RE: Design Kit

[Tim Krause]

I've got a email into Andy on the distribution of the router bit profiles 2017. 
 I'll update the group when I know more.

Tim

On Aug 29, 2018, 12:23 AM, at 12:23 AM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Agreed Tim last thing we need is any trouble with legacy I imagine they
>wouldn’t be too expensive to buy the profiles from them.
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>Krause
>Sent: Wednesday, 29 August 2018 10:06 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Cc: Ray Leaman
>Subject: Re: Design Kit
>
> 
>
>I had an agreement with Tracy Anderson to not distribute the router bit
>profiles in this group.  He wanted anyone in the group that is
>interested in the profiles in cad format to contact him.  We need to
>honor this agreement until otherwise instructed.
>
>Tim
>
>
>
>On Aug 28, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Bawdsey64  wrote:
>
>Èb;Hi Ray
>
>The Legacy Design Kit comprised one to one profile templates of many of
>the Magnate Cutters, and they were on three or four clear plastic
>sheets so you could draw straight on to graph paper (supplied by
>Legacy).  
>
>The plastic templates were bought in and when Legacy were unable to get
>the plastic sheets produced out of house they did have a set of the
>profiles in an industry graphics format so you could draw using
>something like Coral Draw. The reason they stopped selling the product
>was that their supplier's Laser packed up and the Laser that the
>company bought to replace their old one burnt the plastic sheet when
>producing the Legacy Templates as it was much higher powered.
>
>Someone in the group should have that graphics package.
>
>Now I do not have it as sold my business, which was selling Legacy
>products in Europe, and I do not have a Legacy machine.  If you have no
>luck finding the graphics package get back to me and i will see if I
>have it on an old computer or someone I know has it.
>
>Regards
>
>Roger in UK
>
>Èb;
>
> 
>
>Èb;
>
>From: Ray Leaman
>
>Received: 28/08/2018 22:55:50 +01:00
>
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
>Thanks for your reply Dexter.  So the design kit was for making a
>"drawing" on paper of what the stock will look like once cut rather
>than applying it to the stock per se.  I assume it was for spindle
>turning for the most part?
>
> 
>
>Are the Magnate profiles on the attachment you sent full size or scaled
>down?
>
> 
>
>On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 5:35 PM, Dexter Bland 
>wrote:
>
> 
>
>Ray,
>
>A design kit is no longer available from Legacy or anywhere that I am
>aware of. It was a clear set of templates of the router shapes that
>Magnate sells that you could use to draw out the cuts on scaled paper
>to refine your design. You could then use your drawing to lay out your
>cuts on the machine. Attached is a PDF of the router shapes available
>from Magnate.
>
>db
>
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RE: Design Kit

[Tim Krause]

That file has been available for a while. It's for use with a cad programs.  
You can turn the profiles into library components to use.

What is not is an exact copy of the templates that where offered in the past.  

The way I see it now, is the router bit profiles could be used to manufacture 
router bits and that was the primary reason that we were not to make the file 
available.  

The file is not blocked behind passworded area and is available to all with a 
cad programs to make a working template to have laser cut.  


Tim

On Sep 4, 2018, 4:26 PM, at 4:26 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>I was looking at legacys sight 
>https://lwmcnc.com/customer-support-files/
>
> 
>
>The design kit profiles are there I just clicked on them followed the
>prompts and was looking at them all
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: Bill Bulkeley [mailto:bulke...@mmnet.com.au] 
>Sent: Friday, 31 August 2018 12:19 PM
>To: 'legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com'
>Subject: RE: Design Kit
>
> 
>
>Go to the magnate sight copy and paste the picture of the router bit
>you want, enlarge or reduce it in size till it is the correct size to
>match its recorded cutting dia print it, cut it out with scissors stick
>it to your piece of acrylic and cut the shape with your scroll saw or
>laser that’s what I would do if I didn’t already own a design kit
>
>And couldn’t buy the profiles.
>
>But I can’t see why legacy would not supply the profiles to make your
>own design kit they no longer support the old mills and you’re not
>making it to sell its just for your own privet use so they have
>absolutely nothing too loose and they are always saying they have
>wonderful customer support so it should be all good .
>
>Our group has had differences of opinions with legacy in the past but
>time has passed and I would like to think we all have moved on now and
>bear each other no ill will I for one have.
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
>view...@gmail.com
>Sent: Friday, 31 August 2018 10:10 AM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Re: Design Kit
>
> 
>
>So-o-o.  If you can't get the design kit anywhere and you have an
>agreement with Legacy not to put it out on line and they won't sell it
>to those with manual machines (ie they want someone to call them for a
>cad version???)  what are people who just got manual legacy ornamental
>mills supposed to do?  I do my own drawing having learned engineering
>drawing while developing my patternmaking skills.  I don't use cad. 
>Seems odd to me that Legacy controls who can get Magnate cutter
>profiles. Obviously you have reasons for the agreement with Tracy. 
>Seems to me though that they should be more willing to help out
>historical owners of legacy manual mills and users groups if it is
>something they have readily available.  What am I misising?. 
>
> 
>
> at 8:06:20 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
>I had an agreement with Tracy Anderson to not distribute the router bit
>profiles in this group.  He wanted anyone in the group that is
>interested in the profiles in cad format to contact him.  We need to
>honor this agreement until otherwise instructed.
>
>Tim
>
>On Aug 28, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Bawdsey64 
>> wrote:
>
>Èb;Hi Ray
>
>The Legacy Design Kit comprised one to one profile templates of many of
>the Magnate Cutters, and they were on three or four clear plastic
>sheets so you could draw straight on to graph paper (supplied by
>Legacy).  
>
>The plastic templates were bought in and when Legacy were unable to get
>the plastic sheets produced out of house they did have a set of the
>profiles in an industry graphics format so you could draw using
>something like Coral Draw. The reason they stopped selling the product
>was that their supplier's Laser packed up and the Laser that the
>company bought to replace their old one burnt the plastic sheet when
>producing the Legacy Templates as it was much higher powered.
>
>Someone in the group should have that graphics package.
>
>Now I do not have it as sold my business, which was selling Legacy
>products in Europe, and I do not have a Legacy machine.  If you have no
>luck finding the graphics package get back to me and i will see if I
>have it on an old computer or someone I know has it.
>
>Regards
>
>Roger in UK
>
>Èb;
>
> 
>
>Èb;
>
>From: Ray Leaman
>
>Received: 28/08/2018 22:55:50 +01:00
>
>To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
>
>Thanks for your reply Dexter.  So the design kit was for making a
>"drawing" on paper of what the stock will look like once cut rather
>than applying it to the stock per se.  I assume it was for spindle
>turning for the most part?
>
> 
>
>Are the Magnate profiles on the attachment you sent full size or scaled
>down?
>
> 
>
>On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 5:35 PM, Dexter Bland  > wrote:
>
> 
>
>Ray,
>
>A design kit is no longer available from Legacy or anywhere that I am
>aware of. It was a clear set of templates of the router shapes that
>Magnate 

Re: Legacy 1500EX manual?

[Tim Krause]

What is your full name and which machine do you own?  Are you an original owner?

Tim

On Sep 4, 2018, 2:07 PM, at 2:07 PM, view...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 at 6:21:24 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've taken care of this request.
>>
>> -Tim
>>
>> IF it's not too much of an imposition could you tell me where I could
>get 
>> a copy of this manual?  Thanks
>>
>
>Ray 
>
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Re: My LOM collection and small journey

[Tim Krause]

Both of those should go with the machine.  Both are built by Legacy.  If I 
recall, one should have a 60 tooth gear and the other a pair of 30 tooth gears. 
These where never meant to be taken apart.  Unlike the other gears, these have 
a hole in the center that has bearings in them.  I hope that helps.

Tim

On Aug 31, 2018, 10:51 AM, at 10:51 AM, 4 Jim Carpenter 
 wrote:
>Question on Pitch gears. Which pitch gears are part of the Left Hand
>Spiral
>and the Reversing RH gear sets ?  Should those pitch gears also be a
>part
>of the full set as duplicates ?
>
>On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 1:23 PM Tracy Smith 
>wrote:
>
>> Hello again Bill,
>>
>> The rotary table that looks a bit different is actually the same as
>the
>> others.  It just hasn't had the board attached to it.  I is actually
>"brand
>> new" in the box when I got it.  All the parts are still in bags.  I
>look
>> forward to doing a project using it.
>>
>> Tracy
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 25, 2018 at 11:31 PM Bill Bulkeley
>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You certainly have a nice collection of LOMs there, I’m sure you
>will
>>> have no trouble finding new homes for the ones you don’t need. Looks
>like
>>> one of the rotary tables might be for the revo model it looks
>narrower than
>>> the others Richard might be interested if your selling it and if he
>doesn’t
>>> have one also rails too I know he wants to extend his revo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you for sharing, anything LOM related is welcome to share on
>the
>>> group I’m sure everyone agrees
>>>
>>> I look forward to more and all postings from you
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
>>> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tracy Smith
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, 26 August 2018 2:39 PM
>>> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
>>> *Subject:* My LOM collection and small journey
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I know I just joined the group and I hope you don't mind me sharing
>as
>>> there are not many around me who like this tool as much as I do.  As
>I
>>> mentioned before, just last year I finished my shop.  As I was
>looking at
>>> used tools in my area, I first discovered a LOM about one year ago. 
>I went
>>> and looked at the first one I saw, but it was just too much for me. 
>It
>>> would have definitely been one of the most expensive used tools I
>had ever
>>> purchased.  I read up all about these machines, watched tons of
>videos and
>>> learned as much as I could.  I really didn't know they were as old
>as they
>>> are.  Over the next couple of months I looked at 1 or 2 more in my
>area and
>>> it wasn't until I came across a 1500EXL for a great price that I
>decided to
>>> jump in.  That was in January of this year.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> As I started to learn how to use the machine a bit, I realized there
>were
>>> a few key gears missing.  Luckily I live relatively close to Legacy
>>> Woodworking and went down to talk to them about replacement parts. 
>Some
>>> parts you can still get but it was a bit pricey.  So I instead
>starting
>>> looking at more used machines in my area.  At this point I had been
>looking
>>> at LOMs for 4-5 months.  A 1000EXS came up in my area.  I spoke to
>the
>>> owner a few times.  It had many of the missing parts I needed so I
>bought
>>> it for parts.  It's in great shape, it included a router and I was
>able to
>>> fill in some gaps on my 1500.  I was feeling great.  Shortly after
>that, a
>>> 900 came up for sale.  The owner had tried to sell it for a few
>months.  He
>>> was the original owner.  He had moved on to a CNC and hadn't used
>the 900
>>> for a couple years.  I told him I was mostly looking for parts and
>he gave
>>> me a great deal.  I didn't know what perfect condition it was in
>until I
>>> got it home and really looked at it.  It had a digital meeting,
>duplication
>>> kit, rotary table.  For the price, I was feeling super happy.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> WELL, just last month someone in my area was selling a 1200 with a
>>> Performance CNC upgrade on it.  I had to look at it.  After some
>>> negotiation and talking to my very supportive wife, I got it.  It
>had
>>> several parts left over after the CNC upgrade was made.  Just this
>last
>>> week I took the two day training class Legacy does for their CNCs. I
>know
>>> my machine is pretty out of date but the ideas are all the same and
>the
>>> software used to run it is also pretty much the same.  So I loved
>the class
>>> and the people at Legacy are great.  I've loved tinkering with my
>newest
>>> machine.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I still have my Gazebo to build and am excited to show the group
>when it
>>> is done next year.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just tonight I think I figured out a way to mill long posts on my
>1200
>>> without having to use parts from my other machines.  The parts was
>the my
>>> main reason for acquiring the different machines.  I'll have to now
>find
>>> good homes for my extra machines in the coming months. :) As I
>settle in 

Re: Design Kit

[Tim Krause]

The agreement stemmed from the concerns of competition from others in the 
market.  The router bits that Magnate sell are Legacy's designs and only 
manufactured by Magnate.  Having the profiles out there in dxf format simply 
makes it too easy to copy them.  At least this was part of the original 
conversation that lead to the agreement. It may be time to possibly renegotiate?

If you contact Tracy Anderson at Legacy and ask for the router bit profiles in 
cad format, you can find free cad programs to make your own templates with the 
bits you own.  Do you have a paper or CD/DVD catalog from Magnate?  They have 
very clear dimensions of each Legacy bit they sell. You could draw each profile 
with that information.  I realize this is not easy.  

I'll give Tracy or Andy next week and see what the current thought process is.

Tim



On Aug 30, 2018, 5:09 PM, at 5:09 PM, view...@gmail.com wrote:
>So-o-o.  If you can't get the design kit anywhere and you have an
>agreement 
>with Legacy not to put it out on line and they won't sell it to those
>with 
>manual machines (ie they want someone to call them for a cad
>version???)  
>what are people who just got manual legacy ornamental mills supposed to
>
>do?  I do my own drawing having learned engineering drawing while 
>developing my patternmaking skills.  I don't use cad.  Seems odd to me
>that 
>Legacy controls who can get Magnate cutter profiles. Obviously you have
>
>reasons for the agreement with Tracy.  Seems to me though that they
>should 
>be more willing to help out historical owners of legacy manual mills
>and 
>users groups if it is something they have readily available.  What am I
>
>misising?. 
>
> at 8:06:20 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I had an agreement with Tracy Anderson to not distribute the router
>bit 
>> profiles in this group.  He wanted anyone in the group that is
>interested 
>> in the profiles in cad format to contact him.  We need to honor this 
>> agreement until otherwise instructed.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Bawdsey64 > 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Èb;Hi Ray
>>>
>>> The Legacy Design Kit comprised one to one profile templates of many
>of 
>>> the Magnate Cutters, and they were on three or four clear plastic
>sheets so 
>>> you could draw straight on to graph paper (supplied by Legacy).  
>>>
>>> The plastic templates were bought in and when Legacy were unable to
>get 
>>> the plastic sheets produced out of house they did have a set of the 
>>> profiles in an industry graphics format so you could draw using
>something 
>>> like Coral Draw. The reason they stopped selling the product was
>that their 
>>> supplier's Laser packed up and the Laser that the company bought to
>replace 
>>> their old one burnt the plastic sheet when producing the Legacy
>Templates 
>>> as it was much higher powered.
>>>
>>> Someone in the group should have that graphics package.
>>>
>>> Now I do not have it as sold my business, which was selling Legacy 
>>> products in Europe, and I do not have a Legacy machine.  If you have
>no 
>>> luck finding the graphics package get back to me and i will see if I
>have 
>>> it on an old computer or someone I know has it.
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>> Roger in UK
>>>
>>> Èb;
>>>
>>>
>>> Èb;
>>> From: Ray Leaman
>>> Received: 28/08/2018 22:55:50 +01:00
>>> To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
>>> Thanks for your reply Dexter.  So the design kit was for making a 
>>> "drawing" on paper of what the stock will look like once cut rather
>than 
>>> applying it to the stock per se.  I assume it was for spindle
>turning for 
>>> the most part?
>>>
>>> Are the Magnate profiles on the attachment you sent full size or
>scaled 
>>> down?
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 5:35 PM, Dexter Bland >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Ray,
>>> A design kit is no longer available from Legacy or anywhere that I
>am 
>>> aware of. It was a clear set of templates of the router shapes that
>Magnate 
>>> sells that you could use to draw out the cuts on scaled paper to
>refine 
>>> your design. You could then use your drawing to lay out your cuts on
>the 
>>> machine. Attached is a PDF of the router shapes available from
>Magnate.
>>> db
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>Groups 
>>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>send an 
>>> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
>>> .
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>
>>> .
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/
>>> group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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>>> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
>>> .
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RE: Legacy 1500 EXL For Sale

[Tim Krause]

Gee whiz Mike , if it will make you feel better,  I will take yours for free! 
:-)

On Aug 30, 2018, 4:53 AM, at 4:53 AM, Michael Kratky  
wrote:
>Hard sell,
>
> 
>
>Agree with Tim, there’s one very similar near me here in upstate NY
>that the inherited owner has been trying to sell unsuccessfully the
>last several years for $2300, unfortunately I’d say that 90% of them
>sit unused gathering dust somewhere including mine. 
>
> 
>
>I even unsuccessfully tried donating mine to 3 different regional
>woodworking clubs that didn’t want it. 
>
> 
>
>Michael
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>Krause
>Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2018 3:55 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Legacy 1500 EXL For Sale
>
> 
>
>Hello,
>
>That is a very well equiped machine.  It has the recommend Porter-Cable
>router with the Eliminator Chuck, a rotary table, all the gears and I
>can see the .25x gear set and I'm assuming it has the 2x gears. Also I
>see the linear drive, the dust catching bag and a stand. This would
>have most likely all come as one unit.
>
>A low estimate for this machine based on previous local sales would be
>about $1300 and reaching a maximum of around $2300.00.  You could ask
>for more, but you would likely be Holding onto it for a while.
>
>As far as the manual goes, when the new owner purchases the machine,
>they will be able to get the manual through me here in this group. 
>Good luck with the sale.
>
>Tim
>
>On Aug 29, 2018, at 7:55 PM, NZ  wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
> 
>
>I'm new to the group as I recently inherited a Legacy 1500 EXL.  I wish
>I had the time (and space) to use it, but unfortunately I don't have
>either.  I don't know a lot about it but I attached a few pictures. 
>I'd appreciate any help in confirming if I have all of the appropriate
>accessories, getting a copy of the owners manual (digital format would
>be great), as well as estimating a sell price.  I'm in the
>Minneapolis/St. Paul MN area.
>
> 
>
>I appreciate the help!
>
>NZ
>
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Re: Legacy 1500 EXL For Sale

[Tim Krause]

Hello,

That is a very well equiped machine.  It has the recommend Porter-Cable router 
with the Eliminator Chuck, a rotary table, all the gears and I can see the .25x 
gear set and I'm assuming it has the 2x gears. Also I see the linear drive, the 
dust catching bag and a stand. This would have most likely all come as one unit.

A low estimate for this machine based on previous local sales would be about 
$1300 and reaching a maximum of around $2300.00.  You could ask for more, but 
you would likely be Holding onto it for a while.

As far as the manual goes, when the new owner purchases the machine, they will 
be able to get the manual through me here in this group.  Good luck with the 
sale.

Tim


On Aug 29, 2018, 7:55 PM, at 7:55 PM, NZ  wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I'm new to the group as I recently inherited a Legacy 1500 EXL.  I wish
>I 
>had the time (and space) to use it, but unfortunately I don't have
>either.  
>I don't know a lot about it but I attached a few pictures.  I'd
>appreciate 
>any help in confirming if I have all of the appropriate accessories, 
>getting a copy of the owners manual (digital format would be great), as
>
>well as estimating a sell price.  I'm in the Minneapolis/St. Paul MN
>area.
>
>I appreciate the help!
>NZ
>
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Re: Design Kit

[Tim Krause]

I had an agreement with Tracy Anderson to not distribute the router bit 
profiles in this group.  He wanted anyone in the group that is interested in 
the profiles in cad format to contact him.  We need to honor this agreement 
until otherwise instructed.

Tim




On Aug 28, 2018, 3:14 PM, at 3:14 PM, Bawdsey64  wrote:
>Hi Ray
>The Legacy Design Kit comprised one to one profile templates of many of
>the Magnate Cutters, and they were on three or four clear plastic
>sheets so you could draw straight on to graph paper (supplied by
>Legacy).  
>The plastic templates were bought in and when Legacy were unable to get
>the plastic sheets produced out of house they did have a set of the
>profiles in an industry graphics format so you could draw using
>something like Coral Draw. The reason they stopped selling the product
>was that their supplier's Laser packed up and the Laser that the
>company bought to replace their old one burnt the plastic sheet when
>producing the Legacy Templates as it was much higher powered.
>Someone in the group should have that graphics package.
>Now I do not have it as sold my business, which was selling Legacy
>products in Europe, and I do not have a Legacy machine.  If you have no
>luck finding the graphics package get back to me and i will see if I
>have it on an old computer or someone I know has it.
>Regards
>Roger in UK
>
>
>
>
>
>
>From: Ray Leaman
>Received: 28/08/2018 22:55:50 +01:00
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Thanks for your reply Dexter.  So the design kit was for making a
>"drawing" on paper of what the stock will look like once cut rather
>than applying it to the stock per se.  I assume it was for spindle
>turning for the most part?
>
>Are the Magnate profiles on the attachment you sent full size or scaled
>down?
>
>On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 5:35 PM, Dexter Bland [mailto:dexterbl...@gmail.com]> wrote:
>
>
>Ray,
>A design kit is no longer available from Legacy or anywhere that I am
>aware of. It was a clear set of templates of the router shapes that
>Magnate sells that you could use to draw out the cuts on scaled paper
>to refine your design. You could then use your drawing to lay out your
>cuts on the machine. Attached is a PDF of the router shapes available
>from Magnate.
>db
>
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Re: Definition Question Bowel/plate

[Tim Krause]

I'm not old enough to stop sweating the small stuff yet!  I do appreciate the 
share!

On Aug 26, 2018, 10:17 AM, at 10:17 AM, Jim AKA Mattox  
wrote:
>Here we go again, items name - expand our vocabulary !  My wife says
>all my
>great new designs are "STUFF" and
>she does so looking at the "ITEMS".  So post a picture of the platter,
>plate, saucer, bowl or bucket will equal the best description already
>in a
>dictionary ! I'm too d--- old to keep learning.
>
>On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 12:08 AM Tim Krause 
>wrote:
>
>> What a bunch of comedians in this circle!  It was a sincere question.
> I'm
>> pretty sure we have all had those moment when you start out making a
>plant
>> stand and it turns into a pen.  The only person that will ever know
>will be
>> the turner and those he jokes with.
>>
>> Turning has been turned into a bit of a cult level, very good
>> observation.
>>
>> So I'm good with the items name being what the individual who makes
>the
>> item gets to decide what it is.
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>> On Aug 22, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Patrick Salter 
>wrote:
>>>
>>> And if you go through the bottom you have a lamp shade!
>>>
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>>
>
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RE: Definition Question Bowel/plate

[Tim Krause]

What a bunch of comedians in this circle!  It was a sincere question.  I'm 
pretty sure we have all had those moment when you start out making a plant 
stand and it turns into a pen.  The only person that will ever know will be the 
turner and those he jokes with.

Turning has been turned into a bit of a cult level, very good observation.  

So I'm good with the items name being what the individual who makes the item 
gets to decide what it is.  

Thanks all!



On Aug 22, 2018, 5:32 PM, at 5:32 PM, Patrick Salter  
wrote:
>And if you go through the bottom you have a lamp shade!
>
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Re: Max diameter stock capacity

[Tim Krause]

The 1200/1800 models will work if you make a small modification.  Everything 
else would require any where from minor to much more significant 
modification/addition.  

If you can find an old Wood Chuck model you could make even a larger diameter 
than what you are asking for by changing the four corner pieces with longer 
pieces of plain round cold rolled steel, but those machines are hard to find. 

TimOn Jul 28, 2018 3:37 AM, thie...@labutte.com wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> thank you for accepting me in this group.
> I am new to this and planning to buy a machine.
>
> I have a need to work on 11"1/4 diameter pieces.
> I know the 1000, 1200, 1800 are stated as 11" diameter max, but Is there 
> there a chance I could still fit my pieces in those machines?
>
> Thank you!
>
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RE: Have 20 plus pictures I will be learning to post for those WTB members

[Tim Krause]

Last time I checked it was 10 mb's up from 5 mb's.

On Jul 19, 2018, 9:10 PM, at 9:10 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>I think it’s about 2 to 3 mega-pixels isn’t it ?
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Friday, 20 July 2018 1:56 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Have 20 plus pictures I will be learning to post for those
>WTB members
>
> 
>
>Hello 
>
>One short note. there is a limit of pix. size  when posting to the
>group.  Please make your pictures reduced sized in order to get them to
>the group. this and or make many one or two pictured posts.
>
>They say a picture is worth 1000 words. So lets see/hear what  you've
>got... ;-)
>
> 
>
>C.A.G.
>
> 
>
>On Thursday, July 19, 2018, 11:50:15 PM EDT, carpenter.62...@gmail.com
> wrote: 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>I will need help in the descriptions and my questions - First I have a
>Plunge router and the plastic Legacy base used on what I am told is
>known the Legacy 1000 (steely)
>
>and two parts that can accompany the Basic Machine and gears, indexes,
>a multiplier and a duplicator.  Am told that some may have been pieces
>to the Wood Chuck.
>
>My desire would be to sell the Basic Machine as an item and add any
>requested parts before selling piecemeal.  If there is a piece that you
>would like to buy, I will start a list of those with their offer.  The
>basic buyer will have first opportunity as add on then the list get
>offers to buy.  Questions and guidance welcome. Ron 4 Jim
>
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>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
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Re: Problem with posting pictures

[Tim Krause]

Send the photos to my email address- artmarb...@comcast.net .  I'll check for 
anything odd.

Tim

On Jul 4, 2018, 10:39 AM, at 10:39 AM, Patrick Salter  
wrote:
>I have tried several times to post a picture on the group site and
>google keeps kicking it back saying it is undeliverable. I followed the
>directions in the post concerning posting pictures and nothing seems to
>work. Is it just me? I even tried sending the picture less then a meg
>in size. 
>
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Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World

[Tim Krause]

Hi Mac, you are right.  For the moment I'm unable to edit or place anyone on 
the map.  It's on my list of things to fix or replace. 


On May 30, 2018, 10:17 PM, at 10:17 PM, MWF  wrote:
>Hi Tim,
>
>
>I went to "The Map" link and was able to check "Pins" all over the
>world.  So, I'd say it works as it should.
>
>When I went to the second link in your email - the Add a Pin one, I
>found it unresponsive.
>
>
>Mac
>_
>_
>
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: Tim 
>Sent: May 31, 2018 12:07 AM 
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World 
>
>Thanks for trying, but the map feature is not worjking at the moment. 
>Where are you located?
>
>
>-Tim
>
>
>
>On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 at 9:20:42 AM UTC-7, varmit72 wrote:
>
>Just tried to add a marker to the map but was unable to do so
>
>On Sunday, July 7, 2013 at 2:54:45 PM UTC-6, Tim wrote:
>
>I accidentally deleted this thread when I was trying to remove all the
>off topic messages in the thread.   
>
>We have a hidden group map that shows where the owners of Legacy
>Ornamental Mills are located around the World.  
>
>The map can be found here: http://ornamentalmills.com/map/usermap.html
>
>For instruction on how to place your marker on the map:
>http://ornamentalmills.com/map/map_directions.html
>
>This is also a great way to introduce yourself to our group.  I feel
>the map should be open to all owners of Legacy's equipment.  CNC
>members don't be shy. 
>
>-Tim
>
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Re: Ornamental Mills Around the World

[Tim Krause]

The map is in coma at the moment...meaning it's not dead, but it can't be seen 
at the moment.


On May 12, 2018, 8:06 AM, at 8:06 AM, cole  wrote:
>Looking for members near Nashville,TN can't get the map to pull up on
>my  pad. Am Idoing something wrong?
>
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Re: What do you think of this???

[Tim Krause]

Rose engine work? Hahahaha

On May 6, 2018, 7:46 AM, at 7:46 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
<legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> Here is another picture of the box set up.
>C.A.G.
>
>On Saturday, May 5, 2018 12:52 AM, Curt George <curt.geo...@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
> 
>
> Hello everyone, Just got home form work.
>I was thinking the bowl was 3"- 4"And I still think between centers
>will work out well.
>Bill a soft touch, is a wooden or plastic part that is mounted to the
>tail stock to keepthe wood of the turning form being damaged from the
>point of the live center. But I've seen people use a dowel as a bar to 
>hold a vace or bowl in place on a face-plate or lathe chuck while
>turning,  this is what I plan to try...Once the bowl has been turned, I
>plan to hold it on the Legacy by the way of the indexing hub, and a
>dowel mounted  from the center/ tail stock, to hold the work in
>placewhile cutting the details in the wood.
>The turn table is a good attachment to the LOM .  I'm Not saying that
>the turn table will not work, All that I am saying is I think another
>method would work better for me... (I hope?) ;-)
>I would think that by the use of router blocks, (to raise the height of
>the router), and the indexing head to make the pattern I would  think
>it would work nicely.At least that is my plans, We will see? More
>latter.
>Have a good  Night/day.C.A.G. 
>
>On Friday, May 4, 2018 10:20 PM, Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>
>wrote:
> 
>
>#yiv5148403959 -- filtered {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2
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>{color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv5148403959
>span.yiv5148403959EmailStyle28
>{color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv5148403959
>span.yiv5148403959EmailStyle29
>{color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv5148403959
>span.yiv5148403959EmailStyle30
>{color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv5148403959
>.yiv5148403959MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv5148403959 filtered
>{margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv5148403959
>div.yiv5148403959Section1 {}#yiv5148403959 Ps do you  all think it’s a
>jar or a knob? Bill      
>From:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com]
>On Behalf Of Bill Bulkeley
>Sent: Saturday, 5 May 2018 12:17PM
>To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: RE: What do you think ofthis???    I don’t see a shift but
>defiantly each cut isshallower as it gets to the centre, I would only
>do the pattern on the legacythe rest I would do on the lathe not to say
>it couldn’t be done on the legacy Ijust think it would be easier on the
>wood lathe just my opinion    Bill      
>From:legacy-or

RE: What do you think of this???

[Tim Krause]

I'm with you bill.  This is a rotary table job on a stock legacy.  Are the 
pockets getting smaller as the pattern goes to the center?  I think I see shift 
in the pattern as it goes to the center.  Is that right?  To me it looks like a 
3" diameter piece.

Tim

On May 4, 2018, 5:01 PM, at 5:01 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Am i missing something doesn’t the router bit have to be vertical to
>the lid to produce the pattern how can putting it between centres work?
>if you can mount the router at 90 degrees you could plunge cut the
>pattern then
>
> 
>
>Please explain what I’m not getting
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Friday, 4 May 2018 10:47 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: What do you think of this???
>
> 
>
>Hello and Good-morning
>
> 
>
>Yes the rotary table might work, 
>
>But the way I think  I will try it, 
>
>Is to mount it between centers. using a soft touch,( piece of wood or
>other meteral to hold the part from the tail-stock end onto the work )
>Then you 
>
>could just do the indexing like a spindle, starting close to the
>center, and bumping the router bit into the wood, then raising the bit,
>and repeating the process
>
>until you have done.
>
>once you lay out the pattern, on the work piece and the indexing plate,
>it should be a  slow but easy job. 
>
>this bowl looks like it was cut with a 1/2" or 3/8" router bit, but any
>bit would give you 
>
>some interesting contrast.
>
>As far as the tapper  goes, that could all be done with your stop
>collars, as you raise the bit up, for the next set of cuts, just move
>your stop collar in, "X" amount to adjust 
>
>for the angle, as long as everything is done the same, it will look
>uniformed.
>
> 
>
>I do plan to try this idea for my self, very soon. I will let you all
>know if it works out for me, or not.
>
>I feel pretty good it will work.
>
>more latter.
>
>C.A.G.
>
> 
>
>On Friday, May 4, 2018 3:59 AM, Bill Bulkeley 
>wrote:
>
> 
>
>Interesting curt a job for the rotary table that pattern, what do you
>think
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Friday, 4 May 2018 2:09 PM
>To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
>Subject: What do you think of this???
>
> 
>
>Inline image
>
>Sadly  I can not take the credit for making this. but I think it is
>pretty neat, 
>
>I know that something like this could be done on the Legacy.What do you
>people think?
>
>How would you make this?
>
>I have my own ideas and do plan to try...
>
> 
>
>C.A.G.
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
>-- 
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> 
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RE: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following setup

[Tim Krause]

The longer link worked for me the second time I tried it. There is about two 
minutes of static to start so maybe try waiting? It made no sense that the link 
worked the second time.

On Apr 18, 2018, 5:48 PM, at 5:48 PM, MWF  wrote:
>Bill,
>I, too, was unable to get either link to work.
>Thanks for trying.
>Mac
>_
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: Bill Bulkeley 
>Sent: Apr 18, 2018 8:32 PM 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>Subject: RE: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following
>setup 
>
>Ok im trying another way keep watching the email don’t know if it will
>work please let me know
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Turan
>Tekin
>Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2018 9:33 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following
>setup
>
> 
>
>​I had trouble with the videos, are they stored anywhere else I could
>try?  :
>
> 
>
>This link was 47 seconds of static:
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/su4ag2he31ruqr3/woodchuck%20training%20video%203%20contour%20duplicator.VOB?dl=0
>
> 
>
>I could not open the public file at this link:
>https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public
>
> 
>
>On Tue, Apr 17, 2018 at 5:54 PM, Bill Bulkeley 
>wrote:
>
>https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public
>
>try this one too it might work i always have trouble with this please
>anyone let me know if any of these links works the video goes for like
>20 minuets
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>Bulkeley
>Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2018 7:43 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: RE: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following
>setup
>
> 
>
>Hi welcome to the group not sure why anybody else hasn’t answered your
>email yet, i have an old video on template work using the woodchuck
>legacy mill it’s not the same mill as yours but the principle is the
>same will try and post a link to it.
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/su4ag2he31ruqr3/woodchuck%20training%20video%203%20contour%20duplicator.VOB?dl=0
>
> 
>
>It might work let me know again welcome
>
> 
>
>Bill 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Turan
>Tekin
>Sent: Tuesday, 17 April 2018 11:29 AM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following setup
>
> 
>
>Hi everyone!
>
> 
>
>I'm a new member here, thanks for letting me join the group. 
>
> 
>
>I'm a woodworking hobbyist in Atlanta, GA. I bought my LOM 15 years
>ago, set it up and moved to Europe before ever milling a single piece!
>I've just got it out of storage a few weeks ago and am anxious to get
>to work!
>
> 
>
>I have the 1000EX version (I think!?!) - no motor, just hand cranks. 
>
> 
>
>Apparently, I only partially finished setting it up and I have bags of
>parts for the horizontal and vertical clamps but no instructions on how
>to install them. 
>
> 
>
>I'm also interested in setting things up for contour following- I
>understand the premise of a pin following a template but can't seem to
>find any specifics on the setup or mounting systems. 
>
> 
>
>I'm a visual learner, so any images of your setups would be incredibly
>helpful. 
>
> 
>
>I'm looking forward to learning from you all and hope to have something
>to share soon. 
>
> 
>
>Thanks!
>
> 
>
>Turan 
>
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>
> 
>
> 
>
>Virus-free. www.avg.com 
>
> 
>
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Re: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following setup

[Tim Krause]

Can you take a photo of your mill so I can get you the correct manual.  
Template turning does work, it just take practice.  There is very little 
documentation on the technique.  The video bill pointed out is a very good 
reference.

Tim

On Apr 17, 2018, 7:54 PM, at 7:54 PM, Tekin Turan <ttek...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Hi Tim-
>
>Cannot find the manual. Is it available online somewhere you could
>point me?
>
>For templates, my thought was to do round work like a copy lathe. A few
>of the posts I’ve read here lead me to believe that isn’t something the
>LOM is designed for. 
>
>> On Apr 17, 2018, at 9:22 PM, Tim Krause <artmarb...@comcast.net>
>wrote:
>> 
>> Do you have the manual?  That should cover assembly of the horizontal
>and vertical clamps.
>> 
>> Are you planning on using the templates to turn something or for
>doing some flat work?  
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> PS. Welcome to the group.
>>> On Apr 16, 2018, at 6:28 PM, Turan Tekin <ttek...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Hi everyone!
>>> 
>>> I'm a new member here, thanks for letting me join the group. 
>>> 
>>> I'm a woodworking hobbyist in Atlanta, GA. I bought my LOM 15 years
>ago, set it up and moved to Europe before ever milling a single piece!
>I've just got it out of storage a few weeks ago and am anxious to get
>to work!
>>> 
>>> I have the 1000EX version (I think!?!) - no motor, just hand cranks.
>
>>> 
>>> Apparently, I only partially finished setting it up and I have bags
>of parts for the horizontal and vertical clamps but no instructions on
>how to install them. 
>>> 
>>> I'm also interested in setting things up for contour following- I
>understand the premise of a pin following a template but can't seem to
>find any specifics on the setup or mounting systems. 
>>> 
>>> I'm a visual learner, so any images of your setups would be
>incredibly helpful. 
>>> 
>>> I'm looking forward to learning from you all and hope to have
>something to share soon. 
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> Turan 
>> 
>> -- 
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Re: Need help with Clamping systems and contour following setup

[Tim Krause]

Do you have the manual?  That should cover assembly of the horizontal and 
vertical clamps.

Are you planning on using the templates to turn something or for doing some 
flat work?  

Tim

PS. Welcome to the group.

On Apr 16, 2018, 6:28 PM, at 6:28 PM, Turan Tekin  wrote:
>Hi everyone!
>
>I'm a new member here, thanks for letting me join the group. 
>
>I'm a woodworking hobbyist in Atlanta, GA. I bought my LOM 15 years
>ago, 
>set it up and moved to Europe before ever milling a single piece! I've
>just 
>got it out of storage a few weeks ago and am anxious to get to work!
>
>I have the 1000EX version (I think!?!) - no motor, just hand cranks. 
>
>Apparently, I only partially finished setting it up and I have bags of 
>parts for the horizontal and vertical clamps but no instructions on how
>to 
>install them. 
>
>I'm also interested in setting things up for contour following- I 
>understand the premise of a pin following a template but can't seem to
>find 
>any specifics on the setup or mounting systems. 
>
>I'm a visual learner, so any images of your setups would be incredibly 
>helpful. 
>
>I'm looking forward to learning from you all and hope to have something
>to 
>share soon. 
>
>Thanks!
>
>Turan 
>
>-- 
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Re: Ornamental Mills Questionnaire

[Tim Krause]

I was Happy to see your name.  I thought you had moved on and sold your 
machine.  

Thanks for your comments on apathy.  In a few more weeks I might have more 
disparaging data.

Tim


On Apr 16, 2018, 1:40 AM, at 1:40 AM, Brigitte Graham 
 wrote:
>Tim,
>That is an appalling return to your questionnaire, thank goodness the
>group
>weren't voting in a Presidential election!
>Apathy comes to mind.!
>Mine was returned as soon as it had been read.
>I guess these communications are read by a lot of 'lurkers', who are
>quite
>happy to do their own thing, not requiring any help and learning as
>they go?
>On behalf of the "regulars" I thank you for maintaining the group, and
>just
>being there for all of us when we need guidance.
>Cheers
>Legacy Widow
>
>On 16 April 2018 at 08:25, Tim  wrote:
>
>> Thank you everyone for your participation. There where 44 out of 447
>> members that helped out. The questionnaire is now closed.
>>
>> In a couple weeks I'll have a summary that might interest other
>members.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
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>>
>
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Re: REVO POWER

[Tim Krause]

I'd rather see you use something other than the main gear to bolt this too.  I 
don't see how this is going to help, but you got my attention.  I hope it works 
out the way you want.

On Apr 10, 2018, 9:53 AM, at 9:53 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim 
>Here area couple of pics of the gear and pulley, as you can see I have 
>removed the hub, next stage will be to fasten them together and will
>post a 
>another pic when done
>Richard
>
>On Tuesday, April 10, 2018 at 2:59:14 PM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I'm trying to think this through.  What is the goal that you are
>trying to 
>> reach?  Will you be driving the leadscrew from your spindle motor or
>are 
>> you just trying to make it fast to add the spindle motor when needed?
>>
>> Sorry about the number of responses, it really difficult go get
>people to 
>> communicate when they don't feel qualified to answer and look like a 
>> fool... I got over rthat problem a long time ago!
>>
>> Tim
>> On Apr 10, 2018, at 4:03 AM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim
>>> On second thoughts I think you are right, --my next bright idea is
>to 
>>> turn an alloy ring to fit the gear allowing clearance for the teeth
>but 
>>> allowing the 24 holes to be seen and used. Then drill three holes in
>the 
>>> ring ,pulley and gear drill and tap the gear and fasten all three
>together. 
>>> A permanent fix.//??
>>> I did hope to get more responses  from the group, have they all
>stored 
>>> their LOM's away??
>>> Richard
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 9, 2018 at 9:31:11 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote:

 I don't see much of an advantage to using magnets to hold the
>pulley to 
 the gear.  I would be concerned that as speed increases, the pulley
>could 
 come off.  If your pulley is held on by the spindle screw and you
>have a 
 couple index pins poking through the main drive gear, I think you
>got a 
 solid idea.
 On Apr 8, 2018, at 11:51 PM, Richard Ellis 
>wrote:
>
> Hi All 
>  Going back to my original post of the Pic of my drive to the
>Revo. 
> The pulley at the present time is fastened to a metal plate that I
>
> milled to fit the headstock. However my latest thought is to make
>it easier 
> to put on and off by using magnets (three off) set into the 'V'
>pulley and 
> metal pins that fit the holes on the normal gear the same
>system 
> that Tim uses on the Reciprocater  that he made.- Is it a good
>idea or 
> not ?? I have more photos of my converted office desk if any
>interest is 
> shown.  
> Richard 
>
> On Wednesday, April 4, 2018 at 4:24:19 PM UTC+1, Richard Ellis
>wrote: 
>>
>> A pic of the drive to the spindle vari-speed via an inverter  240
>volt 
>> to 414 volt 
>>
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Re: REVO POWER

[Tim Krause]

I'm trying to think this through.  What is the goal that you are trying to 
reach?  Will you be driving the leadscrew from your spindle motor or are you 
just trying to make it fast to add the spindle motor when needed?

Sorry about the number of responses, it really difficult go get people to 
communicate when they don't feel qualified to answer and look like a fool... I 
got over rthat problem a long time ago!

Tim

On Apr 10, 2018, 4:03 AM, at 4:03 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>On second thoughts I think you are right, --my next bright idea is to
>turn 
>an alloy ring to fit the gear allowing clearance for the teeth but
>allowing 
>the 24 holes to be seen and used. Then drill three holes in the ring 
>,pulley and gear drill and tap the gear and fasten all three together.
>A 
>permanent fix.//??
>I did hope to get more responses  from the group, have they all stored 
>their LOM's away??
>Richard
>
>On Monday, April 9, 2018 at 9:31:11 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I don't see much of an advantage to using magnets to hold the pulley
>to 
>> the gear.  I would be concerned that as speed increases, the pulley
>could 
>> come off.  If your pulley is held on by the spindle screw and you
>have a 
>> couple index pins poking through the main drive gear, I think you got
>a 
>> solid idea.
>> On Apr 8, 2018, at 11:51 PM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi All 
>>>  Going back to my original post of the Pic of my drive to the Revo. 
>>> The pulley at the present time is fastened to a metal plate that I
>milled 
>>> to fit the headstock. However my latest thought is to make it easier
>to put 
>>> on and off by using magnets (three off) set into the 'V' pulley and
>metal 
>>> pins that fit the holes on the normal gear the same system
>that Tim 
>>> uses on the Reciprocater  that he made.- Is it a good idea or
>not ?? I 
>>> have more photos of my converted office desk if any interest is
>shown.  
>>> Richard 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, April 4, 2018 at 4:24:19 PM UTC+1, Richard Ellis
>wrote: 

 A pic of the drive to the spindle vari-speed via an inverter  240
>volt 
 to 414 volt 

>>> -- 
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>>> . 
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>
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>>>
>>
>
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Re: REVO POWER

[Tim Krause]

I don't see much of an advantage to using magnets to hold the pulley to the 
gear.  I would be concerned that as speed increases, the pulley could come off. 
 If your pulley is held on by the spindle screw and you have a couple index 
pins poking through the main drive gear, I think you got a solid idea.

On Apr 8, 2018, 11:51 PM, at 11:51 PM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Hi All
> Going back to my original post of the Pic of my drive to the Revo.
>The pulley at the present time is fastened to a metal plate that I
>milled 
>to fit the headstock. However my latest thought is to make it easier to
>put 
>on and off by using magnets (three off) set into the 'V' pulley and
>metal 
>pins that fit the holes on the normal gear the same system that
>Tim 
>uses on the Reciprocater  that he made.- Is it a good idea or not
>?? I 
>have more photos of my converted office desk if any interest is shown. 
>Richard
>
>On Wednesday, April 4, 2018 at 4:24:19 PM UTC+1, Richard Ellis wrote:
>>
>> A pic of the drive to the spindle vari-speed via an inverter  240
>volt to 
>> 414 volt
>>
>
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RE: Ornamental Mills Questionnaire

[Tim Krause]

Hi Bill,

There is no risk of the group shutting down on my part.  

On Apr 8, 2018, 4:07 PM, at 4:07 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Come on people do you want the group to keep going or not it’s just a
>few simple questions
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>Sent: Sunday, 8 April 2018 7:57 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Questionnaire
>
> 
>
>I've made a decision to keep the survey open another week.  I'm still
>not getting the responses from long time readers that have never
>participated.  Maybe the lack of response is the final answers I'm
>looking for.
>
>Follow the link:
>
>https://goo.gl/forms/SBXInFW46ujkpvBk1
>
>-Tim
>
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>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
> 
>
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RE: Ornamental Mills Questionnaire

[Tim Krause]

I'm getting everyone's.  I even have a few surprise answers that will turn into 
nice little features.

⁣​

On Apr 8, 2018, 6:46 PM, at 6:46 PM, MWF  wrote:
>I did the survey when he sent it out.  
>There was no "reply" via a separate email back to me - saying "Thank
>you for submitting it".
>I trust/hope you got it Tim.
>
>Mac
>_
>_
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: Bill Bulkeley 
>Sent: Apr 8, 2018 7:07 PM 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>Subject: RE: Ornamental Mills Questionnaire 
>
>Come on people do you want the group to keep going or not it’s just a
>few simple questions
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>Sent: Sunday, 8 April 2018 7:57 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Re: Ornamental Mills Questionnaire
>
> 
>
>I've made a decision to keep the survey open another week.  I'm still
>not getting the responses from long time readers that have never
>participated.  Maybe the lack of response is the final answers I'm
>looking for.
>
>Follow the link:
>
>https://goo.gl/forms/SBXInFW46ujkpvBk1
>
>-Tim
>
>-- 
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Ornamental Mills Questionnaire

[Tim Krause]

Hello All,

I'm in the process of a complete overhaul of our official website 
ornamentalmills.com.  I've created a really short questionnaire that I 
hope everyone will take a moment to fill out.  Your answers are private 
and can be anonymous if you wish.


The questions will be up for a week.  Follow the link below.

https://goo.gl/forms/SBXInFW46ujkpvBk1

-Tim


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Curt George

[Tim Krause]

Hey everybody, say Happy Birthday to our group founder and king of all time 
high number of posts!

Tim

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Re: Leadscrews

[Tim Krause]

Most of the metal lathes have a 10 or 20 tpi on the cross-slide. 

For the legacy, I would probably use a thread that is a multiplyer of the width 
of common sized bits that you are using.  All the legacy machines I have ever 
seen only use 5/8-4 tpi.  Anything else and it's been modified by some one.

Tim

On Mar 19, 2018, 1:09 AM, at 1:09 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Hi Tim
>The Woodchuck did not have the 4TPI I think it was around 16 TPI and a 
>normal screw thread-nothing special.
>I would like a finer adjustment than the 4TPI. I will have a study of
>metal 
>work lathes. I have a Smart & Brown in my metal
>workshop.very 
>very accurate.
>I have had lots of different metal lathes the best of the lot was a VDF
>
>German made lathe, Had to leave it behind when I moved 
>house---too big and too heavy.
>I am self taught and just play about with machines ???
>Richard 
>
>On Sunday, March 18, 2018 at 6:42:22 PM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> 5/8" 4tpi just like your woodchuck had.
>> On Mar 18, 2018, at 2:59 AM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Further to my question Re: Y leadscrew for the Revo
>>> Roger have you any idea what thread Andy etc. used for the Revo Y
>axis.
>>>  I was just going to use a normal piece of theaded rod like that  on
>my 
>>> Woodchuck--- a bit primitive but it worked even if a little
>sloppy. 
>>> Back lash is the name of the game when using LOM's-- a built in 
>>> problem. !!!
>>> Richard
>>>
>>>
>
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RE: Legacy 1800 for sale $900

[Tim Krause]

Lately the trend I'm seeing is, the longer the machine, the less on return.  

On Mar 19, 2018, 4:58 AM, at 4:58 AM, Michael Kratky  
wrote:
>Most interesting; less than a 1/3 rd of the price for the 1800 recently
>posted for $2750 on EBay in Syracuse.
>
> 
>
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 4:17 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Legacy 1800 for sale $900
>
> 
>
>Hello Michael 
>
>That is a Nice machine and a Very nice price.  Thank you for sharing it
>with us.  Perhaps someone here can use a good mill ?  ;-)
>
> 
>
>C.A.G. 
>
> 
>
>On Sunday, March 18, 2018 11:02 AM, Michael Kratky
> wrote:
>
> 
>
>
>
>Larry Bucklan
>
>
>
>March 10 at 5:56am
>
>Legacy 1800 Ornamental
>
>$900
>
>Los Angeles, CA
>
>Bought this from a commercial shop for a job that didn’t happen. Not
>really interested enough to figure it out. Had the cross feed motor
>repaired and fabricated the clamps that hold the router in place. I
>think all the gears are here but having never used it, don’t know for
>sure. I have about $1200 in it but will sell it for $900 to get it out.
>The router is NOT included. Legacy no longer supports these manual
>machines. I bought some threaded two part nuts from them but it was a
>hassle. There are user groups around with some avid enthusiasts who
>were helpful and very friendly.
>
>
>Image may contain: indoor
>
>
>Image may contain: indoor
>
>
>No automatic alt text available.
>
>
>No automatic alt text available.
>
>
>Image may contain: indoor
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
>jwb...@windstream.net
>Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 10:49 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Legacy 1800 for sale $900
>
> 
>
>It looks like this is a closed group, only the members of the group
>will be able to see the post.  Maybe you could use the clipping tool
>and post the picture to the group.
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>  _  
>
>From: "Michael Kratky" 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 10:00:37 AM
>Subject: Legacy 1800 for sale $900
>
> 
>
> 
>
>Just saw this on facebook, it’s in Los Angles, seller says he’ll ship,
>very down to earth price unlike many I’ve seen lately, even has the Z
>axis, don’t suspect it’ll be around long. 
>
> 
>
>https://www.facebook.com/groups/1056069081118283/?multi_permalinks=1750337621691422
>
> 
>
>Happy bargain hunting,
>
> 
>
>Michael K
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
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Re: Dust prevention idea

[Tim Krause]

Fantastic, thanks for sharing some real world example.

On Mar 15, 2018, 8:32 PM, at 8:32 PM, rookie  wrote:
>Greetings all, I work my Legacy 900 in the smaller bay of my 3 car
>garage, 
>I hang clear shower curtains on each of the garage door supports when
>using 
>the Legacy, does a great job of reducing dust in the "shop".
>
>On Wednesday, March 14, 2018 at 10:57:40 PM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>>
>> Hi All, 
>>
>> I can't remember if anyone has had this thought before.  On my
>machine 
>> that is on a bench, I have a peg board in the background that has 
>> various tools hanging.  The chips and dust mostly fall to the bench,
>but 
>> I was thinking a simple solution to the chips and dust problem would
>be 
>> to use a roll-up window curtain.  I have them on my windows at home. 
>
>> The are some kind of vinyl designed to "black out" the window.  I had
>
>> Home Depot cut mine to size.  I don't know how long they come in but
>I 
>> think the chips won't stick and those that do, can be easily vacuumed
>up 
>> with the rest of the area and then the drape can be rolled up and the
>
>> tool wall will be clean. 
>>
>> -Tim 
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Dust prevention idea

[Tim Krause]

True story, I installed a retracting shower curtain at a machine shop.  The 
complaint was too much swarf was getting tossed in a walking path after the 
machine was relocated to the location.  Rather than moving the machine, the 
owner said make something that could be pulled out when the machine was in use. 
I used a welding shield ( plastic/vinyl ) and a pipe and formed metal hangers.  
It's still there and working after eight year!

I'm also reminded of someone in this group that mentioned using a harbor 
freight garden shed to enclose the legacy.  Since then, three members in my 
wood turning club have built pvc pipe and heavy guage plastic to make mini 
rooms to enclose thier lathes to keep the dust down to a smaller portions in 
their garage. So now I'm thinking it really good be a viable option for some 
that have to share space with a car.

Tim

On Mar 15, 2018, 7:12 AM, at 7:12 AM, "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
<legacym...@iglide.net> wrote:
>That's a great idea.  I have a couple areas that are large enough, they
>
>would warrant a shower curtain.
>
>Mike OK
>
>
>On 3/15/2018 2:46 AM, jwb764 wrote:
>> Does sound like a good idea.  In adition to that you can mount drawer
>
>> slide to a board on top of your cabiner and set the legacy on that so
>
>> it can easily be pullef out when you need to clean
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7 edge.
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Tim Krause <artmarb...@comcast.net>
>> Date: 3/15/18 1:57 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: Legacy Group <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
>> Subject: Dust prevention idea
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I can't remember if anyone has had this thought before.  On my
>machine
>> that is on a bench, I have a peg board in the background that has
>> various tools hanging.  The chips and dust mostly fall to the bench,
>but
>> I was thinking a simple solution to the chips and dust problem would
>be
>> to use a roll-up window curtain.  I have them on my windows at home.
>> The are some kind of vinyl designed to "black out" the window.  I had
>> Home Depot cut mine to size.  I don't know how long they come in but
>I
>> think the chips won't stick and those that do, can be easily vacuumed
>up
>> with the rest of the area and then the drape can be rolled up and the
>> tool wall will be clean.
>>
>> -Tim
>>
>>
>> -- 
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Dust prevention idea

[Tim Krause]

Hi All,

I can't remember if anyone has had this thought before.  On my machine 
that is on a bench, I have a peg board in the background that has 
various tools hanging.  The chips and dust mostly fall to the bench, but 
I was thinking a simple solution to the chips and dust problem would be 
to use a roll-up window curtain.  I have them on my windows at home.  
The are some kind of vinyl designed to "black out" the window.  I had 
Home Depot cut mine to size.  I don't know how long they come in but I 
think the chips won't stick and those that do, can be easily vacuumed up 
with the rest of the area and then the drape can be rolled up and the 
tool wall will be clean.


-Tim


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Re: milling work, not on a legacy

[Tim Krause]

Joe, is this your machine?  I'd like to see more details of the cutter.  In 
past articles of fine woodworking magazine there have been some articles 
showing some pretty crude router bits ground from files and loose steel pieces. 
 A bit spinning at less than say 6-8000 rotations a minute could be relatively 
safe and still be able to cut even if the bit is unbalanced to some degree.  
With a single cutter we are really talking about a tool called a fly cutter.  
Wouldn't you agree?

I also like the simple method of indexing the piece.  Thanks for showing 
interest this on such a slow news month.

Tim

On Mar 5, 2018, 11:41 AM, at 11:41 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbePcJqN6O4=youtu.be
>
>here is another attempt!
>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Phos. Bronze bushing for Revo and other types

[Tim Krause]

I've thought about it and the bushings are available here in the states.  I do 
know the bronze bushing on my larger machines the bronze bushing are holding up 
fine.  I would not hesitate to swap out the delrin bushings with the bronze.

On Mar 3, 2018, 2:49 AM, at 2:49 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Has anyone done it yet.
>Richard
>
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Re: Post from Russia

[Tim Krause]

Hi Mike,

The ramping of the ends is in my opinion the "classic" look of hand carving 
style that are prominent in antique furniture.  

On Mar 1, 2018, 12:29 PM, at 12:29 PM, "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
 wrote:
>I believe it is clean because of the speed of cut, no hesitation at the
>
>ends.
>
>In Tim's suggestion, cutting from the side, there will be a very
>notable 
>difference in the look of the ends of the flutes.  Instead of the sharp
>
>radius start and stop, there will be a ramping in and out that will be 
>the radius of the major diameter of the bit.  Tapered in so to speak.  
>Also, the cut will have to be a climb cut to remove stock and then a 
>final clean cut.  The next area of concern is the lifting of the grain 
>rip out at the exit of the cut.  These are all controllable but as I 
>said are just areas to be aware of.  I really like the positive index 
>stops as well as the bearing follower.
>
>Mike OK
>
>On 3/1/2018 9:31 AM, Tom Dotta wrote:
>> HI All
>> Most impressively clean cut, no burning, even though the wood looks 
>> full of resin. Do you think the cutter has a greater angle of relief 
>> than ours? Cheers  Tom Dotta
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 6:33 AM, Richard Ellis 
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Tim
>> I am not too sure how to hold such objects--- other than on
>> the Revo's table, rotary or the normal flat one. A cheaper cutter
>> would suffice me thinks!!??
>>
>> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 11:54:59 AM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I like his method of a follower. If I was doing this on the
>> legacy I would turn the piece on it's side and use a side
>> cutting bit with a bearing.  Simple stuff and you don't have
>> to modify anything.
>>
>> Tim
>> On Mar 1, 2018, at 1:34 AM, Richard Ellis
>>  wrote:
>>
>> Hi all thought this may be of interest to some So have
>> re:posted it. Thanks Curt ---some possibilities there
>> Richard
>>
>> Curt George  
>> 11/12/17
>>
>> Well not exactly, but his set up and jigs could be used
>on
>> the Legacy... I THINK OF IT AS A GOOD LEARNING
>EXPERIENCE.
>> Enjoy the video.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-zjc5qYFyQ
>> 
>>
>> C.A.G.
>>
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Re: Making sawdust!

[Tim Krause]

Congrats on turning 4x4's into toothpicks!  Regarding the spirals and the 
method you tried first depends on the pitch and the diameter of the bit.  Your 
second method of rotating the stock to a correct index also works.  Once you 
get going a little more we can talk about alternative methods.  

On Mar 1, 2018, 11:33 AM, at 11:33 AM, Patrick Salter  
wrote:
>I finally got my legacy set! I started following the fast start start
>video (how did we survive watching vhs tapes!) and everything was going
>fine until i got to the spiral part. 
>In the video he said that after making the first of multiple cuts to
>disconnect the split nut, slide back router sled the width of your bit,
>reattach the split nut and it should be good for the next cut. 
>I was using a 3/4” core bit ( no rope or barley twist bits yet) and
>they just didn’t seem to line up right. After much thought (my wife
>said she could see the smoke) I wondered if I couldn’t just use the
>index gear. I tried it and it and it worked much better! I will try
>posting a picture. If it works, the first attempt is on the bottom  and
>on the top  is using the gear index. Hmm, give me a second to figure
>out posting pictures 
>
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Re: Post from Russia

[Tim Krause]

Cutting the profile is a bit of a challenge.  I would also start out with the 
band saw and then use a template and the template following bit.  It a bit the 
has a cutter on the end of the bit and a bearing above it.  I don't recall the 
magnate number at this moment.  Once the bit has cut about a 1/2" down the 
bearing takes over and the entire depth is cut very accurately.  It's a slow 
process. 

The other way to form the profile would be to use the z axis template method. 
It was shown on the bed project in legacy's academy. It would also be a slow 
process but it works.

On Mar 1, 2018, 7:05 AM, at 7:05 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>Will give it a go when I get to the shedtoo much snow at the
>moment. I 
>think the band saw will be helpful to get the shape needed
>I will say again what a cracking little Mill the REVO is. As I am sure
>Bill 
>will agree . He is a bit quiet at the moment hope he is o.k.
>Richard
>
>On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 2:58:22 PM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> Just use the cam clamps that come with the Revo and grip the edges. 
>The 
>> round bit is pricey, but very useful for other needs.
>> On Mar 1, 2018, at 6:33 AM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim
>>> I am not too sure how to hold such objects--- other than on the 
>>> Revo's table, rotary or the normal flat one. A cheaper cutter would
>suffice 
>>> me thinks!!??
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 11:54:59 AM UTC, Tim wrote:

 I like his method of a follower.  If I was doing this on the legacy
>I 
 would turn the piece on it's side and use a side cutting bit with a
>
 bearing.  Simple stuff and you don't have to modify anything.

 Tim
 On Mar 1, 2018, at 1:34 AM, Richard Ellis 
>wrote:
>
> Hi all thought this may be of interest to some So have re:posted
>it. 
> Thanks Curt ---some possibilities there
> Richard
>
> Curt George 
> 11/12/17
> Well not exactly, but his set up and jigs could be used on the 
> Legacy... I THINK OF IT AS A GOOD LEARNING EXPERIENCE. 
> Enjoy the video.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-zjc5qYFyQ  
>
> C.A.G.
>
>
>
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Re: Post from Russia

[Tim Krause]

One other thing, the side cutting bit would make a smoother cut than a core bit 
since it would be cutting with the grain.

On Mar 1, 2018, 6:58 AM, at 6:58 AM, Tim Krause <artmarb...@comcast.net> wrote:
>Just use the cam clamps that come with the Revo and grip the edges. 
>The round bit is pricey, but very useful for other needs.
>
>On Mar 1, 2018, 6:33 AM, at 6:33 AM, Richard Ellis
><rchrd.ell...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>Tim
>>I am not too sure how to hold such objects--- other than on the
>>Revo's 
>>table, rotary or the normal flat one. A cheaper cutter would suffice
>me
>>
>>thinks!!??
>>
>>On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 11:54:59 AM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>>
>>> I like his method of a follower.  If I was doing this on the legacy
>I
>>
>>> would turn the piece on it's side and use a side cutting bit with a 
>>> bearing.  Simple stuff and you don't have to modify anything.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>> On Mar 1, 2018, at 1:34 AM, Richard Ellis <rchrd@gmail.com 
>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi all thought this may be of interest to some So have re:posted
>it.
>>
>>>> Thanks Curt ---some possibilities there
>>>> Richard
>>>>
>>>> Curt George 
>>>> 11/12/17
>>>> Well not exactly, but his set up and jigs could be used on the
>>Legacy... 
>>>> I THINK OF IT AS A GOOD LEARNING EXPERIENCE. 
>>>> Enjoy the video.
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-zjc5qYFyQ  
>>>>
>>>> C.A.G.
>>>>
>>>>
>>
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Re: Post from Russia

[Tim Krause]

Just use the cam clamps that come with the Revo and grip the edges.  The round 
bit is pricey, but very useful for other needs.

On Mar 1, 2018, 6:33 AM, at 6:33 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>I am not too sure how to hold such objects--- other than on the
>Revo's 
>table, rotary or the normal flat one. A cheaper cutter would suffice me
>
>thinks!!??
>
>On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 11:54:59 AM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I like his method of a follower.  If I was doing this on the legacy I
>
>> would turn the piece on it's side and use a side cutting bit with a 
>> bearing.  Simple stuff and you don't have to modify anything.
>>
>> Tim
>> On Mar 1, 2018, at 1:34 AM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all thought this may be of interest to some So have re:posted it.
>
>>> Thanks Curt ---some possibilities there
>>> Richard
>>>
>>> Curt George 
>>> 11/12/17
>>> Well not exactly, but his set up and jigs could be used on the
>Legacy... 
>>> I THINK OF IT AS A GOOD LEARNING EXPERIENCE. 
>>> Enjoy the video.
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-zjc5qYFyQ  
>>>
>>> C.A.G.
>>>
>>>
>
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Re: Post from Russia

[Tim Krause]

I like his method of a follower.  If I was doing this on the legacy I would 
turn the piece on it's side and use a side cutting bit with a bearing.  Simple 
stuff and you don't have to modify anything.

Tim

On Mar 1, 2018, 1:34 AM, at 1:34 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>
>Hi all thought this may be of interest to some So have re:posted it.
>Thanks 
>Curt ---some possibilities there
>Richard
>
>Curt George 
>11/12/17
>Well not exactly, but his set up and jigs could be used on the
>Legacy... I 
>THINK OF IT AS A GOOD LEARNING EXPERIENCE. 
>Enjoy the video.
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-zjc5qYFyQ  
>
>C.A.G.
>
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Re: Tim's wave attachment

[Tim Krause]

I think I'm seeing the problem much clearer now.  I need to sleep on it to come 
up with a good answer.  At this moment, I would suggest using a template in a 
sinewave form on the flats.  That way you could do several rows of waves.  I 
think that's a better option than trying to use reciprocator.  I'll sleep on it!

-Tim

On Feb 27, 2018, 11:09 PM, at 11:09 PM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>I have been finding it difficult to centre the wave on the octagon (
>One 
>face ) I think When in the shed next I will fix the wood in place using
>the 
>Revo locking pin /plate and then make sure the Wave index pin also
>lines up 
>in a hole. Hope it works???
>You will see by the pics ,although they are not too clear.
>
>On Wednesday, February 28, 2018 at 5:41:31 AM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> A thought comes to mind.  Since the Revo cannot use a double locking 
>> collar, I would make the stock an octogon on the Revo, then make your
>
>> waves.  I'm still trying to figure out the wandering wave problem.  I
>think 
>> photos will reveal the mystery.  
>>
>> -Tim
>> On Feb 27, 2018, at 12:38 AM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes Tim 
>>> The peaks were indeed deeper on the outside as I expected. Now how
>to get 
>>> the wooden object level. When I screwed the drive dog/plate on It
>was not 
>>> leaving the flat of the octagon level with the carriage, The 24 hole
>drive 
>>> plate did not quite line up,, I may in future have to do a light
>planing 
>>> cut .
>>> Or find a plate with more index holes.
>>> My last wave was not only off center it wandered to one side, and of
>
>>> course it went deeper --looked a bit strange. I could not see
>the 
>>> reason When I take a pic. I will high-lite with a marker pen  I
>don't think 
>>> the carriage moved as I pencil marked it position before starting
>>> The wood I am using is very wooly maybe willow or poplar-- only
>fit 
>>> to practise with 
>>> Richard
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 27, 2018 at 1:24:23 AM UTC, Tim wrote:

 I'm waiting for photos before commenting.  Putting waves on a flat 
 surface was never in the plan so this could be a very interesting
>thread.   

 The first thing that comes to mind is the depth of the cut would be
>
 deeper at each peak of the waves.  The center of the wave is of
>course the 
 original depth set. This is because of the arc of the cut.  Does
>this make 
 sense? 

 Tim
 On Feb 26, 2018, at 9:15 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental
>Mills <
 legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> Richard The wave attachment is one tool that I know pretty well. 
>
> There is one trick that most people do not use, when using this 
> attachment,The trick is to mark your gears before you start, after
>the cut 
> has been made, 
> you dis-en-gauge your lead screw, and bring the unit back to the 
> starting point, Then drive your machine until the marks on the
>gears are in 
> line again, then re-en-gauge your drive screw or index for the
>next cut. 
>
> If you want to do a number of indexes, it is safer to start form
>the 
> same point, and then index to the next cut instead of relining on
>the gears 
> to keep a constant... 
>
> Is this all necessary? No.  But on the wave attachment if the arm
>has 
> moved on the other side of the swing of your starting point was,
>your 
> wave/pitch will be cut in a different direction. 
>
> I hope this helps? 
>
> I have to get to work now. 
> talk to you all more latter. 
>
> C.A.G. 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 26, 2018 11:50 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy 
> Ornamental Mills  wrote:
>
>
>
> Richard Ellis  
> To 
> Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Today at 8:37 AM 
> Hi Curt 
>  The last Wave certainly did not work out, and I am at a complete
>loss 
> as to why.  Will get a pic later. 
> It is bright sunshine here @ 13.30 and is starting to snow. The
>worlds 
> gone mad!! 
> Richard 
>
> On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 1:15:23 PM UTC, Curt George wrote:
>
>
> Hey Richard.  
> can you send us a picture, even if it did not work out as planed,
>I 
> would like to see what you did. 
> C.A.G. 
>
>
> On Monday, February 26, 2018 3:42 AM, Richard Ellis <
> rchrd@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Yesterday I had a 2 1/2 inch square piece of wood in the Revo 20
>inches 
> long.   Used a planing cutter to make it into a octagon , then
>using Tims 
> Recprocator I did trial runs of waves on different faces, I think
>I should 
> have moved one of the gears one tooth as the waves were just off
>center. 
> Why did I do it? who knows!! All good practice 
> Richard 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because 

Re: Tim's wave attachment

[Tim Krause]

A thought comes to mind.  Since the Revo cannot use a double locking collar, I 
would make the stock an octogon on the Revo, then make your waves.  I'm still 
trying to figure out the wandering wave problem.  I think photos will reveal 
the mystery.  

-Tim

On Feb 27, 2018, 12:38 AM, at 12:38 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Yes Tim 
>The peaks were indeed deeper on the outside as I expected. Now how to
>get 
>the wooden object level. When I screwed the drive dog/plate on It was
>not 
>leaving the flat of the octagon level with the carriage, The 24 hole
>drive 
>plate did not quite line up,, I may in future have to do a light
>planing 
>cut .
>Or find a plate with more index holes.
>My last wave was not only off center it wandered to one side, and of
>course 
>it went deeper --looked a bit strange. I could not see the reason
>When 
>I take a pic. I will high-lite with a marker pen  I don't think the 
>carriage moved as I pencil marked it position before starting
>The wood I am using is very wooly maybe willow or poplar-- only fit
>to 
>practise with 
>Richard
>
>On Tuesday, February 27, 2018 at 1:24:23 AM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> I'm waiting for photos before commenting.  Putting waves on a flat
>surface 
>> was never in the plan so this could be a very interesting thread.   
>>
>> The first thing that comes to mind is the depth of the cut would be
>deeper 
>> at each peak of the waves.  The center of the wave is of course the 
>> original depth set. This is because of the arc of the cut.  Does this
>make 
>> sense? 
>>
>> Tim
>> On Feb 26, 2018, at 9:15 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental
>Mills <
>> legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>>>
>>> Richard The wave attachment is one tool that I know pretty well. 
>>>
>>> There is one trick that most people do not use, when using this 
>>> attachment,The trick is to mark your gears before you start, after
>the cut 
>>> has been made, 
>>> you dis-en-gauge your lead screw, and bring the unit back to the
>starting 
>>> point, Then drive your machine until the marks on the gears are in
>line 
>>> again, then re-en-gauge your drive screw or index for the next cut. 
>>>
>>> If you want to do a number of indexes, it is safer to start form the
>same 
>>> point, and then index to the next cut instead of relining on the
>gears to 
>>> keep a constant... 
>>>
>>> Is this all necessary? No.  But on the wave attachment if the arm
>has 
>>> moved on the other side of the swing of your starting point was,
>your 
>>> wave/pitch will be cut in a different direction. 
>>>
>>> I hope this helps? 
>>>
>>> I have to get to work now. 
>>> talk to you all more latter. 
>>>
>>> C.A.G. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 26, 2018 11:50 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy 
>>> Ornamental Mills 
>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard Ellis   
>>> To 
>>> Legacy Ornamental Mills  
>>> Today at 8:37 AM 
>>> Hi Curt 
>>>  The last Wave certainly did not work out, and I am at a complete
>loss as 
>>> to why.  Will get a pic later. 
>>> It is bright sunshine here @ 13.30 and is starting to snow. The
>worlds 
>>> gone mad!! 
>>> Richard 
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 1:15:23 PM UTC, Curt George wrote: 
>>>
>>> Hey Richard.  
>>> can you send us a picture, even if it did not work out as planed, I
>would 
>>> like to see what you did. 
>>> C.A.G. 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 26, 2018 3:42 AM, Richard Ellis
> 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Yesterday I had a 2 1/2 inch square piece of wood in the Revo 20
>inches 
>>> long.   Used a planing cutter to make it into a octagon , then using
>Tims 
>>> Recprocator I did trial runs of waves on different faces, I think I
>should 
>>> have moved one of the gears one tooth as the waves were just off
>center. 
>>> Why did I do it? who knows!! All good practice 
>>> Richard 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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>
>>> . 
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>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>
>>
>
>-- 
>You received this 

Re: Tim's wave attachment

[Tim Krause]

I'm waiting for photos before commenting.  Putting waves on a flat surface was 
never in the plan so this could be a very interesting thread.   

The first thing that comes to mind is the depth of the cut would be deeper at 
each peak of the waves.  The center of the wave is of course the original depth 
set. This is because of the arc of the cut.  Does this make sense? 

Tim

On Feb 26, 2018, 9:15 AM, at 9:15 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>Richard The wave attachment is one tool that I know pretty well.
>There is one trick that most people do not use, when using this
>attachment,The trick is to mark your gears before you start, after the
>cut has been made,you dis-en-gauge your lead screw, and bring the unit
>back to the starting point, Then drive your machine until the marks on
>the gears are in line again, then re-en-gauge your drive screw or index
>for the next cut.
>If you want to do a number of indexes, it is safer to start form the
>same point, and then index to the next cut instead of relining on the
>gears to keep a constant...
>Is this all necessary? No.  But on the wave attachment if the arm has
>moved on the other side of the swing of your starting point was, your
>wave/pitch will be cut in a different direction.
>I hope this helps?
>I have to get to work now.talk to you all more latter.
>C.A.G.
>
>
>
> 
>
>On Monday, February 26, 2018 11:50 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy
>Ornamental Mills  wrote:
> 
>
> 
>Richard Ellis ToLegacy Ornamental MillsToday at
>8:37 AMHi Curt The last Wave certainly did not work out, and I am at a
>complete loss as to why.  Will get a pic later.It is bright sunshine
>here @ 13.30 and is starting to snow. The worlds gone mad!!Richard
>
>On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 1:15:23 PM UTC, Curt George wrote:
>Hey Richard. can you send us a picture, even if it did not work out as
>planed, I would like to see what you did.C.A.G.
>
>On Monday, February 26, 2018 3:42 AM, Richard Ellis
> wrote:
>
>
>Yesterday I had a 2 1/2 inch square piece of wood in the Revo 20 inches
>long.   Used a planing cutter to make it into a octagon , then using
>Tims Recprocator I did trial runs of waves on different faces, I think
>I should have moved one of the gears one tooth as the waves were just
>off center.Why did I do it? who knows!! All good
>practiceRichard
>
>-- 
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>
>
>   
>
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Quick Reminder

[Tim Krause]

Please don't forget to change the subject lines of your message when your 
conversation strays into a new topic.  It easier to find messages in the future.

Thanks

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

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Re: Barley Twist

[Tim Krause]

With a little math you can solve this.

Pitch = diameter of router bit X the number of starts.

To get a 1.5" pitch you would need to use the .25 reduction set with the F gear 
on the leadscrew.  If you don't have the reduction gear you could do a two 
start twist with a 3" pitch  with the B gear on the leadscrew.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 16, 2018, 9:41 PM, at 9:41 PM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Hi
> I am in a muddle my brain won't work.
>I have a buyer for my Woodchuck and he wants to do a BARLEY TWIST On a
>2 
>inch diam. 4 foot long bit of wood.
>What tooth gears do I need for 1 1/2 inch cutter. i.e.
>
>Spindle gear tooth :A: and :B: ? Driving the next gear   ?? Teeth?
>Leadscrew Gear teeth.?
>Hope you can help
>Thanks
>Richard  (It's an age thing )
>
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Re: Barley Twist

[Tim Krause]

Single start?

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 16, 2018, 9:41 PM, at 9:41 PM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Hi
> I am in a muddle my brain won't work.
>I have a buyer for my Woodchuck and he wants to do a BARLEY TWIST On a
>2 
>inch diam. 4 foot long bit of wood.
>What tooth gears do I need for 1 1/2 inch cutter. i.e.
>
>Spindle gear tooth :A: and :B: ? Driving the next gear   ?? Teeth?
>Leadscrew Gear teeth.?
>Hope you can help
>Thanks
>Richard  (It's an age thing )
>
>-- 
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>Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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Re: the legacy as a high tech ornamental lathe...the next level?

[Tim Krause]

I forgot, Spirograph patterns are a different story.  I have a complicated 
solution that is limited.  I'm still looking for the simple and flexible 
answer.  When using the rotary table hooked up to the spindle and the leadscrew 
engaged, you can only achieve roulette curves.  See wiki for that last word.  
Thanks go to Ron Kirsch for the math help a long time ago.  He helped me see 
the limitations.  

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 12, 2018, 10:39 AM, at 10:39 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental 
Mills  wrote:
>hey tom!
>  I can't say I remember steve, but I was a member of the 
>ornamental turners society some 30 years ago...attended several, yearly
>
>symposiums... then, it seems the group was absorbed into the AAW, then 
>seemed to fade away...good stuff back then, but a bit more simplistic
>then 
>what is available in today's world, I might think...I do enjoy
>"playing" 
>with my legacy but, realistically, a good cnc machine with the right 
>program, can duplicate just about any thing you could imagine on a 
>legacy(with or without any custom mods) without the need for the gears,
>
>lead screws, no back lash, etc.,etc...steve white's work and mods are
>very 
>impressive, I have to say...what it boils down to, in my opinion, is
>this: 
>are you doing ornamental work for business or pleasure?... for
>pleasure, 
>you can "play" with doing your own mods, somewhat in a fashion like
>steve 
>does, but perhaps a bit simpler, LOL!...a lot of us have the
>imagination 
>and design skills to go to certain levels with our legacy machines, but
>not 
>the equipment or metal turning/milling skills needed to go to the level
>
>that steve does...I for one would certainly pay an admission just to
>see 
>his workshop and equipment, and to have a lengthy conversation on the
>state 
>of ornamental turning in today's world with him...it's all
>good!...thanks 
>for the reply!...joe
>
>
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Re: the legacy as a high tech ornamental lathe...the next level?

[Tim Krause]

Pumping the x and y axis is something I been working on for a long time.  I 
showed that pumping the x axis is easy in a past message thread.  It was done 
on my rotary table.  I used a simple fixed swash plate on the lead screw and 
used a small bearing on the router carriage.  I used chain and sprockets of 
different ratios to control the number of repeats.  Wrapping a wave around the 
circumference of a spindle would use the same method.

There's a couple problems that need to be worked out, but when I'm ready to 
show what I've done so far I'll talk about those.  

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 12, 2018, 10:39 AM, at 10:39 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental 
Mills  wrote:
>hey tom!
>  I can't say I remember steve, but I was a member of the 
>ornamental turners society some 30 years ago...attended several, yearly
>
>symposiums... then, it seems the group was absorbed into the AAW, then 
>seemed to fade away...good stuff back then, but a bit more simplistic
>then 
>what is available in today's world, I might think...I do enjoy
>"playing" 
>with my legacy but, realistically, a good cnc machine with the right 
>program, can duplicate just about any thing you could imagine on a 
>legacy(with or without any custom mods) without the need for the gears,
>
>lead screws, no back lash, etc.,etc...steve white's work and mods are
>very 
>impressive, I have to say...what it boils down to, in my opinion, is
>this: 
>are you doing ornamental work for business or pleasure?... for
>pleasure, 
>you can "play" with doing your own mods, somewhat in a fashion like
>steve 
>does, but perhaps a bit simpler, LOL!...a lot of us have the
>imagination 
>and design skills to go to certain levels with our legacy machines, but
>not 
>the equipment or metal turning/milling skills needed to go to the level
>
>that steve does...I for one would certainly pay an admission just to
>see 
>his workshop and equipment, and to have a lengthy conversation on the
>state 
>of ornamental turning in today's world with him...it's all
>good!...thanks 
>for the reply!...joe
>
>
>-- 
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Re: Just found this... ;-)

[Tim Krause]

To clarify, the picture in the ad, the vertical four corner supports to the 
upper rail uses rectangle stock and cam clamps.  The majority of the woodchucks 
I've seen have what appear to be 1" round still stock to hold the upper rails.  
That is the version you have Richard.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 12, 2018, 12:59 AM, at 12:59 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>My Woodchuck rails and legs are all rectangle in shape ,same size. But
>the 
>two top rails are of thicker section material .
>Richard
>
>On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 9:42:33 PM UTC, Tim wrote:
>>
>> This machine is really early in legacy's history.  Take note of the 
>> rectangle steel legs instead of the round.  There is also no mention
>of the 
>> IRT name designation which the picture appears to be.  Please refer
>to the 
>> hidden history page. http://ornamentalmills.com/history/ .
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Sent from BlueMail  
>> On Feb 10, 2018, at 4:34 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental
>Mills <
>> legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>>>
>>> Sep/Oct 1992 Fine Woodworking. 
>>>
>>> C.A.G. 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 10, 2018 7:30 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy 
>>> Ornamental Mills 
>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: Inline image] 
>>> C.A.G. 
>>> -- 
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>>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. 
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>
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>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>
>
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Re: Just found this... ;-)

[Tim Krause]

This machine is really early in legacy's history.  Take note of the rectangle 
steel legs instead of the round.  There is also no mention of the IRT name 
designation which the picture appears to be.  Please refer to the hidden 
history page. http://ornamentalmills.com/history/ .

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 10, 2018, 4:34 PM, at 4:34 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>Sep/Oct 1992 Fine Woodworking.
>C.A.G. 
>
>On Saturday, February 10, 2018 7:30 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy
>Ornamental Mills  wrote:
> 
>
> 
>C.A.G.-- 
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>
>
>   
>
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RE: Dead

[Tim Krause]

I would love to see Barbara Dill's demonstration.  Her work with multi-axis 
turning is very inspiring.  It's something that can be done very safely on the 
OM.




On Feb 10, 2018, 8:49 AM, at 8:49 AM, Michael Kratky  
wrote:
>Same here, has been snowing every other day with 30” since last Sunday,
>just enough time in between to dig out then I had to spend the day
>yesterday shoveling off the roof only to wake up to 6” more inches this
>morning, fortunately I bough myself a sauna for Christmas to bask in
>after a day frolicking in the Adirondack winter. 
>
> 
>
>Hugh combination woodworking/woodturning show coming up March 24th and
>25th in Saratoga Springs, NY that I’ve been part of for 21 years and
>not a thing yet made for it. 
>
>www.nwawoodworkingshow.org
>
>www.totallyturning.com
>
> 
>
>Hope no one got burnt too badly in the stock market crash.
>
> 
>
>Michael K
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 10:54 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Dead
>
> 
>
>Hello Richard
>
> 
>
>I don't know about everyone else. but we are in the middle of a winter
>blizzard. ( I know its not a lot of snow. but we have had 16" of snow
>over the last 24 hrs. which comes down to it, I am shoveling snow
>instead of playing with wood,over the last few days.).  ;-)   Also one
>more small note, when I am working I can not get into my private e-mail
>or Google groups. (computer security will not let me get on to these
>sites.)
>
> 
>
>So I need to ask, What's going on with you?  Any new dreams or ideas
>you wish to chase?
>
> 
>
>I personalty am gathering parts and ideas, for my next LEGACY
>Adventure.  We will see what comes from this idea, Either I will have
>something new to share with the group, Or I will just have more parts
>and dreams gathering in the shop to trip over... ;-) 
>
> 
>
>I Hope you have a good day.
>
> 
>
>C.A.G.
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>On Saturday, February 10, 2018 3:31 AM, Richard Ellis
> wrote:
>
> 
>
>Where is everyone? very quiet just lately, It is the same over
>here in the U.K. no replies to my Woodchuck for sale Add. on a couple
>of woodworking sites . Plenty of views though!!
>
>Richard 
>
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> 
>
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RE: Working toward a Legacy Mill

[Tim Krause]

I think the current limit for Google groups has been raised from 5 mb to 10 
mb...in theory.  I say theory because I have not tested the upper limit, it 
came from a newsgroup I read last year.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 4, 2018, 2:41 PM, at 2:41 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>The pictures on craigslist all seem to be under a megabit in size and
>should post ok on the group but that could be craiglist doing that find
>your pictures on your computer do not open instead
>
>Right click on one and choose properties this will tell you how big it
>is if around 1 meg it should post or are you trying to post too many at
>a time all your pictures combined cant be much bigger than 2 or 3 meg
>or it won’t post.
>
>If this is all getting overwhelming email one of your pics to me
>bulke...@mmnet.com.au and i will see if i can post it and see whats
>wrong
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rg Max
>Sent: Monday, 5 February 2018 4:46 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Working toward a Legacy Mill
>
> 
>
>I posted to craigslist.org - St. Louis, Mo. 6 pictures - hope that
>helps 
>
> 
>
>search = Legacy Mill - Steely 900/1200 Manual CNC 
>
> 
>
>On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 5:27 AM, Bill Bulkeley 
>wrote:
>
>I just add them to the email if your not using email to post messages
>send one to 
>
>legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com and attach your pics to that
>and we all should get them unless the picturs are too big to email
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rg Max
>Sent: Sunday, 4 February 2018 4:31 PM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
>
>Subject: Re: Working toward a Legacy Mill
>
> 
>
>New bee here to post pictures of my Legacy - tried three times - write
>for pictures
>
> 
>
>On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 11:55 AM, MWF  wrote:
>
>Arkady and all others,
>
>Here is a link to their website: 
>http://dicoproducts.com/products.php?gid=5
>
>The ones I have used are the:
>4 inch (diameter) Wheel Brush
>4 inch (diameter) Flap Brush
>
>They come in 3 levels of "stiffness" and are colored accordingly -
>Coarse - Gray, Medium - Orange, and Fine - Blue (softest)
>
>I have used all 3 levels of coarseness and am VERY VERY HAPPY with
>them.  They will outlast a wire bristled wheel 100 to one!  You don't
>get those little wires coming off and hitting you in the face.  Nor do
>they leave the little pieces of wire all over your work area when you
>are finished.  
>Price-wise, they may be 2x the price - but I can assure you - WELL
>WORTH more than that!  
>
>Example:  I have a outdoor BBQ grill that needed major clean-up.  In
>the past, I used wire wheels to clean it all down before repainting
>(high temp paint).  It was quite a chore and I'd go through a couple
>wire wheels (good brand name products - not cheap China junk).  This
>past Spring (a year ago), I tackled the job again.  In preparation I
>bought 2 4" Nyalox wheels.  I finished the job using only one wheel.  I
>measured its diameter and compared it to the new/unused one. 
>Imperceptible difference in their diameters!  
>
>Group Members - if you are reading this - has anyone else ever heard of
>the Nyalox brushes?  
>Have you used them?  Your thoughts?
>
>If you have not ever used them - but use wire wheels, I recommend you
>switch to Nyalox immediately. 
>(Full disclosure: I do not work for Nyalox or any business that sells
>them; nor do I own stock in them.  I'm just a very impressed customer.)
>
>Mac
>
>  _  
>
>  _  
>
> 
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: Arkady Paka 
>Sent: Jan 24, 2018 1:50 AM 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>
>Subject: Re: Working toward a Legacy Mill 
>
>Hello Mac
>
>Nyalox have many items. Which one you use?
>
> 
>
>Arkady.
>
> 
>
>2018-01-24 7:45 GMT+02:00 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>:
>
>Hello Ira
>
>those are nice table legs, (Beautiful wood!) A barley twist leg could
>be done in 45 min  if you start form scratch. But there are ways to get
>the job done much faster is you plan,and remove the waist before
>putting the wood on the Legacy.  Mike Pung has shared his radio lathe
>duplicator with us in the group. (
>http://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/Pugn3.htm)  If I had to bet,
>He could make those legs in less then half of the time I could make
>those on the Legacy alone.  
>
> 
>
>Having said that, there is almost, always more then one way to do
>anything. If you use your lathe, a peeling cut with a skew, can remove
>wood very fast, if you can get the wood close to finish size before you
>put it on the Legacy, your production time will be much shorter... (How
>you do that is up to you.) ;-)
>
> 
>
>Mac. what you are thinking of is called a reversing gear. so you can

Re: Do you use your template follower On your Legacy Ornamental Mill

[Tim Krause]

Further thought on this...the spring loaded pen would be easy to make for those 
that have a Revo or the updated z axis or the updated template follower for the 
900/1200/1800 models.  For those that don't know, those models use an aluminum 
block to hold a follower that had different sized dowel pins.  I don't have a 
photo handy. 

Also those with the updated template holder that is level with the outer rails 
would have to design a pen holder differently than the stock brackets used on 
the rest of the models.  This should be easy to figure out.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 4, 2018, 10:32 PM, at 10:32 PM, Tim Krause <artmarb...@comcast.net> 
wrote:
>Hi Curt,
>
>I really like this idea as a practical solution for the case of
>creating spindles  by the seat of your pants on the legacy and then
>needing to reed or cove from the side.  I'm thinking a spring loaded
>sharpie holder would work great.  It can be mounted anywhere on the
>template follower to make the pattern.  
>
>Thanks for the food for thought.
>
>Tim
>
>⁣Sent from BlueMail ​
>
>On Feb 3, 2018, 4:14 PM, at 4:14 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy
>Ornamental Mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>Hello Everyone.an Idea cam to me today, (while driving home form
>>work.)  I have not done this on my Legacy but have done it with my
>>Lathe.
>>The idea is to use the Template follower on the Legacy as a Template
>>Maker to produce template that you can reproduce.
>>If you put an already made spindle in between the centers on the
>>Legacy, then set up a blank template ( just a sheet of piece of
>>wood/hardboard/plastic) on the template holder.If you put a copying
>>router bit, (or any bit with a ball bearing guide on it.)  You can
>>trace the turning.Now all that you need to do it , put a pencil or
>>marker mounted on the Legacy's follower (where the guild normally is
>>placed.) When you run your ball bearing bit along the spindle, the
>>follower (with the marker on it.) will trace the spindle, leaving you
>>with the marker's out-line of  your new template. then all you need to
>>do is cut it out, and then re-mount the template in your original
>>location, to make copy/ re-production of the spindle.
>>Now what can make this fun, is Make any spindle you want, and once
>>done, you can use the same set-up as I described. to copy your
>>original, so you can make more...
>>The Legacy's template follower can be used for many things other then
>>just re-producing from start to finish idioms. The Legacy is NOT a
>copy
>>lathe, but it can be used as one.
>>I personalty use the template follower for detail work, like side
>>reeding a thin spindle, where I know a side cutting bit router bearing
>>will slip and under cut what I plan to make. (exp. the cups that I
>have
>>made over the last few weekends)
>>Legacy made a few y ears ago, a video called Profile following. in
>this
>>video they used a template to make a number of different idioms by
>>using the follower.
>>The sky is the limit. 
>>By using some simple ideas. you can make much more then you ever
>>dreamed of.
>>What do you all think? any and all comments are (as always) Welcome.
>>C.A.G.
>>
>>-- 
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>>Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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>>an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
>>For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>
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Re: Do you use your template follower On your Legacy Ornamental Mill

[Tim Krause]

Hi Curt,

I really like this idea as a practical solution for the case of creating 
spindles  by the seat of your pants on the legacy and then needing to reed or 
cove from the side.  I'm thinking a spring loaded sharpie holder would work 
great.  It can be mounted anywhere on the template follower to make the 
pattern.  

Thanks for the food for thought.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Feb 3, 2018, 4:14 PM, at 4:14 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>Hello Everyone.an Idea cam to me today, (while driving home form
>work.)  I have not done this on my Legacy but have done it with my
>Lathe.
>The idea is to use the Template follower on the Legacy as a Template
>Maker to produce template that you can reproduce.
>If you put an already made spindle in between the centers on the
>Legacy, then set up a blank template ( just a sheet of piece of
>wood/hardboard/plastic) on the template holder.If you put a copying
>router bit, (or any bit with a ball bearing guide on it.)  You can
>trace the turning.Now all that you need to do it , put a pencil or
>marker mounted on the Legacy's follower (where the guild normally is
>placed.) When you run your ball bearing bit along the spindle, the
>follower (with the marker on it.) will trace the spindle, leaving you
>with the marker's out-line of  your new template. then all you need to
>do is cut it out, and then re-mount the template in your original
>location, to make copy/ re-production of the spindle.
>Now what can make this fun, is Make any spindle you want, and once
>done, you can use the same set-up as I described. to copy your
>original, so you can make more...
>The Legacy's template follower can be used for many things other then
>just re-producing from start to finish idioms. The Legacy is NOT a copy
>lathe, but it can be used as one.
>I personalty use the template follower for detail work, like side
>reeding a thin spindle, where I know a side cutting bit router bearing
>will slip and under cut what I plan to make. (exp. the cups that I have
>made over the last few weekends)
>Legacy made a few y ears ago, a video called Profile following. in this
>video they used a template to make a number of different idioms by
>using the follower.
>The sky is the limit. 
>By using some simple ideas. you can make much more then you ever
>dreamed of.
>What do you all think? any and all comments are (as always) Welcome.
>C.A.G.
>
>-- 
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RE: This guy lathe is AWESOME!!!

[Tim Krause]

It's based on the SS.  This message was not I tended for this group.   There is 
a mount for a template not shown.  

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jan 26, 2018, 7:04 AM, at 7:04 AM, Michael Kratky  
wrote:
>Tim,
>
>Is the intent a way of forgoing a tool rest and using hand held turning
>tools? 
>
>Appears to be similar to the Shop Smith lathe duplicator (still the
>best if can find one) but without a follower. 
>
>Has a great potential for doing spheres if you can establish a fixed
>pivot point, was into that years ago making hundreds with a similar jig
>but found a very limited market for them unless you can make them
>artistic. 
>
>Michael
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 9:31 AM
>To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
>Subject: This guy lathe is AWESOME!!!
>
> 
>
>Ok guys,  here's some unedited video of my cutter on it's first run. 
>Every thing about the setup is temporary.  Even my technique was kind
>of poor since I was just free handing the shapes I really did not know
>where I was going.  That's strange for me since most of my turnings all
>start from plans and I have specific numbers that I'm trying to hit. 
>Any way, the base being almost 10lbs is vibration free and it floats
>really nicely on the melamine shelf.  I see a little tearout in the
>walnut but that could be my technique.  I need to watch the direction
>I'm cutting in much more closely.  I also need to go back and watch
>Mike's video again.  I'm thinking I want the cutter going in the
>direction of the cut so the grain is always supported.  Same technique
>as using a gouge or spindle.  In otherwords, cutting up hill should not
>be recommended.  I will say it's pretty effortless turning and might
>suit people who have hand control issues. 
>
> 
>
>Warning, there is nothing exciting in these videos.   Just time wasted
>from your busy life.  It's close to watching paint dry :-)
>
> 
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kLfYhcSdcg
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_S7a9u7kEQ
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiJpjfDi4dE
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q03R6oHpZHY
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFamCOWGeRk
>
> 
>
>Let me know what you think and I thank you both for your support on
>this.  I still need to make some templates and make some actual parts. 
>
> 
>
>-Tim
>
> 
>
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Re: Do you think the group could put together a book?

[Tim Krause]

Joe is right about this being a "living book."...  The search engine cannot be 
trusted.  It will miss many topics.  Unfortunately Google no longer support the 
groups so it will continue to be intermittent.  The web site was a place that 
really good posts got highlighted.  It difficult to put together some of the 
more complicated topics that spread over weeks or months.  In 2012 I became 
unable to keep this going but I've never let go of the reins.  Maybe it's time? 
 Recently I wanted to start a newsletter to send to the whole group and get 
more people.  The problem in my eyes is lack of questions and projects being 
posted to the group.  I can't be the sole person to come up with content.  Many 
new user want to learns how to use their machines but they are not asking 
questions.  It's very difficult to lead when we don't know where to go.  

That's my 1 cent worth.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jan 17, 2018, 6:58 AM, at 6:58 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>I would think the group and all of its postings is a "book", in 
>itself...for an index, use the search bar using a key word for what
>topic 
>you might be interested in...yes, most likely there would be some
>crossover 
>and some weeding through to get to the topic you are interested
>in...and of 
>course the occasional reference to non-legacy machine questions and 
>answers(mac breaking my chops comes to mind...LOL!)...but the task of 
>organizing it all, and putting it into categories, etc., etc. I would
>think 
>is monumental...then to print it?...doesn't seem doable...I have
>searched 
>the group archives many times without issue...it's quick and easy...and
>
>very educational...and sometimes interesting to see how the group has 
>progressed(for example, the linear bearing concept being one mod that
>went 
>from being quite a challenge, to being much easier to execute)...joe b.
>
>
>>
>
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RE: Wavy lines

[Tim Krause]

Curt's response makes me wonder if I did not understand what you were asking 
Richard.  Curt mentioned a swash plate, and I can say that I have done this.  
It will make a wave around the circumference of an object.  The number of waves 
is controlled by the gear ratios.  I had to resort to a chain and sprockets 
setup eliminating the swing arm.  I have never shown the group this setup, but 
I did hint to the possibility when I was exploring options with the rotary 
table to create rose engine patterns.  Curt's PDF file really shows some 
feasible options.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jan 12, 2018, 9:56 PM, at 9:56 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Think i would use tims wave attachment along with my ball attachment
>http://ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/ball_attachment/index.html
>
> 
>
>To make waves on the end of round object i think that would work
>
> 
>
>Or a side reeding bit and template with tims wave attachment these
>would put waves from the end to the circumference
>
> 
>
>But to put wavy rings on the end umm that’s hard one perhaps hinge the
>router on a base on the saddle and have a gear  shaped Rosette behind
>the chuck  and have a styles running on the rosette  and attached to
>the router for a zig zag up and down movement as the work rotates and
>use a side cutting router bit to cut the waves,
>
>If you can follow what I just said I think that might work sort of like
>how rose engine works it’s an idea I been playing around in my mind off
>and on for a few years .the problem with this idea your limited to sort
>work .
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard
>Ellis
>Sent: Friday, 12 January 2018 9:52 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Wavy lines
>
> 
>
> Hi all you brainy folk,
>
>I have done wavy lines along the length of a circular object -- ,vase
>/goble,t but am trying to think of ways to put a wavy line, using Tim's
>wave maker, around the circumference  or the top of the round object. 
>
>Any ideas
>
>Richard
>
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>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
> 
>
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Re: Wavy lines

[Tim Krause]

My first initial thought would be this could be done on the model 200 that uses 
a template to control the z axis.  That thought leads to Bill's side ways 
router mount that he did on the Revo.  
http://ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/revo_side_mount/index.html .

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jan 12, 2018, 2:51 AM, at 2:51 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
> Hi all you brainy folk,
>I have done wavy lines along the length of a circular object -- ,vase 
>/goble,t but am trying to think of ways to put a wavy line, using Tim's
>
>wave maker, around the circumference  or the top of the round object. 
>Any ideas
>Richard
>
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Re: legacy

[Tim Krause]

I won't be doing any videos anytime soon.  Besides, the hidden history page 
really covers it well.  Do I need to give the address to it?

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jan 3, 2018, 8:35 PM, at 8:35 PM, MWF  wrote:
>Bill - Thanks for finding the video and sharing it here.
>
>Curt,
>I agree.  I was going to make a similar comment - the "kid" did an
>excellent job - as did the person that filmed it and compiled it.
>Is Chris Andy's son; or Tracy's? - I forgot.
>
>Now if we could just get Tim to do a similar video.  Taking us through
>the "history"/bloodline of the Manual Legacy Ornamental Mill - starting
>with whatever the Phantom Engineering products were called - all the
>way up to the last (and largest?) models put out.  Should be easy for
>Tim - as I understand he has most models ever made.  And if he lacks 2
>or 3 versions, I am sure there is a member or two here that can fill in
>with their unit.
>
>I have often wondered what the various differences were from one model
>to the next.  In some cases, I think the lines were blurred.  Like I
>think there were several "versions" made of the LOM 1000.  
>
>Mac
>_
>_
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>Sent: Jan 3, 2018 10:47 PM 
>To: "legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com" 
>Subject: Re: legacy 
>
>I think Chris did a very good job on this video. I think he just may be
>as good of a salesman as Tracy. (ALMOST Give him some more time,,,) he
>has the potential.
>
>
>C.A.G.
>
>
>
>On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 8:24 PM, Bill Bulkeley
> wrote:
>
>
>
>I wonder if our little chat with legacy planted the seeds for the idea
>of this latest legacy video
>
> 
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik-11XkFfGM=em-uploademail
>
> 
>
>it is actually a interesting video on the company shows just how far
>they have come now.
>
>their move to cnc really kept them going and growing in this modern
>age. I sure wish I could afford one
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
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Re: Congratulations to all and here is your trophy!

[Tim Krause]

Here's a template for an index plate that has 19 holes.  The time spent 
was trivial.


-Tim



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TK-19Indexplate.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document

RE: Congratulations to all and here is your trophy!

[Tim Krause]

Mike, I knew you would be using crank handle method.  My first thought is to 
simply make a 19 hole index plate.  Those prime numbers really throw things 
off.  In my mind I multiplied 19 x 2 to equal a 38" pitch.  Then you could 
figure out the number of cranks.  Ah, but then we have a new problem, how do we 
get that long of a pitch?  We would have to make a new gear.  Too much work, I 
say, back to my index plate.  

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jan 1, 2018, 12:41 PM, at 12:41 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Mike
>
>You got me the closest I can get is 18 divisions using a 4.5inch pitch
>1 crank, not 19 too yearly in the year for my poor old brain you will
>have to enlighten me on this one
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Okla
>Mike (Liltwisted)
>Sent: Tuesday, 2 January 2018 5:59 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Congratulations to all and here is your trophy!
>
> 
>
>You are correct that I used the "Crank Handle Indexing"  But what math
>would you use to create 19 indexes?
>
>I have no idea how heavy they turned out but I did what I could to
>lessen the load.
>
>Mike OK
>
> 
>
> 
>
>On 1/1/2018 12:50 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
>
>Very Nice Mike!
>
>I very much like your gear indexing concept... (Just for those who have
>not seen Mike's video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHgzEKnON-o
> =7s )
>
> 
>
>Now one of these days we need to take a better look at the Radio lathe/
>wood chuck modifications  (but that's another topic.)  
>
> 
>
>How heavy are those trophy s ? they are huge! 
>
> 
>
>Thanks  for sharing with us Mike.  
>
>Happy New Year!
>
> 
>
>C.A.G.
>
> 
>
>On Monday, January 1, 2018 12:38 PM, Okla Mike (Liltwisted) 
>  wrote:
>
> 
>
>Well here is the first post of the year with my Wood Chuck.  I have
>been making many trophy bases over the years that have gone in a lot of
>important events.  Here are two of them.  The Nascar Quicktrip 500 and
>the Arena Football AFL trophys.  We will start with the 500.
>
>
>
>The black part that looks like a tire is what I make.  
>
>I use a bird mouth to assemble then turn it round.  Dyna-glide for
>scale
>
>
>
>You can see all I had to do to increase my Wood Chuck to swing 20"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>then true up the ends and glue on the top
>
>
>
>then I flush trim, round over the corners and put a 14 inch inset for
>the trophy top to set.
>
>
>
>Ta Da!  Total of about 3 hours work.  They seem to like it cause they
>have been having me make them for the last 6 years.
>
> 
>
>Next we have the Arena Football trophy.  I don't have as many picture
>of it though.
>
>Again it is, as you can see, the part they painted.  Then they inlaid
>the flutes with polished metal and then assembled.
>
>
>
>On this one I just used a 22.5 cut, it's only 7.5" in diameter and was
>easy to control.  But here is the fun part, the flutes!
>
>
>
>
>They were supposed to be 5/8" flutes with 5/8 space.  Do the math, it's
>19 indexes.  
>How did I do it??
>I'll leave you with that.  More later
>Mike OK
>
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> 
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> 
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
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RE: merry christmas

[Tim Krause]

I missed this challenge message.  So what's the final member count Bill?

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Dec 24, 2017, 12:39 PM, at 12:39 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>How about this Christmas we have every member post a Christmas hello to
>show how many members are watching i’d like to hear from every one so
>please post a Christmas hello to the group everyone don’t be shy
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>Bulkeley
>Sent: Monday, 25 December 2017 7:06 AM
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Subject: merry christmas
>
> 
>
>Ho ho ho well its Christmas morning here now i hope Santa got me
>something woodwork related,
>
>Merry Christmas to all from down under.hope you all have a great day
>when Christmas day reaches you all as well.
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
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Re: merry christmas

[Tim Krause]

Unless you moved Milt, you where early!  Merry Christmas All, from the Great 
Pacific Northwest!  

-Tim
⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Dec 24, 2017, 1:09 PM, at 1:09 PM, mengel...@gmail.com wrote:
>Merry Christmas to all 
>
>Milt
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 24, 2017, at 12:39 PM, Bill Bulkeley 
>wrote:
>> 
>> How about this Christmas we have every member post a Christmas hello
>to show how many members are watching i’d like to hear from every one
>so please post a Christmas hello to the group everyone don’t be shy
>>  
>> Bill
>>  
>> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
>Bulkeley
>> Sent: Monday, 25 December 2017 7:06 AM
>> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: merry christmas
>>  
>> Ho ho ho well its Christmas morning here now i hope Santa got me
>something woodwork related,
>> Merry Christmas to all from down under.hope you all have a great day
>when Christmas day reaches you all as well.
>>  
>> Bill
>>  
>> 
>> Virus-free. www.avg.com
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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Re: legacy owner

[Tim Krause]

I don't think he is a member.  One of his things I like are his pens with 
advertising on them.  I've made a bunch of these at demonstrations.  They are 
fast and no expense lost when you give them away at a show.  Adding contact 
information is brilliant!

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Dec 21, 2017, 3:12 PM, at 3:12 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Not sure if I have posted before or if this guy is already a member but
>here
>he is
>
> 
>
>http://www.turningsbymark.com/Legacyornamentalmill.html
>
> 
>
> 
>
>I'm spending the afternoon browsing in case your all wondering
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
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Re: legacy

[Tim Krause]

It was forwarded to the new site in November.  

Tim



⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Dec 21, 2017, 2:23 PM, at 2:23 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Has anyone noticed the old
>
>legacywoodworking.com site  seems to be gone I tried to browse it and I
>get
>diverted to legacy's cnc site I guess they took it down. I used to like
>to
>go and look up the old techniques from time to time I will miss it.
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
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Re: The Candlestick Maker

[Tim Krause]

David is a member of this group.On Dec 9, 2017 7:55 AM, 'Curt George' via 
Legacy Ornamental Mills  wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone.
> I was looking for some info. on a project that I am working on, while 
> searching, I found this video.  Watch and see what I found,( in the video, 
> its not advertised but none the less its there.)  ;-)
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aj2ncKrCDA  video.
>
>
> https://www.andurildesigns.com/candlesticks    web site 
>
>
> Have a good weekend.
>
> C.A.G.
>
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Re: 16 point twist

[Tim Krause]

I am authorised by Legacy to distribute that video.  Contact me offlist to 
purchase.

-TimOn Dec 8, 2017 10:36 AM, russ veinot  wrote:
>
> that is strange.  when i got mine all she did was copy it from a hard drive 
> to a dvd and sent it to me.  they must be out of dvd's :>)
>
> ask them if you can get a copy of it from someone else?  also, there are 
> places out there that for a fee, they can copy the vhs to dvd.  no idea of 
> cost but how much can it cost?
>
> Russ
>
>
> On Friday, December 8, 2017 at 9:17:48 AM UTC-6, Love to turn in Oregon wrote:
>>
>> Looking to dire up the 1200 and create some spindles. One section with a 16 
>> point spiral. Unfortunately I gave away my VHS player last year. Can someone 
>> point me in the right direction on how this might be accomplished? I have 
>> the 24 position index gear.

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Re: new video on on the legacy

[Tim Krause]

Your runout results are interesting.  YMMV (your mileage may vary).   My only 
concern about using a set screw for the average Joe, is that a cup point is 
used.  The holding power would be excellent, but it will damage the spindle by 
biting into the spindle.  A small circle is embossed in the steel.  I would 
hate to do that to any spindle that I own.  Choosing a brass or nylon or flat 
tipped set screw would prevent marking.  Like you say, there are several 
solutions to this.

-Tim On Dec 8, 2017 8:15 AM, russ veinot  wrote:
>
> Tim, thanks for your comments
> I agree the locking collar with a pin is an excellent idea and effective.  I 
> said awhile back (I think on my face plate video) that a 1"-8 TPI nut cut 
> down to make narrow to fit on the head stock threads would be an adequate 
> solution. You pin idea on the locking nut would make that even better.  As 
> always, there are many solutions to achieve the same result.  I look for 
> practical and simple (and least expensive) solutions.  my set screw solution 
> falls in that criteria, same as your solution  (and Bill's).  "Better" is in 
> the eye of the beholder (blue is the better color :>).
>
> the two statements that you and Bill both made seem to agree on is the set 
> screw would deflect the chuck when tightened and that the set screw might not 
> hold.  This morning I got out my dial indicator and measured the run out of 
> the chuck with the chuck bottomed out on the head stock threads, with the 
> chuck loose on the threads, and with the set screw tightened down.  the run 
> out was less than .001" difference in all 3 scenarios.  As to the set screw 
> not holding, I said (in my video) it holds fine (believe it or not) and if 
> you are not sure, add a second or third set screw.  I therefore stand by my 
> idea that my idea is a valid solution to the problem of timing the piece and 
> holding it on center.  the cost of the set screw is cheap, consistent, and 
> easy to set up. What more can anyone ask for.
>
> Lastly, if you are turning any piece on centers (both ends of the piece on 
> center pins), the run out is determined by the center pins.  The face plate 
> is design to hold the piece during turning, not true to center.  if you turn 
> by bolting to the face plate only (no tail stock pin) the outer diameter run 
> out is an issue.  the 4 pins are there to force the piece to turn with the 
> face plate rotation and not stay centered unless you are using the indexing 
> hub (no center pin).  That has a 4 points of contact to hold the centering of 
> the head stock and run out can then become more of an issue.  
>
> I hope I explained my point of view adequately :>), If after using this idea 
> for a while, I find it to not work as designed, I promise to let you know.
>
> Russ
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 3:33:48 PM UTC-6, russ veinot wrote:
>>
>> you can see my newest video on youtube 
>> at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g6wzIW1HvM
>>
>> it's about how to index and lock down the 4 jaw chuck to the head stock, 
>> just like the locking index hub.  you can then use custom face plates for 
>> everything.
>>
>> all comments are welcome,
>> Russ
>
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RE: new video on on the legacy

[Tim Krause]

I have to agree with Bill on this one.  A better solution is to use a 1" 
locking collar with a dowel pin that mates to your chuck.  For example part 801 
on this page. 

http://lignolathe.com/en/face_plate_system/index.htm

The collar gives the chuck a place to seat and the lock collar prevents the 
chuck from un-winding.  

Further reference:  http://ornamentalmills.com/tips/spindle_shoulder/index.html

-TimOn Dec 7, 2017 2:26 PM, Bill Bulkeley  wrote:
>
> For the first time I have to say I’m not fond of this idea you need the chuck 
> to lock up tight to run true loosened the chuck can run out slightly and also 
> if the grub screw screws down on the headstock thread it would damage it. 
> Perhaps a brass grub screw might help but the run out of the chuck is still 
> there and the larger the face plate the more run out it will be and on large 
> work I’m sure you defiantly would need more than one grub screw to hold I’m 
> sorry russ I still like legacy’s double locking collar better. perhaps a 
> rotating face plate or something  as an alternative might be better without 
> having to loosen the chuck 
>
>
>
> Bill 
>
>
>
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of russ veinot 
> Sent: Friday, 8 December 2017 8:34 AM 
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Subject: new video on on the legacy 
>
>
>
> you can see my newest video on youtube 
> at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g6wzIW1HvM 
>
>
>
> it's about how to index and lock down the 4 jaw chuck to the head stock, just 
> like the locking index hub.  you can then use custom face plates for 
> everything. 
>
>
>
> all comments are welcome, 
>
> Russ 
>
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>
>
>
>
> 
>  
>
> Virus-free.  
> 
>  www.avg.com 
>
>

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Re: Woodchuck Dust Collection

[Tim Krause]

Nope.  

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Nov 29, 2017, 3:59 AM, at 3:59 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>Did you ever get any replies about the brush system 
>
>On Sunday, August 26, 2012 at 5:47:57 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>>
>> You Woodchuck owners are holding out on the new school machine
>owners.  I 
>> just learned of a dust collection system that Phantom Engineering use
>to 
>> sell.  It was basically a box that mounted to the router carriage. 
>There 
>> where brushes turned sideways that allowed a spindle to pass through
>the 
>> box.   The box would bolt from the bottom of the carriage.  A 2"
>vacuum 
>> hose connected to the box to suck out the dust. 
>>  
>> I'm begging you lurkers, if anyone has a picture of this accessory I
>sure 
>> would love to see it!  Contact me off list if you want.  
>>  
>> Now I can see the limitations of this system, but I still think it's
>an 
>> important step in solving the dust problem that many people have.  
>>  
>> -Tim
>>  
>>
>
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RE: A response from Andy Anderson Of Legacy Regarding Support.

[Tim Krause]

Russ, there's no need to forward your message as the groups messages are being 
monitored by Legacy.

-Tim 

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Re: If you have not been watching!​

[Tim Krause]

Hello All,

I've been away from my computers since Wed of last week and I came back 
today seeing this thread.  We have very few rules in this group and as 
the moderator I've tried to guide this group towards creating positive 
experiences for all owners regardless of where the equipment came 
from.   I wrote the preamble of the groups mission so many years ago and 
yet today I feel it remains true to the goals of the group and our 
cyber-world that we created.  For those that have never seen my 
introduction, I will post it here.


"Welcome to the /*Legacy Ornamental Mills*/ support group.

We are a group of individuals interested in learning how to use Legacy / 
Phantom Engineering's equipment.  Our group has a wide range of members 
from the hobbyist to the full time professional wood workers.  Our 
members own a wide range of equipment ranging from the original IRT 
model, woodchuck series, the newer style red machines and even CNC 
upgrades and fully CNC models.  We welcome all Legacy equipment owners 
and prospective buyer.  Please note that we are not affiliated with 
Legacy or Phantom Engineering.


Our official Website can be found at ORNAMENTALMILLS.COM 
. There you will find some past articles 
that have been highlighted.  There is only a small portion of tips 
stored there. The real gold can be found by looking at some of the older 
messages.  In time it will be expanded and remodel to reflect the real 
extent of our users knowledge.  Until then, we strongly encourage new 
members to ask questions.  Please don't be shy or concerned about asking 
what might appear to be a dumb question. Often the simple questions lead 
to some rather exciting solutions.   Please feel free to post images of 
your work or machines to the group.  Photos help convey messages.  Do 
you have a project or tutorial you would like to share?  Those are 
always well received!


This group is an international group.  We don't talk about politics, sex 
or religion. Please refrain from any personal attacks against fellow 
members and Legacy business related problems.  The members of the group 
have pretty strong feeling about keeping this group a positive place to 
share and work through any problems you might have.


Final word, this group requires participation in order to thrive. Please 
take a moment to introduce yourself, and join in the conversation. "



Briefly, regarding parts availability in the future.  Many of the older 
group owners have been aware of my efforts in the past to provide 
updates to our equipment to expand the use of the machines.  I have the 
ability to virtually manufacture any part you need.  I know I'm not the 
only one, but I do know I am the first one to provide tangible parts.  
Joe B. made a generous offer of split nuts to the group and no one took 
advantage of the offer.  Why is that?


Our equipment may not have factory support, but as members of a 
collective, we certainly have the resources to keep the current machines 
available alive for the current and future generation to enjoy.


Final plea and comment.  Please post your projects, ask questions, 
answer a question and be civil.  Peace be with us all.


-Tim



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Re: Need LOM dogs and split nut

[Tim Krause]

If that does not work, I can supply however many dogs you would like.  Did Joe 
B. sell all of the split nuts he made this summer?

On Nov 4, 2017 5:46 PM, Joe Gassen  wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim, Ill call back Monday! 
>
>
> On Saturday, November 4, 2017 at 4:40:55 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote: 
> > 
> > Call Legacy back and ask for Cindy.  She is in charge of the parts for the 
> > manual machines the last time I checked.On Nov 3, 2017 5:05 PM, Russ Veinot 
> >  wrote: 
> > > 
> > > BUY EXTRA !! :>) 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  [mailto: 
> > legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of Joe 
> > G 
> > > Sent: Friday, November 03, 2017 6:51 PM 
> > > To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
> > > Subject: Re: Need LOM dogs and split nut 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Thanks guys for the help. I called Legacy and the man that answered said 
> > he would have someone call me back and he thought they had the parts. 
> > > 
> > > No call yet..fingers crossed! 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 6:31 PM, CURTIS GEORGE  > > wrote: 
> > > 
> > > Hello again Joe 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > do you still have the old split nut?  Its just the upper half you need? 
> > If so I may be some help for you.  I own a home made tap for the 5/8 x 4 
> > acme screw. I can tap a piece of durlin (SP?) plastic for you, then you can 
> > cut it to fit... 
> > > 
> > > Please let me know if you still need help on this? 
> > > 
> > > more latter. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > C.A.G. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >   _  
> > > 
> > > From: "Joe Gassen"  
> > > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills"  > > 
> > > Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 12:07:33 PM 
> > > Subject: Need LOM dogs and split nut 

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RE: Need LOM dogs and split nut

[Tim Krause]

Call Legacy back and ask for Cindy.  She is in charge of the parts for the 
manual machines the last time I checked.On Nov 3, 2017 5:05 PM, Russ Veinot 
 wrote:
>
> BUY EXTRA !! :>) 
>
>
>
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe G 
> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2017 6:51 PM 
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
> Subject: Re: Need LOM dogs and split nut 
>
>
>
> Thanks guys for the help. I called Legacy and the man that answered said he 
> would have someone call me back and he thought they had the parts. 
>
> No call yet..fingers crossed! 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 6:31 PM, CURTIS GEORGE  wrote: 
>
> Hello again Joe 
>
>
>
> do you still have the old split nut?  Its just the upper half you need? If so 
> I may be some help for you.  I own a home made tap for the 5/8 x 4 acme 
> screw. I can tap a piece of durlin (SP?) plastic for you, then you can cut it 
> to fit... 
>
> Please let me know if you still need help on this? 
>
> more latter. 
>
>
>
> C.A.G. 
>
>
>
>   _  
>
> From: "Joe Gassen"  
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills"  
> Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 12:07:33 PM 
> Subject: Need LOM dogs and split nut 
>
>
>
> I sent an e-mail but later found this board. 
>
> I have an older steel rail LOM and have recently begun to use it again. 
>
> I need at least two of the 4 prong dogs that fit the headstock mad will also 
> need a split nut in the future for the 5/8 acme. 
>
> Any help will be appreciated since I see Legacy no longer supports the older 
> LOM s and have also taken down the old training videos. 
>
> Thx all 
>
>
>
> Joe 
>
>
>

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Re: Dovetails

[Tim Krause]

The measuring rule originally came from oregonrule.com.  I'm not sure if they 
send their products outside of the USA.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Sep 6, 2017, 3:46 AM, at 3:46 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>I have a Revo, and have been cutting box (finger ) joints using *Mike's
>
>indexing method,* 3/8" up-cutting two flute spiral milling cutter. I
>have 
>been very surprised at the accuracy of the joints.
>One thing I did do was to change the crank handle over -top to bottom-
>when 
>doing the mating piece  as I found out to hold it in a vertical
>position 
>was more difficult than holding it down
>However I want to do some dovetails* I have no templates* how do I go
>about 
>it?? The pins are easy, it's the mating part. That I am not too sure
>about.
>Roger,
>How many Revo's are in there in the u.k. and can one still get the
>stick 
>on measure tape for the Revo, the long one??
>Richard
>
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Re: New Legacy video on youtube

[Tim Krause]

I bought said vise at a garage sale for $5.00 and a friend cleaning out his 
garage gave me another vise with all the goodies and the so called lathe. The 
lathe was a separate device in a box.  Meant to be driven by a drill.  I've 
never used any of it.  Clamping the vice to the rails is a slick idea.  Might 
need to play with it.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 22, 2017, 9:56 PM, at 9:56 PM, CURTIS GEORGE  
wrote:
>Didn't that set-up have its own lathe attachment, using a drill for the
>motor...? If so Russ, you might have some more goodies to show with
>your set-up? 
>
>C.A.G. 
>
>- Original Message -
>
>From: "carstenstigers"  
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2017 8:53:45 AM 
>Subject: RE: New Legacy video on youtube 
>
>Bought mine at the woodworking shows here in the states. Was a new and
>got soaked as it came with all sorts of accessories but have used it a
>bunch over the years. I have a dvd it came with some where, I will see
>if I can locate it. It shows how to do a whole bunch of stuff I never
>did 
>
>
>
>Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone 
>
>
> Original message  
>From: Russ Veinot  
>Date: 8/22/17 08:38 (GMT-05:00) 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>Subject: RE: New Legacy video on youtube 
>
>
>
>I do have a vice for vises :>) I own 2 zyliss’s. I bought one with no
>accessories (less than $20) and the second one was the whole package in
>its original case ($50). I keep one on the LOM milling table and one on
>my workbench. 
>
>
>
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
>Bawdsey64 
>Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2017 4:42 AM 
>To: Bill Bulkeley; Mike Pung 
>Subject: RE: New Legacy video on youtube 
>
>
>
>
>
>​Hi Bill 
>
>Second hand in UK you pay between $35 & $70 for Zyliss Vise, new with
>taxes around double that. If you need a manual or video to fully
>utilise it then just Google as it is all out there you tight wad! 
>Cheers 
>
>Roger 
>
>
>Sent from TouchMail for Windows 10 
>
>
>​ 
>
>
>
>
>From: Bill Bulkeley 
>
>
>Received: 22/08/2017 10:34:50 +01:00 
>
>
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>
>
>a zyliss vise so that’s what they are I bought mine at a garage sale
>for 5 bucks didn’t know what it was it just looked handy he wanted 10
>but I talked him down to 5 I imagine they are a bit more expensive than
>that but. 
>
>
>
>Bill 
>
>
>
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [
>mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of Russ
>Veinot 
>Sent: Tuesday, 22 August 2017 11:14 AM 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>Subject: RE: New Legacy video on youtube 
>
>
>
>
>Thanks bill. I plan on making a clip to attach to different rulers. As
>to the “multivice thingos”, it’s a zyliss vise. I love that thingo :>)
>it’s like the swiss army knife of vises. Do search on youtube on the
>name and you’ll find several demo videos. It was worth every penny I
>paid for it on ebay. Don’t tell anyone, I am addicted to vises like
>others are addicted to plum bobs, handplanes, or handsaws, or . . .
>well, you get the idea. I’ll do a video on my milling table soon (If
>interested) and show how I use the vise. 
>
>
>
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [
>mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of Bill
>Bulkeley 
>Sent: Monday, August 21, 2017 5:09 PM 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>Subject: RE: New Legacy video on youtube 
>
>
>
>
>Really neat idea for the ruler russ i like it .i think i might
>incorporate a locking screw rather than tape to hold it but its a
>really neat idea 
>
>I like your vertical vice too i see in the video i have one of those
>multivice thingos as well i might work that into my legacy as well 
>
>
>
>Bill 
>
>
>
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [
>mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of russ
>veinot 
>Sent: Tuesday, 22 August 2017 4:51 AM 
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>Subject: New Legacy video on youtube 
>
>
>
>
>
>I just posted a new LOM video on youtube.
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox2sQh5LNpI 
>
>
>it's about how to zero out x, y, & z axis and how to make a story stick
>for your work. all comments are welcomed. 
>
>
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Re: Rotary Table Height

[Tim Krause]

Legacy never sold a rotary table for Revo is BS unless the item shown in their 
instructions is non-produced.  It was smaller than the 900/1200/1800/1000 
machines.  Richard, can you photograph your rotary table?

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 9, 2017, 5:05 AM, at 5:05 AM, Bawdsey64  wrote:
>​Hi Richard
>Don't blame Legacy, they never sold a rotary table for the REVO. That
>is fact confirmed by the Big Dog himself earlier today when I spoke to
>him. That Rotary Table was designed for 900, 1200 etc.
>Regards
>Roger
>
>
>
>Sent from TouchMail for Windows 10 [http://bit.ly/1PH8eIw]
>​
>
>
>From: Richard Ellis
>Received: 09/08/2017 12:08:48 +01:00
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Bill
>When using the rotary table for the very first time, the handle came
>loose, it just did not rotate the table, it seemed as if it was only
>half on. so tried to move it nearer to the table-it would not.
>Tried to remove it to find out the problem, it was quite difficult to
>get off owing to the burs on the round shaft. Why no flat for the grub
>screw to clamp on.?
>Next---, went to fit the Universal joint to the spindle drive. did not
>go on far enough-- the round part of the drive had score marks
>because of the fact that the recess in the Uni joint was not deep
>enough.I then checked the main rod of the Uni joint. Have Legacy never
>heard of a milling machine and the fact that one should not grub screw
>to round shafts.
>As you say it is a great little machine but it seems I am spending far
>too much putting Legacy's shoddy workmanship to rights.
>It seems to me over the years they are in too much of a hurry to bring
>out a new model, instead of making the first one properly.
>Hence feeling a bit peed off at the moment.
>Richard 
>
>On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 11:45:10 AM UTC+1, aussiman wrote:
>Sell the revo what on earth for a great little mill
> 
>Bill
> 
>From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard
>Ellis
>Sent: Wednesday, 9 August 2017 8:19 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Cc: rchrd@gmail.com; legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: Rotary Table Height
> 
>Roger
>I did not want to alter the Revo, as Martin was promised it back if I
>decided to sell it.
>Planing MDF is not a healthy thing to do unless well ventilated. I have
>been Routing a lot of Plywood and it upset me rather badly, a sore
>place on my face and a retching session, have just come back from the
>Doctor. Even though I was wearing a mask the air was polluted for a
>long long time
>Am now thinking of selling the Revo and all the bits that came with it.
>as Martin does not now want it back..
>Richard
>
>On Sunday, August 6, 2017 at 5:24:57 PM UTC+1, ITwoodwork wrote:
>​Hi  Richard
>Why not plane the board that is on the rotary table down to your
>required thickness?
>Just a suggestion.
>Roger & Out!
>
>Sent from TouchMail for Windows 10 [http://bit.ly/1PH8eIw]
>​
> 
>From: Richard Ellis
>Received: 06/08/2017 17:02:42 +01:00
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Today I fitted my Rotary Table to the Revo. It does not seem to have
>much height for hollowing out bowls  only 21/4 "--- The other thing
>I have found ,the waste board, it's 3/4 " thick and appears to have
>been glued on. I can not see any woodscrews  holding it,,. Is that
>normal ?
>If I put a thinner waste board I could gain another half inch.
>Is there another way of lowering the table ?
>Cheers 
>Richard
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RE: Make a "Split Nut"

[Tim Krause]

Fire probably gave it a nice case hardening!   Hahaha

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 4, 2017, 1:41 AM, at 1:41 AM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Don’t let them tell you there is no 5/8x 4 tap out there I own one I
>got it years ago on ebay unfortunately it went through my house fire
> but I don’t mind it will still cut nice soft delrin ok
>
>
>
>Bill
>
>-Original Message-
>From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Friday, 4 August 2017 12:28 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: RE: Make a "Split Nut"
>
>There might be a chance that a brass split nut wears and compromises
>the lead screw... then you have a bigger problem... I have sent several
>emails to suppliers of tooling for the metal industry, and all have
>said no to a 5/8-4, right hand, acme thread tap... for now I am giving
>up and will try to make the tap from some left over acme rod I have...I
>will post the progress... Joe 
>
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RE: Make a "Split Nut"

[Tim Krause]

Curt made a tap from some leftover acme and it works good.

⁣

On Aug 3, 2017, 7:27 PM, at 7:27 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>There might be a chance that a brass split nut wears and compromises
>the lead screw... then you have a bigger problem... I have sent several
>emails to suppliers of tooling for the metal industry, and all have
>said no to a 5/8-4, right hand, acme thread tap... for now I am giving
>up and will try to make the tap from some left over acme rod I have...I
>will post the progress... Joe 
>
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Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung

[Tim Krause]

Joe, I'm seeing your pictures on a large screen and now see what you are 
pointing out about the sideways wear.  I'm wondering if a longer split 
nut would help spread out the load.  Go from a 4 thread engagement to a 
6 or 8. Is that that the split nut from your monster machine?


The wear patterns I see is the thread gets deeper and the split nut does 
not fully seat.  That's why sanding away the bottom surface works.   You 
need to catch it early before the nut is nearly ruined like yours.


Stan brings up an interesting idea about using a 3d printer.  Is nylon 
6/6 available for those machines?  Possibly a material change to a 
harder plastic might help such as nylon 6 or PTFE. These are thoughts 
off the top of my head.  Tensile strength may vary :-).



On 8/3/2017 7:00 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me 
on my recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the 
action/movement of the lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear 
sideways, especially when using a drive motor...


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Re: Make a "Split Nut"

[Tim Krause]

HDPE is a little soft.  Over on another machinist form that I'm on people have 
heated a lead screw and pressed acetal  (delrin) around the screw to form 
threads.  It takes multiple heating attempts and practice.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 3, 2017, 9:23 AM, at 9:23 AM, MWF  wrote:
>Hello all,
>I am not sure how well a split nut made from HDPE will hold up - but
>here is my 2-cents' worth:
>HDPE (Look on bottom of plastic jugs, bottles, etc for the Recycle
>symbol w/the #2) is the only plastic that I know of that we can
>"re-purpose" at home.
>Do an Internet/BING search for this - you'll be amazed.
>
>I find that the plastic Folgers and Maxwell House coffee canisters are
>labeled #2 - as are most milk jugs.  The two coffee brands yield red
>and blue plastic respectively.
>My thought is that you embed a matching Acme rod into the mold you melt
>the #2 plastic in. Once cooled, you should be able to "unscrew" the rod
>from the plastic billet.  You then cut/machine the billet to the
>exterior measurements you need and then split it down the center line. 
>"Machining" can be done with your router, bandsaw, etc.
>
>Does anyone have an idea of how well the #2 plastic (HDPE) will hold
>up?  Even if it wears down after 6 months of use - you will be able to
>reuse that worn out piece, with some added #2 plastic, and melt/mold a
>new piece.  If your mold & billet is long enough, you can produce a
>year's-worth in one mold.
>
>If anyone tries this - or something similar, please share pictures and
>results.
>
>Mac
>_
>_
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>Sent: Aug 3, 2017 10:00 AM 
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>Subject: Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung 
>
>i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me on
>my recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the action/movement
>of the lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear sideways,
>especially when using a drive motor...think of each cross section of
>thread as a square(see photo)...I measured the cross section of the
>thread(in a new nut) to be .140" wide...in the photo of the worn nut,
>that same dimension is down to .065...so you could say the thread went
>from 1/8" full(new) to 1/16"...and sanding the nut down is not going to
>improve the function of the nut, in my opinion...maybe early on you can
>sand the nut to get a bit more life out of it, but that's it...the key
>to solving this problem is finding the 5/8-4 acme thread tap...once you
>have the tap, to make a new split nut is somewhat simple...and anyone
>who has that "hinged" split nut, I would swap that out and set up a
>sliding split nut...much more problematic to make that hinged split
>nut...so, if any member knows where to get that tap, here or overseas,
>please let the group know...I certainly would like to purchase
>one...barring that, I would also attempt to make a tap from some acme,
>threaded rod, if I had to...and the casting idea is also an excellent
>idea...joe b.
>
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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

Funny!  I wish I could remember the name of the owner.  I recall it was an eBay 
purchase that had everything except the manual.  I'm thinking I helped the new 
owner assemble it.  Either that or I helped him sell the thing on eBay and made 
sure most of the parts were there. It's been six or seven years probably.

⁣Tim


On Aug 3, 2017, 10:47 AM, at 10:47 AM, MWF <mwfos...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Tim,
>If you ship it to me - I'll take pictures of the process of assembling
>it and send them to you.
>At that point, it will be too large & unwieldy to send back to you - so
>I'll have to "store" it for you here.  
>Thanks for sharing.
>Mac
>_
>_____
>
>-Original Message- 
>From: Tim Krause 
>Sent: Aug 2, 2017 4:45 PM 
>To: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>Subject: Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?) 
>
>One last thing, a photo of a brand new unassembled model1000/1500.
>
> 
>
>Notice the Modern style split nut in the lower right hand.  I really do
>think that is the last photo in my personal collection of images.
>
>-Tim
>
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Re: Revo Spindle Drive

[Tim Krause]

That's a big motor for turning the stock!  Thanks for showing us.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 3, 2017, 7:12 AM, at 7:12 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>Here is a pic of the Drive motor to the Revo spindle, It works well.
>and 
>the only slight problem I have had is the crank handle, not enough
>crank to 
>miss the drive belt,Woodchuck one has more crank so I use that
>when 
>drive motor is not needed  (short Pieces ) The handle can stay on all
>the 
>time.
>Richard
>
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Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung

[Tim Krause]

If your nut is turning sideways, there is too much friction in the system.  Now 
I don't know if this applies to the early machines, but the top hat bushings in 
the new machines are notorious for this problem.  There was a final update to 
the split nut that had shoulders that prevented the split nut from twisting, 
but without solving the friction issue it lead to stripping the nut instead of 
just twisting the nut out of the holder.  I don't have a picture of this, but 
there is a conversation in the group that had a photo.

Knowing what I know now, I would make a tap from a piece of existing acme.  I 
do own a 5/8-4 acme tap that I imported from England via a eBay seller.  There 
is nobody in the states that would even entertain the idea of one.  If I 
recall, they were old stock and never made again by the supplier.  If anyone 
has a source, it would be good to know about.


⁣

On Aug 3, 2017, 7:00 AM, at 7:00 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me on
>my 
>recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the action/movement of
>the 
>lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear sideways, especially when
>
>using a drive motor...think of each cross section of thread as a
>square(see 
>photo)...I measured the cross section of the thread(in a new nut) to be
>
>.140" wide...in the photo of the worn nut, that same dimension is down
>to 
>.065...so you could say the thread went from 1/8" full(new) to
>1/16"...and 
>sanding the nut down is not going to improve the function of the nut,
>in my 
>opinion...maybe early on you can sand the nut to get a bit more life
>out of 
>it, but that's it...the key to solving this problem is finding the
>5/8-4 
>acme thread tap...once you have the tap, to make a new split nut is 
>somewhat simple...and anyone who has that "hinged" split nut, I would
>swap 
>that out and set up a sliding split nut...much more problematic to make
>
>that hinged split nut...so, if any member knows where to get that tap,
>here 
>or overseas, please let the group know...I certainly would like to
>purchase 
>one...barring that, I would also attempt to make a tap from some acme, 
>threaded rod, if I had to...and the casting idea is also an excellent 
>idea...joe b.
>
>

>
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Attention All Users - Subject Line Behavior Change

[Tim Krause]

Attention Everyone,

It has been brought to my attention that the groups messages are no 
longer threading messages correctly based on the subject line. Messages 
sent via emails or changing the subject line in the web interface will 
no longer create a new thread.  This is something that is out of my 
control but needs to be paid attention to.


To be perfectly clear, when starting a new subject, you must create a 
fresh new email message (no quoted text or subject change) or create a 
"New Topic" off the main page in the web interface.  Otherwise your new 
thread will get lost under another thread.


I have also noticed there is a different version of the google groups 
interface when using an Android tablet.  Several features are missing.  
I don't know if this applies to Apple users.


If you have any questions, feel free to ask.  Thanks to all that have 
been posting recently, new messages keep this group alive. New


-Tim


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Last Test Ignore

[Tim Krause]

Nothing to see here...please move along.

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Ignore this Trouble shooting an issue

[Tim Krause]

There is an issue.  Do no respond to this message.

-Tim



On 7/31/2017 9:33 PM, Bill Bulkeley wrote:


Nice but how do you see what’s going on when milling

Bill

*From:*legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ 
Veinot

*Sent:* Tuesday, 1 August 2017 10:20 AM
*To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* RE: new video on youtube, dust collection

Sorry, I gave the wrong link to the legacy video.  The right one is 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvtOb84CmRw=12s


*From:*legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ 
Veinot

*Sent:* Monday, July 31, 2017 5:58 PM
*To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
*Subject:* new video on youtube, dust collection

I just publish another video about dust collection improvements on my 
1200 if interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogy_c94Yt3o=192s


Comments are always welcome :>)

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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

You're welcome, I learned something as well.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 2, 2017, 3:15 PM, at 3:15 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>well, that explains why the nut on my machine is not split...I would be
>
>curious as to why legacy would offer it as an option when it is such a 
>minor upgrade...include it with every machine and just up the price a
>few 
>dollars...and you have also explained the different types of split nuts
>
>used for the X axis...I looking at ads for the legacy on ebay,
>craigslist, 
>etc. I have seen the angled nut, the split nut, an in-and-out
>nut...don't 
>know if they were original to the machine or added/improvised at a
>later 
>date...all interesting info and much appreciated tim...thanks...joe
>
>

>
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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

Joe,

Do you have two wing nuts that connect the router base to your solid acme nut 
on the y axis?  That also appears to be another method to allow the axis to 
float with the solid nut version.

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 2, 2017, 2:16 PM, at 2:16 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>wow tim!...incredible photos and many thanks...here is some additional
>info 
>that is now better explained, thanks to you...I do not have the "L"
>shaped, 
>nylon blocks on the underside of the Y carriage, as I now see in your 
>photos...they were replaced by a previous owner with an oak wood and
>ball 
>bearing set up that is a bit sub-standard for me (i.e. rube
>Goldberg)...I 
>also see that the Y axis acme screw has it's own split nut...my Y axis
>does 
>not have a split nut, just a solid, nylon block, with the 5/8-4 acme
>thread 
>in it and attached to the router mounting plate...so there is currently
>no 
>way to disengage the Y movement from the threaded rod...I can mod that
>out 
>without much work with some of the extra parts I have, so no issue
>there, 
>but I am glad to have seen it in your photos...I have already begun
>setting 
>up the X axis on a linear bearing...and actually it seems it will be
>quite 
>an easy job and at a nominal expense($120.00 +/- total)...it will not
>allow 
>the carriage to be lifted off the rails and the tolerances(vertical and
>
>front-to-back) will be very tight and yet allow the carriage to slide 
>easily...and the tolerances will be easily adjustable, if ever
>needed...I 
>am also converting the headstock to ball bearings...it currently has
>some 
>1/4", black nylon "pads" as a bearing, but I could see those not
>lasting 
>very long, especially under heavier-than-normal loads...that too was
>not 
>expensive, but will require jamming a lot into that small headstock 
>"box"...but I have laid it out and it is doable...and I will be posting
>
>photos, of course...not going to go the full monty with this machine,
>as I 
>did before, LOL...but just some needed repairs/upgrades that were 
>necessary, and I thought while I was doing that, why not spend a little
>
>more time and make it a better machine...my intention is to use this 
>machine for smaller work and leave the big guy set up to do the longer 
>poles and larger work we do...and if I should ever get a manual, you
>will 
>be the first person I send a copy to...again, many thanks...joe
>
>
>>
>
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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

New details,

The model 1000 the y axis leadscrew was an option.  It came without a split 
nut.  It was a block of delrin tapped for the acme thread.  If you wanted to 
move the y axis freely you would remove one screws and that would set it free.  
The split nut was yet another option that made using the y axis easier.  The 
source of this information is from a project video that features the model 1000 
steel version.

Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 2, 2017, 2:34 PM, at 2:34 PM, Tim  wrote:
>This is driving me a little nutty,
>
>The split nut that you show photographed was on the early model
>1000/1500 
>machines.  I've now seen this in a Legacy video.  When and how they
>went to 
>the modern split nut escapes me.  I don't know if it was an upgrade
>option 
>or simply a newer model 1000/1500 change.  Any help would be
>appreciated to 
>clear this up.
>
>I do recall a model 1000 aluminum machine has an angled mount and split
>nut 
>as shown on my carriage photos.  I can't get to mine to verify at the 
>moment.
>
>-Tim
>
>
>On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 1:17:25 PM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>>
>> Confused, that looks like a split nut like a Woodchuck version...  
>>
>> -Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

They where uhmw, and they have slotted mounting holes in the carriage.  
Also notice that there is no mechanism to keep the carriage held to the 
rails.  It just lifts up.


That's all I know about this subject.

-Tim

PS, Credit to Mike Pung for allowing me to take photos of his carriage.


On 8/1/2017 5:29 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
hey tim!...thanks for the info...any details on what the Y carriage 
slid on?...i'm guessing some kind of nylon pads, but i'm curious if 
there was a way to adjust them if there was a bit of play between the 
carriage and the rails...perhaps a group member who has this machine 
can post some photos...and the manual situation seems very 
strange...no manual has surfaced to date?...well, hopefully someone is 
reading these posts and will offer the group a copy...again, thanks 
for the input...joe



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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

Confused, that looks like a split nut like a Woodchuck version...

-Tim



On 8/1/2017 5:44 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
here is a photo of the split nut used on the lead screw...a bit odd as 
it hinges open and closed...certainly very difficult to replace when 
it becomes worn out and most likely I will set up a split block that 
was used in later machines...the later type is easier to copy and make 
from scratch...trying to avoid getting too involved with this 
machine...I do have a use for it and I got it on the cheap, but 
finances dictate that I can't do my typical "mod" thing...but since 
there are no parts available, (especially for this earlier, 20 year 
old machine) I guess I have no choice...thanks...joe



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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

Joe,

Can you take a photo of the torn up split nut.  I'm curious about something.

-Tim


On 8/1/2017 7:50 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
well, the legacy gods smiled upon me today!...that hinged, split nut 
was a mess...the bracket was poorly made by a previous owner and the 
threads were very worn...so I looked through my extra parts and found 
what you see in the two photos...a new, split nut that was left over 
perhaps from my wood chuck machine or the 1200 that I used to extend 
the 1800...I don't remember, but there it was...interesting that it 
attached to the carriage like it was meant to be, and that it is 
angled, not up and down like on the 1800 and other, later legacy 
machines...and I even have another, threaded half of the split nut, as 
a spare, if this one ever wears out(certainly not in my 
lifetime!)...so that was a 10 minute upgrade/repair...and so it 
begins, bringing this machine up to a much better, user friendly, 
condition...the legacy gremlins are now harassing me to continue, 
LOL!...god help me!...joe b.




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Re: need help in identifying a 1500 (?)

[Tim Krause]

Hi Joe,

Yes that is a model 1500 in theory.  Essentially a model 1500 is the same as a 
model 1000 except for it came with all the options.  It was built pre 1998.  
The gears that you are seeing are the same as all of the modern aluminum rail 
model 1000.  They are fine pitch so the main gear of the modern machines will 
not work.

The headstock is not a stock model.  The slots do make an interesting idea.  On 
the early machines with no tilt the user would mill from the side to get a 
taper.  Something few people it think even try.

We do not have a copy of the manual for that machine and unfortunately neither 
does Legacy.  If anyone does, please pass it on to myself for legal copyrights 
and distribution.

Did I cover everything?

Tim

As far as the 

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jul 31, 2017, 12:16 PM, at 12:16 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental 
Mills  wrote:
>just picked up this legacy and need assistance in identifying it...I
>looked 
>in the "history of ornamental mills", and it seems this is a 1500 (or 
>1500L?)...the photos show it is of the type with the 1 1/2" X 1 1/2", 
>square , steel tubing as a bed and "uni-strut P-1000" as the
>rails...can 
>anyone pinpoint the year or time frame this machine was made?...serial
># is 
>1656C...has some things that seem a bit odd to me, that if anyone could
>
>explain, would be appreciated(see follow up comments)...also looking
>for 
>the assembly manual/owner's manual, if anyone has that...certainly a 
>download would do...I will include other pictures and/or requests in
>follow 
>up posts...thanks...joe biunno
>
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Re: Wiring diagram

[Tim Krause]

Keep us posted.

⁣

On Jul 21, 2017, 2:50 AM, at 2:50 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Tim
>That lovejoy sounds a good idea, I have had other machines that used
>that 
>system . It is a Dayton that I am changing from the Woodchuck to the
>Revo  
>Little bit of metal lathe work,welding and drilling fixing plates etc.
>Easy 
>job. Limit switches will need changing,awful type but that is about
>all.
>So the Woodchuck will now be the one to have a new control for the 
>leadscrew. On hold for now.
>More later, when I have finished the conversion, it should make the
>Revo a 
>better tool. then it's back to wiring up the Woodchuck, that is for
>later 
>when I get all the components.
>Cheers
>Richard
>
>On Friday, July 21, 2017 at 9:54:01 AM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>>
>> Hahahaha, yes about the voltage but everyone knows it's the amps that
>
>> kill! 
>>
>> So if you are working with the old woodchuck system, it uses a 90vdc 
>> motor.  I would think the motor would still have the name plate.  The
>
>> motors where mostly sourced through a company called Dayton and sold
>here 
>> in the states at a company called Grainger's.  
>>
>> The potentiometer is actually the speed and voltage converter.  It's
>been 
>> discontinued for a long time.  Take a look inside the box, it's
>really 
>> simple.
>>
>> The newer machines have a LoveJoy connector on the end of the shaft.
>It 
>> has two metal components with rubber spider in between them.  For
>reference 
>> https://catalog.farmchem.com/l09558 .  It works well.  The motor side
>
>> coupler slides away for free spinning.  The other side connects to a
>5/8" 
>> shaft that connects to the lead screw with a solid coupler.  Does
>that make 
>> sense?  I think I can find a photo if you need one.
>>
>> Hope that helps a little.  
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> Sent from BlueMail  
>> On Jul 20, 2017, at 11:41 PM, Richard Ellis > > wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim
>>> Thanks for the answer, If there has been no wiring diagram for the 
>>> Legacy, that is all I needed to know. I was a little surprised that
>no one 
>>> asked what power voltage I was thinking of using, could have been 12
>or 24 
>>> volt dc as i;e Windscreen wiper motors,.I don't think that would
>kill me ! 
>>> ! !?? 
>>> I did smile to myself re the safety lessons, all good knowledge and
>I do 
>>> not get offended, so thanks to the others who responded.
>>> NOW ! Yesterday I started changing the Drive unit from the old
>Woodchuck 
>>> to the Revo. It is 110 volt of course and runs through the
>transformer 240 
>>> volt  The end of the leadscrew had been just cut off and the collar 
>>> complete with grub screw fastened,-- not good engineering in
>my 
>>> book,-hit and miss as to where the grub screw grips??
>>> More about it later
>>> Richard
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 11:29:19 PM UTC+1, Tim wrote:

 Well I knew my generic answer was not going to be enough.  I'm not
>aware 
 of a wiring diagram for the legacy drive system.  It was all
>pre-wired and 
 the manuals only showed where to and how to mount the components to
>the 
 machine.

 Since you are familiar with electronic, I'm not sure where you need
>
 help.  I can't give you a wiring diagram for components that I
>don't know 
 that you are using.  

 Tim


 Sent from BlueMail  
 On Jul 20, 2017, at 4:46 AM, Richard Ellis 
>wrote:
>
> Roger 
>  I asked for a wiring diagram, No good looking at the wires
>---I 
> HAVE NONE regards safety, I have an always do take note !!
>However 
> I do not think a wiring diagram as used by legacy is going to kill
>me. I 
> have been involved with electrics for many years, *A wiring
>diagram is 
> what I am after*
>
> Richard
>
> On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 9:23:37 AM UTC+1, ITwoodwork wrote:
>>
>> ​Hi Guys
>>
>> Given Tim's information any competent electrician should be able
>to 
>> investigate the wiring and draw a circuit diagram or schematic. 
>Otherwise 
>> leave the electrics alone, electricity can curl your hair if you
>get a 
>> shock, it can burn and even kill you. Treat with respect,
>probably more 
>> than you might give the wife or partner.
>>
>> Roger & out.
>>
>>
>> PS I have had live demonstrations of electric shocks!
>>
>>
>> Sent from TouchMail for Windows 10 
>>
>> ​
>>
>>
>> *From:* Bill Bulkeley
>> *Received:* 20/07/2017 09:13:12 +01:00
>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>>
>> I don’t think i have ever seen a wiring diagram for the drive
>motor, 
>> controller and limit switches
>>
>> Be nice to have it hope someone does and posts it
>>
>>  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From:* 

Re: Wiring diagram

[Tim Krause]

Well I knew my generic answer was not going to be enough.  I'm not aware of a 
wiring diagram for the legacy drive system.  It was all pre-wired and the 
manuals only showed where to and how to mount the components to the machine.

Since you are familiar with electronic, I'm not sure where you need help.  I 
can't give you a wiring diagram for components that I don't know that you are 
using.  

Tim


⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jul 20, 2017, 4:46 AM, at 4:46 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Roger 
>I asked for a wiring diagram, No good looking at the wires ---I
>HAVE 
>NONE regards safety, I have an always do take note !! However I
>do 
>not think a wiring diagram as used by legacy is going to kill me. I
>have 
>been involved with electrics for many years, *A wiring diagram is what
>I am 
>after*
>
>Richard
>
>On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 9:23:37 AM UTC+1, ITwoodwork wrote:
>>
>> ​Hi Guys
>>
>> Given Tim's information any competent electrician should be able to 
>> investigate the wiring and draw a circuit diagram or schematic. 
>Otherwise 
>> leave the electrics alone, electricity can curl your hair if you get
>a 
>> shock, it can burn and even kill you. Treat with respect, probably
>more 
>> than you might give the wife or partner.
>>
>> Roger & out.
>>
>>
>> PS I have had live demonstrations of electric shocks!
>>
>>
>> Sent from TouchMail for Windows 10 
>>
>> ​
>>
>>
>> *From:* Bill Bulkeley
>> *Received:* 20/07/2017 09:13:12 +01:00
>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
>>
>> I don’t think i have ever seen a wiring diagram for the drive motor, 
>> controller and limit switches
>>
>> Be nice to have it hope someone does and posts it
>>
>>  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
>> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of
>*Richard 
>> Ellis
>> *Sent:* Thursday, 20 July 2017 5:24 PM
>> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
>> *Subject:* Wiring diagram
>>
>>  
>>
>> Hi All
>>
>> I have now got a motor for my Revo, Leadscrew but am a bit stuck
>for a 
>> wiring diagram, I assume they are the same for other Legacy non CNC
>models.
>>
>> If any one has one that shows the control box and limit switches etc.
>Can 
>> you post it on here or email me
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> -- 
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>Groups 
>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
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>send an 
>> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
>> .
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>> .
>> Visit this group at 
>> https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>>  
>>
>>
>>
>
>>
>> Virus-free. www.avg.com 
>>
>
>
>>
>>  
>>
>> -- 
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>
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RE: Wiring diagram

[Tim Krause]

I considered doing one for the legacy, but I decided it was not worth doing 
since the speed control legacy used is no longer available and difficult to 
find. Plus the stock system makes it very difficult for wires to just get 
disconnected that there is very little chances of making a mistake adding a 
stock legacy drive system.  

Another problem, there are so many alternative speed controllers that make it 
difficult to make a precise diagram.

-TIM

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jul 20, 2017, 1:13 AM, at 1:13 AM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>I don’t think i have ever seen a wiring diagram for the drive motor,
>controller and limit switches
>
>Be nice to have it hope someone does and posts it
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard
>Ellis
>Sent: Thursday, 20 July 2017 5:24 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Wiring diagram
>
> 
>
>Hi All
>
>I have now got a motor for my Revo, Leadscrew but am a bit stuck
>for a wiring diagram, I assume they are the same for other Legacy non
>CNC models.
>
>If any one has one that shows the control box and limit switches etc.
>Can you post it on here or email me
>
>Thanks
>
>Richard
>
>-- 
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>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>Virus-free. 
>
>www.avg.com 
>
> 
>
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Re: Wiring diagram

[Tim Krause]

Where are you stuck?  What kind of motor are you using?  In general terms a 
speed control includes a transformer to drop your house voltage to run the 
motor.  Legacy then used a limit switch to break the connection to the motor.  
They added an override switch to close the limit switch connection so you can 
back off the limit switch.  A dpst switch is used to control the direction of 
the motor.  It simply swaps the leads to the motor to change the direction.  Of 
course this only works on DC motors.  

More general conversation about various speed controls.  More advanced speed 
controllers use relays to change the motor directions and they have limit 
switch inputs to stop the motor.  These are much safer than the simple method 
that legacy used.  For our simple application, simple is not bad.

Finally, if you are not sure how you need to wire your motor, please seek the 
advice of a professional.  That is what help I can offer you at the moment.

-TIM

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jul 20, 2017, 12:23 AM, at 12:23 AM, Richard Ellis  
wrote:
>Hi All
>I have now got a motor for my Revo, Leadscrew but am a bit stuck
>for a 
>wiring diagram, I assume they are the same for other Legacy non CNC
>models.
>If any one has one that shows the control box and limit switches etc.
>Can 
>you post it on here or email me
>Thanks
>Richard
>
>-- 
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RE: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??

[Tim Krause]

That was the original idea for making plates.

-Tim

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Jun 28, 2017, 3:35 PM, at 3:35 PM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Pendulum router i love it . you could use it with the rotary table as
>well for some really great patterns.
>
>Lots and lots of potential here. Good one Curt. 
>
> 
>
>Bill
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of CURTIS
>GEORGE
>Sent: Thursday, 29 June 2017 1:58 AM
>To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
>Subject: Fwd: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
> 
>
>HI Guys along this line, Here is a new wooden Z axis of sorts.
>
>It's not fully tested, but it fits the bill. ;-) (ugly and wood)
>
>Off to work I go.
>
>talk to you guys in appx. 10 hours form now,
>
> 
>
>C.A.G.
>
> 
>
>  _  
>
>From: "Bawdsey64" 
>To: "CURTIS GEORGE" , "Mike Pung"
>
>Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2017 9:57:31 AM
>Subject: Re: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
> 
>
>​Hi Curtis
>
>That not ugly, that's a waste of wood!  Think of all the pens you could
>have made and sold, then with the dollars built a Z Axis out of skip
>wood and ply.
>
>Cheers
>
>Roger
>
> 
>
>
>Sent from   TouchMail for Windows 10
>
>​
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: CURTIS GEORGE
>
>Received: 28/06/2017 14:53:57 +01:00
>
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
>Russ you have been away for a while now.  talk about ugly, have you
>seen my Z axis? "MAN" it's a Frankenstein Monster. But it dose exactly
>what I want it to do. I don't care what it looks like, it what I can do
>with it to make what I want, that is  what counts.
>
>I say keep up the good work! and never stop trying to make your world a
>better place. ;-)
>
> 
>
>C.A.G.
>
>  _  
>
>From: "Russ Veinot" 
>To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2017 8:11:15 AM
>Subject: RE: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
> 
>
>All my prototypes are ugly :>)   When you see version 2.0  made of wood
>(of course) it will be much prettier. maybe someone else can make their
>own version and show us how nice they can make it. 
>
>From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard
>Ellis
>Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2017 1:42 AM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Re: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
> 
>
>Yes, I do like innovation, but the use of wood seems to make it look a
>bit heavy/ ugly (my opinion )
>
>I bought a Woodrat 900 when the Person who had changed his mind on
>selling his Revo The Dewalt router was on it and also the plunge bar,
>which I like.
>
>My old Woodchuck.. I have fitted the Large Triton router and that is
>very easy to control the up and down movements.
>
>Unfortunately the Plunge Bar can't be fitted easily to the Tritons, 
>
>Richard
>
> 
>
>On Tuesday, June 27, 2017 at 7:13:17 PM UTC+1, yknotwood wrote:
>
>Everybody does it differently.  This has worked for me and I spent less
>than $20 in total.  How much does the Woodrat plunge bar cost?  How
>long does it take to attach and set up the Woodrat plunge bar?  Not
>sure what you mean by “wood for Z Axis fittings”. 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard
>Ellis
>Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 12:52 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: Re: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
> 
>
>My Router has a Woodrat plunge bar fitted, it would be quite easy to
>control the pinch effect by making a screw thread and half nut,
>
>Video--- not too keen on wood for Z Axis fittings
>
>Richard
>
> 
>
>On Tuesday, June 27, 2017 at 5:54:48 PM UTC+1, yknotwood wrote:
>
>FYI, I have downloaded a video to youtube on my channel (russ veinot)
>about the improved Z axis control.  Please leave comments.
>
> 
>
>From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Russ
>Veinot
>Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 9:12 AM
>To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: RE: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
> 
>
> 
>
>I posted this last September but I felt the need to show this again. 
>Bill’s version is awesome but seems to be a lot of work.  Since I have
>the PC plunge router. I take advantage of the spring action of the
>router.  It is just 2 upright pieces of plywood and a cross piece
>between them.  I mounted a shop fox press screw above the router and
>the screw action pushes the router down and the router springs lift it
>back up up.  Less than an hour to make this and I have accurate control
>of depth of cut (Z axis) even while running.  I still lock the router
>height when cutting.  It was simple to make and cost only about $15 for
>the screw press.  I only have travel based on the router capacity but
>never found a need for more since I also have table height