from:"Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC\-List"

Stus-List Re: C&C 30 mk1 cockpit mounted throttle adjustment

2022-09-28 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Mine has the same catch point.  Not certain the purpose - but I
  had to remove the cables and replace when I re-powered.  Working
  with the throttle/shifter was challenging - but that catch/notch
  mechanism was built into the throttle.  Still have same feeling
  with new engine.
Mark

-
Dr. Mark Bodnar, BSc, DC, FCCPOR(C)
  Chiropractic Rehabilitation Specialist
Bedford Chiropractic  www.BedfordChiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2022-09-25 2:41 p.m., Leeward Rail
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
   Our 30 mk1 with engine
  controls on the cockpit side, has a throttle detent/notch you
  can feel as you push it forward.  

Anyone
  else have this?  
If so,
  what is the purpose?  

The cable
  is out of adjustment. I am going to adjust the cable and
  wonder if that detent is to meant to be "startup" position or
  what. 

  I would
  assume if it is meant to be a start position that there is a
  recommended carb linkage position to match that detent at the
  throttle lever 

Cheers!

Roy

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: CnC44 Mast Height for Bridge Clearance

2021-05-04 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Another option is to wait for stong wind and attempt to sail under 
close hauled if we can get a good lean on.. anyone tried this?
Nope - but I would strongly recommend against it!  You might get heeled 
over enough to get under - but what happens when the wind shifts or 
worse gets blocked out by the bridge and your mast pops upright while 
your underneath?


Weights or a dinghy out to the side are far more consistent

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2021-05-04 5:53 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks everyone.
The measurements came from when I had the mast on the ground, i 
measured from the spartite to the top, and also the entire length. 
Just looking for confirmation from another 44 owner to make absolutely 
sure. The bridge has a tide marker on it and the tide is not too 
strong here so we won't go for it unless we are sure. Just looking at 
the pilings here it looks like the tide drops 1 or maybe 1.5 ft... not 
promising. Will probably go up and remove all the head gear. Another 
option is to wait for stong wind and attempt to sail under close 
hauled if we can get a good lean on.. anyone tried this?

Dan



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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C 40

2021-03-18 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Might be a lot of fiberglass work - but another was to go
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/sarnia/1979-sailboat-trawler-conversion/1554313591



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2021-03-18 6:00 p.m., Doug Robinson
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Here ya go:
  (I am suspicious of the third listing as it does not have a
C&C cove strip and I have only seen 37ft models).  Maybe
some C&C alumni could fill  us in on this project.  The one
in the yard a NOTL seemed  to be rather large to me at the
time.  I know of one based in Godrich, On some time ago.
  fdr
  
  
  
  http://www.yachtsfsbo.com/inquiry.php?ad_key=73702&d=1985_37_foot_C___C_CML_Trawler
  
  https://boats.oodle.com/detail/c-c-cml-trawler-37-double-cabin/5454451039-miami-fl/
  
  https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1982/c-c-c-c-trawler-3730734/
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On 3/18/21 4:12 PM, j...@dellabarba.com
wrote:
  
  




  Any links – I like to see those trawlers.
  jOE
   
  

  From: Doug Robinson 

Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 3:45 PM
To: j...@dellabarba.com;
'Stus-List' 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C
40

  
   
  One on Yacht World, and one in Bay City Michigan at
$49,000.  I wonder how many were built?
   
  
On 3/18/21 3:38 PM, j...@dellabarba.com
  wrote:
  
  
Are there any for sale anywhere? I
  haven’t seen one in years.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA
 
 
 

  
From: Doug Robinson via
  CnC-List 
  
  Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 3:30 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Doug Robinson 
  Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C
  40
  

 
Nah...C&C built trawlers:
There are a few on the market and if anyone would like to
  spice up this forum I would love to take a donation to
  keep up the variety. I was aboard one in the yard at NOTL
  plant and it was lovely, an adaptation of a commercial
  design they had done for the Government.  At 37ft they are
  currently $50k+ which puts them outa consideration for a
  86yr skipper..sob
fdr

  On 3/18/21 2:54 PM, Tom Buscaglia via
CnC-List wrote:


  Edd
  
  You come to the wrong church with that stink-pot
  talk...just sayin!
  
  Tom B
  
  At 09:03 AM 3/18/2021, you wrote:
  
  

  
Joe,

We are keeping an open mind, and much will depend
one how soon and how much the Enterprise-B sells
for. 

Big winds and big seas arenâ€™t usually an issue
here in Southwest Florida and weâ€™d like to get to
places like Tampa, Captiva Island, Sanibel, Naples,
the Keys and even the east coast or Bahamas without
spending days to get there. As Warp 7 (7 knots),
Captiva is about 7 hours away. And, it would be
great to hop down to Boca Grande or Port Charlotte
for lunch without leaving before sunrise :-)

I think we are leaning towards a sedan bridge boat
with an open cockpit. Ones that we have liked so far
are the Meridian 341, the Carver 36 Mariner, the Sea
Ray 400 SB, the Regal 4080 Commodore, Carver 41 CMY,
and so on. 

Iâ€™m well aware of the fuel and maintenance costs
along with the issues of docking (I plan to add
thrusters, if the boat doesnâ€™t have them),
especially since my slip is pretty tight and
requires some maneuvering to pull in — I couldnâ€™t
single-hand dock with this boat now anyway.  

All the best,

Re: Stus-List Carbon Fiber Whisker Pole

2020-04-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Vinyl wrap would likely work - more resilient than paint but also
still very light and unobtrusive. If you want to get fancy get it
done at a sign/decal company and you could add graphics or boat
name.

Cheap option would be to wrap whole pole in 2"-3" wide vinyl tape
(I'm thinking the same tape used for stripes down the side of the
boat) - you could add some grip tape to areas in needed.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2020-04-02 7:30 p.m., Jim Reinardy
via CnC-List wrote:

Richard,

I have a carbon spin pole. I
wound up having a cover made by Harken Canvas to my
measurements. As I recall the cost was pretty reasonable.
They are local to me, but I know they will ship as well.

My reasoning was that the paint
would get beat up quickly and I did not want to deal with
it in the cabin most of the time. The cover is probably 5
years old and has held up beautifully.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

2019-11-28 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I haven't redone my floorboards - but a few years ago I was
varnishing hardwood stairs and wanted some traction to reduce
risk.
I bought a small package of traction grit powder from Home Depot
in the paint department. I was only a couple $ for a small pouch.
First run I sprinkled it onto the stair treads but it was hard to
keep even. I then tried mixing it right into the varnish - the
white "powder" went mostly clear in the the varnish and spread far
more evenly when I rolled it on with a mini-roller. Gave a nice
even coverage.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2019-11-28 12:26 a.m., Russ &
Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Spencer,

Good to hear. I too find that clear polyurethane coatings are too
viscous
for the shells dispersing... paint too.

The idea of waiting until after tack is so you don't sand between
coats.
In this application a next day overcoat is usually just fine.

I think someone else suggested taping the holly strips as I hadn't
thought of it. Seems a little anal to me for something you trod on
anyhow. A sole is supposed to functional not something that you
might
pour a wine and sit on to admire. Yeesh.

I stopped using walnut shells on deck applications because the
coating
gets rubbed off quickly and the turn dark. In easy going
applications
it's not a concern.
On companionway treads & such I like the subtle contrast when
it goes
darker as it's good for old eyes to discern the steps, etc.

Using that jam jar mod is brilliant. And I hear that down south it
can
also be used to apply bourbon (to yourself, without the lid).

Cheers,
Russ
ex-
Sweet 35 mk-1
east
side, Vancouver Island

Hi Russ! Good
idea...I was just
following the included instructions by mixing with the
polyurethane
first...this kinda worked but didn't disperse the walnut shells
evenly.I
created a test board, put a few coats of Minwax Satin
Polyurethane on it,
then with a wet coat and a re-purposed jam jar with a nail hole
in the
top (not too big) I sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry
(spreading a wet coat over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up
the bottom
coat). Letting it dry completely and adding another coat seemed
to work
as I liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat
left tape
lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing
without
taping and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..
UPDATE: Using an old jam jar with one small nail hole init for
the walnut
shells I was able to control the sprinkle onto the wet
polyurethane
evenly.
The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the
rugs to
see how easily they move around.
IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells
just let me
know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam jar
that I
will never use. I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons more than
cover a typical cabin sole...

Spencer Johnson
84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL

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Re: Stus-List Advice on replacing 33-2 BandG 32mm transducer with Airmar 52mm transducer

2019-10-30 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I had to replace a malfunctioning depth transducer back in the spring.  
I started by trying to remove the old transducer but it was more than a 
little resistant with copious 5200 type sealant around it and 35yrs to 
harden.  I needed to drill out a larger thru-hull for the new transducer 
and was trying to figure out the best solution - a wood block in the 
hole or something similar.


In the end my simplest solution - I just left the existing broken 
transducer in place and used it to center my drill bit.  Drilled right 
into it thus removing the old transducer and drilling out the hole for 
the new one simultaneously.  Not sure how smoothly that would work if 
you're doing a paddlewheel but the depth transducer was pretty forgiving 
with some electronics encased in plastic.


Mark




There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana



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Re: Stus-List Arid bilge/Dry bilge alternative

2019-10-15 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Brilliant.  Thanks for that.  I've got a flat bilge in my CS 30
  and can never get the last bit of water out of the fiberglass grid
  that form the stringers in my bilge.  I already have that same
  diaphragm pump and was planning to try some solutions this next
  season to try and eliminate the water that sits below my normal
  bilge pump - I'll have to make up something that will wedge into
  the grid cavity.
Mark


-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-10-12 7:28 p.m., Josh Muckley
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
I always hate the remaining water left in the
  bilge after the pump looses suction.  I have been interested
  in 2 different professional systems for some time but the
  price was just not easy to justify.  I recently found an
  article on a Catalina forum that purported to be cheap and
  functional so I decided to give it a try.  I built it and
  tested it with a bucket of water.  Here's the video.


https://youtu.be/mEFCPYiqdbg



Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Dow Corning 795

2019-07-28 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



I was the one that used Pecora 895 to replace the plexi windows on my CS 
30.  I bought it locally in Halifax NS (Arrow construction in Burnside) 
plus used the 3M VHB tape with no screws/bolts or frames


That was spring 2017 - and my windows are still in great shape - no 
cracks in the sealant and no signs of leaks.


Mark




There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2019-07-26 7:05 p.m., robert via CnC-List wrote:

Bill,
 I have not used 795 but someone here on the list found Pecora 895 
which is supposed to be a very similar product.


I did a window job over 10 years ago and used Sika 295 UV with the 
Sika Primer.windows without frames or screws/bolts are still in 
tack and water tight.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-07-26 6:23 p.m., Bill Dakin via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone use an alternative to 795 for the plexiglass seal?

Bill Dakin

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Re: Stus-List compost toilet?

2019-06-13 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
With a reasonably accurate aim you can stand and pee in
  composting head as well
Mark





There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-06-13 11:38 a.m., Della Barba,
  Joe via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
That
is for the composting head.
Joe
 
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 10:11 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: compost toilet?
 

  I stand to pee in my vac-flush all the
time.  No problemthat I know of.
  
 
  
  
Josh Muckley 
  
  
S/V Sea Hawk 
  
  
1989 C&C 37+
  
  
Solomons, MD 
  


  

  


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Re: Stus-List compost toilet?

2019-06-10 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



I have a composting toilet in my CS30.

I'm happy with it.  My boat, when I bought it, was still in it's 
original 1986 configuration with no holding tank.  I was looking into 
plumbing in a holding tank, but we also have the issue of very few pump 
out facilities avail in my area.


After some reading I decided to go ahead with it.  3yrs in I went ahead 
and removed the old thru hulls and had the yard glass them over.


I'll admit mine doesn't get heavy usage, and yes trying to explain the 
process to guests is not terribly straight forward, but I've found it 
works well.


It's a urine separating head (separate container for urine) - I'm 
planning to add a small windshield washer pump that will drain the urine 
container overboard.  For the fecal matter - I've not actually had to 
empty mine yet, but it looks and smells like peat moss (my started 
material) with toilet paper mixed in (the toilet paper is the last thing 
to break down).  It is a little awkward size wise - designed to sit at 
ground level - it's rather high sitting on the platform for the marine 
head (can't lower platform due to hull curvature).


I'd imagine the heavy usage might be different.  But with maybe 2-4 
overnights per summer and 12-14 day sails it works for us.


Mark




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Re: Stus-List Beta Marine 20hp

2019-04-26 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Thanks for the info - I'll pass on that one. Too many unknowns
and too far away to gamble for me
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2019-04-26 8:36 p.m., Dave Godwin
via CnC-List wrote:

Mark and Kevin,

Thanks for reminding me.

Okay, a cursory take which is all that I was able to
do. It may allegedly have very few hours on it but it’s 15-years
old. The story is that the gentleman had it installed his
sailboat but fell fatally ill and gave the boat to the yard
owner. The yard owner removed to engine which was apparently the
only thing of value.

It’s a Beta Marine type BD722, Engine number 2L5161,
Woc(?) K11036, Output 20BHP @ 3600 RPM. Fresh-water cooled. Date
of manufacture unknown to me.

It has an attached transmission but I was unable to
identify it. Eyeball inspection indicates the shaft is in-line
with the crank.

It appears to be in fairly reasonable shape with
factory alternator, original belts and engine mounts.
Miscellaneous hoses. Some surface rust but nothing out of the
ordinary or troubling.

I did NOT see an instrument panel and failed to ask
about one but will do that if there is interest. I did not
discuss price.

A few of photos available on request.

Regards,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue
Refit

On Apr 26, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Kevin Burke via
CnC-List
wrote:

I might be interested. I am in Virginia.

On 4/25/2019 1:16 PM, Dave
Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

I was talking to a friend this morning.
He’s out of the marina business and is getting rid
of a bunch of marine items that he has lying around.
I’m interested in some teak but he mentioned that he
had a virtually new Beta Marine 20hp diesel for
sale. I don’t have any clear details but I believe I
heard “around 5 hours on the motor” and “maybe
$2,000.00”.

I’m going to go look at his stuff
tomorrow morning.

If someone was interested, I’ll explore
that motor in more detail.

Regards,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s
Overdue Refit

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Re: Stus-List Beta Marine 20hp

2019-04-25 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I doubt there is much likelihood in getting the engine shipped
all the way to Halifax or that the transmission will be the right
"down angle transmission" - but I'd be interested in more
details.

I expect that I'll be re-powering my CS30 in the next few years
(plan was for a Beta 16) when my Volvo 2002 give up.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2019-04-25 2:16 p.m., Dave Godwin
via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

I was talking to a friend this morning. He’s out of
the marina business and is getting rid of a bunch of marine
items that he has lying around. I’m interested in some teak but
he mentioned that he had a virtually new Beta Marine 20hp diesel
for sale. I don’t have any clear details but I believe I heard
“around 5 hours on the motor” and “maybe $2,000.00”.

I’m going to go look at his stuff tomorrow morning.

If someone was interested, I’ll explore that motor
in more detail.

Regards,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue
Refit

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Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

2019-04-20 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I've not rebuilt a rudder - but I've seen on one youtube.
Not sure if you're familiar with Sail Life channel - Mads is
  rebuilding a boat and does a mold of his existing rudder before. 
  He makes it look manageable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IjN9Sgm2qs
Mark

-
Dr. Mark Bodnar, BSc, DC, FCCPOR(C)
  Chiropractic Rehabilitation Specialist
Bedford Chiropractic  www.BedfordChiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-04-20 1:39 a.m., Dan via
  CnC-List wrote:

Thanks everyone,
  I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition
Composites. Both options are landing well into the $5000
cdn range (including freight) which is way beyond my
budget. Foss Foam doesn't have a C&C44 Rudder mold
but can try to "match" something similar which scares me
a little and it's roughliey $1200 US to get it to
Canada. Competition has a very expensive high-tech
process using CAD software and a milling machine which
I'm sure is standard for any Americas Cup contender but
drives the price as expected.

  Has anyone tried to re-build their own rudder? - I've
been told carving 15lb density rigid foam and
encapuslating is the way to go - like this:
  http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/rudder-rebuild.html

  Dan

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 9:00
  AM Rod Stright via CnC-List  wrote:

I
  would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent
  workmanship,Canadian 

  Rod

  Sent from my iPhone

  > On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
  > 
  > Has any C&C44 owners on the list replaced their
  rudder, and if so, where did you have the work done? - The
  price is dramatically reduced if they have an existing mold to
  work with.
  > 
  > Dan Cormier
  > Breakaweigh
  > C&C44
  > Halifax, NS
  > ___
  > 
  > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
  contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If
  you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution
  --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  > 

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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-15 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Tom,
As noted the Apple products have the GPS chip tied to the cell
  system - thus requiring you buy a more expensive cellular enabled
  unit.


Another option is Android tablets.  For $160 cdn you can get an
  Acer 8" screen Android tablet at Costco, or $230 for a 9.6" screen
  Samsung - neither has cell capacity but both should have the GPS
  capacity you're looking for.  Cheaper than the iPad.  Of course
  there are other Android options that rival the iPad costs - some
  even with built in waterproofing.



I use a couple older tablets for my navigation - download maps
  and info with WiFi when I'm at home.  They do come with one
  challenge that I've noticed - harder to find good cases for some
  of these tablets because they don't have the sales numbers of
  Apple.



Mark





There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-01-14 9:23 p.m., T power via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
Awesome, thanks, much appreciated
  

  
  

  
Tom Power
  
Invictus
  
C&C 30 MK1
  
Fredericton, NB

  
  
  From:
  CnC-List  on behalf of
  Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 9:15 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation
 
  
  

  
To add to Joel’s comment, the iPad must be cellular capable
  (not all of them are).  Joel is correct that you need not
  activate the cell plan.

  
 

  From: 
  Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:53 PM
  To: 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: 
  Joel Aronson 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for
navigation

  
   


  
Tom
  
   
  No. You don’t need to activate the cell plan. The GPS
antenna is shared with the cell antenna in the iPad.
  
  
 

  On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 7:51 PM T power
via CnC-List 
wrote:
  
  

  
Hi,
  
I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the
navionics app to plan and use for nav purposes
on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter
and paper charts.
  
 
  
I read that to use the Navionics app on the
water to purchase an ipad that has cellular
capability.
  
 
  
So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G
AT&T, Verizon, etc... 
  
 
  
So my Question is; Does it matter what provider
is noted because I'm only using the cellular for
the Navionics app?
  
 
  
Thanks for any help.
  
 
  
Cheers,
  
 
  
Tom
  
 
  

  
Tom Power
  
Invictus
  
C&C 30 MK1
  
Fredericton, NB

  

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Stus-List Off list - Re: 1974 36 mk2 questions

2019-01-10 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I sail a 1986 CS 30 on the East coast (Halifax area).
Ended up on the C+C list looking for advice regarding a C+C I was
  looking at 6 yrs ago (similar to you now) - stayed because there
  is some good information.
If you have questions about the CS30 I can offer some advice
I general I'd agree with the comments you're getting from others
  on the list - find a basic boat that is well kept, you can work on
  the details later, or not because you're too busy sailing!
Mark



-
Dr. Mark Bodnar, BSc, DC, FCCPOR(C)
  Chiropractic Rehabilitation Specialist
Bedford Chiropractic  www.BedfordChiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-01-10 12:58 a.m., Shawn Wright
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Hi Steve,


Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are
  so few listings around here that they don't have anything to
  show me. I have visited and walked every dock within a 2 hour
  drive from here, but being on an island, that's not a lot of
  boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There are
  new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
  nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not
  nailed down what I want yet, so the boats that have interested
  me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my price range -
  like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not
  been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the
  interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
  budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much
  less common here. Lots of C&Cs, but anything over 27' is
  usually asking too much, like $30K+. I even looked at Catalina
  30... 


The only C&C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K,
  and the broker says it's because the wife says sell, but the
  husband doesn't want to, so he won't drop the price...
There are a ton of C&Cs here (at WestPort in Sidney
  they are more common that Catalinas) but the prices seem
  higher than most places.


I do need to get on board a few more C&Cs to get a feel
  for them, as I have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far.
  And yes, a diesel is a must. Trouble is, I want a decent light
  air boat that can also handle rough seas that we will sea at
  times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that usually
  means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K
  CAD. 


But I am learning at lot along the way. :)


Thanks
  
  
  
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via
  CnC-List  wrote:


  Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their
boats is my advice. 


This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a
  hatchback I was selling recently. The guy drove over an
  hour out to the countryside where we live to look at the
  car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up
  fitting how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot
  of time if he had just gone to a used car lot and done his
  decision making there. Likewise, you can learn a lot
  walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
  calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are
  literally paid to show boats. Get your short list figured
  out, buy the first boat that meets your requirements and
  price point. Go sailing. 


For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low
  when I sold it, and went through a broker. Quick sale, and
  only the serious buyers will make the effort. First guy
  who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage off,
  it was a hard decision. 


Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude
  - I'm boatless, and jealous :)


If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I
  REALLY loved my C&C 32. And they tend to be priced
  lower for whatever reason, they're not great PHRF boats
  and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a
  great handling, and sailing boat that one can cruise on in
  comfort, though. Mine was a 1980, later ones came with
  diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for

Re: Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

2018-12-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
Fair enough.  I do buy refurbished gear sometimes as well.  I was
  more thinking I'm not going to try and piece together a new
  transducer to the old display.
Raymarine doesn't have any of what I need right now in the referb
  section (only a depth display with no transducer)
Thanks,
Mark





There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2018-12-19 5:14 PM, David Knecht via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  I would disagree on one point.  I frequently buy refurbished
  electronics for boat and home and have not had a problem yet.  My
  logic is that at least the refurbished item has been specifically
  tested and shown to work up to spec.  That is more than the
  standard stuff off the assembly line gets.  Dave
  

  
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT






  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

2018-12-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
Thanks everyone for the replys.
Fred - If I was going to go with the i40 instruments then I would
  just replace the depth sounder - I wouldn't be adding wind
  instruments as part of the i40 group.  
Don't think I'm going to go refurbished or The big question - do
  I jump to the whole package and add in the wind sensor or just
  replace the existing depth.  

Dwight noted the benefits of all the extra info - but I have to
  admit I have zero experience in that area --- my sailing history
  is in dinghys with zero instruments, and my last 2 keel boats with
  only depth and speed.  Add that more often than not I don't have
  "crew"

I guess the single transducer speed/depth/temp adds another minor
  complexity - I'd have a thru-hull to plug.  But I have a couple
  unused thru-hulls from my conversion to composting head - so I'll
  need to patch those sometime soon anyway.
I'm going to take a closer look at my wires - see if there is any
  sign of damage that could be repaired.   If no luck I'll have to
  decide which way to go.  

I'll likely wait for boat show sales to see if there are deals -
  or Fred do you have deals on an i70 system?  

Mark






There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2018-12-18 5:33 PM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Mark — I would NOT consider the i40 system for wind; your only
  choice for a wind transducer is one suitable only for power boats.
  
  
  The i70 is a nice system; and yes, you do get water
temp with it, as the transducer is a single depth/speed/temp
transducer.  And you get a much better wind transducer.
  
  
  — Fred

  
  
  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
  WI   :^(




  


  


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Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

2018-12-18 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I'd appreciate some advice regarding a non-functioning depth
  sounder.
Near the end of the season my depth sounder started reading 0 no
  matter the condition.  I couldn't find any obvious explanation for
  the problem - but I'm thinking that the Autohelm depth and speedo
  are original to the 1986 boat - so likely better to suck it up and
  replace than to jury rig a repair or sink money into a new
  transducer.
Should I just replace the broken depth and worry about the speedo
  at at another time?  Anyone think it's better to do a whole
  package?

I have a Raymarine wheel pilot (waiting for me to install) - so I
  assume the smart move would be to stick with the same product
  line. Such as - Raymarine i40 Depth System with Thru-Hull
  Transducer E70142.  With the Binnacle a new depth sounder $340,
  and a new speedo ($350) combined for almost $700 - would I be
  better to add a whole package with wind instruments?

Raymarine i70s Instrument Value Pack Speed Depth Wind T70226 -  https://tinyurl.com/y9zumft6
  - $1600 cdn at Binnacle (I wouldn't mind if I could get water
  temp as well but don't know if that's an option with Raymarine).
Another option - someone on this list suggested SailTimer as a
  better option for wind instruments.
Thanks in advance
Mark





-- 




There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  


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Re: Stus-List Was considering C&c 25

2017-09-06 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Lisle,
I'll offer some of my own thoughts. I sailed/raced dinghies as a
  teenager (in Lake Ontario).  Then did a bit of crewing on keel
  boats after I finished school.  Years later I wanted back into
  sailing - I found a inexpensive 24 ft Mirage (which had it's roots
  in C&C) and got my feet wet. I had never docked a large boat
  and was well out of my comfort zone even with the 24.

The first time I ran 50m from the hoist to a slip I was sweating
  worried I'd bounce off one of the other boats.  Worked out ok, and
  I quickly remembered my love for sailing.  Comfort with the 24
  built gradually - as I docked in more challenging conditions,
  couldn't start my out board and docked under sail, ended up in
  stiffer conditions than I expected and had to figure out how to
  reef on the fly and sail the boat home into the wind.

Within 2 years I wanted something bigger.  I bought a CS30 (I
  came across this list looking for advice on a couple C&C's
  that fell though) - first time I was driving that boat had me
  right back out of my comfort zone - but it returned quickly.
While the bigger boat has a chance of doing more damage with
  higher forces on the lines, more mass to stop or re-direct and
  more complex systems, I'd say the learning curve jumping straight
  to the 30 wouldn't be too bad.  Especially if you're smarter than
  me and found a more experienced buddy to take you out at the
  start, get you off on the right foot, plus come out a few times
  when the weather is a bit more lively, help you learn.
After 2 years in the Mirage 24, and now almost 4 years in the CS
  30 I'm still learning, still uncomfortable at times, but gaining
  more and more confidence.  I'm pretty happy with my current size -
  there is enough room to take out my 4 teenagers overnight, plenty
  of space if just the girlfriend and I want to go together for a
  few days, and still manageable size if I'm sailing solo.  The 30
  is literally twice the boat (twice the displacement, twice the
  interior volume) - which means twice the effort to clean the hull
  and repaint in the spring, twice the cost for gear -- but for me
  it's a good balance point.
Best of luck
Mark
CS 30 Prosecco
Deep Cove, Nova Scotia



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-09-06 10:16 PM, Lisle Kingery,
  PhD via CnC-List wrote:


  Thanks for all the replies, very helpful as I
think (obsess) over the boat options. 😀
  
  
  I'm torn between the Pearson 27 and the C&c
30. As noted, the 30 is a much bigger boat and maybe not the
best choice for a beginnner?
  
  
  My goal/plan is to learn her over the next 5-8
years on Lake Ontario and Seneca lake, and then consider taking
her down for longer trips down the east coast cruising once the
kids get older (currently 6 and 4). I'm thinking the C&c
would clearly better meet that long term fantasy. 
  
  
  I could start with the 27 then if it works out
could move up in 5-8 years but wonder if it would be better to
grow into a boat rather than grow out of one.
  
  
  Thanks again for your replies.
  
  
  Lisle
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

2017-08-09 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an anchorage I 
decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out a couple times by 
hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a hundred Torlon balls 
rained down from the mast head!  Seems my retaining ring clamp on the 
upper swivel had come partially out of the groove - when it let go I 
sprinkled the anchorage with the innards of the swivel.


I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top first, see 
if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you start testing other 
parts of the system.


Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed line, 
jamming in the drum etc.


Mark

CS30 - Prosecco

Deep Cove, Nova Scotia


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to 
get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it 
past the sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too 
much effort.  I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do 
any of you have any advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?


Thanks in advance!

Danny

Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

2017-07-26 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Fred,
I'd suggest following the advice in the Sail Mag article
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/
And http://svjohannarose.blogspot.ca/search/label/NewPorts

I did my windows this spring.  It went pretty smoothly.  I
  initially thought I'd want to spread the sealant on the cabin side
  before I attached the window - but couldn't see how I could keep
  the tape clean.  In the end - using the "tape hinge" method to get
  the window in the right place and attached, then masking around
  the window and squeezing the caulk sealant in from the outside
  filled the gap easier than I expected.
The biggest challenge I had (after getting the windows out) was
  cutting and shaping my windows.  Putting them in and sealing was a
  long day - but not as fraught with challenges as most other boat
  projects I've faced.

Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco
Deep Cove Nova Scotia



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-07-26 11:25 AM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides
  of the tape, you can cut it with a sharp scissors.  I just did a
  square or angled cut as needed to the tape, then butted the next
  piece right up to the previous piece and kept going.
  
  
  If I understand your second question, when I had the
acrylic cut for the new windows, I made sure I had at least 1/8”
or more all the way around the window between the acrylic and
the mortise into the cabin top; then the Dow 795 was “injected”
into that gap under pressure so it squeezed around under the
acrylic up to where the tape was.  I also tended to hold the
tape off the inside opening a bit, so it didn’t show so much
from the inside.  That made for less of a gap between the
outside edge of the acrylic and the tape under it.
  
  
  And the VHB tape isn’t really permanent; it just
sticks really well.  If you get a putty knife
into the small crack between the acrylic and the cabin top from
inside the boat, you’ll eventually be able to work your way
around the opening and get the thing loose.  But it’ll take a
while, and you’ll definitely wreck the old acrylic in the
process.  Hopefully, you’ll have many years before you’ll need
to do this…
  
  
  — Fred

  
  



  

  

  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield,
  WI
  

  

  
  
  




  
On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:


  
Now
  that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur
  to me.


Assuming
  I want the tape to just outline the window opening,
  can I cut the the tape to go around the corners
  without sticking to the scissors or sharp blade?  The
  shape of the window opening has some rather quick,
  tight turns.  The radius of one turn is no more than
  the radius of a dime.


Another
  question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon. 
  When do I apply the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2"
  wide and the some of the window will extend more than
  1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before
  affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing
  onto the tape as I apply pressure. If I put the
  silicon after sticking the window in place I can see
  difficulties in getting it into the area that is less
  than 1/8" thick. 


Another
  question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming
  that I have my boat until the windows need replacing
  again,  how will I be able to remove one if the tape
  is "pe

Re: Stus-List mast gate

2017-07-24 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I fashioned my own mast gate out of a piece of aluminum.
Bent a thin bit of wire to approximate the curve of the mast. 
  Then took some scrap aluminum and pounded it to match the shape. 
  Ground out a elongated hole so it can slide in and out and filed
  the edge thinner to allow the slugs to slip past.  

I don't have a handy photo - but it was relatively
  straightforward.  I can send you a pic if you're interested. 
  Works well - saves the hassle of re feeding slugs each time.

Mark



-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-07-21 4:24 PM, William Walker
  via CnC-List wrote:


  Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate
so I could get someone to machine from aluminum..Tired of
feeding without a mast gate..
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi 
  Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

2017-05-22 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Got new fixed ports in yesterday.
Went fairly smoothly - Paul, I used your advice to hinge the
ports up on a few pieces of masking tape - worked perfectly. The
whole process was much easier than getting the old ports off and
repairing the mess.
In retrospect I'd have the plexi cut professionally next time. I
was easy to cut with a variable speed jig saw - but not as
straight as I'd like. Maybe I should have made a template. Plus
finishing the edges was a pain. Not as smooth as I'd like - but
stand back a few feet and they look fine.

I did spray the non-window portion of ports with Krylon Fusion
black - did a nice job of blacking out the window. That said when
the sun was low and shinning right on the window I could see right
through the plexi where it wasn't painted and see the blue epoxy
repair and the rough finish (just a 1/2 inch around the window
opening)
From the inside they look perfect - nice to be able to see
out

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2017-04-25 2:18 PM, Dreuge via
CnC-List wrote:

Hi Mark,

I installed new ports via VHB tape and Dow 795 using
Krylon Fusion to make a bonding mask. The link to my write up
is below. As already mentioned, the mask provides a nice
finished edge hiding the underlying tape and sealant. I don’t
recall the source, but I have read that the Krylon Fusion acts
like a bonding primer for the Dow 795 promoting adhesion. (Dow
actually sells a clear RTV primer, see Dow PR-1200 ) There are
reports from folks on sailing sites who have tested the bonding
with and without a Fusion mask, and they report no loss of
adhesion. That stated, if you go with a Fusion mask, then one
thin coat is all that is need and likely better than a thicker
coat. But to be honest, I think the greatest detriment to
adhesion are your fingers. Don’t touch the bonding surface, be
it Fusion paint or not. And just before inserting the port,
give the surface mounted area one last wipe down with isopropyl
and let dry.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts

-
Paul E.
1981
C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at
11:39 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Thanks for the
info - I was hoping I could get away with a rough
repair.

As for the paint - I've read (elsewhere I guess) that
it's a good idea to
rough fit the window, trace from the inside where the
opening is, then
strip away the paper cover for the section of window
that will be against
the cabin top and spray paint it black with Krylon
Fusion plastic paint.
The idea is to make sure the VBH tape and the 795 are
not visible through
the plexiglass. There was some question about the
adhesive qualities of the
Fusion paint - so I might test that on old plexiglass.

While my plexiglass is dark grey I still thought I might
be able to see
some of the - I'll have to test that too.

Mark

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Re: Stus-List Plexus Removal During Fixed Port Replacement

2017-05-16 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I considered the same thing - if the plexus is well adhered then
  why not just leave it there?
But some of the plexus was not well adhered - some came off
  fairly easily with just hand pressure on a chisel.  I decided I
  didn't want to finish the job to discover that the foundation
  attachment was weak in spots and in need of replacement.
That said I couldn't "pull" my plexus off -- it was rock hard and
  had to be chipped away 



Mark
CS30 Prosecco



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-05-16 12:35 PM, Bruce Whitmore
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
Hello all,

  
I am looking to your
collective wisdom on the fixed port replacement on our 1994
C&C 37/40+.  I am aware of the recommendations regarding
VHB and Dow 795.

  
Due to time
constraints, I am having a highly recommended pro do the
work, and he removed one of the ports today.  He asked a
reasonable question, since the plexiglass peeled off without
pulling any of the Plexus off the gelcoat.  When he tried to
pull a bit of the Plexus off, as many of you have commented,
it also pulled some of the gelcoat.  The Plexus also quite
hard.

  
So, if the Plexus is
so well adhered, and it will be very stubborn to come off
the gelcoat (and do damage in the process), Should I just
leave the Plexus in place and allow the VHB to attach to
it?  
  

  
I understand the
thickness of the VHB might make the window stand out a
little proud from the fiberglass by comparison, but I'm not
sure that's a bad tradeoff compared to trying to remove
something that might serve as a good substrate anyway.

  
Thoughts? 

  

  
Your
input is greatly appreciated!
 
Bruce
  Whitmore
  
  (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
  
  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List nature's head

2017-05-09 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I installed a Natures Head on my CS 30 three yrs ago.

I've not yet fiber-glassed over the inlet and outlet thru hulls -
but I feel confident enough with the composting head that I'm
planning to get it done.
In my case I didn't have a holding tank, needed new toilet and
new hoses -- so the composting head was cheaper and far easier.

I basically took the old toilet out - dropped the composting head
in it's place. Drilled an air vent opening and added a solar vent
in the head mated up with the air vent hose.

Toilet is bit too tall for the space - but I couldn't set it
lower because the shelf under the toilet covers the curve in the
hull. Leaves you sitting with your feet dangling. I may raise the
floor height - but given I'm over 6ft I'd rather not lose
headroom. I can offer up some pictures if you are interested. Seem
to remember that the Natures Head was an easier fit than the Air
Head for my space.

I have had some small flies in the head (advised to use
diatomaceous earth which I'll try this year)) - but no smell from
the head at all. After 3 yrs I've not had to empty the compost yet
(fairly light use). Worst part is emptying the urine jug - but I
hope to add a 12V windshield washer pump discharging to the sink
drain to simplify that task.

Overall I'm pleased. Bit of a pain explaining to guests how to
use it - but still less complex than a manual marine toilet.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2017-05-09 5:35 PM, Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List wrote:

Does
anyone have one?
Thinking
about a plumbing reduction.
Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

2017-05-04 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Update on the process.

All 4 windows are out - gel coat damage is not too bad.

Today before work I chiseled the plexus off 2 window frames. 1 inch at a 
time - a slow process for sure! Canadian Sailcraft covered a lot of 
extra cabin side with plexiglass to make for a sleek window silhouette 
even though they are only covering 2 small openings.


Figure another 90min of chiseling - and then some repairs.

Called multiple places looking for Dow Corning 795  - found one window 
installer that had 1 single tube (most suppliers just had "Dow Corning 
silicone" - and couldn't confirm the product specifically). In the end I 
bought Pecora 895NST from Arrow building supplies in Burnside for only 
$9cdn/tube - the spec's are identical to Dow 795 and the company makes 
it specifically to match the Dow product.


I shouldn't have a problem slightly over sizing my windows - my cabin 
sides don't have insets, just a flat surface.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-04-25 12:55 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List wrote:
I used a sharp chisel to shave the plexus off the gelcoat. The old 
glue was still flexible enough that sanding didn't work well at all. 
It was a long process as there was a lot of glueline to be cleaned. 
Quite a lot of gelcoat came away with the plexi, which I filled and 
sanded flat. My plexi was slightly oversized and it was a problem 
because of the bevelled inset. I had to bevel the back of the plexi to 
open a channel for the Dow 795.


Al
SV Elendil
94 C&C 37/40+




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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

2017-04-24 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Thanks for the info - I was hoping I could get away with a rough repair. 

As for the paint - I've read (elsewhere I guess) that it's a good idea to rough 
fit the window, trace from the inside where the opening is, then strip away the 
paper cover for the section of window that will be against the cabin top and 
spray paint it black with Krylon Fusion plastic paint. The idea is to make sure 
the VBH tape and the 795 are not visible through the plexiglass.  There was 
some question about the adhesive qualities of the Fusion paint - so I might 
test that on old plexiglass. 

While my plexiglass is dark grey I still thought I might be able to see some of 
the - I'll have to test that too. 

Mark

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Stus-List Window replacement

2017-04-24 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Got my sheet of plexiglass for my window replacement.

This weekend I started by removing 2 of the old surface mounted windows 
to use a templates.  I used a small paint scraper/putty knife and a 
hammer to split the bond between the plexi and the boat.  It wasn't 
painless - but worked fairly well with I think minimal damage (I seem to 
recall a suggestion from this list not to "pry" the window off but 
chisel all the way around to minimize the gel coat damage).


Now I'm wondering if there are any specific recommendations to clean up 
the area before putting on the new windows?


I'll need to scrape or sand off the remaining plexus and surface coat 
over the damaged areas.  Don't think it needs to look pretty because it 
will all be covered with the new dark plexi - plus I'll spray black on 
the back of the plexi where it's going to be against the hull.  I'll try 
a scraper and random orbital sander to get the plexus down - as long as 
I've got a solid surface for the VHB tape to adhere.  For the damaged 
gel coat - skim with some thickened epoxy and then some gel coat or just 
paint? Or does it need any covering given it will be protected from UV 
by the plexiglass?


My plan is to cut the new windows about 1/2" larger all around to cover 
any damage or discolouration.


Any advice on how to get the remnant plexus off or best repair method is 
appreciated.


Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco

--



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

2017-04-06 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Just bought a 4x8 sheet of dark grey 3/8" cast acrylic (2074)
  from Piedmont Plastics (should arrive in 2 weeks).
And yes, my CS 30 appears to have grey rather than bronze
  windows.  My forward hatch was replaced by the PO - definitely a
  dark grey tint.  

I'll be replacing the 4 side windows using the VHB tape method -
  hopefully with enough left over to replace the "glass" from the 2
  older hatches.
Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-04-06 9:18 AM, robert via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  His boat is a CS 30, not a C&Cmaybe CS used grey?
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  On 2017-04-05 2:35 PM, Frederick G
Street via CnC-List wrote:
  
  

Bronze is what was used originally on the C&Cs, both for the
fixed windows and the hatches, FWIW…


— Fred
   

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C
Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
   
  

  
  
  
  
  
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Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

2017-04-05 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.

Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently 
Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.


Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from 
Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.


I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey 
acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side 
windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be 
forced to go with light grey for both.



Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done 
some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems 
to come up.
I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of 
9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't 
seem like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or 
availability.


I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the 
replacement this spring.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana




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Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

2017-04-04 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done 
some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems to 
come up.
I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of 
9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't 
seem like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or 
availability.


I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the replacement 
this spring.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-04-04 3:35 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:

http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/blog/2011/05/08/175/

Gives a good explanation  but its clearer, and harder more scratch 
resistant, and similar properties in all directions.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

Hi Paul,

I don't remember the reason.  Why cast?   What is the other type?

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.


On Apr 4, 2017, at 2:13 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List  
wrote:

And be sure its cast ...

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

Remember to use plexiglass, not Lexan.  Lexan will scratch and craze.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.


On Apr 4, 2017, at 12:39 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
wrote:

I spoke to a local fabricator about making the windows.

We spoke for a while about the curvature of the windows and whether they would 
have to be thermoformed.

I know the windows curve to match the curve of the cabin top, but are they at 
all curved vertically?

Researching Lexan is seems you can cold bend it as long as the radius is 10x 
the thickness.

For anyone who has done this on a 34/36 or 37/40, were the replacement windows 
flat stock?

Thanks,

Eric
S/V Hee Soo
34/36
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

2017-03-27 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I'm certainly not an expert on the subject - but I'd suggest
  reading extensive info on the topic here 
https://www.morganscloud.com/2017/02/27/the-right-tethers-to-keep-us-aboard-part-2-construction-and-hardware/
Yes it's a pay site - but Attainable Adventure Cruising has a ton
  of info.  Recently updated a entire online book on staying on
  board.  The book digs into the forces involved, proper jack lines
  and hard points etc.  The authors make the argument that hitting
  hard up against most tethers will do some serious damage and
  dragging will kill you - the best solution is a system that stops
  you from getting overboard in the first place.  It's not a "do it
  this way" recommendation - but a discussion on what might work and
  

BTW - I get no financial return from referring people to the site
  - just a satisfied customer.

Mark
CS 30 Prosecco



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-03-27 1:46 PM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Graham — it depends a bit on your boat’s setup; but basically you
  want the backlines to start and end about six feet from the ends
  of the boat, so you don’t get dragged behind the
  boat if you go over.  On my boat, the previous owner put a padeye
  on the foredeck aft of the bow a ways; I use one continuous length
  of webbing, running it through a locking carabiner attached to
  that bow padeye.  The aft ends go to other padeyes mounted forward
  of the transom on either side deck.  These get tied off under some
  tension.  Other boats use cleats aft.
  
  
  — Fred

  
  
  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
  WI   :^(




  
On Mar 27, 2017, at 11:35 AM, Graham Young via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:

Fred, your link to
the flat webbing...what kind of attachments/fasteners to
you use for this kind of webbing.  I see some of the
jack lines are sold with loops on the ends?
  


  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

2017-03-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Of course - that makes sense.  Thanks for clearing that up.

I'll have to look into it more.

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-03-18 10:54 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Mark,

You won't have dynamic falls (one would hope) when climbing the mast. Dynamic 
falls happen when you are climbing and leading (the lead regularly is above the 
least piton or nut and if you fall you drop the double that distance). When you 
are climbing the mast, all your falls would be static - if you main gear fails, 
you would simply hang on the safety line. If you have someone helping, that 
person would take the slack of the safety line. If you are solo, you would move 
your attachment point (the Prusik's knot; the 3rd ascender) up as you are 
climbing. The safety line (and attachment should be almost tight (not too 
tight, you want the freedom of movement).

So in short - leave the dynamic ropes to the climbers; use the static ropes 
(lines) that we all have on the mast.

Unless you are climbing the mast on a regular basis. You should not damage the 
halyard. There are different kinds of ascenders (like there are different kinds 
of clutches); some are gentle on the rope, others not so much. However, most of 
the ascenders are designed to be used regularly on the rope, so they should not 
make any significant damage to the halyard.

One other thing, if you never tried it before, train for it like with anything 
else. I would not suggest that the trip straight to the top of the mast is the 
best thing to do on the first try. And if you try it first, think  not only how 
you are going to go up, but also how you are planning to come down (the latter 
might be more tricky).

Good luck

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 22:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo


I've been reading this discussion with some interest - while I have sent one 
kid up the mast I don't expect my 14 yr old to manage more complex tasks.

I know about using dynamic ropes for climbing - but how do you get the dynamic 
rope up the mast to act as a safety line? And what line are you climbing?

Should I be concerned about wear on my halyards using ascenders (with I believe 
geared pinch mechanisms)?

For a safely line I know I could use a dynamic rope tied to a halyard and 
hauled up to the top of the mast - but it seems that extra knot brings another 
failure point we'd prefer to avoid.

Plus - if you are climbing alone (nobody is taking up the slack in the safety 
rope) - then I'd guess you need a 3rd ascender for the safety line.

If things go wrong how to you lower yourself with that safety line?

Guess I should read up more on ascenders!

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 2017-03-17 5:05 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

All,
I have been following this discussion with interest since I just 
returned to my southern project boat with a so-far unused ATN Top Climber, and 
intend to use it in the next couple of days. I have taken note in particular to 
the idea of using a loop(s) to stay at the mast. The designer of the device 
however, has at least in the past, suggested securing the static line away from 
the mast because it makes the climb easier. I have not tried it either way, but 
I like the sound of staying at the mast better. Anyone have comments on this 
aspect of using the ATN climbing gear? Obviously the boat would have to be 
pretty steady.

On a separate note regarding fall arrest. I had a conversation one time with an 
accomplished ice climber and asked him what type of line he preferred, nylon or 
low stretch. He seemed to think that I was a complete idiot for even asking the 
question, and maybe I was. Anyway, just to save anyone else who has not thought 
it through from similar embarrassment or injury, you definitely want any line 
that might arrest a fall to be stretchy. Nylon in other words.

I plan therefore to use polyester for the static line, and nylon for any safety 
fall arrest  lines.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:

http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/upmast.jpg

   Working on a topping lift in the Gulf Stream. If you are climbing underway, 
MAKE SURE you have a loop to hold you near the mast. It does not look rough in 
that photo, but the swells at 55 feet up were enough to make it hard to hang 
on, and if you get loose you will hit one or more things pretty hard.

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>


Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 11:19 PM
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-

Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

2017-03-17 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



I've been reading this discussion with some interest - while I have sent 
one kid up the mast I don't expect my 14 yr old to manage more complex 
tasks.


I know about using dynamic ropes for climbing - but how do you get the 
dynamic rope up the mast to act as a safety line? And what line are you 
climbing?


Should I be concerned about wear on my halyards using ascenders (with I 
believe geared pinch mechanisms)?


For a safely line I know I could use a dynamic rope tied to a halyard 
and hauled up to the top of the mast - but it seems that extra knot 
brings another failure point we'd prefer to avoid.


Plus - if you are climbing alone (nobody is taking up the slack in the 
safety rope) - then I'd guess you need a 3rd ascender for the safety line.


If things go wrong how to you lower yourself with that safety line?

Guess I should read up more on ascenders!

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-03-17 5:05 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

All,
   I have been following this discussion with interest since I just 
returned to my southern project boat with a so-far unused ATN Top Climber, and 
intend to use it in the next couple of days. I have taken note in particular to 
the idea of using a loop(s) to stay at the mast. The designer of the device 
however, has at least in the past, suggested securing the static line away from 
the mast because it makes the climb easier. I have not tried it either way, but 
I like the sound of staying at the mast better. Anyone have comments on this 
aspect of using the ATN climbing gear? Obviously the boat would have to be 
pretty steady.

On a separate note regarding fall arrest. I had a conversation one time with an 
accomplished ice climber and asked him what type of line he preferred, nylon or 
low stretch. He seemed to think that I was a complete idiot for even asking the 
question, and maybe I was. Anyway, just to save anyone else who has not thought 
it through from similar embarrassment or injury, you definitely want any line 
that might arrest a fall to be stretchy. Nylon in other words.

I plan therefore to use polyester for the static line, and nylon for any safety 
fall arrest  lines.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

   
 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:

http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/upmast.jpg

  Working on a topping lift in the Gulf Stream. If you are climbing underway, 
MAKE SURE you have a loop to hold you near the mast. It does not look rough in 
that photo, but the swells at 55 feet up were enough to make it hard to hang 
on, and if you get loose you will hit one or more things pretty hard.

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 


Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 11:19 PM
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo
  


I use the same ascenders with my own concoction of straps but unlike the fellow in 
the “atninc" ad I prefer a bosun’s chair to a  climbing harness.  Plenty of 
pockets for tools and your vitals don’t go numb.  These allow you to actually climb 
above the top of the mast so you can work readily on mast top fittings.

Rick

Paikea37+

On Mar 16, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ryan — many on the list prefer a standard climbing harness and ascenders for 
this type of job.  I personally prefer to sit while working for long periods of 
time, so I use the ATN TopClimber (now called the “MastClimber”): 
http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimber-sailing-equipment.shtml

I’ve had very good luck with this equipment; in a previous life as a marine 
electronics installer, I spent a LOT of time up masts, and always felt safe and 
comfortable.

  YMMV…

  — Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

2016-12-06 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I had watched that video series years ago - but it was good to go
  back a re-read the comments.
The epoxy putty my friend used cured underwater - so he was able
  to hold it in place and get a fair seal (smaller diameter hole
  likely made it easier as well)

Dennis - I had heard of the toilet bowl wax ring idea before -
  but thanks for the reminder --- I'd hate to try and clean the
  surface after the wax but I bet it would do a pretty good job of
  stemming water flow.
The other recommendation I got from another friend who lost his
  stuffing box entering a rough inlet is a rubber tire tube and zip
  ties -- he was able to get a passable seal that allowed him to
  sail to a marina

I've never had reason to use my bungs or plugs - but I'll add a
  couple wax rings, inner tube, and epoxy putty for a little extra
  insurance.


Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-12-06 10:23 AM, Marek Dziedzic
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  

  Have you seen this: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/sailing-skills/crash-test-boat-holed-sinking-2-29668
   
  It is an interesting test with some useful advice.
   
  There must be somewhere a PDF of it (I have it), but I
cannot find it. And they have some interesting videos, as
well. On other topics, as well.
   
  Marek
  

   
  
From: Dennis
C. via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, December 5, 2016 23:13
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty
  

 
  
  

  Also keep a couple of toilet bowl wax rings on board
for plugging that odd shaped hole.

  
  Anybody tried Forespar's Sta-Plug?

http://www.forespar.com/products/sta-plug.shtml
  
   
  Dennis C.


   
  On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 5:58 PM,
        Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

  
  Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part
  putty that you mix together
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
  
  I was talking to a friend the other day - he was
  telling me how he wrapped a line around his prop and
  jammed his strut up into the hull.  He discovered a
  small fountain of water coming in.
  
  He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together
  to start the reaction and mashed it in around the
  damaged area  - he then held it in place with his
  hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water
  stopped - so he mixed up a bit more and was able to
  stop all the incoming water.  Confident enough that he
  left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it hauled
  a day or 2 later for repairs.
  
  I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on
  the boat for emergencies.
  
  Mark
  
  
  BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair -
  my friend had nothing but great things to say about
  the workmanship -- I believe Jamie is  C+C lister Mike
  Amirault's son.
  
  
  -- 
  
  
  
  There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the
  interval.
    - George Santayana
  
  
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Stus-List Epoxy Putty

2016-12-05 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix 
together


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he 
wrapped a line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  
He discovered a small fountain of water coming in.


He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the 
reaction and mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in 
place with his hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water 
stopped - so he mixed up a bit more and was able to stop all the 
incoming water.  Confident enough that he left the boat on a mooring 
overnight and had it hauled a day or 2 later for repairs.


I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for 
emergencies.


Mark


BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had 
nothing but great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie 
is  C+C lister Mike Amirault's son.



--



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Last sail

2016-11-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Mike,

My boat is a CS 30. Named Prosecco.
Small world - a friend suggested that if I need any fiberglass
  work done that I should use Jamie at SWM.  Apparently his work is
  top notch.

Boat is hauled as of Monday -- now it's time to cover her up for
  another winter.
Cheers,
Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-11-02 12:58 PM, mike amirault
  via CnC-List wrote:


  

  Yes, Mark Bodnar, that probably was was “Lovely Cruise”
you saw going out on Sunday and arriving at SWM around 4 –
4:15. We headed out from SMSC towards the western shore,
then tacked back between the islands to SWM.
  What is the name of your boat?  
  P.S. My son, Jamie works at SWM
   
  Mike Amirault
  C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
  SMSC

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Last sail

2016-11-01 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


Mike,
Did you sail out from SMSC towards Peggy's cove, then turn and
  head back to Shining Waters?
I only saw one other boat in the Bay (although near the end I did
  see another sail in the distance).  It must have been you --
  passed me right after I blew out the mainsheet shackle.  I arrived
  at 4:30.
Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-10-31 4:12 PM, mike amirault
  via CnC-List wrote:


  

  Had my last sail yesterday too, from SMSC to Shining
Waters.  Not sure if I was the boat that passed you or not,
I do have the original C&C emblem and sail # 73. We
arrived approx 4pm.
   
  Mike Amirault
  C&C33ii  sail # 73 Lovely Cruise
  SMSC

  
  
  
  
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Stus-List Last sail

2016-10-30 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Had my final sail of the season today - from Deep Cove in Mahone Bay 
around to Shining Waters in St. Margaret's Bay -- about 23 NMw


Wind was brisk, gusting maybe a bit above 20kts.  First ever solo sail 
for me.  Went pretty well - except for the big bang when my shackle on 
my mainsheet traveller let go with a reefed main up.  I was able to drop 
the sail and tie down the boom.


Unrolled jib and was able to continue without too much disruption.

Got passed by a C+C heading up the Bay - maybe someone from this list? 
Didn't think to get the sail number - but had a C+C emblem on the main


Boat get hauled tomorrow.


Mark


--



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

2016-09-21 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Dave,

Thanks for the info.  I have my new Raymarine EV-100 autopilot sitting 
in a box at home waiting to be installed - I too got the email 
indicating there was a wonderful software upgrade, with better course 
management etc etc etc.  I looked into the info far enough to see that I 
didn't have the right gear to use the update and gave up.


In my case the boat only has speed and depth (from the 80's) -- I 
figured that Raymarine is the most likely ecosystem as I add future gear 
- so the Raymarine auto pilot made sense.


I agree with the frustration of proprietary systems - but it seems we 
don't learn these issues until we've already paid to play.  One thing 
I've learned from other listers here is that I'm better off with one 
manufacturer rather than trying to mate together systems.



Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-09-20 11:44 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able to 
update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject line'). 
 Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other means at 
the network level or at the device, but didn't.

Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:

'- software revision
Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah
Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
manuals.'

That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy new 
autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing them to 
the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail seems to 
have been omitted...

It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   I'll  
figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and their 
people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, the more 
convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, irrespective of how 
one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The manual ices it.). Anyway, 
now we know, as will others who read the discussion.

I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.

Mic drop... ;-)

Dave




Message: 3
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2016 00:02:16 +
From: G Collins 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
autopilot business!
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"


You Ray haters kill me...   just kidding!  But sometimes it pays to read
the manual before you buy, and they are all available online these days.

That Garmin thing is a cool solution, I like it.  The Navico (B&G)
version doesn't seem to be available anywhere, so that may have been a
possible route to firmware updates but no longer...

I guess my conclusion early on was to get a MDF that goes with the big
electronics on the boat, so my a75 MDF can update my EV200 autopilot.
And IMHO it makes sense to have the same brand of anyway, so that you
are sure they will work together as best they can.  My wind/speed/depth
system, since it is B&G, is essentially orphaned.  I'm not so concerned
with that.  And I am quite happy with my Raymarine gear, whereas I've
had two Triton displays malfunction on me in the same 3 seasons.

As to why you can't update one companies gear from another companies
MDF, I can't see any company signing up for that - say I update my B&G
firmware over my Ray MDF, and next thing my Triton displays are bricks -
who do I call to get it resolved? That would not be a fun day.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Hard starting

2016-08-23 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

How hard would it be to switch the batteries?
If the problem follows the battery then you know it's the battery
itself
If the problem stays with the battery setting then it must be in
the wiring

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2016-08-23 11:42 AM, Dave via
CnC-List wrote:

Second that, load test the battery first for sure, check the
cables.
I had two high resistance grounds
that caused issues. One, a stud on the back of a gauge, the
other, the main engine harness ground, a bolt below the starter.
Disassemble, clean, grease. No problems since.
The battery cables themselves were
grounded to the engine via the large transmission bolts. I
ended up installing a ground bus and sorting/organizing and
labelling the lot so I know what's where, that it's good, and
can be easily inspected.

Dave

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2016 07:47:34 -0400
From: Joel Aronson
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard starting
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Start with the battery and dirty battery cable/connection.

Joel
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff

2016-08-17 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this
  list - so I depend on learning from more experienced sailors. 
  This group is part of that, plus I pay for a membership with
  Attainable Cruising Adventure - https://www.morganscloud.com/ -
  lots of great info that has been tried and tested in challenging
  climates (including an extensive discussion on jacklines and
  tethers)

On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the
  effects are pretty minimal.  This article is offered as evidence
  of the calculations.  Chain still offers some benefits, just not
  so much in catenary effect.

http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php



Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santana
On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
Chuck,
Avoiding
chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most
important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock
absorbsion.   By allowing some of the chain to lie on the
ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the
chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a
shock absorber to wave, wind, or current.  Also, using chain
on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat
shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that
your anchor will break free.
Using
only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very
little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope
is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. 
If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I
had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to
manage those loads.
On
  Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to
  200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb
  CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and
  weight of the boat).  We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of
  water where we sail although we might rethink that if we
  decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia.
 
Chuck
  Gilchrest
S/V
  Half Magic
1983
  Landfall 35
Padanaram,
  MA


  

   


   


   


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list is supported by the generous donations of our
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Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

2016-07-26 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  


I have a patient who was hit twice by lightning.  Once in her
  house - it hit a tree outside, part of the bolt bounced off, came
  through her window and hit her in the back of the head while she
  was sitting in a chair.  No reason - other than you can't
  effectively predict what is going to happen.

From what I've read there is so much energy flowing within a
  lightning bolt that it's jumping along any path it can find. Even
  if you offer a grounded path there can be enough excess flow that
  will skip off the path and damage surrounding areas.  Or if the
  grounding wire is not straight some of the electricity won't be
  able to follow the curve of the wire and will jump to other areas
  (thus I'm not thinking stainless chain would offer the best
  grounding path).
I don't have a good solution.  I'm interested in learning more
  from the discussion.



Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-07-26 2:10 PM, S Thomas via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  I know a guy who has a length of
  stainless steel chain stored on deck and connected to the
  shrouds on each side of the boat. He dumps the chain in the
  water when he thinks it appropriate. His boat was hit by
  lightning in the past, but not since he got the chains, so he
  does not really know how good it works. 
   
  My big fear would be having the
  lightning blow out through the transducers and or thru hulls,
  which has been know to happen. Probably nothing will save the
  electronics, except maybe a portable radio stored in the oven,
  but the extra conductors might carry away enough energy to
  prevent a boat-sinking hole in the hull. At least that is the
  theory. There are a lot of sailboats that have been hit by
  lightning which failed to sink. That nothing reliable in
  terms of protection knowledge has come out of all of these
  close calls only goes to show how much luck is involved.  
   
  Last week a soft ball player in
  Nova Scotia was hit and survived. As she reached out to open
  the door on a storage shed, the shed was struck by lightning.
  The current went up her arm and out her foot, with only minor
  burns to the surface of her skin, but her clothing was "blown
  to bits". After a night's observation in hospital, she
  reported still feeling weak from having all her muscles
  contracted, but otherwise ok.
   
  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  Port Stanley, ON
  
- Original Message - 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Sent: Tuesday, July 26,
  2016 12:16
Subject: Re: Stus-List
  Grounding a mast - 30mki


Thanks to Joe and everyone else who replied. 
  After reading a few articles like this one - http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/-11222-1.html,
  it sounds like there is little consensus on lightning
  protection for sailboats.  I'd be curious to know what sort of
  lightning protection, if any, comes standard on new boats from
  the well-regarded manufacturers of heavy displacement cruisers
  like Hallberg Rassy etc.  I just searched the manual for a new
  HR boat and there's no mention of lightning or lightning
  protection at all.
  
  
  Someone raised the point on one forum that inviting this
massive amount of energy into your boat is a bad idea (IE a
cable going from the mast to a keel bolt).  Not sure whether
this is a well-founded concern or not, but I'm leaning
towards Joe's idea of clipping some jumpstart cables to the
shrouds and hanging them overboard next time I'm caught out
in a storm.  

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

2016-06-16 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Absolutely - but my hourly rate might be a bit shocking.


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-16 3:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Mark

Can you come and check out my truck?

I think I have a voltage leak somewhere underneath in one of the many wiring 
bundles ..

Mike
2008 Silverado 1500
(Yet to be named)
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem


I appreciate all the advice.  Had some nicer weather (finally) so I drove down 
to the boat this morning.  Couple hours of mucking around and I got it sorted.

I was able to get the engine to crank over when I hot wired the solenoid, and 
the multimeter was showing power to the starter/solenoid.

That left me thinking something was wrong in my panel - corroded looking plugs 
but no response from cleaning a few or from wiggling contacts around.

Brief call to mechanic and he suggested the fuse box on top of the engine would 
be the culprit (given the blower was not running either).
I had already checked fuses and resistance was OK - but after some digging I 
found the outgoing wire was badly corroded and had a break hidden up underneath 
where it went into the wiring harness (variable voltage readings when I moved 
wire around).

Quick fix was to cut the wire - clean up the ends and splice it back together 
with a butt connector - engine fired right up!


Thanks for the help

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 2016-06-07 3:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned
on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather
intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the
tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the
culprit).

I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground
wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.

I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:

Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that
need to get done.

Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything
was running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely
nothing) from turning the key.


Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power
to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.

I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a
few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had
shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on
the starter solenoid (?).

That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off
to clean contact but no effect.


I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized

3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires
connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected


I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!


Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd
get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If
nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?

I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the
ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which
wires are needed

Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try
to spin the starter/solenoid directly?


The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

2016-06-16 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



I appreciate all the advice.  Had some nicer weather (finally) so I 
drove down to the boat this morning.  Couple hours of mucking around and 
I got it sorted.


I was able to get the engine to crank over when I hot wired the 
solenoid, and the multimeter was showing power to the starter/solenoid.


That left me thinking something was wrong in my panel - corroded looking 
plugs but no response from cleaning a few or from wiggling contacts around.


Brief call to mechanic and he suggested the fuse box on top of the 
engine would be the culprit (given the blower was not running either).  
I had already checked fuses and resistance was OK - but after some 
digging I found the outgoing wire was badly corroded and had a break 
hidden up underneath where it went into the wiring harness (variable 
voltage readings when I moved wire around).


Quick fix was to cut the wire - clean up the ends and splice it back 
together with a butt connector - engine fired right up!



Thanks for the help

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-07 3:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned 
on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather 
intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the 
tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the 
culprit).


I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground 
wires.


No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.


I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that 
need to get done.


Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything 
was running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely 
nothing) from turning the key.



Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power 
to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.


I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a 
few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had 
shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on 
the starter solenoid (?).


That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off 
to clean contact but no effect.



I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized


3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires 
connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected



I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!



Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd 
get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If 
nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?


I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the 
ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which 
wires are needed


Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try 
to spin the starter/solenoid directly?



The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

2016-06-08 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Thx - I'll look for that and clean it
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2016-06-07 8:44 PM, Dave via
CnC-List wrote:

Your description has me 90% certain
you have a bad ground from the wiring harness to the engine.
On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or above
the stArter iirc. Your multimeter may fool you as you are
getting some conductivity. Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that
grounding point first, save yourself some time.
Note - since you are near the 12v
feed to the starter, be careful when you work...
Dave.

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:42:53 -0300
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Message-ID: <914ac484-43d2-9fd4-fb72-4fe87cccf...@accesswave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat
this
weekend. I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan
turned on
when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather
intermittent
and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach
is
intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the
culprit).

I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the
ground wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich"
(stops you
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill
switch" - not
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine
manual.

I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's
not working

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

2016-06-07 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on 
when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent 
and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is 
intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit).


I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.


I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that 
need to get done.


Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) 
from turning the key.



Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power 
to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.


I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a 
few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken 
loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the 
starter solenoid (?).


That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to 
clean contact but no effect.



I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized


3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires 
connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected



I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!



Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd 
get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing 
then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?


I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the 
ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires 
are needed


Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to 
spin the starter/solenoid directly?



The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Stus-List Starting Problem

2016-06-05 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need 
to get done.


Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
turning the key.



Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to 
the radio when trying to turn over the engine.


I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken 
loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the 
starter solenoid (?).


That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to 
clean contact but no effect.



I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized


3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected 
as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected



I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!



Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get 
a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then 
it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?


I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition 
key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed


Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to 
spin the starter/solenoid directly?



The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List composting head

2016-05-10 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I put in a composting head last year. Really like it. I will
admit it adds a bit of an extra challenge when having guests
because you need to explain the process a little --- but not
really that much different that a manual toilet that requires a
lesson for toilet use. Some people find it a little "gross".
I put in a Natures Head. Works well. No flies in the first
year. Less smell than my old toilet. I've not yet completely
removed my old hoses - as I wanted to make sure before I removed
the seacocks.

One suggestion (that I have yet to employ) is to put a small 12V
pump (say a car windshield washer fluid pump) on a switch to pump
the liquids out of the small tank and into the sink drain pipe.
That solve the problem of carrying a jug of urine around and
dumping it.

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2016-05-10 2:12 PM, Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List wrote:

Does
anyone have a composting head?
I
am really thinking about this – the 35 MK I really has
no room for much of a holding tank.

Joe
Coquina
C&C
35 MK I with a small holding tank

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

2016-04-20 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Richard,
Thanks for the advice.  I may go that way.  I was thinking my
install should be pretty simple with a wheel pilot - but maybe I
just don't know what I'm getting into?!?!?

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-04-20 8:59 AM, Richard N. Bush
  via CnC-List wrote:

I can't for Fred, but I can speak
  for myselfI researched autopilot units until I was blue in
  the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he was
  on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and
  began assembly, I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful
  suggestions to the point where I don't think I could have done
  it without him...he took the time to listen to my questions
  (posed in a not-so-clear fashion I'm sure)...and offered
  suggestions; he was insightful about my particular boat
  because he has one (I have a 37, Fred has a 38)...and he was
  able to discern when there was a real problem from when I just
  wasn't understanding the written directions; so, if price
  is the only object, then shop on...but if you want the unit to
  work, call Fred  
 

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37; CB Ohio River, Mile 596;
  Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255
  
 

 

-Original
  Message-
  From: Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: Mark Bodnar 
  Sent: Wed, Apr 20, 2016 7:18 am
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel
  install
  
  

  I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a
little more than Defender. 
  As for Fred - he can jump in
if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages where
he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar
items. 
  Mark

--
 Mark Bodnar
CS30 - Prosecco


  
  
  

  
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Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

2016-04-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



An autopilot has been high on my list as the next big upgrade.  I missed 
the boat show special, figured I had too many other jobs to complete so 
I was going to let it go.
But I just saw that Raymarine EV-100 autopilot is on sale - plus they 
are Raymarine is offering a $300 prepaid Amex card for rebate.


Canadian dollar has rebounded a bit (but Canadian pricing has not kept 
pace) so buying from Defender would save me another $250 even after 
paying for shipping.


In the end I can get the autopilot for ~$1600 cdn -- think I'm going to 
go for it.  Does anyone know if there are extra duties on one crossing 
the border?
I've read the comments about where to install the control unit.  Any 
other advice?


Also planning on installing solar panel (120W) -- figure total wire run 
of 20 ft - online calculator says 10 gauge wire should work. Any extra 
thoughts? Like what should I use to fuse the panel (or fuse the autopilot).


I'd like to order everything at once from Defender and minimize shipping 
costs.


Thanks,
Mark

--

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Additional forward bilge pump

2016-04-14 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Can you drill out a small limber hole? Allow the water from the
forward bilge to drain back to the main bilge.
If the hole is small it's won't let a torrent of water through if
there is a major leak forward - but should allow the small amount to
drip through and into the main bilge.
Hole might get blocked with debris occasionally but not too hard to
clean out if you leave a small stick to jab in clear.

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
On 2016-04-14 12:29 PM, Ryan Doyle via
CnC-List wrote:

Hey listers,

I know I have been posting lots of questions recently,
so thank you for your insight and suggestions. It's
much appreciated.

My 1976 C&C 30mki accumulates water in a forward bilge
compartment that is very hard to access.

My bilge pump is aft of the mast step, and while it does a
good job of pumping out that area, I routinely end up with
a couple gallons of water in that forward bilge that I
pump out by hand.

I'd like to rig a utility pump or a bilge pump to suck the
water out of that forward compartment. It would be nice if
it was automatic, but a switch is fine too.

The two setups I'm considering:

1 - I buy a very small bilge pump (ideally with an internal
automatic switch) and try to squeeze it down there... possibly
having to cut some of the cabin sole out and repair it <---
but I don't really want to do that.

2 - I buy a 12V utility pump and run a bilge hose down into that
forward bilge and connect the outflow to my current bilge hose.
I switch it on when water accumulates in there.

Has anyone done anything like this? Anyone have a better
solution for keeping that forward area dry?

Ryan

Nobody's Bargain

1976 C&C 30mki

New York

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Re: Stus-List GPS

2016-04-04 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Yes

I have Navionics on 2 tablets (both Android - neither with cellular 
connection or capability) - I can see my location, speed, heading etc on 
the app.  IPad should be exactly the same as long as you have the 
cellular/GPS capability.


Mark




There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - 
George Santayana

On 2016-04-04 10:44 AM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List wrote:

I should have qualified the question, we downloaded Navionics, our I pad does 
not have GPS, therefore, no ship icon!   Will it appear on this app, if we 
purchase this I pad with GPS, but without a phone plan!

Sent from my iPad


On Apr 4, 2016, at 10:11 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

iPad with cellular, doesn't need a phone subscription for the GPS to work.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List GPS

2016-04-04 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Pretty much all Android tablets have built in GPS -- a lot of cheaper 
options that are less concerning if they get wet.
One nice bonus - if you buy the Navionics app for one tablet - then all 
android devices that use the same account can use the app.



As I understand from previous discussions on this list - Apple has the 
GPS components on the tied to the cellular network components --- so 
iPad needs to be cellular capable to access GPS.


Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-04-04 9:32 AM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List wrote:

Someone had posted a list of tablets that had GPS built in, that did not need 
phone service .  Could you list them again, please!
Jim McDonald

C&C 44
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John, NB

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

2016-03-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

A friend was telling me about his packing gland failure while sailing
into a quiet anchorage in the BVI's. Motoring through a channel solo he
suddenly noticed water coming above the floor boards.
A frantic anchor drop he was pumping to get ahead of the water and
trying to figure out where the water was coming from.
He stemmed most of the flow with a bicycle inner tube wrapped around the
gland and cranked tight with a couple of hose clamps. Was able to stay
the night with a bit of hand pumping, got towed out of the channel the
next morning and sailed to a marina.
He suggested that everyone should have a couple lengths of bicycle tire
tube and pipe clamps avail.

Reminds me that I need to add that to my kit.

Mark

-
Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc.,D.C.,FCCPOR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.BedfordChiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 2016-03-02 8:26 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All the C&C
owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a pretty wide
latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty good, but there is no hose more
critical to the survival of the vessel and mine failed. Fortunately it was a the dock that
the failure occurred, and while inconvenient and very expensive for an emergency haul out at
this particular marina, there was never any real danger either to my person or the vessel. It
could have been very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not easy to stem the leak.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

2015-10-27 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Sounds pretty crazy.  I'm also interested in learning from these
experiences.

I've wondered about the exhaust taking on water - any reason why a
simple flapper valve 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349040|2349046&id=1734530
doesn't work? Maybe not a good enough seal in the rough water?
I'd be concerned about forgetting to open the seacock or ball valve.

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-10-27 3:50 PM, David Paine via
  CnC-List wrote:


  Hi All,


As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life
  rafts, I had planned to sail  my C&C33-1  solo to Bermuda
  and back (double handed) in the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It
  was fun, it was terrifying, it was expensive to prepare for,
  and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl) in my class
  in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf
  stream probably favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my
  class but mostly because I was climbing a steep learning
  curve.   Of course, a C&C35-1 won the return and did well
  on the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor not the
  boat.  In preparation for the next one, I need to resolve a
  few issues with the boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was
  putting together a list that I thought I would share.


(1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I
  thought my below deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a
  result I found myself upside down in the cockpit locker and
  crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in horrible
  conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to
  slip (no woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of
  time bobbing around with the sails down repairing the
  autopilot or sleeping.   The fix for this one is obvious but
  will require dismantling the quadrant and figuring out how to
  bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the autopilot
  were completely my own fault as I made changes to the
  electronics but did not have time to proof test the changes.  


(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and
  it did repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get
  wet.  This is not good as the switches will (and did) fail, I
  am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.


(3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and
  into the engine.  As a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor
  and up to the customs dock then I spent a day in Bermuda
  sucking water out of the engine and drying it out enough to
  get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in the
  exhaust pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing
  machine like conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into
  the Newport Yacht Club dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then
  spend another day pumping oily water out of the engine.  Yeah,
  slow learner.  


(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the
  starboard side but by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had
  a quart of water in it (which I siphoned out).  Good filters
  (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the
  question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip
  I wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I
  would have removed)   A better solution is needed.


(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too
  much time screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef
  and shake-out.  My current reefing system (probably original
  to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the first
  reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the
  last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
  a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the
  cockpit.


(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might
  be nice.  My new furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50%
  and that really has screwed up the shape of my formerly new
  and now blown out 130.


(7) The boat was reasonably dry inside (a result of hours
  of rebedding hardware) but somehow the mast collar leaked like
  a sieve.  The boot looks perfect so it has to be the where the
  Al collar (mast partners) meets the deck -- who would have
  thought that the one place I didn't rebed would be a problem!

Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

2015-10-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
Marek,

Unfortunately not looking likely.  Best price I've found is Marine
Outfitters $1799.  Vs Binnacle $1899 or Defender $1599 US (which is
$2100 plus international shipping).

Guess the grand ideas can wait!

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-10-19 4:45 PM, Marek Dziedzic
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  

  Mark,
   
  if you find an autopilot for under $1000, let me know.
Defender had (still has?) a boat show special, but even with
their discounts, when you add the conversion to CAD, it is a
lot of money. Not to mention that if you buy at Binnacle you
have someone local to yell at, if anything goes wrong.
   
  I don’t think Garmin has a wheel option; they are all (?)
suing a linear drive (I think).
   
  Marek
  

   
  
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar
        via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2015 3:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar

Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale Tools
  

 
  
  
Steve,
I'm interested to know how it works out.
I could use new instruments (mine are just original depth
and speed from 1986) - plus I've been hankering for a
autopilot.
That site is selling a Raymarine SPX-5 Wheelpilot for $675
(vs $1900 for a EV-100 kit from Binnacle).  http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Raymarine-SPX%252d5-Wheelpilot-Pack-with-p70.html

From what I can find the SPX-5 is ~7yrs old.  Any thoughts
from the group on the value of newer technology? I could add
the ST60 pack for $659 (rather than $1800 for a current
set). and still spend less than I was thinking for just an
autopilot. -- I'm guessing it's smarter to match the
Raymarine autopilot with the Raymarine instruments rather
than the Garmin.

Both use the NMEA2000 and SeaTalk - so they should work
together and with other gear.

Any thoughts?  If it's just older gear at a good price then
might be a good deal.. Ok  - A little searching for
reviews looks like the site is bogus.  
Just for interest I tried entering an order using fake
address etc - they want a bank transfer sent - do not accept
credit cards or even PayPal!

Shoot.  Enough to get my hopes up.

Mark
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-10-19 10:19 AM, Stevan
  Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:


  I'm actually considering this:
http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Garmin-Ultimate-Sailing-Bundle-GWS%252dDST800%252d3-GMI.html

 
My concern is just the reputation of the vendor,
  not so much the product.
 
Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto/Midland
 
  
  
 
On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:00
  AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:
  

  
Sorry – just re-read this. 
Thought the prices were from Defender.  
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2015
9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike

  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

  


  
 
Steve
 
The ST60 instruments are
very reliable.  At  that price you
should stop thinking and s

Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

2015-10-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Steve,
I'm interested to know how it works out.
I could use new instruments (mine are just original depth and speed
from 1986) - plus I've been hankering for a autopilot.
That site is selling a Raymarine SPX-5 Wheelpilot for $675 (vs $1900
for a EV-100 kit from Binnacle). 
http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Raymarine-SPX%252d5-Wheelpilot-Pack-with-p70.html

From what I can find the SPX-5 is ~7yrs old.  Any thoughts from the
group on the value of newer technology? I could add the ST60 pack
for $659 (rather than $1800 for a current set). and still spend less
than I was thinking for just an autopilot. -- I'm guessing it's
smarter to match the Raymarine autopilot with the Raymarine
instruments rather than the Garmin.

Both use the NMEA2000 and SeaTalk - so they should work together and
with other gear.

Any thoughts?  If it's just older gear at a good price then might be
a good deal.. Ok  - A little searching for reviews looks like
the site is bogus.  
Just for interest I tried entering an order using fake address etc -
they want a bank transfer sent - do not accept credit cards or even
PayPal!

Shoot.  Enough to get my hopes up.

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-10-19 10:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa
  via CnC-List wrote:


  I'm actually considering this:
http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Garmin-Ultimate-Sailing-Bundle-GWS%252dDST800%252d3-GMI.html



My concern is just the reputation of the vendor, not so
  much the product.


Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto/Midland


  
  
On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Hoyt,
  Mike via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  

  
Sorry
– just re-read this.  Thought the prices were from
Defender. 
  
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2015 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike

  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

  


  
 
Steve
 
The
ST60 instruments are very reliable.  At  that
price you should stop thinking and start
spending.  You will not regret it
 
IMO
the ST60 series is more robust and superior to
the newer i50/i60 (which we have)
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of dwight veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2015 1:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale Tools
 

  
Steve
  
  I have had the st 60 pack on
Alianna for 7 or 8 years now and I really like
it, big numbers easy to read and no big issues
with any component yet.  that is a very good
price


  
  
  

  

  
Dwight Veinot
  
  C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's
  Bay, NS

  d.ve...@bellaliant.net


   

  

  
   
  
On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at
  2:47 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

2015-10-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List





Or just try Walmart/Radio Shack/Best Buy - anything from $50 to $250 
depending on how fancy you want and how big you want the screen.


I have an Acer Android tablet that I bought at Costco - maybe $100 cdn 
for 7" screen - has GPS (but no cell acess).  Works great.  Able to buy 
Navionics through the Google Play store for $15 and then I can load it 
up onto my other tablet as well for no extra fee


Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana



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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

2015-09-30 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Realized that I made an error - I was not referring to the leach, I
actually meant the luff (sorry - my nautical terms are not.
Sail is hard to hoist fully to get the luff tight.  Maybe if I
raised the boom with the topping lift it would be easier to fully
hoist -- which would then mean I would need to go back and loosen
the topping lift every time.  I'll have to play with it a bit.
Same I guess when I reef - raising the boom with the topping lift
would make it easier to snug down the reef point.  The rigid vang
would save the extra step.

Thanks for all the info.  I'm tempted to go with the Garhauer rigid
vang, get rid of my topping lift completely - but I'll need to
decide if that makes it to the top of my list or not.

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-09-29 7:38 PM, Jeffrey Nelson
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  I have a Garhauer ridgid vang as well.  Love it to death.  I
  eliminated my topping lift all together with it.  When I'm at the
  dock, I take the main halyard off and attach it to where the
  topping lift used to be to snug up.  Keeps halyard from slapping
  the
  mast and keeps the rigid vang from making spring noises as the
  boat bounces a bit.
  
  If you keep your topping lift, you need the ability to slack it
  off quite a bit so your mainsheet can pull down as much as the 
  sail will allow...
  
  -- 
Cheers,
      Jeff Nelson
      Muir Caileag
      C&C 30
      Armdale Y.C.
      Halifax
     
  
  -Original Message----- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang 


Thinking about projects for the boat. 
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go
with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a
rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's
better to 
combine shipping. 
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for
downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping
lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear) 

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack
when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it
comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting
the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before
hoisting?). 

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with
them? 
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time
savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more? 

Mark 



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.

  - George Santayana 


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Stus-List Rigid vang

2015-09-29 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear)


I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).


Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?  
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?


Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List water missing from somewhere

2015-09-25 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

I do have a mid-wife sailing with me - but I've held firm on keeping
our jobs off the boat!  V-birth are strictly off limits!
--

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-09-25 7:54 PM, Russ &
  Melody via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Good idea on using that area for stowage.
  
  Unless you sail with a mid-wife I don't see much point in having a
  birthing area on the boat. :)
  
  Cheers,
  Russ
  Sweet
  35 mk-1
  east side,
  Vancouver Island where it's finally sunny again
  
  At 10:36 AM 25/09/2015, you wrote:
  Jim,

If your water lines are the original grey tubing then replacing
the lines
are a good idea.  I would also recommend replacing the fill
hose(they get pretty funky and are cheap to replace).   Take
the time to inspect the water tanks. I found a crack midway up
on the
tank in the V-birth.  I removed this tank and now use the
V-birth
space for extra storage.   I am in the process of replacing all
of my lines with Pex.

If you have not yet, check out Wallyâ€™s site:  

  http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/index.htm


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


On Sep 24, 2015, at
  9:58 PM,
  
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
   It might ne time to replace all water lines
  anyway.?

   Doug
  MountjoysvPegasusLF38 hull #4just west of Ballard, WA.   


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Stus-List Reboarding - was Re: - Inflable life jacket - inflation

2015-09-17 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

I've read a lot about people being unable to climb back aboard a
boat (never experienced the issue on anything bigger than an
Albacore).
One recommendation I'm looking to try - a triangular section of
fabric (I'm thinking the head off an old jib) - shackle the bottom
corners to the toe rail and attach the head to a halyard
Get the overboard crew to lay in the hollow of the sail as it bags
down and then winch the halyard.
You automatically get a 2-1 advantage by pulling up only one end in
addition to using gear that is already set on the boat.  Plus the
person is already lying down in the sail and will roll right back in
under the lifelines rather than having to winch them up overtop.

I think my current jib is ready to retire - and maybe this is a
perfect use for the head of the sail.

Interested to hear thoughts from people who have actually tried
different techniques.  I've yet to do MOB drills - it's in the plan,
but never seems to fit the day.

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-09-17 5:31 PM, Graham Collins
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  I did a safety at sea course, which involved spending some quality
  time in the pool wearing full gear and my PFD (inflated).  I found
  it difficult to maneuver with it fully inflated, but could let
  some out and was able to do the required stuff (swim, climb into
  the liferaft) with it on.  For me a crotch strap add-on does make
  it easier as it keeps things lower, I tried it both ways.
  
  As for re-boarding, a ladder isn't much good if it does not get a
  couple of rungs under water - not many of us can lift our body
  weight and wet gear up with our arms, when already exhausted.  We
  also bought a lifesling and have tackle ready in case someone has
  to be hoisted aboard.
  Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
  On 2015-09-17 2:53 PM, Jim Reinardy
via CnC-List wrote:
  
  




  This is a bit of a tangent, but I wanted to get some
feedback on a recent event in our marina that has a lot of
us talking.
   
  We have some friends that own a cruising boat.  The wife
has been a little hesitant about sailing in part because of
poor swimming ability causing a general fear of water.  She
decided to confront her fears head on by volunteering to do
a live person overboard drill.  We got a bunch of people on
board their boat and enlisted a smaller boat as a chase
boat.  She put on an inflatable life jacket with an expiring
sensor and jumped in the water in the harbor.  It was at the
end of a stretch of hot weather so there were fewer fears
about hypothermia and the waves were negligible, which is as
good as it gets for Lake Michigan.  
   
  The PFD inflated immediately and brought her to the surface
just fine, but she found that the inflated bladder pretty
much immobilized her.  She could not lift her head properly
or move her arms to maneuver to the throwables in the
water.  One of the people in the chase boat ultimately
jumped in to get her over to her boat and we got her back up
on deck, but it was a more tense process than any of us
expected.  Our friend confronting her fears was actually
satisfied with the result, she was able to remain calm and
ultimately got back on the boat without injury, but it
raised some doubts about inflatable PFD’s with the rest of
us.
   
  Anyone have experience with actually deploying an
inflatable PFD?  Were you able to maneuver?  Did you need to
partially deflate the bladder?
   
  As a side note, we have gone looking for a good quality
non-inflatable PFD with a harness and crotch strap, which is
becoming a requirement for some races now and pretty much
came up empty at this point.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Jim Reinardy
  C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
  Milwaukee, WI 
   
   
  Sent from Mail
for Windows 10
   
   
  

  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 5:08 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Kevin Driscoll
  Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with
  harness recommendation
  
   
   
  
My Kong tether has snap shackle for
self eject.

Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

2015-09-10 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

The Yacht Shop in Halifax has an original Mk 1 swivel in the parts
bin.
$175.  Half the cost of new and not much different that the cost of
replacing the bearings and clips (over $1/bearing online)
I'll have to remove the bottom of the furler, drum etc to take off
the old and replace.

Relatively painless (he says BEFORE attempting replacement).  Thanks
for the advice.

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-09-09 5:59 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar
      via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  First thing I did was take the spinniker halyard off the mast clip
  and move it around the spreader and over to the lifelines - but
  that didn't solve the issue.
  
  i think the locking clip came partially loose (maybe it caught on
  something) - and from then on it was gradually pushing itself out
  as I was furling and unfurling.
  
  Couldn't get the right people at North Sails today - but should
  talk to them in the morning
  
  Mark
  
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-09-09 1:53 AM, Martin DeYoung
via CnC-List wrote:
  
  



  Calypso's spin halyard will tangle if it is not secured
against the mast before un-furling the headsail.  I'm not
sure if it contacts the swivel itself or the sail's head.
   
  I use a ATN spin sock which allows the spin to be snuffed
close to the leeward mark.  When the spin is hoisted and
flying the sock itself covers the upper swivel and would
foul it if the headsail is roller out while the spin is
flying.
   
  I have not yet figured out a way to roll out the headsail
until the spin halyard is all the way aft but I have gotten
faster at clearing the halyard off the sock/spin and back to
the mast.
   
  Martin
  Calypso
  1971 C&C43
  Seattle
   
  From:
  CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
  on behalf of D Harben via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
  Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 7:59 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: D Harben
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

  
  

  
Spin halyard 
  

  




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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

2015-09-09 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

First thing I did was take the spinniker halyard off the mast clip
and move it around the spreader and over to the lifelines - but that
didn't solve the issue.

i think the locking clip came partially loose (maybe it caught on
something) - and from then on it was gradually pushing itself out as
I was furling and unfurling.

Couldn't get the right people at North Sails today - but should talk
to them in the morning

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-09-09 1:53 AM, Martin DeYoung
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
Calypso's spin halyard will tangle if it is not secured
  against the mast before un-furling the headsail.  I'm not sure
  if it contacts the swivel itself or the sail's head.
 
I use a ATN spin sock which allows the spin to be snuffed
  close to the leeward mark.  When the spin is hoisted and
  flying the sock itself covers the upper swivel and would foul
  it if the headsail is roller out while the spin is flying.
 
I have not yet figured out a way to roll out the headsail
  until the spin halyard is all the way aft but I have gotten
  faster at clearing the halyard off the sock/spin and back to
  the mast.
 
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C43
Seattle
 
From: CnC-List
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of D Harben via
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: D Harben
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure
  


  

  Spin halyard 

  

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

2015-09-08 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Before everything went to hell I was looking closely at the head of the 
furler -- had my binoc's out etc.  Couldn't see the halyard wrapping.
After I dropped the sail and put it back up I tensioned it a bit extra 
just to make sure that was not it - no help.  Maybe it was the problem?  
Furler has worked like a charm for last 2 summers - but last 2 weeks has 
been catching on something - not sure what, but I couldn't see the 
halyard wrapping.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-09-08 9:47 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List wrote:

Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so I figured I was catching 
something up top.  Re-taped halyard and ran the jib back up to test - stuck 
again part way out then all of a sudden it was raining small bearings...

Any chance a wrapped halyard put enough pressure on the top spring clip?

Calypso's Harken furler would act like it was jammed when the halyard used to 
occasionally wrap around the top of the extrusion.  I adjusted the sail hoist 
slightly to shorten the amount of exposed halyard and eliminated the wrap 
issues.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 9:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure



Had a catastrophic failure of my Harken roller furler today.

Last 3 times out the furler has been sticking a bit - thought it got better 
with tightening my backstay, but then same problem again.
Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so I figured I was catching 
something up top.  Re-taped halyard and ran the jib back up to test - stuck 
again part way out then all of a sudden it was raining small bearings - And 
no I didn't reef on it or winch it - I was just tugging it looking to see where 
is was catching and it let go.
Sail dropped with half the top furling mechanism - left the halyard up top with 
the other half of the mechanism.

I've not gone up the mast yet to rescue the remaining parts and halyard
- but I'm pretty sure that there was a top spring clip that let go - when it popped 
out the whole top swivel set just sprayed everywhere.  I rescued a few of the 
bearings - light brown, plastic, 3/8" (9.58mm) -- I think all the other parts 
ring the furler and therefore can't disappear.

So the big question - can I buy new bearings and a spring clip and rebuild the 
swivel in place (assuming that it was the spring clip that failed).  I'm hoping 
I don't need to kick for a whole new furler.
Replacing the whole top swivel would be a pain as I'd have to dismantle the 
furler and the forestay to get the old one off and replaced.


Sorry I didn't get any pic's - was dark on return to the dock and I forgot.

Still had a great sail today - left the dock at 11:30am --- back to the dock at 
11pm.  First time coming back in the dark! Stars out, phosphorecent sparkles in 
the water. And a clean docking!

Mark




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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

2015-09-08 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


Thanks for the quick responses.
I'll check with Harken and with The Yacht Shop here in Halifax about 
replacement parts.


Seems like mine is a Mk 1 - it has a chrome base.

I was hoping it could go back together without removing the forestay - 
but trying to fight 96 little balls to stay still on an angle sounds 
unlikely.  Al - Thanks for the hint about using shaving cream - 5 min to 
replace the balls sounds good - but how long to remove the forestay?


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-09-08 11:37 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Mark

Try North Sails Atlantic (Yacht Shop).  They can order Harken furler parts and 
will likely be  a big help to you on this.  Jamie or Angus should be your first 
contacts

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 1:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure



Had a catastrophic failure of my Harken roller furler today.

Last 3 times out the furler has been sticking a bit - thought it got better 
with tightening my backstay, but then same problem again.
Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so I figured I was catching 
something up top.  Re-taped halyard and ran the jib back up to test - stuck 
again part way out then all of a sudden it was raining small bearings - And 
no I didn't reef on it or winch it - I was just tugging it looking to see where 
is was catching and it let go.
Sail dropped with half the top furling mechanism - left the halyard up top with 
the other half of the mechanism.

I've not gone up the mast yet to rescue the remaining parts and halyard
- but I'm pretty sure that there was a top spring clip that let go - when it popped 
out the whole top swivel set just sprayed everywhere.  I rescued a few of the 
bearings - light brown, plastic, 3/8" (9.58mm) -- I think all the other parts 
ring the furler and therefore can't disappear.

So the big question - can I buy new bearings and a spring clip and rebuild the 
swivel in place (assuming that it was the spring clip that failed).  I'm hoping 
I don't need to kick for a whole new furler.
Replacing the whole top swivel would be a pain as I'd have to dismantle the 
furler and the forestay to get the old one off and replaced.


Sorry I didn't get any pic's - was dark on return to the dock and I forgot.

Still had a great sail today - left the dock at 11:30am --- back to the dock at 
11pm.  First time coming back in the dark! Stars out, phosphorecent sparkles in 
the water. And a clean docking!

Mark




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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

2015-09-08 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Alright - I'll start with them.
I should have taken some pic's but I was a little traumatized!!!
I couldn't see any clear identifying numbers on the base - just a
Harken USA sticker.

Thx,
Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-09-08 9:48 AM, Dennis C. via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
Ditto.  Very good customer service.
  

I suspect the Torlon ball bearings are readily available
  from Harken.  Not sure about any other parts.



Never heard of a swivel failure on a Harken.  Let us known
  how this goes.



Dennis C.
  
  
On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 5:16 AM, Joel
  Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:
  Id call
harken. They are very helpful


Joel
  

  
  On Tuesday, September 8, 2015, Dr. Mark Bodnar via
  CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:
  

Had a catastrophic failure of my Harken roller
furler today.

Last 3 times out the furler has been sticking a bit
- thought it got better with tightening my backstay,
but then same problem again.
Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so
I figured I was catching something up top.  Re-taped
halyard and ran the jib back up to test - stuck
again part way out then all of a sudden it was
raining small bearings - And no I didn't reef on
it or winch it - I was just tugging it looking to
see where is was catching and it let go.
Sail dropped with half the top furling mechanism -
left the halyard up top with the other half of the
mechanism.

I've not gone up the mast yet to rescue the
remaining parts and halyard - but I'm pretty sure
that there was a top spring clip that let go - when
it popped out the whole top swivel set just sprayed
everywhere.  I rescued a few of the bearings - light
brown, plastic, 3/8" (9.58mm) -- I think all the
other parts ring the furler and therefore can't
disappear.

So the big question - can I buy new bearings and a
spring clip and rebuild the swivel in place
(assuming that it was the spring clip that failed). 
I'm hoping I don't need to kick for a whole new
furler.  Replacing the whole top swivel would be a
pain as I'd have to dismantle the furler and the
forestay to get the old one off and replaced.


Sorry I didn't get any pic's - was dark on return to
the dock and I forgot.

Still had a great sail today - left the dock at
11:30am --- back to the dock at 11pm.  First time
coming back in the dark! Stars out, phosphorecent
sparkles in the water. And a clean docking!

Mark

-- 


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy
the interval.
  - George Santayana


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
  
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Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

2015-09-07 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List




Had a catastrophic failure of my Harken roller furler today.

Last 3 times out the furler has been sticking a bit - thought it got 
better with tightening my backstay, but then same problem again.
Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so I figured I was 
catching something up top.  Re-taped halyard and ran the jib back up to 
test - stuck again part way out then all of a sudden it was raining 
small bearings - And no I didn't reef on it or winch it - I was just 
tugging it looking to see where is was catching and it let go.
Sail dropped with half the top furling mechanism - left the halyard up 
top with the other half of the mechanism.


I've not gone up the mast yet to rescue the remaining parts and halyard 
- but I'm pretty sure that there was a top spring clip that let go - 
when it popped out the whole top swivel set just sprayed everywhere.  I 
rescued a few of the bearings - light brown, plastic, 3/8" (9.58mm) -- I 
think all the other parts ring the furler and therefore can't disappear.


So the big question - can I buy new bearings and a spring clip and 
rebuild the swivel in place (assuming that it was the spring clip that 
failed).  I'm hoping I don't need to kick for a whole new furler.  
Replacing the whole top swivel would be a pain as I'd have to dismantle 
the furler and the forestay to get the old one off and replaced.



Sorry I didn't get any pic's - was dark on return to the dock and I forgot.

Still had a great sail today - left the dock at 11:30am --- back to the 
dock at 11pm.  First time coming back in the dark! Stars out, 
phosphorecent sparkles in the water. And a clean docking!


Mark

--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

2015-08-21 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Interesting - I just tried to go back to the listing and its not
coming up.
Can't find in on a quick search -- seems the challenge questions may
have scared him off to find easier pickings elsewhere


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-08-21 2:23 PM, Danny Haughey
  via CnC-List wrote:


  I've written him on ebay and asked about the salvaged title,
and whether or not he had receipts or photo documentation of the
repairs.  No reply yet...

-- Original Message --
    From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2015 13:40:09 -0300


  I agree - if you zoom in on the photo the starboard stanchions
  are not there.� I'd bet he just patched the holes and is
  hoping nobody notices the missing stanchions.
  Not exactly a worldwide cruiser in that condition
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-08-21 9:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike
  via CnC-List wrote:

  
I
don�t see any stbd lifeline or stanchions in the ebay
photos.� Wonder how much was fixed?
�

  
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Harry Hallgring via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015
4:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Harry Hallgring
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List -
1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
  

�

  Seems cheap?

Harry
  
Sent from my iPhone
  


  
On Aug 20, 2015, at 15:20, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:


  

  I just saw this. �the price is
rediculous.


  �


  http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXCELLENT-C-C-WORLD-CRUISER-Ready-To-Sail-NO-RESERV-Offshore-Electronics-Package-/201411407045?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ee50e2cc5&item=201411407045


  �


  but as I was researching the boat
i found this.


  �


  http://www.yachtsalvage.com/Listings/YS140250.htm#photos


  it has to be the same boat. �I
think someone bought the salvaged boat, fixed it up
and is flipping it.


  �


  not that that is necessarily a
bad thing... �it just needs a really good survey...

  


  
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

2015-08-21 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

I agree - if you zoom in on the photo the starboard stanchions are
not there.  I'd bet he just patched the holes and is hoping nobody
notices the missing stanchions.
Not exactly a worldwide cruiser in that condition


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-08-21 9:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
I
don’t see any stbd lifeline or stanchions in the ebay
photos.  Wonder how much was fixed?
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Harry Hallgring via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 4:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Harry Hallgring
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38
Landfall on Ebay
  

 

  Seems cheap?

Harry
  
Sent from my iPhone
  


  
On Aug 20, 2015, at 15:20, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
wrote:


  

  I just saw this.  the price is
rediculous.


   


  http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXCELLENT-C-C-WORLD-CRUISER-Ready-To-Sail-NO-RESERV-Offshore-Electronics-Package-/201411407045?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ee50e2cc5&item=201411407045


   


  but as I was researching the boat i
found this.


   


  http://www.yachtsalvage.com/Listings/YS140250.htm#photos


  it has to be the same boat.  I think
someone bought the salvaged boat, fixed it up and is
flipping it.


   


  not that that is necessarily a bad
thing...  it just needs a really good survey...

  


  
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Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding

2015-08-18 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Thanks for all the replies - I'll look into the acid options
locally.

As for the welding - I think my best bet is to suck it up - remove
the rear pulpit and take it into a shop for welding.  The broken
weld is right at one of the deck anchors so it would be tough not to
damage the boat.  Plus then they could properly repair the crappy
weld job the mobile guy did -- I don't think he used stainless for
the core.  

Thanks,
Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-08-18 1:00 AM, Russ &
  Melody via CnC-List wrote:


  Hi Mark,
  
  I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a "scotchbrite" pad to clean up
  rust stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute
  version
  of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad
  &
  acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less
  time than
  a soak.
  
  Any significant heat treatment (welding) on S/S  will affect it's
  protective oxide layer. To restore the affected area we use a
  "pickling paste" which is just a fancy name for a really strong
  acid thickened enough to hang almost vertical for a while doing
  it's job.
  Copious amounts of water is recommenced to be on hand to get rid
  of it.
  
  
  The best welding process for anything that cannot be removed from
  the
  boat is shielded gas, TIG or MIG, not a fluxed electrode. A tad
  more
  expensive but a much better job and no splatter clean-up. 
  
  If you have to go other and with any grinding keep the decks wet,
  water
  flowing, around the work area. This will prevent hot stuff
  sticking to
  soft stuff. 
  
  Cheers,
  Russ
  Sweet
  35 mk-1
  
  At 12:48 PM 17/08/2015, you wrote:
  
  Last year I had
noticed a small
crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to
the boat
repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and
had to
repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.

The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the
crack and
seemed solid).  Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a
million little rust stains in the gel coat.  We tried to scrub
them
out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. 
CLR
didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak?

Any suggestions on cleaning?  I'm wondering about doing a bit of
a
white wash with stain to see if that will clean them.

Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust -
obviously he
welded with steel and that is rusting.  I had another weld that
gave
way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid
repeating
the same issue.  Not sure how close to fiberglass they can
safely
weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process,
but
likely smart to get it done properly.

Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder?
Recommendations in Halifax area?
I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe
integrated right into the rear pulpit

Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco


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Stus-List Rust stains and welding

2015-08-17 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the 
boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and 
had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.


The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and 
seemed solid).  Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million 
little rust stains in the gel coat.  We tried to scrub them out with 
Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat.  CLR didn't seem to 
do much - maybe a longer soak?


Any suggestions on cleaning?  I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white 
wash with stain to see if that will clean them.


Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he 
welded with steel and that is rusting.  I had another weld that gave way 
(a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating 
the same issue.  Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - 
removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely 
smart to get it done properly.


Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? 
Recommendations in Halifax area?
I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe 
integrated right into the rear pulpit


Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco


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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

2015-06-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
I'd recommend reading
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel

Includes an explanation of charge controllers and need for such

Mark
CS30 Prosecco 
-
  
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-06-02 3:54 PM, Edd Schillay via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Listers,
  
  
  I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my
15W solar panel running to my house bank. There seems to be so
many choices out there landing from a few bucks to over $60. 
  
  
  What should I be looking for? Will this one work
well enough? http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V 
  

  

  
All the best,
  
  
  Edd
  
  
  
  
  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 

  
  Starship
  Enterprise's Captain's Log
  
  
  
  

  
  
  
  
  

  
  



  

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box

2015-05-20 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Thanks.

I'll look for that wrench or the Princess auto option.  My cresent
wrench wouldn't open far enough so I was trying with a single
channel lock wrench - no luck.

Had a friend check the boat yesterday - sounds like the drips slowed
way down - only a 1/4" of water under engine in 18 hrs - so might
not even need tightening.  Maybe the stuffing box was just dried out
and needed to let in some water until it re-absorbed water and
swelled back up.

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-05-20 12:15 PM, Sean Richardson
  via CnC-List wrote:


  That's actually a plumbers slip nut wrench and what
I used on my recent repack..worked like a charm.


 $3.36 @ Homedepot. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/brasscraft-adjustable-slip-nut-wrench/909063
  
  
    

  
  
On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 9:45 AM, robert
  via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
 I have two of these
  on board.easier to work with than ordinary pipe
  wrenches although I have tightened with pipe wrenches.
  
  http://www.westmarine.com/buy/seafit--adjustable-packing-nut-wrench--290280
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  On 2015-05-19 1:52 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List
wrote:
  
  On the Buck Algonquin bronze
stuffing boxes this works well:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/10-in-wide-opening-adjustable-wrench/A-p8306623e

Handles about a 2" nut.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
 
 

  Date: Tue, 19 May 2015
12:43:34 -0300 
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 

To: C&C list 

Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box 
Message-ID: 

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 


First sail/journey of the year.  Bedford to Deep
Cove in Mahoney Bay - approx 50 nautical miles. 
Left Bedford Yacht Club and motored out thru Halifax
Barbour, around Chebucto Head and through Samboro
passage - minimal wind and dead on the nose. 
Quite pleased with motor overall. I replaced a
broken engine mount and the new one (a generic mount
I modified to fit) was way better. Engine needs to
be re-aligned - hopefully that will decrease
vibration even more.  Advice appreciated. I've read
about it - difficult? 

On arrival my stuffing box was dripping a fair bit.
Little more than 1 drop per second 
Tried to tighten but couldn't separate the 2 nuts.
Sprayed a little PB Blaster - but I'll need a second
wrench to counter with rather than spinning whole
unit. 
Any suggestions? Are locking pliers OK? 

Mark 

CS 30 Prosecco 
  




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Stus-List Stuffing box

2015-05-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


First sail/journey of the year.  Bedford to Deep Cove in Mahoney Bay - approx 
50 nautical miles. 
Left Bedford Yacht Club and motored out thru Halifax Barbour, around Chebucto 
Head and through Samboro passage - minimal wind and dead on the nose. 
Quite pleased with motor overall. I replaced a broken engine mount and the new 
one (a generic mount I modified to fit) was way better. Engine needs to be 
re-aligned - hopefully that will decrease vibration even more.  Advice 
appreciated. I've read about it - difficult?

On arrival my stuffing box was dripping a fair bit. Little more than 1 drop per 
second
Tried to tighten but couldn't separate the 2 nuts. Sprayed a little PB Blaster 
- but I'll need a second wrench to counter with rather than spinning whole 
unit. 
Any suggestions? Are locking pliers OK?

Mark

CS 30 Prosecco



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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

2015-05-06 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

Robert,
Going back and looking again at the Ronca chart I can see I made a
similar blunder.  I was thinking 1 ton = 2000 lbs --- but the Ronca
chart is actually metric (New Zealand) - so 1 ton is actually 1000
kg - or 2200 lbs.  
As I look at it now I was looking at several different anchors - and
was focusing on 30 ft and ~9000 lbs loaded - rather than 9m and ~4
metric ton.

I bet the 10 would fit easier on my deck - do you know the size
difference in the shanks?  Given I got mine for Xmas and it's not
wet yet I'll see if they might allow a trade

Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-05-06 10:39 AM, RPH via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Mark, 
  
  
  I have since learned (with Neil's help) that I actually do
have the correctly sized Rocna for my length and displacement.
For a 9m boat, the 10kg Rocna is recommended provided that
displacement is less than 5 tons, or about 10,000 lbs. For some
silly reason, I was calculating as if a ton was 1000 lbs, rather
than 2000 lbs. 
  
  
  
  
  Robert H. 
  
   Original message ----
  From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
  
  Date: 05-06-2015 3:39 AM (GMT-08:00) 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground
  tackle? 
  
  I got stuck on the same issue. 
  My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 
  Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the
  gap. But decided that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in
  an area where I'll be overnighting in marinas - so I figure the
  extra security will help me sleep. 
  I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across
  the parking lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have
  a 10 for comparison. 
  
  Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 
  
  Mark
  
  On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert
Hrabinsky via CnC-List  wrote:

  My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I
just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. 
  
  
  The question is: Am I an idiot? 
  
  
  The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for
my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how
conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb)
Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or
less. 
  
  
  I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit
(the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna
will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. 
  
  
  What say you? 
  
  
  Rob H. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Sent from my
  Samsung device
  
  

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  -- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
  Bedford Chiropractic
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?

2015-05-06 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

I got stuck on the same issue. 
My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs 
Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the gap. But decided 
that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in an area where I'll be 
overnighting in marinas - so I figure the extra security will help me sleep. 
I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across the parking 
lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have a 10 for comparison. 

Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. 

Mark

On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
>
>My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my
>33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. 
>The question is: Am I an idiot? 
>The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my
>displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative
>their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be
>recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. 
>I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is
>too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly
>outperform the 33lb Bruce. 
>What say you? 
>Rob H. 
>
>
>Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>bottom of page at:
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-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
Bedford Chiropractic
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Top o'Mast Work

2015-04-30 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



I hand lowered the mast on my Mirage 24 a few times.
Good grip-able rope attached to the end of a jib halyard will allow 
someone on the dock to tip it back - then one person (or 2) standing on 
the coach roof can catch the weight as it comes down.  Not light, but 
not too hard.


Make sure you have somewhere to rest it - and realize the tip of the 
mast will extend well off the back of the boat so you'll have to come at 
it from a dock or dinghy.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-04-30 5:08 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
There might have been different masts for the 24, but in my old one 
(1975), I would not attempt to lower the mast without a crane - it was 
way too heavy. Possibly with a decent A-frame. Though it should pivot 
on the tabernacle.


Marek

ex. C&C 24

-Original Message- From: Andrew Frame via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 3:46 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 Top o'Mast Work


I'm still doing the new-owner fixing things and the top of the mast is
beckoning. It regularly gets whacked in low trees, so I have no idea
what shape anything is in. The windicator is long gone, and I'm
surprised the VHF whip is still attached.

My mentor suggested the easiest way to do inspection/repair is to loosen
the bow stay and both shrouds, and just lay the mast down aft. We can
then stand on the dock and fiddle about with it.

It seems perfectly reasonable up front. Anyone with 24 experience beg to
differ?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.






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Re: Stus-List Why does my furler get "hung up"?

2015-04-17 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


>From all the advice there are several possible issues. 
I'd suggest starting by trying to diagnose the source - gradually eliminate 
possible causes. 
Can you furl the sail by hand? If doing it by hand resolves the problem then 
your issue lies with the line and lead. If no improvement then something is 
blocking the furler. 
Try removing the sail - if the furler spins easily with no sail then you know 
its something about the sail that is causing the problem (halyard, sag etc). 

I had problems with my furler on my last boat - some advice helped me figure 
out that my backstay was too loose - as I wrapped my big Genoa the weight would 
sag the furler/forestay and make it difficult to wrap the last 1/3. Finally I 
learned to crank some tension on the back stay before I started furling the 
sail. 

Mark

On April 17, 2015 9:53:01 AM ADT, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
>Do you have a halyard restrainer?  Get a pair of binoculars and look at
>the
>top of the mast.  Is the halyard wrapping around the forestay?  Harken
>recommends at least a 7 degree divergence between halyard and forestay.
> If
>the halyard runs close to and parallel with the forestay there is
>potential
>for it to wrap.
>
>How long since you flushed the swivel and drum bearings?  Do you sail
>in
>salt water environment?  Drop the sail and liberally wash the swivel
>and
>drum bearings with fresh water.  Spray the drum from underneath.  If
>you
>have it, spray some Sailkote McLube into the bearings.
>
>Dennis C.
>Touche' 35-1 #83
>Mandeville, LA
>
>On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 12:08 AM, RPH via CnC-List
>
>wrote:
>
>> I just bent on my main and jib this evening. While furling my jib,
>the
>> furler (Harken) seemed to get caught up somehow. It was as if the
>furler
>> wanted to unwind a little, if that makes sense.
>>
>> I know that my jib sheets were not fouled. It felt as if I was
>twisting
>> the foil or the forestay.
>>
>> I managed to furl by repeatedly backing off and gingerly furling
>again.
>>
>> Anyway, I'm asking because this happened to me last summer under sail
>> while I was trying to reef. The situation was as above, but with the
>added
>> drama of a wildly flapping jib.
>>
>> Is there an obvious reason for this?
>>
>> Robert H.
>> 1989 C&C 30 MKII
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>___
>
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-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
Bedford Chiropractic
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Re: Stus-List Skis for a 33 foot ice boat?

2015-03-19 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Mike,
That might be our only solution!
Maybe this is a new ice age and we are going to stay frozen for the next 1000 
years! Yesterday I stuck a yard stick in the snow on my driveway, 51 cm (22in) 
of fresh snow down by 9am. Likely another 5-10cm after that. Haven't made it to 
the boat yet to check the cover.  

I can imagine a caravan of boats being dragged across the ice to open water so 
we can reach open water and sail south!

Mark
Prosecco
CS 30

On March 19, 2015 9:29:24 AM ADT, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
>Has anybody on the list toyed with the idea of installing skis or
>blades on the bottom of their boat for iceboating?
>
>I am thinking that this may be the only way I will get to use
>Persistence this summer.
>
>Mike Hoyt
>Persistence
>Halifax, NS
>(under 2 mile deep of snow)
>
>
>
>
>___
>
>Email address:
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-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
Bedford Chiropractic
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Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing

2015-02-26 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  I've noticed the snow sticking to my canvas cover this winter.
  I'm wondering about putting some of the silicone water proofing
  that is used on tents on the cover in the spring - hoping to make
  it a bit more "slippery".  Ideally it will shed snow more easily,
  important if I'll be keeping the boat a little further away from
  home next winter.
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-24 9:25 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
Mike
 
You
have just made the pain / hassle of installing and then
maintaining a winter cover seem very much more worthwhile to
me.  I am constantly worrying about the weight of the snow
on my deck at home, at my mom’s place and on roofs this
year.  Now on top of that on my boat cover.  So far has only
been one week where I had to spend hourseclearing snow off
the boat cover and reinforcing the frame – since then has
been ok.
 
One
interesting tidbit I learned this year is that snow sticks
to the custom canvas covers much more readily than shrink
wrap covers.  Shrink wrap might be an option for you to try
in the future for this reason ..
 
Mike
Persistence
Frers
33
Halifax,
NS – in the midst of a “freeze” portion of freeze thaw cycle
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of mike amirault via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing
  

 

  NS
  has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a
  fairly substantial rainfall this weekend, I found the
  bilge on my C&C 33mkii was full to the top. This
  seemed like too much water to have run down the mast so I
  investigated and found that one of the hoses on my cockpit
  drains was frozen solid and popped the hose off the barbs
  of the drain. My boat is not covered at this time(tarp was
  sagging too much) so there is a lot of water in the
  cockpit.  I'm thinking there may be a low spot in the hose
  causing water to freeze there rather than draining. The
  drains on my C&C are criss-crossed, i.e., port drainst
  to stbd, &stbd to port. Just wondering how other
  owners in a freezing climate deal with this issue?

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

2015-02-18 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



I'm a member on the CS owners association group - a request for shaft 
info was already posted on that list yesterday.



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-02-18 6:44 PM, Bill Connon via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Bruno,
You are a very good friend.

What make and model boat does your friend have?   1" Shaft". Length? 
  Keyway dimensions?  Taper for the prop? Cutless bearing OD and length?


There is a slim chance someone on this list has replaced theirs so 
your friend may have to haul the boat, remove the shaft, measure 
everything and order the right parts?  If he's doing all this he 
should also replace the piece of hose between the shaft log and the 
stuffing box if it's older than 10 years?


I doubt anybody but the builder keeps prop shaft dimensions for a 
specific boat.  Best of luck.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



 I imagine that Bruno will be back with more details but in the 
meantime the boat involved is a CS Merlin 36 ft. long. If somebody 
knows of a CS newsgroup similar to our C&C group it could be of a big 
help.


Bill
Caprice 1


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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

2015-02-17 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Robert,
Thanks for further input. My plan is to follow the same idea. I like your 
keyhole idea to locate the window effectively. 
One question - did you tape the window in place and then add the 795 into the 
gap? Or did you put some 795 on the back of the acrylic (or the cabin side)?  I 
feel like I'd like to get more 795 in begins the acrylic - but maybe the point 
is that the tape provides the holding power and the 795 is just waterproofing 
sealant. 

Mark

On February 17, 2015 2:22:57 PM AST, "Robert H. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
>I am writing to update on my portlight replacement project.
>
>
>The installation went perfectly and the portlight looks great.
>
>
>Applying a few wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with
>removable, double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix
>the portlight in proper alignment. It slid into position like a puzzle
>piece, which is good because you only get one crack at it with the VHB
>tape.
>
>
>I also have a very good feeling about the VHB / DC 795 method - though
>time will be the ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the
>tape and DC 795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract with
>heat and cold at a different rate that the cabin top without breaking
>the bond (in theory, anyway).
>
>
>For those that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one
>final tip and a few comments.
>
>
>The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping hiking poles
>to apply pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the
>lifelines while the VHB tape set up. I also used a heat gun to warm up
>the cabin top before applying the portlight.
>
>
>I have no leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going to
>wait until the weather warms up before I start on them. I learned that
>the initial bond of the VHB tape is dependent on both the application
>of continuous pressure and the ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet
>does a better job of explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid
>bond, it will hold well even in cold conditions, but you will be doing
>yourself a favour if you wait for warmer conditions.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Sent from Windows Mail
>
>
>
>
>
>From: RPH via CnC-List
>Sent: ‎Sunday‎, ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that
>some might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the
>portlights on my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the
>on-boat part of the project yesterday and the work is not yet complete.
>
>
>
>
>
>In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to
>1/2 inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide
>rail system and a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics
>manufacturer, and they made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass
>(Bronze 2404). The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees
>(if I remember correctly). They turned out to be very good
>reproductions of the factory portlights. 
>
>
>
>
>To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB
>4991 Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I
>chose white over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature
>Silicone Coating exhaust paint. 
>
>
>
>
>Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the
>aft, starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I
>could chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a
>methacrylate adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I
>brought my Dremel Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried
>using a flexible scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top.
>This was not effective. In the end, I used several small putty knives
>which easily removed the portlight. 
>
>
>
>
>What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the
>methacrylate adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove
>the adhesive but ultimately decided that the better course would be to
>fair the area with 3m Premium Marine Filler. 
>
>
>
>
>After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place
>while my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the
>protective paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper
>along the tracing and removed the paper surrounding the window opening.
>Next, I spray painted the inside of the portlight black with the DEI
>paint so that the tape and Dow 795 will not be visible against the
>cabin top. 
>
>
>
>
>I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to
>see that it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after
>the surface was carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the
>fairing compound should be left to cure overnight and I will try again
>today. In any event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to
>reach maximum adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the
>temperature is warmer. I'll bri

Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

2015-02-10 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  I've been following this topic any time I see it come up - I have
  windows in need of replacement.
  I like the sailing anarchy suggestion - with coincides (fairly
  closely )with Don Casey's recommendation
  http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights
  He recommends double sided tape and Dow Corning 795 sealant.
  The one difference he suggests using just the double sided tape
  initially  - then squeeze the sealant into the gap after the
  window is in place.
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-07 8:50 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:


  

  

  
Do NOT use 5200. 
  

Here is one way to do it: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page01.htm

  
  Here is another way to do it: http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=133986&hl=
  

Here's another way:



Clean all traces of silicone from the window and frame. This
will take roughly forever. I used a product I got from an
auto parts store called "Acryl-Safe" which did a good job.
You could also try any number of citrus-based silicone
removers. Clean off all the remover residue with Interlux
Special Thinner 216.
  
  You could try rebedding without screws. I opted to use screws
  on 6" centers, 4" would have been better. Drill the holes
  slightly oversize and use a washer under the screw head. 

The sealant is the next step. I used Life Seal (NOT Life Caulk!)
because it has good adhesive qualities and does not interact
with the acrylic/Lexan (whatever you have). If I was starting
from scratch, I would use Sikaflex 295 UV with the special
primer and skip the screws.  
  
  

  Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
  


On 7 February 2015 at 16:18, Rex &
  Jennifer Delay via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  

  
We have a relatively new to us 1985
  41.  The windows and hatches had been replaced by the
  previous owner.  Hatches were done right, the side
  windows were bedded in silicone, not right.  I had to
  re-bed one of them already but did not get all traces
  of the silicone off so it did not take.  Need to do it
  again as soon as possible which will involve removing
  the window, scraping clean and then wiping the cabin
  side with acetone and re-bedding with 5200.  The
  question is – there are no mechanical fastenings? 
  Should I add screws every 4” or so or create some sort
  of method to press the windows in place while the 5200
  sets?  Anyone come up with the perfect jig to do this
  or is it better to add screws?  Large custom bar
  clamps?
 
Rex & Jennifer Delay
www.
  Ghostlake.com
www.ghostlakesailing.com
 
  


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Re: Stus-List Hand crank vs Starter battery

2015-02-03 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
I've never tried (as my boat didn't
  come with the crank handle) but my CS 30 Volvo 2002 also has a
  hand crank option.  I was advised that it wouldn't work easily ---
  but having watched the YouTube series on the yacht Teleport that
  sailed out of Halifax and through the Northwest passage they
  started their small diesel with a hand crank.
  I'd pick up a crank handle if I could find one
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-03 12:34 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  ‎Today's discussion about a electrical batter connections and
starting batteries reminded me that there is reference to a
starting crank handle in my Atomic4 manual. I used to have a
staring crank with my old Land Rover that was always
entertaining to use, but surprisingly easy way to start the
truck if the starter or battery failed.
  Does anyone have experience with hand cranking the Atomic4?
  
  
  Jay
  C&C30-1 Lady Jane
  Oakville, Ontario
  
  
  

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

2015-02-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  BTW - MaineSail's site was posted with his discussion on battery
  monitoring from 2011
  his newer article (which is linked in that original one) suggests
  that a Balmar Smart Gauge us a better option.
  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/smart_gauge
  
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-02 2:57 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Josh,
Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense
to be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of
$360 cdn).  But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I
could maintain some track on drain.
Say something like 
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO

I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel
this spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per
MaineSail's instructions.  Rather than going to a "starting
bank" and a "house bank" - I'll likely stick with A bank and B
bank - use them interchangeably for starting and house.

Mark

 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
  
  
What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. 
  Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs
  below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs
  of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou get the
  jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will
  decrease its effective useful service life.  Many batteries
  publish a the number of cycles and depth of discharge.  One
  loose rating convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200
  charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number increases
  when the depth of discharge is reduced.
When using a voltage meter, it is important to take
  a "no load" voltage after the battery has had time to
  "recover".  The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage
  conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery will read
  12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this
  convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I
  have a total of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a
  "loaded" voltage of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the
  other battery.  I can go about 2 days in the middle of summer
  with no charging source before I start to worry.  The engine
  charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me
  pretty well topped up.
I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is
  similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested.  I have a Link
  2000 installed on my current boat but it has never worked
  right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed
  on the charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...
http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons,  MD

On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht
  via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

  wrote:
  
Looking at the wiring
  diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can
  answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do
  more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is
  how people monitor the state of their batteries when you
  know shore power is not going to be available.  I have a
  digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the
  batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent
  charge and I have used that as a rough guide, but that
  seems crude for such an important function.  My
  understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a
  while if they have been charging to get an accurate
  reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be
  off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run
  the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?

Re: Stus-List State of the Battery

2015-02-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  
Josh,
  Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
  With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to
  be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360
  cdn).  But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could
  maintain some track on drain.
  Say something like 
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO
  
  I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this
  spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's
  instructions.  Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house
  bank" - I'll likely stick with A bank and B bank - use them
  interchangeably for starting and house.
  
  Mark
  
   
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


  What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter. 
Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below
50% should be avoided.  This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs of use. 
5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 houryou get the jist. 
Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its
effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the
number of cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating
convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200
charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number increases when
the depth of discharge is reduced.
  When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a
"no load" voltage after the battery has had time to "recover". 
The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage conversion is
0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery will read 12.7v and a
fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this convention one
should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total of
500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage
of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I
can go about 2 days in the middle of summer with no charging
source before I start to worry.  The engine charges at 100amps
so motoring on and of the hook keeps me pretty well topped up.
  I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is
similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000
installed on my current boat but it has never worked right.  I
believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed on the
charge or discharge circuit.I'll get to it...
  http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/
  Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
  
  On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via
CnC-List" 
wrote:

  Looking at the wiring
diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can
answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do
more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how
people monitor the state of their batteries when you know
shore power is not going to be available.  I have a digital
voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a
chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have
used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an
important function.  My understanding is that you have let
the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging to
get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws
also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it
is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next
destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you “hours of
battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to
solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

  

  Aries
  1990
C&C 34+
  New
London, CT
  
  

  
  

  
  
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Stus-List Anchor question

2014-11-06 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Looking for feedback on new anchors. 
Currently I have a Kingston brand, 30lb, CQR anchor. Not too impressed with its 
ability to bite even into the nicest sand. 
Having read a ton of info, reviews and comments I'm looking at the 'new' style 
anchors. I was tempted to go with a Mantus - but price is high and no local 
distributer. Ronca's are on sale right now at the Binnacle - so that makes the 
decision easier. 
The question is what size. I've read the typical 'minimum 1 foot of chain and 1 
pound of anchor for every foot of boat'. But not sure how well it applies to 
new versions. 
Reading Ronca's recommendations
http://www.rocna.com/product-range/sizing-guide
My 8000lb 30 ft CS 30 would easily fit the 10kg (22lb) recommendation. 

Sure. For the extra $60 I could bump up to the bigger anchor. Not sure how well 
either will fit on my bow. I'm sure the heavier anchor would be harder to haul 
up - but maybe worth it for the peace of mind?

Reading some independent reviews (as posted by Ronca)
http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/independent-performance-testing.php
One claims the Ronca 15 consistently held with 4500lbs. 
A chart ( The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table) of expected anchor 
strains suggests a 30ft boat would only exert 2800lbs of anchor strain in a 
60kt severe storm --- not something I expect to confront in my costal cruising. 
 

I'm on the fence. On one hand tempted to just bump up to the 15kg and deal with 
the minor extra challenge dragging the anchor up (I'm fit enough to manage) - 
then its never a concern and when I do start venturing further along the coast 
I have a security blanket. 
On the other wondering if I'm getting into foolish overkill as the 15kg anchor 
could manage a boat 2x my weight in a heavy storm. 

Thoughts and opinions welcome. 

Mark


-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --
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Re: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

2014-10-24 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  I recently installed new stair treads at home - replacing the old
  carpet stairs with new oak hardwood.
  But with kids at home I was concerned about traction with kids at
  home.
  I went to Home Depot and bought a small package of "paint grit" -
  only a couple $.  White powdery substance.  I was worried that it
  might stay white looking - but not at all.
  I mixed a bunch straight into my Polyurethane (MinWax) then rolled
  it onto the steps with my second coat.
  You can clearly see the grit as bumps in the surface - but the
  wood grain looks great and tons of traction (even in socks) with
  no colour change.  
  
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 23/10/2014 1:22 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  

  Bill,
   
  do you know how slippery it is when wet?
   
  I need to refinish the steps down the companionway.
   
  Marek
  

   
  
From: Bill Coleman via
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Floor
  Varnish
  

 
  
  

  On the recommendation of our local
  Shipwright, I used Minwax  Fast drying Polyurethane. 
  Satin.
  Looks beautiful. Wears like iron.
  For exterior application, I think I may try
  some stuff from these guys,
   
  http://emcllc.net/quantumuv-polyurethane-varnish/
   
  They got an excellent write-up in Soundings.
   
  
Regards,
 
Bill 
  
   
  

  From:
  CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:00 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Interior Floor Varnish

  
   
  Listers,
  
 
  
  
   
  Seeking recommendations for a varnish to use on
  the interior floorboards on the Enterprise. 
  
  
 
  
  
   
  Of course, I want something that is easy to
  apply, takes a coat or two to have a award-winning
  appearance, is durable and something that will last
  for a decade or more. And since that produce doesn’t
  exist, I’d like to know what would be the best
  compromise. 
  
  
 
  
  
   
  The boat's up for the winter, so I’d like to
  get brushing over the next few weekends. 

  
 

      All the best,


   


      Edd


   


   


      Edd M. Schillay


      Starship Enterprise


      C&C 37+ | Sail No:
  NCC-1701-B


      City Island, NY 

  
  
    Starship
  Enterprise's Captain's Log
  

 
  




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Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements

2014-09-23 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are
  cracked and need replacement.
  I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read
  multiple different techniques -- so my comments should be taken
  with a grain (or bag) of salt!  Nest year I may be able to speak
  from experience.
  
  I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that
  the acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat
  (or does not match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin
  a layer of adhesive - which could not absorb the movement.
  The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the
  acrylic a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the
  adhesive caulk in around the edges for the water proofing.  With
  more thickness there is more ability to absorb the different
  motions.  
  
  Mark
  
  
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:


  A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife
around the outside edge of the 30-year glued windows, went
inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my fist. Every
one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy


Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice
  new ports except for the not so pretty glue line showing
  through #2404 bronze 3/8", but then this year the large window
  started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it.


One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat
  with Lewmar ports.


Nate
"Sarah Jean"
  1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior


  
  
On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary
  Nylander via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  

  Curtis, be very careful when
  taking the old ones out. They are glued in with some
  powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping
  the gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I
  know). You may want to try a dremel or one of those
  vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).
   
  Then you have to clean up the area
  where the adhesive was - it was probably laid on
  pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care.
   
  Some folks use a special adhesive
  called Plexus, which is a two part glue and needs a
  special gun for application. The windows are bonded
  into the side of the cabin and are part of the
  structure. You have to hold them in place (they are
  slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or
  you can use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a
  primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't get
  creative and try anything else, there are probably 100
  war stories about folks who have experimented and then
  got the opportunity to do it right the next year.
   
  Search through the archives on the
  site - most of the late '70's and later original
  C&C's had glued in windows and there are a lot of
  threads on this repair. It is doable but not trivial.
  Jake had a pretty good description if I remember
  correctly.
   
  Gary Nylander
  (Been there with moderate success)
   
  

  
- Original Message
  - 
From:
  Curtis via CnC-List 
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday,
  September 23, 2014 8:21 AM
Subject:
  Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch
  replacements



  Good morning,
  I'm thinking of a winter project to replace
the cabin side windows with something stronger
and nice. Has anybody undergone this project
that could share their process and maybe some
photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor
knife and take them to a lexan shop and have
them duplicate them in a lighter color?  Is
there a framed in type? I have b

Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

2014-09-22 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  On the first point - jack stand vs cradle --- I just had a new
  cradle built by a local fabricator -- 6 pad cradle and looks
  really strong.  Should support the boat well.
  
  As for the mast up or down Seems there is no real consensus. 
  
  My boat came with a fitted cover that did a pretty good job of
  keeping the water out over the winters - but I'm sure some found
  it's way down the mast.  
  Our club crane hauls many boats with the mast in place.
  
  Thanks for all the feedback.  I'm still waffling back and forth. 
  Guess we'll figure it out when I get close.
  
  Mark
  

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 22/09/2014 4:32 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
This
is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more? 
Removal and reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or
leaving it up?  I know that one season on our J27 we left
the mast up.  That Spring while working on the boat the
entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit. 
I attribute this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as
anything.
 
The
big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a
boat on jack stands.  The extra windage of the mast further
compromises the integrity of jack stands.  One local club
(Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast to be left up
on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another
way to look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast
must come down.
 
I
realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow
jackstands.  I believe this is due to yard space and not due
to a jackstand being more secure than a cradle.  
 
So
here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down
question.  At the very least mast down does give you a good
opportunity to inspect the standing rigging and the mast
 
Mike
 
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
  Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
To: Ron Casciato; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
 

  Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat
unless they are being worked on.
  
 
  
  
Joel
  


   
  
On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron
  Casciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:
In the boatyards around
  Boston.almost no masts are removed for
  winter storage..most are stored with mast up and
  seem to do
  well
  
  In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for
  revisions or repairs to
  wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year
  interval
  
  It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the
  tension on shrouds
  and backstay "a little" not flopping around
  
  Ron C.
  Impromptu
  C&C 38MKIIC.'77

  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
  On Behalf Of Hoyt,
  Mike via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
  To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
  
  Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good
  idea.  Many clubs
  around here do not permit it
  
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
          On Behalf Of Dr.
  Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
  
  
  All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me
  wondering about the
  merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the
  winter.
  In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states

Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

2014-09-22 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the 
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.

In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast 
left in place as
this places stresses on the hull and rig not encountered during normal 
operation. Any
damage  to  the  yacht,  its  cradle  or  any  associated  part will  
not  be  covered  under

warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.


I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by 
hand.  Our club has a crane and a "gin pole"(?) that could be used to 
pull the mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast 
in place I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the 
shrouds a little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3 
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of 
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch 
crew for me)


Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a 
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That 
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast 
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?


Advice appreciated,
Mark


--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


---
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Stus-List Red light myth?

2014-09-18 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

An interesting article on the benefit (or lack thereof) of using red 
light to try and preserve night vision.
I had bought LED strips for the boat with plans to re-do the interior 
lighting - mostly in white but also bought some red so I could light the 
chart table, a bit in the main cabin and the head.
Based on the article maybe the red is likely a waste of effort - and I 
should focus on getting a dimmer for the white.


http://stlplaces.com/night_vision_red_myth/

Mark


--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a C&C 30 sailboat

2014-09-10 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  Any advice on mounting? Number you used?
  What type of "better solution" do you need for mounting?
  
  Ted's video recommends 4
  "Hiwave. model number HIAX32C20-8 "

  But the HiWave model no longer is avail - the Tectonic Elements
  one you have (TEAX32C30-4)
  are the basically the same model number and I'm guessing Tectonics
  took over the Hiwave products or name change?
  I have the stereo - I'll have to check speaker ohm
  recommendations.
  
  I'm thinking I'll mount a set in the cockpit and a set underneath
  in the cabin - set them up as front and rear speakers on the
  stereo so I can flip back and forth or run both.
  
  Mark
  
  
  



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 10/09/2014 9:59 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List wrote:


  Howdy all,

I installed the sound exciters on my 30 MK1 after watching Ted's video.  In
a word, fantastic.  They sound great and they are totally protected under
the cockpit.  No drilling or cutting needed and cheap to boot.  They attach
with double stick tape rings - I plan on working up a better solution for
that.I installed a WM7000 Bluetooth stereo from Westmarine - remote
control and lots of other good features.  

Here is a link to the exciters that I purchased -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072HYSUW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=
1.  4 ohms to match the wm stereo.

My kids come sailing with me more often now that they can stream their
iphones - and I have to listen to electronic dance music - fair enough
trade-off I guess.

Cheers,

Joe Boyle
Zia
30 MK1
Annapolis
Zialater.com


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 22:47:10 -0400
From: Ted Drossos 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a C&C 29 sailboat
Message-ID: <8d19ab8a6ae8ad0-2b28-a...@webmail-va018.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Yes, the person who posted that video of the sound exciter installation on a
C&C 29 is a lister. Me. I have to say that I was very skeptical when I
originally started that project but figured that it was worth a shot.
Cutting 6" diameter holes in my cockpit had prevented me from adding
speakers for many years. That YouTube video was taken with an iPad so the
sound quality isn't a true representation of the great sound that these
little sound exciters can produce. A typical speaker would also make nearby
objects vibrate if they were loose and in close proximity. It's not an
issue. This is a great solution to adding sound in the cockpit without
having to cut holes. They stay dry and can't be accidentally damaged by a
foot going through them. I've seen that happen all to often on other boats.


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Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a C&C 29 sailboat

2014-09-09 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  I had seen the same video - I'm going with the same exciters when
  I put in my own stereo this year.
  I'm not that concerned about getting perfect sound quality - so
  I'm also thinking I'll put the same exciters in the cabin.
  I'll remember to use marine wire!
  
  Mark
  -

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 09/09/2014 3:53 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:


  
This is what I was refering
to earlier:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtyRW3KCbxQ
  
  Perhaps the guy is even a
lister?   
  
  As far as you can tell from a
phoen type recording it seems to sounds pretty good, since
fiberglass is stiff the highs and mids come through pretty
clearly.  The bass sounds a bit lacking but being in the
open air and with the embient noise bass gets lost anyway.
 If you really want bass you can always stick a Bazooka tube
in the lazarette then you'll be booming down the waterway
like a "Proud 'N Loud" wakeboarder.. 
  
   Perhaps the guy complaining
about quality did not have it wired correctly.  The brand
they sell is pretty well known.  There are other brands too.
  
  
  I'm definitely doing it when
I get down to that point in the priority list.
  
  Best Regards, 
  
  -Francois
  1990 34+ "Take Five"
  Lake Lanier, Georgia
  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List blown alternator diode

2014-08-15 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List


  
  

  I read that here on an earlier C&C thread - but I thought that
  you could switch between 1 - both - 2 without a problem - just
  don't flip through the "off" position.
  
  I did find a MaineSail article on SailBoat Owners where he
  describes re-wiring the switch so that the alternator charge is
  going directly back to the battery and avoids the risk of the
  switch rotating through the off position.
  
  Mark
  
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 15/08/2014 10:34 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:

The most common cause of diode failure on older boats
  is turning the battery 1-2-all switch while the engine is
  running.  This causes a brief period of no load on the
  alternator and blows the diodes.   Jerry C&C 27 V
 

-Original
  Message-
  From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List
  
  To: Burt Stratton ;
  C&CList 
  Sent: Fri, Aug 15, 2014 8:45 am
  Subject: Re: Stus-List blown alternator diode
  
  
Also, you will notice that your batteries
  will discharge much faster than normal when used sail if
  it is the blocking diodes that have failed as the
  alternator will become a very large drain.
  
  
  
Jack Fitzgerald
  C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA
  

  
  

On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 8:36
  AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  

  
Simple
answer:
 
Most
do have internal diodes. To be sure you can
google the part number of the alternator or
look it up on the manufacturers web site.
 
You
should see around 13.5 to 14 ish volts
across your starting battery terminals when
running. It will vary a little depending on
the condition of the battery. If you have an
ammeter you should see it move to the plus
side of zero after starting. If you see 12
or less volts across your starting battery
terminals when running or negative amps when
running you have a problem with the
alternator which could be the voltage
regulator or diodes (assuming the belt is
not slipping).
 
Skip
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of wwadjo...@aol.com
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014
8:21 AM
To: Brad Crawford via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List blown
alternator diode
  

 

  
The thread on
alternators got me to ask myself, "how
do you known if you have an internal
diode on alternator, and how do you know
if "blown?"
  
  
I am, electrically
challenged, admittedly.
  
  
Bill Walker
  
  
 CnC 36
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
Sent from my HTC
  

 
  


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Re: Stus-List Dyneema lifelines -- was Re: Swageless lifeline system

2014-07-14 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

  Thanks for all the feedback.
  Checked and my stanchions have smooth thru-holes.
  Right now my CS 30 has twin lifelines on either side.  Each line
  has a pelican hook for a gate (so both sides double hooks).
  The wire may be ok, but at 28yrs old there is too much slack even
  with the pelican hooks threads fully tightened.
  I'll see if I can find the fittings to add a loop to the end of
  the pelican hook and replace the wire.
  Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 12/07/2014 10:17 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Amsteel Lifelines:

I like how the amsteel is hard as steel when taught and
  when you unclip the gate pelican hook, the line is soft.  No
  fish hooks and easy to replace.  Easy to remove and store each
  winter if you want to protect from UVs and increase the life. 
  I used Samson's simple taper and bury method of splicing.  I
  found grey thread for the lockstitch, but ended up using black
  whipping twine, so I can prove it is done and find it in
  future.  There are 4" round shackle guards on the top life
  line in front of the forward stanchions to help the genoa roll
  over the lifeline and I don't see any wear there.  The stuff
  is very tuff.  

Sailing; We keep the lifelines taught and if the genoa is
  caught on the lifeline after a tack, we tension the sheet, and
  then tap the lifeline in the cockpit and the foot of the sail
  rolls over, inside the line. 

Now the weaklink in our system is the stanchion bases which
  offer some play.  The deck has some flex and the hole in the
  bases have ovalled enough I'm contemplating filling the void
  with an epoxy or hard UV resistant caulk? 

Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From:
  "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
  To: "M Bod" , "CNC boat
  owners, cnc-list" 
  Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 7:35:21 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Dyneema lifelines -- was Re:
  Swageless lifeline system

  Recently replaced my old lifelines with Amsteel and really
  like them. CS 
  Johnson has a new style of fitting that is very nice, 
  http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/p/00014.jpg .
  Did all the splices myself following the Samson
  recommendations and am very 
  pleased with the result.
  James
  S/V Delaney
  1976 C&C 38
  Oriental, NC

  - Original Message - 
  From: "M Bod via CnC-List" 
  To: "C&C list" 
  Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 7:59 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Dyneema lifelines -- was Re: Swageless
  lifeline system

  > Anyone try dynemma for lifelines?
  > I found at least one source for lifeline hardware with
  eye ends for high 
  > tech line.
  >
  >
http://www.downwindmarine.com/Johnson-Over-Center-Pelican-Gate-Hook-with-Eye-p-91000377.html
  >
  > Seems like it would be easy to install and replace as
  needed.
  > But would there be other issues?
  > Chafe on sails?
  > Chafe at stantions?
  > Hard to adjust length?
  >
  > My lifelines will need a replacement in the next year or
  2. At minimum. 
  > Not sure where I would get new swaged lifelines locally.
  >
  > Thoughts?
  >
  > Mark
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Stus-List Inboard drive question

2014-06-02 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Spent all day Sunday working on the boat - cleaning up the coolant mess, 
installing cabin cushions, putting everything away.


Went for a short buzz out of the cove (now have boat at a dock in Deep 
Cove, Mahone Bay, to see how the sailing is).  My tach is not working 
(another job) - so I don't have specific details - but there seems to be 
a lot of vibration when I start increasing the throttle.
Moving along slowly (~3kts) there is some vibration, but not bad. But 
above 1/2 (I'm totally guessing because I've not had the guts to drive 
it up to full throttle yet) more vibration.  at 5.5kts it feels like a 
lot to me.
I did climb down earlier and look at the shaft spinning - I can see it 
oscillating maybe 1/2 inch.  Is that normal?  A problem with the prop 
(Martec folding prop - original as far as I know -- didn't see 
excessively loose when I had the boat on the hard)? Or maybe a problem 
with the prop shaft?

I'd rather not kill the season pulling the prop shaft out now.

Any thoughts?

Mark

CS 30 Prosecco

--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

2014-05-27 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List



Thanks for all the advice.  This is a great resource (thanks Stu).  I've 
read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list 
gives quick feedback on how and why.


That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at.  Plus a switch.

I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc.

Any thoughts on the discharge?
I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which 
would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave 
that seacock open..


The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump 
discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that 
would need 18'+ of hose.


Mark

-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid 
electrical tape.  I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer 
than the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a 
syringe.  When the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been 
wet often.


Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches 
are still doing fine.  I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a 
big one that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, 
just in case.  The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just 
replaced it because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out.One 
thing I do is take a garden hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose 
out with high pressure dock water.  I'll also backflush the pump with 
the garden hose.


Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad 
wiring.  I've seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, 
and it's no wonder the wire rots out.  The worst, if you can believe 
it, was just wires twisted together and covered with electrical tape.  
No kidding.  I found that down here in Mexico, as the sport fishing 
boat was sinking at the dock.  The guy came back to town, and when I 
told him that I'd saved his boat he didn't even say thanks.  Power 
boaters.  (It probably didn't help that I said whoever did the wiring 
ought to be taken out and shot.)


Wal



you CnC-List wrote:

I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.



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