from:"Russ Melody"

Re: Stus-List Testing DSC

2016-01-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Bob,

the simple function is just like any ol' radio, after it's hooked up, 
just press play and talk.


All the fancy stuff needs programming/key functions to screw it up. I 
haven't configured my SH yet, too busy. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:04 PM 14/01/2016, you wrote:

Today I received my first grown-up radio, a Standard Horizon GX2200.
DSC looks like a very nice technology but I am wondering how to 
test/learn it without triggering a bunch of false alarms or general chaos.
I'm docked in a backwater, but there is occasional barge traffic 
that probably has AIS transmitters.
I'd like to verify that my new radio can easily communicate (via 
channel 70?) with the barges as they pass by.
Maybe I need to read the fine manual again but am wondering if 
anyone else has done this exercise and if there are any tips or gotchas.

Many thanks in advance,
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

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Re: Stus-List Testing DSC

2016-01-15 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi David,

thanks for the info, looks like I got some 
reading to do or I could just ask the list... :)


 I thought to the DSC function was for ringing 
me mates on 16 (ring only their radio)  and then 
we go to a working channel in the normal fashion.

So if I have DSC enabled does the radio need to be on dual watch?
Maybe this is the year I get my number and 
configure the radio but then I'll have to find some friends too. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:27 PM 14/01/2016, you wrote:

Russ,

Just by way of clarification, I think you'll 
find that Bob is asking about the DSC only 
function.Â  Channel 70 is not a voice channel.


David
(Who will have the same problem soon way over here)

On 15 January 2016 at 13:12, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Bob,

the simple function is just like any ol' radio, 
after it's hooked up, just press play and talk.


All the fancy stuff needs programming/key 
functions to screw it up. I haven't configured my SH yet, too busy. :)


Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:04 PM 14/01/2016, you wrote:

Today I received my first grown-up radio, a Standard Horizon GX2200.
DSC looks like a very nice technology but I am 
wondering how to test/learn it without 
triggering a bunch of false alarms or general chaos.
I'm docked in a backwater, but there is 
occasional barge traffic that probably has AIS transmitters.
I'd like to verify that my new radio can easily 
communicate (via channel 70?) with the barges as they pass by.
Maybe I need to read the fine manual again but 
am wondering if anyone else has done this 
exercise and if there are any tips or gotchas.

Many thanks in advance,
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

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Re: Stus-List 93 37+ for sale cheap!

2016-01-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



It looks like $80,000 CDN or $55,000 USD. This will be a good year 
for USA shoppers in Canada.


Today, if our central bank poodle cuts the bank rate by 1/4 percent 
then it will knock another 3 percent off this sale price.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island


At 05:19 AM 20/01/2016, you wrote:
1993 37+ for $55K 
CND. 
https://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1993-c-c-37-40-plus-5363618/#.Vp-H-a876rU


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Oil cooler corrosion

2016-01-21 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brian,

That amount of rusting is not bad. Follow through with your 
intentions and all will be fine.


I suggest flat black paint is appropriate for a heat exchanger.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Colony of Vancouver Island


At 04:28 PM 21/01/2016, you wrote:

While working to remove the rusty exhaust mixing tee I noticed 
significant rust on the oil cooler exterior.

I decided to remove it for inspection.
Here are some pics:
http://i.imgur.com/JRncLOQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/R9HJv2k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mboAyhP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LG1CBoV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3o8jjDm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GEEHAo0.jpg

Looks to me to be in ok shape. The exterior rust does not look too 
deep. My guess it is caused by the leaky exhaust which is just a few 
inches away.
The corrosion at the braze weld is a bit concerning, but since it is 
not also occurring at the seawater exit end it probably is also 
caused by the leaky exhaust splashing onto it, rather than 
indicating corrosion from within.
My intentions are to just do a rust removal and repaint on the 
exterior, and a removal of the corrosion on the nipples.

Any input is welcome.
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Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller

2016-01-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



It looks like your auto-correct changed rudder stock to stalk (like celery).


In Europe it is oft times used as one word, rudderstock.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:16 AM 22/01/2016, you wrote:

So based on your description if you were to 
remove the tiller handle where the single bolt 
holds it to the rudder stalk, then you would be 
able to move the stalk side to side?Â  What about fore and aft?


Based on my current understanding, it sounds 
like the bushings at the deck or hull or both 
are worn.Â  Many C&Cs simply used Acetyl (Nylon) 
tubes for the stalk to pass through.Â  Many of 
us have installed grease (zirc) fittings to 
facilitate easier maintenance.Â  A machine shop 
can easily fabricate new bushings from stock you 
provide.Â  Removing the old ones may prove 
difficult.Â  Also when the boat is out of the 
water, you want to drop the rudder to make sure 
that the shaft isn't eroded/corroded.Â  While 
you're at it make sure the shaft/stalk isn't rotating in the rudder.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 22, 2016 1:06 PM, "Ryan Doyle via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Josh,

Thanks very much.Â  My apologies.. I should have 
been clearer in my description of the 
issue.Â  The play is certainly not in the 
attachment of the wood tiller to the metal 
plates or the stock head (option 1 or 2).Â  That 
would have been too easy.Â  It is below that in 
what I think is (4) the deck bushing.Â


Thanks again in advance for the help.

Ryan


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2016 13:37:37 -0500
From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject:Â Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller
Message-ID:
Â  Â 
<CA+zaCRB4Nd6W+a2hJcYg6FRs6W+LmnU97kKp=r1nqfe6sef...@mail.gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Not real clear where the play is.Â  It looks like there are at least 4
interfaces which need checked to determine the feasibility of reducing the
play.

1 - Wood to metal plates transition on the tiller.

2 - Â Metal plates on tiller to rudder stock head (square).

3 - Rudder stock head (square) to rudder stock (round) .

4 - Rudder stock (round) moving side to side (port/stbd) in the deck
bushing.

Let us know where the play is being experienced and I'm sure someone will
have answers.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List The Big Storm

2016-01-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Thanks for the concern Stu.

We're okay out west. The rain stopped a couple of days ago and the 
forecast for racing today is 10 - 15 S/E with a high of 50 F.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet35 mk-1
east side o' Vancouver Island


At 06:28 AM 24/01/2016, you wrote:

Hopefully everyone survived the BIG STORM.

Stu



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Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

2016-01-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Yeah, but they're not the ones crawling around an 
engine looking for leaks. It's good that they 
have the info though, so they can direct the guy on what needs to be done.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1
Neanderthal skipper


At 08:40 AM 30/01/2016, you wrote:
Mike  there are actually at least a couple of 
women on the list, as well FYI   :^)


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 30, 2016, at 6:19 AM, Headgorilla via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Good Morning Men...


Mike
Skywalker 1978 34"
Southold, NY


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Re: Stus-List Old C&C factories on Google Street View

2016-02-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Good one Bill.

Like the forest industry gam at an ecological convention, "Ya can 
make anything outta wood except a profit."


or, when the farmer was asked what he will do with his lottery win, 
"I guess I can keep farming, until it's gone."


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
taking tomorrow off and doing some boat puttering




At 04:34 PM 01/02/2016, you wrote:


The saying goes,

 If you want to make a small fortune, take a large fortune and 
start a boat Shop.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA




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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Steve,
Check the specs:
http://dickinsonmarine.com/product/newport-diesel-heater/
http://www.eberspaecher-na.com/fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_Kanada/pdf/Airtronic_D2-D4-D5_Spec_sheet.pdf

The Newport heater is up to the task, low setting
is at D2 high and high setting is 10 percent over the D4 high.

I believe the Espar D2 will be adequate for
Georgian Bay cruising up to end of September.

High heat output is good to get the cabin quickly
up to temperature from cold. If you're running
the heater all night then smaller is better (less cycling).

Comparison of the two styles is not as easy.
Dickenson Newport:
Pros: no power required, no reset problems on
"fail to start too many times", visible flame
(fireplace ambience), warming plate for a pot o'
whatever (may require an mod), steady radiant heat
Cons: higher heat on low may require cracking a
hatch open to control cabin temp unless the
Admiral & parrot don't like 80 degF, needs a
circulating fan for quicker cabin warm-up, dial 'twiddling' for temp control

Espar:
Pros: thermostat control, better heater output ranges, good air distribution
Cons: higher installed cost, needs battery support, more noise,

I have a Dickensen heater with the pressure
kerosene burner (forget what model it is) approx.
9000 BU, mounted low near the mast base. It is
good for cruising west coast up to end of
October. For winter cruising I use a portable
propane (Heater Buddy?) to get the cabin up to
temperature in the morning because I shutdown the
heater at night... which I would not do if running a Newport style burner.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 11:41 AM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Hi All,

I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto
units. Is anyone running one on a 32? There's a
good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet
of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(

My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the
season, not living aboard in the winter. The
boat is two hours away so there will be
"maintenance" trips in the spring and fall which
means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up there.Â

I have to keep the temps warm for the boat
parrot who'll be living aboard with us while we
cruise. We're planning three weeks in August
this year so it shouldn't be too much of an
issue but it gets cold up there at night, even
in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold
summer nights but I have ideas about maybe
cruising the North Channel when the fall colours
are out. I don't want to limit myself. At the
same time, I don't want to spend money that could go elsewhere.Â

The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters
are pretty but I hear they don't make quite
enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost,
but don't want to be disappointed. Everyone says
the Espar and Webastos are best.Â

I'de be doing the installation myself in any
case so am eager to hear from others who have gone through it.Â

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-05 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the 
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.


The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead 
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output 
on low settings, not to be overlooked. The 
Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.


Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank 
location with proper venting is the same for 
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The 
tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and 
if elevation is such that gravity feed is not 
going to work for the bulkhead heater then you 
get a little impulse pump similar to what the 
Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in 
the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and 
easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything 
outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon 
tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day 
use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.


On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for 
retirement cruising I will have both types of 
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport 
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid 
fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my 
favourite things. But the only units worth 
getting are expensive wood stove types, which 
are super nice, but I can't justify the expense 
and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is 
appealing because it's out of the way. The 
problem for me with the diesel newport is the 
fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I 
really like about my boat is that it doesn't 
smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater 
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere 
inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, 
maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about 
the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about 
them is good however and to your point, maybe 
more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's 
still an option, will my boat smell like diesel?Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use 
a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6 
hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat. 
It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine evening.Â


Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RIÂ
USA 02840

+401 965Â 5260


On Feb 5, 2016, at 17:29, William Walker via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Steve,
Â  I have an esparÂ  installed by po, no 
problems in five years.Â  But, does have 
significant current draw at start up.Â  I need 
to start engine to fire up unless on shore 
power.Â  After it gets going no 
problem.Â  Outlet in main cabin, v berthÂ  and head.Â

Bill Walker
Pentwater Mi
CnCÂ  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



--
On Friday, February 5, 2016 Stevan Plavsa via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi All,

I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto 
units. Is anyone running one on a 32? There's a 
good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. 
The literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 
feet of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(


My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the 
season, not living aboard in the winter. The 
boat is two hours away so there will be 
"maintenance" trips in the spring and fall 
which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up there.Â


I have to keep the temps warm for the boat 
parrot who'll be living aboard with us while we 
cruise. We're planning three weeks in August 
this year so it shouldn't be too much of an 
issue but it gets cold up there at night, even 
in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for 
cold summer nights but I have ideas about maybe 
cruising the North Channel when the fall 
colours are out. I don't want to limit myself. 
At the same time, I don't want to spend money that could go elsewhere.Â


The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters 
are pretty but I hear they don't make quite 
enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, 
but don't want to be disappointed. Everyone 
says the Espar and Webastos are best.Â


I'de be doing the installation myself in any 
case so am eager to hear from others who have gone through it.Â


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Hi Steve,

1. - no, it does not preclude install in that
space (up high please) . your gas tank is vented
outside or you will smell fumes regularly (I know
this from a weeping leak when I had the A4).
Note: you may need to up-size ventilation for the
space for the times the heater is on while you are running the bilge blower.

2. - 4 or 5 gallons will be plenty to account for your intended use.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 09:45 AM 06/02/2016, you wrote:
I'm reading the
<http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>marine
installation manual and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the
combustion air must not allow exhaust fumes or
flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a
gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does
this preclude me from installing one of these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank?
I'de like something small that I can top off
from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place
in the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are
others using if using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa
<<mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside
the cabin (somewhere behind the bulkhead I would
imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With
the espar/webasto, it's in the engine
compartment. Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:

<http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg>http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the
mast. Port side isn't optimal either. Now that
I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the
venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.Â

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
location with proper venting is the same for
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak.
The tank can be almost anywhere for either unit
and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then
you get a little impulse pump similar to what
the Espar uses. I would see about putting the
tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high
enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep
everything outside. Either heater would like a 2
- 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1
gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
retirement cruising I will have both types of
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Vancouver Island

At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
favourite things. But the only units worth
getting are expensive wood stove types, which
are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
appealing because it's out of the way. The
problem for me with the diesel newport is the
fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
really like about my boat is that it doesn't
smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned
about the diesel smell. Most of what I've read
about them is good however and to your point,
maybe more heat than the D2, less money for
sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like diesel?Ã

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I
use a propane tent heater the warms the cabin
for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry
heat. It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry
the inside on a foggy Maine evening.Ã

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RIÃ
USA 02840
+401 965Ã 5260

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

2016-02-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Why don't you start a discussion about replacing
the A4 with something safer, like a diesel? :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island
Gone sailing but couldn't resist that one!

At 06:56 AM 07/02/2016, you wrote:
Ok, so it looks like I shouldn't be installing
one of these in the engine compartment of my gasoline powered boat:

Warning - Explosion HazardÂ
1. Heater must be turned off while re-fueling.Â
2. Do not install heater in enclosed areas where
combustible fumes may be present.Â

3. Do not install heaters in engine compartments of gasoline powered boats.

Boo.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 6:43 AM, Ken Heaton via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I've never needed to start the engine to get the
Espar to start.Â It has always started and run fine off the batteries.

Ken H.

On 6 February 2016 at 14:52, Graham Collins via
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided
the end of the hose is clear of any fumes you
are good to go.Â You could connect that through
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced
piece of mind.Â If you have flammable vapor in
your main cabin then all bets are off...

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go
through a gallon or two while working on the
boat in the winter.Â So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup
draw, I run mine off batteries all the time and have never had an issue.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I'm reading the
<http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>marine
installation manual and have some questions:

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa
<<mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside
the cabin (somewhere behind the bulkhead I
would imagine, hanging locker on my boat
likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the
engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
is pretty much how i have to mount it:

<http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg>http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>On Fri, Feb 5,
2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat
output on low settings, not to be overlooked.
The Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
location with proper venting is the same for
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak.
The tank can be almost anywhere for either unit
and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then
you get a little impulse pump similar to what
the Espar uses. I would see about putting the
tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high
enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep
everything outside. Either heater would like a
2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to
1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
retirement cruising I will have both types of
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35 mk-1
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Vancouver Island

At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of
solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one
of my favourite things. But the o

Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp vs Kiwi

2016-02-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I have a Kiwi-prop, installed 2008 when I changed 
out the A4 to an old Yanmar QM20. I like it.


Chosen in part because I could swing the largest 
diameter due to the way blades are mounted. Tip 
clearance took advantage of the way the buttock 
lines sweep up a lot in the area. A few extra 
inches in (new) shaft length and I got a 17" prop down there. :)


The thing is a beast in reverse because it goes 
full pitch (no adjustable stops) so I typically 
just go a few boats lengths at most and pop into 
neutral if I have to travel further back.
Great customer support if dealing with John in 
New Zealand. I suggest going direct and giving a 
pass on the Canadian distributor if you choose a Kiwi-prop.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 -1
Vancouver Island

At 09:46 AM 08/02/2016, you wrote:
Have you considered Kiwi prop? I donât have 
the first hand experience, but the tests suggest 
that it is in the middle of the pack for prop 
walk and reverse pull and it is, usually, 
substantially cheaper than the Gori or Max-Prop.


And, as usual, the best is to check the actual 
test results, e.g. here: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807. 
Please be aware that the original test was done 
in 2009, though I am not sure if much has 
changed since. The same test is available as a 
PDF from Flexofold web site (here: 
http://www.flexofold.com/test-results/). 
I guess they liked what they saw there.


Marek

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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

2016-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Dwight's content should not be missed.
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind 
speed & angle and maybe even include time to 
destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".


For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail 
getting buried" is the tell-tale. If she can't be 
put back on 'er feet by dropping the traveller, 
flattening the main or easing the vang & sheet to 
twist off the head, changing course a bit, 
getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to reef.


Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for any 
size of our boats, they are not initially tender 
so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur ear".


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:
One season I started early and just left the 
main reefedÂ even when I packed up at the end of 
a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. 
Anyway with Alianna I now prefer full main and 
furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine 
works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead 
points. If that's still too much for comfort the 
genoa gets rolled up all the way andÂ just full 
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of 
sail you can carry is a function of weight on 
the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had 
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her 
with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I 
am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes.Â




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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

2016-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Rick,

Thanks for backing me up on this.

It's a good thread and we got enough information 
to conclude there is no simple "time to reef" and 
there is a pile of good tricks to forestall tucking in a reef.


Sometimes, the best time to reef is as you 
express with using angle of heel as the indicator 
to gain the best speed and comfort. However, 
there are times on the race course, with the 45', 
where I will not call for a reef if the windward 
mark can be seen. It is often quicker to carry 
on, with a crew of  6 - 9 and recalling the statement,
"The chance for mistakes is about equal to the 
number of crew squared."  -  Ted Turner


And I hope my point was not interpreted by anyone 
as: "reef when the toe-rail in in the water".
That is not the same as: "if your toe-rail is in 
then water, it's time to reef."


"Any fool can carry on, but a wise man knows how 
to shorten sail in time." -  Joseph Conrad


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island




At 01:39 PM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D1667D.14003C80"
Content-Language: en-us

toe rail getting buried might not be the best indicator.

To bury the toe rail on my 38 takes over 33 
degrees of heel. And the boat is at its best 
with 18 to 20. 25 degrees of heel still leaves 
the toe rail about a foot out of the water.


Now my 25 is different. There is less free board 
so 25 degrees of heal puts the toe rail just 
about in the water. But the boat is still faster 
and more comfortable with only about 20 degrees on her.


If I am in a hurry, when I get to about 15 
degrees of heel, and presuming there are no 
white faces and white knuckles among the guests, 
I will start doing the other things you suggest: 
dropping the traveler, flattening the main or 
easing the vang & sheet to twist off the head, 
changing course a bit, etc. If that doesnt cut 
it, it is time to reef. And white faces and 
white knuckles mean reefing even earlier.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2


Dwight's content should not be missed.
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind 
speed & angle and maybe even include time to 
destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".


For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail 
getting buried" is the tell-tale. If she can't 
be put back on 'er feet by dropping the 
traveller, flattening the main or easing the 
vang & sheet to twist off the head, changing 
course a bit, getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to reef.


Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for 
any size of our boats, they are not initially 
tender so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur ear".


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

One season I started early and just left the 
main reefedÂ even when I packed up at the end of 
a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. 
Anyway with Alianna I now prefer full main and 
furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine 
works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead 
points. If that's still too much for comfort the 
genoa gets rolled up all the way andÂ just full 
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of 
sail you can carry is a function of weight on 
the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had 
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her 
with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I 
am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes.Â




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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

2016-02-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


So right on the tonnage.

Net tonnage is the cargo carrying capacity of wine casks in the old 
days. The good old days, a couple o' hundred years ago. :)
So, it means you can go cruising with 1800 gallons of wine and not 
much else. Nothing wrong with that eh.


Gross tonnage includes machinery, crew and galley spaces.

cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 06:18 PM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

When last documented (it expired in March 1993) it was named 
Stardust, and owned by Teresa J Barbero. The hail port was New York 
City. And the previous owner was Joseph A Besso. 9 tonnes is the net 
capacity (it is a function of volume, not weight). 11 is the gross tonnage.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
USCG 664669
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Under 5 tonnes net so can't be documented
Washington, NC


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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

2016-02-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brad,

When you race in one of these, do you need to keep one hand tied 
behind your back or can you let it just hang at your side?


Inquiring minds want to know. :)

Happy V D to all.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island, bounded by the Salish Sea, Johnstone 
Strait & North Pacific Ocean



At 02:52 PM 14/02/2016, you wrote:
Was out last fall for the Lower Lake Huron Single Handed, on our new 
to us 33-2, my first single handed. Headed out with the 155 on the 
furler, realized before start that it was WAY too much so set about 
changing to #3, quite a "Charlie Foxtrot". Was 20 min late to the 
start. Should have thrown a reef in as well as i saw 28 knots true 
wind. Lesson learned!  Saw boat speeds of 10.8 on GPS. Would reef 
between 18 and 20 depending on passengers/crew.

Brad
Pulse 1985 C&C 33 MkII
[]
[]

I'd rather be sailing
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Re: Stus-List Fuel

2016-02-16 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Al,

3 litres an hour will include a safety factor. Normal use estimate on 
my 35 @ 12,000ish pounds is 2 litres an hour.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:37 PM 16/02/2016, you wrote:
Does anyone have a round number for fuel usage in a 37+? Mine has a 
Yanmar  3JH2E with a three blade Maxprop, pitch unknown. I need to 
move the boat to its new home and I have no idea how much fuel it 
will use. I don't want to just fill it up as I'm planning on some 
tank cleaning in the near future. An approximation will do as I will 
then add a safety factor.


Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37+


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Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

2016-02-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Wow. The Mustang auto-inflate @ 130USD.  And 
aren't these the guys who invented the things for small vessel use?


http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feb_2016_W&utm_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92&utm_source=newsletter&utm_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 07:57 AM 19/02/2016, you wrote:

Donât know if mustangs interest anyone ,
But they are on sale in Canada , Iâm sure USD makes them a better deal)



Tim Sippel
C&C 33mkii
 Matico
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:20 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

I have both West and Spinlock harnesses on my 
boat. IMHO the Spinlock is much better and 
certainly is more comfortable. The West Marine 
version is still way better than none if you 
want to save some cash. I bought the cheap one 
and then my lovely wife got me a Spinlock for Christmas J J

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

Just a note about the Spinlock harness, which 
most offshore sailors think is the best harness 
going: I have spoken to the company reps and the 
reason it's not CG certified is that the process 
is so long and expensive that it isn't worth their while.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:48 AM, jhnelson via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for 
sanctioned offshore race it would need to be 
modified to have leg straps.  Otherwise it is 
very similar to mine and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal.




Sent from my Samsung device


 Original message 
From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 2016-02-19 10:11 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Subject: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness


West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness 
on sale today only for 150 bucks. (U.S.)


I have no experience with the product, but I 
just paid more than twice that much for a 
Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified.


Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260





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From: The Binnacle Marine store 
To: Tim Sippel 
Subject

Re: Stus-List New sail for the roller furler?

2016-02-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hey Capt',

Do have any non-conforming liveaboards or moored 
boats with a lapse in insurance requirements? 
Those owners good be your best source of a good deal, if ya know what I mean.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

"No sir, I don't live here. I'm staying aboard the boat just now."  :)


At 11:31 AM 20/02/2016, you wrote:

I'm shopping for a new head sail %135 with foam.Â
I also need a furler.Â
Being a Manager / Harbor Master, Â any idea or wisdom on what to buy?
I need a good deal.

Â
Thanks
--

Capt, Curtis McDaniel

Dataw Island Marina

Harbor Master

470-313-0918

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Re: Stus-List New sail for the roller furler?

2016-02-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Curtis,

the name of the loft was in Fred's message.

here they are: http://www.leitchandmcbride.com/

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island



At 07:34 PM 20/02/2016, you wrote:

So maybe if I buy sail and furler from same shop 
I may cam get a deal I need the name of the shop. Thanx
On Feb 20, 2016 8:43 PM, "Peter Fell via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Yup.
Â
Sails are made locally or in a US-based loft ... not offshore.
Â
Furlex dealer too if Iâm not mistaken.
Â
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 4:27 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List New sail for the roller furler?
Â
Very good loft.
Â
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
Â
On 20 February 2016 at 15:59, Fred Hazzard via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Leitch & McBride.Â  250 656 0751

Â


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Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

2016-02-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Bill,

Mustang did the MAC deflatable wings in 1988 with a retail version in 1997.

I still have my "floater coat" from the mid-70s. 
The high end unit with a "beavertail" to delay 
the onset of hypothermia, developed in 
conjunction with a research team at University of Victoria.


Check out the timeline. Especially 1968, 1977 (my 
coat) and 1983, pretty interesting eh:

http://www.mustangsurvival.com/about-mustang/mustang-timeline?country=23


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:56 AM 22/02/2016, you wrote:

I thought Sospenders came up with these first, 
but maybe they were just the first in the USA.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness


Wow. The Mustang auto-inflate @ 130USD.  And 
aren't these the guys who invented the things for small vessel use?


<http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feb_2016_W&utm_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92&utm_source=newsletter&utm_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST>http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feb_2016_W&utm_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92&utm_source=newsletter&utm_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST

 Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 07:57 AM 19/02/2016, you wrote:

DonÃ¢t know if if mustangs interest anyone ,
But they are on sale in Canada , IÃ¢m sure USD SD makes them a better deal)



Tim Sippel
C&C 33mkii
 Matico
From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:20 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

I have both West and Spinlock harnesses on my 
boat. IMHO the Spinlock is much better and 
certainly is more comfortable. The West Marine 
version is still way better than none if you 
want to save some cash. I bought the cheap one 
and then my lovely wife got me a Spinlock for Christmas J J

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [ 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 10:16 AM
To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

Just a note about the Spinlock harness, which 
most offshore sailors think is the best harness 
going: I have spoken to the company reps and the 
reason it's not CG certified is that the process 
is so long and expensive that it isn't worth their while.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:48 AM, jhnelson via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for 
sanctioned offshore race it would need to be 
modified to have leg straps.  Otherwise it is 
very similar to mine and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal.


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Re: Stus-List radar mast/pole on C&C 32

2016-02-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Jim,

I might be doing a pole mount this year too.

Can you double check the pole diameter? It looks to maybe scale as a 
2" comparing to nearby stanchion in the pics.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:41 PM 23/02/2016, you wrote:
I built a pole mount on our 35-3 that is pretty simple. I got the 
stainless plate sheared to size and had it welded onto the pole. 
It's all handrail fittings and 1" SS tube. I made the tube clamp 
from some 1" black Starboard scraps, bought a Seadog anchor stopper 
for the base. Including the radar, I spent less than $700. I added 
another brace to the coaming after I took these pix just for a 
little more stability.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eZodRniJGz0/VZcvHSR3VpI/DNw/wXPsxk5waLI/s720-Ic42/pole.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FF5A-_Ahhco/VZc7HaE1ZLI/DOA/rQPkzOM__Dg/s720-Ic42/base.jpg

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

2016-02-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



In a re-fit many years ago I looked for replacement thru-hulls.

After not having success finding a replacement I 
got a NPT cutter head for a 'Rigid' pipe 
threading machine, from the local rental shop. 
You can adjust the "bite" of the cutter so I 
started off loose and cut some taper threads by 
hand. With the replacement ball valve nearby I 
kept at it until there was the desired fit. After 
the first one the rest were easy.


So, now my C&C original thru-hulls, which were in good shape, are taper thread.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 08:33 PM 26/02/2016, you wrote:
I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded 
ball valves is a difficult task. For example, 
every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).



From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Joe;

The bad news is I donât believe that anyone 
makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic 
C&Cs anymore. All the ones I have seen are a 
smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls.


The good news is that you rarely need to replace 
a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the 
thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the 
Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to 
hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
while you remove the old valve from the threads 
of the existing thru hull from inside the hull. 
(you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, 
but it is called a plumberâs step wrench or something similar)


Both my boats came with brass gate valves on 
most of the thru hulls, instead of proper 
seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I 
launched into replacing the gate valves, 
starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up 
both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and 
had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull 
to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull.


I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a 
chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly  
a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with 
lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Donât 
you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
And the guy at the chandlery explained how you 
are supposed to get the old valve off the thru 
hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I 
bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.


BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. 
And the seacocks should be either bronze or 
Marlon. You donât want to use brass if you are 
in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with 
straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of 
my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing 
plates with a nut, so I did not have to use 
seacocks with a flange on them. But I have 
learned that ball valves intended for plumbing 
come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure 
I ordered ball valves with straight threads that 
matched the threads on the thru hull.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC





From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

Try here:

http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

The company is near us.

Joel

On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at 
Zialater via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
1975 30 MK1.

They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
non-original thru hull fit.

Thanks for any ideas on this.

Joe

Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
Annapolis



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--
Joel
301 541 8551


--
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12 -> subject change n message trim

2016-03-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Paul, Edd & Ryan,

Please review recent message from Stu. Actually, it's more of a plea from Stu.

For this reply I trimmed about 10 pages of 
unnecessary content and bolded, below, the relevant point(s).


Not trying to be a dick-head about this but 
viewed form Stu's perspective, it diminishes the 
usefulness of his list and he pays a lot more in bit fees (bandwidth).


Regards, Russ


At 01:09 PM 02/03/2016, you wrote:
Thanks Gary.Â  Just found out from the previous 
owner it's a West Marine Ablative, but he can't remember specifically which.


On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 12:00 PM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
Â  Â  Â  Â  cnc-list@cnc-list.com


When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

Â  Â 1. Re:Â  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Gary Nylander)
Â  Â 2. Re:Â  Gori 2 Blade Re-fit (John Irvin)
Â  Â 3. Re:Â  Rudder crack C&C 25 (Peter Fell)
Â  Â 4. Re:Â  Faria Depth Finders (Ryan Doyle)
Â  Â 5. Re:Â  FM antenna? (Michael Brown)
Â  Â 6. Re:Â  Faria Depth Finders (Della Barba, Joe)
Â  Â 7. Re:Â  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
Â  Â 8.Â  Bilge hose (Bradley Lumgair)
Â  Â 9. Re:Â  Bilge hose (Joel Aronson)
Â  10. Re:Â  Rudder crack C&C 25 (Marek Dziedzic)
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Re: Stus-List Shaft pitting

2016-03-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brian,

This pitting is not unusual for stainless steel that has spent time 
in a low oxygen environment. The water in there is stagnate, oxygen 
depletes, a galvanic cell develops and viola. The process is the 
pits, so to speak.


The remedy is pretty much as you did, clean up the shaft best as 
possible. To my eye that amount of pitting is not going to affect reliability.


To avoid future pitting don't leave the shaft in one position during 
long periods of immersion. Run the engine a little while in gear or 
at least turn the shaft by hand a bit during your regular checks when 
you're not using the boat.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:15 PM 04/03/2016, you wrote:

I cleaned up the prop shaft. Then took 600 grit sandpaper then 400 
grit sandpaper to it. There is some pitting on the shaft that rides 
in the bearing. Attached is a link to my blog that has a pic. Is 
this an issue? Do I need to replace the shaft or have these pits filled?

Content-Type: image/jpeg; name=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename=".facebook_1457129540635.jpg"
X-Attachment-Id: 1527911260592537600-local0

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Re: Stus-List Low Viscosity Epoxy

2016-03-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Sam,

The penetrating epoxy is kinda volatile so you might have difficulty 
with a US firm shipping across the border.


The two Canadian Manufacturers I like to deal with are Systems 3 and 
Industrial Formulators. They both started out in Lower Mainland area, B.C.


My last purchase was System Three (regular epoxy as barrier coat 
under Inter 2000)  'cause they were cheaper :)

https://systemthree.com/collections/rot-repair

Did I mention I also have a wooden boat?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet,  35 mk-1
Salerosa, Atkins - Margery Daw - 40'

At 09:45 AM 10/03/2016, you wrote:
Where do you guys get the very low viscosity resin that soaks into 
wood end grain?

Thanks
sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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Re: Stus-List Please!!!!!!!!

2016-03-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Here's a reminder of the plea from Stu.

At least we got through a couple of dozen issue... :)

Cheers, Russ

At 09:51 AM 01/03/2016, you wrote:
Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List 
Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some 
subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that 
subject line instead of reading them.


So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!

Stu




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Re: Stus-List no more classifieds?

2016-03-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Ted,

Since I'm in the "Stu section" of archive, ' thought this might be 
helpful. Current info, it was sent out just a few week ago.


Cheers, Russ

At 06:12 AM 06/03/2016, you wrote:

Sean

I removed the Classified Ads from the Photo Album for lack of 
interest, software problems and huge costs related to upgrading.


If you have something for sale, just send an email to the list 
detailing your items.


Stu




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Re: Stus-List - thanks

2016-03-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Whoa, I'm a month out already.

Jeez. I need more days off. :)

Cheers, Russ

At 09:34 AM 11/03/2016, you wrote:

Yes, Stu actually just confirmed that about 4 days ago.




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Re: Stus-List C&C 26 and 35 parts

2016-03-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Guys,

I think the 35 is a mk III. The keel sure ain't a mk-1 and I think 
the companionway traveller disqualifies it as a mk-2.


Oh, and thanks for the notice Mark.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:55 PM 11/03/2016, you wrote:

C&C 35 parts...
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/5485675266.html
(I believe it's this guy 
http://www.massmarineparts.com/index.aspx 
)

C&C 26 parts...
http://providence.craigslist.org/bpo/5449947232.html
No affiliation to either one, I'm just local and saw the ads.
Mark
'73 C&C 25 Mk 1
Mattapoisett, MA
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Re: Stus-List winch grease

2016-03-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Dwight

As you know the tooth brush is a handy tool, but do you know the 
tooth brush was invented in Cumberland, a coal mining community on 
Vancouver Island?


Yeah, if it was invented anywhere else it would have been called the 
teeth brush  ba boom!


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
East side o'  Vancouver Island


At 08:46 AM 13/03/2016, you wrote:
  After getting them apart I cleaned everything up with a soft 
tooth brush and varsol, rinsed and wiped dry, for the plastic 
rollers it says on the grease label to use pawl oil on the rollers, 
not the grease. So I followed the instructions and so far no issues


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it

2016-03-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Change the subject line in your emails --   "Stus-List CnC-List 
Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"  does not mean a dxxn thing.  Some 
subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that 
subject line instead of reading them.


So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!

Stu


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Re: Stus-List Wow, Digest guys just don't get it (Russ & Melody)

2016-03-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Brian,

No offense or affront taken.

Not trying to be a list nag, I just took it upon 
myself to act on behalf of Stu.  I simply resent 
his message as a small effort in trying to save 
him some grief while he's attending to our dear 
Gladys. (see message a couple o' days ago)


I did think the subject line was a nice touch   :)   

Don't worry, be happy.
Cheers, Russ

At 09:22 AM 17/03/2016, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:

Guilty as charged, again.
My sincere apologies. Sorry to offend anyone for 
my shortcomings. I am trying my best, but after 
a long day wrestling with a Max prop I did 
manage to get my return email address changed, 
put a signature line in the bottom, and delete 
the threads that didn't apply. I missed the Subject line.

So yeah, Wow. It wasn't meant as a personal affront to anyone.

Â
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:16:47 -0700


Change the subject line in your emails --Â  Â "Stus-List CnC-List
Digest, Vol 122, Issue 2"Â  does not mean a dxxn thing.Â  Some
subscribers have indicated that they just delete messages with that
subject line instead of reading them.

So, if you want your message read, CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE!!!

Stu

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Re: Stus-List Docks are in!

2016-03-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Good news indeed.

We got the water on again at all the floats at the beginning of 
March. It usually gets done in the middle of March.
I suspect there will be a lot of boat washing activity this weekend 
at the Club.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Wet Coast, Canada

At 09:33 AM 18/03/2016, you wrote:

Dropped by my club today at noon and my finger pier is now in and 
waiting for me!  This is over one full month ahead of last year


Guess I had better get busy

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool

2016-03-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Good point Bill.

Does your CO2 bottle have a "welding head" on it?
I suspect you were being tongue-in-cheek but it gets us thinking...
Does the CO2 fire extinguisher have a dip tube for liquid 
expectorant? Would a horn on a beer system CO2 (welding head) bottle 
valve work in a pinch?, say to a nod to multi-purpose.


I too brew beer and have a couple of small CO2 bottles and some corny 
kegs to purpose for cruising. Mmm.


As for fire blankets, it's good that the Admiral is a natural fibre 
snob. Cotton & wool are excellent choices for fire blankets and 
duvets. They smoulder, not flash up like synthetics, so toss the 
blankie on it and follow with the nearest water jug, beer, wine, 
whatever and you have a good story with a plus, if you're not putting 
out fires they're warmer if it's damp out (like 7 months on the Wet 
Coast) when used for the principal purpose.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:34 PM 19/03/2016, you wrote:
Viola - Joe just gave me a reason to leave my CO2 bottle on the boat 
- 3 reasons.  1st, (what I got it for ) to blow a big ship horn, 
2nd, to push my favorite craft beer , ( I may have to get a large 
cooler ), and 3rd, put out fires!




Bill Coleman


 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Date: 3/19/2016 4:26 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

CO2 and halon are very nice ways to put out a fire without 
destroying the interior.


CO2 extinguishers tend to be fairly big and halon is expensive now.





Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com



Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool

2016-03-21 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Bill,

Sounds like the same set-up on your CO2 bottle that our local guys 
call "the welding head". Be careful with using it unregulated on the 
ship's horn as I suspect it's air supply was spec'd at the 100 to 150 
PSI range. As you probably know a CO2 bottle can be 400 PSI in normal 
summer temperatures.


Maybe try the ship's horn with a propane bottle. It's a closer 
pressure, in the 150 PSI range, and that will really get the safety 
bears spitting when you tell them what you're up to. :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:33 AM 21/03/2016, you wrote:

Content-type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="=_NextPart_000_18C9_01D1834C.5C370D80"
Content-language: en-us

Not sure what you mean by 'Welding Head', but it has a high volume 
regulator, the typical regulator that would handle welding gasses or 
pushing beer did not have the volume to handle a ships horn.  No dip 
tube,  but I suspect that If I turned it upside down it may come out 
liquid, I have never experimented with that. It certainly comes out 
with some force.
And boy, you are right about Wool rugs, I threw one on a bonfire 
years ago, and neither blaze nor lacquer thinner would make that thing burn.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2016 7:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets, beer & wool

Good point Bill.

Does your CO2 bottle have a "welding head" on it?
I suspect you were being tongue-in-cheek but it gets us thinking...
Does the CO2 fire extinguisher have a dip tube for liquid 
expectorant? Would a horn on a beer system CO2 (welding head) bottle 
valve work in a pinch?, say to a nod to multi-purpose.


I too brew beer and have a couple of small CO2 bottles and some 
corny kegs to purpose for cruising. Mmm.


As for fire blankets, it's good that the Admiral is a natural fibre 
snob. Cotton & wool are excellent choices for fire blankets and 
duvets. They smoulder, not flash up like synthetics, so toss the 
blankie on it and follow with the nearest water jug, beer, wine, 
whatever and you have a good story with a plus, if you're not 
putting out fires they're warmer if it's damp out (like 7 months on 
the Wet Coast) when used for the principal purpose.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:34 PM 19/03/2016, you wrote:

Viola - Joe just gave me a reason to leave my CO2 bottle on the boat 
- 3 reasons.  1st, (what I got it for ) to blow a big ship horn, 
2nd, to push my favorite craft beer , ( I may have to get a large 
cooler ), and 3rd, put out fires!




Bill Coleman


 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Date: 3/19/2016 4:26 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

CO2 and halon are very nice ways to put out a fire without 
destroying the interior.


CO2 extinguishers tend to be fairly big and halon is expensive now.





Joe Della Barba

<mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>j...@dellabarba.com



Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

2016-03-28 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Danny,

This is very good advice from Andy.

It is what I was going to say. :)
I have slept a hundred peaceful nights (or more) 
secured, with the original CQR. Check the name 
again, cqr, secured. No coincidence.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:58 PM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
Danny, I think the CQR will suffice nicely. Get 
another anchor when you think you'll need it.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 4:31 PM, Danny Haughey 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello all,
Â
Speaking of anchors, Â I bought a 33lb Rocna for 
my Viking 33 and never even deployed it.Â  I 
kept the anchor and it is sitting in my 
shed.Â  Rocna recommends a 44lb anchor for the 
new boat.Â  The new boat came with a Genuine, Made in Scotland CQR.

Â
I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the 
new boat as it is not rated for it.Â  I thought 
about using for a lunch hook but, that doesn't 
make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, 
taking the convenience factor out of a lunch hook.

Â
I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...Â  Sell 
it and use the proceeds for the larger 
Rocna?Â  Is that silly given the boat already 
has an appropriately sized CQR?Â  We hardly ever 
anchor and usually get moorings wherever we 
go.Â  I'm thinking that will change over time 
but, we do like the convenience of just grabbing 
a mooring ball and I think the CQR should suffice for the next season at least.

Â
Anyway, just looking for some insights.
Â
Thanks,
Danny
Rum Runner IV
Tartan 40
Mattapoisett, MA

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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phoneÂ  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

2016-03-28 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



No homopolymer is going to spend the night on my boat if I know about it!  :)

Cheers, Russ


At 06:51 PM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
DelrinÂ®, an industry-trusted name for acetal 
homopolymer. DelrinÂ® is a tough, machinable 
thermoplastic with a high modulus of elasticity, 
high strength, good rigidity, dimensional 
stability, and resistances to moisture, 
chemicals and solvents. It has desirable 
toughness properties, performing well at extreme 
temperatures and under fatigue endurance. A low 
coefficient of friction (COF) alongside 
excellent wear properties, especially in wet or 
moist environments, makes DelrinÂ® one of the 
most widely used engineering thermoplastics on the market today.


Features
[PDF 
Spec Sheet]

High strength and stiffness
Excellent dimensional stability
High crystallinity
High tensile- and impact strength
Excellent creep resistance
Centerline porosity
Consistent properties in wet or moist environments
Very low moisture absorption
Excellent electrical properties
Easy to machine to close tolerances
FDA and USDA compliant grades available

Jerry J&J

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Re: Stus-List Hull paint primer

2016-03-28 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Dennis,

Was the 3 coats of high build primer for long boarding to a fair hull?

When I did the decks I was set to do high build 
primer and the paint rep suggested going the regularly spec'd (2 pot) primer.


I have a hull paint project coming up next year 
and the hull needs fairing, so I'm looking for best practices.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:00 AM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
My only substantive comment on paint is to 
consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.Â  Particularly 
true if you're concerned about 
scratches.Â  Awlcraft is easier to repair and blend.


Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of 
high build primer.Â  The Awlcraft looks great!


Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Knot meter - worth replacing?

2019-04-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Shawn,

Is the paddle with the magnet still there? It 
will show as a little block on one paddle.


If you're lucky with it being there then just 
build up the broken paddle with epoxy putty to 
the same general profile as the other blades. 
Close is good enough for the resolution a 
cruising boat needs. It's not like you're going 
to be using the info for constant fine trimming 
as we might do when racing. Even then a good job on it will be fine.


Cheers, Russ

At 08:30 PM 4/30/2019, you wrote:
The 35-2 has an original (I think) B&G knot 
meter, but the paddle wheel has one paddle 
broken off from a lifting strap. Apparently this 
old sender is no longer available. Is it worth 
getting aÂ replacement knot meter to get speed 
over water? The boat also comes with a B&G H1000 
windex and several extra display units. Possibly 
I could find a knot meter sending unit to work with these?Â


Or should I knot bother and just settle for GPS speed?Â

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Mast conduit plastic cover, C&C 35 Mark 3

2019-05-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Be careful with going too large on the wiring 
conduit. If the wiring can move too much you will 
get this really annoying slapping sound when the 
mast moves around a bit, in an otherwise peaceful anchorage.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:54 AM 5/3/2019, you wrote:
Most masts have a wiring conduit riveted to the 
leading edge.Â  When I had the mast rebuilt last 
year the yard found black polybutyl.Â  They 
stated that the polybutyl was a weak-ish 
solution that could pull out of the rivets and 
recommended replacing it with pvc.Â  They 
fashioned regular pieces of plumbing white pvc 
and glued unions to create the appropriate length.


Due to the added wires they ended up having to 
add an additional partial length conduit for the radar wires.


I would go with the max diameter that will fit 
between the leading edge of the mast and the spreader ribs.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



On Fri, May 3, 2019, 7:47 AM Elizabeth McDonald 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Not sure if all the masts on the 1986 C&C 
35âs, have a plastic insert.Â  This plastic 
cover covers the conduit wiring, which runs most 
of the length on the leading edge of the 
mast.Â  The plastic cover has deteriorated over 
time and is in need of replacement. Â Any owners 
who Â have had this replacement issue, I would appreciate your input.


Liz McDonaldÂ
S/V Autumn Sky
C&C 35 Mark 3
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Re: Stus-List Black goo in keel joint - 35-2

2019-05-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Shawn,

Since you're hauled out for two weeks, why not do 
the keel joint properly? It will mean using an 
amount of epoxy to warrant purchasing a 2 litre 
pack, some fibre & tape. Leftovers go into 
general storage for cruising projects/repairs.


Remember: cruising is simply the act of 
travelling to some other place to work on your boat. :)


Try a solvent wash on the black goo. If it 
dissolves with a bit of exposure to solvent or 
gasoline then it's probably butyl sealant.


For local epoxy & great customer service I have 
been using Fiber Tek products for bulk epoxy.

https://www.fibertek.ca/product-category/fiberglass-materials/epoxy-resins/aqua-set/

Years ago my fave was Industial Formulatiors but 
they were bought up by Systems Three many years 
ago. The Cold Cure formulation is still the best wet cure repair epoxy, IMHO.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

=
Next is a set of instruction from Dennis, provided many year ago.
One thing to add, if you expose fresh lead while 
sanding/grinding it needs an epoxy primer coat 
right away as oxidation starts immediately.
My routine was: at the end of the day I would mix 
a small batch of epoxy and freshly sand any 
exposed lead while the little woman would come 
follow right after and brush on the neat epoxy.


From Dennis:
  Here's the revised, completed reply.

The pics on the photoalbum are of my 35-1, 
Touche'.  I repaired the smile when I bought the 
boat in 1999.  Here's the words to go with the pics.
   * Tighten the keelbolts.  If you don't 
properly torque the bolts, any attempts to fix 
the smile may fail. The torque specs are on the 
photoalbum site under the "Technical Info" 
button.  Keelbolts should be backed off then 
torque dry (without lubrication) to the proper spec.
   * Dig out and loose crumbly keel material at 
the hull/keel joint back to solid material.
   * Preparation is critical.  Rough up the 
fiberglass and make sure all dust and loose particles are removed.
   * Fill the area with thickened epoxy.  You 
can use epoxy thickened with microfibers if the 
gap is fairly narrow (1/4 inch or less).  If the 
gap is wider, I would use epoxy thickened with 
chopped fiber or "kitty hair".  I used chopped 
carbon fiber (whoohoo! high tech!)  If the gap is 
wide, fill in a few layers rather than one large fill.

   * After curing, fair out the repair.
   * I covered the entire hull keel joint with a 
strip of 4 inch biaxial tape and epoxy.
   * I then covered the first layer of tape with 
2 overlapping strips of biaxial tape and 
epoxy.  Probably overkiil if the bolts are properly torqued.

   * Fair out the repair.

This repair has held for 12 years.  I have had a 
fairly hard grounding or two with no noticeable effects.


I am familiar with G-Flex having used it to 
re-attach the floor in an inflatable dinghy 
(worked fairly well).  As this repair involves a 
joint that is under significant compression, I 
think I would want a material that was rigid and did not compress.


Now for the caveats.  This assumes that your 
hull, keel stub, keelbolts, washers, spacers and 
keel top are all in good condition.


If the washers and/or spacers under your keelbolt 
nuts are not stainless, change them now.


A chronic leak could have deteriorated the 
keelbolts.  A friend of mine with a Tartan 33 had 
a chronic leak at the hull/keel joint.  When the 
yard dropped his keel, a few of his keelbolts 
were deteriorated.  The keel was shipped to Mars Metals for bolt replacement.


Problems with the integrity and construction of 
the keel stub have been reports for some 
boats.  I'll let other listers describe these issues.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
=

At 09:03 AM 5/4/2019, you wrote:
Thanks for the info. The fellow I spoke with 
owns a Landfall 42, and suggested for the small 
amount I will need, they should have some at the 
club that I can use, rather than buying a whole 
tin. I will see if it is G-Flex that they have.


Although I will need to haul again next year for 
a new survey, I'd prefer to do this job right 
this time, and not have to dig into it again. 
I'm also planning to check the keel bolt torque. 
Should I do this before applying epoxy? The 
joint seems very tight, with no sign of a smile 
- just a bit of lead corrosion at the leading 
edge. I suppose I could take some of the weight 
off the keel with the stands to see if it opens 
up, but I doubt it will based on the tight sealant I pulled out.


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:20 PM Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have not heard of anyone using Sikaflex.Â  I 
would recommend G-Flex and follow the prescription in the link below.


https://dri

Re: Stus-List Prop for 35-2

2019-05-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Shawn,

I suggest you don't do any improvements to the 
prop or shaft right now. Use her for a year and see how it performs.


Sure, the blade tip clearance looks too small 
(should be 15% of diameter) and the overhang 
looks enormous but why not wait & see?


Moving the strut back is no small deal and 
requires a new (longer) strut or an ugly hull buildup at mounting location.


Nice to have the 2.5:1 tranny. That could easily 
swing a 16 X 16 prop with the old Pathfinder 
diesel... given enough room of course. The 
Campbell Sailor is an excellent choice for a 
cruising boat and your size will be able to put 
something like 25 - 30 HP into the water if you need to.


For prop porn try:
http://www.kiwiprops.co.nz/cms/index.php

I chose one of these for Sweet in considering 
sailing performance AND tip clearance 
considerations. The tips are so far back on the 
hub that I could swing a 15 1/2" prop with the normal space abaft the strut.


Cheers, Russ

Hey! Why aren't you under the boat all dirty and 
grimy on this Saturday morning?





At 09:17 AM 5/4/2019, you wrote:
I'm posting this for reference, in case it isÂ 
helpful to anyone. The prop on our new 35-2 is a 
Campbell Sailor 3 blade, marked 14 1/2 RH P16, 
on a 1" shaft. It is driven by a 40hp VW diesel, 
through a Hurth 100 2.5:1 transmission. The 
engine does not have a tach, but I plan on 
adding one so I can see how things compare with engine speed vs: boat speed.Â


While the shaft overhang is quite long at about 
12" beyond the cutlass bearing and strut, a 
surveyor looked at it and said he'd seen quite a 
few done this way, and didn't feel it was an 
issue, and the shaft was true. Of course, if I 
snag a line, I am more likely to bend something, 
so I will exercise care. My only options to 
reduce the overhang are moving to a long strut 
closer to the prop, or installing a smaller prop 
and shortening the shaft. I'm at a 16 pitch now, 
so I don't know if a smaller prop with a steeper 
pitch will work. I'll investigate that if the 
current setup starts to cause issues.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Diesel engine fire-I chose a Halon ext for my engine

2019-06-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




I too think the Halon auto is the best choice but 
last time I tried, could not be purchased new in 
Canada due to damaging effects to ozone layer (or 
some other SJW concern). Older ones could still be refilled a few years ago.


The best non-residue solution is probably CO2 and 
the little port, as discussed.


I bought one of these little puppies:
http://www.elidefire.eu.com/
Figuring "what the hell" as a back-up it cannot 
hurt too much. Position it high & aft in the 
engine compartment. Looks like a slight residual powder may be left behind.


Don't discount the possibility of a diesel fire 
when there is pressurized fuel line(s) near high temperature exhaust surface.
Gargle "steam turbine oil fires" to see what a 
hot metal temperature and lube oil will do.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:39 PM 6/2/2019, you wrote:
I think Halon is nearly perfect for 
bilge/mechanical area.on the inert gas sinks 
like propane, and smothers any fire by denying 
it oxygen. It also doesnât hurt the intake 
system on your most likely, running engine. I 
learned a lot from a previous rear engine auto 
engine compartment fire.Â  I proudly shot a 
powder type extinguisher on the running engine 
and got to rebuild the engine on my original 1960 Porsche 356.
If the Halon was released by the heat sensing 
valve, it will immediately stop your engine and 
shouldnât effect the engine when 
restarted.Â  The inert gas is pulled to the spaces that are on fire.
Â Obviously the Halon will not bode well for any 
oxygen breathing organisms so some airing out would be required.
I am not certain if they are readily available 
any more. I have had them on 3 different boats. 
I was told that unlike powdered systems, if they 
weigh the same as new, they are as good as new.


I think mine is a âFireboyâ. I think I will 
check to see if they are still available! 
Installation in the engine compartment is very simple.


Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA
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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous roll call

2019-08-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Lee,

Melody & I missed you the many years that you did 
not come to the rendezvous. The early years we met with you were brilliant.


But you might wish to revisit the stats on your 
"2012' blog entry. 845  mile trip?? Seattle at 
47.6N and Thetis at just below the "49" suggests 
you really really strayed. Or nice cruise.


Cheers, Russ
ex Sweet 35 mk-1





At 08:31 PM 8/8/2019, you wrote:

Hi Patrick & Kari,

Good for you!  Iâm so jealous!
Sorry, Didnât make it again this year!  Say âHiâ for us!
Last time was 
2012: 
http://www.leeyoungbloodphoto.com/2012sites/BC_RDV_Trip/start.html

We miss you all!

Argh, Lee
s/v Simplicity 1974 C&C 35-II


On Aug 8, 2019, at 7:11 00PM, Patrick Gateley 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi all,

My wife and I are attending our first 
Rendezvous! We'll be on Thetis Island around 
6p.  Anyone from the list attending?


Thanks,

Patrick and Kari Gateley
"Odessa" 1988 C&C 44
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Re: Stus-List Sardine in intake

2019-08-09 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Rick,

We had many similar situations on a Desolation Sound cruise.

For us it started in Lund as we were leaving the 
dock and lost water flow, so shutdown and coasted 
back to the spot we just left.


After the third time I looked around more closely 
and notice the little fishes liked to hangout 
near the safety of the hull. For the rest of that 
cruise our strategy was to toss some crushed taco 
chips (they like Doritos) over the port side to 
attract them away from the intake. Then we would get underweigh ASAP.


Each time the fish found a different place to get 
stuck: thoughhull valve, strainer tee, mid-hose. 
At the next haulout I glued a strainer to the 
hull and never had another pluggage.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:03 AM 8/9/2019, you wrote:

David,Â
We sucked an apparently curious sardine 
headfirst into the intake while visiting 
Desolation Sound a few years back.Â  Discovered 
the issue much the same way you did by noticing 
increased steam in the exhaust. Idled in to an 
anchorage and starting at the pump worked 
backward to the intake, where Â removing the 
intake hose I could see the small fish limply 
staring at me! Poked at him a little and most of 
him shot into the boat, and naturally a few 
gallons of saltwater before I could get the hose remounted. Problem solved!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA

On Friday, August 9, 2019, David Knecht via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at 
anchor to warm the water tank for 
showers.Â  When we started the engine the next 
morning, I noticed the sound of water from the 
exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few 
minutes later the engine began to overheat.Â  We 
re-anchored and I went below to check the 
strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, 
but not enough to plug it up.Â  My wife (bless 
her heart) dove in and saw a big clump of 
seaweek attached to the hull where the intake 
should be.Â  She managed to clear it and we got 
under way with no more trouble.Â  One lesson is 
to be careful of running the engine when the 
boat is at rest as I am sure you are much more 
likely to suck stuff into the intake as opposed 
to when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has 
never happened to me).Â  But the experience got 
me thinking about how to resolve the problem of 
a plugged intake without swimming.Â  Is it 
possible to take the basket out of the water 
intake strainer and run something flexible and 
stiff down the tube and clear the intake without 
diving?Â  I am thinking of stiff wire or 
something like the fiberglass snake I use for 
running wires through small spaces. Anyone done this successfully? Â  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[]


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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

2019-08-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Dave,

Many years ago I had low voltage on alternator 
output and found it to be a bad diode in the 
rectifier... just one more thing to check.


Cheers, Russ


At 01:40 PM 8/9/2019, you wrote:

Hi All,Â
I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is 
the stock 55 amp alternator.Â Â  I noticed that 
my ACR was not combining batteries, which led me 
to research a bit then measure the voltages on 
each bank, and then at the alternator âBattâ terminal.Â Â
Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the 
voltage at the BATT terminal does not exceed 
12.63 in operation.Â Â  (he ACR therefore 
doesnât âseeâ a charging state) Â The belt is new and not slipping.Â
This suggests and alternator or regulator 
problem.Â Â  Does this make sense?Â  Is there anything else I should check?
If I end up replacing the regulator, are there 
better options for this alternator than stock?


Thanks All.

Dave



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)

2019-08-26 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Brien,

TAZ looks really good. Care to elaborate on the "automatic transmission"?

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:04 AM 8/21/2019, you wrote:
We have bought a new boat and have to let our 
TAZ go. I've only had her for a few years but 
she has been great to us. Below is the link to 
her Facebook ad. Please let anybody know that might be interested.Â


R/

Brien Sadler

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2649261335107049/
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK III For Sale (New London, CT)

2019-08-26 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Brein,

We used to have fun on this list with things like this.

Check your Faceplant listing, About This Vehicle:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2649261335107049/

I sold my beloved 35 mk-1 last year and often 
think of getting rid of this old house too, 
retire, scour the east coast for another C&C  gem 
and go winter cruising in the Caribbean.


Cheers, Russ


At 07:53 PM 8/26/2019, you wrote:
Russ & Melody, LOL! I don't see where is says 
that but if it does itâs clearly an error. Brien Sent from my iPhone >



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Re: Stus-List engine oil

2019-08-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Yes, you certainly can ask.

For the record Wade, Shell Rotella is my "go to" oil. A wonderful 
choice for that engine. I even use Triple-T (non-synthetic) in the motorcyles.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet. mk-1


At 10:46 AM 8/30/2019, you wrote:
Can I ask if I can use Shell Rotella Synthetic diesel oil in my 1986 
Yanmar 2GM?


Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

2019-08-31 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Ron, Wade & Bill,

It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced 
yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please 
don't change any practice that works for you on my account.


For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the 
cheapest thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel 
like it. My routine was every fall except every other if I had less 
than 100 hours on that year.


The filter gets changed much less.
Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty 
and the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful).


When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use 
as the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when 
loaded on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the 
cheap, doncha know!


The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure 
followed by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized 
diesel runs much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine.

Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as:
GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils
BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas rated)
BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils

So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main 
reason I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose 
cooling capacity and don't notice right away then when "something 
smells HOT!" happens the synthetic oil may be the difference between 
an inconvenience and disaster.


Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike 
trip, 1200 CC air cooled,  to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" 
by putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. 
Synthetic is too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has 
the JEMA rating, like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on 
that oil change with only putting in top-ups.  Not recommended at all 
but demonstrates the quality of regular rated diesel oil.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:36 AM 8/31/2019, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_716484_1681950774.1567272988188"
Content-Length: 1916

I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic 
oil in an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its 
life.  The claim was that it would clean the engine too good and it 
would start leaking.

It's highly recommended for newer cars of course.
I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless 
the fact that they're diesels would make a difference???

Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL

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Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories

2019-09-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an 
auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood 
runabout but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and 
folk lore of the day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning 
powder) could restore an engine.


We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box 
into the carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started 
climbing and the boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two 
season before I got a nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder 
gunked up the piston & cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance.


I would not recommend the practice.

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote:
As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8.  I 
wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used 
a nice detergent 10-30.  The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the 
bearings and engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil 
that a could not see out the rear view mirror.


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
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Re: Stus-List engine oil

2019-09-02 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Andy,

It might be time for your mechanic to update his 
old info. It's not his father's synthetic oil on the market these days.


A simple gargle search:
http://gcocregina.ca/can-synthetic-oil-be-used-in-older-vehicles/
https://myengineneeds.com/what-synthetic-oil-is-better-for-older-cars/
https://www.gmpartsonline.net/blog/synthetic-oil-safe-older-truck


As I say, oil is the cheapest thing a yachtsman 
buys for his precious boat. Why not spend the 
extra 20 bucks a year and get the best? Think 
anchor gear... most years you don't need the best 
gear so why haul all that extra weight around?


`   Cheers, Russ


At 07:11 AM 9/2/2019, you wrote:
For what it's worth, I use non synthetics oils 
and I wouldnât think of not change the filter 
with each oil change. When I installed the new 
engine in my 40 two years ago I asked the 
mechanic about using synthetic oil and was told 
absolutely not! For the reasons already explained here.


Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Favorite on board boat "go to" tools

2019-10-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I love my Fluke multi-meter industrial quality. 
It the standard for hand meter at our power 
plant.  I bought the boat unit at a thrift shop, 
found next to a box of old "remotes", for 10 bucks!


The essential boat tools are:
- 4 ounce shot glass
- bttl of Oakheart
- bttl of Gosling Black Seal (and ginger beer/lime)
- Gorrilla tape
- self fusing tape
- High temperature RTV silicone
- knockometer (hammer)
-

cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:51 AM 10/7/2019, you wrote:
We all have our favorite tools we keep on the 
boat.Â  Here's two of mine that I use frequently.


Fluke 101 multimeter.Â  For years I kept a $20 
multimeter from a big box store on the boat in a 
zip lock bag.Â  It worked fine.Â  A few months 
ago I bought a Fluke 101 on Amazon for 
$40.Â  MUCH better meter.Â  For those not into 
electrical, Fluke makes very good meters.Â  I 
have a Fluke 85 multimeter that I used in my 
marine repair business for years.Â  The 101 is its baby brother.


Gearwrench 85035 Microdriver Set.Â  I love this 
tool.Â  It gets in tight spots, applies extra 
leverage needed to break loose fasteners and 
gets used a LOT on Touche' and around my house.Â  I have 3 of them.Â Â


Seems like I could probably complete 90% of the 
jobs on the boat with these two tools.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Favorite on board boat "go to" tools

2019-10-08 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

When I grow up I want to be like Jim.

Cheers, Russ

At 10:26 PM 10/7/2019, you wrote:

I like the way you think.  Actually what I expected outa Jim!

randy
Tamanawas
29-2,
The Gorge

> On Oct 7, 2019, at 9:43 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:

>
>
> I love my Fluke multi-meter industrial quality. It the standard 
for hand meter at our power plant.  I bought the boat unit at a 
thrift shop, found next to a box of old "remotes", for 10 bucks!

>
> The essential boat tools are:
> - 4 ounce shot glass
> - bttl of Oakheart
> - bttl of Gosling Black Seal (and ginger beer/lime)
>
>
>
>

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Re: Stus-List Gargantuan Power Boat

2019-10-17 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




Hi Bill,

I don't know the boat but I bet they shut the lights off for an hour 
on Earth Day.


:)

Cheers, Russ


At 09:30 AM 10/12/2019, you wrote:
Does anyone who has gone to the Sailboat Show know anything about 
the huge boat in front of the Annapolis Yacht Club? You cannot even 
see the club behind it!


Bill Coleman
Erie PA
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Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4 hp 2 cycle help

2019-11-07 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




I love these little Japanese motors but mine (I have a few) usually 
don't need much work.


What is wrong with her?

cheers, Russ



At 02:25 PM 11/7/2019, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_CY4PR1601MB132048E0930E70320B5ECFADDA780CY4PR1601MB1320_"

Anyone have experience working on these?  Ripped off by mechanic and 
not much online for self help.


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

2019-11-09 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




Thanks for letting us know Mike.

See you soon dear.


At 08:30 AM 11/9/2019, you wrote:

Ok.  Leaving  home now.  Will be there in 15 mins

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew 
L. Wolford via CnC-List

Sent: November 9, 2019 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing



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Re: Stus-List Yamaha 4 hp 2 cycle help

2019-11-15 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi David (and Marek),

I can't believe it's been so long to reply... I 
gotta retire soon. I am way too busy now.


I like what Marek has determined, below.

A couple o' things to add:
- not just impeller but often the impediment to 
cooling flow is a restriction between the block 
outlet and injection to exhaust. Take apart all 
the hoses and clean out debris with a wire pick


- the crab float shutoff thing is not uncommon in 
old engines. I have outboard motors and 
motorcycles dating back to the 70s. On some, to 
rehab the carb/float situation it is simply a 
matter of removing the carb gas feed hose and 
spraying in a cleaner/lube such as WD-40. It 
cleans any debris and gives a nice film to lube up the needle 7 seat on a carb.
If that doesn't work for your situation with 
dropping gas in the stowed position. I suggest a 
practical solution that I used in the summer o' 
'08.. Simply rotate the power head so the tiller 
handle/ throttle know is facing in the up 
position. The carb won't drain out in this position.


cheers, Russ





At 06:42 PM 11/8/2019, you wrote:


My $0.02:

 - Engine sounds as if it is running dry 
exhaust.  Crappy mechanic said it was a 
"gasket"...where could that be?   Its not an 
exhaust manifold gasket... [MD]  I would 
suspect the impeller first (like in an inboard); they do fail.


 - When engine tilted, fuel runs out of cowl 
unless fuel shut-off closed.  Said mechanic 
said a "pin" was missing? [MD]  the carburetor 
probably leaks; my first suspect would be the 
float and pin that closes the valve for the fuel.



Marek
Ottawa, ON
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole resurfacing

2019-11-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




Hi Spencer,

For walnut shells application try wetting out a separate test piece 
and sprinkle the walnut shells onto it with something like a salt 
shaker. Then a topcoat when just past tacky.


Cheers, Russ


At 11:51 AM 11/17/2019, you wrote:


  ..


Getting the right ratio of walnut to Polyuruthane took some 
testingI found that 1.5 teaspoons walnut to 4 oz. Polyuruthane 
seemed to work.  The final problem is how to keep the crushed 
walnuts suspended long enough to get enough on the brush.   We'll see...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF38 "Alegria"
Racine/Waukegan
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole Refinishing

2019-11-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Spencer,

Good to hear. I too find that clear polyurethane coatings are too 
viscous for the shells dispersing... paint too.


The idea of waiting until after tack is so you don't sand between 
coats. In this application a next day overcoat is usually just fine.


I think someone else suggested taping the holly strips as I hadn't 
thought of it. Seems a little anal to me for something you trod on 
anyhow. A sole is supposed to functional not something that you might 
pour a wine and sit on to admire. Yeesh.


I stopped using walnut shells on deck applications because the 
coating gets rubbed off quickly and the turn dark. In easy going 
applications it's not a concern.
On companionway treads & such I like the subtle contrast when it goes 
darker as it's good for old eyes to discern the steps, etc.


Using that jam jar mod is brilliant. And I hear that down south it 
can also be used to apply bourbon (to yourself, without the lid).


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1
east side, Vancouver Island



Hi Russ! Good idea...I was just following the included instructions 
by mixing with the polyurethane first...this kinda worked but didn't 
disperse the walnut shells evenly.I created a test board, put a few 
coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane on it, then with a wet coat and a 
re-purposed jam jar with a nail hole in the top (not too big) I 
sprinkled as evenly as possible, let it dry (spreading a wet coat 
over the not-so-wet coat kinda messed up the bottom coat). Letting 
it dry completely and adding another coat seemed to work as I 
liked.Taping the Holly stripes seemed to cause more surface 
disruption...pulling the tape up right after laying down a coat left 
tape lines/ridges that are a bit annoying.=C2=A0 I will be testing 
without taping and see how annoying the walnut shells are on the holly..
UPDATE: Using an old jam jar with one small nail hole init for the 
walnut shells I was able to control the sprinkle onto the wet 
polyurethane evenly.
The proof will be when I replace the cabin sole and lay down the 
rugs to see how easily they move around.
IF...any lister would like a supply of crushed walnut shells just 
let me know where to send it...I have about 2/3rds of an 18 oz jam 
jar that I will never use.  I would suspect that 2-3 tablespoons 
more than cover a typical cabin sole...


Spencer Johnson
84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165
Racine, WI / Waukegan, IL
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Re: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

2020-01-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



A friend borrowed my  Fender Jazz Bass in 1986, 
travelled to Alberta and 'lost" it in Edmonton.


If anyone finds one in their raw water strainer 
may I check it for identification? I miss that bass sometimes.


Cheers, Russ
ex Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast, Vancouver Island, east side

At 06:32 PM 1/5/2020, you wrote:

Much better than a large smallmouth bass. Or a Fender Jazz Bass.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 5 Jan 2020 at 10:53, Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


This fall when winterizing, I found a small, Â 
largemouth bass halfway into my strainer!


Â

Â

Bill Coleman

Erie, PA

Â

Â

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 4:31 PM
To: C&CList
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

Â

Tom

Â

You said:Â Alera has a blockage somewhere in the 
raw water system.Â Â I checked the intake and 
the pump.Â  Both seem fineÂ But, there seems to be no flow at the strainer.


Â

You likelyÂ have sucked up some trash or 
possibly a small fish and this blocking the raw 
water intake line between the intake & the 
strainer. Just my 2 cents worth having been 
there and done that a few times on the 43 years that we have owned Honey


Â

Â

Best regards,
Jack FitzgeraldÂ
S/V HONEY - US12788

C&C 39 TM (1974)
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.Â  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.Â  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.Â  Thank you

Â

Â

Â

On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 2:34 PM Stephen Thorne 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Itâs also possible the exhaust elbow has 
become corroded.Â  I had to replace one because of same issue.


Â

Steve Thorne

Deja Vu

Â

On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 1:05 PM John and Maryann 
Read via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Tom

What engine do you have?Â  Fresh or raw water 
cooled?Â  Â Common issue for Yanmar is exhaust 
riser getting plugged by carbon etc where water 
enters.Â  Will also impact engine 
performance.Â  Disconnect hose where enters 
exhaust riser.Â  If water streams, then you have 
your answer.Â  Also check the fitting where hose 
attaches to riser  is clear??ÂÂ  If not, best 
place is check if any blockage at intake or 
strainer  maybe ssomething got into and plugged 
the hose??Â  A friendâs hose inlet has less 
than ideal configuration and frequently sucks up 
eel grass and such and plugs the inlet 
hose.Â  Another culprit might be the pump 
impeller lost a vane and is stuck in the system before the strainer.


Â

Just some thoughts and good luck

Â

Â

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Â

Â

Â

Â

Â

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

Â

Alera has a blockage somewhere in the raw water 
system.Â  Nothing out the exhaust.Â


Â

Â I checked the intake and the pump.Â  Both seem 
fine.Â  But, there seems to be no flow at the strainer.


Â

I am wondering if there is some maintenance 
needed for the vented loop?Â  It is the next 
link in the chain and Iâm running out of links.


Tom Buscaglia

S/V AleraÂ

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

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the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting

2020-03-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Charlie,

I don't believe you are crazy for wanting to paint over some teak 
panelling. I've done similar recoats to brighten up a small space.


However, I highly recommend that you apply a slightly thinned coat of 
"varnish" first, as a primer. Thus if you or someone wants to change 
back to teak finish later it is easy to strip and you won't have 
paint bits filling in the pores of the wood (almost impossible to get 
out without damaging the panel).


Cheers, Russ

Oh, and BTW gentlemen, please strip the excess off of messages before 
replying.
As a special courtesy to Stu, give it a bit o' thought to 
housekeeping before posting.



What a nag eh.



At 03:36 PM 2/29/2020, you wrote:



Thanks for your perspectives.

I admit that I had not considered that freshening up the boat as I 
planned would diminish the value--given the sorry state of the water 
stained teak my thought was that it would increase the value!


My thoughts were that something needs done with the current teak in 
the boat--especially the main cabin where the water stains are--and 
that in order to do the teak with varnish, the stains and the teak 
really need cleaned up--far beyond just doing interior varnishing 
over a previously varnished teak. My teak was never varnished, only 
left natural with very occasional oil rubbed on--maybe twice in 25 years.


Given the stains, my guess is that cleaning them up for varnish 
application would likely double the cost of the refresh since the 
surface prep would be extensive and then there are multiple varnish 
coats to be addressed. After likely 5+ boat bucks, I am left with a 
likely very pretty, shiny AND dark teak interior. I have not been to 
any boat shows lately, but all the ads for boats show pictures with 
light, airy, bright interiors. I think that might make my 1995 model 
look more like a 2015 or 2020 model boat down below, as opposed to a 
1985, 1975 or even older boat. Of course, I could be totally wrong 
in this since I have only sold ONE boat in my life!


Painting the faces of the teak doors (both cabin and storage), 
drawers, etc. and leaving the remaining teak alone appears to me to 
keep the cost reasonable AND add substantial brightness to the 
cabin. BTW, my head was finished by the factory in a similar 
manner--almost all the surfaces are off-white (Formica or painted 
wood--not sure)--only the cabinet handles and trim are teak and it 
still looks great.


I am faced with trade-offs of cost vs. change in value (+ or -). I 
doubt that any varnish or paint job will add or subtract 
substantially to the boat value at sale time--its more a matter of
"...the lesser of two weevils..." to copy from Patrick O'Bryan. If I 
am right or even close to it, I need to get the best refresh for the 
money and to me that seems like paint vs. varnish--although I still 
cringe a little when I think of painting over mostly solid, is 
seriously stained, teak!


FWIW,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC





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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C&C 24

2020-04-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only be 
tightened while the boat is ashore.


While that is a convenient activity during the 
annual haulout period that Eastern boats get, it 
is not entirely practical for us on the West 
Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or three years.


The technical sheet in the link shows the 
theoretical load on a 1" bolt (torque to 350 
ft-lbs spec) is ~12,000 lbs. This is more than 
the weight of the keel such that it does not 
matter whether the keel is supported on the 
ground or hanging in the water, the joint is held 
firmly together by one keelbolt. The rest are not 
required to do anything at this time.

https://www.hobson.com.au/files/technical/utd-gd-torque-tension.pdf

I suggest that the proper procedure for 
tightening keelboats be observed whether the boat is in water or in the yard.


For a 1" keelboat to 350 ft-lbs torque:
start with centre nut and take it to 250 ft-lbs, 
repeat for other nuts alternating for and aft sequence
remove centre nut and lubricate, retorque to 300 
ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above

retorque centre nut to 350 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above
Then you can a have a beer Chris and reflect on 
how fortunate you are to be sailing B.C South 
Coast. Anything 100 miles to the east of you is beyond Hope.

   :) 

Cheers, Russ
East side o'  Vancouver Island


At 08:15 AM 4/24/2020, you wrote:

Chris,

The prevailing wisdom of this list suggests that 
the keel bolts only be torqued while the boat is 
resting on its keel, generally about 60% of it's 
weight depending on the design.Â  In this way 
you are not turning the nuts against the weight 
of the keel or even trying to compress the 
bedding material.Â  IMO, it is likely that you 
will find more movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land.


I am not familiar with the design of your 
particular boat but some boats have keel bolts 
which are entirely inaccessible with the mast in 
place.Â  Make sure there isn't one (or two) hiding somewhere.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Status update: I ended up torquing the keel 
bolts. They were not incredibly loose but all of 
them needed tightening, two by a turn or more 
and the other two by less than a turn. I will 
know if this removed the keel movement when the 
boat is next hauled out, although I am also 
thinking of diving on her to see if I can detect 
any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the water 
is pretty cold but manageable for a few minutes 
with a wet suit - I hope!). I believe that a 
very small looseness in a narrow keel root would 
result in a fairly noticeable movement at the 
tip of a 3 foot keel - even 1/8 inch of movement 
over 2 inches width would translate into a 
couple of inches at the tip, if I have that 
right. So hopefully this was the issue!


I took Drifter for a sail today after rebuilding 
the mast step and did not notice any flexing or 
movement in the floors or hull (made pencil 
marks on the floors and adjacent hull skin and 
checked on different tacks).Â  I also checked 
the tabbing under the settees on one side and 
found it intact,Â so suspect that the surveyor 
may have jumped to conclusions when he said the 
hull had been compromised and that was what was causing the keel movement.

Â
Â Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions.

ChrisÂ
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement- now bolt torque

2020-04-27 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Neil,

Thanks for keeping the discussion alive. It is 
good to look at these from various perspectives.


I am glad you recognize that the primary function 
of the keelboat set is to keep the keel/hull 
joint intact. Many people just look at the keel 
weight in water vs on jackstands as the metric 
for decided the re-tighten methodology. If the 
row of bolts were there to hold onto the lead 
keel while the vessel is on beam ends we would 
not tolerate them being on centreline now, would we.


So, you have all bolts tightened up to total a 
200,000 load holding the keel/hull joint together.

Good.
Floating at the marina you have 6000 lbs of lead 
trying to separate that joint. In the boatyard 
you have about 4000 lbs hull trying to compress 
the joint (6000 - 2000 for jackstand support). 
The difference is 10,000 lbs or ~5% of that 
200,000 lb  loading. You may recall the sheet I 
linked to, where it indicates the +/- for 
reaching desired torque is >20%... well within 
the tolerance of the theoretical benefits between these two positions.


So I will restate that I am not in agreement that 
keelboats can only be tightened while ashore.


As a moot point I believe the highest loading on 
the keeljoint is not with the boat on her beam 
ends, a relatively static position with the keel 
well separated from flow. I believe the highest 
loading to be ~30 degree heel and pounding to 
weather in severe conditions where you have the 
dynamic forces of leeway (lateral resistance), 
leverage and shock momentum (abrupt elevation 
changes due to wave height) all added to joint strain.


I do miss my old (1972) 35 mk-1. Sold her a year 
& a half ago to make room in my heart for the 
cruising boat project sitting in my yard. The one 
bright light of this COVID thing for me is the 
amount of epoxy resin & sanding I get to do now. :)


Cheers, Russ




At 02:46 PM 4/25/2020, you wrote:

Keel bolt torque on the hard or in the 
watera classic on Stu's List.  Ill jump in.


Torquing keel bolts in the water is equivalent 
to tightening the head bolts on an engine while 
it's running, probably not a good idea.  Bolted 
joints are intended to be initially preloaded by 
tightening the nut and bolt before the load is applied.


What has to be considered for keel bolts first 
is that the design condition for the hull/keel 
joint is when the boat is on her beam ends, 
thats the maximum load that can be applied, and 
in this condition the purpose of the keel bolts 
is to keep the hull/keel interface in 
compression.  If the compression goes to zero  
lets say just to illustrate, a gap opens 
between hull and keel  the bolts would now be 
trying to support the keel under bending load, 
and theyd snap in a heartbeat.  ( A quick 
calculation for my 35-1 keel with 6 one-inch 
bolts shows about 200,000 psi stress in that 
condition).  So the point of torquing the bolts 
is to create enough pre-compression in the 
joint, and if you torque while under load, i.e., 
in the water, you are giving up some of that 
margin.  Will it cause the keel to fall 
off?  No, but were lessening the safety factor, 
and its all about having some margin.  Thus the 
best way to tighten keel bolts is on the hard to get the most preload.


Having said that, in Chriss case which started 
this discussion, my recommendation was to 
tighten the bolts in the water if his keels 
loose, as I said above the last thing you want 
is to lose compression, but to go to a little 
lower torque than in the specs.  Then torque to 
full specs when on the jackstands later.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/24/2020 1:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only 
be tightened while the boat is ashore.


While that is a convenient activity during the 
annual haulout period that Eastern boats get, 
it is not entirely practical for us on the West 
Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or three years.
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Re: Stus-List Spring Fever

2020-05-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




Hi Rod,

Do you have a link for that Transport Canada notice?

 I can't find anything about it... seems kinda 
odd though, being as small boats are typically a 
provincial jurisdiction. Although there are a ton 
of tiny bureaucrats jumping on this covid flu 
thing to enhance their own importance.


We had the RCMP at some boat ramps discouraging 
people from going out to fish at the same time 
the Chief Public Health officer, Dr. Bonnie 
Henry, was telling people to get outside.


Weird times indeed. It might be time to regain 
some of our rights since the hospitals are empty 
and not overwhelming them was the whole purpose of lockdown.


Cheers, Russ



At 03:36 PM 5/3/2020, you wrote:
Thanks Neil hopefully they will allow groups of 
5 or less but they couple that with social 
distancing.  Additionally Transport Canada 
currently says you can only have family you live 
with on the boat, regardless of the size of the 
boat.  Hopefully that will change, last Friday 
you werenât allowed to work on your boat so that has changed.


Rod



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Re: Stus-List Spilled Epoxy

2020-05-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Doug,

I routinely clean the epoxy tools with acetone. But I don't believe 
your foam will stand up to it, maybe a little test patch. The fabric 
might be okay.


If the foam cushion is symmetrical then how about removing it from 
the fabric cover and "spilling" a bit o' hardener on the area, then 
rotate installation so that part of the foam is on the bottom. If we 
were talking about a Microsoft product you would sell it as an 
anti-wear "feature".


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1



At 04:41 PM 5/11/2020, you wrote:
I need help. I spilled epoxy resin on my brand new upholstery, and 
it went unnoticed for several days, so it has soaked into the new 
foam also. The area is about 6 sq inches. My question is what do I 
use to remove the resin with out damaging the foam?
I am not to worried about the fabric as I sewed it myself and have 
plenty left over.

Thanks in advance
Doug

--
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
sv Rebecca Leah
C&C LandFall 39



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Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice?

2018-07-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Noah,

It can be done. Too many details to list here, but this is a good start:
https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1
for sale on Vancouver Island, feel free to forward link SVP,
http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445




At 09:58 AM 7/13/2018, you wrote:
Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and 
will be using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw 
looks like it will cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do 
along the St. Lawrence River and onward. My plan is to shorten the 
keel. Does anyone have advice or guidance to offer?


Many Thanks,

Noah
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Re: Stus-List jump starting a yanmar

2018-07-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



That was a little winded.

If you wish to jump the start solenoid with a
screwdriver, the simplest advice is: put it
across the two big wire connections.

Oh, and try not to scream like a girl when it sparks bigly. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1

At 09:52 AM 7/14/2018, you wrote:

Here you go.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Jul 14, 2018, 7:26 AM Michael Crombie
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi all, does anyone know which solenoid
terminals I need to connect (with a screwdriver)
when i'm jump starting a yanmar 2gm20f?

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii



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Re: Stus-List Gas consumption C&C34 with Atomic 4

2018-07-14 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Jay,

Fuel estimate for Sweet when she had the A4 was 4
litres per hour at cruising speed. Speed range
was 3 - 5.5 knots (depended on conditions) with a two blade fixed prop.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:29 AM 7/14/2018, you wrote:

Hello colleagues
Filled with gas for the Atomic 4 in Port Whitby
Canada Day and sailed back to Toronto. Wind out
of the West and tight timeline meant we had to
motor against the wind and waves for 2.5 hr.
That would be relatively âhardâ motoring at
4-5 knots. Since then Iâve motored about
another 3/4hr for a total of 3.25 hours, again
at about 4.5 knots. Filled with gas again the
other day to measure gas consumption and got 7.9
litres per hour, or 1.8 gal per hour.
Iâve got a 2-blade folding prop (which, by the
way, make reversing difficult - in the sense that there is no quick stopping).
Does that seem normal?
Online research seems to go from 0.5 to 2-3 gal per hour.
Anyone with an A4 on a C&C34 with a gas consumption comparison out there?
thanks
Jay Hackney
Windblown
Toronto

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Stus-List wild B.C.coast

2018-07-22 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Okay. So I don't normally associate our little yacht club as being 
part of the wild B.C. coast, except Bathtub Race Weekend and Hell's 
Angles bike rides, of course.


This little story happened on my dock a couple hundred feet from Sweet.
https://www.cheknews.ca/nanaimo-man-comes-within-meters-of-cougar-before-its-killed-471298/

That's not to say there aren't regular cougar sightings here. ' just 
that the more frequent ones involve bipeds and typically happen on 
the weekend when the young lads are sailing. :)



oh yeah... and someone lost a canon
https://www.cheknews.ca/artillery-gun-comes-loose-and-hits-taxi-in-nanaimo-472113/


Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1 


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Re: Stus-List Re-activate mailings

2018-08-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Changing the password... funny or mean-spirited?

Let's have a poll to record your preference.

Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 09:24 PM 8/5/2018, you wrote:

Excellent, I will hook you up with my spam provider.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 5 August 2018 at 08:50, Dan Sargeant via
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Please resume sending emails. Thanks.
sargeant@gmail.com
PW : tobiquer

Sent from my iPhone

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the list - use PayPal to send contribution
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Boom insert

2018-08-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Richard,

Why not get 1/2 dozen, or so, regular sail slugs that fir the larger 
opening and have them sewn to the Doyle cover? It's not like you need 
a continuos bolt rope to do the intend job (of holding the bottom of 
the cover to the boom).


Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 05:47 AM 8/10/2018, you wrote:
J need help identifying a piece of plastic that is an insert into 
the slot of my boom, (1985 C&C 37); this piece effectively makes the 
slot narrower so that the sail boltrope fits and stays in the 
slot.   I have a loose footed main, but the sail cover uses that 
slot (Doyle cradle cover). The insert was on the boat when I bought 
it 4 years ago and has not been an issue, however, now it is 
breaking into pieces, presumably from UV deterioration and I need to 
replace that piece of plastic...the Doyle folks say they aren't 
familiar with the piece; there are no sail makers or reps in our area...


anyone have any ideas? thought? suggestions? As always, many thanks!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


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Re: Stus-List Boom insert

2018-08-10 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Smart people. Those guys at "sailingservices..."

:)

Cheers, Russ
ex- Sweet, 35mk-1



At 11:36 AM 8/10/2018, you wrote:
Jim, thanks, they don't have it; they suggested the same thing that 
Russ did...have slugs put on the boltrope!


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: James Hesketh via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: James Hesketh 
Sent: Fri, Aug 10, 2018 12:37 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom insert

Richard,

One of the best rigging shops in the U.S. is in Miami, give them a 
call. They may have an idea what suppliers C&C used for spars over 
the years, or may even know what part asking about.


sailingservices.com

Jim Hesketh
Miami, FL
C&C 26 -- Whisper



J need help identifying a piece of plastic that is an insert into 
the slot of my boom, (1985 C&C 37); this piece effectively makes the 
slot narrower so that the sail boltrope fits and stays in the 
slot.   I have a loose footed main, but the sail cover uses that 
slot (Doyle cradle cover). The insert was on the boat when I bought 
it 4 years ago and has not been an issue, however, now it is 
breaking into pieces, presumably from UV deterioration and I need to 
replace that piece of plastic...the Doyle folks say they aren't 
familiar with the piece; there are no sail makers or reps in our area...


anyone have any ideas? thought? suggestions? As always, many thanks!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255



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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

2018-08-18 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.

Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor 
drunk powerboat coming in fast on STBD didn't have a chance...



Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:

Holy crap!  Glad everyoneâs ok.

Cheers,
Randy



https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

2018-08-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



All good points.

quote "coming in fast on STBD..."

Many times I miss Wally too. VBGs were common in the ol' days.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:58 PM 8/20/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D438D0.F8AA4B50"
Content-Language: en-us

The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is 
rolled out implies that he was sailing, thus he would have had right of way.


If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat 
was on his starboard bow, and would have had right of way.


In either case Rule 2 says you need to do 
everything possible, including violating the 
rules, to avoid a collision. So both skippers were at fault.


And if the dufus on the power boat was drinking, 
he can pretty much kiss his merchant mariner 
credentials goodbye. And good riddance.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash


Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.

Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor 
drunk powerboat coming in fast on STBD didn't have a chance...



Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:

Holy crap!  Glad everyoneÃ¢s ¢s ok.

Cheers,
Randy



<https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/>https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/ 



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

2018-08-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I agree that good designers and builders are committed to do what 
they believe is right.


But you might be a wee bit off on ol' Herreshof, "It looks like frozen snot."

https://www.azquotes.com/quote/541975

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1


At 11:36 AM 8/23/2018, you wrote:
... I also believe that the designers and builders of our boats, 
(Rob Ball and friends) were using the very same principle; to make 
the very best yacht possible; why, I bet old Herreshoff himself 
would have loved to work in fiberglass(he would have had a 37)...


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4:
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Re: Stus-List How to post [was CnC-List Digest, lose the External]

2018-09-06 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



AND strip the [EXTERNAL] type junk from the subject line.

It helps with searches, DTR (down the road) or if 
you have some Acadian, DDR (down da road).


We can smirk and appreciate that you are active 
on the list while at work but the [EXTERNAL] thing is almost like bragging.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet
Vancouver Island


At 11:54 AM 9/5/2018, you wrote:


AND change the subject line  replying to digest posts is a no-no!!!

 Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
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Re: Stus-List Instruments...

2018-09-13 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



My wife has over a dozen ukulele (ukuleli?) around here.

I could probably release a few at shipping cost before she will notice...

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 10:12 AM 9/13/2018, you wrote:

My wife has a French Horn she would part with for the right price.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 11 Sep 2018 at 05:52, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Doug...can you send me an email offline? 
Â  davidrisc...@msn.com



David F. Risch, J. D.





--
From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> 
on behalf of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Sent: Monday, September 10, 2018 11:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-List Instruments...
Â
I have a Signed marine wind. And in a couple of months a Data marine set.Â



Doug MountjoyÂ
Rebecca LeahÂ
LF39Â
Port Orchard YC, WA.



 Original message 
From: David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Date: 9/10/18 05:42 (GMT-08:00)
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com>
Subject: Stus-List Instruments...

My son's friend is trying to add instruments to 
his boat.Â  Any spares for sale out there?



Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLCÂ

(401) 419-4650Â


[]
 Virus-free. 
www.avast.com 


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Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming

2018-09-25 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Randy,

In regards to your questions:
1. Not catastrophic, but it is annoying. No
2. Get back to me if #3 doesn't work out.
3. As others have suggested. Bear in mind that 
these days if you make claim, even if it's not 
your fault (and sometimes even if there is no 
pay-out) it counts a claim on your record. You 
may be able to negotiate this at the onset of the process.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:52 PM 9/24/2018, you wrote:

Listers I am in need of your wisdom.

My boat is hauled for the offseason, and I 
dropped the mast again to facilitate towing the boat somewhere for painting.


Yesterday I discovered damage to the mast and 
starboard spreader bracket.  I suspect the 
damage occurred when the boat was being towed to 
the gin pole to take the rig down - the rig was 
towed through some non-trivial tree branches on 
the starboard side, resulting in substantial 
tree trimmings on the boat and on the ground.



So, my questions to you listers:
1. How catastrophic is this?  Am I looking at mast replacement?
2. Thoughts on repair strategies? (esp. for the 
mast - I can probably get a new bracket fabâd, 
and can enlarge and re-tap the screw holes)

3. To make an insurance claim or not?

Note I have the port spreader bracket as a 
template and for fit-testing etc.  Itâs 
undamaged (as is the port side of the mast) and 
symmetric with the starboard bracket save for 
the location of the set screw hole for the spreader.


Grateful for any wisdom you can share.

Thank You,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming

2018-09-25 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Randy,

I offered for you to get back to me on #2 if you weren't proceeding with #3.

So here it is, practical repair strategy 2:
- flatten mast area under spreader base(s) with flap sander, hand 
file or belt sander
- make two (2) pieces aluminum plate 1/4" thick slightly larger area 
than spreader base
- drill hole in each plate same size as stout bolt and alignment as 
per spreader base
- glue each plate to mast, using stout bolt as alignment tool, using 
something like "Devcon" metal repair as to secure the plates and even 
out the "hollowing damage" and enough to fill old holes

- drill & tap new screw holes in new plate to match spreader base
- reinstall spreader bases

Tips:
- Don't worry. Be Happy
- The spreader base deformation likely happened during fabrication. 
It looks typical of stainless steel "pulling" in high heat situations

- You are correct in assuming the stout bolt does almost all the work
- I might throw a couple of rivets into the new plate to feel 
better... just don't put 3 holes the same size in a row close 
together (including the screws) as that can propagate into a crack a 
few years down the road.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 03:30 PM 9/25/2018, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Michael,

Yes - a stout bolt with both ends threaded, and a stout nut threaded 
on inside each spreader bracket tube.  I believe those nuts and bolt 
are what keep the windward spreader bracket from pulling off the 
mast due to tension from the windward lower shroud (the four screws 
on the bracket plate probably aren't strong enough alone).


Cheers,
Randy

On Sep 25, 2018, at 11:18 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2018 10:44:23 -0600
From: Randy Stafford 
<randal.staff...@icloud.com>


Subject: Re: Stus-List Tree Trimming


Thank you all for your replies and suggestions, some of which were off-list.

Responding to points in the order received:

1. "Is it safe to sate that the main mast damage is from the screws 
ripping out of the mast itself??
The main mast damage IMO is the indentation from the aft edge of 
the spreader bracket plate.  The screw holes are also damaged, but fixable.




Hi Randy,

  did the spreader brackets have a large bolt going through them 
and across inside the mast?

I believe mine does and assumed it was handling most of the load.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Actual Drive

2018-10-29 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I'm thinking it will be more like 5 & a half foot 
draft if floating in heavy water.


He might be floating in alcohol when checking the 
measurement. Not unlikely... being sailors and all. :)


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1


At 10:23 AM 10/29/2018, you wrote:


The boat was designed with a depth of 6-5 inches in salt water.
If it were floating in fresh water it would sink 
.3, so the draft would be 6-5-1/2

It takes 875 pounds to sink the boat one inch.
So if there is double that added since building, 
then the draft would be 6-5 plus .3 plus 2 . . .

Total 6-7-1/2
Hard to believe 6-10  but maybe it was floating in heavy water . . .


Cheers,

Rob Ball
Chief Design Engineer  Tel 508-995-9711

http://www.edsonintl.com/signature/image001.gif


Edson International
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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

2018-11-03 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Thanks Josh. Nice set o' links (filed for future reference).

Whenever I buy oil filters I ask the parts
counter guy, "What have you got that isn't Fram"

I like Mann and Baldwin as good replacements.
Amsoil isn't common in Western Canada.

Interestingly, you do not get cleaner oil by
changing a filter frequently. The old one works
really well right up until it the media gets saturated. :)

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:25 AM 11/3/2018, you wrote:
I've cut apart quite a few different filters
from various manufacturers.Â Most of the high
end filters are just slightly different from one
another.Â Consistently favorable qualities are:

High density synthetic filter media
Silicone gaskets and anti-drain back
Metal media cap
Coil spring for bypass device
Thicker can and base plate.

Some of these features are hard to identify
without an autopsy.Â But you know it when you see it.

Cheap filters tend to have
Low density paper media and glued on paper end caps
Leaf spring bypass
Rubber components
Thin can materials

I have had good luck with Amsoil, and Purolator
Pur1 filters.Â There are lots of other good
ones and lots of bad, but Fram does stand out as
being on the bad side.Â You have 6
opportunities to do a dissection Paul, let us know what you find.

Manufacturers that provide their own
specifications make shopping easier.Â I like to
find thread and gasket dimensions and then
search for the largest possible filter that will
still fit the allowed space.Â I also compare filter media dimensions.

Wix, Donaldson, Amsoil all have online
references which help you to cross reference and find the best solution.

Filter comparison article:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GWN2wLUqfJ8QbUdxd1z8Jo2L24V2RVQIXLxN0ASuiXxe7ydOlpi8QCpiliBaQa2u449_fyFXE2LXfU8U/view?usp=drivesdk

Yanmar filter for QH, HM, GM, YM series engines
including Yanmar cross-references and dimensions.Â

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WY-pDhUDtrCXF_4p2grjp_wBiNDq3y6YDQvZ-UGLZHlReYRL1b6BFY-q_-OC2Wyl0GSm_adnVOQl-x7J/view?usp=drivesdk

The Fleetguard Â FL3812 cross references to a Amsoil EA15K20.
https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/MasterFilterCrossRef.aspx

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?Code=EA15K20

Â Looking at the spec chart you could probably
gain a little volume/filter media square inches by moving to a EA15K13

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yk6IzUYWWzaPy2DDNRx5Ak5wyM0PB5TL/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 11:59 AM Morgan Ellis via
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I agree with Andrew on this one. In the past I
was have issues with race engine and was
changing filters often and cutting them open to
try to identify where the wear was coming from.
In doing this we cut open several different
makes of filter. Fran were the absolute worst!
Since then I only buy Donaldson filters, as they
were head and shoulders above all others in
terms of construction and quality inside.

Morgan Ellis
SV MeandherÂ
30MkII
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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

2018-11-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Adam,

At the risk of being too honest and taking your request for any 
feedback at face value... please, please do not do such a horrible 
thing as to add corian countertops to a C&C.


If you are serious about going that route then may I suggest a 
Beneteau, Hunter or Catalina as a viable candidate. Then I will offer 
no objection at all.


Best regards, Russ
exSweet 35 mk-1


At 03:03 PM 11/30/2018, you wrote:


I am wondering if anyone has changed out their galley countertops 
for more modern products such as corian or other hard surface.  I am 
not so much concerned about the excess weight as we do mostly cruising.
We are also very diligent about store ng fear when sailing so I even 
question the need for the fiddles.


I just think it would modernize the interior and please the admiral.

Any feedback ior suggestions is appreciated.

Adam Hayden
C&C 36
state of bliss.
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Re: Stus-List Galley and NAV station counters

2018-12-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Ron,

Your laminate update is exactly the right thing to do.

Simple, cost effective and no extra weight. Not at all like replacing 
a functional top with a few slabs of polished rock or something that 
looks like it belongs in a condo.


I admit to being a bit opinionated around yachts and hate to see a 
good sailing yacht such as the "36" getting something similar to a 3 
blade (fixed) prop. A man should gently bring the Admiral up to speed 
on the care and concerns of the yacht, then take her out for dinner, 
instead of pandering to a whim.


On Amazing Grace the C&C cruising boats were known as the "Landfill 
series".  Just for fun & chuckles mind you. Not intending to hurt 
anybody's feelings. :)


Cheers, Russ
exSweet  35 mk-1

At 06:54 AM 12/1/2018, you wrote:
Hi Adamdo not listen to those C&C'rs who say that the dark cave 
is a good place to bethe dark ages are over

...
I redid the countertops on my 38MKII '77 vintage a year ago...

What a differencethe whole interior feels much bigger than before
We used simple laminate in white and it is amazing...
Used the savings from the counter top to replace the sink with a new 
single bowlanother great decision.


Definitely go for itremembera happy Admiral is a happy life.
Ron C.
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Re: Stus-List Landfill series

2018-12-01 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List





Hi Bill,

I didn't think so. The 36 that I was on is a very nice boat to sail, 
as you expect of a C&C.


And there isn't one listed on Stu's site.
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/brochuresndx.htm

Anyone with a brochure out there?

Cheers, Russ



At 11:37 AM 12/1/2018, you wrote:


So Russ,
   Is the 36 considered a landfill series?

Bill Walker
_



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Re: Stus-List Heavy storms on the West Coast

2018-12-25 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Marek,

Thanks for your concern. And Merry Christmas to all, a turkey is 
roasting as I write.


A wee Nanaimo update:
check out this power outage map:
https://www.bchydro.com/power-outages/app/outage-map.html
(click on the red dots at the bottom of Vancouver Island to zoom in)

There are still many islands and areas without power. Comparing this 
map to the day of the storm, on the day it was much more red than 
clear. Only the old part of town had power.  It is amazing that so 
much power has been restored. We drove to Victoria the day after the 
storm and there were no traffic lights for 70 kms. The normally 1 1/2 
drive took 2 1/2 hours.


Our yacht club, NYC (Nanaimo Yacht Club) came away with relatively 
little damage even though there were high tides increased a bit by 
the storm.  Many houses suffered from fallen tree damage. It was a 
horrible time to be ashore eh. :)


Predictably the main stream media used the event to push global 
warming agenda like a Southern Baptist preacher casting accusations of sin.
So I got to thinking, "but it's an El Nino year." I first learned 
about El Nino at the Galapagos Islands in 1983, talking with the Port 
Captain about the odd weather pattern (not at all like the Pilot 
charts).  He simply said it was El Nino, about every 7 years.


1983 to present is 35 years or roughly 5 El Nino cycles. So that part 
fits. The last El Nino produced a storm during Southern Straits Race 
that topped 55 knot winds. A bit rough alright, the skipper cancelled 
our participation so we storm-watched from Parksville beach motel.


So this area gets severe storms, yup. The book, Keepers of the Lights 
includes a story of a cow getting blown off Triangle Island in a 
winter storm. Obviously not a foredeck cow, they have a good grip.. 
probably a grinder. :)


I think the extraordinary tree damage is prevalent due to at least a 
few factors, heavy rain the past two weeks saturates the dirt making 
it very soft, the forest is now mature second growth so the trees are 
twice as big as they were 35 years ago (more inclined to fall over) 
and there are simply more people on the east coast of Vancouver 
Island so the chances of a tree actually hitting something important 
is much higher.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1











At 09:07 PM 12/21/2018, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;

boundary="_000_SN6PR11MB2941FD655B5CC4F97F14F4B0CEB90SN6PR11MB2941namp_"

There were some severe storms reported on the West Coast (around 
Vancouver/Seattle). Not hurricanes, but sustained winds in the 60+ 
kt. The worst hit (at least in Canada) was Nanaimo and there was 
also heavy damage in White Rock, BC. The national news was showing a 
pier destroyed by the storm - several sailboats broke off their 
moorings and banged against the pier until it broke (not a pretty 
picture). Also, a number of boats ended on the beach, one of them 
looking very much like a C&C (30?).


Not an event you want to experience any time, but even more so 
around Christmas.


I hope nobody we know suffered any serious damage.

Marek
Ottawa, ON


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Re: Stus-List yanmar 2gmf in 29-2

2018-12-26 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List




Hi Bev,

I had a leak at the bleed screw gasket on a filter top. Being the 
filter between lift pump & injector pump.


I verified the location by putting little wraps of paper towel around 
the system connections. The leak quickly discolours the paper towel, 
even before you can smell it.


Cheers, Russ
ex - 35 mk-1

At 12:34 PM 12/26/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_Part_2793283_850607002.1545856449296"
Content-Length: 797

I knew I had a fuel leak. Thought it was the lift pump so replaced 
it. Still the problem persists somewhere. Is there an obvious place 
to start looking?

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

2019-01-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Shawn,

The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.

Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, 
water maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for 
short-handed cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't be 
moved aft (not practical with the furler on it). The dodger is okay 
and most coastal cruiser like them. I don't as a personal preference 
(mostly 'cause they're ugly and impair good visibility while sailing.


No stability issues with any of that, or the big honking anchor on 
the bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)


The older marinized VW diesels are known for cracked head issues but 
since it is only operating at 50% load at max (check the prop size) 
it likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer at the head, but continuos 
running at low load can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve 
problems).


For a well found cruiser that appears ready to go I think $30 grand 
is a bargain.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1






At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am 
curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability 
for coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver 
Island. Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:


Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).

The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178

Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.

Thanks

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

2019-01-04 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Steve,

Are you on the West Coast?

Cheers, Russ

At 04:47 PM 1/4/2019, you wrote:
I like the MKII and I love C&Cs as much as any 
on this list, but he's not going to get 30k for 
that boat. I wouldn't pay 20k for that boat based on that ad.Â
It's listed since the summer and it's not sold, 
it's now winter. Private seller? How many times 
do you think he wants to show that boat?Â


"Contact me for more details and photos." - <-- 
that right there is a non-starter for me.Â


He thinks he's going to save time answering the 
same inquiries over and over again? Not likely. 
He's waiting for a buyer that doesn't know what 
questions to ask. That ad is missing a tonne of 
detail and to me, that's a clear indication of a 
time waster. I think people sell boats privately 
because they don't like the things they hear 
from brokers, namely, the market price of their 45 year old boat.Â


My opinion is worth what you paid for it and no 
offence intended for anyone on this list. I've 
been around this block a couple of times now, on both ends.Â


Look at broker boats, if you haven't already. I 
would forego the luxuries entirely with your 
budget and focus on an updated motor, rigging, a 
dry deck and solid mast step. If you can get a 
35 mkII with the above and no other "frills", I 
would call that a good deal at 25k. Solar, 
batteries and cruising niceties can be added as 
you go, and then you get new stuff, that you 
know how to maintain. The boat in the ad is a 
project boat. If it weren't, he'd be bragging 
about all the hoses he replaced and how new the 
 the? See my point? 45 year old rod rigging 
on salt water? Marinized VW in a C&C? That's a 
replacement motor, last I checked C&C wasn't 
putting VWs in their boats. This owner didn't 
put in a Beta, or a Yanmar - he put in a used, 
marinized VW. He doesn't want to pay commission. 
Too many warning signs for my tastes.Â


But it's got a water maker! never mind that noise

I like the MKII. I hope you find one, and that it serves you well.
Fair winds.Â
Steve


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:39 PM Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since 
the summer, and he seems to be dropping the 
price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a 
bit beyond my budget, and moorage will cost a 
bit more than the 30' boats I've been looking at.


I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own 
two, and have had many since the 80s. Not sure 
how access is since the engine is larger than 
the A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 
2-3 cyl Yanmar, although tuning the IP might 
help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure 
how they fare in this application - the blocks 
are bulletproof, but not sure about the marine 
components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump 
etc. Sounds like it may be a custom job also, so 
if parts are non-standard that could be an issue.Â


I'll probably arrange to see it, and report 
back. I'm just trying to get the most solid boat 
I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't 
have what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for 
winter is one), or have a bunch of stuff I don't 
need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow 
for additional costs to add things.Â




On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Shawn,

The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.

Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising 
with solar panels, water maker and Solent jib. 
The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed 
cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it 
can't be moved aft (not practical with the 
furler on it). The dodger is okay and most 
coastal cruiser like them. I don't as a personal 
preference (mostly 'cause they're ugly and 
impair good visibility while sailing.


No stability issues with any of that, or the big 
honking anchor on the bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)


The older marinized VW diesels are known for 
cracked head issues but since it is only 
operating at 50% load at max (check the prop 
size) it likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer 
at the head, but continuos running at low load 
can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve problems).


For a well found cruiser that appears ready to 
go I think $30 grand is a bargain.


Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Cheers, Russ
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1






At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several 
modifications, and I am curious about how they 
might affect the boat in terms of suitability 
for coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a 
trip around Vancouver Island. Perhaps some here 
are famili

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

2019-01-11 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Shawn,

Thanks for the update on Calisto. I almost went 
down to Esquimalt for a look, but better sense got ahold of me.


You see, I sold my beloved 35 mk-1, Sweet, last 
summer because of a cruising boat project sitting 
in my yard. It is no good owning 2 boats. I have done that three times now.
And I have a '83 Westy with the original 1.9 lt 
waterboxer engine @ 400,000 km that I need to 
pull apart for a look some time (before it gives me trouble).


I guess last summer you couldn't give a boat 
away. I let Sweet go for $22k and she was in 
sail-away condition with a perfect Storch Sails 
tri-radial main, furling, refrig, diesel w 
feathering prop, leather upholstery and looked great.
A 30 mk-1 at my Club in perfect condition went 
for $10k. The old guy hardly ever sailed the 
boat, maybe twice a year, but spent hours each 
weekend puttering around on things like varnish and trinkets.


There is another 30 mk-1 at the Club that was for 
sale last year that I can ask about the next time 
I'm there. I know of a Peterson 39 but it is a little more than $30k.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1

P.S. the cruising boat in the yard is a William 
Atkins design, Margery Daw. It is worlds away from a C&C design.


At 09:12 AM 1/10/2019, you wrote:
Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, 
starting with a solid hull/deck/rig and a sound 
design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat 
with all of these factors - they are usually 
deficient in one or more areas, with sails being 
the most common. The last two boats I looked at 
were mainly motored, so sails were original and 
they had no furlers. In fact, nearly all the 
boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ 
year old sails. The C&C 37 had a brand new 
racing main and about 8 other sails, but the 
boat was a mess. Around here, winds are very 
light and fickle in the summer, when most people 
cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless 
they venture beyond the inside passage.


It's a shame the C&C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as 
it was the first boat I looked at in July, in 
really nice conditon, and I could have got it 
for $8K and been sailing already. But it had a 
wheel, and was really tight in the cockpit as a 
result, and the idea of a very tender boat 
doesn't thrill me after sailing a friend's MacGregor.Â


I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 
4 in a Westfalia for 20 years), but we will need 
space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on 
rainy days, and to also sail/motor in rough 
conditions in reasonable comfort. Anything 27'+ 
has what we need usually, so it's just a matter 
of getting a solid boat with decent engine, 
sails and no major flaws that I can't fix easily 
fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the 
price is right; in fact I would prefer it, as I 
have lots of time, being retired. I am not 
afraid of engine work, so a rebuild doesn't 
scare me, but the price would have to reflect the amount of work needed.


Thanks for all the tips!
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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Washers

2019-01-17 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Josh,

316L S/S is better than 316 for welding 
applications. The L (low carbon) helps prevent 
rust stains at the weld interface.


304 and even duplex S/S (2205, sometimes called 
18-8) will be fine for keelbolt washers if it is all that is available.


Cheers, Russ


At 08:09 AM 1/15/2019, you wrote:

Dan,Â

Mine came with SS washers.Â  You can most likely 
find them on McMaster-Carr or just make them out 
of SS sheet.Â  If I was making them I'd just cut 
them square.Â  You'll probably want no less than 
3/32".Â  There is nothing wrong with anything 
thicker.Â  Youâll find cutting SS is a 
challenge.Â  A machine shop can make these quick 
and easy.Â  When sourcing SS look for at least 316. Â 316L is even better.


You can make a backing plate with G-10 or FRP 
(also available on McMaster Carr).Â  I would use 
at least 1/4" and probably opt for 1/2".


It is quite frequent for owners to find that the 
"foundation" is not flat or square to the 
stud.Â  You can fix this by bedding the backing 
plates with thickened epoxy (Six10).Â  It is 
short sighted to allow the epoxy to bond the 
keel bolt in place.Â  Prevent this by using a 
FRP tube cut to act as a protective 
sleeve.Â  The sleeve should slide loose on the 
stud and tightly in the FPR backing 
plate.Â  Tighten the nut only enough to smoosh 
the leveling agent (thickened epoxy) out a 
little.Â  Let the epoxy cure and then torque the bolts as appropriate.


https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass-hollow-rods

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



On Tue, Jan 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi All, I knowÂ  this has been discussed many 
times here but this is a quick and simple one.


I'm going to be torquing my keel bolts this 
spring and I've noticed that the washers/spacers 
under some of the nuts are coroding and need to 
be replaced. I'd like to change them out for Stainless Steel.


What do you guys have for keel bolt 
washers/spacers and how did you get them made?


Thanks!

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

2019-01-19 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Josh,

Just for fun I dug out an old textbook and 
estimate that a 1 1/4" through-hull opening about 
3' and a bit below the waterline will allow 100-120 gpm into the boat.


The Rule 1200 gph hour is probably a lot less 
after discharge head and hoses losses are calculated into it.


If anyone is really worried about emergency pump 
I suggest a nice little gas powered pump. Of 
course it probably will refuse to start when you need it! :)


Cheers, Russ



At 12:23 PM 1/15/2019, you wrote:



I'm preferential to a float type auto switch 
wired in parallel with the manual switch.Â  My 
auto float switch is mounted above the pump and 
only turns on when a considerable amount of 
water accumulates.Â  Under normal conditions I 
manually pump the bilge down and the float just 
catches it when I've abandoned the boat for weeks on end.


I have a check valve.Â  There I said it.Â  In a 
perfect I world have a very high capacity 
"emergency" pump and associated auto float 
mounted just above the float for the lower 
"normal" pump.Â  The emergency pump would not 
have a check valve.Â  It would have a high loop 
to avoid a siphon but nothing to prevent 
backflow.Â  It would also be as short and 
straight of a run as possible to the 
discharge.Â  In this way I could ensure the 
emergency reliability and capacity of an 
emergency bilge pump by keeping it dry and 
rarely using it.Â  I would retain the normal 
bilge pump's ability to pump the bilge to its 
lowest reasonable level.Â  Both would work automatically and manually.


The pump I have is 1200 gph (20 gpm) or 4 x 5 
gallon buckets per minute - more flow than I can 
move manually but not much.Â  Once, I 
accidentally left the transducer plugs out when 
launching the boat.Â  We discovered the 
situation before water got to the floor boards 
but not before a considerable amount of water 
had made it in.Â  Once the situation was 
corrected the bilge pump continued to run for 
what seemed like the better part of 5 
minutes.Â  The point being, 1200gph sounds 
big... It isn't.Â  If I had a shaft seal that 
failed, the pump almost certainly would not have 
kept up and that is the least catastrophic emergency I can think of.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ




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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

2019-01-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Shawn,

I used OpenCPN and Nobeltec quite a fews ago on the West Coast cruise.

Main charts were NDI (digital ocean) and Nobeltec vr4. I did say old.
I also had C-map 93, more for entertainment and back-up. Ran them on 
two XP machines, a Dell & ThinkPad.


There is an OpenCPN chart download here:

http://opennauticalchart.org/

Mostly for entertainment as not all the marks in our area as show... 
nothing in Sooke Harbour and missing a key one in Nanaimo Harbour.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1


At 06:56 PM 1/19/2019, you wrote:
I'm trying out OpenCPN on my laptop and Android tablet, but can't 
find a source for Canadian charts. Has anyone had luck using OpenCPN 
in Canadian waters (west coast)?


For this asking about using Android tablets offline for navigation, 
I have had no issues travelling with several Android phones and 
tablets in many countries (Japan, Central America, US and Canada) 
without cell or wifi service, either by downloading Google offline 
maps in advance, or using another offline map app. The app contains 
the offline map/chart data, and the phone/tablet merely need to 
obtain a GPS fix, which does not require either cellular data or wifi.
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Prop Pitch for Universal 35

2019-01-20 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Chuck,

I had a similar situation with my old cruising 
cutter with a Gori folding prop. At expected RPM 
the cruising speed was ugly and the engine 
chugged along like there was no load. Even worse, 
in a marina I learn to go full speed in reverse just to get a wee bite.


In my investigation I found the prop's 18 x 12 
expected performance was suitable for a 2:1 
transmission. The installed tranny was a 3:1, 
which is great for efficiency and performance but 
only if the prop is sized right. I think it was 
mistake when ordered (like 10 years earlier) but that is a whole 'nother story.


Do you know what degree pitch the current setting 
is? I have a vague recollection a Max prop should 
be around 14 degree for a 2:1 gearbox and hull 
speed in the 6.5 - 7 knot range.  But don't quote 
me.. the last one I set up was maybe 4 years ago.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet , 35 mk-1


At 09:15 AM 1/20/2019, you wrote:
I have a MaxProp classic, and a Universal 35 on 
Daydream.Â  The prop pitch appears very shallow, 
and when motoring, seems to be slow. (from 
memory of last September, 4.5 knots@ 2300rpms)


Any 37+ owners have this combination of prop and 
engine, and happen to know the correct pitch for the MaxProp prop?


And cheers from the Michigan Fridge...-12 in the UP this morning!!


Chuck Saur

(517)-490-5926
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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

2019-01-24 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you 
surmise, chain stop bolt riding past the limit. 
Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too 
when it rode up on the sprocket. I expect it was 
an single event while backing down and the person 
lost control of the wheel. There is enough 
momentum there to put the wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage.


Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without 
removing the sprocket. Trying to get that 
sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster. 
Reassemble exactly as before, as the damaged 
teeth are not in the normally loaded area anyhow.


Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1





At 12:50 PM 1/23/2019, you wrote:
Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system 
yesterday for a lng overdue maintenance 
session.Â  As in it's never been done in 47 
years!Â  Touche's steering system is by Morch.


If you haven't checked your steering system, 
maybe this will inspire you to do so.


Concern 2.Â  Some of the teeth on the chain 
sprocket were damaged.Â  This was a complete surprise.
   * This was apparently caused by the way 
C&C/Morch made stops to limit the travel of the 
rudder.Â  They put a bolt at each end of the 
chain. The bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit.
   * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts 
through the links of the chain 
here:Â 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf


Next steps.Â Â
   * The sprocket.Â  H.Â  The chain makes a 
full 180 degree wrap over the sprocket.Â  I 
believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth 
that will work.Â  On the other hand, I could 
try to get the sprocket off the shaft and have 
a machine shop make a new one.Â  I think that 
would be a risky option.Â  First, I'm not sure 
how I would remove the sprocket.Â  It has set 
screws 
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi).Â 
I removed a small one on the sprocket and a 
larger one on a collar adjacent to it.Â  I 
suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.Â  It 
showed no signs of moving.Â  There are some 
inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but 
again, they all have risk.Â  Then there's the 
issue of the bearings.Â  If I muck up the bearings, I'm screwed.Â Â
   * Give some thought to a better way to stop 
the wheel at the travel limits.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system rebuild - update 1

2019-01-29 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



Hi Dennis,

I had hull #111, 1972 and the rudder log support 
arrangement is just like that shown for Touch


é

including the three short plywood exposed gussets and grey paint.  :)

Okay, I changed the water-pump grease cup to an 
industrial style spring loaded unit for auto feed.


The "Red & White" aft cockpit scupper valves are 
evil, in my humble consideration (photo 
DSCF0042.jpg). The valve stem will d'zinc-ti-fy 
in salt water and break when you try to close it. 
To check it, take the valve apart and see if the 
valve stem is showing pink. Pink is bad in this case.


I had good intentions to equip Sweet with a 
rudder stop configuration but never got around to 
it ( 'round tuit ). Part of the justification on 
procrastination was recognizing the only two 
times you need rudder stop on these boats is being hove-to or backing down.


So I became very vigilant for the helmsman to 
hold firm, okay a nag, if the Admiral was backing 
down and we also sailed instead of heaving-to... 
entirely practical for our area.


At one time I thought about putting nylon 
pendants from 'rib structure" to each side of 
quadrant to limit movement but never got around to verifying if practical.


Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1


At 12:14 PM 1/29/2019, you wrote:


My hull number, in the photos, is #202, July '73.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/29/2019 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Yep.Â  I wonder what hull number they made the 
design change?Â  touche' is #83.


Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Dennis,

Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028. "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

The original post is below.

My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts 
for stripping and painting with 
AwlGrip.Â  Aircraft stripper does indeed 
remove powder coat.Â Â 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g


A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire 
rope cable for me.Â  The fitting on the end of 
the cable that attaches to the chain is 
apparently called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or aircraft eye.


There seems to be a major change in the rudder 
stop design.Â  Touche' is Hull 83.


Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what 
a rudder stop should look like.Â  Note the 
strong vertical structural member with 
gussets.Â  The two plates mounted to the 
bottom of the quadrant stop against aluminum 
plates with rubber cushions on either side of the vertical structural member.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr

Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube:Â Â

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h

One other difference is that Touche's quadrant 
is installed upside down from the one on Russ' 
boat.Â  Go figure.Â  That doesn't seem to be a 
big deal.Â  The plates will just have to be mounted on the top of the quadrant.


I am going to have to install a vertical 
structural member.Â  Still finalizing the 
design but it will be similar to Russ' 
boat.Â  Going to be very uncomfortable working in there.Â Â


I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine 
ply together with the middle piece shorter so 
the thing slips down over the existing rudder 
post gusset.Â  I can then through bolt it in 
place and then tab it to the hull.Â  I will 
probably also make it with the athwartships 
gussets in place so all I need do is tab them 
to the hull.Â  The gussets are extremely 
important due to the side loading of the 
stops.Â  The more I do outside the space the easier it will be.


I won't start the job until March after I 
return from skiing.Â  I'll document the process and provide a link.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

2019-01-30 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List


Hi Dan,

Only ease the backstay a little bit. The normal shroud tension is okay.

Cheers, Russ


At 05:40 AM 1/30/2019, you wrote:
Actually, this is only the backing plate in the photo. At a second 
glance that last bolt and the plate itself does look rusty. The 
chainplate is on the other side and I won't know how it looks until 
I've removed it. I'll be sure to check it over thoroughly and 
replace if necessary. I'm not too woried if the backing plate has 
pits or cracks - it won't be under the same stresses as the chainplate itself.


I do have one big question - If I want to remove the headstay at 
dock like this, can I just secure it down to the toe rail with lines 
then remove the attachments? Should I be letting off all of the 
stays to do this?


Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

2019-02-09 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List



I've always wondered why there is an insistence amongst some East 
Coast members to retorque keel-bolts on the hard.


On the Left Coast the boats are out of the water for only a day or 
three and it seems too valuable to do something as mundane as 
resetting keel nuts!


check the chart:
https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/torque_vs_tension_bolts_13355.htm
one bolt will hold at least three or more keels to the bottom.

Has there been bad experience torgue'ng keelbolts while floating?

Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1



At 11:00 AM 2/7/2019, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_26b9b433ef9c44e2a3bbced895c96553NSCDAG306baadssagov_"

Even more so when you loosen them!


You asked if there was anything you were missing.  A critical step 
is to be on the hard when you torque the bolts.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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