Re: [MBZ] Heater cold air

2005-12-15 Thread Peter Frederick

Back monvalve, bad circulation pump, bad ACC pushbutton unit.

A bad monovalve that has corroded the solenoid housing is likely -- 
it's energized to stop coolant flow to the heater core, so when the 
diaphram fails and water gets in the solenoid in the summer, it gets 
stuck closed,   No heat.


The monovalve diaphram can also swell up when old (especially with 
green coolant in there) and obstruct coolant flow as well.


Monovalve is up by the windsheild, passenger side of center, take out 
the four screws and remove the cover, lift out the valve.  If the 
diaphram on the bottom is wrinkled (or worse, torn), replace the insert.


Peter
On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 05:43  PM, Donald Snook wrote:


What could make a heater blow cold air on a 82 126 diesel assuming the
car is up to operating temperature?



Donald H. Snook



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Re: [MBZ] ArcticQ - US rendezvous point

2005-12-15 Thread Christopher McCann
well, the rendezvous points depend on who we are  rendezvous-ing with and that 
is going to be up in the air till the last  week, realistically...some will be 
die hard definites and others will  not, or will have something come up, etc.
  
  SO, I'm thinking that we plan a corse from Claremore to Deadhorse and  back 
to the, oh lets call it the BUP (break up point) - where we split  up and head 
our separate ways home...at the BUP, some smaller caravans  may still be 
intact, e.g a car from Kansas City and a car from St.  Louis will be together 
till Kansas City...but those smaller caravans  can be constituted on the spot.
  
  Let's focus on getting the route down - going through the areas we want  to 
go through - there and back. I advocate two different routes for  variety and 
different sights, etc...but neither should take us too far  out of the way.
  
  Once we nail the MAIN ITENERAY DOWN (claremore - deadhorse -  BUP), then we 
can decide where along THAT route it would be best to  rendezvous with other 
people coming on board that are not starting at  the OkieQ.
  
  My two cents.
  
  Chris

OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I just ran three scenarios through MapPoint 
from my house (140 miles
from the OkieQ) to Deadhorse, AK (one way) -

Quickest trip - 4130.1 miles, 6 days, 3 hours, 44 minutes.

Shortest trip - 4121.9 miles, 6 days, 5 hours, 13 minutes.

Preferred roads - 4397.1 miles, 6 days, 5 hours, 32 minutes.
(heavy on limited access)

I haven't dug through the route to find the differences yet, but
they're not very significant ---

Now, where were the possible rendezvous points?


On 12/13/05, Hans Neureiter  wrote:
 Attached map, if it doesn't get stripped, shows a treck from OkieQ to
 Prudhoe Bay @ 9,500 miles round trip. This is just about 2 1/2 weeks.
 ( - Winnipeg - Saskatoon - Edmonton - Whitehorse - Fairbanks - )

 --
 Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
 '82 300SD, '95 E300D

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
Yahoo! Shopping
 Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] ArcticQ - US rendezvous point
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Something like this is exactly what I had in  mind...with Denver being the main 
break up point (BUP) OR, forget the  BUP and set a claremore - deadhorse - 
claremore route  (different each way) and people peel off on the return route 
as  needed/wanted to get back home.
  
  Chris
  

Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  This is a route that avoids double 

Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Mike Piles
Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?

Thanks
Mike Piles

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:27 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: [MBZ] Year End Specials




 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
prices.

W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
Wagons
W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
http://www.BuyMBparts.com
1-800-741-5252




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Re: [MBZ] ArcticQ - WVO burning

2005-12-15 Thread redghost
I was thinking something more along the lines of a city bus 
reconfigured for arctic duty hauling, not holiday play.  No motorhome 
plush, more of the space dedicated to storage and processing for 
breakdowns and fuel/water support.  Have a welder/torch set up for 
roadside repairs.  Maybe a defibrillator for those of us older than our 
cars and in worse shape.  Base station for the radios and ability to 
drag cars out of melting permafrost




On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 07:24 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:


redghost wrote:


That is where the support vehicle with onboard processing would be
handy.  Take the WVO and toss it into a settling/separating tank and a
few hours later be able to dispense workable fuel.  Take the real 
waste

gunk and make bear cakes for feeding the scraps to grizzlies


The VeggieVan (Winnebago LeSharo) has a biodiesel processing trailer
that drags along behind it. If you can imagine a 240D motorhome towing
a trailer full of oil and equipment, you've got the general idea. I
believe the Renault 4 banger in the Winnie is about as strong as a 
240D.


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread redghost
Darn!!  not deals on 114/115 brakes?  Need some for Gump and was going 
to order before too much longer



On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 12:27 PM, Rusty Cullens wrote:




 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
prices.

W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
Wagons
W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
http://www.BuyMBparts.com
1-800-741-5252




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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Mitch Haley
Mike Piles wrote:
 
 Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?
 1-800-741-5252 is probably your best bet. (During
east coast business hours)



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

WOW

Rusty Cullens wrote:



 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
prices.

W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
Wagons
W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
http://www.BuyMBparts.com
1-800-741-5252




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Engine Vacuum pump question

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

you should have about 23 or so vacuum on either port.

Brian Smyla wrote:


The vacuum pump on the engine in my '86 300SDL has two ports; one is for the
brake booster, the other is a smaller port that appears to handle the
emission control system.  Does the pump supply vacuum to both of these
ports?  I have vacuum on the brake booster port, but not on the smaller
port.  Is this a normal condition?

 


Thanks in advance.

 


Brian Smyla

 


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.

On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?

 Thanks
 Mike Piles

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
 Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:27 PM
 To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
 Subject: [MBZ] Year End Specials




 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
 prices.

 W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
 W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
 Wagons
 W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
 W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

 W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
 W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

 OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
 OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

 Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 http://www.BuyMBparts.com
 1-800-741-5252




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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Kaleb will offer them $500

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Thats cool, I never knew anything about that.

redghost wrote:


http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/national/1120AP_Buried_Car.html

In 2007 Kaleb will have an opportunity to get a new car for maybe $500
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

they are probably the same as 123 brakes, the pads are anyways.

redghost wrote:

Darn!!  not deals on 114/115 brakes?  Need some for Gump and was going 
to order before too much longer



On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 12:27 PM, Rusty Cullens wrote:




These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
prices.

W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
Wagons
W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
http://www.BuyMBparts.com
1-800-741-5252




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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, especially if you are from canada.

LT Don wrote:


You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.

On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
Actually, I shouldn't trash Gary. I got him that last few times I called
(except I got Rusty for the most important order, but that was because I
asked for him).

Gary is good on the phone. He was very professional until he realized who I
was. And then he turned into Howard Stern on the wrong meds.

But in the end, in spite of himself, he guided me toward what I needed to go
along with the part I was ordering, etc. Yea, maybe he called me a few names
and was abusive (in a good natured way) and kept me on the phone for a long
time, but that is what builds long-term customers, letting them know that
you as a vendor really care about the customer and his/her needs.

Gary is very helpful on the phone. Prior to talking to him, I had no idea
that I had to periodically replace the air in my tires.

On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, especially if you are from canada.

 LT Don wrote:

  You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.
 
  On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?
 

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
I just ask my brother-in-law. He does this stuff for a living and is paid
quite well for being car smart.

On 12/13/05, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  How do you know when to replace the shocks?

 If it fails the traditional bounce test, they're bad.  But they
 may be somewhat bad long before that.  I think that if you've got
 100-200kmi on them, they'd probably benefit from replacement!

 I replaced the original ones in the rear of our SDL, at something
 like 180kmi, and I'm no longer sure exactly why.  (I'm sure I was
 chasing some symptom or another.)  But I kept the old ones, as I
 didn't really notice much difference with the new ones.  Those old
 used shocks were eventually put into the Chicken Wagon, replacing
 the non-OEM Kyb's that were there, for a noticeable improvement.

 -- Jim


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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-15 Thread eric peterson
what I did in a similar situation was put key in
switch and then hammer in a screwdriver next to the
key which gave me alot more leverage.  then I put vice
grips around the top of the screwdriver handle and
viola it turned.  I promptly drove it to my mechanic
and had him replace the tumbler before turning the key
to the off position.  I can't remember if I shut the
engine down with the kill switch or how I got it to
turn off without the key its been a year or two ago
now.  Good luck.

Eric
85 300CD

 
 If any listers can shed light on this question, I
 would appreciate. 
 Otherwise I am inclined to advise against the
 starting and go to 
 option no. 2 and drill out the lock assembly. Or is
 there even 
 another avenue to contemplate?
 
 Richard Becker
 London
 
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Re: [MBZ] Heater cold air

2005-12-15 Thread Marshall Booth

Donald Snook wrote:

What could make a heater blow cold air on a 82 126 diesel assuming the
car is up to operating temperature?  


Usually a bad monovalve or monovalve insert!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD

2005-12-15 Thread eric peterson
All I know is that is almost my cars twin.  Same yr,
same model, same color, and same mileage (well OK mine
has 500 more miles)  the only thing missing on mine is
the trailer hitch.  Did I miss something I don't see
any mention ablut a new transmission.

Eric
Crunched 85 300CD 87K

--- andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If a low milage 1979  240 D in comparable condition
 sold on ebay for
 $13,500, what will this one get?  It's a much nicer
 car model and far more
 fun to drive.  Any bets?  My guess is $12,250.
 
 On 12/14/05, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
  where does it say they replaced the transmission?
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Dec 14, 2005 8:32 AM
  To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD
 
  New transmission at less than 90K miles?  Trailer
 hitch?  Hmmm.
 
  Chris K
  Cayce, SC
 
 
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Desert Rat [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: kaleb list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:44 AM
  Subject: [MBZ] 1985 300CD
 
 
   Who was looking for a nice 300CD? Your MB has
 arrived.
   http://makeashorterlink.com/?T52E31F4C
  
   --
   John Freer
   Palm Springs, CA
   1992 500 SEL 140K Stardust
   1985 380SL 145K Blue Belle
  
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http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
  Luther   KB5QHU
  Alma, Ark
  '83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
  '82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi
 
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Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-15 Thread David Brodbeck

eric peterson wrote:

what I did in a similar situation was put key in
switch and then hammer in a screwdriver next to the
key which gave me alot more leverage.  then I put vice
grips around the top of the screwdriver handle and
viola it turned.  I promptly drove it to my mechanic
and had him replace the tumbler before turning the key
to the off position.


Just FYI -- I believe once you've gotten the key to turn, you can remove 
the tumbler and drive the car without it by turning the ignition switch 
with a screwdriver.  Might be handy if you can't take it to the mechanic 
right away.




[MBZ] bumper on 300CD

2005-12-15 Thread eric peterson
Are the rear bumpers on a 300CD the same as on a 300D
or are they specific to the coupe?

Eric
Crunched 85 300CD 87K

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Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-15 Thread David Brodbeck

Hans Neureiter wrote:

 And everyone I know calls the things that hold the wheels on my Benz a LUG
BOLT. Why?
  


Because of the analogy to lug nuts, I suppose.

My Vanagon had bolts in front and nuts in back!  Better not lose any, 
since you can't do the steal one each from the other three wheels trick.


Just to confuse you further, they aren't really bolts, they're hex 
head cap screws.  A bolt always has a nut on the other end.  If it goes 
into a threaded hole, it's a screw.  This is helpful to know if you ever 
need to get one from a company that specializes in fasteners.





Re: [MBZ] bumper on 300CD

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

they are the same, do you need one?

eric peterson wrote:


Are the rear bumpers on a 300CD the same as on a 300D
or are they specific to the coupe?

Eric
Crunched 85 300CD 87K

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
Shocks loose their damping ability long before they fail the bounce test.

If you feel your Mercedes float whe going over a rise in the road or the
front or rear end tend to rebound after going over a bump then you are
probably due.

Four things cause shock failure - they are:
Gas pressure loss
Fluid loss
Internal valving failure (internal wear)
Damper fluid breakdown

Only fluid loss can be measured from the outside because it's obvious.

It will be obvious that you needed shocks after you replace them.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of LT Don
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 7:22 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers


I just ask my brother-in-law. He does this stuff for a living and is paid
quite well for being car smart.

On 12/13/05, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  How do you know when to replace the shocks?

 If it fails the traditional bounce test, they're bad.  But they
 may be somewhat bad long before that.  I think that if you've got
 100-200kmi on them, they'd probably benefit from replacement!

 I replaced the original ones in the rear of our SDL, at something
 like 180kmi, and I'm no longer sure exactly why.  (I'm sure I was
 chasing some symptom or another.)  But I kept the old ones, as I
 didn't really notice much difference with the new ones.  Those old
 used shocks were eventually put into the Chicken Wagon, replacing
 the non-OEM Kyb's that were there, for a noticeable improvement.

 -- Jim


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1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread redghost

LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you 
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not 
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the 
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.


On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 05:20 PM, LT Don wrote:

Actually, I shouldn't trash Gary. I got him that last few times I 
called
(except I got Rusty for the most important order, but that was because 
I

asked for him).

Gary is good on the phone. He was very professional until he realized 
who I

was. And then he turned into Howard Stern on the wrong meds.

But in the end, in spite of himself, he guided me toward what I needed 
to go
along with the part I was ordering, etc. Yea, maybe he called me a few 
names
and was abusive (in a good natured way) and kept me on the phone for a 
long
time, but that is what builds long-term customers, letting them know 
that

you as a vendor really care about the customer and his/her needs.

Gary is very helpful on the phone. Prior to talking to him, I had no 
idea

that I had to periodically replace the air in my tires.

On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, especially if you are from canada.

LT Don wrote:


You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.

On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-15 Thread redghost
I have more VW bolts than I can shake a finger at.  If you need, I can 
supply by the wheel load.  They are much the same as the steel wheel 
bolts, but have the silly VW markings on them.  In a pinch I used some 
for when Gump wore steel before bundts



On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 05:55 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


Hans Neureiter wrote:
 And everyone I know calls the things that hold the wheels on my Benz 
a LUG

BOLT. Why?



Because of the analogy to lug nuts, I suppose.

My Vanagon had bolts in front and nuts in back!  Better not lose any,
since you can't do the steal one each from the other three wheels 
trick.


Just to confuse you further, they aren't really bolts, they're hex
head cap screws.  A bolt always has a nut on the other end.  If it 
goes
into a threaded hole, it's a screw.  This is helpful to know if you 
ever

need to get one from a company that specializes in fasteners.


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread David Brodbeck

redghost wrote:

LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you 
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not 
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the 
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.
  


But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  You 
probably need some parts from these guys:

http://www.kalecoauto.com/




[MBZ] 123 club

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Vince will probably be joining us soon.  He seems like a pretty good 
guy, FYI.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
You are supposed to use original german MB air in your tires.  I can 
provide free original german MB air for all who attend any OkieQ.


David Brodbeck wrote:


redghost wrote:


LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you 
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not 
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the 
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.
 



But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  You 
probably need some parts from these guys:

http://www.kalecoauto.com/


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] bumper on 300CD

2005-12-15 Thread eric peterson
I'll just pick one up locally Kaleb.  But thanks
anyway.  Still fighting with the insurance company but
at least I have the best case for a comparable that
you could get there is a twin to my car on ebay
right now.  Same yr, model, color even same mileage.
already at basically what the insurance company has
offered.  Got the papers today for filing suit against
them for the property damage.  And my lawyer will
handle the medical settlement. I'll just be glad when
it's over and I have either my car fixed or enough $$
to pay for it's replacement.

Eric
Crunched 85 300CD 87K

--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 they are the same, do you need one?
 
 eric peterson wrote:
 
  Are the rear bumpers on a 300CD the same as on a
 300D
  or are they specific to the coupe?
  
  Eric
  Crunched 85 300CD 87K
  
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 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
 
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
No ... he had to special order the air from Germany.

On 12/15/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 LT,

 did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
 that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
 OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
 air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.

 On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 05:20 PM, LT Don wrote:

  Actually, I shouldn't trash Gary. I got him that last few times I
  called
  (except I got Rusty for the most important order, but that was because
  I
  asked for him).
 
  Gary is good on the phone. He was very professional until he realized
  who I
  was. And then he turned into Howard Stern on the wrong meds.
 
  But in the end, in spite of himself, he guided me toward what I needed
  to go
  along with the part I was ordering, etc. Yea, maybe he called me a few
  names
  and was abusive (in a good natured way) and kept me on the phone for a
  long
  time, but that is what builds long-term customers, letting them know
  that
  you as a vendor really care about the customer and his/her needs.
 
  Gary is very helpful on the phone. Prior to talking to him, I had no
  idea
  that I had to periodically replace the air in my tires.
 
  On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, especially if you are from canada.
 
  LT Don wrote:
 
  You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.
 
  On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?
 
 
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
  Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
 
  ___
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 
 
  --
  1977 240D
  1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
 
  http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner

 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Engine Vacuum pump question

2005-12-15 Thread OK Don
The T on mine was cracked right where the line from the Vacuum pump
meets the bottom T - it wasn't obvious - had to look hard to find that
leak.

On 12/14/05, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 No, it's not.  Either the port itself or the line is plugged, probably.

 The hose coming up form the small port has a restriction in it (yellow
 plastic connector) that you may need to remove to get vac at the five
 way T connection.

 If you have vac at the T with all the lines plugged, verify that both
 lines going off to the passenger side hold vac -- if not, the actuator
 for the EGR and air recirc valve are blown.  You can replace them or
 just plug the lines at the T.

 The other two lines are for the tranny shift control (lack of vacuum
 will produce VERY hard shifts) and the climate control (no vac gives
 you conditioned air, but only out the defrost vent).

 Peter


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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] Kaleb will offer them $500

2005-12-15 Thread OK Don
I'd think the Belvedere would best be left buried -- --

On 12/14/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Thats cool, I never knew anything about that.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] Kaleb will offer them $500

2005-12-15 Thread Jim Cathey

I'd think the Belvedere would best be left buried -- --


The Belvedere was the namesake of the Chicken Wagon,
in fact.  (That's the car that the Foster Farms chickens
ride around in.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Loren Faeth

Sounds to me that you are all passing Okie gas

At 08:26 PM 12/14/2005, you wrote:

You are supposed to use original german MB air in your tires.  I can
provide free original german MB air for all who attend any OkieQ.

David Brodbeck wrote:

 redghost wrote:

LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.



 But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  You
 probably need some parts from these guys:
 http://www.kalecoauto.com/


 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread OK Don
I use Fina's Pink Air in mine -- is that as bad as using green coolant?

On 12/14/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 LT,

 did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
 that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
 OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
 air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread redghost
I am going to get fresh blinker fluid with the new blinker relay.  I 
suspect the old fluid is worn out and with a fresh relay, I will get 
better mileage than putting new fluid in a worn relay.


AS for Muffler bearings, I did replace the old rubber things with new, 
since the old made the muffler fall down and drag a few times.  When I 
get the new muffler, will get bearings to match.  No need to spend 
money right now on bearing when I will have to replace them in a few 
months when I order the full muffler.


I did not see the spec. 4.5.7 Radio hydraulics on Rusty's site.  Maybe 
I missed it, but I was sure that when I install the Becker, I will need 
some.  The funky little nipponese radio does not need it, but the old 
Europa is going to need some so that the dash speaker works.  Do I need 
to get new hoses too?


On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 06:25 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


redghost wrote:

LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.



But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  You
probably need some parts from these guys:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/


___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
The air must be MB approved.

On 12/15/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I use Fina's Pink Air in mine -- is that as bad as using green coolant?

 On 12/14/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  LT,
 
  did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
  that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
  OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
  air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
 The FSM created the Diesel Benz
 http://www.venganza.org/

 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread redghost
Can I mix up some air?  Sort of like the catholics and holy water where 
a few drops of pope blessed stuff makes the rest good?  I do know a few 
germans that may offer air.



On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 06:26 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


You are supposed to use original german MB air in your tires.  I can
provide free original german MB air for all who attend any OkieQ.

David Brodbeck wrote:


redghost wrote:


LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.




But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  
You

probably need some parts from these guys:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] 123 club

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
Will he become moderator of the new 123 list?

On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Vince will probably be joining us soon.  He seems like a pretty good
 guy, FYI.
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Kaleb will offer them $500

2005-12-15 Thread redghost
There is a fellow up in Victoria BC been trying to get takers for his 
on Craigslist for about a year


On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 06:50 PM, OK Don wrote:


I'd think the Belvedere would best be left buried -- --

On 12/14/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Thats cool, I never knew anything about that.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
Gary does sell us what we need, doesn't he?

On 12/15/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I am going to get fresh blinker fluid with the new blinker relay.  I
 suspect the old fluid is worn out and with a fresh relay, I will get
 better mileage than putting new fluid in a worn relay.

 AS for Muffler bearings, I did replace the old rubber things with new,
 since the old made the muffler fall down and drag a few times.  When I
 get the new muffler, will get bearings to match.  No need to spend
 money right now on bearing when I will have to replace them in a few
 months when I order the full muffler.

 I did not see the spec. 4.5.7 Radio hydraulics on Rusty's site.  Maybe
 I missed it, but I was sure that when I install the Becker, I will need
 some.  The funky little nipponese radio does not need it, but the old
 Europa is going to need some so that the dash speaker works.  Do I need
 to get new hoses too?

 On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 06:25 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:

  redghost wrote:
  LT,
 
  did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
  that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
  OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
  air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.
 
 
  But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  You
  probably need some parts from these guys:
  http://www.kalecoauto.com/
 
 
  ___
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 


 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner

 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] 123 club

2005-12-15 Thread Hendrik Riessen

Well he's got to be if he drives a 123  :-)

Hendrik
who saw a rare 240D manual today (should have left a note offering to buy 
it)


- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 12:55 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 123 club



Vince will probably be joining us soon.  He seems like a pretty good
guy, FYI.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Hendrik Riessen

You talking about reifenluft? What is the part number, I forgot?

Hendrik
running non-genuine air and it really handles like poo

- Original Message - 
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials



No ... he had to special order the air from Germany.

On 12/15/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.

On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 05:20 PM, LT Don wrote:

 Actually, I shouldn't trash Gary. I got him that last few times I
 called
 (except I got Rusty for the most important order, but that was because
 I
 asked for him).

 Gary is good on the phone. He was very professional until he realized
 who I
 was. And then he turned into Howard Stern on the wrong meds.

 But in the end, in spite of himself, he guided me toward what I needed
 to go
 along with the part I was ordering, etc. Yea, maybe he called me a few
 names
 and was abusive (in a good natured way) and kept me on the phone for a
 long
 time, but that is what builds long-term customers, letting them know
 that
 you as a vendor really care about the customer and his/her needs.

 Gary is very helpful on the phone. Prior to talking to him, I had no
 idea
 that I had to periodically replace the air in my tires.

 On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, especially if you are from canada.

 LT Don wrote:

 You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.

 On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?


 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 --
 1977 240D
 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

 http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

2005-12-15 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

How do you know when to replace the shocks ?  Does anybody ever just keep the 
orginals ?


Mercedes outlines a test for shocks. It requires that the shock be 
removed and measured. That's the ONLY accurate test. It requires a 
little more labor than just to replace the shock! Since it's rare that 
there is much question until the shock approaches (or often exceeds) 
100kmi (so is already thru at least half of it potential life). It's 
rare that it doesn't make sense to replace the shock rather than replace 
a shock that's well more than half worn out. Each of the my cars has 
benefited from shock replacement by 200kmi (long before they fail the 
bounce test). Heavier cars (or cars that are driven HARD) may require 
replacement sooner (some as soon as 100+kmi).


By the time a car fails the bounce test the shock is totally trashed 
and the driving characteristics of the car doesn't resemble anything 
Mercedes designed!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
Neither me nor my car has any problem with gas pressure failure. ... If we
could just harness that energy. We had enough gas at the last OkieQ to keep
all of our fleets (even Kleb's) riding firm into the next century. Can you
say brauts?

On 12/15/05, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Four things cause shock failure - they are:
 Gas pressure loss




--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
Actually, I heard somewhere that Oki gas could be used an emergency
substitute for original German MB air.

But you won't catch me following Kaleb around with a plastic bag to gather
some...

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 8:55 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials


Sounds to me that you are all passing Okie gas

At 08:26 PM 12/14/2005, you wrote:
You are supposed to use original german MB air in your tires.  I can
provide free original german MB air for all who attend any OkieQ.

David Brodbeck wrote:

  redghost wrote:
 
 LT,
 
 did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
 that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
 OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
 air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.
 
 
 
  But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  You
  probably need some parts from these guys:
  http://www.kalecoauto.com/
 
 
  ___
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
Marshall --

Which is more expensive, removing and testing the shock, or just replacing
it? I think Rusty's quote was $240 for four shocks and labor is free. Busted
knuckles and a visit to the ER not included in this cost estimate.

On 12/15/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Mercedes outlines a test for shocks. It requires that the shock be
 removed and measured. That's the ONLY accurate test.




--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
I suggest you follow Mr. Clean, not Kleb.

On 12/15/05, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Actually, I heard somewhere that Oki gas could be used an emergency
 substitute for original German MB air.

 But you won't catch me following Kaleb around with a plastic bag to gather
 some...

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
 Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 8:55 PM
 To: Mercedes mailing list
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials


 Sounds to me that you are all passing Okie gas

 At 08:26 PM 12/14/2005, you wrote:
 You are supposed to use original german MB air in your tires.  I can
 provide free original german MB air for all who attend any OkieQ.
 
 David Brodbeck wrote:
 
   redghost wrote:
  
  LT,
  
  did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you
  that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not
  OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
  air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.
  
  
  
   But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler
 bearings?  You
   probably need some parts from these guys:
   http://www.kalecoauto.com/
  
  
   ___
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
  
  
  
 
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


[MBZ] So what happens when...

2005-12-15 Thread Jim Vogel
  
you drop the small lightbulb for the gearshift into the gearshifter?
Is there a way to fish it out or is it safe to just drive it and get
a new one? 

Not sure what to do here...

Jim

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[MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Brian Smyla
Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
replies.  

 

I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
vacuum on the port to start with.

 

If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
I'm not going back.

 

Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.

 

And no, it's not worth going to court over.

 

And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
$1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.

 

Thanks for letting me vent.

 

Brian Smyla

 

 

 



Re: [MBZ] So what happens when...

2005-12-15 Thread LT Don
Hemostats. The electronics tech's best friend. You can probably borrow a
pair at the local ER.

On 12/15/05, Jim Vogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 you drop the small lightbulb for the gearshift into the gearshifter?
 Is there a way to fish it out or is it safe to just drive it and get
 a new one?

 Not sure what to do here...

 Jim

 __
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
Brian,

This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done
your homework on the car before purchasing it.

I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every
good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll
have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car
and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll
purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it.

My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned
it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at
least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have
been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's
still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is
depreciating and I won't complain.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant


Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
replies.



I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
vacuum on the port to start with.



If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
I'm not going back.



Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.



And no, it's not worth going to court over.



And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
$1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.



Thanks for letting me vent.



Brian Smyla







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Re: [MBZ] bumper on 300CD

2005-12-15 Thread Luther Gulseth

sounds like we need some bidders...

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:29:35 -0600, eric peterson  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I'll just pick one up locally Kaleb.  But thanks
anyway.  Still fighting with the insurance company but
at least I have the best case for a comparable that
you could get there is a twin to my car on ebay
right now.  Same yr, model, color even same mileage.
already at basically what the insurance company has
offered.  Got the papers today for filing suit against
them for the property damage.  And my lawyer will
handle the medical settlement. I'll just be glad when
it's over and I have either my car fixed or enough $$
to pay for it's replacement.

Eric
Crunched 85 300CD 87K

--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




--
Luther  KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix)
'82 300D '90 300E (both parts or can run??)



Re: [MBZ] 123 club

2005-12-15 Thread George Gregory
On 12/14/05 8:25 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Vince will probably be joining us soon.  He seems like a pretty good
 guy, FYI.


POT KETTLE BLACK

_
GG




Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Dave M.
Hi Brian,

I missed the type of car here, but I gather it's a W124 or W126 with
an OM603 engine. I've tinkered with those a little myself, and have a
couple of comments. First, you need to test vacuum directly at the
port on the pump - disconnect the hose that goes to the 4-way branch
fitting. If there's zero vacuum from the pump, the pump is bad (or the
port is blocked somehow). The pump isn't cheap, either. If the pump
does NOT have 4 Torx-head screws in the front cover, it should be
replaced on principle even if it is working OK.

Anyway, if there is a leak on any of the vacuum 'consumers', that can
cause all the other vacuum operated items to not function. That would
be the emissions junk (which can be disabled), the tranny (which will
shift harshly with no vacuum), and the climate control vent flaps. The
large port on the vac pump feeds both the power brake booster *and*
the engine shutoff. If the engine won't shut off, it could be the
diaphragm on the injection pump, a leak in the brake booster pipe, or
(once again) a bad vacuum pump.

It sounds like you have verified that the pump is bad, but first I'd
want to disconnect both ports, plug the large one, and measure at the
small one. A big leak on the main port could possibly cause no vacuum
present at the small port. (?) Don't mess around with that idler
pulley - the serpentine belt system is not something to screw with, it
can cause the timing cover to fracture (read  to fix). If the belt
isn't perfectly parallel at the tensioner/idler pulleys, REPLACE the
idler lever. The idler puley only needs replacement if the bearing is
bad. Only use an OE (Genuine Mercedes) belt shock - the eyelet
bushings are different than the OEM (aftermarket) shocks.

I'm sorry you had a bad experience with that shop. I remember Stefan's
name from the previous (MBZ.org) list, I had forgotten he sold the
car. Wasn't that a 350SDL...?


Best regards,

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)


 --
 Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:37:38 -0500
 From: Brian Smyla [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

 Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
 I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
 warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
 engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
 told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
 car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
 the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
 only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
 replies.

 I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
 claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
 picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
 my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
 was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
 and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
 the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
 plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
 comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
 problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
 arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
 told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
 pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
 under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
 in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
 vacuum on the port to start with.



 If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
 I'm not going back.

 Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
 replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
 from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
 mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.
 And no, it's not worth going to court over.

 And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
 assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
 Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
 intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
 head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
 $1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.

 Thanks for letting me vent.

 Brian Smyla




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread redghost

I think I would prefer Nitrogen or propane to Okie gas in the tires

On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 07:15 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:


Actually, I heard somewhere that Oki gas could be used an emergency
substitute for original German MB air.

But you won't catch me following Kaleb around with a plastic bag to 
gather

some...

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 8:55 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials


Sounds to me that you are all passing Okie gas

At 08:26 PM 12/14/2005, you wrote:

You are supposed to use original german MB air in your tires.  I can
provide free original german MB air for all who attend any OkieQ.

David Brodbeck wrote:


redghost wrote:


LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure 
you
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are 
not

OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.




But do you have the proper OEM blinker fluid and muffler bearings?  
You

probably need some parts from these guys:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] 123 club

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

uh, no

LT Don wrote:


Will he become moderator of the new 123 list?

On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Vince will probably be joining us soon.  He seems like a pretty good
guy, FYI.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Stefan?  Is he on this list?

Tom Hargrave wrote:


Brian,

This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done
your homework on the car before purchasing it.

I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every
good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll
have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car
and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll
purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it.

My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned
it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at
least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have
been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's
still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is
depreciating and I won't complain.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant


Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
replies.



I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
vacuum on the port to start with.



If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
I'm not going back.



Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.



And no, it's not worth going to court over.



And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
$1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.



Thanks for letting me vent.



Brian Smyla







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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Reynolds
Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.  
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

At 06:19 PM 12/14/2005 -0800, you wrote:

LT,

did he offer you the proper Teutonic Air or was he able to assure you 
that common Iowa air is good enough for the tires, since they are not 
OEM and long out of warranty?   I am sure I do not need to order the 
air from Rusty, as I am using nasty cheapo tires on Gump.

On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 05:20 PM, LT Don wrote:

 Actually, I shouldn't trash Gary. I got him that last few times I 
 called
 (except I got Rusty for the most important order, but that was because 
 I
 asked for him).

 Gary is good on the phone. He was very professional until he realized 
 who I
 was. And then he turned into Howard Stern on the wrong meds.

 But in the end, in spite of himself, he guided me toward what I needed 
 to go
 along with the part I was ordering, etc. Yea, maybe he called me a few 
 names
 and was abusive (in a good natured way) and kept me on the phone for a 
 long
 time, but that is what builds long-term customers, letting them know 
 that
 you as a vendor really care about the customer and his/her needs.

 Gary is very helpful on the phone. Prior to talking to him, I had no 
 idea
 that I had to periodically replace the air in my tires.

 On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, especially if you are from canada.

 LT Don wrote:

 You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.

 On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?


 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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 --
 1977 240D
 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

 http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
 ___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
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Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/193 - Release Date: 12/06/2005





Re: [MBZ] OT: US influences Canada's car market

2005-12-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
It's interesting, awhile back I got a thing from one of my banks trying 
to get me to buy a new car so they could be kind enough to collect 
interest from me, and I noticed they had a few stipulations  on some car 
makes that they wouldn't loan money on, Scion was on the list, along 
with suzuki,  KIA, and  that other korean one that I don't think was 
around long after I got the ad, and a number of other makes with 
questionable dealer support.
I wish I had kept the ad, it was rather telling of which car companies 
just weren't doing it.


--Robert

Mitch Haley wrote:

Steve MacSween wrote:
  

No, the name just came to me: Xion, I think.

It's a whole different line, something like Lexus is to Toyota, aimed at Gen
Y consumers. The ones I am seeing up here are the minivan-line thingies.



That's Scion. Supposed to sell the cars at full list price, like Saturn. 
They ship base models, and then the dealer adds the options. If I could

get an xA for $10k, I'd do it, but I'm not paying $13k for one. Might be
worth $13k for people who usually pay for options on cars, it comes
standard with 160W stereo, ABS, A/C, power windowsmirrors, remote locks...
http://www.edmunds.com/new/scion/index.html

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Re: [MBZ] I wouldnt put this crap on my car

2005-12-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Those kind of things with the exposed filters or the cold air intakes 
are ok for a gas burner the lower compression makes thm a tad more 
forgiving, but if you put one on a diesel you'd better live in Death 
Valley, or plan on parking whenever it starts raining or you'll likely 
suck up a belly full of water into the engine. It doesn't take much on a 
diesel before it's all over but the crying.
Diesel air filter housings are generally designed carefully with the 
thought of shedding water in mind.


I've known a few people with VW and Volvo diesels who have gone that 
route with the sexy air intake setups, and blown the engines that way. 
One did it, just going through a big puddle at an intersection.


-Robert

David Brodbeck wrote:

Harry  M. wrote:

Those setups are called cold air intakes, they increase the airflow
to the engine and believe it or not have been proven to increase
power.


What was shown in the ebay link was *not* a cold air intake.  It was 
under the hood.  A true cold air intake needs to draw outside air, 
not under-hood air.  An example of a *stock* cold air intake is the 
air intake on a Volvo 240.  The airbox is connected to an intake pipe 
that runs around the radiator and opens just behind the grille.




I found a setup for my Miata and with a nice exhaust it added
a extra 20hp at the rear wheels.


Have you verified that with a dyno, or is it just seat of the pants? 
In the dyno testing I've seen, even on old American cars with really 
restrictive air cleaners the gain was usually less than 5 hp.  Often 
it was less than the variation between runs.  If you've really gained 
20 hp, it's probably mostly from the exhaust.


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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Mitch Haley
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 
 Stefan?  Is he on this list?

I don't think so. He was on Diesel, then took a temporary assignment in
Mexico. He was looking at 350SDLs and gassers, don't remember if he bought
one.



Re: [MBZ] OT: US influences Canada's car market

2005-12-15 Thread Mitch Haley
Robert  Tara Ludwick wrote:
 
 It's interesting, awhile back I got a thing from one of my banks trying
 to get me to buy a new car so they could be kind enough to collect
 interest from me, and I noticed they had a few stipulations  on some car
 makes that they wouldn't loan money on, Scion was on the list, along
 with suzuki,  KIA, and  that other korean one that I don't think was
 around long after I got the ad, and a number of other makes with
 questionable dealer support.

I can't believe that Toyota/Scion was on the list. Those cars are never
discounted and have at least the resale value of a Corolla. And they are
sold by Toyota dealers for the most part, and backed by Toyota. I guess it's
possible the bank was wary of Scion in the first year they used the name,
but it's like being wary of Acura or Lexus.



Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Brian Smyla
Thanks, Tom.

Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probably need another $2k to
get it 'perfect', including paint.  Yes, I believe the car is worth it,
since I'll probably drive it much longer than something I'd buy for $30 -
40K at a dealership.

You're right about the 'caveat emptor' clause, but my complaint is more
along the lines of dishonesty within the classic Benz owners' community.  

Brian Smyla


-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 10:57 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

Brian,

This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done
your homework on the car before purchasing it.

I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every
good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll
have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car
and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll
purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it.

My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned
it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at
least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have
been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's
still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is
depreciating and I won't complain.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant


Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
replies.



I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
vacuum on the port to start with.



If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
I'm not going back.



Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.



And no, it's not worth going to court over.



And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
$1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.



Thanks for letting me vent.



Brian Smyla







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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Brian Smyla
Hi, Dave.

Thanks for the good information, I'll follow up on some of that today.

The car is an '86 300SDL.  I believe a crash destroyed his 350 about 6
months after I bought the 300, and he spent some time in the hospital as a
result, according to his posts to the list.

-Brian Smyla


-Original Message-
From: Dave M. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 12:03 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

Hi Brian,

I missed the type of car here, but I gather it's a W124 or W126 with
an OM603 engine. I've tinkered with those a little myself, and have a
couple of comments. First, you need to test vacuum directly at the
port on the pump - disconnect the hose that goes to the 4-way branch
fitting. If there's zero vacuum from the pump, the pump is bad (or the
port is blocked somehow). The pump isn't cheap, either. If the pump
does NOT have 4 Torx-head screws in the front cover, it should be
replaced on principle even if it is working OK.

Anyway, if there is a leak on any of the vacuum 'consumers', that can
cause all the other vacuum operated items to not function. That would
be the emissions junk (which can be disabled), the tranny (which will
shift harshly with no vacuum), and the climate control vent flaps. The
large port on the vac pump feeds both the power brake booster *and*
the engine shutoff. If the engine won't shut off, it could be the
diaphragm on the injection pump, a leak in the brake booster pipe, or
(once again) a bad vacuum pump.

It sounds like you have verified that the pump is bad, but first I'd
want to disconnect both ports, plug the large one, and measure at the
small one. A big leak on the main port could possibly cause no vacuum
present at the small port. (?) Don't mess around with that idler
pulley - the serpentine belt system is not something to screw with, it
can cause the timing cover to fracture (read  to fix). If the belt
isn't perfectly parallel at the tensioner/idler pulleys, REPLACE the
idler lever. The idler puley only needs replacement if the bearing is
bad. Only use an OE (Genuine Mercedes) belt shock - the eyelet
bushings are different than the OEM (aftermarket) shocks.

I'm sorry you had a bad experience with that shop. I remember Stefan's
name from the previous (MBZ.org) list, I had forgotten he sold the
car. Wasn't that a 350SDL...?


Best regards,

--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)


 --
 Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:37:38 -0500
 From: Brian Smyla [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

 Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump
port.
 I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
 warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
 engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and
was
 told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
 car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port
on
 the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
 only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
 replies.

 I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
 claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
 picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem
with
 my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
 was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was
missing,
 and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours
checking
 the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left
a
 plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
 comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
 problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket (
after
 arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist
),
 told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
 pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it
wasn't
 under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem
was
 in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's
no
 vacuum on the port to start with.



 If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
 I'm not going back.

 Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove
the
 replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
 from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts
(motor
 mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.
 And no, it's not worth going to court over.

 And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
 assured me that the only thing 

Re: [MBZ] I wouldnt put this crap on my car

2005-12-15 Thread Levi Smith
At one point I saw an article on some sort of safety device for the air
intake (just for the reasons you mentioned) I forget exactly how/what it
was, but some sort of T in the line that would get air elsewhere due to
pressure or something.  The part I remember was they had the guy's NSX on a
dyno and shoved the end of his intake into a fish tank.  They had him do a
full dyno test on it.  You could see the water get sucked up the pipe a
ways, but never far enough to get in...
There were a couple variables I could question, but it was interesting if
nothing else.  (:

Levi

On 12/15/05, Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Those kind of things with the exposed filters or the cold air intakes
 are ok for a gas burner the lower compression makes thm a tad more
 forgiving, but if you put one on a diesel you'd better live in Death
 Valley, or plan on parking whenever it starts raining or you'll likely
 suck up a belly full of water into the engine. It doesn't take much on a
 diesel before it's all over but the crying.
 Diesel air filter housings are generally designed carefully with the
 thought of shedding water in mind.

 I've known a few people with VW and Volvo diesels who have gone that
 route with the sexy air intake setups, and blown the engines that way.
 One did it, just going through a big puddle at an intersection.

 -Robert

 David Brodbeck wrote:
  Harry  M. wrote:
  Those setups are called cold air intakes, they increase the airflow
  to the engine and believe it or not have been proven to increase
  power.
 
  What was shown in the ebay link was *not* a cold air intake.  It was
  under the hood.  A true cold air intake needs to draw outside air,
  not under-hood air.  An example of a *stock* cold air intake is the
  air intake on a Volvo 240.  The airbox is connected to an intake pipe
  that runs around the radiator and opens just behind the grille.
 
 
  I found a setup for my Miata and with a nice exhaust it added
  a extra 20hp at the rear wheels.
 
  Have you verified that with a dyno, or is it just seat of the pants?
  In the dyno testing I've seen, even on old American cars with really
  restrictive air cleaners the gain was usually less than 5 hp.  Often
  it was less than the variation between runs.  If you've really gained
  20 hp, it's probably mostly from the exhaust.
 
  ___
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It isn't what you have, or who you are, or where you are, or what you are
doing that makes you happy or unhappy. It is what you think about.
-Dale Carnegie


Re: [MBZ] OT: Scion

2005-12-15 Thread Dan Weeks
Yep, Scion. My folks (mid-70s, definitely NOT the target market) 
bought an Xa a year ago. My Dad says it's the most fun to drive since 
his first car, a '52 MGTD. No problems with it, get 40 mpg in mixed 
backroad/town driving. I've driven it--handles nicely, goes pretty 
well if you wind it up, feels very taught and of good quality.


Dan


Mitch Haley wrote:

Steve MacSween wrote:


No, the name just came to me: Xion, I think.

It's a whole different line, something like Lexus is to Toyota, aimed at Gen
Y consumers. The ones I am seeing up here are the minivan-line thingies.



That's Scion. Supposed to sell the cars at full list price, like 
Saturn. They ship base models, and then the dealer adds the 
options. If I could

get an xA for $10k, I'd do it, but I'm not paying $13k for one. Might be
worth $13k for people who usually pay for options on cars, it comes
standard with 160W stereo, ABS, A/C, power windowsmirrors, remote locks...
http://www.edmunds.com/new/scion/index.html

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Dan Weeks
Freelance Writing and Photography
515/279-4825
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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Rusty Cullens
Call us at 1-800-741-5252 Monday through Friday 9:00am till 5:00pm EST.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Piles
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 7:12 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?

Thanks
Mike Piles

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:27 PM
To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
Subject: [MBZ] Year End Specials




 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
prices.

W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
Wagons
W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
http://www.BuyMBparts.com
1-800-741-5252




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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Rusty Cullens
Correct.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of LT Don
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 8:00 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

You call and ask to speak to anyone other than Gary.

On 12/15/05, Mike Piles [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Rusty how do I take advantage of this special?

 Thanks
 Mike Piles

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
 Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 2:27 PM
 To: 'Mercedes mailing list'
 Subject: [MBZ] Year End Specials




 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY kick---
 prices.

 W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
 W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
 Wagons
 W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
 W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

 W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
 W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

 OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
 OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

 Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 http://www.BuyMBparts.com
 1-800-741-5252




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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Rusty Cullens
The rears are the fronts aren't. Here is the deal, we will be wheeling
and dealing on all parts for he rest of the year. If you need something
call us, we'll make it worth your while.

1-800-741-5252



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 8:10 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

they are probably the same as 123 brakes, the pads are anyways.

redghost wrote:

 Darn!!  not deals on 114/115 brakes?  Need some for Gump and was going

 to order before too much longer
 
 
 On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 12:27 PM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
 
 

 These are good ONLY until December 31st 2005 and they are VERY
kick---
prices.

W123 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $150
W124 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $185 No
Wagons
W126 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $195
W201 FrontRear Brake Kit. Pagid Pads, Balo Rotors  Sensors $180

W123 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $230
W126 Bilstein HD Shock Set (4) $254

OEM Diesel Oil Filter Kit $7
OEM Diesel Fuel Filter Set (2) $7

Bosch Diesel Glow Plugs Most Diesels From 1977 to 1987 $11

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
http://www.BuyMBparts.com
1-800-741-5252




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 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner
 
 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

2005-12-15 Thread Tan Qu
Marshall,

The brake hoses (all 4 of them) and the rear calipers
(ATE) are new. I never changed the differential fluid
for whole time I owned this car (from 100k to now
250k). There was no leaks or anything last time I was
under the car. I am hoping some new differential
mounts may solve the problem but am having hard time
to find the parts at Rusty's website. I need to give
him a call. How long the differential mounts and flex
plates tend to last on the W201's in your experience?


Tan


--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Tan Qu wrote:
  Our '87 190Dt started to make some noise from the
 back
  of the car, more likely from where the rear end
 is.
  When the car accelerate from standstill (for
 exmaplen
  at a stop sign), the car feels being dragged, the
  engine RPM goes up but the actual car speed does
 not
  seem to go up and there is this churning sound
 from
  the back of the car. This happens mostly where the
 car
  makes right-hand turn from at the stop sign. 
  
  I have replaced all brake pads and flushed the
 brake
  system thinking it was a dragging pad but it
 didn't
  seem to solve the problem. I am planning on to go
 back
  to lube the caliper pins to see if it would help.
  
  Could it be a sign that the differential or the
 axles
  are failing? It gives me a feeling the rear end
 wasn't
  engaged and the transmission spins without load
 when
  this happens. Or could it be failing companion
  coupling at the drive shaft or even the
 differential
  mount?
  
  Car has about 250k miles on it. Both the engine
 mounts
  and transmission mount were replaced not long ago.
  
 
 If the rear brake hoses have delaminated (not
 unusual after 15+ years) 
 that MIGHT result in what you describe. If the
 differential mounts have 
 failed that can allow the differential/axle assembly
 to twist and that 
 can cause binding too. Not sure about the effects
 when some of the link 
 bushings fail.
 
 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
 questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
 turbo 237kmi
 
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Re: [MBZ] ArcticQ - WVO burning

2005-12-15 Thread Christopher McCann
A support vehicle would be helpful and if you want  to pull it together, go for 
it...but  I think it's overkill. For  example,. found the website of a lady who 
drove 21,000 around the US  and to Deahorse in a Kia Sephia...found another one 
of a guy who went  to Deadhorse in what looked like a Geo Metro - he arrived 
12/13 -drove  the Dalton the whole way in the dark - only reflectors kept him 
on the  road.
  
  So if these people can do it, like that, it seems a bus/support vehicle is 
overkill. 
  
  Now, watch my SD break a spring and be the only one that needs the services 
of a support vehicle!
  
  Chris

redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I was thinking something more along the 
lines of a city bus 
reconfigured for arctic duty hauling, not holiday play.  No motorhome 
plush, more of the space dedicated to storage and processing for 
breakdowns and fuel/water support.  Have a welder/torch set up for 
roadside repairs.  Maybe a defibrillator for those of us older than our 
cars and in worse shape.  Base station for the radios and ability to 
drag cars out of melting permafrost



On Wednesday, December 14, 2005, at 07:24 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 redghost wrote:

 That is where the support vehicle with onboard processing would be
 handy.  Take the WVO and toss it into a settling/separating tank and a
 few hours later be able to dispense workable fuel.  Take the real 
 waste
 gunk and make bear cakes for feeding the scraps to grizzlies

 The VeggieVan (Winnebago LeSharo) has a biodiesel processing trailer
 that drags along behind it. If you can imagine a 240D motorhome towing
 a trailer full of oil and equipment, you've got the general idea. I
 believe the Renault 4 banger in the Winnie is about as strong as a 
 240D.

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
Yahoo! Shopping
 Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping 
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 An example of a *stock* cold air intake is the
 air intake on a Volvo 240.  The airbox is connected to an intake pipe
 that runs around the radiator and opens just behind the grille.

Another such example is the air intake of a 300 SDL.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Maybe he didnt know the head was cracked.

Brian Smyla wrote:


Thanks, Tom.

Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probably need another $2k to
get it 'perfect', including paint.  Yes, I believe the car is worth it,
since I'll probably drive it much longer than something I'd buy for $30 -
40K at a dealership.

You're right about the 'caveat emptor' clause, but my complaint is more
along the lines of dishonesty within the classic Benz owners' community.  


Brian Smyla


-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 10:57 PM

To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

Brian,

This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done
your homework on the car before purchasing it.

I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every
good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll
have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car
and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll
purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it.

My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned
it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at
least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have
been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's
still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is
depreciating and I won't complain.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant


Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port.
I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work
warranted the engine for 30 days.  The day after I picked the car up, the
engine wouldn't stop.  I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was
told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo.  I took the
car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on
the pump.  Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports
only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your
replies.



I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement.  The shop owner
claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I
picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with
my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley
was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing,
and various bolts were missing here and there.  I spent three hours checking
the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a
plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that
comes off the monovalve.  I returned the car for repair of the other
problems.  They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after
arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ),
told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler
pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't
under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was
in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no
vacuum on the port to start with.



If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA.
I'm not going back.



Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the
replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount
from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor
mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference.  Go figure.



And no, it's not worth going to court over.



And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who
assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges.  Flew to
Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been
intermittently working.  Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked
head.  All 6 cylinders.  Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a
$1k concession.  I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that.



Thanks for letting me vent.



Brian Smyla







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Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Donald Snook
Rusty wrote:

 

Here is the deal, we will be wheeling and dealing on all parts for he
rest of the year. If you need something call us, we'll make it worth
your while.

 

Sounds like Rusty is going to make us an offer we can't refuse. 

 

Donald H. Snook

 



[MBZ] OT: Genset

2005-12-15 Thread Jim Cathey

Thought I'd keep y'all up to date since there has been some interest
in this in the past:

December 5, 2005

Remounted the positive battery cable to eliminate the short to ground,
then hooked up the battery bank and tried flipping the start switch.
Nothing.  I jumpered the start terminal on the solenoid and it clanked
nicely, but there was no sign of engine turnover.  I didn't have any
more time to mess with it today as I spent most of the day working on
the snowblower.  (Again.)  I don't even know if it was drawing any
starting current, nor whether the feeble battery bank was capable
of driving anything more than the solenoid.

December 12, 2005

With holiday parties temporarily put to bed I was able to look at the
genset again.  Armed with a couple sheets of enlarged schematics, two
as-charged-as-they'll-ever-be crap batteries and the Fluke I went out
into the cold.  With the battery bank hooked up, I was able to find
that +24V was not making it to the Start/Stop switch, yet did make it
to the emergency stop switch.  According to the schematic the most
likely offending party was the overspeed switch, or if not installed,
Jumper #1.  I looked at the terminal block where the switch would have
been hooked up, and found a jumper.  OK; what I did _not_ find
were _two_ screws hooking the jumper to the block: I only found
one.  So I raided the junkbox to find a suitable screw and hooked it
back up properly.  With that done, the Start switch now had power to
it, so I flipped it on.  CHUNK!  The starter relay fired.  A second or
so later, it was CHUNKA-CHUNKA-CHUNKA...  The feeble battery bank was
dying, causing rapid cycling of the solenoid.  One of the two 12V
batteries reads 0V during this condition.  The motor never did turn
over, but according to the Fluke I only was getting 100A or so at the
peak of current draw.  Hardly enough, I'd think.  I'm going to need
some real battery power to proceed much further.  I put the feebs
back on the charger anyway.

December 13, 2005

I cleaned up and resoldered the ruined positive battery clamp back to
its cable.  (Acetylene sure makes this kind of heavy heating a snap.)
I hope this will end up being part of the inter-battery tie cable.
Interestingly enough, the clamp is brass, not the more common lead.

I pulled the spark plugs and tried 'starting' it again.  No joy, so I
put a wrench on the tail of the exciter and twisted at the same time.
It didn't take much of a twist and the set started turning, about a
half second before the batteries died again.  I really need new
batteries!

...I went out and bought two used batteries at the U-Pull.  $26, I
hope that this will cure the problems for now.  When I got home, I put
them on the charger for tomorrow.  I bought the two biggest batteries
they had.  Not matched in size, c'est la vie.

December 14, 2005

I hooked up the 'new' batteries, and hit the start button.
WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA...  Hooray!  The thing spun over easily, at a
pretty good clip.  I put the spark (paint!) plugs back in, and tried
again.  WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA...  Cool, this thing is going to work!
It draws more than 350A initial starting current, this drops off
pretty good once it's spinning.  I notice no sparking or any other
evilness on the exciter/starter, so that's OK.  The shop rag over the
exhaust port bellies up nicely when it's spinning.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Rusty Cullens
Yup.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:57 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

Rusty wrote:

 

Here is the deal, we will be wheeling and dealing on all parts for he
rest of the year. If you need something call us, we'll make it worth
your while.

 

Sounds like Rusty is going to make us an offer we can't refuse. 

 

Donald H. Snook

 

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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Curt Raymond
Hey Tom,
   
  I'm currently going through that with my 190D. I won't even talk about how 
much I paid, but I decided I was going to make it into a very nice car before I 
started driving it.
  Brakes
  Thermostat
  Monovalve
  flexjoint
  motormounts
  ball joint
  tie rod end
  switches
  drivers seat
   
  On that last point, does anybody have a driver's seat for a w201? I have a 
quote of $500 to rebuild it with a new seat frame. I wonder if this is 
something I could do myself and save some money?
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D 2.2l 5spd
   
  Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 21:57:06 -0600
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Brian,

This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have 
done
your homework on the car before purchasing it.

I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into 
every
good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that 
I'll
have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out 
the car
and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that 
I'll
purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it.

My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I 
owned
it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at
least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and 
have
been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's
still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is
depreciating and I won't complain.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



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Brian,

I agree with Kaleb. He may not have known that the head was cracked,
particularly if he was an owner who drove the car 3 miles to work and back.

But on the other hand, you can't tell who's a crook and who's not and it's
up to he buyer (You and I) to check out a car. An honest seller will have no
problem with you doing your homework and will be earnestly concerned if you
uncover a major issue.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 8:56 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant


Maybe he didnt know the head was cracked.

Brian Smyla wrote:

 Thanks, Tom.

 Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probably need another $2k
to
 get it 'perfect', including paint.  Yes, I believe the car is worth it,
 since I'll probably drive it much longer than something I'd buy for $30 -
 40K at a dealership.

 You're right about the 'caveat emptor' clause, but my complaint is more
 along the lines of dishonesty within the classic Benz owners' community.

 Brian Smyla


 -Original Message-
 From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 10:57 PM
 To: Mercedes mailing list
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

 Brian,

 This all 

Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials

2005-12-15 Thread Curt Raymond
My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks out. 
I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll actually 
get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store brand) and 
maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on 
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some 
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.  
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:

My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks
out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on 
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some 
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.  
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset

2005-12-15 Thread Harry Watkins
Jim

Good deal, sounds like you are close to success.  You're a good writer and I
always enjoy what you have to report, however, I still envy your
justification to own a Unimog.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 Thought I'd keep y'all up to date since there has been some interest
 in this in the past:

 December 5, 2005

 Remounted the positive battery cable to eliminate the short to ground,
 then hooked up the battery bank and tried flipping the start switch.
 Nothing.  I jumpered the start terminal on the solenoid and it clanked
 nicely, but there was no sign of engine turnover.  I didn't have any
 more time to mess with it today as I spent most of the day working on
 the snowblower.  (Again.)  I don't even know if it was drawing any
 starting current, nor whether the feeble battery bank was capable
 of driving anything more than the solenoid.

 December 12, 2005

 With holiday parties temporarily put to bed I was able to look at the
 genset again.  Armed with a couple sheets of enlarged schematics, two
 as-charged-as-they'll-ever-be crap batteries and the Fluke I went out
 into the cold.  With the battery bank hooked up, I was able to find
 that +24V was not making it to the Start/Stop switch, yet did make it
 to the emergency stop switch.  According to the schematic the most
 likely offending party was the overspeed switch, or if not installed,
 Jumper #1.  I looked at the terminal block where the switch would have
 been hooked up, and found a jumper.  OK; what I did _not_ find
 were _two_ screws hooking the jumper to the block: I only found
 one.  So I raided the junkbox to find a suitable screw and hooked it
 back up properly.  With that done, the Start switch now had power to
 it, so I flipped it on.  CHUNK!  The starter relay fired.  A second or
 so later, it was CHUNKA-CHUNKA-CHUNKA...  The feeble battery bank was
 dying, causing rapid cycling of the solenoid.  One of the two 12V
 batteries reads 0V during this condition.  The motor never did turn
 over, but according to the Fluke I only was getting 100A or so at the
 peak of current draw.  Hardly enough, I'd think.  I'm going to need
 some real battery power to proceed much further.  I put the feebs
 back on the charger anyway.

 December 13, 2005

 I cleaned up and resoldered the ruined positive battery clamp back to
 its cable.  (Acetylene sure makes this kind of heavy heating a snap.)
 I hope this will end up being part of the inter-battery tie cable.
 Interestingly enough, the clamp is brass, not the more common lead.

 I pulled the spark plugs and tried 'starting' it again.  No joy, so I
 put a wrench on the tail of the exciter and twisted at the same time.
 It didn't take much of a twist and the set started turning, about a
 half second before the batteries died again.  I really need new
 batteries!

 ...I went out and bought two used batteries at the U-Pull.  $26, I
 hope that this will cure the problems for now.  When I got home, I put
 them on the charger for tomorrow.  I bought the two biggest batteries
 they had.  Not matched in size, c'est la vie.

 December 14, 2005

 I hooked up the 'new' batteries, and hit the start button.
 WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA...  Hooray!  The thing spun over easily, at a
 pretty good clip.  I put the spark (paint!) plugs back in, and tried
 again.  WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA-WOOKA...  Cool, this thing is going to work!
 It draws more than 350A initial starting current, this drops off
 pretty good once it's spinning.  I notice no sparking or any other
 evilness on the exciter/starter, so that's OK.  The shop rag over the
 exhaust port bellies up nicely when it's spinning.

 -- Jim





Re: [MBZ] OT: US influences Canada's car market

2005-12-15 Thread Curt Raymond
That surprises me as Scion = Toyota and anybody thats ever priced a used Camry 
has seen Toyota's magic at work.
  I had a Kia Optima as a rental once. It was a decent car, gas mileage was not 
its high point (about 24mpg with a 4cyl) but better than a Chevy Cobalt (also 
4cyl) I had (about 20mpg, yuck!) and I drove the stink out of it. Decent power, 
I had it in San Francisco and it had plenty to pull the hills there.
  
Suzuki also makes a decent product but is underrated in my opinion. The Vitara 
is surprisingly a good woods truck. My Dad had a Chevy Tracker which was just a 
rebadged Vitara (you could even buy parts from the Suzuki dealer and save 
money) and it was excellent in the woods. In fact the Tracker was MUCH better 
in the woods than his Jeep Liberty which is Trail Rated. I dunno what trail 
they rated it on but we dragged the Liberty about everywhere we went last 
November.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:37:26 -0600
From: Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: US influences Canada's car market
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

It's interesting, awhile back I got a thing from one of my banks trying 
to get me to buy a new car so they could be kind enough to collect 
interest from me, and I noticed they had a few stipulations  on some 
car 
makes that they wouldn't loan money on, Scion was on the list, along 
with suzuki,  KIA, and  that other korean one that I don't think was 
around long after I got the ad, and a number of other makes with 
questionable dealer support.
I wish I had kept the ad, it was rather telling of which car companies 
just weren't doing it.

--Robert



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Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is no
moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3 - 4
times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)


Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:

My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks
out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.

  -Curt

  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 

Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Reynolds
List,
Is that what the stores do who fill up tires with nitrogen?
Thanks,
Tom

At 09:49 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:

Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is no
moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3 - 4
times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)


Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:

My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks
out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.

  -Curt

  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Reynolds
Actually, upon looking at the statement, temperature changes will affect
nitrogen the same that's not true.  Being more inert (less water content)
than compressed air, a nitrogen filled tire will not be nearly as affected
by temperature variations as a compressed air filled tire.  Thus, it's
safer, easier to control for racing conditions (one less variable to worry
about), etc.  Used by airlines and NASCAR for the two reasons cited above,
and the list goes on, check Google.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

At 09:54 AM 12/15/2005 -0700, you wrote:

List,
Is that what the stores do who fill up tires with nitrogen?
Thanks,
Tom

At 09:49 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:

Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is no
moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3 - 4
times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)


Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:

My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks
out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.

  -Curt

  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Hargrave
Probably not and at 32 PSI, you will end up with 1/3 air mixed with 2/3 pure
nitrogen. The results still are better than just air since you will have 1/3
the moisture in your tires.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:55 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End
Specials)


List,
Is that what the stores do who fill up tires with nitrogen?
Thanks,
Tom

At 09:49 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:

Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is no
moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3 - 4
times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)


Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:

My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks
out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.

  -Curt

  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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[MBZ] Sweet Vegas Ride, Yo

2005-12-15 Thread Bob Rentfro
Mercy

http://makeashorterlink.com/?N2BD3415C

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 144K
Litchfield Park, AZ
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 15 16:21:35 2005
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End  Specials)
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Kinda like filling up at Sunoco with their blended pumps.  Remember that?
 Is Sunoco still around, and if so, do they still give you the option of
Sunoco 260 and down to whatever their lowest grade was?
Hmmm
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

At 10:15 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:

Probably not and at 32 PSI, you will end up with 1/3 air mixed with 2/3 pure
nitrogen. The results still are better than just air since you will have 1/3
the moisture in your tires.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:55 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End
Specials)


List,
Is that what the stores do who fill up tires with nitrogen?
Thanks,
Tom

At 09:49 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:

Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is no
moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3 - 4
times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)


Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:

My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks
out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.

  -Curt

  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
There is a big sunoco refinery over in west tulsa your direction, close 
to the big sinclair refinery.


Tom Reynolds wrote:


Kinda like filling up at Sunoco with their blended pumps.  Remember that?
 Is Sunoco still around, and if so, do they still give you the option of
Sunoco 260 and down to whatever their lowest grade was?
Hmmm
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

At 10:15 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:


Probably not and at 32 PSI, you will end up with 1/3 air mixed with 2/3 pure
nitrogen. The results still are better than just air since you will have 1/3
the moisture in your tires.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:55 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End
Specials)


List,
  Is that what the stores do who fill up tires with nitrogen?
Thanks,
Tom

At 09:49 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:


Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is no
moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3 - 4
times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)


Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
Best,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK
At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:


My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any leaks


out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D I'll
actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than store
brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.


-Curt

Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79

Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps on
so
you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some
major
stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 

Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Sunil Hari
If there's a Tire Discounters where you are, they exclusively use nitrogen
to fill all the tires they sell.

I think it's a gimmick, though - you're not driving fast enough to really
take advantage of the properties of nitrogen filling.

On 12/15/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 There is a big sunoco refinery over in west tulsa your direction, close
 to the big sinclair refinery.

 Tom Reynolds wrote:

  Kinda like filling up at Sunoco with their blended pumps.  Remember
 that?
   Is Sunoco still around, and if so, do they still give you the option of
  Sunoco 260 and down to whatever their lowest grade was?
  Hmmm
  Best,
  Tom Reynolds
  Sand Springs, OK
 
  At 10:15 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:
 
 Probably not and at 32 PSI, you will end up with 1/3 air mixed with 2/3
 pure
 nitrogen. The results still are better than just air since you will have
 1/3
 the moisture in your tires.
 
 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
 Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:55 AM
 To: Mercedes mailing list
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End
 Specials)
 
 
 List,
Is that what the stores do who fill up tires with nitrogen?
 Thanks,
 Tom
 
 At 09:49 AM 12/15/2005 -0600, you wrote:
 
 Temperature changes will affect the nitrogen the same. The real gain is
 no
 moisture but to get there you need to fill  bleed out the nitrogen 3
 - 4
 times so that all of the air is purged out of the tire.
 
 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Reynolds
 Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:40 AM
 To: Mercedes mailing list
 Subject: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)
 
 
 Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen
 fillups.
 Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a
 lot
 less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
 place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?
 Best,
 Tom Reynolds
 Sand Springs, OK
 At 07:35 AM 12/15/2005 -0800, you wrote:
 
 My local Tire Warehouse offers nitrogen, offers free refills if any
 leaks
 
 out. I've been sort of thinking that when I put new skins on the 190D
 I'll
 actually get nice tires for the first time in my life (rather than
 store
 brand) and maybe get the nitrogen, its only like $6 more.
 
  -Curt
 
  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 00:22:16 -0700
 From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Year End Specials
 To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-ED93C79
 
 Outsmart everyone.  Fill with nitrogen and then put green valve caps
 on
 so
 you know it's not air in there any more.  Actually, I think some
 major
 stores are doing just that, maybe even Costco.
 Best regards,
 Tom Reynolds
 Sand Springs, OK
 
 __
 Do You Yahoo!?
 Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
 http://mail.yahoo.com
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 
 --
 Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
 Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
 Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.13.12/193 - Release Date:
 
 12/06/2005
 
 
 
 --
 Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
 Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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 12/06/2005
 
 
 
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 12/06/2005
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Scion

2005-12-15 Thread Sunil Hari
the real gem of the Scion lineup is the tC - stick shift, looks good, gets
good mileage, and is built on a proven, reliable platform.  At around
$17,000, it's a pretty good deal if you're wanting (or settling for) a 2
door.

On 12/15/05, Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yep, Scion. My folks (mid-70s, definitely NOT the target market)
 bought an Xa a year ago. My Dad says it's the most fun to drive since
 his first car, a '52 MGTD. No problems with it, get 40 mpg in mixed
 backroad/town driving. I've driven it--handles nicely, goes pretty
 well if you wind it up, feels very taught and of good quality.

 Dan

 Mitch Haley wrote:
 Steve MacSween wrote:
 
 No, the name just came to me: Xion, I think.
 
 It's a whole different line, something like Lexus is to Toyota, aimed
 at Gen
 Y consumers. The ones I am seeing up here are the minivan-line
 thingies.
 
 
 That's Scion. Supposed to sell the cars at full list price, like
 Saturn. They ship base models, and then the dealer adds the
 options. If I could
 get an xA for $10k, I'd do it, but I'm not paying $13k for one. Might be
 worth $13k for people who usually pay for options on cars, it comes
 standard with 160W stereo, ABS, A/C, power windowsmirrors, remote
 locks...
 http://www.edmunds.com/new/scion/index.html
 
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Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen

2005-12-15 Thread dieselbenz24
I was in Guadalajara Mexico this Summer and there were car washers that were 
pushing this, they seemed to be having a lot of success getting customers.  
Surprised people would pay for this, sort of, luxury item.
 
Dan
82 300D-T 90kmi

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and email virus protection.


Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen

2005-12-15 Thread R A Bennell
I understand it helps to prevent leaks with aluminum wheels. Exactly why, I
am not sure?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 8:32 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen


I was in Guadalajara Mexico this Summer and there were car washers that were
pushing this, they seemed to be having a lot of success getting customers.
Surprised people would pay for this, sort of, luxury item.

Dan
82 300D-T 90kmi

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spam and email virus protection.
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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Marshall Booth

Curt Raymond wrote:

Hey Tom,
   
  I'm currently going through that with my 190D. I won't even talk about how much I paid, but I decided I was going to make it into a very nice car before I started driving it.

  Brakes
  Thermostat
  Monovalve
  flexjoint
  motormounts
  ball joint
  tie rod end
  switches
  drivers seat
   
  On that last point, does anybody have a driver's seat for a w201? I have a quote of $500 to rebuild it with a new seat frame. I wonder if this is something I could do myself and save some money?


A 201 DOESN'T have a monovalve (124/126s have them). It has a vacuum 
operated heater valve that can't be repaired and requires replacement 
about every 12-15 years but that only costs about $20.


In where part of the country are you located and what color are the 
seats in your 190D??


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset

2005-12-15 Thread Jim Cathey

I still envy your justification to own a Unimog.


Humph, the justification was pretty much I want it.  The rest
has all been rationalization and make-work!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Marshall Booth

Tom Reynolds wrote:

Yep, I think I'm going to look around the Tulsa area for nitrogen fillups.
Being more inert than the common air from compressed air pumps, it's a lot
less likely to be affected by temperature changes.  Anyone know of any
place in the Tulsa area that can fill up tires with nitrogen?


The air surrounding us is 80% nitrogen! The removal of the 20% that 
consists MOSTLY of oxygen and carbon dioxide doesn't substantially 
change the way the gas reacts to temperature. There are some theoretical 
advantages to using nitrogen compared to using air, but the reward 
doesn't begin to warrant the cost (the reward is extremely small and the 
cost in money and aggravation is relatively MUCH larger IN MY OPINION).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Jim Cathey
On that last point, does anybody have a driver's seat for a w201? I 
have
a quote of $500 to rebuild it with a new seat frame. I wonder if this 
is something I could do myself and save some money?


It is very common to take a donor passenger seat and to combine parts
to make a good driver's seat.  I have a seat set for the 201 (or did I
have two?), and the best passenger cover is now in our 107.  We do now
own a 201 car, so I may well be using my extra parts.  I vowed not to
touch the 190D until the genset was back together again, so it's
getting close.

A pair of front seats is $20 at the U-Pull here, that's where I got
the extras.  I figured $20 for a good seat cover that might work in
the SL was a good deal, and any extra use I got out of them would be
gravy.

Shipping entire seats is a bit of a killer, though.  Your best bet
(cost-wise) is to find something locally.  To be fair, your $500 will
get you an as-new seat, other approaches will give you somewhat less.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

2005-12-15 Thread Marshall Booth

Tan Qu wrote:

Marshall,

The brake hoses (all 4 of them) and the rear calipers
(ATE) are new. I never changed the differential fluid
for whole time I owned this car (from 100k to now
250k). There was no leaks or anything last time I was
under the car. I am hoping some new differential
mounts may solve the problem but am having hard time
to find the parts at Rusty's website. I need to give
him a call. How long the differential mounts and flex
plates tend to last on the W201's in your experience?


Differential mounts have been replaced in two of the 5 201s I've owned. 
They probably last 15-18 years or about 200kmi. They are responsible for 
positioning the differential and rear axle. The subframe mounts have the 
primary job of isolating the differential from the chassis and changing 
from 201 to 202 subframe mounts quiets differential noise A LOT!


What you are describing is NOT a common complaint and I don't have a 
sure-fire answer for it - I'm GUESSING.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen

2005-12-15 Thread Lee Levitt
Dan writes:

 
 I was in Guadalajara Mexico this Summer and there were car 
 washers that were pushing this, they seemed to be having a 
 lot of success getting customers.  Surprised people would pay 
 for this, sort of, luxury item.

It's a brand extension of the oxygen bar.

Lee





Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

2005-12-15 Thread Tom Scordato

Hans said

What I was told is if you push the bumper down and let go, it should come 
up

and stay there. If it bounces up and down  - needs new shocks.


Not always the case.  I did this test on my 1977 300D.  Passed with flying 
colors, when I did the push test.   But still drove like trash.  Had old 
monroe shocks on it.  Changed to Bilestiens.  Best thing I ever did.


Regards Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
1977 300D
1979 240D
- Original Message - 
From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers


What I was told is if you push the bumper down and let go, it should come 
up

and stay there. If it bounces up and down  - needs new shocks.

Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

On 12/13/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How do you know when to replace the shocks ?  Does anybody ever just keep
the orginals ?--


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Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

2005-12-15 Thread Tan Qu
Does W201 use the same differential mounts as the W124
or other models? I can find the mounts for W124 at
Rusty's website but not for W201. Also, is there a
particular reason you used W202 subframe mount in lieu
of the original W201 mounts just part availability
issue?


Tan


--- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Tan Qu wrote:
  Marshall,
  
  The brake hoses (all 4 of them) and the rear
 calipers
  (ATE) are new. I never changed the differential
 fluid
  for whole time I owned this car (from 100k to now
  250k). There was no leaks or anything last time I
 was
  under the car. I am hoping some new differential
  mounts may solve the problem but am having hard
 time
  to find the parts at Rusty's website. I need to
 give
  him a call. How long the differential mounts and
 flex
  plates tend to last on the W201's in your
 experience?
 
 Differential mounts have been replaced in two of the
 5 201s I've owned. 
 They probably last 15-18 years or about 200kmi. They
 are responsible for 
 positioning the differential and rear axle. The
 subframe mounts have the 
 primary job of isolating the differential from the
 chassis and changing 
 from 201 to 202 subframe mounts quiets differential
 noise A LOT!
 
 What you are describing is NOT a common complaint
 and I don't have a 
 sure-fire answer for it - I'm GUESSING.
 
 Marshall
 -- 
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
 questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
 turbo 237kmi
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant -NOW SEATS

2005-12-15 Thread Tan Qu
In my experience, the driver seat in the W201 does not
provide as good lumbar support as the W124 or even my
old W123 240D seat. If you can find an used W124 E320
orthopedic seat and make it work you will be very
happy, especially if you are going to make long trips
in that car.


Tan

--- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  On that last point, does anybody have a driver's
 seat for a w201? I 
  have
  a quote of $500 to rebuild it with a new seat
 frame. I wonder if this 
  is something I could do myself and save some
 money?
 
 It is very common to take a donor passenger seat and
 to combine parts
 to make a good driver's seat.  I have a seat set for
 the 201 (or did I
 have two?), and the best passenger cover is now in
 our 107.  We do now
 own a 201 car, so I may well be using my extra
 parts.  I vowed not to
 touch the 190D until the genset was back together
 again, so it's
 getting close.
 
 A pair of front seats is $20 at the U-Pull here,
 that's where I got
 the extras.  I figured $20 for a good seat cover
 that might work in
 the SL was a good deal, and any extra use I got out
 of them would be
 gravy.
 
 Shipping entire seats is a bit of a killer, though. 
 Your best bet
 (cost-wise) is to find something locally.  To be
 fair, your $500 will
 get you an as-new seat, other approaches will give
 you somewhat less.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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 http://www.buymbparts.com/
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Scion

2005-12-15 Thread Curt Raymond
A guy I work with drove one and didn't like it, said it felt cheap. For 
reference he drives a '99 Acura Integra. Also interesting to note is a 
comparably equipped Civic or Corolla is cheaper...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:28:37 -0500
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Scion
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

the real gem of the Scion lineup is the tC - stick shift, looks good, 
gets
good mileage, and is built on a proven, reliable platform.  At around
$17,000, it's a pretty good deal if you're wanting (or settling for) a 
2
door.



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers
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Tom S.,

A big part of your issue was Monroe verses Bilstien.

I put Monroe shocks on one of my Mercedes once and will never do it again.
They were dead in 12,000 miles. I don't know for sure but I believe that the
Mercedes just wore out the hydraulic fluid inside the shocks. They still had
their gas charge and the car still passed the bounce test when I pulled them
off.

Just go ahead and purchase your Bilstien shocks from Rusty. Both Rusty and
you Mercedes will appreciate you for the new shocks.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 11:32 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers


Hans said

 What I was told is if you push the bumper down and let go, it should come
up
 and stay there. If it bounces up and down  - needs new shocks.

Not always the case.  I did this test on my 1977 300D.  Passed with flying
colors, when I did the push test.   But still drove like trash.  Had old
monroe shocks on it.  Changed to Bilestiens.  Best thing I ever did.

Regards Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
1977 300D
1979 240D
- Original Message -
From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers


 What I was told is if you push the bumper down and let go, it should come
 up
 and stay there. If it bounces up and down  - needs new shocks.

 Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
 '82 300SD, '95 E300D

 On 12/13/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How do you know when to replace the shocks ?  Does anybody ever just keep
 the orginals ?--

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant

2005-12-15 Thread Curt Raymond
Jiminy crickets, learn something new every day!
  Is there an online source for the 201 manual? I want to fix this, the PO 
bubba'd in a manual shutoff valve in the heater hose.
   
  I'm in New England. The interior is tan, but a lighter tan than my 240D. I 
think I'm probably up to swapping the upholstry (which is not perfect but good 
enough) if I had a seatbottom that wasn't all squashed out and broken. theres 
obviously a broken spring in the drivers seat although its not currently 
sticking through the seat there is a hole.
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:46:58 -0500
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

  A 201 DOESN'T have a monovalve (124/126s have them). It has a vacuum 
operated heater valve that can't be repaired and requires replacement 
about every 12-15 years but that only costs about $20.

In where part of the country are you located and what color are the 
seats in your 190D??

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 
2.5 
turbo 237kmi



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the '85 300D my parents bought from Kaleb had Monroe's on it.  HOW DARE YOU 
Kaleb!  Ok, I know it was the PO.

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 15, 2005 12:51 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers

Tom S.,

A big part of your issue was Monroe verses Bilstien.

I put Monroe shocks on one of my Mercedes once and will never do it again.
They were dead in 12,000 miles. I don't know for sure but I believe that the
Mercedes just wore out the hydraulic fluid inside the shocks. They still had
their gas charge and the car still passed the bounce test when I pulled them
off.

Just go ahead and purchase your Bilstien shocks from Rusty. Both Rusty and
you Mercedes will appreciate you for the new shocks.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 11:32 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers


Hans said

 What I was told is if you push the bumper down and let go, it should come
up
 and stay there. If it bounces up and down  - needs new shocks.

Not always the case.  I did this test on my 1977 300D.  Passed with flying
colors, when I did the push test.   But still drove like trash.  Had old
monroe shocks on it.  Changed to Bilestiens.  Best thing I ever did.

Regards Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
1977 300D
1979 240D
- Original Message -
From: Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear Shock Absorbers


 What I was told is if you push the bumper down and let go, it should come
 up
 and stay there. If it bounces up and down  - needs new shocks.

 Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
 '82 300SD, '95 E300D

 On 12/13/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How do you know when to replace the shocks ?  Does anybody ever just 

Re: [MBZ] Filling tires with nitrogen (was Re: Year End Specials)

2005-12-15 Thread Rob Vonderhaar
So does Costco, as well as my favorite independent tire chain - neither
charges anything extra for it, and both are happy to check pressure and add
more anytime it's needed.  But only Costco seems to use the neat green caps!
 Rob

-Original Message-
From: Sunil Hari
If there's a Tire Discounters where you are, they exclusively use nitrogen
to fill all the tires they sell.




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