 
had one on the river and that boat passed the rest of us like we were aground :)

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Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may 
get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the 
bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. 

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will 
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue 
(95% certain)... 

That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business 
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...

 

WISH ME LUCK!

 

Dan

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

What Ed says. 

 

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 

 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dan

 

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat 
in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. 
If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning 
the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

 

Ed Levert

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks guys.

Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's 
no current lol.

I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get 
the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin 
the wheel manually...

 

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can 
analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on 
the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't 
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a 
"0.0.0"?

 

Dan

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover the 
nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.

 

From: Edward Levert via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Edward Levert   

Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

 

Dan

 

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer 
for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was 
clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the 
build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. 
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.

 

Ed Levert

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

 

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to 
get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with 
the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going 
wrong?

 

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one 
that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.

 

With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and 
the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)

 

I've got:

GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)

Black, and Shield to Ground IN

Red to Speed Voltage IN

Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN

Brown to nothing

 

With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. 
Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get 
speed sentences?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

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  _  


___

Thanks 

Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Look at the selection from Garhauer. Great stuff at an attractive price. 

Gary

30-1 with a boatload of their stuff

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chris Graham via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 9:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

 

I need to first replace the main traveler system. Any suggestions with a system 
that won’t break the bank?

 

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:43 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Roller furler - Profurl

sam 


On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Gotcha! 

 

Roller furling or hank on Sam?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Chris,

 

I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”

 

I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate 
Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main 
would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff.

sam


On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Chris,

 

When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After 
a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later 
I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.

Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the 
laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was 
doing it again.

I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. 

Best upgrades:

New sails

Folding prop

Self tailers 

(The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails)

sam 

C 26  Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 


On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thank you Sam!

 

This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the 
exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap 
(don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy 
that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.

 

Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for.

 

Chris

 

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

I have a 1977 C 26.

I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.

The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!

Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.

That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.

The 26 is a tender boat!

She does move quite well in light air.

I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.

I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.

I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.

She is a roomy boat which is nice!

I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.

I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..

I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.

She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.

Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!

Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.

I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam 

C$C 26  Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Take it out and take it apart. Mine, like Dave’s was corroded so badly that 
replacement was the only answer.

 

Gary

1980 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chris Graham via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 5:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

 

Thanks Dave, any idea if the stock pump is repairable? I’m fine with it if it is


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018, 5:16 PM, Dave. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have had to replace my manual whale gusher pumps twice over the years. My 
problem was not the diaphragm but the metal itself. I can’t remember for sure 
but I think the housing is aluminum but in any case the salt water erodes the 
metal and the seals no longer seal. Only way to tell is to disassemble the pump.

Good luck.

Dave.

SLY 1975 C 33

 

Sent from my iPad


On Oct 17, 2018, at 1:53 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

 

Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The other help for the Whale is to use it! I found after many years of non-use 
(I use the small electric pump to empty the bilge) the pump and diaphragms had 
dried out. Replaced it and use it every few weeks, just to keep everything 
flexible inside. Can’t give you a long-term success story because the pump is 
only a few years old.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 9:12 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

 

Finding a plastic pump with matching bolt pattern is the challenge.  I think 
there are a few.  There's also the issue of freeze protecting a plastic pump 
which may or may not be an issue.

 

Yes, they are expensive but a Whale Gusher may just save you and your boat.

 

BTW, I routinely flush my Gusher with dock water and leave it with dock water 
in it as opposed to leaving salt or brackish water in it for long periods.

 

Dennis C. 

 

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water. 

 

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded.

 

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all the 
alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

 

Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

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Re: Stus-List Annapolis-Mid Atlantic Rendezvous Next Year

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We also have a Classic Car Museum. We could have the event on the weekend of 
Oysterfest (which is when it was this year – the reason I couldn’t attend as I 
was busy there). We also have a microbrewery, two winery tasting rooms and a 
bunch of shops. 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Annapolis-Mid Atlantic Rendezvous Next Year

 

If we do Saint Michael’s next year we will have the Maritime Museum to explore 
and a distillery in town to explore 2 or 3 times :)

http://lyondistilling.com/

 

http://cbmm.org/

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Interior varnish issues

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Don’t use steel wool, brass wool instead – no rusting.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 1:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Interior varnish issues

 

The interior of Persistence has a lot of varnished teak and the finish has 
generally held up very well in the 31 years since it was applied in 1987.  
However we are beginning to notice a few spots that may or may not have been 
due to water damage at a some point

 

In one location there is a black stain in the wood under the varnish.  I have 
sanded the surface finish away and the black goes into the wood some.  This is 
a marine ply teak section so is likely a thin veneer so sanding through this 
surface stain is not really an option.  I am thinking of using something like 
mineral spirits and have read also that toothpaste and baking soda scrubbed 
with a toothbrush may help.  This stain is obviously from past water intrusion. 
 The varnish looked good but the stain was on underlying teak.

 

A second issue we are noting in several areas is a chalky yellowing of the 
varnish in small patchy sections.  Am suspecting this may also be due to water 
damage and it appears to be a discoloration of the varnish more than the 
underlying teak veneer.  Initial light sanding removed a lot of this but after 
applying a thinned coat of varnish it is apparent that more prep work is or was 
needed.  Have been considering continued light sanding, also perhaps paint 
thinner and fine steel wool or even the above mentioned toothpaste and baking 
soda scrub.  What is the collective wisdom on the cause of this type of varnish 
failure (water?) and the best way to get to bare wood without damaging the 
underlying thin veneer?

 

Although  this is a Carol Marine built boat rather than built by C I am 
confident many on this list have encountered these issues and come up with 
excellent ideas for the best results

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS

 

… and for the C connection …

Former family boats

1974 Paceship P23 (C designed)

1981 C 36

1979 Niagara 26 (Hinterhoeller designed and built)

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Re: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

You may also want to check out small fountain pumps. I bought one at Lowe’s. I 
use it to pump out a low spot on my walk way where water somehow finds its way 
into the basement. Time to dig up the concrete, but this is a good interim.

 

Gary

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 8, 2018 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

 

I just ordered these, but there are dozens to pick from.  Most are kind of big 
for pumping a few quarts of water.

 

 

 
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Wave-Dredger-Ground-Winter/dp/B00FWOHJFS?SubscriptionId=AKIAJ2WSQIQLDL22FHMA=swimunive-20=xm2=2025=165953=B00FWOHJFS

 

 

 

 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENTUEGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8=1

 

neither have particularly good reviews, and look cheap, but they looks small 
enough to fit, and low enough to get most of the water.

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2018 2:28 PM
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

 

Bill, can you send a link or the name of the pump? Thanks

 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

 

Richard N. Bush

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bill Coleman <  colt...@verizon.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 8, 2018 2:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

Has anyone ever used one of these to suck out that last ¼” of water from the 
bilge?

I am thinking specifically of removing Mast Water from the bilge during the 
winter,  Altho it might be handy  during the season. My bilge now has a rule 
1500 which works fine as long as you have at least 3” of water.

 

I ordered a couple cheapies, but wondered if anyone has actually gone through 
this drill and has had success.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

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Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Penniless is 1980 and hull #593

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

 

Wild Cheri was built in 4/73 and is hull number 166.

Ron

STL

 

 

  _  

From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  " 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Cc: Nate Flesness mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

 

Sarah Jean (1980 30-1) is hull number 602.

 

Nate

 

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Went from leaky aluminum to slightly smaller Moeller plastic. I’m pleased.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edward Levert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Richard:

 

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

 

Ed Levert 

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I got mine from an outfit in New Jersey. Cheaper than Amazon, but I had to pay 
shipping. Ended up about the same. Keep the little guys in business.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: colt...@verizon.net   mailto:colt...@verizon.net> >
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA

  _  


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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I 
replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open the hatch and 
set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got better performance in 
forward and much better in reverse.

 

They were great to work with and gave accurate advice about diameter and pitch.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 2:26 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

 

Consider J-prop and max-prop.  I have a 3 blade max-prop and it works as good 
in forward as it does in reverse.  No complaints.  The only real disadvantage 
is that it is a feathering prop... So underwater obstructions may not slide off 
like they can on a folder like a gori.  Initial cost seems high and refurbish 
costs seem about the same as the cost for new j-prop.  IIRC, Ken Heaton has a 
j-prop and as I recall I found myself envious of his setup.

 

The max-prop does have the ability to adjust the pitch which means fine tuning 
and matching to many different boats and engines is possible.  The setup on the 
max prop is a bit more time consuming, messy, and (on the old versions) 
impossible to do by a diver underwater.  I think one of the other manufacturers 
has a more automatic and less involved setup.

 

I would suggest that you ensure any folding prop options be geared.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

On Nov 6, 2018 12:45 PM, "Wade Glew via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a 
folding propeller?

 

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM

Gear Ratio is 2, 62

current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

 

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller 
for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

 

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

 

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)

I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

 

I would appreciate any opinions

 

Wade

Oh Boy 33 MK II

 

 

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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I volunteer for one such organization. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum 
accepts donated boats all year. We sell some via our advertising. We hold a 
huge auction each Labor Day. This year there were about 125 boats. What a donor 
gets is: we take immediate possession of the boat, move it to our location 
(that’s where I come in) and when we sell it, you get a donation document for 
what we got. You cannot just ‘guess’ at the value, to be legal, it has to be 
what it actually moves for.

 

I’ll come over to the western shore and sail/motor it over here – have done it 
many times.

 

Gary Nylander

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

 

If it’s an IRS-qualified 501(c)(3), yes.  There are organizations out there 
that are set up to accept donated boats and cars specifically for tax deduction 
purposes.  They sell them for whatever they can get and use the proceeds for 
charitable purposes.  I would think you could donate this boat for about a 
$7,500 – $10,000 tax donation, depending on the condition.  On the other hand, 
some people prefer the cash. 

 

From: Steve Staten via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:59 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Steve Staten   

Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

 

So…wouldn’t the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?

 

Steve Staten

C’Est La Vie, 26

Langley, OK 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Years ago, while returning some distance from a regatta, my engine decided
to stop. I started it up and found it would run at about 1/2 throttle.
Motored that way for 45 miles. Took the Racor primary fuel filter apart and
I was shocked that any fuel could have gone through at all! Solid black.

Replace the filters, both primary and secondary. Try again.
Gary
30-1


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C 30 MKII?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Most 30-1’s are ‘regular’ draft and 174 across the country. Happy with my first 
‘big’ boat for 24 years now, and lots of hardware. Easy to cruise with two.

Gary

30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C 30 MKII?

 

Hi Doug

 

US Sailing shows Chesapeake reporting C 30-2 at 150 and C 30-2 WK at 162.  
That is from the 2016 book.  It also shows C 30-1 SD at 180

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Ellmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Doug Ellmore
Subject: Stus-List Anyone racing C 30 MKII?

 

I am thinking of moving up from racing my C 24.  The 30 MKII has many 
features I am wanting in the next racer cruiser.

 

I wonder how the wing keel performs.  Chesapeake PHRF rating is 180 vs 150 for 
standard keel.

 

I have won a few ragattas the last year with the 24, but ready for a boat to 
also cruise some with the wife.

 

Cheers,

 

Doug

s/v Red Sky

1976 C 24

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Re: Stus-List 1978 C 26

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Try a 30-1. I have no idea what your budget is, but it appears what some are 
suggesting is in a different dollar area than the 26 you were considering.

 

The 30-1 has space, is the stiffest they ever built and can be equipped with 
enough amenities for cruising. The Vee berth can handle two adults, where many 
other similar boats require that one of them does not have legs. Mine has 
pressure water (hot if I reinstall the heater), a usable shower, a very large 
ice box which could be refrigerated, and lots of storage.

 

I looked at things like the Catalina and found that every inch of space was 
used and I could not figure out where you stored extra sails, fenders, and 
such. The 30 has huge lazarettes for that kind of stuff. 

 

Just a thought.

Gary Nylander

30-1 #593 - 1980

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1978 C 26

 

Hi Jeremy,

 

Thanks for the info. I see that you're not far from me, so maybe we'll see you 
on the water some day. The more I look, the more I am leaning toward at least a 
30', as I want a boat I can keep for a while and get to know. I tend to keep 
vehicles a long time (20+ years) and do all the work myself, so I will treat a 
boat the same way. Therefore it doesn't make sense to buy a boat knowing that I 
will want to upgrade in a few years. So far, the only boats I've had a chance 
to inspect in person are: C 26, San Juan 28, Macgregor 26X, Aloha 8.2. I 
really would like to get aboard a 30, 32, 34, etc. to get a feel for the 
differences first hand.

I had a great talk with the owner of a beautifully redone Aloha (with custom 
electric saildrive) at Maple Bay YC yesterday; he was very knowledgable about 
C and told me about all of the various boats in the YC - 25, 27, 32 mainly, 
which I had a look at. There is a 32 which hasn't moved all summer that I might 
try to contact the owners of. My parents are members at MBYC, so they've been 
keeping an eye out for me. I also spoke with the owner of a very nice Contessa 
32, but he didn't invite me aboard. His opinion of the C 26 and San Juan 28 
(across from his boat) was that the SJ was a heavier built boat, and the specs 
do seem to bear this out. The SJ has a very high 50% ballast ratio, so should 
be a much stiffer rig. 

 

One advantage for keeping it at 30' or less is this is about the longest I can 
fit in my driveway and still have access to my garage for the car. (I refuse to 
leave my vehicles outside in the winter...). I envision that at some point, I 
will want to haul the boat home and spend several months or more doing work on 
it, and don't want to pay storage costs at a yard, plus the time wasted driving 
to/from. 

 

 

 

On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 1:27 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Sean,

 

Based on what you’ve said I think you would quickly find the 26 too small for 
the week(s) of cruising needed to venture up and about Desolation sound.  

 

Something else to consider is if the old boat has had it’s rod rigging re-done. 
 That can cost more than the used boat (did for my C 34) and rigging beyond 
it’s lifespan is a serious safety concern.   The reality of owning a boat is 
that the moorage cost so much and that all the extras on a boat are generally 
not fully valued into the sale price that if I were buying a boat today I would 
spend a lot more to get one that had been extremely well cared for, maintained, 
and has all the added bells and whistles (windlass, beefy ground tackle, 
re-powered engine, refrigeration, Bimini/Dodger/enclosure, nice sails, nice 
cushions, good autopilot, electronics, battery setup, ...) 

 

We bought a C 34 without having ever owned a keelboat.  It’s just right for 
our family of 4 (kids 8 and 5).  At first it seems big but one quickly adapts.  
I would not want it any smaller and we will eventually upsize.  I thought I saw 
a C 35 for sale in Vic not to long ago.  Those are nice boats that are well 
suited for all around Van Isle.  

 

Cheers,

 

  Jeremy

  C #41

  Comox BC


-- Forwarded message --
From: Shawn Wright <  shawngwri...@gmail.com>
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2018 12:22:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1978 C 26'

Interested in this thread, as there are two 26s in my area, and not a lot else 
in the price range. I'm near Victoria, BC, and one is $9900, the other $7800. 
I've been on the first one, and the broker told me an offer of $8k would take 
it. Nice shape, but the owner installed a diesel heater down low on the 
bulkhead, removing the table, instead of mounting above table height like most 
others do. I suppose I could move it, but there was no sign of the original 
table and the hole in the floor was covered with a plate. It has a newer 1GM 
engine with low hours also. 

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

David is saying the truth…. There was a Swan which was crunched on some rocks 
on a jetty down south a number of years ago. The owner got the check after he 
knew how much repairs were going to be. The yard stripped the boat (it had a 
big hole in the side and had nearly sunk) of everything! Engine, all 
electrical, tanks, etc… Built a new boat into the hull – (after just a few 
hours in the water, they found corrosion in the wiring 10-15 feet away from any 
damage – it spreads like fire!). He ended up with a great “brand new” boat 
which matched his excellent set of sails and other rigging. And re-designed to 
make it better than new. But…. Great craftsmanship, knowledgeable owner and 
yard, and a year’s worth of work.

 

This one appears to have been damaged so long ago that the basic shell of the 
boat is compromised, as well as all the rest of the systems. Pretty, but a lot 
of bondo!

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David davidrisc...@msn.com  

 


Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

 

Richard...you are numerically right.  But I would not rebuild a waterlogged 
boat.   Those water issues, like in a semi-flooded and thereafter "fixed" car, 
seem to forever migrate and show up years later.  As has happened, most likely, 
in the instant case.

 

Apparently it could not have happened to a nicer guy...

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!] 

 

 

If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?

Richard

s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com> >
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low! 

Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ? 

I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon 


On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/ 

  

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com 

  



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Re: Stus-List Mast step repair

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I did much the same as Dennis on my 30-1. I used some very strong plastic stuff 
(3/4” sheet, doubled for the three crossmembers) from McMaster-Carr to replace 
the stringers which spanned the gap in the bilge. I filled the rest with epoxy 
so that water would not sit in the lowest part of the bilge, which was right 
under the mast. Now, I can empty the bilge or sponge it out with ease. After 
the year of sailing every week, no change in the rig.

 

Good luck, the worst part is the sawdust/fiberglass dust which comes from the 
cleanup process, the rest is relatively easy. Good mask and good vacuum.

 

Gary

30-1

Maryland, out of the water yesterday.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2018 8:13 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step repair

 

Jim,

 

The most critical thing is to measure everything before you start.  Granted, 
the step has subsided so you need to account for that.  Measure against a known 
reference point.

 

Next, make sure you understand and make accommodation for drainage from the 
fore section of the boat.  This may be as simple as laying a short piece of PVC 
pipe in the bilge before you start the job.  Also consider any cable runs under 
the step, if any.

 

Consider where you are going to transmit the load.  The "shoulders" of the 
bilge should be fairly strong.  The shoulders are where the hull turns downward 
to the bilge.

 

Other than those two considerations, wing it!  

 

You may be able to use a car jack and 2x4's to lift the cabin roof and remove 
the compression post will you do the work.

 

When I rebuilt Touche's mast step in 2000, Here's the steps I took.

 

*   Cleaned out all the old rotted wood from the original step
*   Sanded the shoulders to reveal clean fiberglass
*   Cut a piece of cardboard for the floor leaving a nice gap for drainage 
and cables
*   Formed more cardboard for the fore and aft ends
*   Laid in multiple layers of epoxy glass spanning between the shoulders 
of the bilge until it reached the proper elevation

Here's pics:

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WK_x9fw5BbqbNJN1UoduAQ68AJ2UuUcu

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sxolf_U_8EDzVeLUUYghorYhe4h_nLaP

 

Note the marks denoting locations.  The top of the epoxy glass block can be 
seen between the step box and the lip of the sole.

 

Pretty much a brute force solution.  That block of epoxy glass will last 
millenia.  

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 6:25 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks for the reply Neil

 

My 26 is a bit more complicated -- the mast itself is stepped on the cabin top 
with a king post extending down to the support in the bilge, It's the support 
that has failed. I'm referring to that support as the mast step in this case as 
it is where the load is concentrated. 

 

Due to the warping of the "step" the cabin top and bulkheads have deformed by a 
half-inch or so and will need to be reshaped.

 

As you say, the cabin sole covers the outboard sections of the that spans over 
the keel at the turn of the bilge. I'm planing on cutting out those sections of 
the sole for access and room to glass in the new support.

 

Guess I'll figure it out as I go.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jim Hesketh

'78 C 26

Coconut Grove, FL

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version had a dorade vent with scoop in that opening. I mostly race,
so remove the scoop because it hangs up various lines - spinnaker sheets and
so forth. I reinstall when I want venting for the chain locker. There is a
small indent for an anchor line in the deck at the forward end of the anchor
locker lid. I keep the anchor in the locker until I am ready to deploy.

 

Gary #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Cleverboy via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2018 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Cleverboy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker?

 

Hello,

 

I have a 1973 30mk1. It came with what originally I assumed was a plastic
covered opening for a dorade or inspection port in the bow for the V-berth.
But in climbing all the way forward to check the running lights, I found
that the deck opening was just forward of a bulkhead up there. So, it
appears that the opening was there for the installation of a Hawspipe. The
bulkhead created the space for a chain locker.  I've seen other boats with
hooks that would hold a dansforth anchor across the bow pulpit.

 

Charles Ferrari

Destrier

C mk1

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of T Smyth via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2018 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: T Smyth
Subject: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker? 

 

C 30 (1974) Hull ID CCY302860574





Any ideas where I might locate the "optional anchor roller and anchor
locker" to purchase for this boat?





In the current design, apparently there is no anchor locker. Curious how
others are solving this problem.





(When I bought the boat recently, the anchor resided in the starboard
lazarette.)





Thanks for any suggestions.





Tom

 

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Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I would assume the track would be for a spinnaker downhaul. But. on a 1973
boat the mast may be more flexible than the tree trunk I have. It could have
been for a line to help bend the mast or to stabilize it. Mine definitely
does not need either, but I have a pad eye mounted there for the spin
downhaul. There should be a plastic cover in the vee berth area right under
that track. If you don't plan to use the spin pole, you could remove the
track and plug the holes and have a cleaner foredeck.

 

You do need to get some of those drink holders which hang on the lifelines
to avoid spills.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Cleverboy via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2018 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Cleverboy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker?

 

Gary;

 

My 30 is from 1973 and was raced extensively for its first ten years. Most
of the fittings and lines I recognize, but, I have a track with a car
running down the foredeck. The spinnaker poll has only one bridle for the
uphaul. Not sure what that track helped control. I mostly solo sail with
guest that wish I had a power boat so their drinks wouldn't spill. I don't
think i'll miss it but was interested in it's function.

 

Charles Ferrari

Destrier

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Gary Nylander via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2018 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker? 

 

My 1980 version had a dorade vent with scoop in that opening. I mostly race,
so remove the scoop because it hangs up various lines - spinnaker sheets and
so forth. I reinstall when I want venting for the chain locker. There is a
small indent for an anchor line in the deck at the forward end of the anchor
locker lid. I keep the anchor in the locker until I am ready to deploy.

 

Gary #593

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Cleverboy via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2018 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Cleverboy mailto:cvf10...@hotmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker?

 

Hello,

 

I have a 1973 30mk1. It came with what originally I assumed was a plastic
covered opening for a dorade or inspection port in the bow for the V-berth.
But in climbing all the way forward to check the running lights, I found
that the deck opening was just forward of a bulkhead up there. So, it
appears that the opening was there for the installation of a Hawspipe. The
bulkhead created the space for a chain locker.  I've seen other boats with
hooks that would hold a dansforth anchor across the bow pulpit.

 

Charles Ferrari

Destrier

C mk1

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of T Smyth via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2018 5:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: T Smyth
Subject: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker? 

 

C 30 (1974) Hull ID CCY302860574

 

Any ideas where I might locate the "optional anchor roller and anchor
locker" to purchase for this boat?

 

In the current design, apparently there is no anchor locker. Curious how
others are solving this problem.

 

(When I bought the boat recently, the anchor resided in the starboard
lazarette.)

 

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Tom

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I went with a plastic tank and the original straps (shortened a bit). There
are small 1x1 'fences' around the tank on the platform and I shielded the
tank from the straps with some rubber strips.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

The tank in my 38 had similar pitting and a small leak. It was sitting on a
plywood platform aft of the engine and transmission (and pretty much over
the stuffing box).

 

When I replaced the tank, I put (5)  4"x4"x1/4" pads made from neoprene seal
bought at my local  Lowes. The tank is held in place by two wooden battens
over the top of the tank in an athwartship orientation. The battens are held
down by stainless rods attached to the support platform with washers and
wing nuts on top of the battens to tension the tank down on the rubber pads.

 

I suspect the idea of battens glassed in under that tank would work - after
all the idea is to allow air circulation so you don't get corrosion - so
long as you can keep the tank from shifting around as the boat moves.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset
Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Nauset Beach mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank - the
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking
and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a
couple of questions about installing it:  

 

The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the ends of 2
stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.
This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or less in place, which wore
on the two end points of the stringers, and that is where corrosion
developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone (Rick Brass (?) who
is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) recommended glassing
in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity for moisture to
collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.
Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?  

 

The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.
How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that
looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come
with this from Defender: 

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down
-kit

=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879  

 

And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an
acceptable way to restrain the tank?  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have a simple bail about 2/3 way back on the boom. I clip a line on that
and run it forward to a snap shackle on the rail then back to a cleat on the
top/side of the cabin. 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

 

Mine goes form mid-boom to the toerail. I have never seen an end-boom
preventer.

I also have a boom brake device I need to rig up one of these days. It does
not prevent a gybe, it just makes it sloow

Joe

Coquina

 

On 3/16/2019 11:51 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List wrote:

My Gybe preventer is simply a soft Vang taken to the toe rail.

 

Works great and doesn't require any special rigging.

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  
 on behalf of David Knecht via CnC-List
 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 11:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer 

 

I have been thinking aobut rigging a preventer on my boat so re-read this
old discussion of how people rig them. End boom attachment sounds
preferable, but does that have to run outside the shrouds?  If so, then you
would have to rig it before letting the main out while you can stlill get to
the end of the boom.  Then, how do you gybe when you want to?   

 

  I have a single reef point on my new main, so I have an extra internal
boom line and sheave  from the second reef setup that exits at the rear of
the boom.  I am thinking that if i put a long enough line with a snap
shackle at the end where it exits the boom, I could use that as a preventer.
Before letting the main out downwind, you would grab the shackle and run it
forward to the toe rail near the bow and clip it in and then have control
from the stopper on the cabin top.   Thoughts?  Dave 

PS- No expectation of offshore/big waves racing in my future so this is a
cruising/club racing solution

 





 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 





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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Check your local rules – some areas (ours for one) only allow the pole to be 
extended out to the J measurement (forestay to mast). That may restrict you 
from the optimum sail shape.

 

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 12:42 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

 

We race non-spinnaker class and a few years ago I got an extendable whisker 
pole for the genoa.  I am unsure about optimal settings for pole height and 
length.   I suspect it is sometimes suboptimal because I have noticed some 
boats able to carry the genoa poled out at much closer angles than I have 
achieved.  Presumably the optimal pole angle is near perpendicular to the 
apparent wind.  It seems that extending the pole flattens the sail to some 
extent but I suspect it is more complicated than that.  Height I have no idea.  
Any general rules of thumb?

 

 Related to this, the VMG chart I have from C  has optimal VMG downwind 
apparent angle of about 140-145° true.  Are those numbers +spinnaker, 
-spinnaker standard or -spinnaker wing on wing with whisker pole?  Thanks- Dave

   

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Beats me, my 1980 version has nothing like that. Just wiring to the wind
instrument and VHF antenna at the top. Lower down, there's wiring for the
steaming light/deck light combination.

 

Gary

30-1 #593

St. Michaels

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steven A. Demore
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

 

I have the mast of my C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced
the wiring and found a cable I'm not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge
stranded single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red
insulation on it.  If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about
20 feet of cable coiled at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to
the top of the mast, where it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.

Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there
something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum
wouldn't do?  I'm afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious
argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel
bolt or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody
have a picture of one and how it is mounted?

 

Thanks,
Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have six oak wedges and two stainless straps on my 30-1. I've seen some
ads for some hard rubber or plastic wedges which look interesting, but have
had only one oak one break in 25 years, so... The comment about Spartite or
some other system to fix the mast at the partners contradicts the idea that
you use the little plywood shims at the base of the mast to control mast
rake. My boat has four of those, they were split, two in front of the mast,
two behind, and for more rake I now have one in front and the other three
aft.

 

Not a big issue, just renew your wiring and remount.

 

Gary

#593

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steven A. Demore
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2019 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

 

I had my C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat
came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get
through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger
what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn't sure whether C
came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory
used to support the mast through the deck?

Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on
the mast?  I'm replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of
the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The
boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main,
but I don't know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.

 

One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum
ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because
of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a
series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?

Thanks,

Steve

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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
around the square end of the rudder post which sticks out under your feet
while you are standing at the wheel.

In my view it is of limited usefulness. First it is so short and at a funny
angle. The only thing I could see it use for is to hold the rudder steady in
one place, there is not enough swing room to do any worthwhile steering.

It should be obvious when compared to all the other 'boat stuff' you have.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently
for an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C
30 of that vintage (1976)?
Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of
this topic on the archives or in manuals.
Just planning...

Thanks!

Tom
C 30 MK 1 (!976)
Shangri-La
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The hull down toward the keel is solid. I have my depth transducer in the
compartment under the forward dinette seat, near the mast. Also speed.

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Morris via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2019 11:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Subject: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

 

I'm installing a new thru-hull depth transducer on our 1975 C 30 Mk1,
which requires cutting a hole for it. Dumb question I'm sure, but is the
hull cored or solid? Any suggestions on where to locate the transducer on
this model?

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com  
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avast.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I use a wick – yes it becomes pretty ugly after a while. For most of our boats, 
the toe rails are in two pieces – each around 15 feet long (on my 30 at least). 
There is a seam where they meet, but it is not at the lowest place on the deck. 
A piece of unused halyard or sheet laid in the low spot and then run through 
one of the holes in the rail will wick almost all the water out. Dennis’ 
webbing is more elegant.

 

After having part of my rail off the boat, I don’t see why you could not put a 
hole in the rail – above the flat part to let the excess water out.

 

Gary Nylander - 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2019 9:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

 

Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to inspect 
the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner cut a notch 
in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and outside 
to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some boats where this is part 
of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds reasonable, except it will 
become a green slimy worm after a while if not cleaned... :)

 

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two 
different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical except 
the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per foot to clip 
snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is it?  It seems to 
me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that nicks the deck and the 
hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile 
assembling it.

 

Have another look.

 

Ken H.

 

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 

 

While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly hack 
job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe rail or 
similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to drain.

 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

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-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

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Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I tried the SR version of Hydrocoat after using the normal version for years. 
That year it didn’t work in the middle of the Chesapeake. I went back to normal 
and it was better. It appears the special versions of some of these paints are 
very good in certain conditions – only.

 

I was happy with ‘regular’ last year and will try again this year – never know.

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jerome Tauber via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

There is an anti slime version of Hydracoat. More expensive. PETTIT PAINT 
Hydrocoat SR Dual-Biocide Ablative Antifouling Paint. Hydrocoat SR takes the 
proven formula of Hydrocoat and adds the slime inhibitor Irgarol for effective 
prevention of tough hard and soft growth. Jerry 


Specifications:Aluminum Safe:  Not Aluminum SafeAnti-Slime Additive:  Irgarol


Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 10, 2019, at 8:28 PM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The PO of our boat used SeaHawk in Mobile Bay. It looked great at the survey 
after 2-ish years.

I'm now in North Carolina in the Pamlico River. Had SeaHawk Biocop TF blue put 
on May 2017. I had the boat pulled last week to install a a PYI dripless 
stuffing box and cutlass bearing and the bottom still looks great. I've cleaned 
it in the water only 3 or 4 times (using scuba) and I've had a short pull and 
pressure wash twice in almost to two years. I'm in brackish water and in a 
creek that doesn't get a lot of current. Highly recommend it!

Mark Baldridge 
~~_/) 
'89 C/40+ "The Edge" 
Surf City, NC 

On 3/10/2019 6:43 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List wrote:

I’m curious to see the responses as well.  Last year was my first with ablative 
bottom paint and I used TotalBoat Underdog.  Great reviews, but my experience 
in the Chesapeake Bay was that I had to be hauled and pressure washed by late 
summer, because I couldn’t get the engine above an idle.   The barnacle growth 
was complete coverage of the prop and about 3” thick algae forest on the hull 
with heavy barnacle growth under it.  I know last year was bad for growth on 
the bay, but I have to find something better this year.  

 

From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

Am searching for a better water based ablative multi season bottom paint.  Moor 
in a river with salt tidal water so there is a constant water movement.  
Temperature ranges from 55 in early spring to 70 in late August.  Have used 
Pettit Hydrocoat SR with less than satisfactory results – much slime.  Came 
across SeaHawk which by its claims looks promising.  Anyone have experience??

 

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/boat-bottom-paint-c-13523.html/boat-bottom-paint-water-based-bottom-paint-c-13523_14116.html/monterey-self-polishing-solvent-free-bottom-paint-p-9484.html

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 





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Re: Stus-List Used Nexus Instruments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’m interested. Don’t need the wind – mine is working. Would not mind the extra 
propeller. My speed sensor is also a bit wonky, but would like to try another, 
need displays, have computer, don’t need depth. 

 

Sounds like we may have a fit. What are you asking? How many displays?

 

Gary Nylander

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net  

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ed vanderkruk via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2019 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Used Nexus Instruments

 

I have a full set of Nexus Classic just replaced with B Wind transducer is 
not working. Speed was a bit wonky but think the paddle wheel was sticky. 
Classic computer. 

 

Autonav autopilot computer and head.

 

Nexus ferro compass.

 

Including a new-in-box spare depth transducer. 

 

Ed Vanderkruk 

 

Toronto, Ontario 

 

On Tue., Jun. 4, 2019, 11:13 a.m. Rod Stright via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Anyone out there have any used Nexus instruments they have replaced and no 
longer need that could be used for spares for a good working system.  You can 
pm me at strig...@eastlink.ca   to avoid bothering 
others on the site.

 

Thanks

Rod

Halifax

 


  _  


  

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
www.avast.com   





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Re: Stus-List SAIL TRACK MISSING PART

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Or drill a hole into the mast from the aft side, through the sail track, and 
tap it for a ¼ x 20 stainless bolt. Works well.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 2:07 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List SAIL TRACK MISSING PART

 

If you have a slot in the mast extrusion, you can drill a hole through from 
port to starboard, and insert a clevis pin. It's easily replaceable if you lose 
it, and it's only a couple of dollars.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 10:40 AM Sam Salter via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Those are called “Mast Gates”!

Do a search, there are a few sites that sell them.

I think Binnacle Marine also sell them.

 

Sam Salter

C 26  Liquorice 

Ghost Lake  Alberta


On Jun 9, 2019, at 11:13 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Same here. 2 pieces each side of track  that screw inro mast close the track. I 
did find a piece shown on board so not sure if its original method. 

John

John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon

www.flirtingwithfire.net 

 

 


On Jun 9, 2019, at 12:10 PM, Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My 33-2 has a simple screw on plate that closes a widening of the sail track. 
If I lost mine I’d make another out of a piece of aluminum. 

 

Dave

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 9, 2019, at 5:38 AM, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:

There are a couple different types of track stop.  You have to know what type 
of track cross section you have.  Round, flat, or tides marine (strong track) 
all come to mind.  Round and flat can be found at most chandleries. 

 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--sail-track-stops--P002_068_001_505
 

 

 

For the strong track system you'll need to contact tide marine. 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello: 

 

1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides in 
the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?  

 

Ray Macklin

LakeHouse

Milwaukee WI.

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On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello: 

 

1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides in 
the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?  

 

Ray Macklin

LakeHouse

Milwaukee WI.

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Your spinnaker is just a small bit larger than mine – less than a foot longer 
in the foot and a few feet taller. That is possible to handle with two folks on 
the foredeck – end for end jibing and a 13 foot pole. On the 30-1, our pole is 
13 ½ feet and our hoist is 39 whereas yours is 44. We have been doing 
end-for-end and using a single set of sheets for over 25 years with success.

 

We do have a set of twings – the lines are run through blocks on the rail at 
the widest point and run back to cam cleats/blocks near the cockpit. We use 
them all the time, pull them tight when jibing, letting the ‘sheet’ end loose 
and keeping the pole end tight. We are not very brave and do not do serious 
reaching with the chute because it is full and high shouldered – would like to 
have a smaller, flatter, chute for reaching, but that just adds complexity for 
our short races. The 30-1 is very stout, I don’t know how tender the 33 is.

 

I have crewed on a number of boats with sheets/guys and dipping and I find our 
way is much simpler – and not so prone to mistakes. But I’ve crewed on J-80’s 
and find a sprit and asym easiest of all. The 115 I will be on tonight with an 
extra long pole is most difficult to get right.

 

Keep it simple and you will find it enjoyable.

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels MD 

30-1 Penniless

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 4:17 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

 

 

I believe that regardless of method (end-for-end or dip jibe) the consensus is 
that the baby stay is best disconnected and stowed at/on the mast collar.

 

I've always been an end-for-end foredeck crew but that was on someone else's 
boat.  With just 2 spin-lines (1 guy and 1 sheet) it kept the setup simple.  We 
had twing blocks but only set them as an after though and most of the time not 
even then.  The downhaul was usually effective enough unless we were forced to 
be on really deep down wind runs for a long time.  The helmsman and tactician 
knew this was a slow point of sail so they avoided that point of sail.

 

I've learned from this list that the end-for-end is typically good for boats up 
to 35-ish feet.  Much over that and the pressures involved with such a large 
pole and kite become difficult for even the biggest of crew to manage.

 

On Wed, Jun 12, 2019, 3:23 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

It depends on your sail configuration. You said you have a light number 1. We 
have an all-purpose no.1 and a rather large no.2, and a “working jib” as our 
number 3, which we seldom use here on the Chesapeake. So, if it is blowing, we 
will start with the number 2 and a reef (only have one). On downwind legs we 
may shake the reef out, but I only remember a couple of times we have changed 
to the 3 as it is only about 105% or so, whereas the 2 is 135 or 140 or so. 
This year, we have had 3 races where we have sailed with the 2/reef/shake out 
configuration and we won 2 of them. Maybe would have won the other, but an 
eager crew removed the reef line when we shook it out and we were not brave 
enough to try to put it back in, and ended up flogging the (full) main for 
about half the race. But that is on a 30-1 which is stout! We did have a couple 
times when we tested my window caulking, and we enjoyed watching some of the 
more tender boats in the fleet dunking their sails.

 

Gary

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2019 4:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

 

That sure seems to be true and I wonder why???  Are we just being too cautious 
when we start with a no.2 or when we drop to the no.3?  Or is there really no 
need ever for a no. 2?

Although cloth density might make a difference if our no. 1 is really for light 
air.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Tuesday, June 18, 2019, 03:29:55 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

For those of us race and change sails, one of my racer buddies told me you 
never change down from a #1 to a #2. You always drop to your #3. In my years 
racing since he told me that, I’ve come to agree with him. 

You might start with a #2 but you rarely change down to one. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar SB8 shut off

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On mine, definitely not. Ignition off just turns off the warning lights and the 
tach. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Otf Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 11:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar SB8 shut off

 

When you turn the ignition off, does it activate a solenoid that shuts the fuel 
off?

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 10:57 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar SB8 shut off

 

I am very familiar with the gm/hm/ym/qm series engines... Not so much with the 
SB8 series.

 

That being said, whatever actuation method is employed, it is best for the fuel 
to be shut off to kill the engine.  If there is a fuel solenoid - fine.  If 
there is a throttle actuator that goes below idle - fine.  Ultimately you want 
the engine to be starved of diesel fuel.  What you don't want is to regularly 
kill the engine by obstructing the air or eliminating the compression.  These 
methods allow fuel to collect and linger on the cylinders after shutdown.

 

Check your engine to see what is being activated to shut it down.  If it is 
fuel related then you're probably fine leaving it as is. 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

On Wed, May 1, 2019, 10:43 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Listers!

 

Probably a dumb question but in my research I have encountered a variety of 
opinions about shutting down the SB8. 

 

The previous owner had disconnected the kill switch and just used the ignition 
to shut the engine down. I have always used the kill switch on all my diesels 
and this concerned me. Any opinions out there on this subject? Should I 
reconnect the cable or is it fine to just use the ignition to turn the engine 
off? Any concerns about doing damage to the engine or electronics using this 
method?

 

Thanks so much! Approaching launch date but still some projects to complete!

 

Chris Graham

1978 C 26'

Papillon

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Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

A good buddy of mine rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder – it came out great! It is now 
a year old and just went back in the water for the season. I’ll try to get some 
pictures.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 12:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

 

Thanks everyone,

I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition Composites. Both options are 
landing well into the $5000 cdn range (including freight) which is way beyond 
my budget. Foss Foam doesn't have a C Rudder mold but can try to "match" 
something similar which scares me a little and it's roughliey $1200 US to get 
it to Canada. Competition has a very expensive high-tech process using CAD 
software and a milling machine which I'm sure is standard for any Americas Cup 
contender but drives the price as expected.

 

 

Has anyone tried to re-build their own rudder? - I've been told carving 15lb 
density rigid foam and encapuslating is the way to go - like this:

http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/rudder-rebuild.html

 

Dan

 

 

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 9:00 AM Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent 
workmanship,Canadian 

Rod

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List   > wrote:
> 
> Has any C owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where did 
> you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they have an 
> existing mold to work with.
> 
> Dan Cormier
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

+3. Have had it for about 20 years, still working great – Guido made properly 
shaped brackets for me as well.

Gary

St. Michaels

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 11:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

 

+2 on the Garhauer rigid vang. 

 

I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift is 
such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido made 
custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs – included in 
the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one on the 38 about 
2004. 

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The C I race on has one which is connected while at dock – to the shrouds, 
which I assume are connected to the grounding system. My C is seldom 
connected to shore power and is run for about half an hour a week (out to the 
race course and back), so I don’t use one. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2019 9:58 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

 

Listers,

 

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort. 

 

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 








 






 

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Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As I mentioned the other day, a friend rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder. I now
have a bunch of pictures of the process in case anyone wants a blow-by-blow.
I must say, as I didn't see it after he took it home for the task, just how
rotten it was. I don't know that any of the C rudders are made up of
layered plywood fastened to a backbone, but this example was mush...

Email me if you are interested, I don't want the burden the list with the
horror show.

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
Gary


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Re: Stus-List 'Kedging anchor' for ICW

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Our system, when running into mud in Georgia, (on a 36 foot motorsailor with
Sheel Keel), was to drop the dinghy, take a main halyard and small anchor,
take it way out sideways to stabilize the boat, and then wait 5 hours for
the tide to go out and come back up. Boat got way over, undamaged, and when
afloat again, we merrily continued on our way. The fat Sheel Keel does NOT
lend itself to being powered backwards, even with about 80 hp and a 23 inch
prop.

I managed to bury a Bermuda 40 about 100 yards from its dock after a race
here on the Miles River while being "guest skipper". The board was up and it
took all the tricks - heel, weight forward, crew hanging on boom, windless
with anchor, and motor. Still didn't work. A curious guy in a 20 foot power
boat came by and we talked him into taking our anchor way out. Then, all the
other tricks did actually work. 

On the Chesapeake, if you haven't run aground, you have been faking it.
Gary
St. Michaels MD

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2019 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 'Kedging anchor' for ICW

Our ICW system worked as follows:

1. Run aground

2. Everyone off the boat, swim around and find the deep water.

3. Everyone back on and all but one sit on the boom.

4. Swing the boom out, heel over, and head towards area found in step 2.

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We have owned our 30-1 for 25 years now, and, as our sailing dreams have 
changed, it still seems to answer the need. A couple more feet would not be a 
bad thing. A divorce in everything but boat ownership and the ex-Admiral still 
drives “her boat” with her new husband and some of the old crew on Wednesday 
nights and I drive “mine” at other times, do a little cruising and some weekend 
racing. 

 

I’ve been watching your thought process with interest. I think, if you are 
comfortable with the concept of the 35II, I don’t see as much downside as 
others seem to see. It is a very good, stout, well sailing boat with some 
extras – maybe too many.

 

I would think that the engine issue with its complications may be a turn-off 
for many, but I don’t see why, with your skills, that a couple days stripping 
the extras out (water maker, extra batteries, and other items) you could get it 
down to a ‘normal’ boat. Then you have a garage full of stuff which may be 
handy in the future. When our hot water heater rusted into a pile, it came out, 
as we found our cruising to various places with marinas was more to our liking 
than camping out. You don’t know right now what you may end up doing with the 
boat in the future. Long distance cruising? Offshore? I would think that you 
need to spend some time developing your sailing skills and interests, then you 
can do more intelligent planning for future endeavors.

 

Just a contrary opinion.

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

 

Thanks for all the great replies. Interesting about the 30-1 setup for 
offshore. There is one in Victoria selling for $55K (for almost a year now) 
that the owner put over 50K into, but never left due to health issues. 

re: the hull-deck joint. This is one reason I was looking at Ericsons for 
months, as their glassed over joint is said to be very strong and leakproof 
(outward facing flange, with inside glassed over). I was hoping to take this 35 
into some big waves to test the joint for leakage, but the owner wasn't game 
for it. There is a hose at the slip, so I might try spraying it if I get a 
chance.

 

Still pondering things tonight. Thanks everyone!

 

 

On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 6:03 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Interesting discussion - thanks Shawn for launching it.

 

Last October at Emerald Bay, Catalina Island I moored a chartered Catalina 390 
next to C 30 MK I hull #493, “Katherine Patricia,” hailing port Berkeley, CA. 
 I spoke with her owner Alexander Simpson, who is not on this mail list as far 
as I know, but is on the C owners’ Facebook group.  He said he’d sailed her 
from the West Coast to Hawaii and back.  We didn’t discuss what kind of 
conditions he encountered.  But he did say that in preparation he’d resealed 
the deck / hull joint (with 5200, which made me wonder if that’s the right 
material for that job).  His boat was also set up with a self-steering wind 
vane and an asymmetrical spinnaker.

 

I’ve also seen a couple 35-40’ C in marinas at Harbor Island, San Diego, but 
have no idea if or where those boats have sailed.  Maybe down Mexico way.

 

As for Grenadine, the worst conditions I’ve been in were 48mph gusts at 
Chatfield Reservoir. We saw it coming and doused the headsail before getting 
hit, but had to motor head-to-wind into the shadow of the dam to douse the main 
safely, then motored to the marina and took two tries to get into the slip.  
Sea state is not that big an issue on my lake.  So all that doesn’t really 
apply to your question.  But having said that, I chartered a Bali 4.5 cat in 
the BVI a few weeks ago.  We had some 25kt days, with 6’ wind waves, and 
another day with a 5’ east swell, and I would have loved to sail Grenadine down 
there.  I’m sure she would have handled it just fine, and loved it.  Didn’t 
happen to see any C on that trip, and not for lack of looking.

 

Josh I’d be interested in that article you referred to, if you can find it.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO





On Apr 24, 2019, at 5:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

1I saw a C in Uruguay.  It's hailing port was in Delaware.  So there is that.

 

My experience and my the reports from others is that C are generally well 
built, strong boats.  That being said, "Are the good blue water boats?"  I 
would suggest no.  They typically have less tankage than other similar sized 
boats.  They often have fin keels that create a flat spot forward of the keel.  
This can result in a pretty good pounding with the right wave height and 
frequency.  Most of them were catering to the racer-cruiser an as a result tend 
to carry a bit more sail for the racer but as a cruiser often had shorter than 
appropriate keels.  

 

Many people have blue 

Re: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Great shots - I spent my first summer on the Chesapeake crewing on one of
these - if you think you have a sore fanny, try bouncing up and down the
boards. Looks like the breeze was a bit light. 

Gary Nylander
St. Michaels

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 7:57 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

I spent all Saturday being a chase boat and photo boat for the log canoe
races on the Chester River.
http://www.cryc.org/CRYCandCRYCCLogCanoeRaces/index.html

10 hours is a very long day in a 13 foot Whaler, next time I am bringing
better cushions!
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Log Canoe Race Photos

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Most of the canoes still have most of their wood in the hulls, some have been 
sheathed in fiberglass, but they still flex. (there is often a bailer person 
keeping them dry). The one I was on leaked between some of the logs. Very high 
maintenance.

They have a handicap system, which uses the length, width at certain points, 
and so forth. Sail area is not counted, that is up to the braveness of the 
owner and crew. 

The number 9 boat in Joe’s pictures is a steady winner – the family which owns 
it has two others as well. There is no way they are casual – as there is only a 
centerboard (about 8 feet deep, pivoting, with a cord of two feet or so – no 
ballast in them), the hiking boards as shown (usually more of them – from two 
to four) are the ballast with crew scrambling out to steady the boats and then 
scrambling down, taking the boards out from under the gunwale and sliding them 
to the other side when they change course.

 

Most of them are not steady enough to stay upright when the masts are up 
(spruce, hollow, works of art) without having the boards laying across them. 
The masts are raised by hand – generally about a dozen people hauling them up – 
pivoting on the mast step. They are tender and fast! When they tip over, they 
must be disassembled and taken to shore or a dock and then reassembled for the 
next race. 

 

Awesome to watch and exciting to race upon.

 

Gary

 

 

From: Richard Bush [mailto:bushma...@aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 10:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

 

Joe; fascinating photos...thank you ro sharing these; we certainly have nothing 
remotely close to that kind of racing around here...; are these boats used just 
for racing or are they used  for casual sailing etc.; They look to be high 
maintenance!  How are the races scored?  

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Sent: Tue, Jul 16, 2019 8:55 am
Subject: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

 

http://www.cryc.org/CRYCandCRYCCLogCanoeRaces/index.html 

 

 

OK this is the real link, no idea what happened to the last one???

 

10 hours is a very long day in a 13 foot Whaler, next time I am bringing better 
cushions!

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As my boat is berthed next to Higgins (and winters there), I asked. Busy. The 
marinas around here are busy until the end of October. We only have a few slips 
available – Higgins has about 20 but a lot of repeat visitors, St. Michaels  
Marina has more but is busy most weekends, you may be better at CBMM (I am 
involved there and can ask) and Harbor Inn and Marina is limited and expensive.

 

I asked at Higgins (by the way they are new owners and great folks, but are 
keeping full) so I have to wonder how many attendees would be willing to anchor 
out – we can probably find a place for a party – my lawn is too small – the 
shuttle service is rather good, so anchoring is not a problem – I would 
recommend Fogg Cove by the Museum (and Perry Cabin megabucks resort – you have 
to endure the Hinckley tour boat and the fleet of Alerions of various lengths). 
About 10 feet and good holding.

 

Would you consider Miles River Yacht Club – again limited slips (bunch of owner 
boats) but the ‘creek’ has good space and I think the shuttle would be OK to 
get into town?

 

Sorry for no more local knowledge, but it has been a busy spring/summer, and we 
don’t have a lot of room, but a great place to live and sail.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

I don’t think we have a final location. The Maritime Museum is fun. The Harbor 
Inn on the other side is luxurious. Higgins is a boatyard – not fancy – but 
nice people. The St Michaels Harbor Marina (sp??) is loud and the owners don’t 
care. Kind of the party marina over there.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

Where in St. Michaels?

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

 

email: dainyr...@icloud.com  


On Aug 13, 2019, at 11:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Sounds fun! We love fall :)

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 11:11 AM
To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

That's right.  Weekend after sailboat show in October.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 10:56 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I seem to recall something about St. Michaels maybe?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’ll have to walk the block over there… Thanks. What do you think about 
somewhere to meet/greet. We could do something at the museum, but would have to 
bring the food/drink or get a catering outfit. Higgins has picnic tables, or 
reservations could be made for a group at one of the restaurants. What has 
worked before?

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2019 12:56 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

I got word from Higgins they should be able to accommodate ~6 boats.  We had 5 
official boats in the reserved slips at Annapolis last year plus S/V Rainy Days 
who stayed separate.  When I attended the 2017 N.E. Rendezvous there were 5 
boats with a late breaking cancelation.  So 6 feels good as an unofficial 
count.  I need to move fast to make the reservation.  As I was warned St. 
Mike's does lots of festivals and that weekend turns out to be one of their 
biggest.

 

As Gary stated before, Higgins is not a "Marina" it is a boat yard.  The cost 
is very reasonable but amenities like pool and restaurant are not available the 
bathrooms are sparse.  My favorite thing about Higgins is the location.  It is 
perfectly located in the center of town.  Such an easy walk everywhere.

 

This is the make or break day on whether we keep the venue at St. Michael's or 
change to a different venue.  

 

PLEASE RSVP TODAY SO THAT I CAN MAKE THE FINAL DECISION AND DOCKAGE RESERVATION!

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley

443-295-3238 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 11:50 AM detroito91 via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Will take your advice

Jim Schwartz 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 8/19/19 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned 

 

I would reserve a room now. St Mikes is a popular place to go and you want to 
be in town.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: detroito91 [mailto:detroit...@aol.com  ] 
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 9:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

We should be there without boat

Jim Schwartz 

38 landfall 

SEA YA !

Washington nc 

 

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Re: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Or, you could have a Monday morning boat like mine. When I was trying to center 
the mast, I discovered the chainplate on the starboard side was an inch closer 
to the rail than the port one.  

 

Gary

30-1 – 1980 (maybe a Friday afternoon boat before vacation time?)

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 12:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

 

I might be stating the obvious, but the boats are not completely symmetrical. 
They are, after all, made by hand by humans and they all have various 
imperfections. So the shape might be a bit different on stb or port; the boat 
might be listing in one direction; the keel and rudder might not be 100% 
symmetrical etc. 

 

On a boat with a keel-stepped mast, the deck opening through which the mast 
goes might be off by a small amount; as Josh mentioned, a 1/4” might be a lot, 
when you consider the length of the mast.

 

And on top of that, the growth on the bottom is also asymmetrical (the stuff 
grows on the sunny side more than the opposite).

 

in short, I would not consider difference in performance on different tacks as 
the symptom of a off-centre mast. It might be, but it is not the only one.

 

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

 

From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 12:33

To: CNC List 

Cc: Len Mitchell 

Subject: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

 

I am following this thread with great interest. I measured distances using the 
main halyard and believe my mast is plumb. The partners and foot hold the mast 
centred as far as I can tell and as long as the boat, keel and rudder are 
symmetrical. I continue to point higher and get better performance on a 
starboard tack and the boat lists a couple degrees at anchor, probably because 
of the battery bank located sb. There are more reasons than mast plumb that a 
boat performs better on one tack is my point. I noted better sb performance 
with all combinations of water tank and holding tank levels. I have tried for 
over 10 years to tune a better balance but she still sails a little better on 
starboard tack! 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+ 
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray