Re: Stus-List Getting oven to work
This help? https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Seaward-Replacement-Parts-for-Models-3172-3372/ Dennis C. On Thu, Mar 26, 2020 at 12:33 PM Brian Chambers via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hey, I hate to butt in on your conversations but it appears you may know > something that might help me. I have a 79 C 34 with a Hillerange > stove/oven. I am in need of an interior oven shelf. I attempted to order > what I thought wa the right one some time back but it was too big. I am > unsure of the model. Any ideas? > > Brian Chambers > MerSoleil > > Sent from my iPad > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 7:02 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List > wrote: > > The manual is available on the CnC site if you don't have it. It may get > you fixed up. > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/hillerange_stove/ > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > > On Fri, 13 Mar 2020 at 11:03, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Will, >> I'm not sure how the oven works, but I have a complete oven/stove I'm >> willing to let go for next to nothing. Tired of storing it. It is off my >> 1988 LF. >> >> >> >> Doug Mountjoy >> sv Rebecca Leah >> C Landfall 39 >> Port Orchard yacht club >> >> Original message >> From: Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List >> Date: 3/13/20 10:09 (GMT-08:00) >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: Will Gerstmyer >> Subject: Stus-List Getting oven to work >> >> My 1986 Hillerange oven’s pilot light will light but the mechanical bar >> that is supposed to move* and then light the entire long burner does not do >> anything, nor does the pilot flame get larger*. >> Does anyone have some tips on how I can correct my situation? Thanks, >> Will C Costume Change >> >> *my understanding of what is supposed to happen from some reading. >> >> Will Gerstmyer >> 978-609-1331 >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fuel tracker app
Yes, a phone app. I currently, like several of us on the list, track fuel usage manually. Every gallon of fuel Touche' has used for the last 15+ years has been dutifully logged with the date, amount, location, fill up (yes/no), the knotlog miles and the engine hours. Another column lists the gallons per hour manually calculated. I calculate long term average gallons per hour as well as gallons per hour for individual trips. Any deviation of individual trip GPH from long term average GPH could indicate an engine problem, dirty bottom, problem with propeller, etc. So far I have resisted the urge to do a spreadsheet for all that. I just thought it would be nice to have a phone app that did most if not all of that. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 12:46 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Are you talking about a phone app? It is simple division, miles traveled > and gallons used gives MPG or hours run and gallons used gives GPH. You can > substitute hours for miles no problem. > > Not sure why you need an app for that though?? > > An actual device to measure fuel used is an amazing thing and vastly > superior to a gas gauge. I use them flying frequently and the best ones tie > to the GPS to give you a NMPG reading and set off an alarm if you won’t > make the next waypoint with enough fuel. They all will show gallons used, > gallons remaining, and instantaneous GPH. > > The problems for our boats are twofold: > > 1. A diesel has a return line, so you need two sensors to keep track > of actual fuel used. > > 2. Our engines burn so little fuel that many totalizers will fail to > read correctly. If it is designed for say 0-100 GPH, it might be quite > inaccurate in the pint to quart to half gallon an hour range. > > > > Joe > > Coquina > > * one more thing, they rely on accurate user input of gallons added. Air > Canada famously ran a jet out of fuel because the fuel gauges were broken > and they relied on the totalizer. They ordered say 3,000 gallons and got > 3,000 liters or similar, programmed in the larger incorrect number, and ran > out with no warning. > > > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. > via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 10:58 AM > *To:* CnClist > *Cc:* Dennis C. > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Fuel tracker app > > > > Anybody found a good app to track fuel usage by engine hours? Most of the > ones I've looked at track by mileage not engine hours. > > > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Fuel tracker app
Anybody found a good app to track fuel usage by engine hours? Most of the ones I've looked at track by mileage not engine hours. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List All Marinas in Miami closed
Just saw a newly coined word for those guys "covidiots". Here in Louisiana, the price of crawfish has dropped precipitously. That indicates some folks are heeding the advice to limit large groups of people. Yeah, you gots to stay home, cher. You don go bringing yourself to no crawfish boils, no? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Mar 22, 2020 at 10:32 AM James Hesketh via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Just received an email from my Marina in Miami > > Yesterday some idiots sent out a mass email inviting boaters to a raft-up > at a sandbar for today. > > The Mayor saw this and issued an order to close all boating activities for > pleasure boaters. > > All Marinas are closed -- boat owners will be allowed to check on their > boats, but no work or maintenance will be allowed. I'm assuming our > liveaboards will still be allowed to say aboard. > > I'm in the middle of painting my decks/cabin/cockpit and have all the deck > hardware removed (including cleats -- my dock lines are currently ties to > the toe rail) so there are a lot of holes to keep covered. > > All public ramps are closed, and police will be patrolling the waters and > will stop any boats under way. > > The only exception is for commercial fishing vessels that sell to > businesses. > > Good Luck to you all. > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller
The cast aluminum tiller head fitting on my previous 27 foot boat broke. Fortunately I was in the marina and not far from my slip. I clamped a large pair of Vise Grips on what was left of the fitting to get into the slip. It wasn't easy. Dennis C. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Masthead light pedestal
Touche's anchor light is mounted above and off to the side of the masthead on a simple metal bracket. See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qd6WI2xuVY-vP2Ge8iatyydGk4IL3sbn Been a while but I think it's just a piece of aluminum or stainless with two 90 degree bends. It would be easy to make one with a single 90 and fasten it to the side of the mast. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Mar 19, 2020 at 4:16 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I started to install my new Marinebeam masthead light and found that it is > very low profile. The base for the Tacktick wind sensor is right in front > of it and will partially block the light from view directly ahead. I am > thinking that if I could mount it on a short (1-2”) pedestal of some sort, > I could get it above the Tacktick. I have not found anything appropriate > yet, so I am hoping someone on the list can think of something that might > work. Thanks- Dave > > David Knecht > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Self quarantine on your boat?
Hmmmneed to do the spring maintenance coat of Cetol on the teak, install a 120 vac receptacle with USB ports, wax the starboard side (port side done), etc. I'm sure I can find more things to keep me busy. Wonder if the marina has disinfected my finger pier? Thinking about a 14 day COVID-19 cruise. What's the "social distance" in an anchorage? 6 boat lengths? Is there a reverse Q flag? i.e. I'm not sick but Stay Away! Or should I just fly my Smith & Wesson flag? You think we'll see a Generation Q (quarantine) start in about 9 months? I think I got cabin fever. Got to keep a sense of humor during these trying times. Stay safe, all. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Coronavirus & Caution - The New C
My club, Pontchartrain Yacht Club, has basically closed. New Orleans Yacht Club has closed. Their Wednesday night races are cancelled. On the other hand, I just saw this on the NOYC forum about a double handed race this Saturday out of Tammany Yacht Club on the east end of Lake Pontchartrain: "Two - social distancing: check. Outdoors with fresh lake breeze: check. Great exercise: check. Sailors likely to maintain a blood alcohol at/above virocidal levels: check. Hell this could be the answer to COVID-19 conundrum! All seriousness aside, the club will be closed in compliance with local guidelines. The SI's wil be posted on the TYC website soon and no live skipper's meeting will be held. So seek out your most hygenic crew that has no cough or fever and plan to have a fun and healthy Saturday." Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 7:48 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers, > > I’m curious to know what your local clubs are doing in response to the > COVID-19 pandemic. We have a regatta scheduled for April 4 and we are > already discussing cancelling the skippers meeting and post-race > festivities - perhaps cancelling the event altogether. > > What are you seeing in your areas? > > Hope everyone on the list remains safe. > > All the best, > > Edd > > ———- > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the “Starship Enterprise” > C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > www.StarshipSailing.com > ———- > 914.774.9767 | Mobile > ———- > Sent via iPhone 11 Pro > iPhone. iTypos. iApologize > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Battery fuse philosophical question
Yeah, Oops. Dennis C. On Sun, Mar 15, 2020 at 5:40 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Typo, should read MRBF for 'Marine Rated Battery Fuse' block. > > Ken H. > > On Sun, 15 Mar 2020 at 19:27, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> MBRF??? >> >> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com >> >> On Sunday, March 15, 2020, Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> Got to thinking about ways to install an MBRF fuse block on a 2 battery >> house bank. There are a couple ways to do it. >> >> Option 1: Install an MBRF fuse block on the positive terminal of each >> battery and run positive cable for each battery to same connection on back >> of battery switch. That is, the #2 terminal if the house bank is #2 on the >> switch. >> >> Option 2: Run positive cable from House Battery 1 to positive pole of >> House Battery 2 then install MBRF fuse block on top of that cable and >> pole. Then run single cable from the MBRF fuse block to battery switch. >> >> Option 2 saves you one MBRF fuse block. Option 1 protects cables from >> both batteries in the event one battery fails and all the draw comes from >> the remaining battery. >> >> Personally, I think Option 1 is preferred and is how I wired Touche's >> batteries. Not sure Option 2 would be ABYC compliant. Particularly if the >> cable from Battery 1 to Battery 2 is longer than 7 inches. >> >> Touche' also has MBRF fuse block on the start battery. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Battery fuse philosophical question
Got to thinking about ways to install an MBRF fuse block on a 2 battery house bank. There are a couple ways to do it. Option 1: Install an MBRF fuse block on the positive terminal of each battery and run positive cable for each battery to same connection on back of battery switch. That is, the #2 terminal if the house bank is #2 on the switch. Option 2: Run positive cable from House Battery 1 to positive pole of House Battery 2 then install MBRF fuse block on top of that cable and pole. Then run single cable from the MBRF fuse block to battery switch. Option 2 saves you one MBRF fuse block. Option 1 protects cables from both batteries in the event one battery fails and all the draw comes from the remaining battery. Personally, I think Option 1 is preferred and is how I wired Touche's batteries. Not sure Option 2 would be ABYC compliant. Particularly if the cable from Battery 1 to Battery 2 is longer than 7 inches. Touche' also has MBRF fuse block on the start battery. Dennis C. Touche' ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.
Does it have a collar on top of the rudder tube? My 35-1 does. Must be removed before dropping rudder. For a picture, scroll down to about Page 14 here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=115qLR3c13N2THCRpsOF-7UGGJBweFXfd Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 2:19 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi all, I started the process of removing my rudder. I have loosened the > quadrant and cables attached to it and removed the bearing on the top of > the rudder. Should it now just drop out? What else needs to be done?. > > Thanks all. > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak rates)
In my opinion, bilge pumps should wired to a house battery. A dedicated wire should run from the battery or its connection on the back of the battery switch to a purpose made bilge pump “on-off-auto” switch with self contained fuse. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 11:35 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > My charger outputs go only to the batteries, which power the relay panel > switches/breakers, one of which is the bilge pump. Should I use a fuse on the > battery positive terminal in addition to the circuit breakers on the breaker > panel? > (I don't recall whether the bilge pump circuit breaker was 'thrown' or not in > the tale below). > > I now also have an electronic switch--unfortunately it gets dirty often from > the bilge and doesn't work until its cleaned off by hand. I think it is a > Water Witch 200 (?). > > Charlie > > -Original Message- > From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > To: C > Cc: ALAN BERGEN > Sent: Sat, Mar 14, 2020 12:03 pm > Subject: Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak > rates) > > After two float switch failures, I switched to an electronic switch. No more > failures. Besides having a circuit breaker on the AC side of your charger, > you should have fuses in the DC side, > > Alan Bergen > 35 Mk III Thirsty > Rose City YC > Portland, OR > > On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 8:24 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > Thanks all for your replies--I might need to tighten the packing gland or > replace the packing material. > > My fear about leaving the auto bilge pump on is a result of a failed float > switch many moons ago: > > I was away from the boat between weekends (at least) and it may have been > several weeks and left both the bilge pump and battery charger on as I always > did. > > When I did get back to the boat, the bilge pump switch was on but it was not > running--so I initially thought it probably failed. I try to start the engine > and no joy--the battery was dead. > I check the charger, see that the AC power was on but the power converter > breaker on the instrument panel was off. Thus I start to check out the > Xantrex battery charger. > > As I open the lazarette to have a look, I get a distinct 'smoky' order. I > then notice that there is soot and a black 'spot' on the charger cover, near > one of the ventilation 'slots' of the charger. Apparently (?) the charger was > running continuously trying to keep the battery charged while something was > continuously discharging it. (Ultimately, I noticed that the float switch was > stuck in the high water position which led to these conclusions.) > > With the soot/spot on the cover, things got pretty hot within and near the > charger before the breaker went off. I figure I was pretty close to having a > fire start in the charger and the boat burning to the water line with no one > around. > > My thoughts may change but this episode put the fear of fire much higher on > my discomfort zone than a sinking. Further, I don't believe any of the small > bilge pumps that would 'fit' in my shallow bilge could keep up with any leaks > of a serious nature--shaft seal leaks and water down the mast excluded. > > Also, if it goes to the bottom I still have a boat, not a boat 'carcass' > burned to the water line! > > There are probably better methods of bilge pump/float switch installs that > might prevent a recurrence of the scenario above. Any lister suggestions > would be welcome. > > Ultimately the boat WAS protected by the AC circuit breaker in the charger > circuit, but not before something in the charger got hot enough to 'smoke'. > > For now, I have almost been 'burned' once and prefer to never get almost > 'burned' again! > > Charlie Nelson > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > Water Phantom > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_Rlw9n7rYam_VHk2rb9ap5Kaxyxo-HM6qTbwk9kGolAYiCwpiADr587n7FZQKWbUlS8$ > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >
Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak rates)
Look at the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switch. https://www.ultratef-gel.com/ultra-pump-switches/ It is contained in a tube so nothing will hold it in the on position. Extremely reliable switch. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:24 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thanks all for your replies--I might need to tighten the packing gland or > replace the packing material. > > My fear about leaving the auto bilge pump on is a result of a failed float > switch many moons ago: > > I was away from the boat between weekends (at least) and it may have been > several weeks and left both the bilge pump and battery charger on as I always > did. > > When I did get back to the boat, the bilge pump switch was on but it was not > running--so I initially thought it probably failed. I try to start the engine > and no joy--the battery was dead. > I check the charger, see that the AC power was on but the power converter > breaker on the instrument panel was off. Thus I start to check out the > Xantrex battery charger. > > As I open the lazarette to have a look, I get a distinct 'smoky' order. I > then notice that there is soot and a black 'spot' on the charger cover, near > one of the ventilation 'slots' of the charger. Apparently (?) the charger was > running continuously trying to keep the battery charged while something was > continuously discharging it. (Ultimately, I noticed that the float switch was > stuck in the high water position which led to these conclusions.) > > With the soot/spot on the cover, things got pretty hot within and near the > charger before the breaker went off. I figure I was pretty close to having a > fire start in the charger and the boat burning to the water line with no one > around. > > My thoughts may change but this episode put the fear of fire much higher on > my discomfort zone than a sinking. Further, I don't believe any of the small > bilge pumps that would 'fit' in my shallow bilge could keep up with any leaks > of a serious nature--shaft seal leaks and water down the mast excluded. > > Also, if it goes to the bottom I still have a boat, not a boat 'carcass' > burned to the water line! > > There are probably better methods of bilge pump/float switch installs that > might prevent a recurrence of the scenario above. Any lister suggestions > would be welcome. > > Ultimately the boat WAS protected by the AC circuit breaker in the charger > circuit, but not before something in the charger got hot enough to 'smoke'. > > For now, I have almost been 'burned' once and prefer to never get almost > 'burned' again! > > Charlie Nelson > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > Water Phantom > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Stuffing box leak rates
I leave my bilge system on 24/7/365. My Rule bilge float switch failed last year. I wanted to replace it with an Ultra Safety Systems switch. That switch had a week delivery time. I bought and installed another Rule as a temporary measure. Then when the USS switch came in, I drove 8 hours round trip to swap switches. That’s how serious I am about having an active bilge pump system on Touché. Even though I never expect the USS switch to fail, I keep the Rule as a spare. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 13, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List > wrote: > > Jeeze Charlie, > > This really surprises me.If I thought I had forgotten to leave my bilge > pump on, I wouldn’t be able to sleep till’ I got up and went down and turned > it on! > Couldn’t you just check all your electrical connections to the pump, make > sure it is fused properly, and whatever else would make you feel comfortable? > I have never heard of a bilge pump causing a fire, but I know Boat US states > that around 70 to 80 % of their major claims come from a boat sinking or > flooding at the dock or on mooring. > > I have had the PYI system for 23 years, and can’t imagine going back to a > dripping seal . . . > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie > Nelson via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 10:27 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: cenel...@aol.com > Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box leak rates > > My stuffing box leaks at the dock about one 'drop' per ~ 18 seconds. > > For fire safety reasons, I never leave my bilge pump on when I am away from > the boat so this leak rate plus possible other leaks lets water accumulate in > the bilge. > > What do the listers consider an acceptable leak rate when at the dock? > > None at all, 1 drop per minute, etc. ? > > Thanks, > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Painted/Awlgrip Hulls
First, knowing me and my somewhat casual approach to docking, I eschewed AwlGrip and choose AwlCraft 2000 instead. It is more easily repairable. Second, I managed to get Touche' professionally painted for about $4400 in 2011 by doing most the sanding and prep myself. I lightly sanded, degreased and prepped a small area for my painter to spray. He was painting a nearby boat with white AwlCraft. When he sprayed the prepped area, we saw crazy results. Different layers of old paint reacted differently. In some areas the new paint beaded up. In others, it dissolved the old paint and made a nasty pink color. The painter and I knew right away all the old paint had to be sanded off. I completely removed several coats of old paint using a Hutchins 2000 straight line sander. Do NOT use a disc sander. It will gouge the hull. You must use a straight line sander for best results. Took me 1 day per side. The pro painter shot 3 coats of high build primer then the AwlCraft. Still looks good. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 2:17 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Wow – I don’t think I have got an estimate around here under 12-15K for a > 35 foot boat. That would be worth going to NC to get done! > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring
Dave, Philosophically, the MRBF fuse should protect the wire from the battery to through the switch to the PowerPost. That wire should be sized to handle the maximum load on the PowerPost. If you run individual wires to each fuse, that fuse should be sized to protect that circuit and its appropriately sized wire. If you want to check wire size, download Blue Sea Circuit Wizard for your mobile device. http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/ Remember, the wire run is there and back. I would consider the distance for your circuits to be from the PowerPost, through the fuse, through the user (pump, light, whatever) and then to the ground point. Your ground point may be another PowerPost. In Touche's case, I terminate the individual grounds in the breaker panel on two buss bars. The buss bars are connected by a larger wire to a ground PowerPost. The larger ground wire is sized to handle the conglomerate load of the circuits. Sorry I don't have a circuit diagram. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 3:21 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Dennis- That makes sense. I also have MRBF fuses on both batteries, so > I could presumably do the same. It would certainly simplify the wiring to > just connect that heavy battery cable at the panel end to a Powerpost and > run from that to the various circuits. I am never confident about doing > fuse issues correctly, so this helps a lot. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Mar 12, 2020, at 2:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker > panel. Less than 3 foot runs each. The PowerPost is essentially fused > because there are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts. > Therefore, whether the battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse > prior to the battery switch and therefore the PowerPost. The MRBF fuses on > the batteries serve Touche's entire electrical system except the bilge > switch which is supplied directly from a battery and has its own fuse. > > Hope that clarifies for you. If not, just holler. I plan to be on the > boat this weekend if you need more info. > > Dennis C. > > On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply. The Powerpost Plus looks >> like a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that. Do you have >> that near the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel? I gather this >> is not fused, so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and >> putting it near the panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker. >> In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to >> the panel. But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the >> same size. There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the >> rotary switch directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits >> would only have the panel breakers and no fuse. I don’t know what was >> original and what added later as all that predates my work on the wiring. >> I plan to map all the circuits this week so I know what comes from each >> wire. But that setup does not make sense given what Shawn says about the >> logic of the fuses near the rotary switch being so you could have a long >> run of heavy wire to the panel. Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> >> On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Dave, >> >> Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common, >> especially in older boats. Just need to ensure the proper wire size to >> carry the load to all the users. Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss >> bar which carries the power supply to each breaker. The piggyback wiring >> is philosophically analogous. >> >> Personally, there are better ways to do it. If there's a place for a >> buss bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then >> connect each fuse to a connection on the bar. I would not stack a bunch of >> separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch. >> >> On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection >> of the battery rotary switch. That is, when the battery switch is "ON", >> the Powerpost is live. A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a >> couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel. Each breaker is then >> supplied individually from the buss bar. >> >> N
Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring
The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker panel. Less than 3 foot runs each. The PowerPost is essentially fused because there are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts. Therefore, whether the battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse prior to the battery switch and therefore the PowerPost. The MRBF fuses on the batteries serve Touche's entire electrical system except the bilge switch which is supplied directly from a battery and has its own fuse. Hope that clarifies for you. If not, just holler. I plan to be on the boat this weekend if you need more info. Dennis C. On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply. The Powerpost Plus looks > like a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that. Do you have > that near the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel? I gather this > is not fused, so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and > putting it near the panel, I would lose the fuse before the breaker. > In my setup, some power runs from the rotary to the 4 fuses and then to > the panel. But those wires are not larger than about 10-12G and all the > same size. There is also a heavy battery sized cable running from the > rotary switch directly to a bus bar behind the panel. So those circuits > would only have the panel breakers and no fuse. I don’t know what was > original and what added later as all that predates my work on the wiring. > I plan to map all the circuits this week so I know what comes from each > wire. But that setup does not make sense given what Shawn says about the > logic of the fuses near the rotary switch being so you could have a long > run of heavy wire to the panel. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Mar 11, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > > Dave, > > Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common, > especially in older boats. Just need to ensure the proper wire size to > carry the load to all the users. Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss > bar which carries the power supply to each breaker. The piggyback wiring > is philosophically analogous. > > Personally, there are better ways to do it. If there's a place for a buss > bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect > each fuse to a connection on the bar. I would not stack a bunch of > separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch. > > On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection > of the battery rotary switch. That is, when the battery switch is "ON", > the Powerpost is live. A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a > couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel. Each breaker is then > supplied individually from the buss bar. > > Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker. A better pic > might help. > > You should have a fuse at the battery. I have these on Touche': > > https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring
Dave, Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common, especially in older boats. Just need to ensure the proper wire size to carry the load to all the users. Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss bar which carries the power supply to each breaker. The piggyback wiring is philosophically analogous. Personally, there are better ways to do it. If there's a place for a buss bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect each fuse to a connection on the bar. I would not stack a bunch of separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch. On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection of the battery rotary switch. That is, when the battery switch is "ON", the Powerpost is live. A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel. Each breaker is then supplied individually from the buss bar. Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker. A better pic might help. You should have a fuse at the battery. I have these on Touche': https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I understand the wiring in general and how the circuit works. I am not > sure what the logic is to have created the double crimp tabs in order to > bridge power from one fuse to the other. I get that each fuse will > function for the circuit that goes to the panel. What I am unclear on is > #1, why have a fuse before a circuit breaker on the panel > #2- is this the “right” way to accomplish safe wiring. I could instead > bring separate wires off the + from the rotary switch to each fuse rather > than the bridging setup if I replace the current fuse holders. > > Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List edson chain lubricant
While I understand and appreciate Edson's dry lube, you might research dry bicycle/motorcycle chain lubricants for comparison. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Mar 9, 2020 at 8:11 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am wondering what others use as lubricant on the chain drive of Edson > pedestals. The manual says motor oil, but Edson has a new spray product I > saw in Sail magazine. I also thought about Boeshield as possible. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Rudder post zerk fitting
Couple of concepts for you. First, using your stainless sleeve idea, explore a Helicoil. Many grease fittings are 1/8 NPT. https://www.amazon.com/Recoil-36028-Thread-Repair-Inserts/dp/B00KGO2DK0 A Helicoil (thread repair fitting) will give you increased hold in the fiberglass tube. I suspect you have a bit of room between the inside of the tube and the rudder shaft. If you mark your drill bits with tape for maximum depth, I'm thinking you can enlarge the hole with consecutively larger bits before tapping with the tap supplied with the thread repair kit. Insert the coil then install the grease fitting. Another concept would be to leave the existing hole as it is and epoxy a layer or layers of glass on the outside of the tube. You could glass the grease fitting in as you apply the layers. Alternatively, you could clone the outside diameter of the tube, fabricate a "patch" with the fitting epoxied into it and then epoxy the patch on the outside of the tube lining the fitting up with the existing hole. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 9:15 PM Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote: > I tried to grease the rudder post on my '81 C last year and the nipple > when touched, fell out of the fibreglass and in my hands. I could see what > appeared to be the stainless rudder post through the hole. I was going to > enlarge the hole, put a larger stainless sleeve in first then insert a > nipple or a hose to a nipple. My questions is, can I drill out the > fibreglass, deep enough without damaging the shaft and when I epoxy the > sleeve in place, can it be done without having epoxy get into the shaft > area. Also, not knowing the construction, is there a bushing of some sort > wrapping the rudder post or does it just move in the fibreglass encasing > with grease. I'm hoping not to remove the rudder to do this. The rudder > moves freely and is not wobbly at all. I just want to get grease in there > and maintain this long term. > > Thanks, > Paul Hood > '81 C Georgian Bay > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Transom cover to protect from sun
The thread on paint was timely. I commented that I was beginning to see some fading on Touche's transom as it faces the sun in my Pensacola slip. Red seems to be particularly susceptible to fading. I just talked to my canvas maker about making a custom "transom cover". The cover would cover the rebuilt teak taffrail and the transom. Any lister's thoughts on the pros and cons of draping canvas down the transom? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls
Had Touche' painted with Awlcraft 2000 Sunfast Red in 2011. (Awlcraft is easier to repair than AwlGrip.) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsZWl4THRKbnNmbGM Wash it periodically with AwlWash and polish it with AwlCare. Sides still look great. Seeing a bit of fading on the transom. In Touche' Pensacola slip. the transom faces the sun most of the day. Accordingly, I apply AwlCare polish to the transom much more often than the sides. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 12:46 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls; > if so, what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the > work; are there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots, > etcthanks! > > Richard > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Racing Marks Question -- Not C Related
In my club, it's accepted that if a mark is missing, boats make every attempt to turn at the stated location of the mark. We have a couple of permanent club-maintained race marks that are well offshore (miles). They disappear every few years. We usually don't know it until we discover it during a race. In that case, boats turn at the plotted location. Except for dinghy races, all our marks are located at plotted and publicized positions. Rule 34 is fairly moot on a mark missing during a race. Conduct for missing marks and the location of marks should be stated in the sailing instructions for the race/regatta. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 4:13 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers, > > As you all know, this past summer, I relocated my home, office and the > Enterprise from City Island to the Suncoast of Florida — and I’m getting > involved in the race management over here, which has been terribly lazy. > > One of the big issues we face is lack of resources. Marks are dropped in > the water a day or two in advance of a regatta and then are either cut > loose, vandalized or have broken free by the time a race is actually run. > And there is no chase boat usually available to either drop a new mark or > put up an M flag to act as one. > > Someone brought up the idea of a virtual mark in case a mark is missing, > which is a new concept to me. I was thinking of language in the SIs that > say something along the lines of “If a mark is missing or has moved more > than 300 feet from its stated latitude/longitude position, and the race > committee is unable to replace it, then the mark shall be the stated > latitude/longitude position.” > > Basically, the thought is, especially since this happens now and again, > not to have to cancel a regatta because a mark has disappeared. > > Has anyone ever used “virtual marks”? Does anyone object to the practice? > If so, why? > > Appreciate anyone’s input. Even Risch’s. > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Interesting article
https://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2020/03/02/the-resurging-cruiser-racer/ One can only hope. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist
Spring is coming and it's time to make sure your boat is ready for sailing. Here's the link to the C Photoalbum recommissioning checklist. It can also be found in the DIY section of the site. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/checklist.pdf While it might not be the ultimate checklist, it provides a darn good start for most of us. You can download it and customize it for your boat. And remember, this valuable resource is supported by donations from the list members. (This message from the shameless cncphotoalbum marketing department) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting
I wanted to brighten up Touche's head. I covered the aft and outboard bulkheads with a frosty white "Formica equivalent" and painted the inside of the head door with Interlux Brightside Off White or Hatteras White. See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M Like others, I prefer the look of teak elsewhere in the interior. I spent many, many hours sanding and varnishing the interior teak. I did that in 1999. Still looks great today. Note: the veneer in older boats is thicker than in the newer boats. Attempting to sand the interior teak veneer in newer boats is risky. I'd recommend a combination of good teak cleaner and brightener. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Feb 29, 2020 at 5:37 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks for your perspectives. > > I admit that I had not considered that freshening up the boat as I planned > would diminish the value--given the sorry state of the water stained teak > my thought was that it would increase the value! > > My thoughts were that something needs done with the current teak in the > boat--especially the main cabin where the water stains are--and that in > order to do the teak with varnish, the stains and the teak really need > cleaned up--far beyond just doing interior varnishing over a previously > varnished teak. My teak was never varnished, only left natural with very > occasional oil rubbed on--maybe twice in 25 years. > > Given the stains, my guess is that cleaning them up for varnish > application would likely double the cost of the refresh since the surface > prep would be extensive and then there are multiple varnish coats to be > addressed. After likely 5+ boat bucks, I am left with a likely very pretty, > shiny AND dark teak interior. I have not been to any boat shows lately, but > all the ads for boats show pictures with light, airy, bright interiors. I > think that might make my 1995 model look more like a 2015 or 2020 model > boat down below, as opposed to a 1985, 1975 or even older boat. Of course, > I could be totally wrong in this since I have only sold ONE boat in my life! > > Painting the faces of the teak doors (both cabin and storage), drawers, > etc. and leaving the remaining teak alone appears to me to keep the cost > reasonable AND add substantial brightness to the cabin. BTW, my head was > finished by the factory in a similar manner--almost all the surfaces are > off-white (Formica or painted wood--not sure)--only the cabinet handles and > trim are teak and it still looks great. > > I am faced with trade-offs of cost vs. change in value (+ or -). I doubt > that any varnish or paint job will add or subtract substantially to the > boat value at sale time--its more a matter of > "...the lesser of two weevils..." to copy from Patrick O'Bryan. If I am > right or even close to it, I need to get the best refresh for the money and > to me that seems like paint vs. varnish--although I still cringe a little > when I think of painting over mostly solid, is seriously stained, teak! > > FWIW, > > Charlie Nelson > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > New Bern, NC > > > > > -Original Message- > From: David Risch via CnC-List > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: David Risch > Sent: Sat, Feb 29, 2020 4:51 pm > Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting > > Charlie, > > On my 1981 40 I painted part of my head and the countertops of the > galley. They were, of all things, teak. > > I would not, however, go to the extreme you speak of unless you are > keeping it forever...to Neals point. > > Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. > > -- > *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Neil E. > Andersen via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, February 29, 2020 2:02:50 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Neil E. Andersen > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting > > Charlie, > > Good luck, just realize that your boat value will be diminished. > > Neil > 1982 C 32 FoxFire > Rock Hall, MD > > Yacht Broker > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Charlie > Nelson via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, February 29, 2020 12:24 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com > *Subject:* Stus-List Interior teak painting > > Thanks to all who responded to my email regarding my interior teak water > stains. It certainly would be a big job to remove them and then I would > need to redo all the interior teak with a varnish, etc. > > The result would be spectacular (probably) but in the end I would have a > pretty dark (but shiny!) cabin and be many boat bucks/hours poorer. > > Thus I have decided to go with painting most of the interior
Stus-List Ship's lights
Speaking of navigation lights, when the big supertankers first came out, folks weren't used to seeing them at night. There were several incidents around Tokyo Bay where small coastal freighters thought that, because the masthead and bow lights were so far apart, the tankers were two separate ships and tried to go between the lights. Wasn't long before the tankers started hanging strings of lights down the sides of the ship to show that they were one ship. Of course, then they looked like a lighted bridge. If you are unfamiliar with navigation light patterns, here's a test: http://www.usboating.com/testlights.asp Even if you think you know, it's a good refresher. I always miss several. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?
Use DOT conspicuity tape. Your boat will look like a semi truck at night. :) Dennis C. Touché Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 5, 2020, at 1:54 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List > wrote: > > Great idea, and very attractive! > > The only question is, my cove stripe is red. So does that mean I'd have to > make it green on the port side? :) > > Bruce > 1994 C/40 > "Astralis" > > > > Sent from Samsung tablet. > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List New thought re: anchor light?
+1 on the marine beam red and green nav lights. Dennis C Touché Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 5, 2020, at 8:44 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List > wrote: > > Agreed. Whether it be replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs in the > taillights of your car or the navigation lights on your boat, you need to put > a red bulb behind a red lens, a green bulb behind a green lens, and a yellow > bulb behind yellow turn signal lenses. > > Lenses filter all colors except the desired output, and so you're stripping > out a lot of the light if you use white LEDs. > > And, I can attest that when I put the MarineBeam LEDs in our bow lights, they > are truly bright! > > Kindest Regards, > > Bruce > > > Sent from Samsung tablet. > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?
Aside from Joe's comment on bugs, I see value in a "deck level" anchor light. I have one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Pactrade-Marine-Navigation-Anchor-Splashproof/dp/B01KY4477I I plug it into a 12 vdc receptacle at the helm station and hang it from the boom. I also show the one at the mast top. Advantages: a spare anchor light and it can be seen by drunken party barge drivers (is that redundant?). Disadvantages: bugs and more light in the cabin for sleeping. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Condensation - opening galley port
Shawn, I've been travelling so a bit late on replying. Look at this: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsb3lSZzZBdzJuV3c I replaced Touche's original galley port with a Lewmar opening port. We have a pressure alcohol stove and the port really helps to vent the fumes. The only trick is to ensure the bulkhead thickness is uniform. I inserted wooden dowels between the cockpit bulkhead and headliner. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Jan 23, 2020, 9:42 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I like the sound of an opening port above the stove. What kind do you > have? The only opening port I have on our 35-2 is in the head, and I never > open it as it collects water on the outside, and the dogs are a pain to > tighten properly to prevent leaks. > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Condensation
I keep two of these on my boat. Of course, you need 120 VAC for them. https://www.amazon.com/Caframo-Limited-9406CAABX-Dehumidifier-Circulator/dp/B0009L675W These heater fans are very light just a couple pounds, if that. During the cooler months I put one on the cabin sole in the galley area and one on the cabin sole forward of the head. Touche' has a day/night solar vent in the head. So one heater fan is forward of the vent; one aft. I never see condensation on the boat. During the summer months, I place a single heater fan on the cabin sole in the center of the saloon. Again, I never see condensation. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 1:18 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I wonder if anyone has any profound opinions on condensation, two aspects > in particular I am concerned with. > > One is in the engine, I have seen boats who have plugged the exhaust > pipe(s), and maybe even the intake inside the boat – > > > > And also in the cabin. I usually leave a hatch and something else on the > other end of the boat open, so some air can circulate throughout the winter. > > Then I began to doubt the usefulness of this a couple weekends ago, when > It hit 71 here, and was still 45 down in the cabin. > > I noticed lots of condensation below, which really bothers me. > > > > Does anyone know what the best solution is ? > > > > Bill Coleman > > Erie PA > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List furling fail annoyance on a warm day
Yes. Absolutely. Get a nice Beneteau with one of those French furling systems. :) Dennis C. Touche’ 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 12, 2020, at 5:36 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > wrote: > > The whole boat? > > Joe > > Coquina > >> On 1/12/2020 6:01 PM, margaret christiansen via CnC-List wrote: >> Norrmal procedure in case of FAILURE is to REPLACE IT!!! >> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >> >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List furling fail annoyance on a warm day
I'm hearing that you tried to furl from 2/3 rolled out? If so, most likely scenario (barring some sort of halyard wrap) was that your furling line was loosely wrapped in the drum as soon as you unfurled then tightened up as you sailed with the furling line cleated. What probably happened is you had an override in the drum. That is, a wrap or two tightened on itself and prevented you from pulling any more line from the drum. Each puff and tack may have tightened the override. Been there, done that. To prevent this (and you may already know this): 1. first, make sure the first block in your furling line system is adjusted so the furling line leads perpendicular into the center of the drum. I usually sight the line from off the boat to see if it is perpendicular to the forestay. If the block is too high, the line will ball up in the upper part of the drum. If too low, it will ball up in the lower part of the drum. Both situations will make the system prone to overrides. 2. Second, as others have said, keep a bit of tension on the furling line when unfurling. That will cause the wraps to be tighter on the drum from the beginning, thus minimizing any opportunity for overrides. Touche' has a Harken ratcheting carbo block for the aftmost block in the system. With the ratchet on and a 90 degree turn into the cockpit, the furling line always has a bit of tension as the sail unfurls. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Jan 11, 2020 at 4:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Today was a GREAT day for sailing, 20+ from the south so we had flat > water and great wind. We hit about 7.2 with just 2/3s of a jib :) > Heading back to the marina the wind was increasing and when we went to > roll the sail up, it was not rolling :( We ended up dropping it and > folding it up like it was the 1970s or something. THE HORROR > Anyway, the line for the furler feels kind of old and crappy. Has anyone > ever had the line jam itself inside the drum cover? > > Joe > > Coquina > > C 35 MK I Kent Island MD - land of pleasant living and 65 degree > January days > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painful and/or lingering decisions
Touche' has had one of the Bosworth flapper valves in the bilge discharge for nearly 20 years. No issues whatsoever. A flapper valve is, in my opinion, the best style for this application. Dennis C. On Wed, Jan 8, 2020 at 4:09 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I don't think a joker valve is the right valve for bilge waste, > Fisheries has one I think is better, but I don't know from experience. Yet. > > > https://www.fisheriessupply.com/bosworth-company-cv-0400d-check-valves-barbed-ends > > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy > Stafford via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2020 4:36 PM > To: cnc-list > Cc: Randy Stafford > Subject: Re: Stus-List Painful and/or lingering decisions > > Replaced all bilge plumbing. Did not install check valves downstream of > bilge pumps. Ran batteries dead twice from cycling bilge pumps (each time > had to pull them out, take them home, charge them, take them back, put them > in - ugh). Then installed check valves from Defender which contain small > rubber joker valves. I’m expecting those to start leaking from the > antifreeze I pour into the bilge for winterization, same reason the one in > my head starts back-flowing every spring. I may have to replace those > check valve jokers annually to avoid cycling bilge pumps again. > > Cheers, > Randy > Grenadine 30-1 #79 > Ken Caryl, CO > > > On Jan 8, 2020, at 1:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > I'm sure most of us have a story (or two) about a boat related decision > we made that we wish we'd done differently. Many of them probably involve > "cheaping it" or doing something in haste. Some are painful; some are just > lingering "shoulda woulda's". > > > > One of my "lingering" ones is having my Navtec hydraulic backstay > adjuster rebuilt by someone other than Lew Townsend out in Seattle (Lew was > on extended vacation and I was impatient). Went to boat this week after a > couple weeks absence and the backstay was slack.again. The adjuster > had eased an inch or so. It holds fine for day sailing or a race but eases > ever so slowly over a couple weeks. > > > > One of my painful decisions was installing a Lewmar line adjustable > genoa car system. While it works "okay", it doesn't adjust as easily as a > Harken system or perhaps a Garhauer system. > > > > Perhaps sharing some of your stories will save others from similar > regrettable decisions or, at worst, give us a chuckle. > > > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Painful and/or lingering decisions
I'm sure most of us have a story (or two) about a boat related decision we made that we wish we'd done differently. Many of them probably involve "cheaping it" or doing something in haste. Some are painful; some are just lingering "shoulda woulda's". One of my "lingering" ones is having my Navtec hydraulic backstay adjuster rebuilt by someone other than Lew Townsend out in Seattle (Lew was on extended vacation and I was impatient). Went to boat this week after a couple weeks absence and the backstay was slack.again. The adjuster had eased an inch or so. It holds fine for day sailing or a race but eases ever so slowly over a couple weeks. One of my painful decisions was installing a Lewmar line adjustable genoa car system. While it works "okay", it doesn't adjust as easily as a Harken system or perhaps a Garhauer system. Perhaps sharing some of your stories will save others from similar regrettable decisions or, at worst, give us a chuckle. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Adding a third water tank...
Adding a deck fitting and a shorter?? run of hose may be easier and less aggravating than the Y-valve option. I wouldn't think twice about adding a deck fitting. Been there, done that. If you have a nice clear location in a nearby cabinet, punch the hole, epoxy coat any balsa core, overbore and fill the deck fitting fastener holes and done deal. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Jan 8, 2020 at 12:26 PM David Risch via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello, > > > > I have two options of tank inlet; > > > >- Tie into (with “Y” valve”) existing water fill hose. Advantage is >one less deck hole for the fill. Disadvantage is a low point in the fill >hose between tank and y-valve where stagnant water will sit for a bit >between fills. > > > >- Separate fill inlet. Advantage – No low points. Disadvantage is >another hole in the deck. > > > > Any practical experience with this out there? > > > > Thanks in advance > > > > *David F. Risch* > > *(401) 419-4650* > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Re core my deck - resin vs epoxy
Not using epoxy with matte is also more desirable if you're finishing with gelcoat. Not sure how some of the newer epoxies that cure without an amine blush would work with matte. I haven't tried them. Vinylester resin is sometimes intimidating to DIYers because of the mix ratios. The West System proportional pumps make it so easy most of us just go for the epoxy. One thing I learned early on about polyester, vinylester and gelcoat applications was to "go metric". The suggested MEKP addition is 1-2% by weight. I used a small digital kitchen scale whenever I mixed them. However measuring by volume is usually close enough. Using mix cups and measuring cups labeled with mls (milliliters) will work. You'll need some of the small 30 ml measuring cups (medicine cups) for the MEKP. You won't get an accurate result if you're trying to measure 2-4 mls in a 500 ml cup. Whereas epoxy has arguably better bonding, vinylester resin is a lot less expensive and has about the same strength. Additionally, you avoid having to buy the West System proportional pumps. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Jan 3, 2020 at 7:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Jon > > Yes. I have been told no mat with epoxy. Of course this was after I had > in fact used mat with epoxy. It was about the fibres of the mat not > reacting with the epoxy as they do with polyester resin. In my mind I > think of "dissolving" but of course that would not be good. > > I will let others chime in on the reasons. > > Mike > Persistence > Halifax, NS > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List On Behalf Of JP Mail via > CnC-List > Sent: January 2, 2020 7:35 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: JP Mail > Subject: Re: Stus-List Re core my deck > > Thank you for the wisdom. And pics. No mat with epoxy? > Love me those Frers 33s. Looked at a few before Hideaway. Tried to make an > offer on one near home and couldn’t get through to owner. C’est la vie. > Jon > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List rooftop hatch A/C
Will, Most, if not all, the negative comments are directed at the CruisAir portable units. You're talking about the Coleman Roughneck AC unit. That's got quite a bit more BTU cooling than the small CruisAir portables. Give it a shot. Let us know how it works. Just make sure you've got sufficient wiring to handle the starting amps and the heating amps. Hope someone helps with the pin removal on your hatch. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Jan 2, 2020 at 4:31 PM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Still looking for help with our actual need: opening the space where our > v-berth hatch is! > Regarding comments, the roughneck unit is designed for harsh use, is > marine grade, 13,500 btu and ratings over 4.2 so I’m surprised folks think > it is a disaster already! > The unsaid background is this: Joy wanted A/C whereas I did not; our > compromise was to at least be able to air condition the v-berth (very few > cubic feet of air since most of it is 40” tall) and anything beyond that is > a bonus. We are retired travelers so we can pick our desired climate for > any particular season. We will only be at marinas 1/3 of the time so we > needed a unit that will not interfere with sailing or moving around the > boat (so “no” to any companionway ideas) and could be run off our Honda > generator. I also did not want major changes to the boat in case we decided > to not need an A/C later on. So the $900 is more expensive than window > shakers but with lots of upside possibilities and much less expensive than > invasive A/C systems. > Thanks for all the comments so far. > Joy & Will C Costume Change, in Portland Maine until May > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Rooftop A/C and deck hatch
An installed marine AC is sooo much better than the portable hatch units. When I bought Touche' in 1999 it had a water cooled box air conditioner in the hanging locker. I quickly replaced it with a Mermaid 16 KBTU AC/heat unit. That worked well until the water intake got plugged and the poorly designed high pressure trip didn't function. After a couple rebuilds by Mermaid I replaced it with a CruisAir (now Dometic) 16 KBTU AC/heat unit. The Dometic hasn't so much as burped in over a decade of use here on the Gulf Coast. It will maintain low-mid 70's in the cabin on the hottest days. As a buddy of mine said "that's one 'kick ass' air conditioner". Having a competent air conditioner/heater on Touche' (35-1) has greatly increased our enjoyment of the boat. Depending on which slip Touche' is in (Pensacola or Mandeville) we're either 1 or 4 hours from the boat. We spend many nights on board with the A/C cranked up. The Admiral likes a setting somewhere near "meat locker". The Dometic delivers. My buddy is a regional repair tech for Dometic. He services all brands. He is adamant the Dometic is the best. Installing a marine air conditioner is within the capabilities of many boat owners. It's fairly straightforward. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List cleaning the bilge
A shop vac might come in handy also. Any oil/water collected can be poured through an oil absorbent pad. Dennis C. On Thu, Jan 2, 2020 at 10:30 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > A roll of paper towels and a bottle of Simple Green should to the trick > unless you have a pool of oil, then two rolls will be better. Just did some > of that stuff. > > Gary > > 30-1 > > > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Bev > Parslow via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, January 2, 2020 10:54 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Bev Parslow > *Subject:* Stus-List cleaning the bilge > > > > Need to clean out an oily bilge. Can I use a normal degreaser, or will > that mess up the bilge pump? Any thoughts? > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Re core my deck
I've done a few deck peels. Years ago I documented a deck peel on the cockpit of a runabout. While not exactly the same, the repair is very similar. Here's a link to the pics and a Word document describing the process. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hAJ2BrQ05fUCGNY5K9GySS2afCubC-2A Again, note that I cut along the nonskid boundary to better hide the cut. Also note I left a ledge so when I replaced the skin so the elevation would closely match. If you've watched a number of YouTube videos on the subject, you should be good to go. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Re core my deck
Use a vibrating saw to cut the deck outside the damaged core. Follow a nonskid seam if possible. Peel the deck skin up with a thin flexible putty knife. Leave a 1 inch or so ledge around the outside when removing the damaged core. After the core repair, you can replace the deck skin on this ledge with a thin layer of epoxy and the elevation will match. Let a little epoxy squeeze out of the cut. Sand it smooth and you can finish it with gelcoat, paint or your choice of nonskid material. If you choose to finish with new glass, the top layer should be matte glass. A little putty and sanding will make the surface smooth. Putty is your friend. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 11:02 AM JP Mail via CnC-List wrote: > 1985 35-3. > I Need to recore a 1.5’ x 3’ area of deck. > I’ve started researching. > But I know there is good info here. > Best material, divinycell or balsa? > Anyone know the thickness I’d need? > Best type fiberglass to finish with? > Best way to hide it all? Deck paint and Nonskid? > Thanks in advance. > I’ve watched a bunch of youtube and I have mentally prepared myself to > take this on. > Jon > Hideaway > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 2020 Gulf-Coast Rendezvous (?)
March works. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Dec 27, 2019 at 9:08 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Rick, > > Great to hear from you. To be honest, the response has been very > underwhelming. I think February may be too soon and am now considering > early March. > > Any thoughts? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > On Dec 26, 2019, at 7:51 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Edd; > > Have you any more details about the potential rendezvous? Or indications > of interest from potential participants? > > I’m working on my travel/work plans, and will plan to drive down for the > rendezvous. I just need to confirm the date. > > Is there anything I can do to help? > > Rick Brass > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > ] *On Behalf Of *Edd Schillay via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 PM > *To:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List > *Cc:* Edd Schillay > *Subject:* Stus-List C 2020 Gulf-Coast Rendezvous (?) > > Listers, > > Thank you for the survey results — and based on them, I am considering the > following, and would appreciate any input you may have before I start > solidifying: > > The dates I’m leaning towards are February 7-9 and the best possible > location would be at Marina Jack’s in the middle of downtown Sarasota. > Marina Jack has a restaurant on site, plenty of deep-water slips (with > floating docks), a wealth of marine services, a meeting space, onsite > restaurant and more. It’s also right at the foot of famous downtown > Sarasota, a fabulous walking area filled with shops, galleries, cafes, > bars, restaurants, a comedy club, an opera house, and so much more. > > There are also hotels nearby, and I’m confident I can obtain for us a > lower group rate at the Hyatt Regency just a few blocks from the marina. > And, this is all a ten-minute cab ride from the SRQ airport, for those who > would want to fly in. > > I’m thinking arrivals on Friday, followed by a group pot-luck dinner on > Friday night. On Saturday, we can do a C boat show, possibly have Stu or > someone come in for a seminar/talk, have a group dinner at a local > restaurant (or bus everyone to my club), followed by a pub crawl. Then > departures on Sunday. > > The average daytime high for that time of year will be in the low 70s > (insert my new catch phrase here) with overnight lows in the mid 50s. I > think we’d get at least five-six (or more) C to attend, including the > Enterprise. > > I now welcome your thoughts (even Risch’s) as to timing, if you’d consider > attending (by boat or by land), and what it would take to make it a > must-see C Rendezvous. > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 replacement
What do the mounts look like? Most engine mounts bolt down to a rail and have a single stud pointing up that the engine slides down on. You may find it easier to unbolt from the rail and slide the engine forward rather than unbolt the vertical stud and try to lift it off. Be sure to mark everything to make re-installation and alignment easier. I pulled the AT4 out of Touche' years ago. Took about 45 minutes. Used the main halyard to lift it. We tied a snatch block to the boom with several wraps of line to ensure it lifted straight up rather than forward. Then we used the boom to swing it out to the pier. Having a bunch of 2x4's to help move it around is a good idea. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Dec 23, 2019 at 9:07 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi, > > After years of abuse and keeping it on life support, my A4 finally decided > enough is enough. So now I need to remove it and put a replacement back > in. My budget didn't allow for going to a diesel but I have a rebuilt A4 > coming from a person who rebuilds these as a hobby. He has a very good > reputation for the quality of work. > > I have been persuaded by two sailing buddies (both of who race Cal 40's) > that this isn't too difficult a job and they will help me do the > replacement. I am looking for any tips and gotcha's that this venerable > group can provide me before I get started. > > One major issue I can see is how to lift the engine off the mounts when > the engine is under the cockpit. My engine builder who has done this a few > times (but can't any more due to his age) suggested I slide a 6x4 under the > engine then use a 2x4 as a pivot and raise the engine by having someone > stand on the 6X4. Then once free of the mounts, gently slide it back into > the saloon and lift it out through the companionway. Has anyone tried this? > > I have lots of able-bodied helpers to help me so manpower won't be a > problem. > > I am going to do all this at the dock, so no crane to help with the lift. > And while the engine is out, I'll remove the fuel tank and clean it out. > I'm sure there's crud at the bottom. > > I'll document the experience for the benefit of others and share it once > it's done. > > -- > Ian Matthew > "Siento el Viento" C 29-1 > San Francisco Bay > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Happy Holidays
>From deep in de swamp, Joyeux Noel! May all of you have a happy, safe holiday season and a wonderful New Year. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Flying the 1.5 oz spinnaker
We've only flown the 1.5 oz spinnaker on Touche' twice. To say the least it's exhilarating. Back in the early 2000's when we were racing the boat hard, we were in a regatta on the Gulf Coast. On Saturday with two windward/leeward twice around races scheduled, it was blowing in the high teens to near 20. We rounded the windward mark, launched the 1.5 and prayed. Again, the rule on Touche' is never let the center seam in the bottom panel cross to windward of the forestay. We don't carry the pole square like we do in light to moderate breeze. We ease the pole forward so that center seam moves to leeward. This puts the boat in a quasi-reaching configuration. You're still susceptible to broaching but much less susceptible to a death roll (been there, done that, don't ever want to do it again). We also choked the chute with the twings to reduce oscillations. Since we were doing hull speed, we headed deep for the downwind mark and never gybed. Touche's 1.5 oz at that time had very narrow shoulders so the power aloft was reduced. This makes the chute easier to control. Even with all those measures and an experienced crew, it was a heck of a ride. We did a very early take down as I remember. Took 2-3 crew to wrestle the chute down. We chose not to fly it the second downwind but did again in the first downwind of the second race. I think we won our class in that regatta. Memorable day. Don't want to do it again. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up...
Well, there ya go. Good on ya. Hope this inspires you to attempt more "fixin'".to a point. I'm just the opposite. I'm one of those guys that says "No big deal. I can fix this." then totally buggers it up or invests way too much time and effort into fixing something that shoulda got tossed. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 8:49 AM David Risch via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard > questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the > problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. > > > > The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to > the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was > the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It > > seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the > engine was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the > bits of water flying about it was not so discernable. > > > > The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the > lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and > out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the > reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of > the water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. > Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into > the water were escaping unmuffled. > > > > These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly > apparent once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these > little marvels actually work. And also carefully observing the engine > while running on land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things > I should not have be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes > are correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck > with a still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to > spend on “funner” things. > > Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… > > > > *David F. Risch* > > *(401) 419-4650* > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
Yep. Probably more for show than increased performance. Mine is a 3-4 foot length of line with an eye on one end and a snap shackle on the other. Once the chute is set, the headsail should be immediately pre-fed and fed ready for hoisting at the leeward mark. The eye of the defraculator is attached to the stemplate or headsail tack hook and the snap shackle is clipped to the head of the headsail. The headsail halyard is tensioned pulling the masthead forward. At the leeward mark, the bow person blows the defraculator snap shackle and the headsail is hoisted. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 10:39 AM Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Pulls the top of the mast forward when going downwind with the kite up. > Bit surprised it does anything with a sturdy mast like the one on a 35-1. > > Jeff > > On Thu., Dec. 19, 2019, 11:27 a.m. Randy Stafford via CnC-List, < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hey Dennis - what’s a defraculator? :) >> >> Cheers, >> Randy >> >> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
Yes, spinnakers can nearly double your racing costs. Years ago, at the height of Touche's racing program, we had 0.6, 0.75 and 1.5 oz chutes, two part high tech Dyneema/StaSet spin sheets, Harken carbo-ratchet tweakers (twings), custom chute launch bags, double pole downhaul(goes down each side of cabin and is trimmed in cockpit), a spinnaker halyard parking cleat, a "defraculator" (don't ask), light air spin sheets and probably a few more boat bucks of stuff I can't recall. I'm guessing all that adds up to somewhere around 10 big boat bucks. You don't need to dive in that deep. A used chute, a few blocks and some old sheets will start you off just fine. Yes, you can race spin on a budget and still have a lot of fun. The best way to experiennce spin racing and learn is on someone else's boat. That's what I did. I spent several years crewing before I bought Touche' and started my own racing program. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Dec 18, 2019, 7:37 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > You are correct regarding expense--spin racing just requires more of > everything--crew, boat, gear, sails, food, drinks, etc. > > I like to race in what my crew prefers and also in the most competitive > arena. Locally at least, the JAM fleet is not competitive enough for > us--except for those whose high ratings in light air make it impossible to > race fairly against them. > > Of course I like to win but more importantly I want race in a competitive > fleet, even if I come in last but close to my competitors. Winning most of > the time in our local JAM fleet is not as much fun as busting our > collective as...es to come in last among the best local racers. > > That's my story and I am sticking to it!! > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > C 36 XL/kcb > > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Tips for finding and keeping racing crew
But, Ed, a full party cup is a given! Laisser bon temps rouler! Dennis C. On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 5:23 PM Edward Levert via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I have to disagree with Dennis on the value of boat T shirts. We had 16 oz > styrofoam cups with the boat name and boat with sailplan printed on the > cups. Perhaps it was our age at the time but it always seemed the crew > couldn't care less what they were wearing if the cup was always full! On > light air Lake Pontchartrain we cleaned up with a 27 Mk I. > > Ed Levert > C 34 Briar Patch > New Orleans La > > On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 3:45 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> >> >> On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 5:17 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Keep it relaxed. Have fun. Focus more on the enjoyment than the >>> performance. After the crew starts showing up regularly, they'll start >>> wanting to be more competitive. It should come from them. >>> >>> Give out a bunch of T-shirts. When other folks see your crew on the >>> dock and on the boat in them they'll want to race with you to get one. I >>> get mine from https://www.maritimetees.com/. They're reasonably >>> priced and you can get your boat name/logo on them. >>> >>> As for the rant. Get off the helm!! Let them drive. Rotate >>> positions. Let them do their positions. Unless there is a safety issue, >>> suggest corrections later. >>> >>> We have a local boat where the owner always drives. He's not a great >>> driver. His attention is everywhere but driving. He pinches constantly. >>> (SLOW) Result: boat rarely sails well. Crews don't like to stay on a boat >>> that is a perpetual loser. >>> >>> Remember, there is a BIG difference between RACING a sailboat and >>> developing a racing sailboat PROGRAM. As the skipper, you have to assess >>> each crew member's strengths and weaknesses. Maximize their strengths. >>> Minimize their weaknesses. >>> >>> When I say each crew I mean it. I rarely drove Touche'. Make no >>> mistake, I'm a pretty good driver. But during our most successful years, >>> we had a guy who was better. The driver ONLY drove. I usually did >>> foredeck. Doing foredeck, I was idle a lot of the time. It worked out >>> well because I could focus on training, tweaking, encouraging crew to do >>> their finest. I could also focus on the boat and tactics. After each race >>> we popped beers and had a critique. >>> >>> Too often the owner tries to drive, call tactics, call sail trim, and >>> everything else. To me, that's not a recipe for success. >>> >>> We had a boat here where the skipper provided crew T-shirts. Great! >>> Until he collected them after each race. :( >>> >>> Again, it's a program. It's not an ego trip for the skipper/driver. >>> There's more than one boat in my area folks just don't want to sail on. >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> Touche' 35-1 #83 >>> Mandeville, LA >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> -- >> Sent from Gmail Mobile >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Tips for finding and keeping racing crew
Keep it relaxed. Have fun. Focus more on the enjoyment than the performance. After the crew starts showing up regularly, they'll start wanting to be more competitive. It should come from them. Give out a bunch of T-shirts. When other folks see your crew on the dock and on the boat in them they'll want to race with you to get one. I get mine from https://www.maritimetees.com/. They're reasonably priced and you can get your boat name/logo on them. As for the rant. Get off the helm!! Let them drive. Rotate positions. Let them do their positions. Unless there is a safety issue, suggest corrections later. We have a local boat where the owner always drives. He's not a great driver. His attention is everywhere but driving. He pinches constantly. (SLOW) Result: boat rarely sails well. Crews don't like to stay on a boat that is a perpetual loser. Remember, there is a BIG difference between RACING a sailboat and developing a racing sailboat PROGRAM. As the skipper, you have to assess each crew member's strengths and weaknesses. Maximize their strengths. Minimize their weaknesses. When I say each crew I mean it. I rarely drove Touche'. Make no mistake, I'm a pretty good driver. But during our most successful years, we had a guy who was better. The driver ONLY drove. I usually did foredeck. Doing foredeck, I was idle a lot of the time. It worked out well because I could focus on training, tweaking, encouraging crew to do their finest. I could also focus on the boat and tactics. After each race we popped beers and had a critique. Too often the owner tries to drive, call tactics, call sail trim, and everything else. To me, that's not a recipe for success. We had a boat here where the skipper provided crew T-shirts. Great! Until he collected them after each race. :( Again, it's a program. It's not an ego trip for the skipper/driver. There's more than one boat in my area folks just don't want to sail on. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List weight distribution and polar moment
I'm talking about the storages under the starboard side settee seat. You could put 13 gallon Plastimo flex tanks in 1, 2 or 3 of them. It wouldn't be very efficient as the hull curvature would probably prevent full expansion of the tanks. With the aft dinette under seat storage empty once you toss the original fresh water tank, you could install a start battery which would move weight forward and still be near center line albeit on the port side. See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvscGsxbnJIN203ZFk Touche's start battery, fresh water pump, accumulator and fresh water flex tank are all in that aft dinette storage. See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10hEjsx1byCRsy5EXWXJRe3yz7tFfpjjb Doesn't help move weight to port but it seems to be a better utilization of space. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 9:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am not sure what you mean about the 13 gallon tank – do you mean right > aft of the mast on port? Right now I have a big tank under the V-berth and > a smaller one aft on the port side just forward of the chart table. I need > to look into that. If I toss the aft tank I could get batteries in there > right up against the bulkhead very close to centerline. > > > > > > *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I* > > *www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>* > > > > > > > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List weight distribution and polar moment - now 35-1 AC install
Joe, If you decide to install an AC, get with me. My buddy and I have installed several. I can help. I have a big discharge grill in the bulkhead facing aft. It kicks butt! See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zKsuB3RRvXKwDvroCNPyUGejBHdXvZm3 The AC tucks into the aft half of the hanging locker. I can still hang foulies in the forward half. See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lWf8L9nDBbO4ywBHMV_YekwcRd7MiLJb Yes, a Y- splitter is what you need. It is shown at the top of the 6 inch ducting exiting the unit. I have a 3 or 4 inch round vent forward and the big grill in the bulkhead facing aft. It has a damper that proportions flow fore/aft. I can maintain mid 70's in the 90+ degree heat here. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 9:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am in on the air conditioning idea. My wife is less and less tolerant of > heat as time marches on and some nights it is over 90 degrees air temp and > mid 80s water temps past midnight L. I figure I would use a Y fitting > and vent cold air forward and aft with bulkhead vents. > > I am not sure what you mean about the 13 gallon tank – do you mean right > aft of the mast on port? Right now I have a big tank under the V-berth and > a smaller one aft on the port side just forward of the chart table. I need > to look into that. If I toss the aft tank I could get batteries in there > right up against the bulkhead very close to centerline. > > > > > > *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I* > > *www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>* > > > > > > > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List weight distribution and polar moment
Do what I did, put a nice CruisAir 16KBTU air conditioner in the hanging locker. Moved center of weight forward and starboard. :) The easiest thing is to put one or two flex tanks for your fresh water under the settee or on the floor of the hanging locker. Then toss the OEM fresh water tank. You might get a Plastimo 18031 13 gallon tank in the forward and center storage under the settee. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 9:08 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > While we are talking about weights, something that drives me NUTS is > everything heavy on my boat is on the port side. Batteries are on port. The > midships water tank is on port. The largest storage area below is on port. > > Has anyone with a 35 MKI I figured out how to move heavy stuff to > starboard? > > Speaking of weight, has anyone moved their batteries forward to reduce > polar moment? Some $$$ in copper involved, but I am tempted. > > > > *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I* > > *www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com>* > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List listed weights
Absolutely! To the pound. Hahahaha! /S Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 16, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > wrote: > > So does the 35 MK I really weigh 10,500 pounds? > > Joe > > Coquina > > > >> On 12/16/2019 4:02 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote: >> Sometimes marketing people adjust specifications to sell boats. I would >> call it lying, but sales people call it marketing. I'm a person who would >> pour over data and specifications to make a buying decision and the sales >> guys know us and simply change the manufacturing specs to sell product. As >> a resuIt, I never believe manufacturers' specs. >> >> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R >> >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches
Joel, Not that I know of. Touche's bilge switch is high up in a bulkhead in a secure place where nothing will fall on or contact the back of the switch or the wires. The push on connectors are Ancor and fit tightly. The wires are secured in a manner that there is and will be no strain on the connectors. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:15 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that > does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors? I've zip-tied so they are not > likely to get pulled off, but it is still only a friction fitting. > If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump! > > -- > Joel > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List My outboards.. - fuel stories
Now that's funny! Dennis C. On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 11:55 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Not Coast Guard approved, but I used to do some interesting trips on a 19’ > Cape Dory Typhoon, with an English Seagull outboard. We used a couple one > gal red plastic fuel cans, and then filled a couple bicycle water bottles > with fuel, for daily use. It was easier to squirt in a little fuel when > needed, than fight even the one gal. fuel tanks which always made a mess. > Epic fun trips on the old boat. . . > > Pulled into Friday Harbor early, and Arnold marched into the office and > announced he’d be filling his starboard tanks, slapping down his gold amex > card. The fuel boy came trotting down to the boat, just as I put the one > gal. tanks on the dock, glared at me and said fill them yourself! > > Ha! > > > ___ > Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis > s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II > Shilshole / Seattle > > > On Dec 16, 2019, at 9:33 48AM, randal johnston via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > The brand is “No Spill”. Real mixed reviews on amazon. Seems the company > has been bought out, newer products > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List My outboards..
Doug, What brand is it? My beef is mainly with the ones where you have to push the spout to pour. Dennis C. On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:11 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I didn’t think this was going to be a controversial topic, but I have a > “No-Spill” (that brand) gas can I use for my snowblower/lawn mower and I > think it is great. I have had it for years and don’t spill any fuel using > it. You can control the flow rate by how far you push the button. I am > planning to get the smaller (1.25 gal) version for my dinghy/outboard since > I invariably spill some gas filling the outboard tank with the bellows > style and always end up with fuel on my hands in the process. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Dec 16, 2019, at 9:47 AM, David Risch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Got them all running myself. Great learning process and a > heck-uva-lot-cheaper than sending out to an “expert”. > > For the little one with an internal tank. Re-filling fuel is always a > messy process. Thinking of plumbing in an external tank or purchasing a > “Spill-Proof” gas can. > > Any experience with either? Thanks! > > *David F. Risch* > *(401) 419-4650* > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List My outboards..
I HATE most of the new "spill proof" cans. They're a PIA to operate. Sorry. Hot button of mine. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 8:47 AM David Risch via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Got them all running myself. Great learning process and a > heck-uva-lot-cheaper than sending out to an “expert”. > > > > For the little one with an internal tank. Re-filling fuel is always a > messy process. Thinking of plumbing in an external tank or purchasing a > “Spill-Proof” gas can. > > > > Any experience with either? Thanks! > > > > *David F. Risch* > > *(401) 419-4650* > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Bilge cycle counter
I, like many of us, am sometimes off the boat for days/weeks. I'd like to track the bilge cycles to indicate a problem. There are several options. 1. Buy a nice purpose built bilge cycle counter like the one from Water Witch for $80 or so 2. Replace my existing bilge switch with the Watch Witch ePanel switch/counter for $180 3. Buy a cheap non-marine 12 vdc counter for $5 The Water Witch counters provide 14 day, 7 day and 24 hour counts. That could be more helpful the cheap unit's single count from when you left the boat. I like the more expensive options but at the same time. I guess I have 3 questions. 1. Do any of you use a cycle counter and do you find it helpful? 2. How would one wire the cheap counter? I suspect you just parallel it off the back of the switch across the "auto" out and the ground. Each time the float switch activates the counter would see voltage and count. 3. Does anyone have a better simple elegant solution? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments
Gulf Yachting Association PHRF committee meets quarterly utilizing a board of 5 local handicappers. They review new boats, rating revision requests, by-laws, etc. Pretty much everything PHRF. They also conduct an annual review. Here's the link to all the info. http://www.gya.org/?page_id=306 Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 4:37 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Well Lee, since you bring up PHRF reviews, let me ask you listers, how > often do your clubs or RSAs conduct rating reviews and adjustments? > > The introduction in “the book” ( > https://www.ussailing.org/competition/offshore/phrf/phrf-handicaps/) says > under heading "Considerations when using this listing to determine a > handicap by averaging fleet data” that "After the initial handicap is > chosen and the boat is raced, an empirical analysis of performance may > permit a more refined estimate of its speed potential.” And a review of > https://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/USPHRF-Fleets-1.pdf shows > that most clubs derive handicaps from “the book,” then review and adjust > based on local experience. > > So, how many of y’all do that? > > Cheers, > Randy > > On Dec 12, 2019, at 11:20 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Dear Sir, > > RE: Randy Stafford S/V Grenadin C 30 MK I #79 LISTED as Hull #7 > > I have put in a request for an immediate PHRF review of your boat. With > over 70 shipyard refinements, it’s clear now, why your boat is so fast, and > only right that your rating reflect the changes you failed to document. I > expect the board will want to question you very carefully about the > additional changes to your boat over and above the documented 1972 norms. > I have suggested that the penalty not be limited to just changing a PHRF > number, but the monetary fine should reflect the price of the current boat > you have chosen to race. Perhaps if you raced a newer more expensive boat, > you would be disinclined to perpetrate this excessive winning streak, which > is depressing both the local fleet and the attendance of future sailors to > the sport. You should hear from the PHRF board by the end of the month. > > Regretfully, Lee > Yea, cold and wet in Seattle > > > On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:31 09AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Listers- > > When I was buying my 30 MK I (HIN 30007972) four years ago, I came to the > conclusion she was hull number 7 laid up in September 1972, I think based > on this old post: > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2012-April/044412.html > . > > Meanwhile a discussion arose recently in the Facebook C Owners Group > where a guy asked how to decode HIN 30002672. I emailed Rob Ball hoping > for clarification, and Rob referred me to Rob MacLachlan of South Shore > Yachts. Rob MacLachlan said definitively I have hull #79, not hull #7. So > the HIN format C used before standardization on November 1st 1972 > apparently didn’t include any digits indicating the month in which the hull > was laid up. > > I’ll be damned, I said. All this time I thought I had hull #7. > > Rick Bushie on this list owns 30 MK I hull #1, and his HIN plate says > simply “30-1 1971N”. > Brian Buttigieg in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #5, he says, but > hasn’t posted his HIN yet. > Jack Rousseau in the Facebook group owned 30 MK I hull #8 and said it was > made in 1971. > Sean Dillon in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #14 and says it’s a > 1971 boat. > Ed Levert on this list owned hull #19 and thought it was a 1971 boat. > The owners of HINs 30002672, 30005972, and 30009472 have also been heard > from here or in the Facebook group. > Steve Guiney in the Facebook group owns hull #123 and his HIN is > CCY301231172 (CCY was later used by the Rhode Island factory but it didn’t > open until February 1976) > > It seems clear that C changed 30 MK I HIN formats at least twice over > the production run. And I shall change my email signature according to > what I’ve learnt. > > Cheers, > Randy Stafford > S/V Grenadine > C 30 MK I #79 > Ken Caryl, CO > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send con
Re: Stus-List C 2020 Gulf-Coast Rendezvous (?)
Ouch! I will be skiing in the Rockies Jan 22 to Feb 24 +/-. I really wanted to attend. :( Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 4:05 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers, > > Thank you for the survey results — and based on them, I am considering the > following, and would appreciate any input you may have before I start > solidifying: > > The dates I’m leaning towards are February 7-9 and the best possible > location would be at Marina Jack’s in the middle of downtown Sarasota. > Marina Jack has a restaurant on site, plenty of deep-water slips (with > floating docks), a wealth of marine services, a meeting space, onsite > restaurant and more. It’s also right at the foot of famous downtown > Sarasota, a fabulous walking area filled with shops, galleries, cafes, > bars, restaurants, a comedy club, an opera house, and so much more. > > There are also hotels nearby, and I’m confident I can obtain for us a > lower group rate at the Hyatt Regency just a few blocks from the marina. > And, this is all a ten-minute cab ride from the SRQ airport, for those who > would want to fly in. > > I’m thinking arrivals on Friday, followed by a group pot-luck dinner on > Friday night. On Saturday, we can do a C boat show, possibly have Stu or > someone come in for a seminar/talk, have a group dinner at a local > restaurant (or bus everyone to my club), followed by a pub crawl. Then > departures on Sunday. > > The average daytime high for that time of year will be in the low 70s > (insert my new catch phrase here) with overnight lows in the mid 50s. I > think we’d get at least five-six (or more) C to attend, including the > Enterprise. > > I now welcome your thoughts (even Risch’s) as to timing, if you’d consider > attending (by boat or by land), and what it would take to make it a > must-see C Rendezvous. > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Japanese hand saw
Seeing the reference to the Japanese hand saw for the centerboard issue I have had a Japanese hand saw for decades. Awesome tool. I bought it when I lived in Japan. For those who aren't familiar with them, the teeth face opposite of European/American hand saws. It cuts when you PULL it. I use it more than my traditional "push" saw. Takes a bit of getting used to but once you do, you'll love it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Navtec Rebuild or?
New seal kits can be found online. Just make sure you get the correct one. They're a bit pricey so shop around. eBay has a couple. If you disassemble it and find it's just the top seal, take the old seal and the unit to a reputable hydraulic shop. They can probably match it or fix it. It's just a hydraulic ram. Any shop that fixes rams for dozers, Bobcats, etc. might be able to handle it. If you want the absolute bombproof reliable fix, send it to Lew Townsend in Seattle (206.498.7282). He is the accepted expert on repairing them. Cost you about $350-400 but it will be done right. Lew was going on a 3 week cruise when I needed mine repaired. I sent it to a "Navtec" repair shop in Texas. They installed a new seal kit but it loosens ever so slowly over time. Wish I'd waited on Lew. Finally, when you reinstall it, get a black rubber washer from a big box building supply store and slide it down the shaft so it sits on top of the cylinder. It will protect the top seal from UV which is the most common failure mode for these things. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 1:38 PM Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Everyone talking about backstay tension reminded me of a project I was > looking to do this winter; rebuild the backstay tensioner. It's the > original navtec one with the handle and guage built-in. There's always a > bit of oil on the ram when it's extended so I'm guessing just needs a new > seal. > > 1) Is there a recommended place to get these serviced since Navtec is out > of business? I'm in Chicago so hopefully something in the midwest. > > 2) I'm relatively handy, is it something that can be DIY? If so any idea > where to get parts? I could care less about the guage (like others I have a > marked batten) > > 3) If I wanted to to the replace route any recommendations on > manufacturers (there are several) and sizes? > > thanks in advance, > Luke > 1985, 35-3 Zella > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Navtec backstay psi - now headsail & mainsail shape
On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 8:50 AM Paul via CnC-List wrote: > Brings a good question. How do I know my headstay is set properly? I've > always wondered and never known an answer. How do I know that my main sail > is optimum shape as a result? > > Paul Hood > C '81 VERY complicated question and definitely a new thread. No simple answer. Answer depends on your rig, the cut and age of your sails and lots of factors. Over the years, I've added pre-bend to Touche's rig by tensioning the forward lower shrouds (not possible with inline shrouds), added 5 inches to the headstay, adjusted the turnbuckle on the roller furler, etc. in an effort to optimize headsail and mainsail shaping. The reconfigurations came from years of sailing, racing, reading and discussions with sailmakers and fellow racers. Having said that, there are general suggestions that may apply. If you haven't read North U's book Racing Trim by Bill Gladstone, it's a good start. It covers rig tuning, sail shape and lots of topics pertinent to your question. I'll let others chime in for a while and see what's said. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 44 Navtec backstay psi
Agree with Josh. Just tight enough so it doesn't move much if someone grabs it. The lens on the pressure gauge on mine is so discolored and crazed I can't read the psi anyway. It's a $300 fix. I have a dinghy batten taped to it with colored tape marks. Green (light breeze), yellow (moderate breeze), red (heavy breeze), black (oh, @&%$, we're going to DIE!). I leave it at the bottom of the green. I'm guessing it's about 500 psi at the dock. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Dec 2, 2019 at 1:51 PM Patrick Gateley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi all, > > We just had our backstay adjuster rebuilt and am wondering what PSI we > should keep it at while moored? > > Thanks > > Kari and Patrick Gateley > 1988 C 44' "Odessa" > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 2020 C Gulf Coast Rendezvous (?)
Edd, Did you get participation? We want to see the really, really stupid responses. Dennis C. On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 9:21 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers, > > To further explore the possibility of running a 2020 C Rendezvous in > sunny Florida, please take a few moments to complete this survey: > > https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/HF2XKBQ > > All of your answers will be kept strictly confidential (unless they are > really, really stupid and deserving of public ridicule). > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Deck painting
Absolutely practical. Would be my choice in fact. In my opinion, gelcoat will greatly outlast paint. Spray on the smooth areas then double-tape and roll on gel coat mixed with colloidal silica for the non-skid areas. If the guy knows his stuff, go for it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Nov 30, 2019 at 6:58 AM James Hesketh via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Getting ready to paint the decks, cabin and cockpit on my 26. > > I've done most of the prep -- deck-core repair in a few places, resealed > the toe-rail and hatches, removed all hardware, etc. But I want to hire > someone for the final sanding and painting, and have been looking for a > good painter. > > One of the painters I've spoken to has offered to put down a fresh cote of > gelcoat instead of paint. I've never heard of anyone doing that; it might > be nice but I don't know if its really practical. > > Thoughts . . . > > Jim Hesketh > Whisper C 26 > Miami, FL > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing
There are several products made to spray on the back of rugs to keep them from slipping. Search Amazon for "rug non skid spray". Worth a try. Dennis C. On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 12:11 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > If you must add non skid to your sole (and I thoroughly disapprove!), the > best stuff is an Awl Grip product called GripTex. It is clear spheres so it > blends better than walnut shells, which appear black underfoot. GripTex is > also not as sharp as shells so there is less wear on your gear and toes. > Andy > > Andrew Burton > 139 Tuckerman Ave > Middletown, RI > USA02842 > > www.burtonsailing.com > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > > On Nov 27, 2019, at 12:59, Spencer Johnson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the rugs to > see how easily they move around. > IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just let me > know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar that I will > never use. I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than cover a typical > cabin sole... > > Spencer Johnson > 84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165 > Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List delrin washer
Last time I did one I got a Delrin disc from mcmaster and took it to a local plastics machine shop. However, take a look at this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-DELRIN-ACETAL-Plastic-WASHERS-SPACERS-made-to-your-QUANTITY-SPECS/192495207830?hash=item2cd19bc596:g:1J8AAOSwdVFaxsHK Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 8:00 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Any suggestions of source(s) for delrin washer 3 ½ OD, 1 5/8 ID, 1/8 > thk. Google is no help > > > > TIA > > > > > > John and Maryann > > Legacy III > > 1982 C 34 > > Noank, CT > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Trimming
The sheet leads outboard of the forward shroud and inboard of the upper shroud. Dennis On Wed, Nov 13, 2019, 7:29 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks! Do you sheet inboard of the forward shroud usually, or does it > depend how close to the wind you are? > > It looks like your aft track is further outboard than mine too, so this > must be a mk1 vs mk2 difference, as those positions have factory access > panels in the liner. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Trimming
Shawn, See: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsbTVOZUJqUGN6Sjg/view?usp=drivesdk and https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsaEhUREJ0LXRDUTg/view?usp=drivesdk That's the track to which I trimTouche's 95% jib and the teak cover for the fasteners. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated
Want some fun reading? Google "GEICO complaints" or "Firestone complaints". No wonder GEICO advertises somuch. DennisC. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing
Iinstalled PlasDek on a deck hatch on a trawler years ago. See: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU/view?usp=drivesdk It was pretty straightforward. For interiors look at PlasTeak. www.plasteak.com There are several instructional videos online. If I ever put a teak/holly sole on Touche' it will bePlasTeak or equivalent. Dennis C. Touche' 83 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Nov 9, 2019, 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape. There are areas where > the holly stripes and are gone or pulling away. I am considering what to > do and have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux > teak/holley covering over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that > discussion anywhere in the archives. Has anyone done that? Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Florida rendezvous
I would welcome a Florida rendezvous but not in February. I'm out in the Rockies skiing for most of that month. Early March would be good. Although I live in Louisiana, Touche' is in Pensacola. It's only a 6-7 hour drive from Pensacola to Tampa. A 7 hour drive is nothing compared to my upcoming 40 hour Louisiana/Colorado/Jackson Hole/Salt Lake/Aspen, CO/Louisiana ski trip drive. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing
Jim, As others have said, the "conventional wisdom" here on the list is NOT to pull the toe rail. It is also the collective opinion that overtightening the bolts will squeeze out the original butyl which may result in leakage. Many of us have simply tightened, but not overtightened the fasteners. Some have removed the occasional troublesome fastener, added butyl and re-installed. I snugged up Touche's toe rail fasteners when I first bought the boat 20 years ago. Then I ran multiple beads of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure down the inboard toe rail/deck interface. It's a milky liquid which easily penetrates the joint then cures. When I first started, I put on 6-8 applications. This can be done in a day or two since the stuff cures fairly quickly. Over the next few years, It was part of my spring maintenance to add a bead or two. Now I do it every 2-3 years. Touche's toe rail leakage is negligible. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Universal Diesel harness upgrade
My read is that the shunt is in the ammeter itself. Thus all the current must travel to/from the alternator through the ammeter to the user(s). Most ammeters these days use an external shunt and only small signal wires to/from the ammeter. The recommended fix looks fine. He's a knowledgeable guy with lots of good advice. If you want an ammeter in the engine panel, swap it out for one with an external shunt. Also, do you want to measure the amps from the alternator or amps being used by the boat? Two different things. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 4:04 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello from already snowy Michigan. > Seems the 1990 M-35 I have for power in my boat is, well, not really > designed well in the wiring department. I have read stuff describing it as > "dangerous" to "fatal" and worse. There appear to be two related issues: > First, that the harness is not capable of the loads to and from the > alternator, ammeter and starter, (plus glow plugs) and two, that the light > blue 'trailer harness' connectors fail and burn. I've read several posts > at different websites, and a great fix explained here: > https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/ > > I wonder who on our expert list has tackled this problem. I am > considering fixing what I have, or purchasing a new gauge panel and all > wiring. You can do that from Catalina Direct and others. > Any experience or opinions from fellow Universal owners? > > > > *Chuck Saur* > > *Daydream C 37+ * > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Who made our spars in the ‘70s?
Klacko Spars made the mast for my 1971 35-1. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 7:22 PM Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Does anyone know who would have made the mast and boom for my ‘76 C 33? > TIA. > > BLHickson > Flight Risk 33-1 > Chas., SC > > > > Barbara L. Hickson > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS> > > On Monday, November 4, 2019, 11:13 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Water freezing characteristic (Josh Muckley) > 2. Re: Compass (Josh Muckley) > 3. Re: Compass (Matthew L. Wolford) > 4. Re: Compass (Matthew L. Wolford) > 5. Re: Compass (Della Barba, Joe) > 6. Re: Compass (Dreuge) > > > -- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 09:38:53 -0500 > From: Josh Muckley > To: "C List" > Subject: Re: Stus-List Water freezing characteristic > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > For anyone who is curious about the thermodynamic properties of water. > https://images.app.goo.gl/vRbfXaeYY1aXb3Zz8 > > Josh > > > > > On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 9:08 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Josh, > > > > Saw your comment about water. I was taught that water freezes at 32 > > degrees but goes through a morph around 26 degrees where it expands > > dramatically in a one time shock event. That's when water pipes burst. > > The expansion is a shock load to copper pipes which will fish mouth open > at > > a weak spot, usually in the sidewall of tubing, rarely in a fitting. > Steel > > pipes behave differently usually pushing out a weaker cast fitting. My > > understanding is that as the temperature lowers, the ice does not expand > > any further. Is that about right or is there more to it? > > > > Chuck S > > > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > -- next part -- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20191104/73859fa8/attachment-0001.html > > > > -- > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 09:45:07 -0500 > From: Josh Muckley > To: "C List" > Subject: Re: Stus-List Compass > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Now the seals are a little bit different story. They could contract in > accordance with the normally expected properties of other normal > substances. Naturally this could cause leaks. I was thinking that the > fear was frozen liquid expanding, causing a cracked lens. > > Josh > > > On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 9:35 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > In 2006, my boat was trucked from Wisconsin. After launch, I noticed the > > Ritchie compass was not reacting normally (slow to adjust to changes in > > direction). Took it to have it checked out. Repair guy took it apart > and > > replaced a broken spring (he said, I really don't know what he did) and > he > > refilled with mineral oil. Compass has worked fine since. > > > > He advised to remove the compass during winter layup as the freezing > temps > > here could possibly damage the seals. I have not removed the compass > > during the winter and so far there does not appear to be any adverse > > issue(s). I felt removing the compass provided more chances of a mishap > > (like me dropping it to the ground) than leaving it on the boat. Since > > most, if not all, of my boats neighbors did not remove them, neither > would > > I. > > > > I read somewhere that the freezin
Re: Stus-List Compass
This is a good explanation: http://www.iapws.org/faq1/freeze.html Now if only someone can explain why Scotch over ice seems to always disappear entirely leaving only small cubes of ice. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 3:09 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Sorry Paul, just to be clean you are not challenging the property to which > referred but just the name, correct? I didn't referance the internet for > the proper name of the property. What the correct name? > > Josh > > On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 11:13 AM Dreuge via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Yikes! As a physicist, I just have to cry out and say that this >> statement is wrong. >> >> Yes, water is unique in that it expands as it changes phase from liquid >> to solid. >> But the expansion occurs because of the laws of thermodynamics not >> despite it. >> >> >> - >> Paul E. >> 1981 C Landfall 38 >> S/V Johanna Rose >> Fort Walton Beach, FL >> >> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ >> >> On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:35 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >> >> Remember that water is defies the >> natural laws of thermodynamics in that it gets progressively less dense as >> its temperature departs from 4?C. Most substances (oil) actually shrink >> as >> they get colder. >> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s)
Perdido Key, Orange Beach, Alabama, Key West, Florida or French Quarter, New Orleans. :) How about here? https://cariberesort.com/ Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 1, 2019, at 4:10 PM, George Cone via CnC-List > wrote: > > Tell us when and where, we’ll buy the air tickets now!! > George Cone > > From: CnC-List On Behalf Of detroito91 via > CnC-List > Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 5:05 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: detroito91 > Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s) > > Great idea. Let's go there instead > Jim Schwartz > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > Original message > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Date: 11/1/19 4:43 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s) > > Hey Edd, > > If you plan a winter Florida Renezvous, I might fly there to enjoy the nice > warm weather and I bet other Northeast C'ers would too. > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md > > > On November 1, 2019 at 2:45 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List > wrote: > > All, > > It is true, I have relocated from the chilly Northeast to sunny Florida — and > therefore will not be planning any further Northeast Rendezvouses. > > Maybe 2020 needs a Southeast Rendezvous….. h….. > > As for the northeast, I suppose David Risch could take up that mantle again, > but be warned, he has a habit of not showing up. > > In all seriousness though, even though I many be a thousand miles away, I’d > be happy to assist any rendezvous planning. If there are decent hotels > nearby, I may even fly to one or two. > > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 1, 2019, at 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Dennis, > > With Edd moving to Florida I'm unaware of anybody having organized the 2019 > N.E. Rendezvous and I have heard no mention of a 2020. Had I heard of one, I > would have certainly taken it into consideration when choosing a date. That > being said, I apologize to the appropriate party if the last weekend in > September interferes with the NE Rendezvous. > > > All the best, > > Josh Muckley > S /V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Fri, Nov 1, 2019, 12:09 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > I like it. Perhaps the Northeast Rendezvous could be the weekend before or > after? If so, the Admiral and I would be tempted to attend both with a week > of land touring in between. > > Baltimore is a good location. The Admiral and I spent a couple nights at the > Inner Harbor after last year's rendezvous. Touring the old ships was pretty > cool. > > I just wish there were enough listers on the northern Gulf Coast for a > rendezvous here. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 5:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I'm pretty sure that that is sufficient for a final established date and > location. I'm making the call. > > THERE IT IS FOLKS! THE OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE 2020 MID-ATLANTIC C > RENDEZVOUS! TO BE HELD ON THE LAST WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER (25, 26, 27) IN > BALTIMORE MARYLAND AT ANCHORAGE MARINA! > > > More to follow, > > Josh Muckley > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E
I bought a K universal clamp on for my Universal 25XPB. Much cheaper than $130. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 1, 2019, at 6:58 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > wrote: > > Actually, the Beta diesels I’ve seen all have paper air cleaner elements. I > had thought about putting one on my Universal M35B (which starts life as the > same Kubota engine as the 35 HP Beta) but the housing and element was over > $130. I guess I’ll just stick with what’s on the Universal – a metal cylinder > stuffed with course steel wool and covered with a foam sleeve. Or maybe I’ll > price check an air cleaner with the local Kubota tractor dealer. > > Rick Brass > Washington, NC > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill > Coleman via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 10:58 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Bill Coleman > Subject: Re: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E > > Interestingly, I have never seen a real air filter on a sailboat engine. > My original Perkins has a screen over the intake that would hold back large > bees, but not flies, the Nanni had a neat air silencer that made the engine > quiet, but would certainly let large bees in. The current Yanmar has what > looks like household screen, certainly no paper or foam. I guess > manufacturers must not believe there is much of any concern of contamination > out on the water, and through a small engine compartment. > It was interesting seeing the difference in the first and second change of > oil with the boat and my Kubota Lawn mower, both the same age, with nearly > identical engines, (but the mower with only 3 cylinders). > The first and second boat oil looked nearly pristine when changed, and the > Mower oil was black like you would see in a truck. > Even with a good air filter on the mower, it cannot escape that filthy > environment. > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. > via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 4:25 PM > To: CnClist > Cc: Dennis C. > Subject: Re: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E > > Measure the OD of the intake. K sells universal clamp on air cleaners for > various diameter intakes. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 2:31 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I can't seem to find an aftermarket K or other high performance filter > (which I would prefer instead of relying on foam). > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s)
Josh, I hadn't heard anything about a NE rendezvous either. Hence my pitch to piggyback them. I'm glad you jumped out there and firmed up dates for the Mid-Atlantic one. One bookend is set. Dennis C. On Fri, Nov 1, 2019 at 12:21 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Dennis, > > With Edd moving to Florida I'm unaware of anybody having organized the > 2019 N.E. Rendezvous and I have heard no mention of a 2020. Had I heard of > one, I would have certainly taken it into consideration when choosing a > date. That being said, I apologize to the appropriate party if the last > weekend in September interferes with the NE Rendezvous. > > > All the best, > > Josh Muckley > S /V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Fri, Nov 1, 2019, 12:09 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I like it. Perhaps the Northeast Rendezvous could be the weekend before >> or after? If so, the Admiral and I would be tempted to attend both with a >> week of land touring in between. >> >> Baltimore is a good location. The Admiral and I spent a couple nights at >> the Inner Harbor after last year's rendezvous. Touring the old ships was >> pretty cool. >> >> I just wish there were enough listers on the northern Gulf Coast for a >> rendezvous here. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 5:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> I'm pretty sure that that is sufficient for a final established date and >>> location. I'm making the call. >>> >>> THERE IT IS FOLKS! THE OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE 2020 MID-ATLANTIC >>> C RENDEZVOUS! TO BE HELD ON THE LAST WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER (25, 26, 27) >>> IN BALTIMORE MARYLAND AT ANCHORAGE MARINA! >>> >>> >>> More to follow, >>> >>> Josh Muckley >>> >>>> >>>> >>> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s)
I like it. Perhaps the Northeast Rendezvous could be the weekend before or after? If so, the Admiral and I would be tempted to attend both with a week of land touring in between. Baltimore is a good location. The Admiral and I spent a couple nights at the Inner Harbor after last year's rendezvous. Touring the old ships was pretty cool. I just wish there were enough listers on the northern Gulf Coast for a rendezvous here. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 5:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I'm pretty sure that that is sufficient for a final established date and > location. I'm making the call. > > THERE IT IS FOLKS! THE OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE 2020 MID-ATLANTIC C > RENDEZVOUS! TO BE HELD ON THE LAST WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER (25, 26, 27) IN > BALTIMORE MARYLAND AT ANCHORAGE MARINA! > > > More to follow, > > Josh Muckley > >> >> > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E
Measure the OD of the intake. K sells universal clamp on air cleaners for various diameter intakes. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 2:31 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > I can't seem to find an aftermarket K or other high performance filter > (which I would prefer instead of relying on foam). > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?
Josh, For the record, I'm betting your Xantrex was a newer TrueCharge 2 not a TrueCharge. Big difference. I have a TrueCharge in Touche' and a spare. They're pretty reliable. The original has been working well for nearly 20 years. When I was a marine repair guy, I installed several of the newer Truecharge 2's. After being called back a couple times due to failures, I quit installing them and switched to chargers by Promariner, Guest or Blue Sea Systems. My boat repair colleagues had similar experiences with the TrueCharge 2's. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 9:29 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Where the 120v comes into the unit I recall a 10amp automotive fuse. When > my Xantrex died it gave very similar symptoms. > > Josh Muckley > > >> For unknown reasons I have blown a Xantrex True Charge 40 amp(modern). >> Refunded under warranty. Could have been bad luck but I'm leaning towards >> the idea that it is bad engineering. Under the exact same conditions I've >> never had a problem with the P-Nautic. >> >> Josh Muckley >> >> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Another Fuel Mystery
Internal short in the ignition coil. Not uncommon issue with A4's when you run them a while. Coil gets extremely hot and shorts out. Cools a bit and it restarts. If you ever run it long again (can't imagine that happening in Chatfield) CAREFULLY put your hand on the coil. If it's too hot to touch, that could be the problem. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 30, 2019 at 5:02 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Inspired by Tom’s post. > > I have an A4. On Friday afternoon I filled the fuel tank. I motor so > little on my lake - generally just in and out of the marina - that I can go > a whole season one one tank. Case in point, she took 12 gallons Friday in > a 20-gallon tank, and was in the water five months used multiple times > weekly. I added lead substitute and stabilizer as usual. > > When hauling out Saturday morning, I had to keep station near the launch > ramp for an hour waiting my turn. In the middle of that, my A4 just quit. > It’s never done that before, except a few times two years ago when I had a > frozen petcock restricting fuel flow. > > After a bit of cranking and choking she fired back up again, and ran > smoothly for the rest of the station-keeping, haul-out, and winterizing on > the hard. I wrote it off to a temporary fuel flow issue, but I have no > idea why it might have happened. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > Randy Stafford > S/V Grenadine > C 30 MK I #7 > Ken Caryl, CO > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fuel Mystery
The inner and outer liners of fill hose on Touche' when I bought it were separated. The outer liner was bulged out. Could be just as true that your inner liner is bulged inward. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 30, 2019 at 5:05 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > This year my tank started to fill rather slowly. Trying to fill faster > resulted in fuel backing up in the hose. I haven’t gotten to it yet but > I’ll replace the fill and vent hoses to see if that cures it. > > Al Liles > SV Elendil > C 37/40 > Vancouver BC > > > On Oct 30, 2019, at 1:37 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > The bottom of our tank is not flat, it slopes downhill a bit toward the > pickup tube at the front so boat trim would have to change a lot to affect > this (on our 37/40). > > I can confirm I have put up to 44 US Gallons in our tank when it was > completely empty. > > On your tank, does your pickup tube end far short of the bottom somehow? > Ours is quite close to the bottom so we depend on the Racor to separate the > crap and water out that would be left on the bottom of the tank by a > shorter pickup tube. > > Ken H. > > On Wed, 30 Oct 2019 at 16:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> The pickup tube is near the forward part of the tank. Have you done >> anything to change the pitch of the boat? If you removed bow weight or >> added stern weight or both, this could change the pitch such that fuel >> collects further from the pickup tube. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 2:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> I have a puzzle. I was on my way to fill up last trip out for a nice >>> weekend rendezvous with out club when I ran out of fuel. Fortunately, I >>> was close enough to our club in the inner harbor. I dropped the dinghy and >>> ran to shore to get a gerry can of diesel. When I finally got to the gas >>> dock in Tacoma she only took 24.5 G of diesel. I made sure that the filler >>> tube was open and even intentionally overfilled it to make sure the vent >>> was clear (than god for my catch can!) I made sure the tank was topped off. >>> >>> I have never trusted by gauge as it would show empty when there was 1/2 >>> a tank left. I used to chart all time and distance religiously in my old >>> boat and did the same on Alera initially. Then I realized that unlike out >>> old 35 MK1 Alera had a functioning Hobbes meter. So over the last few >>> seasons I got lax and instead of copious logging I just take a picture of >>> the Hobbes meter at every fill up. Made sense and eliminated the problem >>> of accounting for sailing time on long runs. Based on the Hobbes meter >>> reading from the last fill up the engine ran 26 hrs. Very consistent with >>> my established burn rate of 0.9 GpHr. >>> >>> I started to suspect that maybe the PO had replaced the original 40G >>> tank with a smaller one. However, when I checked my log book I have had >>> several occasions where the fill up was more than30G.. Not many, but more >>> than one or two over the 25G mark. >>> >>> The rancor is clean and aside from need to bleed the system down to the >>> injectors to get her started after the stall out, no air leaks in the fuel >>> system. Motoring in flat seas, so sloshing fuel is not it either. >>> >>> Have at it C sleuths...I am at a loss. >>> >>> >>> Tom B >>> >>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤. >>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia >>> SV Alera >>> C 37+/40 >>> Vashon Island WA >>> (206) 463-9200 >>> www.sv-alera.com >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> >> On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 2:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> I have a puzzle. I was on my way to fill up last trip out for a nice >>> weekend rendezvous with out club when I ran out of fuel. Fortunately, I >>> was close enough to our club in the inner harbor. I dropped the dinghy and >&
Re: Stus-List Starting An Engine with Battery Charger Connected?
I also do it all the time. Essentially the alternator and charger are in parallel. They shouldn't be competing or conflicting. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 30, 2019 at 9:35 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers, > > I’m seeing conflicting opinions on the web and would like to know from the > collected wisdom of the group. > > Is it OK or not OK to start your engine while your battery charger is > running? > > I was surprised to see some people say it is not, as people have been > jump-starting their car engines for decades, but am interested in seeing > what you all have to say on this. > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL > > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Boat Selling Tips
Try: https://www.sailboatlistings.com/sailboats_for_sale/ https://www.sailboatowners.com/classified2/adsmanager.php https://www.sailingtexas.com/cboats.html (not just for Texas boats) Finally, one thing that tremendously helped a friend sell his old trawler: owner financing. He took 30% down, had the buyer sign a very strong lien and, most importantly, required the purchaser to list him (the seller) as first insured on the insurance with notification by the insurance company if the insurance was cancelled or premiums not paid or some such assurance. A condition of the lien was the boat reverted back to the seller in the event insurance was dropped. A second friend with a very similar trawler had his sit with no interest for many, many months. He wanted cash and would not offer owner finance. Your boat is 33 years old. Many financing entities won't issue a loan for a boat that old. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 9:11 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > *Hi guys,* > > *I’ve been lurking for quite some time, but still have an interest for > this great group. Having purchased a larger cruising boat last year > (Bavaria 44), I have tried for over a year to sell my 1986 C Mk-III. I > initially tried to sell it myself. I listed it on Craigslist, advertised > on the FSBO web site (for sale by owner), and spread the word through my > local sailors.* > > *When summer turned to fall and no action, I enlisted a reputable local > broker to list my boat. After listing it on Yacht World for over a year, > we have yet to have a single buyer interested enough to even come take a > look at it. * > > *The boat is well equipped for racing and cruising and comes with a ton of > equipment. I’ve dropped the price over $10K and still no interest. What > does it take to sell a boat these days? Any suggestions would be > appreciated.* > > *Thanks,* > > *Jake Brodersen* > > *1986 C 35 Mk-III* > > *“Midnight Mistress”* > > *Hampton VA* > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat
Keep a small buoy to attach to the anchor rode always. That will mark the location of of your anchor rode so the intoxicated rednecks in their party barges can straddle it as they wave drunkenly at you while they do it. Yes, true story. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 16, 2019 at 7:09 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Addendum to this tip: keep a small float/buoy in the locker or nearby to > attach to this line, > >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Crazy Colorado Weather, and Winterizing
What sail plan do you use for 5" of snow? Can you fly the chute? Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 4:17 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Right :) That’s Colorado. Wednesday, sunny, 80 degrees, great breeze. > Went sailing. By Friday morning 5” snow on the ground and 15 degrees. By > Sunday afternoon, back to sunny and 70 for my club’s second-to-last race of > the year. I’ve put some Thursday vs. Sunday pictures at > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1q3dCLVtrYJAI3_ZRQZe3TQ3C1_SdkcIV. > > Regarding winterizing, all boats have to be out of Chatfield Marina > October 31st or sooner, and I winterize after haul-out. Right now the > water temp is about 60 degrees so I rely on that thermal mass to keep the > plumbing warm enough below waterline. But I did throw an insulated moving > pad over top of my A4 to keep it from freezing from the top. > > The fall sailing in Colorado has been absolutely glorious this year. > Clear blue skies, pleasant temps, really nice wind. I’ll be very sad to > haul the boat in two weeks. > > Cheers, > Randy > > On Oct 14, 2019, at 2:40 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > How in the world do you go from 13 ° and shoveling snow off your deck to > racing the next day? And what about winterizing!? > > Bill Coleman > Erie PA > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat
Isn't that what catenary in the anchor chain is for? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 4:42 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I think the use of a snubber is a small part of the problem here. First, > he never should have anchored near the path of a high-speed ferry. Second, > he should have tied the end of his anchor chain to the boat so it couldn’t > have gotten loose overboard. I have never used a snubber on my anchor > chain and I don’t think it would have made much of a difference in this > case. That’s just my opinion... > > Bob > > Bob Boyer > s/v Rainy Days > C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) > (Presently in Baltimore for the summer) > blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com > email: dainyr...@icloud.com > > On Oct 14, 2019, at 12:13 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List > wrote: > > Anyone who uses a windlass and chain without a snubber should watch this > video. Note in the video that there is a statement pointing the blame on > ferry boat wake rather than on the owner failure to use of a snubber by > saying "very very few people actually use a snubber”. > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdaxrGfT1M > > > - > Paul E. > 1981 C Landfall 38 > S/V Johanna Rose > Fort Walton Beach, FL > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Sailtimer app and racing
David, This may start a "my brain hurts" discussion. I just read Sailtimer's discussion here: http://www.sailtimerapp.com/VMG.html In that article are links to additional articles which may be enlightening. Since I don't have the app, I can only surmise what the display looks like in action. From seeing a screen shot on their site, it looks like it shows you a series of optimized tack legs that you simply follow. In their article they criticize GPS based VMG and rightly so. However, their slightly negative opinion of wind based VMG is subject to debate. Let me take a somewhat circuitous route to reply. You probably already know much of what I will say. As I have said often on this list, GPS VMG is just another datapoint for the racer. For those that haven't read my opinion on it, here's a brief synopsis. First, some definitions. - Velocity is both speed and direction. - VMG - velocity made good. - GPS VMG - when a waypoint is set, this is the vector component of how the boat is closing on the waypoint. In the Nexus instrument systems, it is called waypoint closure velocity, WCV - Wind based VMG - the vector component of speed and course directly upwind or directly downwind. Must have input from wind instrument, knotlog and compass. - SOG - speed over ground - COG - course over ground If you use GPS VMG in windward/leeward racing, you need to be careful. Many racers will set a waypoint at the windward mark. Early in the windward leg, GPS VMG closely approximates WCV. However, as you near a layline, GPS VMG will tend to zero. You are sailing perpendicular to your course to the waypoint. Wind based VMG will still be accurate but will be showing how quickly you are moving upwind, not towards the waypoint, or windward mark. So, my guess is that the Sailtimer app first learns the tacking angle for your boat. Then, based on that and wind based VMG, back calculates your optimum tack(s) from the waypoint (if set) to your boat's position. As the wind changes, it moves the points at which you should tack and subsequently moves each tack leg correspondingly. In it's simplest form, it may calculate the intersection of your boat's current SOG and COG and it's calculated layline from the mark. My opinion, as a racer, is that, IF the lifts and headers aren't dramatic and/or long lasting, SailTimer's suggested tracks may work well. This would be even more true for our slow to accelerate heavy displacement boats where frequent tacking would actually penalize performance. I question whether it would be optimum for the newer, lighter more agile sport boats. I also wonder how it would react to a continuous shift. What we racer call sailing a "great circle route". Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 8:07 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I had an email debate last week with the folks who make the Sailtimer app > and wireless wind instruments. They claim their app will determine optimal > tacking angles and adjust them in real time. I was trying to understand > what the software did and how it was doing calculations and getting very > confusing (to me) answers. As an example, I asked what the software would > do if there was a header. My presumption was it would detect the shift and > give you some feedback or recommend tacking. It should not be hard to > figure out that you are going slower toward the mark (VMG). We agreed taht > VMG was problematic because it changes as you approach a mark, but their > approach was equally problematic. Here is the response I got: > > *Headers and lifts are actually another antiquated racing method, that are > very clumsy in the age of GPS and computers. They were great in the 1920s > when it was impossible to do trigonometry every second in a boat heeled > over and crashing through waves. But they make you choose some arbitrary > length of time to get an average wind direction. And they make an > assumption that the wind is going to go back to average later. If a lift > happens for 2 minutes, why call that a lift and not say that it is the real > wind? Too many assumptions. * > > *They are not necessary; why not just always sail on the optimal course > to get you to the waypoint fastest? * > > *If the wind changes while on the proposed course, the green line moves, > and you just keep on following it. There is no such thing as lifts and > headers from some arbitrary time interval in which the wind direction is > averaged. Your goal should be simply to always follow the optimal tacks. * > > That answer makes absolutely no sense to me. Their optimal course is > based on polars as near as I can tell. More importantly, they are arguing > that there is no advantage to tacking on a header. Yes, there is a > tactical argument as to whe
Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Notice
They time it to arrive a few weeks before the official notice from the USCG VDC. Sneaky. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 9, 2019 at 7:49 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Listers: > > FYI, I just received a notice from the “Vessel Documentation Portal” > concerning my expiring certificate. This bogus letter looks a little > different than the last few bogus letters. It’s either a different service > or they changed the look of the letter. In any event, it appears to be the > same scam. Be warned. > > Matthew L. Wolford > 638 West Sixth Street > Erie, PA 16507 > (814) 459-9600 (Office) > (814) 459-9661 (Fax) > (814) 392-5599 (Cell) > > The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is > intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated > recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication, > attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected > from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient > or an authorized agent, you are hereby notified that you have received this > communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution, > copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If > you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it. > Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete > it. Thank you. > > Please consider the environment before printing this note. > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Favorite on board boat "go to" tools
We all have our favorite tools we keep on the boat. Here's two of mine that I use frequently. Fluke 101 multimeter. For years I kept a $20 multimeter from a big box store on the boat in a zip lock bag. It worked fine. A few months ago I bought a Fluke 101 on Amazon for $40. MUCH better meter. For those not into electrical, Fluke makes very good meters. I have a Fluke 85 multimeter that I used in my marine repair business for years. The 101 is its baby brother. Gearwrench 85035 Microdriver Set. I love this tool. It gets in tight spots, applies extra leverage needed to break loose fasteners and gets used a LOT on Touche' and around my house. I have 3 of them. Seems like I could probably complete 90% of the jobs on the boat with these two tools. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 - Do I really need an Opto-Islator? now WP30
The Navico WP30 hasn't been made in 15 years or so. It is/was an excellent wheel pilot for boats under 15,000 lbs or so. Wish they still made them. The big advantage of the WP30 is that it is a self contained unit. The compass was built into the unit mounted on the pedestal. It did not require an external compass. In its simplest form, all you had to do was supply 12 vdc power and press one button and it was steering to course. Add NMEA 0183 input and it steers to wind and waypoint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOopONhR-uQ In my opinion, the algorithms it used to steer were superior to other wheel pilots. It compensated well for sea state, etc. and did not require rudder position indicator data. I've logged many, many miles on Touche' with the WP30 and still love it. So much so that I bought a second unit off eBay for a spare. Used it this week in steer to course, steer to waypoint and steer to wind mode. Worked great. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Oct 5, 2019 at 9:34 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Interesting idea. I was also an IT guy (retired), but prefer to keep > things simple and manageable. > > I'm not familiar with the WP30 (is there an earlier thread on this?), but > I also have an older autopilot controller, a ComNav 1420, currently driving > a Raymarine wheel pilot motor. I don't have any other electronics (have > used Navionics so far), but will need to get radar and a chartplotter soon > for a planned trip to Haida Gwai and around Vancouver Island. I don't use > the AP much, usually in calm weather motoring only, as the drive motor/belt > system is pretty weak. The ComNav 1420 does support NEMA 0183, so it might > be worth keeping. > > What I'd really like to find is a more open system like Maretron with a > SI-Tex TCP/IP radar, but I understand those radomes are no longer made. I'm > not a fan of spending $$$ on vendor locked in electronics with a limited > lifespan. This SV Delos video on YT shows a very nice system that allows > for managing all functions from a tablet or PC, which appeals to me, but I > haven't located a source for a network radar at a reasonable cost yet: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJUSrbKS1-A > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > > On Fri, Oct 4, 2019 at 9:16 PM Francois Rivard via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hi Bill, >> >> There are a few ways to skin that cat. I'm also an IT guy, we live for >> workarounds :-) >> >> Skin the cat #1 To Navico's point: It would probably be somewhat of a >> feat to get the Zeus2 to recognize a 20 + year old WP 30 as a bonafide >> NMEA2000 modern day autopilot. Someone could spend months researching >> , write some fancy code to fool the Zeus, build that into an Arduino board, >> plug it in between, spend quite a few $$$ on ancillary stuff, and fool with >> it for untold hours to make it work. --- > not my speed. >> >> Skin the cat #2: Spend about $2,800 - $3,200 to get a proper controller >> CPU / hydraulic or $$ mechanical under the deck steering quadrant driving >> system, build the fiberglass mounts needed, drop the rudder to fit, etc, >> etc. For all that you get to use the cool Zeus autopilot functions / >> screens and have a robust blue water ready autopilot system. Most likely >> the thing to do for serious offshore work / not necessary for land locked >> Lake Lanier Georgia. >> >> Skin the cat # 3: Play it safe and spend 200 bucks / buy the Actisense >> NMEA Buffer SBF-3-BAS to make sure you don't fry your 1,000 bucks + >> chartplotter, ( >> http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/marine/pc/Actisense-NMEA-Buffer-NBF-3-BAS-p532.htm) >> and hook-up the Autopilot to use it's own Steer to wind function or follow >> waypoints dictated by your routes in Zeus. >> >> You don't necessarily have to use the Zeus autopilot functions. Using the >> video / NMEA0183 cable connected to Zeus and running it as designed it will >> broadcast all the necessary wind / depth / speed / heading / cross track >> / waypoint information to NMEA0183. The old WP30 is actually designed to >> listen to that broadcast info and react accordingly (It's supposed to do it >> quite well). You just make sure your Zeus is on and configured to >> broadcast then you hold the "Standby" WP30 button for a few seconds, and >> click both left and right arrows (On the WP 30 controller) at the same >> time. Done! Now the WP30 is a slave tho whatever Zeus is broadcasting and >> everything is working as designed by Navico 20+ years ago. >> >> Option #3 Works fo
Re: Stus-List October is here
Perhaps Stu's bank and your bank both use Zelle? I use it frequently. It seems to be somewhat widely used. Dennis C. On Fri, Oct 4, 2019 at 1:35 PM Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I am all in favor of contributing, but the link requires registering with > PayPal which I will not do due to their numerous security breaches and > archaic rules. Are there other options? I know there is a way to make a > one-time payment which does not thrill me. > > > > Neil Andersen, ASA 107, Yacht Broker > > FoxFire, 1982 C 32 > > Rock Hall, MD > > > > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Stu via > CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 2, 2019 5:40 PM > *To:* C Email List > *Cc:* Stu > *Subject:* Stus-List October is here > > > > Listers > > > > For us Canadians, Thanksgiving celebrations are just a few days away. And > it is time to get out your spooky costumes and go scare the neighbours. > > > > But most important, October has been traditionally the fund raising month > for this list and the Photo Album. I am sure that every one on this list > has benefited from the knowledge readily available from our members. Maybe > it even saved you mega-bucks and kept your yacht floating for a few more > years. > > > > The bills keep coming in and somebody has to pay them. Fixed retirement > income doesn’t cut it. So I am asking all of our subscribers to help pay > the bills and keep this list going and being one of the best on the > internet. > > > > Each and every contribution is greatly appreciated no matter the amount.. > If you want to support this list and the Photo Album using PayPal – go to > this link -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > Checks, money orders, etc., can be made payable to: > > Stu Murray > > 33 Langton Rd > > London, ON, Canada > > N5V 2L9 > > > > Thanking everyone in advance > > Stu > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 - Do I really need an Opto-Islator?
Francois, Doesn't answer your specific inquiry but I had issues getting my Navico WP30 to interface with my Nexus Classic system even though the instrument server output NMEA 0183 data. Not sure whether it was a data protocol or a voltage issue. They simply would not talk to each other. The WP30 would not do steer to wind. I had steer to waypoint by interfacing the WP30 to my GPS. After years of frustration I bought a used Noland NMEA multiplexer off eBay. I feed the multiplexer from the Nexus server and the WP30 now has all functionality; steer to course, steer to wind, steer to waypoint, etc. Further, my GPS now shows wind data on the navigation display. Like you, I bought a used WP30 off eBay so I now have a spare. Side note: The only oddity I've noticed is the WP30 now does NOT deactivate navigation mode (steer to waypoint) when the GPS signals waypoint arrival alarm. The boat calmly changes course and heads to the next waypoint. Before, when the GPS signaled arrival at a waypoint, the WP30 deactivated steer to waypoint mode and defaulted to steer to course mode. This is so the WP30 would not initiate a wild and crazy turn for the next waypoint. The multiplexer has a USB port. I looked at the data and have no clue why the arrival alarm code does not make it through the multiplexer. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Oct 4, 2019 at 9:26 AM Francois Rivard via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Good am all, > > I'm finally about to replace my old broken Navico wheel pilot with a > similar one I found used cheap. > > I would like to network it with my B Zeus2 charplotter to allow the > "Steer to wind" feature. > > - The Wheel pilot needs the old NMEA 0183 network connection and > fortunately the Zeus2 has a built-in feature to output NMEA 0183 in > addition to the new NMEA 2000 standard. > > Question is: Do I Really need to put an opto isolator between the two? > I've heard scary stories about ground loops destroying equipment. NMEA > 0183 has a + and - side / the wrong return current could go into the > networked device and ruin it. > > The instruments and auto pilot are on separate circuits but on the same > common ground bus behind the switch panel. > > I'm worried that the 25 year old power wire going to the autopilot could > somehow be a bit more resistive / something goes wrong with the > replacement auto pilot and ruin my expensive chartplotter. > > Anyone has experience with that? > > - Francois Rivard > 1990 34+ "Take Five" > Lake Lanier, GA > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Smelly head
The Jabsco head has a small spring in the wet/dry lever mechanism. If it’s weak, you may experience resistance when pumping. Like another lister said, replace the ENTIRE pump assembly. It’s $92 on Amazon. You’ll be happy. It’s a 20 minute job. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
