Re: Stus-List Rudder repair?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Listen to James.  His advice is sound.  Don't let the insurance company
push you around.  You want the boat back to where it was before the
grounding, and heating and straightening won't bring it back to the way it
was.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:57 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dave
> I have a C 29 Mk2 where the previous owner had hit rocks hard and tore
> the bottom 10 inches off the rudder and bent the rudder post backward and
> to port.  There was also some damage to the bottom of the keel.   I
> replaced the bent rudder shaft with a new one made from 316 stainless as
> part of a rudder rebuild.  Stainless work hardens if bent and while it can
> be straightened you are essentially cold working it again to go the other
> way to straighten and I would be concerned with cracking and overall loss
> of strength.  If you added the required amount of heat to try to anneal to
> compensate you would like damage the fiberglass rudder and foam core as the
> anneal temperature for stainless is high.  If you are operating in a salt
> water environment it is also more severe and higher risk of stress
> corrosion cracking and thus the reason 316 stainless is used vs 304 in
> marine applications.   Marine engineers designed the rudder post to bend if
> hit hard enough once and thus not rip open the bottom of your boat. I'm not
> sure they intended it to get straightened and take the same hit a second
> time and not break off completely or worse.  My recommendation is get a new
> rudder, or at minimum get a new post and have the rudder rebuilt as there
> is likely more damage you don't see inside or at least the foam core had
> been compromised by water getting in which was the case with my rudder.
>  Good luck.
>
> James
> C 29 Mk 2, White Magic. SN 001
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 30, 2018, at 3:42 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David
>
> If your insurance company is pushing for the repair vs replacement, ask
> them if they will guarantee the repair and any subsequent damages.
>
> Ed Levert
> C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans, La
>
> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:35 PM John Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> David Who is doing the repairs and what experience do they have? Suggest
>> you call a reputable surveyor ,some other repair yards and of course to get
>> the real answer Nick at Fort Rachel. Best John Read
>>
>>
>> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>>
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com
>> Sent: 2018-07-30 11:50:47 AM
>> Subject: Stus-List Rudder repair?
>>
>> I have a decision to make on repairing the rudder on my boat after it was
>> damaged in a grounding on a reef.  The shaft is bent and they are proposing
>> to straighten the shaft and then repair the fiberglass.  It was described
>> to me by the surveyor as a common process and no big deal.  He said they
>> used heat and hydraulics to do it while the shaft is still attached to the
>> rudder.  He described one done recently on a Nonesuch as bent worse than
>> mine and came out fine.  I have been looking into having a replacement
>> built, but that is going to take more time and money to do, so I am
>> wondering what the experience and wisdom of the group is on the issue of
>> repair.  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List ST4000+ Mechanical Problem

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Thanks, Tim and Neil for your help addressing my wheel pilot problem.
Neil's manual was the correct one for the 4000+.  My actuator didn't have
the ball bearings that Tim described.  Once I got the actuator off the
wheel and opened it, I found a bad belt.. A new belt from eBay for $22
fixed the problem.  With the new belt, the clutch lever no longer pops out
of gear, a problem that has bothered me for years.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 4:54 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone on the list taken the Wheel Pilot Actuator apart? On the way to
> the starting line last week, the steering was catching on something inside
> the Wheel Pilot Actuator,  I opted to not race for fear that the steering
> would lock up during the race.  Previous to this happening, the clutch
> lever would pop out occasionally.  Is there a clutch adjustment, that might
> solve both problems? According to the Raymarine Forum, this unit is no
> longer serviced by Raymarine.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have a; manual pump which I can operate from the cockpit, and another one
that's mounted in the cabin that I can operate from inside the closed cabin.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland OR


On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 12:55 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> I have 2 manual Whale pumps and several feed buckets for emergencies.  One
> Whale is mounted, one is on a board with a long intake hose so it can be
> operated from the cockpit once it is primed.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 12:56 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Several weeks ago I read about an emergency and rescue of a couple about
>> 150nm off northern California.  Among the multitude of issues (leading to
>> catastrophic results) was a companionway breach by waves.  The inlet to the
>> bilge pump hose had clogged from cabin debris resulting in another issue
>> (multitudes!).  Since safety includes operational redundancy, does anyone
>> make a practice of installing a smaller battery in a watertight but
>> ventilated compartment to operate a secondary pump with clog proof
>> screening?
>>
>> Bill Dakin
>> S/V Tapestry
>> 25-2
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Photo Album

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The site appears to be down.  I sent a message to Stu.


Alan Bergen


On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 12:54 PM, jason shoemake via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
> Can anyone say what may be going on with the photo album?
> I can’t seem to connect to it from old saved links, a new search, or any
> other way. All my devices return “cannot find page”. I’ve been to the site
> LOTS of times. Just wanted to do research on a few things.
> Possibly post a link and try that.
> Cheers,
> Jason
> C 29 MK I
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List got my shirt

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Let us know whether there is any shrinkage after you wash them.  Remember
to turn them inside out, to prevent the graphics from wearing off in the
washer and dryer.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Jul 17, 2018 at 9:31 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It is well worth the $15 J
>
> I am going to buy 4 more and get the free boat name.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina 35 MK I
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Stus-List Fwd: Shop our 2-day Flash Sale. Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the 17th!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

For anyone who has been thinking about installing Raymarine instruments,
they're having a flash sale until midnight tomorrow.  Looks like some good
buys.

Alan Bergen


-- Forwarded message --
From: Raymarine 
Date: Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:35 AM
Subject: Shop our 2-day Flash Sale. Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the
17th!
To: trya...@alumni.usc.edu


Check out the Raymarine Flash Sale - HUGE SAVINGS!
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Shop our 2-day Flash Sale.
Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the 17th!

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WAS $1,199.00
NOW ONLY $599.99!
(+ FREE TRANSDUCER)
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Re: Stus-List C clothing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Let us know how well it fits after it's been washed.  Any shrinkage?

Alan


On Thu, Jul 12, 2018 at 9:43 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> received my 37 nice shirt i am 6’2” XL fits quite well nice look, with
> some room for shrikage
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
> 
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The clicking sound is the solenoid.  It means that the push button is
working, but the contacts on the solenoid may be bad.  You can easily check
the push button switch by shorting it out with a screw driver.   You can
check the starter, with the switch on, by shorting out the solenoid.

I recently replaced the push button and the key switch on my boat with an
automotive style key switch.  The push button didn't always work until I
pushed it several times.  Now I just turn the key to on, and turn it a
little more to start the engine.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 6:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar
> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is
> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the
> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over
> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are
> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or
> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the
> fix?
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

How does it attach to the boom?

Alan


On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 10:10 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> The stack is new and those racing photos are from a few years back, but,
> depending on the stack you buy, it is fully removable if you want to race
> the boat.
>
> Mine will unzip and slide off in a matter of seconds, plus it can also be
> lowered and attached to the boom if I don’t want to remove it, but want
> completely off the sail.
>
> Should have done it years ago.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__enterpriseb.blogspot.com_=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=I4ffiF95ndFUBH2jImJkXxJ16Cgm14NHLNweuGFadn8=qEN38wVjMprikCneIXFvUqRG1NKJ391ogDncFazk0Ls=>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 9, 2018, at 1:06 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Edd:
>
> Some of your pictures show the Stack Pack, but in the racing pictures it's
> not there.  Is the pack easily removable for racing? I have a loose footed
> main.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
>> Schillay via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* July-09-18 8:11 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Edd Schillay
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>> Chuck,
>>
>>
>>
>> While I can’t comment on the winged-keel version specifically, I’ve had
>> my 1990 C 37+ for 13 years now (the Enterprise-A was a 1978 C 34) and
>> can’t say enough about how wonderful a boat it is.
>>
>>
>>
>> SAILING
>>
>> She’s responsive, points well and can handle heavier wind and chop better
>> than pretty much any other boat in her class. For cruising, I find the 135%
>> jib to be perfect in just about every wind range - never overpowered and
>> can easily hit 7.2 knots (or, as we say on my boat, Warp 7.2) on the jib
>> alone (Pic
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__3.bp.blogspot.com_-2D-5FpUcUZefrfY_UG2byO27YdI_Blk_VKt3WcYZ9Mw_s1600_Day1Sailing.jpg=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dKAkruVGSO5wBUQoOn4R8Q6qbo7cWs2KggnErflJR9c=WQmAWS_HPlrmfc8w3cwQoz67lQ8MFnGoLeiHRY7c_xU=>).
>> Once you get the boat, if it doesn’t already have one, I would suggest
>> installing a “Stack Pack” system for the main (Pic1
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__1.bp.blogspot.com_-2D-2Drq4wL9px58_WzKrXnRU01I_CkY_EXHBCCqq2VYx1quwGz6VDIPiAzbczsIBACLcBGAs_s1600_IMG-5F1799.jpg=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dKAkruVGSO5wBUQoOn4R8Q6qbo7cWs2KggnErflJR9c=LfV0LVDnyqFeFlHAC6sdNar-2eW4-Tngwelh6Ai2jJY=>
>>  | Pic 2
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__4.bp.blogspot.com_-2D33ZcliySMzU_WzKrX6K-5FjeI_Ckc_P5owuAsTLfQxP0NMz-2D5Qn5h7UR-2DodJVwQCLcBGAs_s1600_IMG-5F1800.jpg=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dKAkruVGSO5wBUQoOn4R8Q6qbo7cWs2KggnErflJR9c=buSNaq333v4kiDQCsjW8GRj8x6cnYkcCFSI7f2Uq9Xw=>)
>> as, without one, getting the main up or down, especially in a breeze, can
>> be a multi-person job between the flaking and sail ties (Pic
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__1.bp.blogspot.com_-2D4EYiOA4Hduw_UmPsvAdxjvI_CDI_yUNXs-2Dg6U3Q_s1600_sailsdown.JPG=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dKAkruVGSO5wBUQoOn4R8Q6qbo7cWs2KggnErflJR9c=pz05sSNB6YBkLPioOQaJNq7ozBUrtfBR90kKB4OaYjo=>
>> ).
>>
>>
>>
>> ACCOMODATIONS
>>
>> She is simply a cruiser’s dream. The biggest complaint I’ve heard about
>> monohulls is that it feels like you’re in a basement. Not true with the
>> 37/40 series. It’s light, airy and very comfortable. The V-berth forward
>> cabin in spacious with LOTS of storage, the main cabin bright, has great
>> ventilation, and between the starboard-side u-shaped seating (Pic
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.dropbox.com_s_spvg3fycdx4191r_IMG-5F0810.JPG-3Fdl-3D0=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=dKAkruVGSO5wBUQoOn4R8Q6qbo7cWs2KggnErflJR9c=c7RH6aomOEuwP2LMJHbjDWikZ3vp4cKVXH5Enhhk3YM=>),
>> the port-side bench seating (Pic
>> <http

Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Edd:

Some of your pictures show the Stack Pack, but in the racing pictures it's
not there.  Is the pack easily removable for racing? I have a loose footed
main.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay via CnC-List
> *Sent:* July-09-18 8:11 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?
>
>
>
> Chuck,
>
>
>
> While I can’t comment on the winged-keel version specifically, I’ve had my
> 1990 C 37+ for 13 years now (the Enterprise-A was a 1978 C 34) and
> can’t say enough about how wonderful a boat it is.
>
>
>
> SAILING
>
> She’s responsive, points well and can handle heavier wind and chop better
> than pretty much any other boat in her class. For cruising, I find the 135%
> jib to be perfect in just about every wind range - never overpowered and
> can easily hit 7.2 knots (or, as we say on my boat, Warp 7.2) on the jib
> alone (Pic
> ).
> Once you get the boat, if it doesn’t already have one, I would suggest
> installing a “Stack Pack” system for the main (Pic1
> 
>  | Pic 2
> )
> as, without one, getting the main up or down, especially in a breeze, can
> be a multi-person job between the flaking and sail ties (Pic
> 
> ).
>
>
>
> ACCOMODATIONS
>
> She is simply a cruiser’s dream. The biggest complaint I’ve heard about
> monohulls is that it feels like you’re in a basement. Not true with the
> 37/40 series. It’s light, airy and very comfortable. The V-berth forward
> cabin in spacious with LOTS of storage, the main cabin bright, has great
> ventilation, and between the starboard-side u-shaped seating (Pic
> ),
> the port-side bench seating (Pic
> ),
> the nav table and the L-shaped galley, you won’t be bumping into each
> other. The head is bigger than some cruise-ship bathrooms with a separate
> enclosed shower stall (with seat too!) and that aft cabin with the
> centerline island queen bed is just phenomenal (Pic
> ).
> She will be the envy of all your friends and, if you’re lucky, you may get
> a white-bearded C 30 MkII owner come aboard and say things like “I f-in
> hate you” and who tells other C’ers “Don’t go back there” when they start
> inching towards your aft cabin.
>
>
>
> MAINTENANCE
>
> What’s better on a boat than doing projects and customizing? I’m often
> amazed at how much access there is to wiring and other systems. And engine
> access is on three-sides (some have added a fourth side hatch in their
> head) making engine work pretty easy with less blood-covered knuckles.
>
>
>
> Some additional under-sail (racing) photos (Pic1
> 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Injectors

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:

Give Norm Gustafson a call (360) 823-6357.  He used to be in charge of big
diesels (Catapiller) locally, and he taught a diesel class when he was a
member of RCYC.  He can give you advice over the phone, and if you want him
to work on your engine, he'll do a good job.

Alan Bergen


On Tue, Jul 3, 2018 at 1:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you're looking at blue smoke it's not as likely to be the injectors.
> Injectors usually get linked to black smoke / an overly rich mixture.
>
> Blue smoke is more likely compression related or somehow the lube oil
> blows by the rings and burns (It seals-up as the metal expands upon warming
> up) But it's not necessarily caused by worn-out cylinder / piston
> assemblies.  It could be as simple as a using oil that's too thin for your
> engine and/or conditions or a valve  / valve guide leak which can be fixed
> with a valve job and/or a top end cleanup / rebuild. From what I've read,
> quite common on sailboat diesels
>
> Here's some good reading on the subject:
> https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/read-those-smoke-signals
> 
> https://www.boats.com/how-to/diesel-engine-smoke-blue-black-or-white/
> 
>
> I would have a competent local guy check it out.  If the smoke is not
> persistent he will more than likely tell you to make sure you use fresh
> fuel / put some good fuel additives to prevent gumming and bacteria growth
> / keep the oil fresh / keep on sailing and don't worry.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Francois Rivard
>
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Re: Stus-List North Nordac Sails

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have been racing with a 105% Nordac genoa for ten years, and have had no
problems with it.  Recently I noticed a little wear at one spot the luff
tape, probably due to a rough spot on the furler.  I also have a 135%
furling genoa which I use for cruising.  It's four years old, and I haven't
used t very much.  If I needed new sails, I wouldn't hesitate to go with
Nordac, or whatever North is recommending these days.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Jul 3, 2018 at 9:59 AM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone using Nordac Sails?  Comments?
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
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Stus-List ST4000+ Mechanical Problem

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Has anyone on the list taken the Wheel Pilot Actuator apart? On the way to
the starting line last week, the steering was catching on something inside
the Wheel Pilot Actuator,  I opted to not race for fear that the steering
would lock up during the race.  Previous to this happening, the clutch
lever would pop out occasionally.  Is there a clutch adjustment, that might
solve both problems? According to the Raymarine Forum, this unit is no
longer serviced by Raymarine.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

They'll replace any and all that are on the replacement list. No limit.  No
questions asked.  I replaced two that I bought at Home Depot.

Alan


On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 11:38 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have 2 at home and 4 on my boat. How do they deal with all those?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
>
> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 7:30 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It was discussed but we may have new listers since then.
>>
>> It's fairly easy.  Have your extinguisher handy and go here:
>>
>> https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/support/product-
>> alerts/recall-kidde-fire-extinguisher/
>> 
>>
>> Enter the model number and serial number to see if your extinguisher is
>> recalled.  If so, fill out your personal info and Kidde will send you a
>> replacement.  Drop your old one in their box, slap on the supplied label
>> and call FedEx for pickup.  Many FedEx offices will not take it because it
>> requires a specially trained person to accept it.
>>
>> I got two replacements.  :)
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 9:06 PM, tom via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know if this has been brought up before, but please check if you
>>> have Kidde with plastic handles. These have all been recalled and you can
>>> get replacements for free.
>>>
>>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/inmar-adx-files/N130284/US_
>>> Plastic+Handle+Product+ID+Guide.pdf
>>> 
>>>
>>> Tom Oryniak
>>> Carry On 33-1
>>> Raritan Bay Nj
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 12:25 PM, mark woehnker via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>


 Regards,

 Mark Woehnker

 On Sun, Jul 1, 2018, 12:14 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  https://ccga-pacific.org/files/library/01-07_Portable_
> Fire_Extinguishers_April_11,2007.pdf
> 
>
> I did find this. It's not recertification but a yearly maintenance
> tag. Six of one...
>
>
>
> Cheers, Al
>
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>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 

Re: Stus-List Perkins Marine Engine

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Google *Perkins, Type KD 3024*  manual.

Alan


On Sun, Jun 17, 2018 at 10:27 AM, T Smyth via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The Atomic 4 engine on my “new” C 30 (1974) was replaced prior to my
> purchase of the boat a few weeks ago.
> It now has a *Perkins, Type KD 3024.*
> Any idea where I might locate a manual for this engine?  I have the serial
> number.
> No engine manual came with the boat.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> T Smyth
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine wind

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If the CAL legend on the digital display (small legend at the bottom of the
display) flashes for the first 30 seconds after any power up, use the
appropriate Calibration procedures to:

1.  Apply the factory defaults.
2.  Carry out the linearization procedure.

To do this:

1.  Power up the wind instrument.
2.  Slowly turn your boat through two complete circles (three to five
minutes for each circle).  This procedure automatically linearizes the
windvane.  A successful linearization is indicated by the digital display
flashing and the buzzer sounding three beeps.

Next set the instrument to factory defaults, and finally calibrate the
instrument.  These procedures are in your owner's manual.  If you don't
have the manual, let me know, and I'll copy the procedure for you.

Alan


On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 10:47 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> may I ask what you mean by linearize the instruments?
>
> Wade
> 33 Mk II  Oh Boy
>
> On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 10:01 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> On the ST50/60/60+ instruments, there has to be 8 volts between the red
>> wire and the screen.  Less than 8 volts won't do.  The i50/60 instruments
>> are probably the same.  I had a similar problem with my wind display.  I
>> thought it was the masthead transducer.  When I discovered the lower (7.2
>> volts) voltage, I ran a connection from the red wire on one of the other
>> instruments to 12 volts.  That raised the red to screen voltage to 8
>> volts.  I then had to linearize the instruments and it cured the problem.
>> You can also check the Raymarine Forum http://forum.raymarine.com/?_g
>> a=2.187069608.1654551873.1529160097-1564253690.1523291050
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__forum.raymarine.com_-3F-5Fga-3D2.187069608.1654551873.1529160097-2D1564253690.1523291050=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=Uiw8t8O1Biq-qyZ7Z2VvdYfnAjZFXlqrQcU1qPr02dk=eMCLZT8obk0mQmqVRqj9ujDlMBYoJCX-JfV6S7LyRZM=>
>> to see whether this subject has been brought up.  If not, post your
>> question.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine wind

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

On the ST50/60/60+ instruments, there has to be 8 volts between the red
wire and the screen.  Less than 8 volts won't do.  The i50/60 instruments
are probably the same.  I had a similar problem with my wind display.  I
thought it was the masthead transducer.  When I discovered the lower (7.2
volts) voltage, I ran a connection from the red wire on one of the other
instruments to 12 volts.  That raised the red to screen voltage to 8
volts.  I then had to linearize the instruments and it cured the problem.
You can also check the Raymarine Forum
http://forum.raymarine.com/?_ga=2.187069608.1654551873.1529160097-1564253690.1523291050
to see whether this subject has been brought up.  If not, post your
question.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 6:19 AM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We had the opposite, speed didn't show, but direction did. Sending it to
> Raymarine was a fixed rate repair. They replaced the speed portion of the
> unit.
>
> You can check the back of the unit to watch the voltage swings indicating
> direction, but odds are it's the masthead sensor.
>
> To verify, check the blue and green wires against the sheild. They will be
> between 2 and 6v depending on the wind direction. Blue / Ground is port.
>
> On Fri, Jun 15, 2018, 7:33 PM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m having an intermittent issue with the wind instrument on Pulse. I
>> believe it’s the i50 i60 package. It always shows digital wind speed on the
>> display, but the directional indicator seems to freeze up.
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 36 Kite Rigging

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

On my boat I have the foreguy (downhaul) attached to the end of the pole,
and run it to a padeye just aft of the forestay.  Rob is right about not
being able to pull the pole forward with the lazy guy.  If you trip the
pole while going DDW, you can fly the spinnaker with both sheets while
pulling the pole forward with the foreguy.  Then, while sitting or standing
between the forestay and the pulpit, attach the new guy to the pole, gybe
the main, raise the pole on the new tack and steer toward your new target.

You can have the foreguy attached to a bridle so that it pulls down from
the middle of the pole.  That make it easier to move the jib (genoa) to the
other side of the boat which is necessary if you gybe the chute after
dropping the jib.  Having the downhaul attached to the end of the pole
makes it available to grab so that you can use it to pull the pole forward,
but it's a little more work moving the jib to the other side of the boat.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 5:52 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I always pulled it down and towards me with the lazy guy
>
> Wrong, it is impossible do that with the lazy guy.on the 34R I always
> pulled it down and towards me with the downhaul which was close to me
> directly in front of the forestay as the downhaul was attached to the outer
> end of the pole.   On the 33 MKII, the pitman would release the topping
> lift and pull down on the downhaul which would swing the pole down and
> towards me.,,, ,downhaul was in the middle of the pole.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2018-06-08 6:13 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Matt,
>> I worked foredeck racing for +30 years on boats of sizes from 24' to
>> 40'in my opinion, some boats the end for end is the way to go.other
>> boats the dip pole jybe is the way to go.some people feel the dip jybe
>> is too complicated, however, once you and your crew get the process
>> choreographed, it is actually simpler, easier and safer than an end-for-end
>> especially on a 36 footer that is mast head rigged.
>>
>> One tipmake sure the helmsman does not over-steer too quickly through
>> the jybeso, if the pole is too far foreward before the guy is
>> released/tripped we call it, , the jaw(s) are twisted on the guy and won't
>> release easily before the actual jybe, bring the pole back 45 deg or more
>> to make sure the trip of the pole goes smoothlythe jaw(s) won't be
>> twisted on the guy, it will drop easilyhave the pit man pull it
>> down or the foredeck person do it. I always pulled it down and towards me
>> with the lazy guy...and I stayed in front of the forestay looking
>> back..then have the helmsman steer until the chute is flying out
>> directly in front of the boat..attached the lazy guytighten it up
>> ...the jybe is made.now the helmsman can come up into the wind.The
>> big mistake I have found doing a dip pole jybe is the helmsman steers
>> through the jybe too quickly..the more you practice, the quicker and
>> more precise you get, especially in a heavier wind.as a foredeck
>> person, I would much rather do a dip pole jybe in a heavier wind than end
>> for end.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 -
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2018-06-08 3:36 PM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> Hey All,
>>> Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C 36.
>>>
>>> What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?
>>>
>>> I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?
>>>
>>> Many thanks,
>>>
>>> Matt
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 36 Kite Rigging

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I've been doing dip pole gybes for years.  On my present boat and on the
Ericson 30 I had before this one.  (That's almost forty-five years.) I use
separate sheets and guys.  Once you get your crew trained to do dip pose
gybes, you'll be happy with how fast, and safe they are.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Jun 8, 2018 at 11:36 AM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey All,
>
> Getting new running rigging on a recently purchased C 36.
>
> What does the brain trust recommend for gybing: dip pole or end-to-end?
>
> I.e. Can get away with only lite sheets or do we need guys as well?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Matt
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 3GMf Knocking Sound

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I had a problem with a previous boat, engine dying at higher rpm's.  Turned
out that there was a filter on the fuel take-up, in the tank, that was
partially clogged.  Once I cleaned it, the problem went away.

With my present boat with a 3GMf engine, I had a problem with the
transmission not fully engaging.  I bought a new cone, but that didn't cure
the problem.  On further inspection, I noticed a little "play" (not sure
that's the right word) when putting the transmission in gear.  I fixed the
problem with a couple of shims that eliminated the play.  If anyone needs a
new cone, I have one for sale at half price.

Recently I noticed more vibration than usual at high rpm's while in gear.
Out of gear, the engine runs very smoothly.  I'm pretty sure it's the
cutlass bearing, which hasn't been changed since I bought the boat in
2001.  The vibration isn't so bad that changing the cutlass can wait.
I'll change it when the boat comes out next year.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Hey Everyone,



Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past Wednesday
for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar 3GMF
would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might know
what could have caused it.



When it happened:

* We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
Like it was running out of fuel.

* We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed
us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me
it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced
power again and it immediately went away.



Conditions:

* At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.

* Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power
boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.

* At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and I
had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.



Observations:

* I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.

* No leaking oil, fuel, or water.

* Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
in the bottom but not much.

* When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.



Thoughts/Questions:

* Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?

* Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly? If
that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
not opening.

* I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally the
undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because of
stresses on the prop.



Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the
throttle up and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit
of a loss as to what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the
oil and I am planning on changing the fuel filters as well.



I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it
meets the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that
would indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?



Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.



Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
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Re: Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I had a pillow top pad made for my V-berth by Tufted Topper
www.tuftedtopper.com.  They did a great job.  They also make fitted sheets.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, May 31, 2018 at 6:47 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for advice on how to make 'em.
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF 38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
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> hZwZa5qYOSlMHZTlhA6bZfBA=MCpPeq9AtBhOM3ZA7uOUvUvpMlDdvSX6Ppdb-xs1P4U=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Try going to the Raymarine Forum with your problem:
http://forum.raymarine.com/?_ga=2.233394974.1255243691.1527269445-1564253690.1523291050

They might have advice that you haven't tried.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 10:01 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Ron
>
> I am well aware of the limitations of the wheel pilot.  But the PO did it
> and when motoring in light conditions it works ok most of the time...so
> replacing it was more about economics than best case.
>
> I am thinking the present issues could be a good enough reason to spring
> for it.  That said, I get it about the install and am not too sure it’s
> something I would be able to pull off, even with help.  But then, having a
> yard do it often gets a worse result the a DIY solution.
>
> If my control head is not messed up I may just need the below deck stuff,
> which will for sure lower the cost.
>
> We’ll see.
>
> Thx again.
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On May 25, 2018, at 8:48 AM, Ron Ricci  wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
>
>
> With a lot of input from Gary Russell, I installed a below deck pilot.  I
> previously talked to Raymarine about a wheel pilot and was warned the 37+
> was too heavy.  They sell a kit with a linear actuator, control head,
> control unit and sensor for around $3000 depending upon rebate.  It works
> great!
>
>
>
> Installation is a lot of work.  You have to cut the rudder post, stiffen
> it, make a shelf for the actuator and in my case drill out the rudder shaft
> (you may have a keyway).  Between Gary and myself, there is a wealth of
> photos and useful info.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 5:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia
> *Subject:* Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!
>
>
>
> Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then
> begins to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there.
>
>
>
> We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It
> started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for
> long  then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went
> out.
>
>
>
> The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went
> out again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like
> that is the source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be
> able to confirm that.
>
>
>
> A few questions for the C hivemind...
>
>
>
> Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?
>
>
>
> How much to replace the pilot?
>
>
>
> How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?
>
>
>
> Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.
>
>
>
> thx
>
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
>
> S/V Alera
>
> 1990 C 37+/40
>
> Vashon WA
>
> P 206.463.9200
>
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
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> YyOZcW5Rtl4hv87bMRyzBvz8JLdnhctC1jFUULg06xU=sacW2FTTWu8A-
> FaZsLsF70FRaI2jGMsqEZkhBVkjID0=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I seem to recall that the Raymarine autopilot has to be linearized when
first installed, but also if any of the instruments on the Seatalk buss are
changed.  Linearization consists of  turning two 360 degree slow turns
(about three to five minutes each).  Your owner's manual has the steps to
take.  Even if you don't think you need to do this, do it anyway.  I had to
do that when I installed a new wind transducer.  Other things you can check
are:  make sure there is nothing (iron or steel) near the magnetic sensor
for the autopilot, and also make sure that there is no RF close to the
autopilot wiring.  For the latter, try running without the VHF turned on.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then
> begins to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there.
>
> We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It
> started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for
> long  then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went
> out.
>
> The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went
> out again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like
> that is the source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be
> able to confirm that.
>
> A few questions for the C hivemind...
>
> Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?
>
> How much to replace the pilot?
>
> How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?
>
> Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.
>
> thx
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> B71HaZqLELn0WZRL42ASIN5m1zsxLpudcfuVv69_A00=-bYpA7uEvjeO6QcZoAy-
> f0jDcKNDECD8wQYRC-ivSpw=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List New lines and hayalards

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I recently replaced my double braid main halyard with Sta-set X.  It was
more difficult to splice than double braid, but I was able to do a
reasonable job.  Definitely less stretch, and I'm pleased with the
results.  If you Google New England Ropes, you can download their booklet
on splicing.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 4:06 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> StaSet X has a different construction than a basic polyester double braid
> like XLE or StaSet.  The core of StaSetX is not braided but instead has
> parallel orientation of core fibers inside a polyester sleeve.  This
> construction allows for a higher tensile strength and less elongation under
> tension at the expense of better flexibility and twisting characteristics.
>   New StaSetX has a  tendency to want to remain coiled or twisted when it
> comes off a winch which is one reason that it rarely is used for sheets and
> control lines requiring regular adjustments.  That said, it is the
> strongest construction for a polyester rope on a boat and if you are
> comfortable splicing it, it works well as a halyard.
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=930
> 
> Another difference is that StaSet X adds spun polyester fibers in the
> cover construction, which ostensibly makes the rope softer to the touch and
> a bit grippier in clutches.  My experience is that the cover tends to get
> fuzzy and picks up dirt and debris more readily as well as lacking abrasion
> resistance compared to filament cover yarns.
> As with most products, there are pluses and minuses.  Weighing cost vs
> performance is a wise practice.  As previously mentioned, some newer high
> tech and mid tech lines allow you to go down in size, but make sure the
> smaller size will grip properly in self tailers and your rope clutches.
> If you are looking for Pre-made halyards and want to expand your search
> online, look at Defender Industries, APS, R Rope, Mauri Pro Sailing,
> Jamestown Distributors, and Torresen Marine.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram MA
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 14, 2018, at 12:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm hoping Chuck or others can chime in on this - At Cajun Ropes, they
> show the XLE for halyards, and have a reasonable price for the halyards
> pre-made.  How does the XLE compare with New England Ropes Sta-Set X as far
> as elongation and the feel is concerned?
>
> I find the Sta-Set X to be stiff, though not untenable on our boat
> currently.
>
> If you would recommend the Argus, do you know someone who would premake
> the halyards to the length I want at a reasonably low price?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest 
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 11, 2018 8:02 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New lines and hayalards
>
> Cajun uses Novabraid Rope for their sheets and Halyards. Novabraid makes a
> blended Spectra core rope called Argus that is less stretchy than polyester
> double braid.  It’s what I use for halyards on Half Magic.  XLE is my
> choice for jib sheets and Novalite HP for Spinnaker Sheets.  All Canadian
> made too!
> Full disclosure, I work for Novatec Braids Ltd in marketing and product
> development...
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 11, 2018, at 7:26 AM, ROD STRIGHT via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Check out Cajun Ropes in Yarmouth.
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *T power via CnC-List
> *Sent:* January 11, 2018 7:30 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* T power 
> *Subject:* Stus-List New lines and hayalards
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm thinking of replacing all of the sheets and halyards on Invictus,
> hoping for some insight.
>
> Dennis of Touche posted a note about color designation that I thought was
> interesting but I forgot to copy it.
>
> Looking for recommendations of size type and color of lines and halyards
> for a cruising sailboat that may enter a fun club race once in a while.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Cheers.
>
> Tom Power
> Invictus
> C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo]
> 

Re: Stus-List Gooseneck toggle

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Derek:

I might have what you're looking for, but it's from a 35-3, and I don't
know who manufactured the boom.  Send me a pictures with some dimensions.
I'm racing to Victoria next week, and I can mail it to you from there.

Alan


On Fri, May 4, 2018 at 10:38 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I happen to be in need of the gooseneck toggle for my 29-2. The mast was
> down for the winter and when I tried to attach the boom yesterday I could
> not as the toggle is gone. I assume it was stolen as it was stored in a not
> terribly secure boatyard.
>
> As far as I can tell, it is a part number K-10345A for a Kenyon boom. It
> has a 3/8" pin that attaches it to the bracket on the mast.
>
> I spoke with Rig Rite and it runs $190 plus exchange and shipping and duty
> to get it to Canada. Not insignificant money for a smallish part. Not sure
> if there are any alternatives for something so specific, unless I have one
> custom made which I would entertain.
>
> But if anyone has a pile of parts or knows of a place for used things like
> this, please let me know!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Derek McLeod
> 1983 C 29-2, Aileron
> Toronto
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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> 01vKLJwsVdjPCK5RO5QssOgP-1YXG4=C9hy2_fAAEz0kWgdu1M9xUpfn_
> ajgkTNIPiOSgkQKDs=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Thanks Chad.  I'll try the display first, and then the transducer.

Alan


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:04 PM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Raymarine repair is about $150 fixed rate if it turns out to be the
> masthead transducer.
>
> We has ours repaired last year.
>
> You can verify by measuring the voltage from the ground shield to the
> yellow and green wires, there are a few documents online.
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 6:17 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead
>> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough
>> to sail at night without it.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=Mt6_Tm_DPnQ4e0_EcQ7msZ_YzcJS1cm3pIQIttZDtlg=sCviQNoKLXHHZeoZEBjyTWxAqmZtUIg8ve_I6JZYAtE=>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=Mt6_Tm_DPnQ4e0_EcQ7msZ_
> YzcJS1cm3pIQIttZDtlg=sCviQNoKLXHHZeoZEBjyTWxAqmZtUIg8ve_I6JZYAtE=
>
>
>
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Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead
transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough
to sail at night without it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Re: Stus-List LED Cabin Lighting

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I bought battery operated, LED puck lights at Harbor Freight.  They didn't
last very long.  I replaced them with circular, LED  lights that I bought
from a local marine store.  They are touch sensitive.  Touch once, and they
give you a nice blue light.  Touch again and the light turns white.  Touch
and hold, and they gradually dim or get brighter, depending on how long you
hold the touch.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:29 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> At BJ’s wholesale club I noticed a pack of 8 LED battery operated puck
> lights with velcro stick on mounts and a remote control that regulated
> which were on and brightness.  The whole thing was under $20.  I was very
> tempted and may yet do it even though I already have LED’s.  I am sure I
> would find a use for them.  Dave
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
>
> On Apr 25, 2018, at 4:33 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I found some 12 v emergency lights at a Restore for $6 each. They didn't
> have an incorporated switch so that cost another $5 for a small rocker
> switch from a local electronics store, then replaced the bulb with an LED I
> got on e-Bay for peanuts (from China). Cheap and works great.
>
> Cheers, J-G
> Callisto, 35 Mk2
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
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> IdCG0Jk5jaJjhiQTDyM6SvFXE7VNFuDP70ybhO8TQEM=
> ROLLLBpMJCatz7b7y6RkKxmIcN3vV8lQQSErmLbh-OA=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It doesn't matter which way the vanes are turned, when you install the
impeller.  As soon as the engine turns over, the vanes will correct
themselves.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Apr 22, 2018 at 7:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I checked the impeller on my Sherwood water pump and it was OK, but I am
> unclear how to reassemble it.  Here is a diagram of the design.
>
> http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.
> php?owner=mdd_ident=200144-51=M4-30%20/%20M4-30A=
> Universal=Sherwood%20Water%20Pump_position=
> =200144
> 
>
> 1. It is unclear to me which way it rotates.  I am guessing it would
> rotate such that the vanes are moving from the inlet opening toward the
> outlet opening, but otherwise I don’t know how to tell.
>
> 2. I watched some YouTube videos about reassembly to get the vanes bent in
> the correct way and nothing I have seen describes this “new style” pump.
> The screws on this one come in from the rear (PITA to remove) and the key
> shaft are on the engine side.  The housing comes off with the tubing.  The
> videos describe rotating the impeller onto the staft in the correct
> direction while inserting the impeller into the housing.  But with the
> housing and shaft on different parts of the pump, you can’t do that.  I am
> guessing that you would put the impeller on the shaft and then somehow try
> to bend the vanes as you push the housing over it, but that seems like it
> will be really hard to get all the vanes right, especially because you
> can’t see them once the housing starts to cover the impeller.  I am hoping
> there is a “trick” to doing this that I am missing.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Stus-List Boat Graphics

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Now through April 22, BoatUS has boat graphics on sale, 30% off.  Use promo
code RELAX at checkout.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Replacing top section of Harken Furler

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Mine came with the boat.  There wasn't any Loctite used.  Only drive pins
holding the sections together.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Apr 15, 2018 at 2:19 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Anyone ever take apart a Harken MkIII Furler?
>
> I installed mine by myself ten years ago and now want to replace the
> damaged top section while the mast is out.  The stay is rod so I'll have to
> pull all the sections off from the bottom to get to the top one.   I am
> worried the parts won't come apart very easily.  I'm worried about all the
> Loctite adhesive used between sections and bearings and if I need to use a
> heat gun to separate parts?  Maybe I'm overthinking this.  Any tips would
> be appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Traveler fit?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I did the same as Jim, except I have cam cleats as part of the turning
blocks at the ends of the traveler.  I like Jim's arrangement better than
mine.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sat, Apr 14, 2018 at 4:57 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put a Harken high-beam Big Boat track and car on the boat, wonderful
> difference. It works just fine in the aluminum bridge over the companionway
> without additional risers. I can find a parts list if interested.
> I had to take the bridge off the boat so I could drill out the old
> fasteners. That was a fun job. While it was off I dismounted the sea hood
> and cleaned all the crap out and rebedded it.
> Pic here: https://i.imgur.com/qTnBNwl.jpg
> 
> As an aside, I haven't been very impressed with Lewmar travelers.
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Traveler fit?
>>
>> Hello from frozen Michigan.  I am still spending my kids' inheritance on
>> deck hardware.
>>
>> Question for 35-3 owners or others:  Has anyone replaced the aging
>> Schaefer main traveler?  What advice might you offer...Defender has a sale
>> on Lewmar traveler kits, size 2 which would offer enough capacity for us.
>> But...I am not at the boat, and wonder if the aluminum traveler bridge that
>> houses the current track will allow the change to Lewmar?  Appears that the
>> car-mounted cam cleats might be obstructed by the bridge "tray" height in
>> the mid-section.  The Lewmar track appears lower in the pictures.  Current
>> Schaefer setup has outboard mounted cam cleats.
>> Any advice on replacement traveler selection?
>>
>> PS...Ice fishermen are still driving trucks to shanties on Hessel Bay.
>> Yech.
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>>
>> ​Morning Sky C$C 35-3
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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Stus-List Raymarine Product Testing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I found this on the Raymarine web site, for anyone who might be interested:

Would you like to become a Raymarine Product Tester?

If you own an Axiom, eS or gS MFD, you can apply to become a Raymarine
Product Tester which will enable you to influence new features which you
will be able to preview & test before they become available to the market.
To register your interest, please click here and complete the survey found
*HERE* . You will then
be contacted by Raymarine’s ‘Global Field Trials Facilitator’ via email who
will provide you with some more information. Please be aware that
successful applicants will be required to sign a confidentiality agreement
to enable you to participate. Thank you for your time and we look forward
to your input.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Acrylic and plexiglass are the same thing.  If you are handy, you can make
new lenses by using the old ones and a pattern bit on a router to make new
ones.  Thats's what I did.  My solar fan is in the hatch in the main
cabin.  Works well there.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Apr 6, 2018 at 6:56 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I have a 35-3 and my solar vent fan is though my forward hatch. Have any
> 35-3 owners put their solar vent fan through the deck, possibly into the
> head and do you have pictures? I’m considering moving mine since I’d like
> more natural light coming in the v-berth. In addition all my hatches have
> the spider cracks in them has anyone replaced their acrylic with Plexi,
> sent their hatches to Select Plastics in Norwalk, CT to be refurbed or
> replaced them all together with Bomar or Lewmar hatches? I’m interested in
> everyone’s opinions and experience.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien Sadler
> S/V TAZ
> C 35-3
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> uXaMiRLqKZiPZomCGNDApb3fnmg=
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>
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Re: Stus-List Sydney Boat yard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I'll keep that in mind the next time I'm in Tacoma.

Alan


On Thu, Apr 5, 2018 at 3:57 PM, Kyle Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> Vashon is pretty close to Tacoma and Hylebos Marina. They're the least
> expensive and most user friendly yard I know of.
>
> Respectfully,
>
> Kyle Davis
> C 26 1977
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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> niHVE2rzEqeIB5aU=SBOmXgRLCtRsG4CNXX0OPkOymW1hRMoNOXc3vYloZtY=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sidney boat yard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

That's good to know for the next time I'm in Sidney

Alan


On Thu, Apr 5, 2018 at 3:48 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan
>
> The CSR yard in Des Moines is even closer.  But, I can save 25-30% due to
> exchange rate and no sales tax.  Also, there’s a super Yanmar mechanic that
> I want to do some work.
>
> Fun adventure too...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 5, 2018, at 2:45 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2018 14:44:07 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN 
> To: "C" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sidney boat yard
> Message-ID:
>

Re: Stus-List Sidney boat yard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Why Sidney when Port Townsend and Port Angeles are a lot closer.\?

Alan


On Thu, Apr 5, 2018 at 2:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am thinking about taking Alera up to Sidney for her bi annual haul out.
> Nothing major, just the usual zinc and bottom paint, etc.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Apr 5, 2018, at 12:53 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re:  [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries (Rod Stright)
>   2. Re:  Marine Batteries (Marek Dziedzic)
>   3. Re:  Marine Batteries (Marek Dziedzic)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2018 16:45:52 -0300
> From: "Rod Stright" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries
> Message-ID: <00d501d3cd16$b4517c10$1cf47430$@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks Johns Much appreciated
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
> via CnC-List
> Sent: April-05-18 4:38 PM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries
>
>
>
> Rod, that's how the email lists works.
>
>
>
> I use Google Gmail message rules to automatically move all
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  >  to a different folder.  I also look at emails
> in conversation view.  I can turn off notifications for the
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  >  folder and when I look at the folder I can
> choose to read based on the subject since the whole conversation is shown
> as in line item.
>
>
>
> If you don't like it make something else and see if you can drum up as
> much support or more than the list.
>
>
>
> The advantage of email is that it is ubiquitous.  No special apps or
> hardware platforms.  And it is pretty lean on bandwidth for anybody with
> slow connections.  I like that the messages get pushed to my phone
> regardless of whether or not I request them.  Even in a no internet service
> area I can review emails that were pushed hours ago.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 5, 2018, 3:29 PM Rod Stright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > > wrote:
>
> Do we always need to copy everyone on the list about everything.  Gets
> pretty ridiculous with the number of emails.  No wonder people unsubscribe
>
>
>
> Rod
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > >
> On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: April-05-18 3:01 PM
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > '  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > >
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe  gov > >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries
>
>
>
> Sams Club had their private label golf carts for $89 each. Like their
> AGMs, I think they are Dekas.
>
> I will one day switch to golf carts when I figure out how to mount them.
> They will not fit where I have my batteries now. One nice thing about them
> is abuse is not instant death. Mild overcharging can be fixed with water
> and mild undercharging will resolve with equalization. Gels never get
> better once abused.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2018 1:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  >
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries
>
>
>
> By contrast, my Trojan T105 golf cart batteries run around $150.00 each; a
> pair of them has twice the amp-hour capacity at 12 

Stus-List Mast Sensor

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have ST60+ instruments.  The wind direction indicator reads erratically.
Sometimes it reads correctly, and sometimes it's off by a lot.  Is the
sensor serviceable?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland. OR
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Re: Stus-List Ocean Race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I don't race Swiftsure anymore.  We'll be returning to Portland on Sunday,
after the barbecue at RVYC.

Alan


On Tue, Apr 3, 2018 at 3:44 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Will you stay in Victoria for the Swiftsure?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Apr 3, 2018, at 3:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2018 14:50:48 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN 
> To: "C" 
> Subject: Stus-List Ocean Race
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Starting in the wee hours of the morning, on May 8, we'll be working our
> way down the Columbia River, to get to Astoria, Oregon for the start of the
> annual Oregon Offshore race.  Three C's will be entered:  Thirsty (35 Mk
> III), Cool Change (Landfall 38), and Fortuna (115).  The race starts on
> Thursday, May 10; starting time is determined by the best time to cross
> the
> Columbia River bar.  The race finishes just inside the harbor entrance at
> Victoria, BC, Canada.  You can watch our progress by going to:
> www.oregonoffshore.org
> ,
> and clicking on race tracker.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
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> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> gHe3LX9f9kKU27JBYbZxJtMmP8FSB2STWn6X5n-Nlzk=
> idafTpeQ22UQjwmWkFU0gKbnI5zcXAEmzx6TaDdtxe8=
>
>
>
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Stus-List Ocean Race

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Starting in the wee hours of the morning, on May 8, we'll be working our
way down the Columbia River, to get to Astoria, Oregon for the start of the
annual Oregon Offshore race.  Three C's will be entered:  Thirsty (35 Mk
III), Cool Change (Landfall 38), and Fortuna (115).  The race starts on
Thursday, May 10; starting time is determined by the best time to cross the
Columbia River bar.  The race finishes just inside the harbor entrance at
Victoria, BC, Canada.  You can watch our progress by going to:
www.oregonoffshore.org, and clicking on race tracker.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Re: Stus-List Winch sale

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I think today was the last day.

Alan Bergen


On Sun, Mar 25, 2018 at 9:43 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone. Does anyone know when the West Marine annual buy one get one
> free winch sale is. I’m thinking it’s soon.
> Cheers.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> s/v Wild Rover
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> wZ0uluffPzeqe30rYIFxfF4Xg8yoVhs2dJPDxGMLGx4=Mf2E-
> U8RenFB6Mzra1JgA9seVUccI4ZI17TqtkPmhfc=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Lew Townsend did my hydraulics.  He is very professional, and he does a lot
more than just replacing parts.  I am sure you will not find better quality
work from anyone than you will get from him.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:43 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You could source new seals on McMaster-Carr which will probably be the
> cheapest route.
>
> A hydraulic shop will probably have the seals on hand and be able to
> install at their hourly rate - second cheapest.
>
> When I sent my Navtec cylinders (2) to Lew Townsend (+1 206-498-7282) at
> Sound Rigging in Seattle WA, I didn't exactly expect much more than a
> typical hydraulic shop with the exception that it would be done with
> authentic Navtec parts.  When he called to tell me that one of my pistons
> was bent (out of true) and that he had straightened it, I was surprised.
> When he further relayed that he was in the process of polishing the
> pistons, I was more shocked.  And then he described having performed a 24
> hour pressure drop test.  These interactions reassured me that while he may
> not have been the cheapest he was certainly very high quality and high
> value.
>
> As a comparison, when I bought the boat, back in May of 2012, the PO was
> dismayed by the small ring of oil accumulating around the pistons.  In
> frustration he stated that he had just had the cylinders rebuilt at a local
> hydraulic shop.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 21, 2018, 11:19 PM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey everyone,
>> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid
>> around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs
>> replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked
>> out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures
>> as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking
>> is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my
>> hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C
>> Halifax, NS
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List New Sheets - What kind of line?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have always been competitive using double braid polyester line for my
main and jib sheets, not going with the more expensive hi tech line.  I use
7/16" line because it's easier to handle than 3/8".

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:23 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi listers,
>
> I'm planning on buying new sheets during the Defender Sale. We're a novice
> club-racing boat most of the time, but also do short trips around western
> long island sound.
>
> I've got old polyester core/cover sheets now, and will continue using them
> with my cruising headsails, but I'm thinking of getting Samson XLS Extra-T
> in the same diameter as i have now (3/8") to replace the mainsheet, and for
> my racing headsails. Is there any other type of line I should consider
> before pulling the trigger?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35-1
> City Island, NY
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Resleeving winches

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

West Marine has a sale on now, through Sunday.  Buy one, get one free.
Lewmar winches included.  Might be a better way to go, Mike.  Disclaimer:
I don't know whether it applies to all WM stores.  I received the
announcement in an email from them.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 1:00 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Barient 27’s are developing a lot of play.  The aluminum drums wearing
> badly (the inside, not the outside).
>
> The rest of the winches are in great shape, gears, bearings, pawls.  I was
> wondering if anyone on the group has ever tried having a machine shop bore
> out the interior of the drum to accept a sleeve of aluminum or oilite
> bronze. I contacted Hutton Winches in Australia and they told me they do
> this service for $400/drum. Obviously, shipping 2 large winches to
> Australia and back would be out of the question.
>
> Anyone had this done at a local machine shop?
>
>
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> C Lovely Cruise
>
> SMSC
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replace mast sheaves

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You don't have to remove the top plate.  Take the tension off the halyards,
or the sheaves will get pulled down into the mast.  Turn the mast so the
sheaves are facing down.  If the spindle is attached to the metal tab (not
all of mine were), just pull it out, remove the old sheave and insert the
new sheave.  If the spindle is not attached to the metal tab, you might
have to drill a small hole in the opposite side of the mast, in order to
push the spindle out.  I replaced my halyards with all rope halyards.  I
used sheaves from Zephyrwerks http://www.zephyrwerks.com/.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 4:51 AM, steve dewar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With my mast out for the winter, I am thinking of replaces the sheaves at
> the masthead. Being a new owner of my 35 mkiii and not wanting to screw up
> the present halyard operation, is it as easy as unscrewing the Phillip
> screw, remove metal tab,  pull out metal spindle and remove and replace the
> sheave?
> Enquiring mind wants to know!
> Thanks Steve
>
> Sent from my iPad
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>
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

The latest BoatUS magazine had an article about changing your water heater
anode.  Here's the link:

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2018/february/replacing-your-boats-water-heater-anode.asp

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 4:53 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same hot
> water heater.coolant and electric.never knew there might be an
> anode to replace.
>
> However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the original
> owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it.
>
> When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the water
> tank and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.it is just too
> big.it would have to be either taken apart ( the outer casing from the
> actual tank) or cut it up.  One thing for sure, if C or the previous put
> it in, it did not go down the lazarette the way it is put together right
> now.  And if you had to take it apart and put it back together when you get
> it in, why would you do that in the first place.  Get get a water heater
> that fits down the lazarette.
>
> It can't be 33 years old?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32- 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the
> sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.
>
> Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up
> (though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were
> bone dry.  I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe
> longer.
>
> I haven't checked the anode yet.
>
> Just curious,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List water heater

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced mine a couple of years ago.  It was the same as the one I
removed, but the outside was plastic, so it wouldn't rust.  (The one I
removed was so badly rusted, that the bottom just fell out.)  What ever you
get, make sure that it will fit.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Mar 2, 2018 at 11:04 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common
> wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks
> like Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the
> same or very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the
> engine coolant (and potentially AC, but this is secondary).
>
> Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List AIS is alive!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have an antenna mounted on the stern pulpit for the AIS, with my VHF
antenna mounted on the top of the mast.  If I ever lose my mast, the AIS
antenna can be an emergency VHF antenna.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Feb 22, 2018 at 5:50 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the antenna splitter is in my future. They aren’t cheap though.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>
> > PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwIGaQ=
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>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses > Diesel Fill Hose

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Replace your fuel fill hose.  I hadn't thought about doing that until one
day when I was working in a locker, brushed up against the fuel fill hose
and noticed cracks.  I replaced it immediately, and then went about
replacing all of my hoses.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk iii Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Feb 18, 2018 at 4:30 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there a method to test the condition of a diesel fill hose?  Something
> similar to wrapping a warm wet rag around an old sanitation hose?  As
> diesel is not as volatile as gas would  guess hoses carrying diesel would
> last longer… ??  And it is not like the fuel was sitting in the hose as the
> route from deck fill to tank is nearly vertical.
>
>
>
> AFAIK - The diesel fill hose on my boat is original.  The exterior “looks”
> old but there are no cracks or any surface damage visible.  I have to
> replace the deck fill fitting this spring, but would rather not play with
> the fill hose to the tank if I do not have to.  Its path behind cabinetry
> makes it a royal PITA to access, and appears to require taking too much of
> the cabinetry apart.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 17, 2018 4:42 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List PSS shaft seal - now hoses
>
>
>
> Hear!  Hear!  High on my list!  In the 1st 4 months I had Touche' I
> replaced all the thru hull hoses, the alcohol stove hose, and all the
> engine hoses.  The two I didn't think about were the fuel fill hose and
> shaft log hose.  I was painfully reminded of the former after filling the
> tank one day and smelling gasoline throughout the boat.  The inner and
> outer layers of the old hose had separated allowing gasoline to find its
> way between the layers.  The vapors seeped out of the outer layer.
> Replaced it promptly.
>
>
>
> I replaced the shaft log hose during the diesel re-power process a couple
> years later.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 17, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> BUT many of us have 30+ year old boats with the original rubber stuffing
> box hose plus other old hoses. You have to ask yourself do you trust $5
> worth of old rubber hose to hold the water out? *Crazy Legs* has 3 sink
> drains, 2 sea water intakes plus the stuffing box. Don’t forget the old
> rubber poo hose and fuel hose! Put your hand up if you have original rubber
> hose somewhere! Check yours out, mine had cracks along the surface of the
> hoses and I wasn’t comfortable leaving it that way.
>
>
>
> Len Mitchell
>
> SV *Crazy Legs*
>
> 1989 37 +
>
> Midland On
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

There's a good article about "Do it yourself" dripless shaft seal
installation in the February issue of BoatUS magazine, page 72.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rise City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 7:39 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> This is why I love this group, lots of great experience to draw on. I’m
> reconsidering switching based on the advice. I never heard about or thought
> about the catastrophic potential with the PSS. It’s also significantly less
> expensive to keep what I have and re-pack. Thanks again.
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Practical Sailor

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Jim:

I'll take the ones form 2016 and 2017.  You can give them to me when I sail
up on the Oregon Offshore in May.

Alan

Alan


On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 4:08 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have about 30 years of PS, going back to 1987, sorted, catalogued, and
> boxed. I have offered them here before, and no takers. I'm going to put
> them in the Free section of UsedVictoria.com and see if someone local wants
> them. Otherwise, it's definitely recycling time.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 12 February 2018 at 09:20, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Greetings!
>>
>> I have about 15 years or so of Practical Sailor magazines that I need to
>> get rid off. If someone wants them, please drop me a line. You can pick
>> them up in case you're in Annapolis area or I can ship if the shipping cost
>> is paid. Otherwise, they might get recycled soon...
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Aaron R.
>> Admiral Maggie,
>> 1979 C 30 MK1 #540
>> Annapolis, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

C'mon guys.  Let's not start this again.  This is a C list, not an
automobile list.

Alan Bergen

Alan


On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 4:38 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> my first car was an MGA.  Almost the most fun car I had, despite the lack
> of power.
>
> Leslie.
>
> 
> On Mon, 2/5/18, bushmark4--- via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance
>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  Cc: bushma...@aol.com
>  Date: Monday, February 5, 2018, 8:35 AM
>
>
>   A great car...I had a couple of
>  Bug-Eye Spritesand an MGA; fun to drive but I hated
>  those electric fuel pumps!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Richard
>
>
>  s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River;
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Richard N. Bush
>
>  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
>  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>
>  502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  -Original
>  Message-
>
>  From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
>  
>
>  To: cnc-list 
>
>  Cc: Randy Stafford 
>
>  Sent: Mon, Feb 5, 2018 11:32 am
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  A Triumph Spitfire.  My best
>  buddy in high school had one of those, bright yellow.  We
>  tried hard to roll it with high-speed cornering, but never
>  succeeded.
>
>
>
>
>  Cheers,
>
>  Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>  On Feb 5, 2018, at 9:22 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via
>  CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>
>
>  My agent booked my policy through Hagerty as a
>  “classic boat”.  I’m limited to 200 miles offshore
>  and runs about $800 but it hasn’t gone up in 3 years.  By
>  having both a classic boat and car policy, my Triumph
>  Spitfire insures for $85 per year for full coverage.
>
>  Chuck Gilchrest
>  S/V Half Magic
>
>  1983 35 LF
>
>  Padanaram MA
>
>
>  Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>  On Feb 5, 2018, at 11:06 AM, Jim Giffing via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Sadly American Family does not seem to cover the
>  Chesapeake. :(
>
>
>
>
>  Jim
>
>
>  S/V Strong Tower
>
>
>  1977 C 29 MK 1
>
>
>  North East, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>  On Sun, Feb 4,
>  2018 at 12:00 PM,  
>  wrote:
>
>  Send CnC-List mailing list
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>  Today's Topics:
>
>
>
>
>
> 1. Re:  insurance (Larry)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  --
>  -- --
>
>
>
>
>
>  Message: 1
>
>
>  Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2018 08:51:25 -0800
>
>
>  From: "Larry" 
>
>
>  To: 
>
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance
>
>
>  Message-ID: <003a01d39dd8$65bbce60$ 31336b20$@comcast.net>
>
>
>  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
>
>
>  I am super impressed with their rates and service.
>
>
>
>
>
>  My boat was hit at the dock three days after I took
>  delivery, Thank god for surveys, the owner of the boat
>  attempted to claim they did not do the damage. The Survey
>  and witness saved the day. I paid to have the boat repaired
>  immediately (right at the water line) and American Family
>  wrote me a check and then had the other persons insurance
>  for their cost. Zero effect on my coverage or rates.
>
>
>
>
>
>  Like I said: just under 500 a year, 500 dollar deductible
>  and one million coverage in liability damages.
>
>
>
>
>
>  However they did not want to ensure my ZX14R sport bike. But
>  not too many do.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
>  list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
>
>
>  Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2018 8:30 AM
>
>
>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
>
>  Cc: Jim Reinardy
>
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Larry,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  American Family is based here in Wisconsin and I can second
>  your opinion.  I have had all of my insurance with them,
>  including the boat for nearly 30 years.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Jim Reinardy
>
>
>
>
>
>  C 30-2 ?Firewater?
>
>
>
>
>
>  Milwaukee, WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Get Outlook for iOS  

Stus-List Insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Some things to consider when insuring your boat:  Make sure you have fuel
spill coverage - $500, 000 or more.  Also, don't insure your boat for more
than it's actually worth.  Hull insurance is the biggest cost of your
insurance.  Finally get lots of liability insurance.  That's the most
reasonable part of your premium.  Canadian yacht clubs want us to  have one
million dollars of liability insurance, if we want to use their reciprocal
moorage.  when I asked BoatUS/Geico (my carrier) how much it would cost to
increase my liability from five hundred thousand to one million, they told
me it would increase my premium by about six dollars a year.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List insurance

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If your deductible is zero, that means that your deductible has gone from
whatever you had it, to zero without increasing your premium for the zero
deductible.  In other words, you had no claims in the past four years, and
your deductible has gone down twenty-five percent per year over those four
years.  I had a claim, last year, and I didn't have to pay a deductible.
It started out as a four percent deductible, and it went down when I had no
claims for four years or more.  I had the same question as you, until they
explained it to me.  My insurance is due to renew in April, and the
deductible will probably go back to four percent, plus whatever the new
rates have increased to.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Alan


On Sat, Feb 3, 2018 at 3:26 PM, Matthew Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed.  I suspect we’re paying for hurricane damage.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 3, 2018, at 3:50 PM, ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all
>
>Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it went
> up 238$  a pretty big increase.  I called to ask why and they said it was
> nothing on my end rates just went up.  I am wondering if everybody else got
> raised as well?  I tried to increase my deductible  which is zero, to say
> 4% or so to lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have
> a automatic lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero
> it must stay there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$
> for 40k, might have to start shopping, any feedback?
>
>
>  Gary K
> "Liberty"  1976  38'  MKll
>
> ___
>
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>
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Kidde Fire Extinguisher Recall

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I had two bad ones also.  Kidde sent me two new ones, and info to return
the bad ones.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 8:34 PM, billbruce--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had two Kidde brand extinguishers on the boat and both were confirmed to
> be unsafe for use. The company is sending two new extinguishers along with
> disposal instructions for the old ones. The old ones were from 1985 and
> 1996.
>
> Bill Bruce
> Landfall 38
>
> ___
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Rental Inquiry

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I apologize in advance for using this list for a non-boating inquiry.  My
son is moving to Southern California in February, and is trying to find a
house or apartment to rent in Irvine, Tustin or Santa Ana.  If anyone knows
of something that might be in one of those cities, please contact me off
list.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Stus-List Sailrite Sale

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Sailrite has a sale through Monday.  $10 off $100; $25 off 200; $50 off
$375.  Use code *NEWYEAR18*

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I made a new Life Sling container using Sailrite's video.  Except for a
minor mistake in the video, the construction was easy, and the new cover
looks great.  For any of you who don't sew, I recommend taking sewing
lessons.  There are so many boat projects you can do if you sew.  Besides
the Life Sling container, I made a mainsail cover, and winch covers  that
match the other sewing projects with the same color.  Sailrite also has
videos for making a dodger, Bimini and complete boat cover, and they even
have kits for making your own sails.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 10:57 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Its 20 degrees F in Annapolis.  I'm looking for indoor projects.  One is
> to wrap the LifeSling bag in Sunbrella before the bag disintegrates.
>
> Any advice on an adhesive?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List AIS Improvement

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I upgraded my old Raytheon C80 MFD, I was able to download the new
firmware from their website - no charge.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 

I have hit a snag with my project. My CP180 plotter is refusing to take AIS
input on any NMEA port.
The firmware version is from 2008, so I think I'll be sending it back to
S-H for a firmware upgrade. This will cost about $35, which

IMHO is quite reasonable and also a nice contrast to brand R, which tends
to tell you "buy a new one" as the answer to any issue with any old
equipment.
Another issue is not a big deal but just odd, the AIS seems to not be
sending out the GPS per satellite signal quality string. On the computer
and the plotter I can see the position and HDOP just fine, but no
individual satellite signal levels.

On the good news side, the waterproof junction boxes and glands I got from
Amazon are working out well.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13144=1=
1513609581



Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List PROPELLER PITCH

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

While motoring in forward gear, run the engine at full throttle.  Your
engine should be able to reach maximum, or close to maximum rated rpm.  If
not, your pitch is to high.  If the engine runs much higher than maximum
rated rpm at full throttle, your pitch is too low.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Dec 17, 2017 at 2:18 PM, Bunky via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Luna is a 1984 C 35 with a Yanmar 3gm30 engine. Does anyone know what
> the proper propeller pitch should be? She has an aftermarket Maxiprop, and
> based on engine performance, I believe the pitch may be set too high.
>
> Richard
> Luna, Lake Champlain, VT
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:
My 3GMF (20hp) does the same thing.  When I first start it I give it full
throttle, and it starts fine.  After a race, it starts fine with no
advanced throttle.  I just assume the fuel is flowing back in the line, and
it's taking a while to get to the engine.  Some day I'll tighten all the
fuel line fittings.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 10:52 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What causes it to start poorly?  To start it we have to give it full
> throttle.  One more clue is that when it first fires some white smoke comes
> out..
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> Portland Or
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet set up

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My setup is similar to yours - 3:1 purchase plus the self - tailing winch.
The more purchase you have with a triple block means it will take longer
for the boom to go in and out when you change direction.  Also, in light
air, you may have too much friction for the boom to go out by itself when
going downwind, and your crew willhave to push the boom out.  My boat came
with a setup similar to  Josh's, and I switched over to the present
configuration.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Dec 1, 2017 at 5:44 AM, steve dewar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Presently, my mainsheet is a double block on cabin traveller, thru two
> blocks to the mast, down to another block, thru a stopper and finally to a
> self tailer winch. Being used to handling a main on 16 cat , I am used to a
> main sheet that is more responsive! I am thinking of changing up to a
> triple block with cam cleat on the cabin traveller. Does anyone see issues
> with this? Or is this a case of small boat thinking on a big boat set up?
> Thanks Steve
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Joe:

I bought my CO detector at Costco.  As far as I know, CO in the home is no
different than CO in a boat.  I believe the detector has to be replaced
every ten years.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 12:44 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My original coal mine CO detector died long ago. I replaced it with a
> Xintex marine CO detector. It is now old enough to need replacement or a
> factory refurb if they will do it. That will cost either $140 or so for new
> or $25 for a refurb. So I was in the hardware store and what do you know –
> a home CO detector for $25 brand new and it runs on batteries.
>
> Does anyone have any idea if these are suitable for a boat? I am going to
> get something, no way do I want people sleeping below without some kind of
> alarm.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> syKwtxiZroXlYwW-K1ddltrV-X01U=
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List White non skid decks

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Aurora Marine https://www.auroramarine.com/main/ makes a product called
Sure Step.  It's a sealer/polisher that's made for non-skid.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Nov 22, 2017 at 6:16 PM, coltrek via CnC-List  wrote:

> Sounds like the area around your boat is dirty. That's the first thing I
> would be concerned with. Beyond that, try Woody Wax.
>
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
> Date: 11/22/17 15:40 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rod Stright 
> Subject: Stus-List White non skid decks
>
> Just pressure washed the deck on my new to me C 99.  Man they look great
> but as soon as you step on the non skid it looks dirty and is difficult to
> clean. Anybody got any tips for keeping the white non skid decks clean
> and/or easier to clean?
>
>
>
> Rod
>
> 2004 C 99
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo]
> 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> 
>
> <#m_4636963980801547089_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Raymarine Black Friday Sale starts today

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you're looking to purchase any Raymarine products, check out their sale
items (including refurbished items) at 
Sale starts today.
-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Does the boat have a current registration? Your state Marine Board should
be able to tell you who the owner is, and how to get in touch with
him/her.  In Portland, there are some homeless people who live on run down
boats.  Perhaps there is a homeless person using it, or it might be a
stolen boat.  Good luck.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Nov 9, 2017 at 8:42 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Looking for some advice/experience on this non-C issue:
>
> As most of you know, I hauled the Enterprise for the winter about a month
> ago. The company that winterizes moorings has informed me this morning that
> a boat (no mast) has been on my mooring for a few weeks now (without my
> permission or knowledge.)
>
> The mooring is owned by me. Same with the mooring ball and gear. There is
> nothing that is attached to this mystery boat that can be considered club
> owned or public domain.
>
> I have reached out to the club to see if they know anything about it, but
> no response. My club is very loose when it comes to people’s property and
> rights.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions on what my next steps would be? TowBoat US
> doesn’t seem to want to touch it. Do I call the police? What would they do?
> What can I do? I’m under the impression that this falls under theft and
> trespassing.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=2ZHVLkV04_
> nlYwBRaoSj16evV3kGaui8AzESPow-gwc=E_QuIy53yIZ6VMUWwThJcCBO7wdeWNP8
> XfZLYPpYpYU=
>
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine instrument covers

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If your instruments are bulkhead mounted, Sew a piece of Sunbrella and
mount it to the bulkhead with snaps or other fittings so that it covers all
of the instruments.  No need for individual covers.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 2:06 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We got to the boat over the weekend and found one of the small square
> instrument covers for our Raymarine instruments (ST60+, etc.) had evidently
> got blown off.  One was gone, another was loose.
>
> These things are $20+ shipping.  Pretty stupidly priced for a piece of
> plastic IMHO.
>
> I don't necessarily mind replacing one of them, but I'm concerned about
> having to do so multiple times.
>
> Anyone have a better solution?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=WCtdz5fDjcdAGLXzAA_
> RmD60jFNUWco_Py9rRlci5z0=ebF6fOWTnKIZs4D9ekMj6e5hvL1vzN2sg1XTN9AzHgg=
>
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Joe:

I have an AIT2000 and Raymarine C80 MFD. The AIS out goes to the C80 NMEA
0183 in and the AIS in goes to the C80 out.  Since I have a separate GPS,
that connects to my VHF for the DSC connection.  I use a separate VHF
antenna for the AIS, and it can be used as a VHF antenna in case I ever
lose my mast.   I had difficulty connecting the AIS to my laptop (something
to do with the software I'm using), so I connected my GPS to the laptop as
well as to the VHF/DSC connections.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Oct 30, 2017 at 8:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The old AIS was tested on my Sunday afternoon sail and got about 15
> targets. It is now off the boat to be shipped to its new owner. The new one
> is on the way, a Digital Yacht AIT1500. So now I need to redo the various
> NMEA connections and the first thing I am trying to figure is the DSC-in
> signals. The VHF has a DSC-out and apparently the new AIS does too, but it
> does not seem to be documented. The manual mentions once receiver switches
> back and forth between DSC and AIS, but does not mention what sentences it
> sends out or on what outputs. My initial plan is to have the VHF DSC out go
> to the AIS NMEA in and then it can combine DSC messages it hears with
> whatever the AIS picks up. I am planning for now for the AIS to provide
> data for the nav computer and VHF, the cockpit plotter will get the AIS
> info from the AIS and GPS data either from its own receiver or the AIS
> unit, and the APRS will have its own low power GPS so I can turn everything
> off but APRS when I am not on the boat. More to follow, but that is plan so
> far.  One frustration is for some reason the CP180 plotter will NOT take a
> GPS fix on any input but 4800 baud port 3, so even though the AIS will send
> all the GPS data along with AIS on 38K baud, the plotter won’t read the GPS
> sentences at that speed on ports 1 or 2. OpenCPN has no such restriction,
> so one connection will do for that.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-
> 3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0N
> U5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfg
> AJ9xXYQQ=_ks7dn24N4wltJrr3KP19ThiaomyTIiYJ-Xlnjx2sAU=eTG
> JizMookQglg7Hs2N6HVp6Li6O3CWDVddmt4ZQrrs=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My baby stay is on a track.  We tension it with winds above fifteen knots.
We race with a 105% genoa.  When hoisting a spinnaker, my crew releases the
baby stay to do dip pole gybes.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Graham,
>
>
>
> We release the baby stay any time the #1 is in use.   The rest of the time
> it is tensioned, even in the slip.  When the #3 is up, it tacks cleanly
> through the foretriangle.  I have seen the mast pump before and know the
> benefits of the baby stay.  It’s seldom used on the Chesapeake, but it
> definitely serves a purpose.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *G
> Collins via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 25, 2017 21:22
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* G Collins 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34
>
>
>
> I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the
> adjustable babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the
> beginning of the season and then at some random time during the summer
> someone kicks the clutch, and eventually I discover that it isn't
> tensioned.
>
> Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and
> actively use the baby stay.
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C 35-III #11
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> rw8dqNtKm1OvCRYXqq5Jj2TUa4qGK2BRjsl8jgGsRaE=fSiFJSHQLWw5A3HgDv1-
> 7AzMj8lWufLeeqomVllCtC8=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Support

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I've mailed him a check in past years. Send him an email off list:
s...@cncphotoalbum.com and ask for his address.  I have an address for him
in London, Ontario, but I don't know whether it's still current.

Alan Bergen

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 6:15 AM, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fellow Listers,
>
>
>
> Is there an alternative to financially contribute to the list without
> using PayPal.  They have been breached more than once and I won’t take the
> risk with that service.
>
>
>
> Neil
>
> 1982 C 32 FoxFire
>
> Rock Hall, MD
>
> ___
>
>
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
>
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=ZaLwNUD5kDkQuUunG0XPbghK_
> QQ27lC59Y8fCfIJZTs=NWUdos1_v43B3wvQr2FxmJz1vurj0CXBOAgQIBIjMg0=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List AIS for sale soon

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Joe:

Talk to Fred Street.  I bought mine from him, and I'm very pleased with the
instrument, and with the service Fred provided.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 6:17 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am redoing my nav station with an AIS transponder instead of receive
> only. I will have my AIS receiver for sale soon, so I thought I would let
> you all know before I FleaBay it. It works fine.
>
> See https://www.milltechmarine.com/Smart-Radio-SR161-AIS-
> Receiver_p_167.html
> 
>
> $90 shipped USA, maybe a few more bucks for Canada.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=c9oLZY4KGsEuZ_
> cBJPhmpIFHLqcZLyxvOwyU3yVOI_A=tN6FXoxHU8qf6DvZAVoepsIbVXkV2v
> O2eZ8-aoYcAgs=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced my lead acid batteries with AGM batteries.  Two 6 volt batteries
in series for my house bank, and one 12 volt for my starting battery.  I
also replaced my 35 amp alternator with a Balmar (I think 120 amp) with
external regulator.  My engine is a Yanmar 3gmf, twenty hp, and I have not
had a problem with being under powered because of the higher rated
alternator.  When an alternator is rated at 120 amps, it doesn't mean that
it is always pumping out 120 amps.  That's the maximum it can put out based
on the load.  The load determines how much current is drawn.  I have
refrigeration, and I have replaced all of my lights (cabin and running
lights) with LED bulbs.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 11:01 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I talked to a Nova-Cool rep at one time who said that typically a 100w
> solar panel could keep one of their 12v refrigerator system operating
> indefinitely.  There are too many variables to say this absolutely but lets
> assume the rep was right.  The Nova-Cool system is based on a Danfoss
> compressor which is pretty ubiquitous, has plenty of parts and service
> knowledge.  I have and Alder-Barbor system which is based on the Danfoss
> compressor.  I'm quite satisfied and would recommend that you consider a
> Danfoss unit.
>
> Lets consider some hypothetical numbers based on the rep's info.  If a
> 100w panel were %100 effective and operated for 8 hours, you would get
> 800w-hrs of power per day.  800w divided by 12v = 67amp-hrs.  67 divided by
> 24hrs = 2.8amps current draw on average.
>
> That kinda gives you a ball park for what type of loads you'll be facing.
> Round up to 5amps/hr if you like for margin.  5 *24=120AHr per day.  A
> typical automotive size lead-acid battery has ~100AHrs capacity and you
> don't want to discharge below 50% so a minimum of 2 batteries in parallel
> (200AHr) would be required as your house battery bank to run only your
> refrigerator 24 hours a day with only a 100w solar panel.  If you are not
> on the boat you probably don't need the fridge on so the solar would keep
> the batteries topped up and if you are on board then you are probably
> starting the engine to at least get in and out of port (or on and off the
> hook).
>
> Lets assume that you run the engine a cumulative total of 1 hour per day
> and you have a minimum size alternator of 35 amps.  Lets also assume that
> it is putting out the full 35amps during the entire hour (it doesn't
> because output current is based on engine rpm).  Lets also assume that the
> charging efficiency of the batteries is 100%.  You can see pretty quickly
> that 35amps per day is not going to keep up with the 120amp (or even the
> 67amp) per day load of your refrigerator.  So now you have options, run the
> engine longer or get a larger alternator.
>
> You have to be careful that the alternator charge current is not going to
> exceed the charge rate for the type of battery which you have.  Lead acid =
> 25% of capacity.  Gel = 30%, and AGM = 40%.  So if you have 2 auto style
> AGM batteries at ~100 amps each then your bank is 200AHrs and you should
> limit your max charging current to 80amps.  At 80 amps and 1 hour of run
> time per day you're getting closer to being able to keep up with the needs
> of your refrigerator.
>
> AGM does not NEED to be charged at a higher rate but it CAN be.  AGM does
> need to be charged at a slightly different voltage profile otherwise
> gassing can occur and since it is AGM once the gas is gone it can't be put
> back in.  Even with a higher capacity alternator you will still need an
> external voltage regulator which would allow you to select the AGM
> profile.  Almost all battery chargers, alternators and solar controlers
> will charge a lead-acid (as a base model or by default) and if gassing
> occurs you can and should replace it by watering.  If you have room I
> suggest increasing your bank to the largest available lead-acid
> configuration and sizing the charging equipment as applicable.  IMO You'll
> get more bang for your buck and save yourself a bunch of other
> complications.
>
> Obviously there are a lot of variables but you should be able to apply
> your own needs and expected usage.  As a point of reference I have ~450Ahr
> on bank 1 and ~200AHr on bank 2.  I have 200w solar and a 90amp
> alternator.  I've been able to go on multi week trips and have never pulled
> into port because of a need for shore power or ice.  In my case water is
> the first limiting necessity (I have ~70 gallons) followed in the far
> distance by a need to pump my holding tank (~150 flushes).
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Oct 14, 2017 11:50 AM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> I previously lamented engine problems on my 1982 C 34.  I had the
>> original Yanmar 3GMD.  The problem was leaking oil from the intake 

Re: Stus-List New Engine, now what size alternator

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Get the larger alternator.  Also, remember that AGM batteries are taller
than lead acid batteries.  You'll also need a new charger that can charge
AGM batteries.  Get a charger that has a switch for use with AGM, gel or
lead acid batteries.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 8:50 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I previously lamented engine problems on my 1982 C 34.  I had the
> original Yanmar 3GMD.  The problem was leaking oil from the intake manifold
> caused by serious blow back.  There is also a transmission problem, where
> it doesn't always go into gear.
>
> So the decision has been made to put a new engine in, and as someone
> mentioned over capitalize the boat.  But we sail to the outside of
> Vancouver Island and up north to where engine problems would be a super
> pain.  (Soon I will post information about the engine and extra parts in
> case anyone is interested.  It has an almost brand new exhaust riser on it
> built by Gartside.)
>
> The old engine is out and we are now sound insulating the engine
> compartment.
>
> The boat currently has an ice box but putting in refrigeration is high on
> the list.  Getting ice rapidly becomes a challenge as you head off.  This
> would imply more battery power and an alternator to keep it going.  We are
> looking at a Beta 25 for which you can get a 75 or 120 amp alternator.
> Because of limited battery space I'm thinking of using AGM batteries which
> you can suck more amps out of.
>
> Has anyone got some words of wisdom and/or experience with this?
> Including what is the minimum amount of available amp hours you need?  The
> water is cold up here and it usually doesn't get too hot.  It seems with
> AGM batteries you need a fair bit more charging capability.
>
> Although the refrigeration project is a little further off I don't want to
> but too small of an alternator now.
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> Victoria, B.C.
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=XGof74pLEND1qFaKWhayB3-
> Emn9Lav4WhEvam_xO4uA=DesOVq9iSgUZdqDCfyQTcaS9Gd-oIih8XnHBfOPlmJw=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Winterizing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here's a link to BoatUS Boaters' Guide to Winterizing:

https://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/winter/winterizing.pdf?utm_source=membership_medium=email_campaign=coop-eline-1017

-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fwd: Annapolis Boat Show Sale!!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fall Annapolis Show Sale At Defender Marine Outfitters!


*Click on text and images below to discover some Great Deals. *Can't view
the images? Click here

to see them.
*Please add **boatn...@defender.com ** to your email
address book so that our future Defender Great Deals notices won't end up
in your junk or bulk mail folders.*
[image: New Products From Defender]

[image:
Annapolis Boat Show Sale at Defender]

[image:
Order your Free 2017 Marine Buyers Guide Today!]

[image: Anchoring]

[image:
Deck and Cockpit]

[image:
Electronics]

[image:
Maintanance]

[image:
Navigation]

[image:
Marine Plumbing]

[image:
Sailboat Hardware]

[image:
More great deals at Defender]

Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I don't know why you need a pre-feeder.  Pre-feeders are only needed if you
don't have slugs or slides on the luff.  Once the main is up, you just need
something to close the entry slot.  Then when you drop the main, it stays
in the track.  Am I missing something?

I, too, use the Tides Marine Strong Track.  It's expensive, but well worth
the money.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 1:42 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not what you asked about, but if you end up doing an upgrade, I suggest
> Tides Marine Sailtrack System.
>
> https://www.tidesmarine.com/index.php?route=product/category=363
> 
>
> I installed this system on my 34 almost two decades ago and it worked
> great.  I now have it on my 42, and I can hoist the main nearly to the top
> without a winch.  It’s a great system.
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 28, 2017 4:18 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?
>
> OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track
> with slides?
>
> Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's
> mainsail slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T"
> shaped.  Slugs go into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.
>
> Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  https://www.mauripro.com/us/
> product/SPIRFMA.html
> 
>
> This is a slide:  http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-
> 29493-218604.html
> 
>
> Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-
> sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html
> 
>
> I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot
> or attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any
> that simply go into the "T" shaped slot.
>
> I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could
> simply put in the slot.
>
> May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal
> slide.  :(
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> --
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> fnJOaFt7oX8vkqE5oSCF2Q3mFV5U7RhMEecCOuWIn8U=kqKaqfR-TS-zx9DM0ya2rEraULW-
> iYtlHFFXs7szf1A=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrication

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Fred:

I just lubricate the O-ring on the pump with silicon grease that I got at a
plumbing supply store (Morlan Plumbing in Tigard)

Alan Bergen.

On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 3:32 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you listen to what Peggy Hall says, use Teflon-based thick grease
> (SuperLube). Don’t put it into the bowl; rather, unscrew the  pump and put
> it there from the back end. It should last a year  or so.
>
>
>
> Any oil in your holding tank would only create clogs.
>
>
>
> Compare e.g. this: https://forums.sailboatowners.
> com/index.php?threads/peggy-using-canola-oil-in-marine-
> toilet.187676/#post-1402530
> 
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Fred
> Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 28, 2017 18:25
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Toilet lubrecation
>
>
>
> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up
> the pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being
> compatible with the rubber parts.
>
>
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> kjdfZjIpugr106gynhrj2xZ3d0vHRPDpMvxyPb1sZL0=
> XfU9x4cpmYvfhChstzbEwFaWnC15nj-VWcWqSmPFJJ8=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Check to see whether the oil leak is coming from your dipstick.  If it's
loose, that's probably the source.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 2:33 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> I continue to try and understand what is wrong with my engine without
> paying more good money.  And I have started looking for a new motor.
>
> First the problem.  The engine recently started to leak a fair amount of
> oil and to start poorly.  We spent a lot of time trying to find exactly
> where the leak was from and I had thought it was the head gasket.  The
> local mechanic, Charles at Gartside, said he really didn't think it would
> be the head gasket as he had never seen an oil leak from one.  We cleaned
> the engine with brake cleaner, got some florescent tracing dye, put it in
> the engine and let it run for an extended period.  Although we some some
> oil leak never saw the florescence with a black light.
>
> Regardless we decided it must be coming from the intake manifold.  Of
> course the leak is where it is almost impossible to get to but where the
> leak occurs there aren't too many options.  The intake manifold can get too
> much oil in it if there is blowback increasing air pressure in the valve
> and rocker arm cover.  So, while the engine was running I pulled off the
> breather hose which runs from the cover to the manifold.  And there was
> pressure and there was oil which blew all over.
>
> Now for the first question.  Everything I read says this is a result of a
> worn engine - rings, cylinder walls, etc. which leaks air into the
> crankcase building up pressure.  Has anyone ever seen a different reason
> for this?  I had a compression test done about 8 months ago and all was
> fine then.  But that was then.  My take is a 37 year old raw water cooled
> engine is not worth that kind of repair, albeit it only has 2,000 hours on
> it.
>
> Second question.  I'm currently looking at a Yanmar and a Beta engine.
> Any comments?  The Beta is cheaper.  Also they sell a 25 HP which seems
> about right for the boat.  Both appear too wide to get in on my C 34.
> Anyone have experience with this?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> fN9fpTwZU8i43n_UqFHnZ08Jo-E_5-Nir7QXmWd9Lbg=
> hxL87ZP2j1ICU9zsXDJgbyaQW3tUT1RtaqkHXLP4UKM=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Decide what the service is worth to you, and then send a little more.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:24 AM, David Kaseler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just made a small contribution. This is my first because I have no
> understanding about what costs are associated with this service so it has
> been hard for me to determine what amount would be appropriate. Maybe a
> ballpark figure about Stu's expenses and/or a suggested contribution amount
> would be helpful to some.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always
> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we
> should all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift
> received.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ditto!
>
> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far
> outweigh your contribution.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the
>> list:
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s
>> probably everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some
>> money.  Many years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific
>> email lists, Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out
>> of both the goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a
>> bit of masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves
>> our financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>
>> So pony up; I just did.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=FIVY0yGgS1cE-u_-
> vlP5BNJwMU6Iq1zrwaaZjxoLWYk=GWf2pinPwTOv9oifChCfZyhuFKgW35
> 9q0mQfkpA2Fvg=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Supporting Stu

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Stu usually acknowledges contributions on the web site.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 11:09 AM, John via CnC-List 
wrote:

> You know, when I first joined. I made a contribution, and I have always
> wondered why it was not acknowledged. This list is a great gift and we
> should all support it, but an email should be sent out saying gift
> received.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 1:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ditto!
>
> Please help Stu maintain the list.  The benefit you receive will far
> outweigh your contribution.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 12:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just happened to notice this text at the bottom of the last post on the
>> list:
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> I urge everyone who has benefitted from this list (I think that’s
>> probably everyone reading this…) to click on the link and send Stu some
>> money.  Many years ago, when SailNet decided to end their brand-specific
>> email lists, Stu picked up the baton and set up this amazing resource out
>> of both the goodness of his heart, and his own pocket.  Maybe there was a
>> bit of masochism, involved, too…   But in any case, he needs and deserves
>> our financial support to help him continue to provide this service.
>>
>> So pony up; I just did.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_
> 0P2VVMTEWruFXufdiLe-VP_h2GZ_mJClVASrh4Ftic=cFUHiBbKYCFlQVdb8whL4o_
> 12cQo1Nr2QVswPUxgDEA=
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

With a Max-prop, the transmission should be put in reverse, while the boat
is moving forward,  This feathers the prop, and keeps it from turning past
the feathered position.  Good for all engines.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 5:29 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Neil,
>
>
>
> I keep my transmission in reverse after setting my folding prop.  This
> holds the shaft in place.  I have heard and read that Yanmar does not
> recommend using reverse.   Perhaps that only applies to the fixed prop,
> like Joel mentions.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *schiller
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 18, 2017 19:15
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* schiller 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Transmission position while sailing
>
>
>
> OK, gang.  I know this has been discussed before but help me out.  With
> the Universal M-25XPB in Corsair, the manuals said to shift he transmission
> into reverse after shut down while sailing.  Withe the new Yanmar in Grace
> (C 35, Mark III), what is the prevailing wisdom as to transmission
> selection after shutdown while sailing.  I instinctively put the
> transmission in reverse but can not find any Yanmar documentation as to
> what they recommend.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
> "Grace"
> White Lake, Michigan
> Scheduled for haulout 6 October
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=8IrJGVHR_
> O6pHH5TnKiOsyw6SEr0INRwNhDJt647Riw=DpjnL3lGutkgWvUTD1GiPZo7dDzHGp
> y_Idte5BtrY6g=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heaters

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced mine with another Raritan.  The bottom of my old one rusted
out.  The new ones are plastic on the outside- won't rust.  I bought
mine from Columbia Marine Exchange in Portland.  Cheaper than Defender.
They can probably have it drop shipped to you.  Check out their web site,
and give Kim a call.  If you get a different brand, check the dimensions
carefully, or it may not fit through the hatch.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk 3 Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 8:10 AM, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with
> heat exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat
> exchanger.  I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800
> dollars or a new Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's
> experience in this area may be???  Would appreciate any feedback.
>
> Glenn Gambel
> Wind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=NmCF_
> ffXa8d9TmzsikduEF59yQoVHJk7UGLRhBj26jI=1S_i0V1zVDMsDmdFTqHZMwEGwrykiy8ek
> Fyv68ShAhs=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Neil:

I responded directly to your email address.  Check your spam file.

Alan

On Thu, Sep 14, 2017 at 4:32 AM, schiller via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> I have an ST60 display unit available from the old Redwing 35 (as well as
> Speed and Wind).  I didn't try to remove any transducers.  The new boat
> came with i50/i60 instruments.
>
> Make me an offer.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
> "Grace"
> White Lake, Michigan
>
> On 9/13/2017 10:41 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a new (used) display.  I tried a new transducer, and that
> didn't cure the problem.  I also checked all wiring from the transducer to
> the display.
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Sep 13, 2017 at 6:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Alan,
>>
>> What exactly are you looking for? The thru-hull depth sounder? Display?
>> Something else?
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__roninrebuild.blogspot.com_=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4=eIF8X8ejTlkvrRl8eN8woM5Zq8qnpGpLov7Z4keioj4=>
>>
>> On Sep 13, 2017, at 9:27 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have a Depth sounder they want to sell or give away? I'm
>> looking for a Raymarine
>> ST50, ST60 or ST60+
>>
>> --
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4=ei31g5YE0junQ4UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc=>
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
>> pal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
>> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
>> _vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4=ei31g5YE0junQ4
>> UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc=
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwMDaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=ojQIQC0gFUbor84fnsV4iRAFeDokAcW1BqhoUTlC6XI=2kTh-BoqVocIEWm1m3tHJWVk8Jsf4QVLEHdxY9UMoLE=>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
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> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> ojQIQC0gFUbor84fnsV4iRAFeDokAcW1BqhoUTlC6XI=2kTh-BoqVocIEW
> m1m3tHJWVk8Jsf4QVLEHdxY9UMoLE=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Re: Stus-List Depth Sounder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I'm looking for a new (used) display.  I tried a new transducer, and that
didn't cure the problem.  I also checked all wiring from the transducer to
the display.

Alan

On Wed, Sep 13, 2017 at 6:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Alan,
>
> What exactly are you looking for? The thru-hull depth sounder? Display?
> Something else?
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__roninrebuild.blogspot.com_=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4=eIF8X8ejTlkvrRl8eN8woM5Zq8qnpGpLov7Z4keioj4=>
>
> On Sep 13, 2017, at 9:27 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a Depth sounder they want to sell or give away? I'm
> looking for a Raymarine
> ST50, ST60 or ST60+
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4=ei31g5YE0junQ4UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc=>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=_
> vNM6yAaofhDZb0QiQ1ykrWHLQsuV7QkfD3iuEoRDv4=
> ei31g5YE0junQ4UcQ5cyHb8bD0ZLqia-uZN53HFcRuc=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Stus-List Depth Sounder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a Depth sounder they want to sell or give away? I'm
looking for a Raymarine
ST50, ST60 or ST60+

-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Temperature sensor sounds like a good idea.

Alan Bergen

On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 7:33 PM, coltrek via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:

> That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise
> /race. I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new
> Deep Cycle batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there
> kind of walked me through setting the regulator down to only charging at
> 60% instead of 95%. I don't know why it started to do it in the first
> place, but I think that it might have had something to do with my heart
> interface 2000 acting up. Anyways, after the trip, I reset the heart 2000
> back to factory defaults, and it started working properly again. I'm not
> sure if I should ramp my regulator back up to a higher charging level or
> not. One thing I did after that, is I bought a Balmar regulator temperature
> sensor. I think it cuts the charging back and the load if it gets too hot.
>
>
> Bill Coleman
> C & C 39
>
>
> ---- Original message 
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 9/11/17 22:15 (GMT-05:00)
> To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry
>
> I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns
> the engine over.  I thought it was the starter button.  I'd better check
> that out before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an
> emergency.
>
> Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped
> the chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge.  We
> suddenly smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured
> out.  After closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator
> belt had been slipping,  It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine
> pulley.  Luckily I had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the
> repair was completed.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to
>> get it going it always works but I fear someday it won't
>> I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations
>> you have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000
>> I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100
>> Very confusing
>> I looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to
>> the starter
>> Maybe that's the problem?
>> I'd like to know myself
>>
>> Dan
>> 1970 Cv hull 148
>> Ipswich
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mastry (www.mastry.com
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.mastry.com=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=SGrZZ_M01hbwr7besw5UXJCtj2WtZJtybSOomm4IR7w=_OEKXpYAlh8nO3LIUkWQ-oN0vUlnKr3H3wi0SQSREFY=>)
>> does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five this weekend and
>> got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + shipping. Mastry's
>> the best! They always have the best price, they even beat eBay and the
>> shipping is super fast.
>>
>> That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my
>> 3gm30F's serial number.
>>
>> Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the
>> Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty.
>>
>> The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It
>> would sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going.
>>
>> -Francois
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=SGrZZ_M01hbwr7besw5UXJCtj2WtZJtybSOomm4IR7w=9mItIVeR4b5RVurRijjLdqAqU4omH4HMZbMyHcVcpBs=>
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution 

Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns
the engine over.  I thought it was the starter button.  I'd better check
that out before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an
emergency.

Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the
chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge.  We
suddenly smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured
out.  After closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator
belt had been slipping,  It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine
pulley.  Luckily I had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the
repair was completed.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get
> it going it always works but I fear someday it won't
> I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations
> you have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000
> I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100
> Very confusing
> I looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to the
> starter
> Maybe that's the problem?
> I'd like to know myself
>
> Dan
> 1970 Cv hull 148
> Ipswich
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mastry (www.mastry.com
> )
> does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five this weekend and
> got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + shipping. Mastry's
> the best! They always have the best price, they even beat eBay and the
> shipping is super fast.
>
> That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my
> 3gm30F's serial number.
>
> Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the
> Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty.
>
> The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It
> would sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going.
>
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=SGrZZ_
> M01hbwr7besw5UXJCtj2WtZJtybSOomm4IR7w=9mItIVeR4b5RVurRijjLdqAqU4omH4
> HMZbMyHcVcpBs=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List paint off our hull

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If the hull is gel coat, use rubbing compound, and then wax to seal the gel
coat.

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 4:06 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is your hull gelcoat or painted?  If gelcoat I'd try acetone.  Wear gloves!
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2017-09-07 7:57 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:
>
> we had an excursion with a fish boat and we have a few paint scars to
> show. How can I get the paint off? I have been told that paint stripper is
> not suitable.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=mMiW1iJ_
> qpg6VHZrpKUD0lbiloZl1WvrQ6ja14nGf7E=R0x9-l9SVsRFOM62wm6YuzK3ZZz8BMFvVkf
> pu7mZA64=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Re: Stus-List Grace is home

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Congratulations on your new boat.  I use that locker for sail ties, and for
a spinnaker halyard winch handle.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
'Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 2:04 PM, schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

> We moved the new (to us) 1983 C 35, Mark III from Muskegon, Michigan to
> Whitehall, Michigan Saturday.  Nice day for the move, started out sunny and
> mild with fairly light winds out of the West with a fairly light chop.  We
> sailed on a close reach up the lake.  The winds picked up a little and most
> of the trip was in 5-8 kt (true) winds out of the WNW with about 1 foot
> waves.  One sail set and off we went.  She sailed well and we made it with
> no problems.
> Spent Sunday cleaning and straightening things out.  The boat had not had
> the decks washed in at least 5 years.  We went through a full spray bottle
> of fairly concentrated Simple Green with a scrub brush (the deck brush was
> useless).  She looks nice now.
> We do have a portlight leak on the port side.  We will only be in the
> water for another 4 weeks so I have tried to seal it for that time and plan
> on portlight replacement in the spring.  We will see if I can get it sealed
> for the fall.  We do have a winter cover so it shouldn't be a problem for
> the winter.
> One question for the Mark III crowd.  What do you use the locker just
> forward of the mainsheet track for?  It looks like it is only deep enough
> for sail ties.  What else do others use if for?
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
> "Grace"
> White Lake, Michigan
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> dpX41tCYv6w0RK27VbfCYUOPWUmGKOQ=TDX9H8kP_wPbkUg5Xg9CMxyG4lfaW1vXBQ0yQTS
> CNPw=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Newport, RI weeknight racing?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Kevin:

Try contacting:

Eastern Point YC, Gloucester, MA 978.283.3520

Boston YC, Marblehead, MA, Race Committee Chair Karen Tenenbaum,
bycr...@bostonyachtclub.net

Also use the following link for race information throughout New England:
https://www.regattaman.com/calendar.php

-
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Aug 31, 2017 at 2:51 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We are visiting family on the east coast in about 2 weeks and spending a
> few days in Newport, RI on the wharf. Does anybody know of any weeknight
> racing that happens out of the Newport Yacht Club or somewhere nearby? It
> would fun to get out on the water for an evening.
>
> Does anybody else here have a boat in Newport RI?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
> pal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> 3vA3eRjbZklUdBCXX9LWHM6eduA7mMbc_V5g8aBf5Vg=7_La5PafbcMNzM
> Ky7xvFrrMEDudGnbU0H2cJh19oFQo=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 MKI - DIY Lifelines

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you race, check the regs about using Amsteel.  I think the concern was
about the attachments; not the Amsteel itself.  Amsteel may no longer be
acceptable as race rigging for lifelines.  If you use wire, make sure it is
not covered.  Use bare wire.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Aug 31, 2017 at 7:47 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The surveyor when I bought the boat said I could replace the standing
> rigging myself one wire at a time. Of course I had a lot of gusto when I
> first purchased her and balls to hoist atop and unclip 37 year old standing
> rigging. Today I have the phone number of a rigger who was recommended to
> inspect my original rig and lifelines, expecting a hefty price tag I am
> keen on the idea of at least doing the lifelines myself. Digging around I
> found these hand-crimping lifeline fittings from Bosun http://www.
> bosunsupplies.com/Lifeline-Fittings-Hand-Crimp/
> 
>  anyone
> had any experience replacing their lifelines and any lessons they could
> pass on? I’m sure having the rigging replaced could mean a deal on the
> lifelines, but wanted to explore my options.
>
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI
> Hull 615
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
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> tc2gC3wdiwQAB1HRf3KBpQm3V7QXGnfemYNvrnU=DTZK6JP1qNsgrVKyariabpN8fUZtdZ
> YYxIwC7e8O1HE=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Remember to get a survey.  The money you spend will more than make up for
any problems that a surveyor may find.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 12:12 PM, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with
> me
>
> here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:
>
> https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html
> 
>
> I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star
> cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good.
> I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.
>
> I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a
> bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power
> boat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisle
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
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> dHmAvSMqwI03HEsj5WZBJJDyx_mcXFk5q4Sa9FXdjks=cSUacWprVjJqGwfNoHgI_
> yB2m47BB7ca33LKQf2p0KE=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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Stus-List C 35 Mk III

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

-- 
I use my boat for racing and for cruising.  It is a very comfortable boat
for cruising, and a very competitive racer.  I race it on the Columbia
River, and on the ocean along the coast of Washington and down the straits
of Juan de Fuca.  One summer I cruised for three months in the Puget sound
area, and in the San Juan and Gulf Islands.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
9:15 PM (1 hour ago)
to Ronald
Surprising.  I thought it was a great boat for racing and cruising.  Just
need to get those padded covers.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL
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Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced my original 35 amp alternator with a much larger capacity one.
Defender had a sale on a Balmar alternator with an external regulator.
With so much more drain (refrigeration, computer, MFD, etc.) it was a no
brainer to make the change.  My engine is a 3GMF (20 hp).

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 3:09 AM, Matti Airas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I just had a similar charging issue. The motor is a Yanmar 3gm30f. The
> alternator was not original. With Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and
> Electrical Manual" (highly, highly recommended!) I was able to trace the
> issue to a faulty charging regulator. We weren't close to home at the time,
> so I had call in a boat electrician to have it replaced. He just replaced
> the old alternator with a little-used second-hand Hitachi one. Couldn't
> really be picky at that point.
>
> As far as I understand, with ACRs, even any automotive charger from a car
> parts store would do, as long as it mechanically fits and the RPMs are in
> the correct ballpark. With your biggish house bank, you might want to get a
> slightly heftier alternator while at it.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matti
> C 36 "Hurma"
> Helsinki, Finland
>
>
> On 13 August 2017 at 06:38, Dave via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Good evening all,
>>
>> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via
>> the alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically,
>> the (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this
>> is not sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new,
>> group 31 @ 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
>> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
>> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>>
>> Thanks!  Dave.
>>
>> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
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>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List 3gm fuel issues

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If the fuel doesn't pump as David suggested, you might have to turn the
engine a little.  Release the compression levers, and turn the engine a
little by hand.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk iiio Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Aug 6, 2017 at 2:07 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi doug- It has been a while, but I think I remember that problem.  On my
> old boat’s 3GM the lift pump on the side of the engine was challenging.
> There was a screw on top to loosen and a small lever oriented vertically
> that manually pumped it.  The hard part was that you had to really pull
> hard on the lever to actually pump fuel and eventually, pumping would get
> fuel out of the loose screw.  The first few times I did it, I moved it up
> and down and nothing happened until I gave it more force on the upswing.
> Once you have fuel there, you can bleed at the injectors.  That should be
> as simple as pulling the release levers and cranking the engine.  I rarely
> had to actually loosen the injectors themselves.  Dave
>
> On Aug 6, 2017, at 4:01 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A friend in the club has a LF38 with a 3gm yanmar. Ran it out of fuel, now
> can't get it bled. We have fuel to the last chance fuel filter, but I can't
> find the bleed screw on the injector pump. Have tried to bleed the injector
> lines at the injectors to no avail.
> Anybody familiar with this we would love to hear.
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus
> Lf38
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
>
>
> ___
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>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Removing wood bungs

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Drill a hole in the bung till the drill bit contacts the screw that's
beneath the bung.  Then screw in a sheet metal screw.  When the sheet metal
screw contacts the screw that's under the bung, continue to screw it in,
and the bung will slide out.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 9:52 AM, John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know if C used glue or varnish on interior wooden bungs?
>
> Have to remove 7 of them and just trying to get a handle on the job so I
> am doing as little damage as possible.
>
> Thank you
>
> John on Enterprise
>
> 33 MK II
> Sarnia Ontario
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List foot pumps in galley

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My boat has knockoff Whale Galley foot pumps.  They look identical to the
Whale pumps. but the mounting is different.  I got them directly from TMC
International, but their web site address no longer works.  You can see
them on ebay here:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.XTMC+Foot+pump.TRS1&_nkw=TMC+Foot+pump&_sacat=0

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Jul 21, 2017 at 8:39 PM, Bill via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Does anyone have an idea what brand the foot pumps (there are 3) are in a
> 1986 Landfall 39?
>
> It is black, and has no company name. The only label says "Made in Taiwan."
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Bill
>
> MYSTY
> 1986 Landfall 39
>
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Update to Broken Mast

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hold out for a new mast.  Then let them total the boat, and buy a new one
for less than the agreed value.of the old one.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jul 13, 2017 at 1:55 PM, schiller via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Corsair is out of the water and safely on her cradle.
>
> I met with the Torresen Service Representative and the Insurance Adjuster
> yesterday.  Autoowners has stated they will authorize repair up to the
> agreed to value of the boat ($24,000).  Torresens is starting the
> estimating process.  They are leaning the new mast approach.  The break is
> pretty rough, so a repair might need to shorten the mast at least a little.
>
> Right now, the list of known items is:
> Mast
> Head Stay (we had to cut it to get the rig stabilized)
> Bulkhead Repair
> Wind instrument head
> Navigation/Anchor/Strobe Light
> Main Sail Track (mine was external T track)
> Repair Jib (we had to cut the #6 luff tape off to get Jib off)
> Repair Main (we had to cut slides off to get main stowed)
> Roller Furler (my Harken MK III foils may not be available.  The furler is
> OK).
>
> Separate from the insurance claim, I will have them reinforce the port
> upper chain plate and the mast collar didn't separate from the Spartite
> when they pulled the mast.  It appears that there is some wet core around
> the partners.  I have them dig out the wet stuff and fill it with epoxy.
>
> I'll keep the list informed as to resolution.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> being repaired in Muskegon, Michigan.
>
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Crab Pot Incident

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

We were racing along the coast of Washington, in the Oregon Offshore Race
from Astoria, Oregon to Victoria, BC., doing quite well I might add.  The
entire coast of Washington is "littered" with crab pots.  In the early
evening, off Grays Harbor, we tacked onto a crab pot.  It took about
forty-five minutes for us to get loose when we managed to grab the line
that was holding the crab pot.  My crew grabbed the line with a boat hook,
and leaning over the stern, managed to cut it loose.  Crab fishermen have a
string of pots tied together, with two floats attached so that they can
grab the line between the floats and haul in the crab pot.

By he time we got loose, the fleet had passed us by, and we still had
something attached to the bottom of Thirsty, as our speed had dropped quite
a bit.  We also did an accidental gybe which broke the gooseneck
(discovered that the next morning) and probably caused the boom to crack.
By the time we got close to Race Rocks, we had fallen so far behind that we
decided to just call it quits and motor into Victoria.  In the morning we
found pieces of the gooseneck on the deck, so it was good that we quit when
we did.

When we started the engine, we weren't sure whether there was anything
attached to the shaft, but we took a chance, and everything seemed okay.
Even with the crew watching for crab pots, there's always a chance that we
might catch one.  I seem to recall that Cool Change caught a crab pot, just
before the start of the same race, but in a different year, and Frank had
to dive down and get it loose.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 7:20 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Alan,
>
> Would you be willing to share more about the crab pot incident?  I moved
> to Tampa from Chicago and bought a bigger C  As you can imagine, the
> whole crab pot thing is both new and disconcerting to me.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C 37/40+
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
> ---- Original message 
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 7/12/17 1:05 AM (GMT-06:00)
> To: C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thinking about a new boom - where to start?
>
> I replaced my boom, a few months ago, with a Selden boom.  All lines are
> internal, and the outhaul has an internal 3:1 purchase.  This was the
> result of a cracked boom when we got hung up on a crab pot.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 10:11 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Some of you may remember a thread about a year ago where I was soliciting
>> opinions on how to get a single-line reefing system to work on S.V. Safari,
>> my C 34.
>>
>> I can say that I got it working well enough to take us safely to Tofino
>> and back, along with a year’s worth of great sailing. The single line
>> reefing made reefing with an inexperienced crew much safer and smoother.
>> However, it’s not perfect. The reefing lines (along with the outhaul,
>> topping lift, etc.) had to contend with a fair amount of friction and
>> frozen hardware that will never come off, and as such our reefs tend to not
>> be as crisp as they could/should be.
>>
>> So I’m contemplating what a new boom might look like. Something with
>> internal reefing lines, outhaul, topping lift, etc.. I’m not sure where to
>> start. What are my options?
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
>> pal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
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>> BYOilVheiyj16_brEUI4Ano6OxOZ4i_jBFZEiDk2ZVY=OtMPONNZIxtsRX
>> 6WEmADFO1OvFoS6yPFWGdoyQDtC3I=
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXY

Re: Stus-List Thinking about a new boom - where to start?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced my boom, a few months ago, with a Selden boom.  All lines are
internal, and the outhaul has an internal 3:1 purchase.  This was the
result of a cracked boom when we got hung up on a crab pot.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 10:11 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some of you may remember a thread about a year ago where I was soliciting
> opinions on how to get a single-line reefing system to work on S.V. Safari,
> my C 34.
>
> I can say that I got it working well enough to take us safely to Tofino
> and back, along with a year’s worth of great sailing. The single line
> reefing made reefing with an inexperienced crew much safer and smoother.
> However, it’s not perfect. The reefing lines (along with the outhaul,
> topping lift, etc.) had to contend with a fair amount of friction and
> frozen hardware that will never come off, and as such our reefs tend to not
> be as crisp as they could/should be.
>
> So I’m contemplating what a new boom might look like. Something with
> internal reefing lines, outhaul, topping lift, etc.. I’m not sure where to
> start. What are my options?
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
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> 1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=BYOilVheiyj16_brEUI4Ano6OxOZ4i_jBFZEiDk2ZVY=
> OtMPONNZIxtsRX6WEmADFO1OvFoS6yPFWGdoyQDtC3I=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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