A piece of a plastic bag tied to a string, then sucked with a shop vac
works well, I would be concerned that cotton could get wet and not be
effective. We used the bag method often for sucking a string through up to
300' of conduit underground.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Halcyon
I would assume so, but can't say for sure. Our mk2 has one and it's a great
stove.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Halcyon Passage
https://www.facebook.com/halcyonpassage
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35* (for sale)*
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 6:15 AM Della
Hello all,
Our search for our next boat to head offshore is finally over, and we take
possession tomorrow to begin a major refit on her. She is a 1978 Fast
Passage 39, and the original owner wanted us to be her next caretakers,
despite us saying no - they made an offer we couldn't refuse, and we
How much did they charge? Mine has been sitting in a box for a few years
due to a cracked dome and slow leak.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Tue, May 30, 2023 at 9:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
I'd go with the Datcon, and if you want to be sure of the RPM, buy or
borrow an optical tach to calibrate it. Handheld optical tachs are about
$30 online.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sun, Apr 23, 2023 at 6:08 PM Dennis C.
Interesting read, but definitely more applicable to deck coring rather than
hull. My understanding is that hull coring failures usually result in much
larger areas and require a full peel as a result.
Callisto's deck was extensively repaired with epoxy during a year-long
refit by a previous owner
Thanks, all for the feedback on the LF43. We have decided to pass on the
boat recently listed on FB (Tarquin). The decision was based on a
combination of price and some unexplained water damage on the starboard
side that made me uncomfortable. Additional photos also showed too many
owner additions
e,
> the water will pass the balsa core and drip into the boat, alerting the
> owner to rebed the fitting.
>
> Many balsa cored boats are sailing offshore and around the world.
>
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>
>
>
>
>
> On 03/20/2023 7:0
As we once again consider a boat with cored hull (LF43 or LF38), I am
reminded of why we eventually chose our current 35 four years ago. I
couldn't be sure of the hull integrity without an expensive survey, and at
the low price range we could afford, avoiding a cored hull just removed
this
Only three LF43s that I know of for sale right now, 2 on YW, and one on FB.
No idea how many were made, and I suspect any that have seen hull damage in
the past 10-15 years were instantly written off (which of course is a
concern for offshore...)
We are also considering the Nelson-Marek designed
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the feedback. Raven looks great! How is the mainsheet clearance
for the aft end of the enclosure? Looks like it might be close. Do you have
a traveller or just two blocks for the mainsheet? It looks like you don't
have the inner forestay, but do have a babystay? I notice most
Hi Dave,
Yes, I have spent far too much time thinking about and looking at boats,
and it gets exhausting. I have looked at a few Whitbys, and while they are
comfortable, look ok, and have a nice layout, the full keel is a turn off
for me, and I find their fit and finish pretty mediocre inside.
I have, they are not too common, and usually well out of our price range.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 5:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Looked at a Caliber 40 LRC?
>
>
Hi Dave,
Thanks for chiming in, some good points there. I have noticed that
relationship between cockpit sole height/boom height and aft cabin space,
and it is one thing I dislike about many of the newer C, although I
could probably get used to it. I recall spending a few hours in a 37+ and
then
Hi Kevin and other Landfall 43 owners:
"Sails well for what it is"... that's what concerns me... not sure I am
ready to sail a Hunter-bago! I know it won't accelerate or turn like my 35,
but I need to be sailing if there's wind, not motoring, as that would not
work for me.
So what is the minimum
Hello all,
After years and many models considered for an offshore boat, a Landfall 43
has come along which seems to tick most of the boxes, and at a price we can
afford. Most of the boats I really like are way out of our price range
(Hylas, Passport, Tayana, etc)
So I am hoping to hear from
The panels on my 35-2 are white plexiglass, and it is very pretty,
especially with the multitude of screw holes around the perimeter of each.
Possibly the 36 has a better mounting method. I'd prefer something more
forgiving than plexi though, and might just investigate a nice spray finish
while
Most like these are Atkins & Hoyle, one has been replaced on my 35. I was
able to carefully drill out and re-tap one of the locking screws on mine to
replace the seal. Of course, I need to do it again, as the seal I made was
too thick, and the handle is very stiff.
I carry a lot of tools, but did cull some of them after the first season,
as many were duplicates which came with the boat but were of inferior
quality, or were badly corroded.
I have a large plastic toolbox with: complete screwdriver set (plus a good
multi tip driver), (3 each of standard,
Until I made a sailpack and lazy jacks, I often avoided the main if big
winds were called for, as we'd had to douse it in 30+ a few times, which
wasn't fun. Now I don't hesitate to hoist the main, especially up wind. But
even downwind, I've found we can carry a full main up to 25 with no issues,
The preventer setup describe is exactly what we used on the boat we sailed
back from Maui to Victoria this summer. The control lines for the spin pole
were also used for preventer, one on each side. The preventer lines ran
along the boom and were stored at a cleat on the boom near the gooseneck
Sorry to hear about your health. From the photos, she looks very nice with
plenty of upgrades, and thanks for sharing the photos, as I have so far
only seen a LF38 in photos. I only wish we were closer!
Best wishes.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
Interesting read. Fortunately Callisto's keel and bolts seem to be in great
shape. One thing not covered in the article was lightning damage. A
friend's Hylas was just discovered to have keel damage caused by a
lightning strike, and had to have the keel dropped and re-bedded, and
presumably some
As a long time VW diesel owner, I've changed my share of glow plugs on both
IDI and TDI engines. They will generally last 10 years or more if not run
too long, The older (80s vintage) 1.6 IDI diesel on Callisto has a manual
button for the glow plugs, and I will try to avoid using more than 5
che' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2022 at 3:49 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just got back from almost 6 weeks on our 35-2, but it has a custom Solent
>> rig with two furlers, 135 on outer, 95 on inner. At
I have a 5:1 which I picked up from a parts 35 a few years ago, and it's a
great improvement. If the cam cleat is hard to release, it usually means I
should have reefed 5 knots ago...
I use a snap shackle to the traveller car for quickly swinging the boom to
the rail when at anchor.
Currently
Just got back from almost 6 weeks on our 35-2, but it has a custom Solent
rig with two furlers, 135 on outer, 95 on inner. At the halfway point, the
old Harken mk1 furler top swivel exploded and rained bearings on the deck,
fortunately on the way in, not out.
Anyway, that meant rigging our 95
You should be able to hear the solenoid click when power is applied. If
not, either it has failed, is stuck, or the connections need cleaning up.
In my case, I once had it stick closed due to an accumulation of a waxy goo
which became quite viscous when cold. I assume this was due to moisture and
We're so jealous! Meanwhile, I hope to get to our boat (near Victoria)
after the latest snowfall, and before tomorrow's forecasted 50kn winds.
If we don't find an offshore boat in the next few months, we will consider
finding one in S.Cal or Mexico and keeping Callisto for summer sailing in
BC.
We added an EmTrak B951 last spring and it has been great, more useful than
radar in most cases (although radar was great the few times we needed it -
we were even able to spot humpbacks nearby that we could hear while
ghosting along in the fog). A big advantage of AIS is being able to hail
Great story! The only Chance design I've seen, that I know of, was an off
30' boat that appeared briefly at our club, don't recall the name of it,
but it had several odd things about the design. No idea where it went,
haven't seen it since.
I like the idea of twin headsails for shorthanded
eattle delivery the engine failed and it took us
> 3 or 4 days to effect repairs. Once again the fresh and frozen food
> spoiled. This time we had great fishing gear and passionate fishermen on
> the crew. If you can make a lure look like a flying fish to a Mahi-Mahi or
> Tuna los
Thanks for sharing, Randy. As we are seeking our offshore boat, there are
lots of lessons to be learned from this story, but the opening sentences
would have had enough red flags to send me running from this boat!
"Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been
offshore. He
I considered putting my Vulcan 9 at the helm, but decided to mount it under
the hard dodger instead. Better visibility from anywhere in the cockpit,
and I can easily move it to the nav desk using the same cables if I want (I
have a cable conduit through the deck under the dodger). Not ideal for
Can you share any photos of the bolts in question? Are these above deck, or
below? I'm not aware of any aluminum bolts in my pedestal, but they may
have been replaced with stainless steel. There is one SS round head machine
screw that is loose and has no material left to grab (threads stripped
Callisto (35-2) came with an identical setup to what Rick describes below
(including poles in storage...), and the line-adjustable spin-pole car is
very beefy (Merriman most likely). I removed the car and lines to simplify
things as there is no way two of us are handling the heavy spin pole when
I'm using a Ubiquiti Bullet with 9db antenna as a booster, connected to a
basic home router, total cost about $200CAD, uses very little power on a
small inverter. The Bullet requires you to choose a wireless network using
their web interface, and a bit of other setup to work correctly. For now I
igns Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
> On Nov 7, 2021, at 2:25 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> What's the story on the 39, and the Northeast name? Only 7 built, and very
> high D/B ratio, if sailboatdata is correct.
>
>
Thanks
What's the story on the 39, and the Northeast name? Only 7 built, and very
high D/B ratio, if sailboatdata is correct.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sun, Nov 7, 2021 at 8:36 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
Ericson and Camper Nicholson also used glassed-in stainless steel
chainplates that can be a major pain to replace. My 35-2 appears to be
leak-free at the chainplates, but this thread has me thinking I need to
check them again. The only leak we've had lately is the centre stand-up
block behind the
I used Pettit zinc spray and found it did little to stop barnacle growth
after a year. Last haul out I reapplied the zinc spray after sanding down
to bronze (Campbell Sailor fixed 3 blade), and then brushed two coats of
Pettit Horizons ablative paint, but I won't know if this is better until
next
I know this has veered a bit off the original thread asking about fitment
issues, so I figured I might as well chime in now that we're sufficiently
off course... ;)
My 35-2 came with an old ComNav autopilot which drives a RayMarine wheel
pilot drive, not sure which vintage. The ComNav seems
Thanks, Don, this seems to confirm my findings on our 35-2 - although we
don't race, we often are trying to make some miles on long downwind runs.
While I haven't done too much testing since getting real instruments, it
seems that I can sail deeper downwind as the wind builds and still get a
good
wer is telling me it's time to gybe.
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/06/2021 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> I don't race, but do use VMG when trying to get our best time to
> destination, especially on longer days. This works well enough in many long
> channels and
I don't race, but do use VMG when trying to get our best time to
destination, especially on longer days. This works well enough in many long
channels and inlets with wind aligned with our course, but sometimes it's
not aligned. In these instances I'll have to try this trick for fooling the
VMG by
I admit that I had to Google it, after which I was amazed at: a) how many
boats have this name, and b) how badly my memory is slipping, as I used to
watch the show a lot...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Thu, Sep 30, 2021 at
Great read! Interesting how many of the boxes our 35 also ticks on your
"get real" list, which is very similar to a list I would write. The 3
burner stove/oven, for example, is a must - we often use all 3 burners, and
the oven to make bread and pizza, but it's amazing how many newer, larger
boats
I like the idea of an integrated compass and wind sensor, as I am currently
dealing with possible compass calibration issues; either that or my boat
points 7-10deg higher on the port tack, which doesn't seem likely. As a
result, I don't pay much attention to the TWA/AWA numbers and go by
telltales
Since the price is similar, I'd go for the Victron, for their many choices
of integration with other products in their line. So far I only have a
100/20 SmartSolar, but it has worked well for us.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Now that we're back home to local waters of BC's Gulf Islands where good
anchorages are every few miles, and not trying to get anywhere, I am
enjoying just sailing where the wind and current take us. I'm finding
surprising speed on reaches... Yesterday we almost caught up to a Beneteau
that was
Hi Joel,
I'm interested in hearing more... where is she located?
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sun, Sep 5, 2021 at 11:12 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I got a case of 5 foot itis. We
This one has my vote, as it happened several times when I was pulling my
halyards back in with the mast horizontal - the thin lines would jump the
sheave and get jammed. I suggest going aloft on a jib halyard to inspect.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
On our 35-2, the area around the mast collar had wet core, and was repaired
(drilled & filled with epoxy) by the previous owner 20 years ago. This area
is now very solid, basically all epoxy. The mast collar has 4 bolts through
the deck, but also a SS strap on each side, and these are connected
That explains why I can't find any holes below. Thanks, I will stop looking
for them, although it does make me wonder what the holes on deck were for.
Possibly mounts for the spin pole, or furling line fairleads, which used to
run along the base of the cabin top I think.
--
On Wed, Jun 9, 2021 at
rews had worked
> loose due to hull flexing. Yes the boat creaks when sailing, but after 40
> years of sailing her you ignore that noise (also failing hearing??).
>
> Don Kern
> *Fireball, *C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
>
> On 6/9/2021 10:15 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>
My 35 mk2 apparently had these, but they have been removed. I have not seen
a close up of any boats that still had them, so would be interested in some
photos. I don't see any signs that anything was done to replace them with
any kind if adhesive; the holes are just filled on the deck. The
Lots of good info on this thread. I'm not too familiar with the 33-2, but
will share a bit of what was done (by the PO) on my 35-2 which might be
relevant if the water from the anchor locker is a problem (it appears to be
from higher up though). On the 35-2, the original anchor locker appears to
Cool! Now the question is: do I add stars to my 35 so people recognize it
as a C, or do I leave it for the more learned to figure out? ;)
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 12:30 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Wow. Wiring between the deck layers? So far, I've only discovered wires
between the deck and liner, which is bad enough when it comes time to
replace them in some areas where they've been bonded in, and no easy
alternate route exists.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
FYI, this is the boat from our club involved in a collision last fall (with
another C 30!) during a race. It was written off by insurance, the owner
bought it back and then sold it, as it had a brand new Sole diesel engine.
The current seller (not the owner from our club) presumably bought it and
There is a Mirage 33 across the dock from me (and a friend has a 35, which
is the same with a reverse transom), and it is definitely very different
from a C below the waterline. Nice boat and a nice interior.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
Sorry, my bad. I don't use email nearly as often as I used to, but that's
not really an excuse. I'll try to trim my replies as well, another faux pas
of which I've been guilty of!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sun, May 9,
I think this is the same as the forward ports on the mk2, and if so, I have
an old Fuller Brush opening port in my head that fits. No longer made, but
they do seem very durable, and mine does not leak (although I never open
it). Maybe you can find them somewhere; I've contacted Fuller Brush to get
gree very good. Everything about the way they built only 147 35
> MKII hulls was superb and has stood the test of time. Shear lines are very
> appealing. The boat is quick yet has the “big boat” feel at the helm. And
> rides the seas like a thoroughbred.
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2021 at
I think it was acetone that I used also, which worked very well to remove
the red stains from polishing my red paint. I have to remember to do it
before waxing, or it will also take the wax off... which I forgot to do
this year, so I will see if the rain will wash the red spots off.
Whatever
Good to see! Still no racing here, and most of the distance races for the
season have already been cancelled :(
But I did manage to sneak a sail on a very fun boat at our club last night
when the skipper wanted a few extra crew for a quick sail at sunset. It's a
CM1200, and a very quick boat. At
Our 35-2 has a modest reverse transom, and the through-hull I got would
have just allowed for drainage, but I decided to put on the aft quarter,
about 12" forward of the transom edge. The heater is just below the deck,
so it's all downhill to the outlet, and I've had no issues so far. Many
newer
We used a spray bottle mix of vinegar, vegetable oil, and lemon juice all
last season, which seemed to help a little bit (a few squirts right at the
end of each flush so it sits in the lines). However, when I had it apart
this spring (got a near new toilet for $50), I was surprised how much build
In my case, the issue was forwarding to another GMail account, and that I
send from a different account than I receive emails. So if you have more
than one GMail account in play, ensure the "never mark as spam" filter is
on all of them.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C
I am facing a similar decision now. My two jib halyards were new when I
bought her two years ago, and are still like new. They appear to be a good
low stretch double braid with a distinctive square pattern; I've been told
it looks like Marlow. They are quite thin, 5/16" or so, but seem to have no
Sorry I missed it! By the time I remembered, it was 45 minutes in and I was
fighting with rivets trying to install conduit in my mast... The job is
mostly done now. I also discovered that one of my headsail halyards was on
the wrong side of the upper shroud compression tube, and had sawn a nice
e plastic wrap).
>
> Advice?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2021-04-18 10:44 p.m., Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
> > Not sure about your question, but the plastic coated wire for a
> > backstay would scare me... Be sure to check fo
Not sure about your question, but the plastic coated wire for a backstay
would scare me... Be sure to check for corrosion.
My 35mk2 manual states 2200psi i believe as the maximum pressure, and there
is a chart which shows what tension this equates to. HydraTech tensioner,
made in Vancouver. Mine
t; Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Shawn Wright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:12 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves
>
>
>
&
Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3"
pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a
bronze bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
We looked at a nice one before buying our 35-2. A lot of boat for the size
(but still a bit too small for us), but it seemed a bit under-built in a
few areas like transom and rigging. They sail quite well, of course, being
a C design. I've seen several Newports on the hard (28 and 30) and noted
Not sure if this was mentioned here, but I saw it on the FB group, and just
registered. They will have a recording link if you're unable to view it
live. (7pm EDT)
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/marine-museum-of-the-great-lakes-at-kingston/events/rob-mazza/
--
Shawn Wright
While I don't have a tar bottom, I enjoyed this thorough account as there
are some good general tips. What is a chip brush?
Thanks
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:03 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List <
A fine looking example with some nice upgrades. I noticed the new SS mast
step, which appears to have a keel stud/nut aft of the mast. Mine is under
the mast (or so I'm told...), so does this mean that a new stud was tapped
into the keel at this point? Certainly easier to check torque in that
Interesting thread, and perhaps someday I will get to the point where I can
attend to our teak interior instead of fixing other stuff! I have done a
small amount of testing with teak oil (some marine brand I was given), but
the biggest problem I have is that someone in the past decided to apply
o that shows some good tips for West System and 1708.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSKbF6jGJKw=2009s
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 03/24/2021 10:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a
> through-h
I installed our Espar D2 as far aft as possible - up high under the aft
coaming on the starboard side. This allowed for a short exhaust outlet
(note that the standard mufflers sold with these units may not be marine
grade and leak exhaust gases as they are not fully welded; I bought a
marine grade
How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a
through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy? Some of
mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 2:35 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm impressed how well the boat tracks, and that the auto pilot seems to
>> handle it well - l
I'm impressed how well the boat tracks, and that the auto pilot seems to
handle it well - looks like a quadrant driven unit. My wheel pilot
certainly wouldn't cope in those conditions. The stern wake is impressive -
they are moving along well!
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto,
Sorry I missed it... was away from list emails for a few weeks (but finally
sorted my list delivery issues!)
Hope to join the next one, although it's the day after haulout, so I could
be busy getting ready to install lots of new toys... :)
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto,
ina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Shawn Wright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 21, 2021 12:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C Motorsailer
>
>
>
> That looks like a very comfortabl
That looks like a very comfortable boat for our BC winters. I wonder how
they sail?
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 9:24 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Nice looking boat! I
I used Six10 on my keel joint at West's recommendation. Haven't hauled yet
to see how it has held up, but it seemed to work well enough. A bit
difficult to work with, but I don't have much experience with epoxy. I use
it without the mixing nozzles for small jobs, including some holes in the
deck,
Sounds like a good plan, but I might consider plumbing it with tees and
valves so the secondary filter could become primary in case it still clogs
at a bad time.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Thu, Feb 4, 2021 at 6:01 AM
I see you're also in the PNW, so I would say the decision should be based
on how much cold weather sailing you do, and how much of that is motoring.
We do very little motoring, and are usually not too concerned about warming
the cabin when we are underway, so it doesn't make sense for us. The
I like the Davis instruments; they are well made and long lasting, which is
a rarity these days. I had an old spare unit installed at home for a while
but decided to sell it, as there are enough local stations near me that I
don't need it. When I was working, we hosted one of the local stations
Not sure how the mk1 bilge compares, but my mk2 has two auto bilge pumps in
addition to the manual. Last winter I re worked everything as follows:
1. Manual whale gusher below engine panel in cockpit, hose led to just
aft of aft-most keel stud.
2. Rule 500gph pump between keel stud #2 & 3 (from
I like this trick; I did the opposite when drilling for new midship cleats,
and the over drilled hole is just barely hidden. I will try this method
next time, at least where clearance below allows for it.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the genoa
(which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer track. I
am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the foot length of
the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual sail on the boat?
On my 35-2, heavy rain blowing against the hatchboards has caused a bit of
water to leak at the corner joints at the bottom edge, where the U channel
pieces are joined. I have left a sheet of plastic covering the hatch for
the winter storm season until I can re-seal things to prevent any damage.
Agreed, I don't find it necessary. I have a nice Harken ratchet block that
was given to me, but never bothered to install it, as I just tail the
furling line by hand, sometimes with a bend on a spare winch if it's
breezy, and it works fine. I was waiting to get a second ratchet for the
other
There are some issues with delivery, as checking the archives shows that I
have received only a fraction of recent messages.
I also received a delivery probe failure from another list (which uses
Listserv) that I am on, so the issue may be wider spread.
Happy Holidays everyone!
⛵
On Thu, Dec
Last msg I saw was yesterday re: America's cup. Nothing in spam.
On Wed, Dec 23, 2020, 14:32 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Check your spam folder. I have found many emails from the list there.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard
A common method around here is to use 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe across the boom,
pulled down to the toerail with lines to create a curved surface for a tarp
or canvas to lay over. The nicer ones will have channels sewn into the
fabric to insert the tubing. Very light, cheap, and reasonable easy to
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