RE: Peleng 8mm circular fisheye now in K mount?

2002-01-15 Thread Kent Gittings

Probably T-mount or something.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 4:31 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Peleng 8mm circular fisheye now in K mount?


A listing on German Ebay claims to have a Peleng 8/3.5 circular fisheye lens
in K mount:

http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1320219348

Is this possible? That would be quite a development. No mention whether it's
autoaperture.

I've written to an English-speaking Russian who sells the M42 version
everyday for $199 shipped (http://www.geocities.com/belshop/index.html),
asking him what he knows about this. I'll report his reply.

There remains my unanswered question about how someone else can be selling
Sigma 8/3.5 PKAs on EBay for under $200.


[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
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RE: Anyone shoot MF exclusively?

2002-01-11 Thread Kent Gittings

There is also an adapter to use the Pentacon Six mount lenses on the Pentax
645.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Evan Hanson
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Anyone shoot MF exclusively?


If budget is a big concern one of the great things about the Mamiya 645
system is that with a cheap adapter they can take Pentacon Six mount lenses.
These are widely available and are very cheap.  An Arsat 80mm 2.8 lens can
be had new for around $50.  Combine that with a $200 m645 or m645j body and
you have a decent system.

Evan

From: Delano Mireles
 Collin and all who responded,

 Thanks for the opinions!  Artur, sorry for the lack of clarity on my part.
 I meant Medium Format when using the abbreviation MF.

 I agree that I should probably keep the 35mm (if for no other reason to
stay
 a part of this wonderful group :-) but really invest in MF from now on if
I
 go ahead with this purchase.  I've got my lenses (28, 50, 135, 28-80,
 80-200, 70-300) and a decent flash so that should hold me for a while.

 I'm looking at going with a Mamiya - -  either 645 or RB 67 (used of
course)
 or Bronica ETRSi.  Hassy is just too expensive after the initial purchase.

 I'm also looking at the Alien Bee flash that was reviewed in this month's
 Shutterbug as well as Photoflex's Starlite system.  Anyone ever use
either?


 Thanks again,

 Delano
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RE: Bargain at KEH

2002-01-10 Thread Kent Gittings

KEH's BGN can be another dealers VG. Just means that something on it might
not be pretty. But the optics are always pristine in the ones I've gotten
from them. I bought a BGN K 200/2.5 from them several years ago. The
retractable hood had some obvious dings in it but the glass was flawless. I
just considered myself lucky to get one for $335 and used it for several
years for concert shooting with the LX I had at the time. Also had them drop
ship a BGN Sigma 21-35/3.5-4 to my hotel room in FLA once when I realized I
needed a wide angle lens. Even though I was shooting with a ZX-5n at the
time I figured that AF in the short focal lengths was something I could do
without. all because I was getting their catalogs and I found these were on
special because they had several. Never could figure out why they considered
it BGN. Still have this one.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Timothy Sherburne
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:21 PM
To: Pentax Discussion List
Subject: Bargain at KEH


Hello all...

What are your experiences buying equipment marked as bargain at KEH? How
about ugly?

t
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RE: Extra-solar Planet Imaged Optically

2002-01-10 Thread Kent Gittings

They are called brown dwarves because they have insufficient mass to trigger
fusion in the core. They emit energy due to gravitational contraction and
compression of the core. As soon as this runs out they go dark. It is a very
low frequency form of energy output. Jupiter does some of this also because
it emits slightly more energy than it would if it was all from solar
reflection.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peifer, William
[OCDUS]
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 12:41 PM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Cc: 'aimcompute'
Subject: RE: Extra-solar Planet Imaged Optically


Tom C. wrote:
 Thought some may enjoy this.  Apparently a ground based telescope
 has optically resolved a brown dwarf orbiting another star.

http://www.cnn.com/2002/TECH/space/01/07/brown.dwarf/index.html

Hi Tom,

Yeah, that's pretty cool.  If I did my arithmetic correctly, that's an
apparent separation of about one fourth of one milliarcsecond.  Even with
monster, multi-meter-class ground-based telescopes, resolution at visible
wavelengths -- without adaptive optics -- is limited to about one half of an
~arcsecond~ (i.e., 500 milliarcseconds, or about 2000 times less resolution
than these fellows obtained) because of atmospheric turbulence.  Adaptive
optics are pretty amazing.  Telescopes like the Keck can obtain theoretical
resolutions on the order of 10 milliarcseconds in the visible, and even
better in the infrared.  (Sounds like these fellows were going a step
further and doing infrared interferometry, which would boost resolution even
further.)  I just wish these science journalists would learn the
difference between brown dwarfs and planets.  Methinks they're giving the
impression to the general public that all these planets are just like
Earth, which of course is not the case at all.  Not sure where the dividing
line is between carbon stars and brown dwarfs -- IIRC, carbon stars use
heavy atoms to fuel nuclear fusion reactions, but I don't know if brown
dwarfs can do this.  They emit in the infrared, but I'm not sure what powers
this process.  Heavy-element fusion??

If you want to see something really neat, look at the January 2001 (last
year's) issue of Sky  Telescope.  I was just looking at this back issue
last night.  There's a brief note in the front about some amateurs using a
small scope (14 Schmidt-Cass, I think), a CCD, and some photometric
software to get a light curve for some star with a known short-period
extrasolar planet.  From our vantage point here on Earth, this planet
transits across the face of its star every few days, causing a very small
(0.02 magnitude) drop in the star's apparent intensity.  They measured the
intensity of the star during one of these planet transits, and sure enough,
they could actually observe the intensity variation as the planet blocked
some of the star's light from our view.  Pretty good for off-the-shelf
amateur equipment!

All this is giving me an itch to point one of my Pentaxen skyward, but I'm
afraid all I'll get this week will be clouds.  Aarrrgh!!  At least they're
18% gray  :-)

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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RE: FS: Sigma 1.4x AF teleconverter

2002-01-10 Thread Kent Gittings

If he doesn't I have one available also.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Brendan
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 12:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: FS: Sigma 1.4x AF teleconverter


I know you've prob got tons of requests, is it still
available ?

--- Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Offering to the list before it goes on eBay.
 This is the standard Sigma 1.4x teleconverter (not
 the EX series). It's
 in EX+ condition with front and rear lens caps. It's
 autofocus but of course
 will work with manual focus cameras  lenses as
 well.
 
 $35.00 + shipping ($2.00 for shipping in the U.S.
 should cover it)
 
 
 -- 
 Mark Roberts
 www.robertstech.com
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RE: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-07 Thread Kent Gittings

I have a 2nd gen. Tamron 28-200 in mint condition I'll sell him for $200
plus shipping  that includes the Tamron close-up lens and a filter or a
Tamron 28-105 in the same condition for $125. I don't use my Pentax AF gear
anymore and I'd like to give them good homes before I decide to stick them
on eBay.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 7:45 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses


We've had a Tamron 28-300 for two years.  Works perfectly, never a problem
and produces very nice results.

Probably just the luck of the draw.

He doesn't go out and take pictures of electrical storms does he? :-)

I have a Pentax 28-80 AF, like brand new, that I'm trying to sell for $45.
I've never critiqued it as it was only used for about two rolls of film
before buying the longer zoom.  It's a lens.

Tom C.

- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses


 A friend of mine, heeding advice from this list, purchased a ZX-7 a
 little more than a year ago, and grabbed a Tamron zoom (28~200 maybe -
 don't recall right now) to use primarily for family snaps and a trip
 that he and his wife took last year.

 The lens is toast.  It doesn't work and he's been told that the
 electronics are fried, and that it'll cost $220.00 to repair.  Now,
 frankly, I don't give a rat's ass why the lens failed, or whether or not
 it can be repaired, or if the price is reasonable, or even if the lens
 doesn't have electronics.  It just frosts me that the enjoyment of his
 recent trip to Mexico was lessened by the lens breaking in some
 fashion.  He, and his wife, are very disappointed.  Sheesh!  all he
 wanted was a simple lens for a simple camera.

 Yeah, I know that things break, but the truth is, a lens should last
 longer than a year, and not cost a week's pay to repair.

 Good.  Now that that's off my chest, what's a good replacement lens?
 Build quality is important, optical quality commensurate with family
 snaps and occasional 8x10, color print use.  Cole's like me - he likes
 to keep things a long time.  You should see his old Spotmatic and Super
 Tak 50/1.4 - sharp, clean, and working perfectly.

 So, what does the list suggest for a quality consumer lens?
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)

2002-01-07 Thread Kent Gittings

That's called spherical aberration or coma I think. Unless the aperture
diaphragm is not circular at whatever F-stop you chose.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ed Mathews
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 5:26 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)


Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water.  A week
or so ago there was some limited g discussion about the Nikon 105,
it's bokeh, and the 77 bokeh.  I mentioned that the 77 yields nice
bokeh, with some football (American football) shaped highlights.  Nobody
commented about that, and probably nobody understood what I meant.  So I
thought I'd take a picture of my Christmas tree lights out of focus to
show you.

This is background bokeh, with the brightest lights about 7 feet away,
and the lens focused to about 3 feet.  In this shot, the lens is at
F2.8.  In other shots I took at smaller apertures, the highlights of
course get smaller, and the football shapes start to get more round.

It appears to me that the shape becomes more oblong closer to the edge,
and that they kind of look like they circle around the center axis.
Tell me what you think.

http://lightandsilver.com/Temp/77.htm

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com
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RE: CZJ Sonnar 300/4: three varieties? switchable mount?

2002-01-07 Thread Kent Gittings

I'm almost sure the 95mm is the filter ring on the removable hood not the
lens barrel.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul F. Stregevsky
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 7:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: CZJ Sonnar 300/4: three varieties? switchable mount?


I've been thinking about getting a Carl Zeiss Jena 300/4 Sonnar in M42
mount. I've seen its filter size described as 77mm, 86mm, and 95mm:

The 77mm version focuses to 3 m, weighs 1,950 g, and has 5 elements in 3
groups. It was made from the 1960s through 1980s; multicoating began in the
mid 1970s.

The 86mm version is the Carl Zeiss Jena Auto S Auto MC Electric (or
something like that). It focuses to 4 m, weighs 1,650 g, and has 6 elements
in 5 groups. It is praised on Nathan Dayton's site,
http://www.commiecameras.com, on this page:
http://www.commiecameras.com/ddr/p6/lenses/index.htm

The 95mm version is a Carl Zeiss Jena that I know nothing about. I just
know that it's mentioned as 95mm on one of the four current EBay listings:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316507457 (Pentacon
6 mount)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315207641 (Praktica
bayonet mount--however you spell it)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315956584 (Pentacon
6 mount; mentions the 95mm filter)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315956584 (Exakta
mount)

Should I consider only the 86mm version--definitely autoaperture, so
modern? Can it definitely be fitted with (or found with) an M42 mount?

And what can anyone tell me about the 95mm version?

Then there is the issue of the mounts. I know that if I want it to be M42,
it must be a Praktica mount. But weren't those old mounts replaceable?
Wrote one user: Most of these [old CZJs] have a coarse screw-thread into
which the actual camera adaptor screws, a remnant of its design as a lens
for use on the old Contax RF Flektoskop and Flektometer reflex housings.  A
lens like this can be readily adapted by the fabrication of a new adaptor.

The last thing I want is to buy a Pentacon to M42 adaptor, then try to fit
onto it an M42-to-K adaptor. But can't I essentially unscrew the Pentacon
or Exacta mount and screw in a CZJ M42 mount (maybe $60?), giving me
essentially a made-for-M42 lens?


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
13 Selby Court
Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
H (301) 349-5243
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RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)

2002-01-07 Thread Kent Gittings

The faster the optical system (or F-stop) the more pronounced the coma can
be.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bruce Dayton
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 6:40 PM
To: Ed Mathews
Subject: Re: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)


Ed,

It's certainly very visible.  This is an area where the FA*85 beats
the 77 in my opinion.  It produces nice, round highlights.  I have
thought long and hard about getting the 77 and seeing this makes me
want to just keep and use my FA*85 (already paid for).  I would be
curious to know if this is consistent from sample to sample or is
there some variance.  Any other 77 owners noticed the highlights to be
like Ed's sample here?


Bruce Dayton



Saturday, January 05, 2002, 2:26:12 PM, you wrote:

EM Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water.  A week
EM or so ago there was some limited g discussion about the Nikon 105,
EM it's bokeh, and the 77 bokeh.  I mentioned that the 77 yields nice
EM bokeh, with some football (American football) shaped highlights.  Nobody
EM commented about that, and probably nobody understood what I meant.  So I
EM thought I'd take a picture of my Christmas tree lights out of focus to
EM show you.

EM This is background bokeh, with the brightest lights about 7 feet away,
EM and the lens focused to about 3 feet.  In this shot, the lens is at
EM F2.8.  In other shots I took at smaller apertures, the highlights of
EM course get smaller, and the football shapes start to get more round.

EM It appears to me that the shape becomes more oblong closer to the edge,
EM and that they kind of look like they circle around the center axis.
EM Tell me what you think.

EM http://lightandsilver.com/Temp/77.htm

EM Thanks,
EM Ed
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RE: CZJ Sonnar 300/4: three varieties? switchable mount?

2002-01-07 Thread Kent Gittings

I wouldn't exactly call the East German CZJ as world class. While a good
value it is not as good as the West German Zeiss or Schneider lenses. Much
better than Pentacon's own Meyer Gorlitz 300/4 lens though. The lens is
designed for medium format so with the M42 adapter on it its light path is
slightly compromised in the smaller format.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul F. Stregevsky
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 11:20 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: CZJ Sonnar 300/4: three varieties? switchable mount?


I suppose I should put the SMC 300/4 on my short list; I actually received
it last year but returned it to the UK because I had ordered the 300/M. Now
I want to consider only lenses with a tripod collar, which would exclude
the SMC 300/4, I believe, but would include its M42 precursor, the Tak
300/4.

But if I'm gonna give up K mount autoaperture, it had better be for a
world-class lens. The CZJ auto-Sonnar 300.4 is world class. The Tak? I
dunno; I fear I'd always think, I should have held out for a 300/4.5F.

Come to think of it, with the cost of larger filters and hoods, maybe I
should just get a 1.4XL-A teleconverter and use it with my 400/5.6 PKA and
200/2.5 SMC. How much brightness does a 1.4 TC cost you: half a stop?

Paul Franklin Stregevsky
13 Selby Court
Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
H (301) 349-5243
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RE: choosing M42 body - finder brightness

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

Well since you have some CZJ lenses how about a Yashica 35 Electro-X? Decent
metering, plus a genuine MLU lever that you can switch on and off at will? I
got one as part of a telephoto/telescope purchase. I already had 2 KX bodies
with MLU I was using for astro cameras. So I kept this one to use also.
However it's a pain to have to switch the T-mount to M42 if I want to use
all my camera preloaded. I would judge the camera in either Mint- or EX+
condition. Comes with a Yashinon 5xmm/1.9 lens (can't remember if it is a 50
or 55 lens).
Kent Gittings


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: choosing M42 body - finder brightness


Hi,
   I ask the help of fellow screwy lovers (ehm), am in need of some
   screwy body... VBEG

   I am interested in finding an M42 body for some of my screwmount CZJ
   lenses**1), which I love to use but don't because I dislike fiddling with
   adapters from K to 42.

   What I *need* is bright, high-magnification viewfinder with *bright*
   focusing screen! At *least* as bright as my Pentax K2DMD, preferably
   BETTER!**2)

   What is the best M42 camera based on that criterion? I will ask about
   other criteria later on.

   (considering either Spotmatic, Asahi SV, another pre-spotmatic
   body, or a 3rd party M42 body like from Cosina or Vivitar)

   Basic needs for the body: purely mechanical, no batteries (except meter
   if applicable), meter _not needed_, standard M42 autoaperture plate, DOF
   preview, rapid-return mirror, 1/1000 speed or higher is minimum,
   reliability, if ttl meter than it _needs_ to be able to meter
   easily with all M42 lenses **3). MLU would be a nice boon, either
   switchable or via selftimer. Quitness is a plus of course, it
   should be less noisy than a K2DMD _at minimum_. Ability to accept
   motordrive would be a nice boon too.


**1:
(the lenses are 1.8/80 and 2.8/20, Carl Zeiss Jena MC both, just in
   case there is some incompatibility with a body, although I doubt it -
after all
   CZ/Pentacon invented the M42 mount in the first place, although
   it gets credited as 'Pentax screwmount' nowadays- Phew!)

**2:
(compared to e.g. N. FM2n, the K2DMD's screen is almost full one stop
   dimmer, as tested with FM2N + 1.8/50 vs. K2 + 1.4/50, the FM2n was
   slightly better, even with almost 1 full stop dimmer lens), but
   still the K2 is way better than M42 Prakticas wrt screen. And the
   FM2n has almost about same magnification as the K2DMD finder, not
   like the AF cameras sporting low-low magnification but bright
   finders, which still are impossible to focus through manually

**3: that means the Praktica MTLx series or normal Spotmatic mode -
there is a switch separate from shutter release which 1st: stop down
the lens to selected aperture 2nd: activates the meter. NOT like on
the Zenit, where the switch is built-in into shutter release - that
makes releasing the shutter cumbersome and slow, just plain stupid.


Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek

P.S.: Kelvin, I will surely ask this on Club M42, but haven't
subscribed yet (too low on free time :( ). Could you please FW my post
there? Thank you a lot!
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RE: Can you believe this?

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

It's a macaw not a parrot. Big difference. :^)
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stan Halpin
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Can you believe this?


Nice looking parrot!

stan

 From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:00:00 -0500
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Can you believe this?
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315937391
 
 Bill, KG4LOV
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

I understand that Fuji has now stopped production of this film by the way.
However it will be available from current stocks for awhile.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mike wilson
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 5:02 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?


Hi,

Sid Barras wrote:
  I'm wondering what some experienced
 hands on this list might have to say about the benefits of this film,
where it might be at its best,
 its actual pushability (aside from what Fuji claims) and where I might not
want to use it.

This is rapidly becoming my E6 film of choice.  Acceptably
sharp, _very_ flexible and nice colours - not one of the modern
eyeburners which seem to be so popular at present.  Just the
usual reservations about E6 archivability.  It's real speed is
about 600ASA, apparently, and I never use it past 800.  You will
have to make your own experiments in that direction, I think.

The whole roll has to be axposed at the same speed, of course.
Found out the hard way that exposure @100 and development @800
produces a very nice high key effect.  Just a pity that the
subjects weren't suitable.

Seasonal greetings to all,

mike
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RE: Looking to buy a Pentax ZX-5n

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

No I still got it. I was going to put it on eBay next week.
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Marc Schlotthauer
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:09 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Looking to buy a Pentax ZX-5n


Hey Kent -

Did you ever sell that ZX-5n you had for sale?

Marc
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RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

Yeah that's why I'm hoarding the rest of the brick of Astia 120 I have in
th4e fridge. Guess I'll do the same for the 2 35mm rolls of MS 100/1000 I
have also.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rob Brigham
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?


'My lab' was Fuji UK.  I sent them £2 extra for pushing it to 600, and
they sent me a credit note back saying payment was unneccesary!

I didnt realise Astia had gone too!  I have a couple of rolls which I
bought 6 months ago and havent tried yet.  I read it was good for
portraits.  I had better test it soon, and stock up if I like it!

They had better not touch provia, or reala!  This would really upset
me!!

 -Original Message-
 From: Aaron Reynolds [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Subject: Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

 Rob B: You're lucky that your lab wasn't charging you for push
 processing on MS 100/1000.  'Round here, everyone charges.

 Personally, I'm more broken up about the loss of Astia.  I
 shot my last
 ten rolls of Astia 120 in North Carolina over Christmas.
 I'll certainly
 miss that film.

 -Aaron
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RE: Abandoning the K-mount (WAS: Aperture Ring On MZ-S)

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

Both Minolta and Canon eliminated the aperture ring when they went to AF. I
think Nikon has recently eliminated it from some newer lenses.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pål Audun Jensen
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:28 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Abandoning the K-mount (WAS: Aperture Ring On MZ-S)


Lon wrote:


One thing Pentax might be telling us with the MZ-S is that
they have no intention of abandoning the K-mount.  As I understand
it, Minolta or Canon or both have abandoned the aperature ring in
their newest mounts.


There is no reason for Pentax abandoning their mount. Minolta, and
particularly Canon, was forced to do so due to a very small bayonet
diametre with no or few possibilities for electrical contacts and drive
shafts etc.
Removing the aperture ring from the lens is a way to save money.

Pål
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RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

I know that these type of lenses, especially the 500/4.5, were very easy to
convert to another mount. That's why if you stumble on a 500/4.5 in Nikon
mount you can bet that it was probably an Associated Press lens from the
time when they switched to Nikon. Although they probably did some for others
at the time (some NYC company did the switch).
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 1:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]


Kent,

That has to be it. It must be that all of the longer lenses have that
design?

In my original post I was referencing the auction page but the bottom photo
never loaded. So, I looked at it after Shel's post and noticed the bottom
pic (this time the page loaded instanteously). Sure enough, PENTAX SMC.
That's no screw mount lens. Plus it's identical to the lens on Boz's site...

Brendan
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RE: Pentacon 400/4?

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

Although the Enna is suppose to be decent I'd more than likely take the
Pentax if it is the manual focus K, M, or A model.
I'm always on the lookout for big fast screwmount lenses to add to my
collection. One day I'd like to pick up one of the Kilar 600/5.6 lenses. All
the ones I've seen lately were modified for C-mount motion picture work.
I'll think about those lenses you mention in Pentax mount.
I live in Frederick, MD by the way.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Pentacon 400/4?


Kent,

You're right. The lens in question, on German EBay, is a 300/4:

http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315106059

Since I'm also thinking of getting a moderately fast 300, I appreciate the
tip to pass on the Pentacon.

By the way, there's a coated PK-mount Enna 400/4.5 (yes, K mount), mint, for
sale on the Web for something like $450. Since it seems you want one badly.
I didn't want anyone to beat you to it, so write to me for the URL. Igor of
Igorcameras.com has several Enna 400/4.5s, in Exacta and Topcon mounts, for
$395
(http://www.igorcamera.com/Exacta%20%20Topcon.htm). I also know of a
Piesker 400/4.5 or two for sale; one in M42, the other I think in K mount.
Write to me for those URLs, too. Any that you're not interested in, I'll
share them with the list
PS: If you had to choose between the Enna 400/4.5K at $450 and the Pentax
400/5.6 PKA at $500, which would you choose?

Paul Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Kent Giddings wrote:
Are you sure it is 400/4 and not 400/4.5? Most Pentacon lenses were made by
only a couple of makers and I can't find any listing for a 400/4. There were
2 400/4.5 lenses that I know of. One by Piesker and one by Enna. I got
outbid on one of the former a short time ago and the Enna is very rare.
Pentacon only had 2 telephotos with their own name inscribed on them, and
both were built by Meyer Gorlitz (because part of Pentacon later) and were
the same as the M-G Orestegor lenses. One was a 300/4 and the other a
500/5.6. Neither is as good as the Aus Jena 300/4 Sonnar and the 500/5.6 is
not considered as good as the current Ukrainian 500/5.6 MC APO-Arsat.
Most of these were available in 35mm mounts also.
Kent Gittings





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RE: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

You should consider the formula based not on photos taken but by the number
of good photos taken. If a cheaper lens gives you less useable shots that
needs to taken into account.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rob Studdert
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?


On 2 Jan 2002 at 8:11, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:

 By conventional thinking, a lens that is 80 percent as good as another at
 50 percent of the price is a better value. I propose an alternative
 definition of value: cost per photograph taken. By this definition, the
 cheapest lens nearly always must win.

Paul,

Your equation doesn't work for me. Some of us are just prepared to sacrifice
a
bit more and buy the best available in order to provide the optimum
potential
(in the given format). I never want to be wishing I'd shot that shot with
a
better lens.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

If I'm not mistaken I think the rear filter mount resided under this part
and that is why it comes off. It's not really designed as an interchangeable
mount as Pentax only offered an upgrade to the K-mount for the earlier
screwmount lens owners. You couldn't buy the screwmount adapter separately.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Joseph Tainter
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 6:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]


This seems to match some other posts. I keep telling myself I don't
need it and don't have the money right now. But I've wanted one of
these since I was a kid.

Joe

 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 18:03:02 -0500
From: Donna McArthur [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Joe,
I'll see if I can make this a little more clear. If you look at the
second picture, which shows the back end of the tube, work your way up
from the protective cap until you come to a knurled ring.  It has two
screws on either side of it.  This is where the mounting adapter
separates from the tube.  The adapter has a four-eared bayonette type
mount that fits into the knurled ring.  This ring is then turned like a
breech mount to secure the adapter tightly to the tube (the adapter
mounts very similar to a Canon FD mount lens).  Pentax designed this
lens
in this manner and provided adapters for either screw mount or k mount.
Hope this helps.

Best regards,

Donna



On Wed, 02 Jan 2002 09:38:01 -0700 Joseph Tainter
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 Thank you, Donna. This is a little confusing. I thought this should
 be a
 k-mount lens. Would it be a lot of trouble to take and send me a
 photo
 of the camera end, close up?

 Joe

 Donna McArthur wrote:
 
  Hi Joe,
  No, this lens is not a screw mount by design.  The end tube has
 threads,
  which accept adapters which can be either screw mount or k mount,
 or
  others.  The end of the threaded tube, is approx. 2 1/2 in
 diameter.  We
  just happen to have the k mount adapter for this unit.  It is
 truly an
  impressive   piece of equipment.
  Thanks for your interest,
  Donna
 
  On Tue, 01 Jan 2002 15:01:23 PST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
   Hi. Can I clarify that this is a screw-mount lens with a
 k-mount
   adapter?
  
   Thanks,
  
   Joe
   
  
  
   Question from:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Title of item:   PENTAX SMC 1000mm F8 TELEPHOTO LENS
   AWESOME!!
   Seller:  stardust06242
   Starts:  Dec-31-01 14:41:11 PST
   Ends:Jan-07-02 14:41:11 PST
   Price:   Currently $455.00
   To view the item, go to:
  
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316793311
  
  
  
   Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading
 Community
   at http://www.ebay.com
  
  
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  Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
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RE: Forwarded from the Olympus list

2002-01-03 Thread Kent Gittings

Yeah we discussed this on the Minolta list when it came out. Everybody hoped
this means they are moving to devote more resources to the digital 35mm
effort but who knows.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bill Owens
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:55 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Forwarded from the Olympus list


 Just saw this on dpreview.com   Interesting. from Dec. 26th

 Minolta yesterday announced that it will halt production and development
of
 APS cameras in favour of attacking the ever expanding digital camera
market.
 This comes as no surprise to dpreview as we have observed the dramatic
shift
 in market share (and production) between 35 mm, APS and digital over the
 last two years. Investors welcomed the news, sending shares in Minolta up
 8.39 percent to 155 yen on Wednesday morning. The Nikkei average dipped
0.1
 percent.


Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

Actually the guys I hate the worst are the ones who blab on the list about
some juicy item they found listed. Especially if I'm sitting on that item
trying to get it low. :^)
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Juan J. Buhler
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:22 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale


Kent Gittings writes:

 I hate to say it but I think we should use the same rules for posting
things
 for sale here that we've gone to on the Minolta users list. That is the
only
 acceptable posting of a for sale item is BEFORE you list it on some
auction
 site. If you are going to be a member of a group then there is no reason
for
 you to be allowed to be a member of that group if you are not going to
give
 the group members first crack at something.

Those posts don't bother me too much, although we might probably keep that
kind of things for on-sale Fridays.

The couple of times I've posted an ebay item that I was selling here, I
promised a small discount on the final price to list members. Consider doing
that if you're going to tell us about your auctions...

Of course, we all know that real PDMLers only buy on ebay when it is a
bargain, like a K24/3.5 for $50 or a black MX with bad foam for $67. So
since
PDMLers like to buy low and sell high, it's unlikely that they'll sell to
each other anyway :-)

j



=
--
Juan J. Buhler
http://www.jbuhler.com
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

In that case you have a point but to be specific the guy should offer it to
us at a firm price. If you factor in the cost of the eBay listing and other
incidentals it could be sold to us for a little less and the seller could
still get everything he might get from an auction listing. If we can't
afford it then whatever he does is fine.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: My eBay Pentax garage sale


Two weeks ago I posted a Yashica rangefinder on CameraQuest's rangefinder
discussion list. I had paid $263 on EBay; I tried to sell it to fellow list
members for $185. When I had no takers after 1 week, I posted a classified
on a more widely read site for $225 with whose readers I felt no connection.
It sold yesterday and I shipped it today. But for a $40 shortfall I would
have gladly let one of my RF list buddies have it.

But what is someone to do who has, say, a 135/1.8 PKA*, two of which fetched
$1800 and $1,810 in mid 2001? I don't think any of us at PDML could come up
with that kind of money without risking divorce. Should the seller ask
$1,200 and cheat himself of $600? Or should he say, If anyone on the list
wants it, it's yours for $1,800?

I know that Pal grappled with this in recent months, but I can't recall how
it turned out.

Paul Stregevsky


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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RE: Showpiece Pentax LX w/FA-1 Finder--Gooeyduck!

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

Me too. I got an excellent deal on a mint condition KX MD from Marv.
Some people get ticked off just because he lives out in the boondocks, is
not that mobile, and as a result doesn't respond that fast.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Gary L. Murphy
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 3:09 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Showpiece Pentax LX w/FA-1 Finder--Gooeyduck!


On Mon, 31 Dec 2001 14:36:41 -0500, Fred wrote:

There are some here who already know better than to buy from Mr.
Gooeyduck (although your mileage may vary).

As you say your milage may vary...

I've had nothing but excellent transactions from Marv. He has always been
straightforward and honest with
me and I have yet to have a single problem with him. I both purchased and
sold camera gear from/to him.

We are fortunate that his conceit causes him to put his name right
into the subject of the listing, making his listings easy to spot
(and to skip).

Tell me Fred, what exactly has he done to you to warrant this?






Later,
Gary
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RE: The brute force school of photography

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

Actually anybody who can carve the wishbone out of a turkey with an electric
knife without messing up the bird is a surgeon in my book. :^)
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 4:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: The brute force school of photography


Anyone who uses salt is a chemist.
Anyone who uses a hammer is a carpenter.
Anyone with a lawn is a gardener.
Anyone who cooks is a gourmet.
Anyone who writes is a writer.
Anyone who read this far must be really bored the day before New Years.

Tom C.

Axually Bill, itsh like shaying anyboty with a lischense to praktis
medishine is a phisiician.



- Original Message -
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: The brute force school of photography


 - Original Message -
 From: Len Paris
 Subject: Re: The brute force school of photography


  Now this reminds me of a while back on the list when I said
 that
  a photographer had to know something about photography and
  his/her equipment to be able to claim to be a photographer.
 At
  that time, it was determined by a bunch of people that a
  photographer is a person that takes pictures.  Everyone that
  takes pictures is a photographer.
 
  Where are all of those people now?  Or was that just the
  practice of Len bashing

 Len, when you get bashed by people who obviously don't have a
 sniff, (if someone said the above, they fit the description),
 you don't need defending.
 Saying anyone who takes pictures is a photographer is akin to
 saying anyone who carves a Christmas turkey is a surgeon.
 William Robb
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

I've had success selling to the list about 1/3-1/2 the time. And it saved me
the hassle of using eBay. But if you want to just sell it on an auction site
without telling us that's fine.
Maybe just indicating you are selling something and giving us your eBay ID
so we can see what you are listing would be enough.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rob Studdert
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:08 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale


On 31 Dec 2001 at 13:28, Kent Gittings wrote:

 No he's just hoping some poor schlep on the list will help bid his item
up. If
 he was concerned about his friends on the list he would offer them here
first.
 At least offering them before he puts them at auction. That's what I do.
 Reputable people on this list do that. I just don't put him in that
category
 now. Kent Gittings

From my observations the difference between selling on a community list and
eBay is that it seems easier for the buyer to make a decision and more
likely
that they will stick with it when the items are presented for auction on
eBay.

So I won't be offering items for sale direct to the list any longer, I have
found through several attempts that it just does'nt work smoothly for
out-of-
towners.

I hope that this doesn't also make me one of the categorized when you find
my
stuff on eBay with out having listed it here for a month at a discount and
without a sale?

Cheers,
Rob Studdert (eBay ID: distudio)

PO Box 701
HURSTVILLE BC NSW 1481
AUSTRALIA

Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Please check my current eBay auctions:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/ebay/
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

If he offered them here first we wouldn't be missing them either and it
would just be a transaction between friends. As it is it is sort of a case
where he is either using the knowledgeable PDML members to drive the price
up for non-PDML auction buyers or using the non-members to drive the price
up to us his supposed friends.
Here is an extreme but true example. The current Sports Car Club of America
has about 50K members. In the late 1940's when it was started as a club to
promote the ownership and sport of competing with real sports cars they had
a rule that seems a little snobby today. To wit the membership rule was that
if you owned a sports car and decided to sell it, if you didn't offer it to
the club members first it was grounds to have your membership revoked. And
they actually did things like that.
I seem to remember that a few years ago we adopted some rule where you had
to put the words for sale in the subject line so that if people wanted to
filter those messages out they could. Did we drop that rule or something?
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frits J. Wüthrich
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 6:41 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale


I fail to see what the problem is to promote ones auctions on PDML. At least
it gives the PDML members awareness of the items that otherwise might have
been missed.

Frits Wüthrich


frank theriault wrote:
 I really don't see what the big deal (no pun intended) is.  I
 tend to agree with
 the spirit of your post, Kent, but if someone wants to give is a
 list of their
 current eBay auctions, I would guess that Fridays is as good a
 day as any.  If
 there's anything of interest, I may look at the auction, but
 probably won't bid,
 since there aren't very many real bargains on eBay these days anyway.

 I have to admit that I would hold someone who offers items to
 list members only
 at a reasonable price in higher regard than someone who simply
 lumps us all in
 with eBayers at large - you know Pentaxian community and all -
 but I certainly
 don't think of such actions as sanctionable, and certainly not
 worth banishment.

 With up to 200 and sometimes more postings per day, I can easily
 delete a few on
 Fridays that don't pique my interest for whatever reason.

 My two cents worth...

 regards, and Happy New Years to all,
 frank

 Kent Gittings wrote:

  I hate to say it but I think we should use the same rules for
 posting things
  for sale here that we've gone to on the Minolta users list.
 That is the only
  acceptable posting of a for sale item is BEFORE you list it on
 some auction
  site. If you are going to be a member of a group then there is
 no reason for
  you to be allowed to be a member of that group if you are not
 going to give
  the group members first crack at something. This is a case of
 schilling your
  own items to your friends as far as I'm concerned. Sort of like the case
  where you and your next door neighbor both collect Steuben glass and he
  comes over and says listen I just put a couple of pieces from
 my collection
  I know that you liked down at Fred's Auction house. So why
 don't you come
  down and bid on them if you are interested.
  I thought we forbade this kind of thing after discussing it
 last year or so.
  This is by far the most cluttered list I belong to. Yes I sell things on
  eBay also. However I always post any Pentax items before I list
 them in case
  anybody wants them. On the Minolta list you get one warning and
 then you get
  permanently kicked off. I don't mind somebody finding a listing for some
  rare piece of Pentax gear that THEY AREN'T SELLING THEMSELVES! Otherwise
  they are just conning us into bidding their items up as far as I am
  concerned.
  Kent Gittings
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RE: really ot

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

MS Excel or Lotus 123 usually.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of HARRY BAUGHMAN
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 6:43 PM
To: pentax
Subject: realy ot


since every one on the list has a computer i would like to ask a question.
what is a good program to create a column and line type chart?
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RE: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

2002-01-02 Thread Kent Gittings

That's the point it is not a screw mount version or it would say Takumar on
it. There is no variance on this point.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Blakely
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 12:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]


Often this means the item is a T mount. I have two of these. Strictly
speaking, it is a screw mount to which various adapters, K mount included,
can be attached. No provision is made for any control of any kind, i.e. no
diaphragm control. This mount is somewhat common on telescopes designed to
also be used on cameras.

However, this is not the case here. The lens is Pentax screw mount and she
has a K mount adapter for it.

Regards,
Bob...

From: Joseph Tainter [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 I queried the seller of the 1000 mm. SMC lens on ebay. Does anyone
 understand her answer? The lens mount is threaded but it is not screw
 mount?

 From: Donna McArthur [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Hi Joe,
 No, this lens is not a screw mount by design.  The end tube has threads,
 which accept adapters which can be either screw mount or k mount, or
 others.  The end of the threaded tube, is approx. 2 1/2 in diameter.
 We
 just happen to have the k mount adapter for this unit.  It is truly an
 impressive   piece of equipment.
 Thanks for your interest,
 Donna

 On Tue, 01 Jan 2002 15:01:23 PST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  Hi. Can I clarify that this is a screw-mount lens with a k-mount
  adapter?
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RE: 500/5.6

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

Well its minimum is longer then my Tamron 300/2.8. But it will still go
short enough to reach out to my front bird feeder just barely. And when on
the Super A MD it works good changing the shutter speed as I turn the
aperture ring (no click stops).
We start filing the feeders this week so I'll shoot some with it and find
out how it does.
McBroom's lists the lens as costing $950 new and worth from $240-480 in EX
condition used.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John Mustarde
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 6:55 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 500/5.6


On Fri, 28 Dec 2001 14:11:44 -0500, you wrote:

Turns out to be an American made Century Tele-Athenar II 500/5.6. Wow!

Congratulations on an unusual find. The Century optics, from all I've
read, are second to none. I hope it shoots as good as I think it will.

What's the minimum focus distance? Older tele lenses usually need
tubes to get very close, but since this was made for movies maybe it
is different.


--
John Mustarde
www.photolin.com
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RE: Square Format

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

Nice thing about a square format is you don't have to worry about mounting
the camera horizontal or vertical because you wish you had a larger format.
You just shoot and crop a little. A shot using a 6x6 format means you don't
have to go through the potential contortions you might need shooting a
6x4.5.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 11:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Square Format


Paul Stenquist asked:
 Everyone think real hard. Out of yur best 100 all-time photographs, how
 many have  you cropped to a square? What proportion of paintings in the
 Met are square? Enough said.

#include crop-vs-full-frame-thread

My understanding of square format shooting (caveat:  I've not shot
square) is that you expect to crop those square frames to some
other shape.  For someone willing to crop, square makes sense.
(That being said, I'd prefer not to go square anyhow, but it's
a matter of irrational personal preference, not an inherent
problem with the format.  Then again, I _do_ try to frame things
just so in the viewfinder ... _occasionally_ I'll shoot wider
with the intent to crop later; more often when I crop it's
because I've changed my mind about how the shot should have
been framed or someone else has convinced me.)

The bit about not having to turn the camera for vertical format
shots makes a lot of sense to me.

-- Glenn
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RE: Found an MZ-S BG-10 IR Remote Substitute

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

Then that probably means you can use one of those universal programmable
remotes also by either experimenting or inputting the Sony code. Gee I
wonder if that will work with Minolta's IR also.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of gabriel bovino
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 12:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Found an MZ-S BG-10 IR Remote Substitute


Hey everyone,
If you own an MZ-S with the BG-10 grip but didn't want to spend the money to
buy the IR Remote

Then grab one of your remote controls for your television and keep hitting
all
the buttons until one of them fires the shutter on your camera.  From my
experiment (I just wanted to say that because it sounds cool), I discovered
that the Sony Remote Controllers fire the shutter on the MZ-S with the BG-10
Grip attached.  The following buttons will fire the shutter:

Sony TV Remote (RM0Y168 - basic remote that comes with Sony Televisions
nowadays)
1) System Off Button
2) Set Remote to VTR/DVD and hold down any of the directional arrow buttons
at
the bottom in the circular button scheme.

Sony DVD Remote (RMT-D128A - may work with other Sony DVD Remotes)
1) Any of the directional arrow buttons at the bottom in the circular button
scheme.

Hey... I know that your probably not going to want to lug around a TV remote
when your taking pictures.  But, it offers a great solution for those who
want
to take pictures in the comfort of their homes while watching TV!
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RE: OT: Wimberley Head on Ebay

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

It's the preferred head by a sizeable number of nature and sports shooters
using any brand of 600/4 or larger lens.
They also make a smaller version called a Sidekick which is designed to fit
into the QR plate holder of an Arca type ballhead when the plate is dropped
into the 90 degree slot. then the QR plate it put on the plate holder of the
Sidekick. It is used mainly for lenses up to about 500/4.5 or so. And is
cheaper if you already have a compatible ballhead.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Jim Apilado
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 10:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Wimberley Head on Ebay


I've got the 500mm SMC Takumar.  Never heard of this Wimberley Gimble head
until I saw this post.  I'll have to look into it.

Jim A.

 From: John Mustarde [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 18:42:44 -0600
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: OT: Wimberley Head on Ebay

 Very unusual to see one of these on Ebay. Works great with that 600/4
 you've been meaning to get.

 Wimberley Gimble Long Lens Tripod Head:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1315808180

 --
 John Mustarde
 www.photolin.com
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RE: The brute force school of photography

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

So you are saying that lots of brains and experience dumbs us out when we
get a motordrive? Get real. Take a look at all the great football pictures
from the 60's. Most game shots were done with early Pentax or Nikon
motordrive cameras. You see anything close up from the 50's and 60's and you
can bet in most cases it was staged not game film.
It actually takes as much or more skill to do action photography as a real
photographer as opposed to a hack shooter. Remember you get to see what you
are going to shoot very clearly right in front of you. Because it is not
shot in the moment when time is really critical. We not only have to put
ourselves in the right place we have to visualize in our heads the shot or
potential shot we want to get. Because it happens too fast in most cases to
have the luxury of setting it up perfectly. Heck anybody can take a decent
shot when the subject is right in front of them if they remember some basic
rules. Try composing a potential shot in your head not knowing whether it
will happen or not. Knowing that the moment is so fleeting that your brain
can't compose the shot fast enough or it will be gone. So each time frame of
the moment can be divided into an almost infinite number of potential shots.
But if you shoot by hand you can only get one of those moments per second
and it may not be exactly the shot you imagined. At 3 FPS you still miss
lots of potential moments happening between the shots. At 10 FPS you miss
even less of them.
They called it Life magazine for a reason. Photographs of things in motion
are pictures of life. Photographs of things staged or posed are just
pictures of things, be they living beings or inanimate objects.
There is a reason why magazine photographers use motordrives in a model
shoot. They let the model move just giving pointers. They generally shoot as
fast as they can. Because the movement of features, hair, and clothing are
what gives the shots the illusion of life. And to do that they have to
continually shoot.
Portraits on the other hand are not pictures of life. If done well they are
pictures of how life has effected the subject. And that is art also. Just
not my kind of art.
If Ansel Adams shot a picture of a gorgeous Western landscape I'd consider
the picture full of the majesty of creation, but not of life. On the
otherhand the same landscape with a thundering herd of wild horses moving
across it I would consider a picture of life. And if I have to use a
motordrive camera instead of an 8x10 plate camera to get my shot
successfully then what I do is no less photographic art that what he did (or
my brother does now).
I've had a 35mm camera in my hands continually for almost 40 years. I'm the
son of a late superb amateur travel photographer (and WWII photographer when
he wasn't shooting). And the brother of a full time working pro who has
published 2 books of his own and teaches his art. So I have some idea what
constitutes good photo art. You should tag along sometime when we walk
through somebody else's show critiquing their photos. And I'm not perfect.
My brother still thinks I need more people in my selections.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 11:54 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: The brute force school of photography


There are those who strive to get ~an~ image, and those that seek to get
~the~ image.

Bill Owens wrote:

 Yep, Wheatfield (or is it Snowfield this time of year) is absolutely
 correct.  IMNSHO, those that rely on motor drives are photographic
 technicians.  Those that rely on their brain and experience are
 photographers.

--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

No you can view them all you want.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Robert Soames Wetmore
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 12:28 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale


On the Minolta list you get one warning and then you get
permanently kicked off.  [Kent Gittings]

Sounds like a friendly place!  Is that the same list that doesn't let you 
view the archives unless you're a member, or another one?

RSW

_
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

No he's just hoping some poor schlep on the list will help bid his item up.
If he was concerned about his friends on the list he would offer them here
first. At least offering them before he puts them at auction. That's what I
do. Reputable people on this list do that. I just don't put him in that
category now.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 12:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale


Kent,

I don't understand why you consider it shilling when one publicizes that he
has posted an item at auction. It's shilling only if he enlists someone to
bid up the price with no intention of being the final buyer. That's not the
typical PDML poster's intention at all; he just wants to give his fellow
list members a fair crack at owning the item without selling himself short.

Paul Stregevsky


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
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RE: What Do You Think About Nature Photographer Magazine?

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

That's what I found also if I remember. I like Outdoor Photographer better.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 12:41 PM
To: Pentax Discuss
Subject: What Do You Think About Nature Photographer Magazine?


I have enjoyed Nature Photographer Magazine in the past.  I was looking
online for submission guidelines.

Apparently, one is required to be a subscriber to the magazine and have a
Level 3 subscription in order to be a contributor of articles or photos.
Level 3 memberships cost 78USD a year and the magazine is only published
quarterly!

http://www.naturephotographermag.com/subscriptions.htm

Does this sound a little strange to you... that a magazine is only
interested in submissions from paying contributors?   Does that seem
backwards?  Not what I expected AT ALL.

Tom C.
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RE: The brute force school of photography

2001-12-31 Thread Kent Gittings

The motordrive outside the parameters I mention is just an autowinder.
Admittedly a fast one but an autowinder none the less. Unless I'm at an
event or I stumble on a some story I think the newspaper will want photos of
my motordrives stay in the single frame mod. I still like to compose shots
when I have the time. I personally don't know anybody who keeps their camera
on continuous fire all the tire.
If there are such people I agree they aren't likely to be photographers.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 1:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: The brute force school of photography


No - I am saying that some people strive just to capture something while
others strive to capture something special or unique.  I said nothing
about a motor drive, but alluded to the idea that some people engage the
motor without engaging their brain.

Kent Gittings wrote:

 So you are saying that lots of brains and experience dumbs us out when we
 get a motordrive? Get real.
--
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: Speaking of films transport speed, was Re: I love the PZ-1p

2001-12-28 Thread Kent Gittings

Pentax is sort of like Minolta in that respect. Only Canon and Nikon fight
for the rarified area of 7+ FPS because they have to compete against each
other. Minolta's entire XXXsi line only did 3 FPS max and the high end
9000/9xi/9 top out in the 4-5.5 FPS range. Besides sports I find one other
area where a faster motordrive is useful. That is in bracketing where being
able to get the 3-5 shots off faster and closer together means that the
subject will have a better chance of being the same for all the shots.
Other than that the fastest motordrive just becomes a quick autowinder.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pål Jensen
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 3:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Speaking of films transport speed, was Re: I love the PZ-1p


Bill wrote:


 What happened to make film transport speed so important?  Didn't sports
 photogs learn how to use their equipment and get great shots in the days
 before high speed motordrives?  When I was shooting for our college
yearbook
 back in 1962-63, I used a rangefinder 35 and a Speed Graphic, and with a
 little practice was able to anticipate when to press the shutter.  To me
 this makes much more sense than burning 10 or 12 rolls of film per game
and
 hoping the camera had enough intelligence to anticipate the exact moment
for
 the shot.


I have a hard time understanding why Pentax choose only 2,5fps rate of the
MZ-S. Probably a spasm of common sense; after all very few shoot with 5fps
and in tune with a no-nonsense approach they rather put priorities of having
a precise and durable film transport.
They strongly misjudged the psychlogical effect though. I believe the slow
film transport is the main reason that people insist that the MZ-S is under
specified. It is like a camera with 2,5FPS must be cheap. Its apparently
hard to see through those superficial specifications.
Some seem to forget the fact that only a fraction of the LX and F3 sold,
being professional cameras and all, ever enjoyed a motor drive. So its no
wonder that Pentax, who never catered to the sports photographers anyway,
choose not to emphasise this feature.

Pål
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RE: PZ-1p review

2001-12-28 Thread Kent Gittings

Possibly. Minolta generally releases limited production versions of their
cameras not for sales but for promotions sort of like the LX2000. They only
made 1000 of the Maxxum 9ti. We heard on the grapevine (somebody found some
kind of new digital product AVI file on a Minolta server somewhere) that
Minolta is announcing some new digital camera in the first week of January.
Whether it is the rumored digital 7 or 9 body is pure speculation. I keep
waiting to see whether Minolta or Pentax will be the first between them out
with a 4+ MP 35mm type digital body. I'll only switch back to Canon most
likely if nothing comes out in the next year or so. Eventually I'll will
have to add a high end digital body to my equipment (while I practice with
the Minolta RD-175 I picked up used).
As it is right now I'm too busy to do much shooting.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pål Jensen
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 3:12 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: PZ-1p review


Kent wrote:

 Actually failure in the marketplace is relative. Minolta can sell every
 Maxxum 7 they can build. They just can't meet demand and they are also
still
 on the losing side of the dollar equation when you factor in RD and
 marketing costs.


Not according to the Finacial times. I believe (if my memory serves me
right) that projected sales of the Dynaxx7 was 40 - 50 000/units a month
something that make the real production of 8000  units downright pathetic.
Volume is probably lower by now. Its clear to me that Minolta tried to
repeat the success of the original 7 of 1985, that sold 2 million in couple
of years, but failed in these Nikon vs. Canon times.
I also doubt that the Dynaxx7 cannot meet demand. They have just released a
Limited version a sure sign that they want to increase sales.


Pål
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RE: 50/1.2 Variations

2001-12-28 Thread Kent Gittings

Tamron calls that stuff optical acrylic. However I've never seen a single
example of a real Pentax lens (excluding rebadges) that had anything but
optical glass, quartz, or fluorite elements.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Len Paris
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 11:21 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 50/1.2 Variations


Do you think it may have plasic lens elements in it?

Len
---


 I noticed on Boz's site that the A50/1.2 weighs less than the
K50/1.2.
 I recently received both models of this lens, and after
weighing them on
 an accurate and calibrated scale, it was clear that the A lens
weighed
 less by (if I recall) 1.6 ounces.  That's a big difference for
what
 otherwise are identical lenses.

 I'm curious to know where the weight went.  My initial guess
is that the
 A lens contains more plastic.

 Comments?
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
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RE: Med Format Quandry

2001-12-28 Thread Kent Gittings

Well mine had only the frame spacing problem when I got it. And it varied
depending on the spool position. But nowhere was it more than a 4mm overlap
which at the time was enough for me to still do some testing with it. I have
the repair book now but I've got the rest of a roll shot during the Leonid
meteor shower I have to shoot off first. Bought a few bricks of out-of-date
120 film from a camera store on eBay (two bricks of Astia and one of NPL).
So far the results seem to be good. Especially the color renditions of
outdoor garden scenes. TTL meter reads very close to what my manual K-mount
bodies read, maybe 1/3 stop off. TTL finder uses 3 A76 batteries. Trust the
Russkies to use an odd voltage combination. I plan to do some winter
shooting if we get some snow here. I love the 150mm F2.8 Kaleinar.
By the way most of these lenses come with a 3 pack of front filters that fit
in a compartment in the lid of the lens cases from the factory. So if you
are interested check to see if they are there when you want to buy a lens.
In the case of the 150 that means 3 82mm filters.
If you are also contemplating a Kiev 88C (Hassy 1000 clone) only get one if
it has the mod to convert the lens mount to the Kiev 60/Pentacon bayonet. It
will save a lot of problems in buying lenses. The Kiev 88 is the one that
needs some better light baffling in the mirror box area and it is something
the Kiev repair places do as a part of a package. They can also add MLU to a
Kiev 60 and/or convert it to 6x4.5 from 6x6 if you want.
The camera, TTL finder and waist-level finder cost me $182 on eBay. And it
looked close to brand new from a dealer of them in the mid-South.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Evan Hanson
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 10:35 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Med Format Quandry


Kent, how has the Kiev 60 worked out for you I'm thinking about getting an
88 but may get the more dependable and cheaper 60 and extra lenses.

Evan


From: Kent Gittings
 All those choices have some merit. Still the main reason you buy the
camera
 is to hang good lenses on it and put the kind of film in the back you
want.
 If you want good metering you use a hand meter. According to a lot of MF
 pros I know the Schneider lenses are the best especially the Xenotars
($$$)
 which are available from a lot of the factories with their names on them.
 And believe it or not they are also available to fit the Pentacon 6/Exacta
 66/ Kiev 60 bodies. I've heard that a lot of people consider the Pentax
6x7
 as a Spotmatic on steroids. Well after using a Kiev 60 for about a year
now
 I consider it more of an Alpa 9D on steroids (not as well built as the
Alpa
 however). You can get a Kiev 60 body for about $150-250 with the TTL prism
 (uncoupled like the Alpa 9D). However they generally come in good
mechanical
 condition but need some upgrades and tuning to be on a par with other MF
 bodies. Meters are surprisingly good and accurate enough for print film if
 you don't mind the match LED  system. The slow 1/30 flash sync might be
 unacceptable for some.
 The Warsaw pact made lenses are surprisingly good with one or two that you
 might want to give a pass to (MIR 45/3.5 for one). The Arsat, Kaleinar,
Aus
 Jena (East German Zeiss) lenses are all very good and cheap at the same
time
 (all these factories were set up or improved using the captured Zeiss
 technicians and plant machinery after WWII, while the West got the Zeiss
 engineers). There are several places in the US where you can send any of
the
 Kiev's to be upgraded/improved/repaired to top condition. This includes
both
 the 35mm-like Kiev 60 and the Hassy clone Kiev 88 including changing the
 latter's mount to the Kiev 60 bayonet/breech lock. Just think of having a
 setup with both a 35mm type 120 body and another body with interchangeable
 backs using the same lens system. I paid less than $200 each for all the
 following lenses:
 Arsat 30/3.5 Fisheye (a Bob Shell Best buy)
 Mir 45/3.5 (a little soft but useable for small enlargements)
 Aus Jena 80/2.8 (same lens design as the western Zeiss)
 Kaleinar 150/2.8 (Bob Shell gem)
 Mir 250/3.5 (good longer lens)
 Mir 2x TC.
 Arsat extension tube set.
 Other good lenses include the Zeiss Flektagon 50/4, Mir 65/3.5, Zeiss
 120/2.8, Zeiss 300/4, and Pentacon 300/4 and 500/5.6.
 Not to mention adapters to use the lenses on M42, Pentax-K, and Pentax
645.
 I currently use an old classic Pentax/Honeywell Super-Lite II flash with
it
 on a Vivitar MF bracket.
 I look at it more as an extension of my Spotmatic F/ES/ES II cameras than
as
 an addition to my Pentax K and Minolta AF gear.
 And if you want to save money and have some mechanical ability there is a
 repair/fix-it manual you can buy for the Kiev 60 to fix things like the
main
 problem which is the film's frame registration (they all tend to overlap a
 little out of the box). However with the big 6x6 negatives you can often

RE: Good 300mm lens, hopefully cheap

2001-12-28 Thread Kent Gittings

For some reason your word screwmount and his word autofocus don't seem
to compatible.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Kane
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 2:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Good 300mm lens, hopefully cheap


John,

   If you are interested in a screw mount, I have one (non-pentax) that
I want to sell for about $75 plus shipping.  Let me know if your
interested.

Bill Kane

John Mustarde wrote:

 What is the best 300mm autofocus lens in K-mount that one can
 generally get for under $350 US? Primes or zooms are acceptable, as
 long as they go to 300mm, and are optically good enough for decent
 8x10 enlargements shooting wide open at 300mm.

 --
 John Mustarde
 www.photolin.com
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RE: I love the PZ-1p

2001-12-27 Thread Kent Gittings

Gee maybe that's why Canon and Minolta designed their AF lines like that
from the start.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 12:08 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: I love the PZ-1p


I agree 100%.  It is very nice to spin the dials w/o taking the eye from the
viewfinder.

The thing this thread is inevitably showing is that our sensory inputs
become accustomed to certain stimuli.  We tend to become familiar with a
camera body, and then enjoy using it.

Tom C.


- Original Message -
From: Artur Ledóchowski [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 7:53 AM
Subject: Odp: I love the PZ-1p


 - Original Message -
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: I love the PZ-1p


  Aperture control on the body is MUCH better than using
  the aperture ring on the MZ-S.  This is a BIG problem with the MZ-S and
 zoom
  lenses.  Hyper manual should have been a feature on the MZ-S, in my
 opinion.
  Heck...you can even change the aperture on the body of the ZX-7.

 EXACTLY!:) I have the MZ-7 and love the ability to control the aperture
from
 the body, since it allows me to do every operation without taking my eye
 from the viewfinder. I have everything under control of my index
fingers...
 That in the MZ-S the Av operates by turning the aperture ring was quite a
 disappointment to me. I've never owed neither a Z-1p nor the MZ-S, but
 played with a Z-1 and a Z-50 - I had NO problem with mastering the control
 of them without ANY manual (except for PF's, of course:)).

snip
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RE: Battery pack FG

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

If you don't like that one don't ever suggest you get one for a Minolta
STsi, HTsi, or XTsi. The Minolta one is as flimsy as they get made by
screwing together a bunch of plastic parts, and to top it off they use the
base plate of the camera as the top cover of the battery pack and make you
have to take it off totally to replace the batteries. No slide in battery
tray.
But I still use that and the ones on my ZX-5n, ZX-10, Maxxum 700si and
Maxxum 9. I have to admit that the vertical grip for the Maxxum 9 is the
only one really worth the money.
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mark Erickson
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 11:58 AM
To: pentax-discuss
Subject: Re: Battery pack FG


Actually, when they first came out they were something like $60 or $80
bucks!  I bought one, decided I didn't like it, and sold it for nearly what
I paid for it.  The current prices are more in line with what you get, I
think.

That said, I have the battery grip for my MZ-S and I love it!  It locks down
nice and tight, and feels really good.  I hope the MZ-S stays around for a
long time--I really like mine.

 --Mark

 t wrote---
I scored the $12 used one from BH a couple of weeks ago for my ZX-M. It was
basically brand new. Maybe it was Mark's. ;)

t
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RE: OT - Voigtlander Bessa LR (but I mention ME Super)

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

You are correct. My mistake in definition.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 4:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT - Voigtlander Bessa LR (but I mention ME Super)


No, it is a viewfinder camera. Rangefinder cameras by definition have an
optical rangefinder. That means all those AF ps cameras are not RF cameras
at all. Calling them RF cameras is about the same as calling them SLR.
camera, misleading to say the least.

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: OT - Voigtlander Bessa LR (but I mention ME Super)


 Even if the camera uses separate viewfinders like early Leicas it's still
a
 rangefinder camera.
 Kent Gittings

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Niesmertelny
 Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 7:49 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: OT - Voigtlander Bessa LR (but I mention ME Super)


 Frank, I own the Bessa L (no rangefinder/needs an lens-specific
viewfinder)
 with the Snapshot Skopar 25mm f4.  True, the body is plasticky, but the
lens
 is worth the price of the whole kit.  I'll get the 15mm eventually.  In
 terms of shutter noise, I don't think the camera was ever intended on
being
 Leica-like, only Leica-ready.  My ME Super is probably as quiet, maybe
more
 so.  But it is a funky camera, good for a conversation whenever it goes
out,
 and not threatening as an SLR might be (as it is just plain goofy
looking
 to the general population).

 I got mine from BH when they were having a special, selling them for
 US$129.00 (body only).

 Best regards,

 Chris


 Frank thanked the respondents:

 Thanks for your responses.  I surfed around the web a bit last night, and
 much of what you three said was confirmed in various reviews.

 Turns out the body's plastic (a camera shop selling them steered me
wrong).
 They also seem to have variable quality from sample to sample, as some
have
 found them quite noisy for a rangefinder, while others haven't.

 And the lenses have been almost universally praised (plus, I guess, you
can
 stick old Leica screwmounts on them if you want/can afford to).
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RE: long screw lens

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

Upsilon was Sigma/Sun's own off brand.
The same lens was also sold under Spiratone's name. I have one of those plus
an Upsilon 200/2.8. They are mostly interchangeable YS mount lenses.
Performance was not bad but not in the same ballpark as an SMC-T 300/4 (have
one of those also).
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Kane
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 12:35 PM
To: Pentax Discuss
Subject: FS: long screw lens


Hey gang,

   Since it's friday, I will list this item:  I have a long screw mount
300/4 lens I want to get rid of.  I don't remember the brand right now,
but I think it might be Upsilon.
With a k-mount adapter it works pretty nicely on any Pentax camera.

I'm looking to get $75 for it + shipping costs.  (estimated around $10
in the US via USPS ground).

If interested, contact me offlist.

Illinois Bill Kane
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RE: Cover Shot

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

I now anoint thee Sir Professional.
It's not whether you think you do professional work that counts but whether
others do.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 8:30 PM
To: Pentax Discuss
Subject: Cover Shot


I got an e-mail yesterday from Idaho Magazine.  They have decided to use one
of my shots for the January cover.  The one they chose is:

http://www.peaceoflight.com/WinterSports/GirlBlueSled.htm

There were several that I thought were good candidates.  This was one of
them.

I hand delivered it today. However I was a dufus.  When I was asked to
deliver the shot at 125% the web-image size and at 300dpi, I was thinking
web, not print, and sized the image like I was doing it for the PUG.  So
like a dork I resized my original Photoshop scan to 750 pixels high and
300dpi.  So when the art director opened it he said Uh, I think this is
going to be a little small.  I rescanned and sent him the right size.

I had asked him whether he preferred to do sharpening and contrast
adjustments with the raw scans or whether I should do it.  He said When
amateurs bring me photos I have to scan, I'll have to do that. But with
professionals like yourself I would just as soon you do it since it will
save me time.

The reference to me as a professional made me giggle inside.

Tom C.
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RE: MZ-S Data imprinting

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

That's what I said all along. The other way is nearly impossible unless the
rewind is really slow since I don't know a single camera that counts
sprocket holes on rewind and could snap shot some data while the film is
streaming by in hardly over 10 seconds or so.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bill Owens
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 9:25 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MZ-S Data imprinting


There was a thread recently about MZ-S data imprinting and whether it was
done at time of exposure or during rewind.  I can now answer the question.
At work tonight, I put the MZ-S in our dark box, opened the back and removed
about half a roll.  Stuck it in the film processor and when it exited, the
exposure data was where it was supposed to be.  Therefore, the MZ-S imprints
the exposure data at the time of exposure.

Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: DPI vs. PPI

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

Sorry but color CCD digicams use exactly the same technology as scanners in
most cases. The only interpolation they do is if they are capable of
producing a result that has higher res than the number of actual pixels in
the CCD grid. Which is exactly how a 1200x2400 pixel/dot scanner can come up
with an interpolated scan that is 9600x9600. By the way in the latest
product news from Fuji they say that generally (without specifying the film)
a 35mm snapshot has about 6 MP of info that can be mined out of it with even
the best scanners. This is when comparing it to their 6900 digicam that has
a 6 MP interpolation mode. I know at some point a higher and higher dpi film
scanner will get no more real data out of a negative/slide but just
interpolation of the areas between the grain. However I was under the
impression the amount of data on a 35mm frame was higher. So either they are
fudging so as to place themselves correctly in the digicam world or they are
correct and maybe downplaying the actual data content of their own film to
move towards a digital world.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Doug Franklin
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 10:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: DPI vs. PPI


On Fri, 21 Dec 2001 18:50:24 -0700, aimcompute wrote:

 I have noticed that scanner mfr.'s use the term interchangeably.  For
 instance Minolta lists their scanner resolutions in dpi.

I've always thought of it as pixels each have all of the color
vectors (R, G, and B, or C, M, Y, and K, or whatever), whiles dots
have only one color vector.  Sort of like the difference in color
scanner sensors and digicam sensors.  The color scanner samples all of
the colors at each pixel while the digicam (generally) only samples one
color at each pixel, then interpolates the other colors.  Printers
generally get described in dots while scanners and monitors in
pixels.

YMMV

TTYL, DougF
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RE: Shooting The Moon (Was Re: My wife just doesn't understand)

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

Full moon shots generally needs something like an ND25 or ND13 filter to
reduce glare, and increase contrast and detail. Otherwise stick to shots in
the terminator area (line of sunlight) where detail and contrast are higher.
Just remember to use an astro recommended shutter speed and not something
the camera may meter.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Blakely
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 12:16 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shooting The Moon (Was Re: My wife just doesn't understand)


I'd use 400 IS0 to keep the shutter above 1/100 even with the mirror up. As
to BW or color, the moon doesn't have much color. I find the full moon
unsatisfying. The sun is straight on so no shadows are cast. I like a
gibbous moon. Affix as much weight on the camera as is practical to reduce
the amplitude of any vibrations, but don't do anything that over stresses
the lens mount. I'd set steel points on concrete. Use a head. The earth
turns faster than you think.

Regards,
Bob...

Let us contemplate our forefathers, and posterity,
and resolve to maintain the rights bequeathed to us
from the former, for the sake of the latter.
The necessity of the times, more than ever, calls
for our utmost circumspection, deliberation, fortitude,
and perseverance. Let us remember that 'if we
suffer tamely a lawless attack upon our liberty,
we encourage it, and involve others in our doom.'
It is a very serious consideration that millions yet
unborn may be the miserable sharers of the event.
- Samuel Adams, 1771

- Original Message -
From: Doug Franklin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 7:56 PM
Subject: Shooting The Moon (Was Re: My wife just doesn't understand)


 Hi John,

 On Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:05:19 -0600, John Mustarde wrote:

  Your Sigma AF 400/5.6 APO Macro will be a pleasant surprise in terms
  of sharpness and contrast. I'm quite sure it will blow the K-400/5.6
  and certainly the Tokina out of the water, especially wide open.

 Boy, John, I hope you're right.  I'd love to find out that my technique
 isn't as bad as I thought but my 400 lenses aren't as good as I
 thought. :-)  I think I'm going to try a couple of moon shots tomorrow
 night with the Sigma.  If I think about it, I'll do some side by side
 comparison shots with the K 400.  Since I don't have a tripod collar
 for the Tokina, I can't do side by sides for it.

 Speaking of taking moon photos, I'd appreciate comments on my plan of
 attack.

 I'll be using a heavy duty surveyor's tripod (aluminum, unfortunately).
  I may use a Bogen/Manfrotto 3262 ball head (the only head I have) or I
 may put the camera directly on the tripod and adjust the legs instead
 of using a head.  I'll set the tripod up on earth rather than concrete.

 I'll ballast the tripod itself with a 40 pound (5 gallon) bucket of
 water hanging from the center yoke of the tripod.  I'm not sure
 whether it's better to keep the ballast closer to the ground or the
 yoke.  I'll ballast the lens and camera with one or two 2# ankle
 weights.  Either both over the tripod mount or one on the camera itself
 and one near the front of the lens.

 I'll use the Sigma with two Pentax 2X-S T/Cs.  It looks like the lens
 would work with a 2X-L T/C, but I don't have one. :-(  The body will be
 my LX, since I have the magnifinder (looking down into the top of the
 camera works better when it's elevated 30 or more degrees).

 I'll be using the Moony 11 rule (like Sunny 16).  That means a
 shutter speed 4/ASA since my effective aperture will be f/22. Or should
 that be 2/ASA?  I'll have to do the math again. :-)

 I haven't decided on film yet.  I've got the following in house:
 Portra 160NC, Royal Gold 100 and 400, T400CN, TriX, and Max 400.  I'm
 thinking probably Portra or RG 100, or maybe TriX.
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RE: Tokina 35-70 2.8 'Fujica' mount = Pentax, no?

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

Fujica cameras are either their bayonet or a version of M42. They have a
different style of open aperture metering than the Pentax SMC-T but all can
be used in regular M42 modes. From old handling I'm pretty sure their
bayonet mount is not truly compatible to Pentax K but I could be wrong.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cotty
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 10:31 AM
To: Pentax List
Subject: Tokina 35-70 2.8 'Fujica' mount = Pentax, no?


Someone advertising a Tokina 35-70 2.8 in a Fujica mount. Am I wrong in
assuming that this is Pentax K mount? I had a Fujica years ago and I
could swear it was a K mount???

Confused,

Cotty

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RE: DPI vs. PPI

2001-12-26 Thread Kent Gittings

I don't know either. If I thought that there was really only about 6 MP of
real info in a 35mm frame I might make the switch to digital sooner than I
expect to. But I'm not sure they are not fudging their opinions down so as
to sell large amounts of their higher end digital cameras.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 12:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: DPI vs. PPI


That's interesting, but let me ask this.  I'll do it rhethorical fashion.

When I scan a 35mm slide with my 2438ppi scanner, what part of the 20+
megabyte file would I choose as being inconsequential to the image?

And now with the 4000ppi scanners it seems there is even more data to be
found in a 35mm frame.

Tom C.

Kent Kittings wrote:

snip

 By the way in the latest
 product news from Fuji they say that generally (without specifying the
film)
 a 35mm snapshot has about 6 MP of info that can be mined out of it with
even
 the best scanners. This is when comparing it to their 6900 digicam that
has
 a 6 MP interpolation mode. I know at some point a higher and higher dpi
film
 scanner will get no more real data out of a negative/slide but just
 interpolation of the areas between the grain. However I was under the
 impression the amount of data on a 35mm frame was higher. So either they
are
 fudging so as to place themselves correctly in the digicam world or they
are
 correct and maybe downplaying the actual data content of their own film to
 move towards a digital world.
 Kent Gittings
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RE: Which Printer to Buy?

2001-12-21 Thread Kent Gittings

They may have 6 colors but only the BJC-8200 and S-800 have six tanks that
can actively use them at one time. Most or all of the rest usually require
either a separate 4 color photo cartridge (older Canons and HPs for sure and
probably the rest also) or the replacement of 2 or 3 of the 4 tank models
with photo ink cartridges.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 2:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Which Printer to Buy?


I think all the PHOTO printers have six colors, either standard or as an
option.

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: Which Printer to Buy?


 S800 has 6 ink tanks instead of 4 so it can have the regular and 2 photo
ink
 cartridges in and in use at the same time. It should increase the range of
 reproducible colors. It has the same ink tank arrangement as the
 discontinued BJC-8200 which I think at least one user on this list has.
 Kent Gittings

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Jones
 Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:28 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Which Printer to Buy?


 Hi,

 Have the results come in from the PDML printer showdown? maybe i just
missed
 them.

 I'm proably going to buy an Inkjet this weekend. The ones i'm looking at
are
 a Canon S600, Canon S800 and Epson 980. Is there other I should be looking
 at? Has any one got any opinions on these?

 As yet i'm unable to see any real difference between the S600 and S800
 except for speed.

 The 980 is an A4 version of the 1270 or 1280 isnt it?

 I dont need a printer that prints more than A4 size as my scanner wont
scan
 at a high enough res to go that big.

 Any comments appreciated.

 Have the results come in from the PDML printer showdown? maybe i just
missed
 them.

 Thanks,
 Paul Jones
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RE: Car Show Photo Suggestions ...

2001-12-21 Thread Kent Gittings

Having done that show for several years you need to try and work your way
around to eliminate the light reflection point coming off the car. Unless
you want to do more of an art print and use a 4 or 6 point star filter.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Doug Franklin
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 7:49 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Car Show Photo Suggestions ...


On Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:00:35 +1100, Kevin Waterson wrote:

  make sure your exposures are very close to ambient. The flash will help
  clean up the color, but you'll have some ugly highlights in glass and
chrome.

 What if an off camera flash was used so that you had the light coming in
at
 45 degrees, have a friend hold the flash or if you have room, use a
tripod.

You'll still get nasty reflections in many cases, they'll just be in a
different spot on the car. :-)

TTYL, DougF
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RE: OT - Voigtlander Bessa LR (but I mention ME Super)

2001-12-21 Thread Kent Gittings

Even if the camera uses separate viewfinders like early Leicas it's still a
rangefinder camera.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Niesmertelny
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 7:49 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT - Voigtlander Bessa LR (but I mention ME Super)


Frank, I own the Bessa L (no rangefinder/needs an lens-specific viewfinder)
with the Snapshot Skopar 25mm f4.  True, the body is plasticky, but the lens
is worth the price of the whole kit.  I'll get the 15mm eventually.  In
terms of shutter noise, I don't think the camera was ever intended on being
Leica-like, only Leica-ready.  My ME Super is probably as quiet, maybe more
so.  But it is a funky camera, good for a conversation whenever it goes out,
and not threatening as an SLR might be (as it is just plain goofy looking
to the general population).

I got mine from BH when they were having a special, selling them for
US$129.00 (body only).

Best regards,

Chris


Frank thanked the respondents:

Thanks for your responses.  I surfed around the web a bit last night, and
much of what you three said was confirmed in various reviews.

Turns out the body's plastic (a camera shop selling them steered me wrong).
They also seem to have variable quality from sample to sample, as some have
found them quite noisy for a rangefinder, while others haven't.

And the lenses have been almost universally praised (plus, I guess, you can
stick old Leica screwmounts on them if you want/can afford to).
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RE: Car Show Photo Suggestions ...

2001-12-21 Thread Kent Gittings

From memory the DC convention center uses overhead sodium, mercury or
halogen reflector lights suspended from the ceiling. However many of the
booth areas add their own light which can often be small halogen or
fluorescent.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 11:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Car Show Photo Suggestions ...


It would be very uneven lighting. You'd have to have two flashes, and
you'd still have some nasty reflections, Your best bet is to use the
lighting in the show area and adjust your filtration accordingly. If you
check with some local photographers who regularly shoot in that
exhibition hall, they can probably advise you as to the color temp of
the lights. The pr person at the facility might also be able to provide
this info.
Paul

Kevin Waterson wrote:

 Paul Stenquist wrote:

  make sure your exposures are very close to ambient. The flash will help
  clean up the color, but you'll have some ugly highlights in glass and
chrome.

 What if an off camera flash was used so that you had the light coming in
at
 45 degrees, have a friend hold the flash or if you have room, use a
tripod.

 How would this arrangement work?

car_here

 flash camera

 Kind regards
 Kevin
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RE: Which Printer to Buy?

2001-12-20 Thread Kent Gittings

S800 has 6 ink tanks instead of 4 so it can have the regular and 2 photo ink
cartridges in and in use at the same time. It should increase the range of
reproducible colors. It has the same ink tank arrangement as the
discontinued BJC-8200 which I think at least one user on this list has.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Jones
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:28 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Which Printer to Buy?


Hi,

Have the results come in from the PDML printer showdown? maybe i just missed
them.

I'm proably going to buy an Inkjet this weekend. The ones i'm looking at are
a Canon S600, Canon S800 and Epson 980. Is there other I should be looking
at? Has any one got any opinions on these?

As yet i'm unable to see any real difference between the S600 and S800
except for speed.

The 980 is an A4 version of the 1270 or 1280 isnt it?

I dont need a printer that prints more than A4 size as my scanner wont scan
at a high enough res to go that big.

Any comments appreciated.

Have the results come in from the PDML printer showdown? maybe i just missed
them.

Thanks,
Paul Jones
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RE: Vs: Voigtlander lens

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

I think from memory they sold VCRs under the Kyocera name before they did
35mm cameras but I could be confused on the timing.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Raimo Korhonen
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 12:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Vs: Vs: Voigtlander lens


Video? Kyocera is short version of Kyoto Ceramics - then they bought the
bankrupt Yashica. But you are right, nobody is complaining.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at
http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 18. joulukuuta 2001 15:29
Aihe: RE: Vs: Voigtlander lens


Same thing Kyocera did when they resurrected Contax. I don't notice too
many
people complaining about them being primarily a video company till then.
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Aaron Reynolds
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Vs: Voigtlander lens


On Monday, December 17, 2001, at 04:55  PM, Raimo Korhonen wrote:

 Correct - but I have two Voigtländer/Cosina LTM lenses - 4.5/15 mm and
 1.7/35 mm - and the quality is impressive. Cosina also made the Ricoh
 KR-5 and it has a good reputation as a simple but reliable camera.

Certainly.  I didn't mean to imply that they weren't manufacturing good
stuff under the Voightlander name, just that they had not so great a
reputation as Cosina, so they bought the Voightlander name to give
themselves some credibility for their higher-end products.

-Aaron
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RE: Needing a AF500FTZ

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

I have one you can have for $250 plus shipping. I have everything including
the original box. Contact me privately on this. I love the flash but I'm
phasing out all of my Pentax AF stuff right now.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Nick Wright
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 7:43 PM
To: PDML
Subject: Needing a AF500FTZ


Hi all,
I've decided that I need to get the AF500FTZ flash... Does anyone have one
that they can let go? Thanks!!!

Nick
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RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

Having been in this field longer than your brother I think you may have not
posed the correct question. We aren't taking about voltage but the amount of
current a given battery technology can sink across a give load value. A
circuit has the same amount of current flow as long as the ohm value of the
load and the voltage of the source remain constant. However in a camera the
load seen is high (low current) when only the metering is operating. When
the motordrive kicks in the power source has to be able to increase it's
current flow to power the startup torque and running of the motor. The only
way to do this is to suddenly have the battery see a lower load (fewer ohms
of resistance). Various battery technologies have different peak current
supply capabilities. If the camera maker wants to use this as part of the
protection circuitry of the camera they will specify a limited battery type
for the camera. Using rechargeables is only a problem in the voltage area if
the electronics need to run close to the voltage produced by x number of
alkalines or other specified types. If the camera has power regulation down
to a something like 4 volts from 4 AA alkalines then 4 NiCads at 4.8 will
work.
On the otherhand if the camera maker says not to use NiMH or Lithium-Ion
batteries it generally means that prolonged use of higher current capable
battery technologies will eventually burn out some of the electronics
because they were using the source current limit as part of the design
process. Especially if the manual says something like use of battery types
not specified can void the warranty.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Ryan Charron
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 8:48 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Rechargeable (2CR5) for PZ-1p


Hello to All,

My brother has been in electronics for over 25 years
and he told me there is No Way that a rechargable
could damage a camera motor. Rechargables always have
a little less voltage than the regular batteries they
replace. (1.25 volts to 1.5 volts for instance)
To settle the issue, I have been using rechargables in
my AA holder on my ZX5n and have had No Problems.

A Rechargable Fan,
Ryan



Somebody wrote:

 mentioned that the hardness (high current output
under big
drain) of
 NiCd or big NiMH might damage the motor or
something, is this
really
 true? Although I don't have this camera, I have made
batterypacks for
 almost everything photo-electric I have (mostly
using old
notebook
 batteries, a friend tested them and selected the
best for me,
 suprising how they hold), so it's a
curiosity-question.

 Good light,
  Frantisek
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RE: why do tele-lenses have ED glass

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

It's not just longer lenses but faster ones with bigger front elements. The
acceptable F-ratio for controlling dispersion without ED type glass goes up
(slower) the larger the front element regardless of the F-ratio. In simple
achromatic systems the acceptable F-ratio is 3 at F/15. But if the front
element goes up to 4 the ratio has to be F/20 or slower, while for 5 it
goes to F/27 or so.
So the focus dispersion problem is significantly higher for a 600/4 lens
than a 600/5.6 or a 600/8 lens because the front element is around 6
instead of 4 or 3. The steeper the light path the worse the problem
(faster the F-ratio).
Kent Gittings
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Fred
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 8:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: why do tele-lenses have ED glass


 does anyone know why tele-lenses have ED glass, and why wide
 angles do not?

First:  As I understand it, low dispersion glass can be used to help
prevent color fringing (sometimes visible as a red or purple edge on
a viewed object).  Since the different wavelengths (colors) of light
are refracted by ordinary glass at different angles, glass designed
to prevent this dispersion of light rays is cleverly called LD
(for Low Dispersion) glass or (if the marketing department has its
way - g) ED (for Extra low Dispersion) glass.

Then:  Lenses with longer focal lengths are the ones that tend to
disperse the red and purple ends of the spectrum the most, if not
corrected (or minimized, actually).  The weak point in my little
explanation here is that I do not know why this is more of a problem
for longer focal lengths than shorter.  (Sorry.)  I guess a little
knowledge is a dangerous thing...

So, my quick and dirty answer to your question, Frank, is that
telephotos naturally produce more color fringing than wide-angles,
so that they benefit more from the use of LD or ED glass, designed
to minimize fringing.  Just don't ask me to explain why it is the
long lenses that produce the most color fringing - g.

Fred
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RE: 50mm/1.2 Variations

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

The / was a carryover from the Takumar days.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tim Engel
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 11:47 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 50mm/1.2 Variations


19 Dec 01, Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Just curious about the serial numbers of the different K50/1.2
 variations.  Can someone post the SNs for their K50/1.2s and let me know
 if it's an early or late model.  Thanks!   ---   Shel Belinkoff


Shel,

I have two K50  1.2's
SMC  PENTAX  1:1.2  50mm  Serial Number 1467330  and
SMC  PENTAX  1:1.2  50mm  Serial Number 1444624.

Neither has the  /.
Both have the  mm.

The recent threads concerning with-n-without  /mm  is the first
I've heard that two versions existed,  so I'm hardly the authority to
confirm that mine are early or late models.   But I'm assuming from this new
info that they are both examples of the later model.

Regards,
Tim Engel
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RE: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

Me too although I've never bought the upgrades to go above my current
version 5.03 as yet. I suppose the more digital work I dabble in the more I
might be inclined to upgrade to the latest version.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of tom
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 4:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Adobe Photoshop Elements


Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote:

 Paint Shop Pro may have a demo-download available, too - I know they did
in the past.


They do:

http://jasc.com/

I like PSP for the few things I do.

tv
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RE: Met Art Wolfe

2001-12-19 Thread Kent Gittings

Actually I think what he is saying is what a lot of wildlife shooters say
about the difference between primes and current zooms is that the results
are indistinguishable between a fast 200 prime and a pro level 80-200 zoom
at 200mm. Not to say they don't have some differences but that they can't be
seen on the film they are shooting. I know in my case I can't tell the
difference between shots made with my old Pentax SMC 200/2.5 and my current
Sigma EX 70-200/2.8 at 200mm.
But remember these guys aren't talking about using zooms in place of
300-800mm primes but in place of 200mm and under ones. Except in the case of
digital when an 80-200/2.8 zoom would be used instead of a 300/2.8 prime due
to the multiplication factor.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of aimcompute
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 10:37 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Met Art Wolfe


I suspect the reason he prefers zooms is the nature of his shots.  When
you're dealing with a flock of birds or a frolicking bear, you don't
necessarily have the time to change lenses.

Tom C.

- Original Message -
From: harald_nancy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: Met Art Wolfe


 Just happened to run into Art Wolfe, world renowned wildlife
 and outdoor photographer, this weekend in Seattle, Washington.
 If you don't know, this is his website:
 http://www.artwolfe.com/

 Started talking a bit about outdoor photography, so I asked him
 What's your favorite lense?
 He asks, What camera are you using?
 I say, Pentax.
 His eyes light up, Ah, Medium format. (one of his cameras is a Pentax
Med.
 Format).
 No, I say, 35mm.
 I was kind of surprised that his favorite lense right now for 35mm
 is the super wide angle zoom 17-35 mm. Next favorite 70-200mm zoom.
 In his opinion modern pro-grade zooms have advanced to such a
 degree that they are equal to primary lenses. He prefers them for
composing.
 His results obviously speak for themselves.
 Just thought to share it with you.
 Harald
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RE: EBay Buying

2001-12-17 Thread Kent Gittings

When I'm bidding seriously that is the way I bid also. I've found I can get
much closer to the end using my office T-1 link than my dialup at home. I
think 3 seconds from the end is my closest at work. However since I have
most everything these days I'm seldom that intense anymore.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Cotty
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 5:20 PM
To: Pentax List
Subject: RE: EBay Buying


Mark gives sound advice. But Cotty's the name, Sniping's the game.

With all due respect, 60 seconds is far to much time to allow the
competition to reload the page and hit with a higher bid. My usual bid
time is at T-minus 12 seconds. My closest-to-auction-finish bid time was
T-minus 3 seconds. I'm confident I can do it down to one second, but
daren't try because I only bid on things I really want.

Hints:

I keep a small window at the bottom of the screen all ready to go with
the 'submit' button visible, a much larger window with the auction
towards the top of the screen. This can be reloaded at intervals to
confirm connection reliability. If it's REALLY important, a stand-by
computer is fired up and ready to go with windows ready and waiting, but
obviously (on my modem connections) would take twenty seconds to hook up
should the main machine crash / freeze / go U/S for any reason.

Guage connection delay by refreshing the auction page at intervals of one
minute, prior to the auction finish. EG if auction due to finish at
12:04:15, then try reloading the page at 12:02:15, then check 'auction
finishes in XXX' time for delay. If it says 'auction finishes in 1 minute
58 seconds, then you know it took 2 seconds for your reload to register
at the eBay end, and so will your bid.probably. I do 12 seconds,
although I've been an adrenalin junkie recently with some 7 second hits.
Love it! If that don't unclog the arteries, nothing will!

Oh yeah, bid high, if you really want it, that is...

;-)

Cotty

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RE: ? PShop darkframe subst

2001-12-17 Thread Kent Gittings

Some digital cameras take an additional dark frame just before the shot and
subtract it on the fly. You might want to check and make sure yours isn't
one of those. Actually the noise is related to a lot of factors and it
doesn't change as fast as you may think.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 7:00 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ? PShop darkframe subst


Thanks for explanation!

Guess I will have to use more conventional noise removal techniques,
as I think (as Mark pointed out) the noise would change too much
between the dark shot and normal shot - after all, it's called
noise, being irregular. I am not sure if it can work very well in
the E20, btw, won't the noise pattern change too much even if they do
it just before exposure? they must be very quick. Colour noise is not
much problem, easy to remove, but what is a problem is luminance
noise, extremely hard to remove without sacrificing detail. I find out
that giving more exposure usually helps, but I used so far my digicam
almost only to get news pictures of a music festival, where of course
lighting wasn't ideal, so I had to use 400 iso anyway. For newspaper,
it was ok fortunately.

Frantisek
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RE: K2 DMD without flashsync

2001-12-17 Thread Kent Gittings

I assume for that price it don't have the motor drive.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Anders Werholt
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 11:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: K2 DMD without flashsync


Hi all,

I have found a K2 DMD in good condition, except that the flash-sync does not
work. I think the seller is asking a reasonably price (about 240 USD,
including SMCM 35/2 and SMCM 100/2.8, both in good condition). This body is
not found so often, at least not where I live.
The problem is the flash-sync. This is not easily fixed, or am I wrong? The
problem is probably shutter-related, and rather expensive to fix (if
possible
at all).
Any advices?

Best regards
Anders Werholt
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RE: 500/4.5

2001-12-17 Thread Kent Gittings

Is it M42 or K-mount?
Its a manual lens either way. Good lens even by today's standards. However
the 4 optical elements give it a long minimum focus distance. Longer than a
current lens like the AF Sigma 500/4.5 for instance that has more elements.
These things tend to go for around $700-800 on eBay depending on version,
whether it is SMC or not, or one of the ones with Nikon mounts modified in
NYC for the AP.
Nobody makes a 500/4.5 mirror lens by the way. Only Sigma made a 500/4
mirror which actually goes pretty high on the used market.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Kane
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 1:28 PM
To: Pentax Discuss
Subject: 500/4.5


Hey gang,

Anyone know how much the Pentax 500/4.5 should go for?  This is the
SMC, and is NOT a mirror lens.  I've got the chance to get one, and am
thinking about jumping on it as a holiday gift of sorts to myself . . .

Thanks,
Illinois Bill
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RE: Sigma APO 100-300mm f4 EX IF HSM

2001-12-17 Thread Kent Gittings

It has similar size and weight to the Tokina 100-300/4 I have in Minolta AF
mount. It can be hand held as well as any 300/4 lens can be. If you can do
one you can do the other.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Joseph Tainter
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 11:58 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Sigma APO 100-300mm f4 EX IF HSM


This looks like an interesting lens, and I believe there were good
comments on the list about it. On Sigma's web site, it is listed as
nearly 1.5 kg., or over 3 lbs. in weight. So my question to those who
have used it is: is this a tripod lens, or can it be used hand-held?

Thanks,

Joe
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RE: EBay Buying

2001-12-14 Thread Kent Gittings

Check seller's feedback especially recent ones. Also decide on your maximum
price and try to control the impulse to buy it no matter what (unless we are
talking about valuable items that might be a great deal, but try to control
the impulse unless you want to go into buying and selling for profit). Know
exactly what you are buying and don't be afraid to email questions to the
seller if you are not sure.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 10:39 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: EBay Buying


All, I am looking at making a purchase via EBay.

I understand that it is buyer beware, but was wondering what things I
should look for or ask the seller before throwing my hat in the ring.

Also, there is a reserved price - is it OK to ask the seller what that is?

Thanks for the help...
Ed K
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RE: OT: Re: Australians

2001-12-13 Thread Kent Gittings

I'm trying to figure out what you mean by version of for civilians. If you
mean a non military version you are sort of correct. While the several
versions of the full auto M16 don't have a civilian version there are plenty
of semi-auto versions under other names produced by Armalite, Clot and
others. Bushmaster even sells a bullpup version that takes all the same
critical parts. And don't forget the semi-auto H-Bar precision target model.
It still takes 20-40 round M16 magazines.
On the subject of full-auto Class 3 weapons any law-biding, non-felony
convicted American can get just about any full auto military firearm as long
as you want to go through the background checks and pay all the money
involve. Also the local police chief/sheriff where you reside has to approve
and sign off that he will allow it to be stored in his jurisdiction. Some
will and some won't. Getting in good with the local police is a good start
before hand. I have friends who have M-60s, WWI/II British Vickers, Browning
.30 Cal air and water-cooled, and German MG-34 light and medium machineguns.
ATF and the local police know exactly where any legally owned full auto
weapon is. The felony for an illegal one or even the parts to convert a
semi-auto to full auto is a  term from 10-20 years and only in rare cases do
they impose less than 15 years. The husband of one of my former fellow
employees owns a full military M-16. It was fine up here but when he moved
to a new brokerage house and they sent him to North Carolina the local
sheriff didn't want no Yankee owned machinegun in his county even though
several of his local friends legally had some. So my friend had to store in
it a secure location outside that county. By the time he evolved into a
local good ol' boy he got sent back up to the Washington DC area and it
didn't matter.
Kent Gittings


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Blakely
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 5:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Re: Australians


I've tried to stay out of this OT thread, but the level of ignorance and of
and paucity of rational thought is seriously getting to me. As to one
previous poster who stated that the NRA produced ads with erroneous data
concerning gun control in Australia, there was one such show 1/2 hour in
length which contained an interview with Keith Tidswell of Australia's
Sporting Shooters Association. the Australian government lodged an official
complaint with the NRA demanding that they pull this misleading video. The
NRA said, basically, Screw you! We've researched the figures presented by
Mr. Tidswell using your governments information and found them to be true.
The interview is still available on the NRA site.

As to your amazement that:

 After the various massacres that have occurred (Dunblane, Port Arthur,
 Columbine) it amazes me to think that anyone anywhere still believes it's
Ok
 for ordinary citizens to ordinarily possess weapons not necessary to their
 trade (e.g. farmers with anti-vermin weapons, not M16's, AK47's or even
M60's!).

1.No ordinary citizen of the United States has ever owned an M16's,
AK47's or even M60's. Non fully automatic versions of M16's, AK47's are
available in most states. M60's are not available. There is no version for
civilians. I prefer the old M1 from WWII and the M1A (Civilian version of
the M14) for national matches (Civilian Marksmanship Program, created by the
U.S. Congress, http://www.odcmp.com/about_us.htm) - and for hunting. The
felt recoil of a semi-automatic rifle is about half that of a bolt action
version. Recoil on the M1A is also significantly reduced further by the
flash suppressor.

2.Considering the fact that such aberrations as Dunblane, Port Arthur,
Columbine are exceedingly rare, and that all such deaths over recorded
history don't even begin to compare with the (comparable ages) death toll
from automobiles, or swimming pools, cleaning chemicals under the sink or
bicycles, etc. firearms are a comparatively safe household item. I say house
hold item because there is something like 250 million firearms owned by 80
million civilians in approximately 40 million families in the US.

Each year, approximately 150,000 folks are killed by physician and
pharmaceutical error. Most of these folks were not involved in any life or
limb threatening situation. This dwarfs folks killed in automobiles ~50,000
and those killed by firearms ~20,000. Presented for perspective...

From: John Coyle [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 I've stayed out of this one so far, but as a naturalised Australian born
in
 England I now gotta jump in!
 Kent, the presumption of innocence also applies in both England and
Australia -
 the rule is that, in a jury trial, the jury must be satisfied 'beyond
 reasonable doubt' of the guilt of the accused.  It is only recently that
some
 offences can be tried with a majority verdict rule applying, also.
  Incidentally, since the Americas were settled

RE: OT: Re: Australians

2001-12-13 Thread Kent Gittings

Not really. To be honest it just means the criminals are more careful and
commit less crimes as a result. The guns in illegal hands are still there.
Not to mention any competent person in the world with a decent milling
machine and lathe could turn out serviceable guns as long as they could get
the stock to machine it from.
It's not possible to uninvent anything whether it is a weapon or a camera.
So lets get back to photography.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of dave o'brien
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 4:25 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Re: Australians


On Tue, 11 Dec 2001, Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

 I probably should refrain from commenting in this thread, but when have I
 ever shown good sense? Here in the US the statistics show when states have
 enacted shall issue concealed carry laws the violent crime rate goes
down
 dramatically. A fact the anti-gun people try to cover up.

Does that mean that the violent crime statistics actually begin to
approach those of countries without mass gun ownership?

dave
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RE: Apology

2001-12-13 Thread Kent Gittings

That's OK Mike. We are all probably just as sorry for bringing it up in the
first place.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mike Johnston
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 7:58 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Apology


Hey everybody,



I apologize for my intemperate post yesterday objecting to the gun thread
and threatening to leave. I should have thought that one over before hitting
Send. Sorry!



--Mike
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RE: Re: OT posts

2001-12-13 Thread Kent Gittings

The unfortunate part about mistyping a word is when it is still a valid word
your spell checker will pass it right by.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mike wilson
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 10:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: OT: Re: OT posts


Kent Gittings wrote:

 Clot

Bullseye!
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RE: OT: Re: Australians

2001-12-12 Thread Kent Gittings

So that means many fine semi-auto competition/hunting shotguns are out also.
Part of the problem is cultural history. Our ancestors resentment of the
authority of the Crown finally made us make a successful effort to split
from it. In England the Army was the mechanism that kept the peasants and
serfs in line and maintained order. Owning of a sword by a person not part
of the establishment was a  capitol offense (after the Norman conquest at
least). So the cultural bias was towards depending on the local authority
for protection.
In America it was a bitter fight just to get any kind of a standing army
after independence. We were all sort of Libertarians in those days. Each
person was expected to aid in the common good but each one also assumed
personal protection for himself and his own. This was more like the Saxon
fyrd concept than the Norman-English standing army concept.
The concept was also framed in the Constitution on the off chance that some
form of government came to power that the general citizenry might take
serious offense to in the abrogation of their written and perceived
liberties.
Of course in those days the highest form of military weapon short of
artillery was the musket which often had to be used to both defend yourself
and put food on the table. Now there is hardly a case for owning a full auto
military grade M-16 under those concepts but the law does permit law biding
citizen to own one (at great expense). As a law biding member of society I
could apply for and buy an M-60 machinegun and several thousand rounds of
ammunition as both a collector and a shooter (they have special machinegun
shooting days at some military bases a couple of times a year). The gun
itself would cost around $5000 or more. Add in the $1500 for a top of the
line gun safe to allow it to be stored in your house and you'd be out $10K
in short order if you wanted to shoot it also.
I personally don't own any Class 3 weapons (destructive devices that include
full auto weapons and other military items that can shoot explosive rounds),
but I do have numerous semi-auto handguns and shotguns in addition to
revolvers and hunting rifles. I only caught up to my wife recently and she
still has more handguns than I do (she collects special model Brownings).
So the cost of something like that would be more than a Canon EOS-1D system,
which to be honest I'd rather have than even a Browning M1A2 50 cal.
machinegun.
Except in the event of the breakdown of civilization as we know it. Then I'd
be wishing for the 50 cal. BMG instead.
Kent Gittings


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Jones
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 3:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Re: Australians


Hi Kent,


 Coming from a freedom loving gun happy culture like America I was
wondering
 how the average Aussie perceives the latest police regs I saw posted from
 Australia.

From what i have seen the average Australian doesnt have a problem with it
and they find it quite scarey that in the  US the gun lobby has such power
and that Americans are so 'gun loving'. The new law from memory only stopped
ownership of semi-automatic rifles (no automatic also).

I dont think that Australia was ever as gun orientated as the US and with
current laws if you want a gun to go hunting, use one on your farm or in a
gun club (the sort that shoots targets i assume) then you can get one.

You just can't buy machine guns and the sort of stuff you could outfit an
army with. I think handguns are illegal in all states (TAS?), except for
target shooting stuff. It would be a lengthy process to obtain one for this
purpose i assume.

. I realize a lot
 of it is based on English law (guilty until proven innocent) and not
 American law (innocent until proven guilty).

This is incorrect.

 Over here bumper stickers are a big form of political/social comment. In
 this realm a common one goes:
 A man with a gun is a citizen
 A man without a gun is a subject

We have bumper stickers here, though probaly not to the same extent as the
US. I see the odd person, with a sticker I Vote, I Shoot, these are
usually on trucks and utes and look like the sort of person who probaly
shouldn't own a gun :)

I think Charlton Heston has lost a few browny points here.

Regards,
Paul
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RE: OT: Re: Australians

2001-12-12 Thread Kent Gittings

Maybe but if your like other people I know who live under the Crown-subject
system just let them make, hopefully, a mistake and target you and see how
you like the system then.
The job of the police is apprehension not protection in reality. Just ask
one. So between the time they might get there and the time the trouble
starts a person has to take responsibility for his protection and that of
his home and family.
If there is no possibility that a gun could be involved (ha ha) then it
behooves the person involved to at least take up some martial art as an act
of protection for him and his family.
I've been involved in various martial arts for over 30 years. I'm proficient
with just about every possible missile throwing weapon up to and including
the M79 grenade launcher in the US military arsenal. Between my late father,
and my brother and I we could have probably made several Olympic teams in
various shotgun, rifle, and archery competitions (I was also invited to the
Olympic trials in volleyball in 68 and 72).
I'm just paranoid enough that in a society with no guns at all I feel pretty
safe. But in any land where bad guys can have them I wouldn't feel safe
without something of my own and neither would my wife.
So let's get back to photography where the things we shoot don't die as a
result.
Kent Gittings
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John Coyle
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 2:03 PM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: OT: Re: Australians


I've stayed out of this one so far, but as a naturalised Australian born in
England I now gotta jump in!
Kent, the presumption of innocence also applies in both England and
Australia -
the rule is that, in a jury trial, the jury must be satisfied 'beyond
reasonable doubt' of the guilt of the accused.  It is only recently that
some
offences can be tried with a majority verdict rule applying, also.
 Incidentally, since the Americas were settled largely by the English and
French, you may find that the basis of your US law was that of English 18th
century law, modified after independence.
After the various massacres that have occurred (Dunblane, Port Arthur,
Columbine) it amazes me to think that anyone anywhere still believes it's Ok
for ordinary citizens to ordinarily possess weapons not necessary to their
trade (eg farmers with anti-vermin weapons, not M16's, AK47's or even
M60's!).
I am not sure, either, that I don't prefer our police and security forces
having the right to fully investigate suspected terrorists without the
constraints of their so-called 'civil rights' having to be taken into
account.
 And we don't have legislation to allow a military court to summarily try
and
execute suspects either!

I promise this will be my only contribution to this OT thread!

John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia


On Wednesday, December 12, 2001 12:36 AM, Kent Gittings [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
wrote:
 Coming from a freedom loving gun happy culture like America I was
wondering
 how the average Aussie perceives the latest police regs I saw posted from
 Australia. Seems to me here at least we would be up in arms if our
 government was given the police powers that yours are given. I realize a
lot
 of it is based on English law (guilty until proven innocent) and not
 American law (innocent until proven guilty).
 Over here bumper stickers are a big form of political/social comment. In
 this realm a common one goes:
 A man with a gun is a citizen
 A man without a gun is a subject
 Kent Gittings

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kevin Waterson
 Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 7:21 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: OT: Re: Australians


 Paul Jones wrote:

 
  I think that referendum for a republic was defeated due to the proposed
  system that was put forward, not because we didnt want to become a
 republic.

 Yes, this was also played a big part in it.
 The republic model put forward was very wanting in democratic process.

  Its kinda interesting to see how some people from other countries
persieve
  us.

 I am an Australian, I live in Byron Bay

 Kevin
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RE: MZ-S Film-rewind Problem (was/still is MZ-S Imprinting Proble m)

2001-12-12 Thread Kent Gittings

I agree. But from a technical point of view imprinting during rewind is a
major technical hurdle. On the otherhand if it is done at the shot time like
every Pentax has done in the past it would make the camera mid-roll rewind
and replace work much easier from a design point of view. Putting some kind
of sensor in the area of the imprinting to check the exposure of the frame
is much easier that trying to do one in the picture area you might have to
move out of the way when you need to shoot. It's the KISS principle.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Chris Brogden
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 6:43 PM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: MZ-S Film-rewind Problem (was/still is MZ-S Imprinting
Proble m)


On Wed, 12 Dec 2001, John Coyle wrote:

 The expert's opinion does not gel with previous explanations, which
 seems odd.

This should be an easy one.  Can someone with an MZ-S shoot a roll, take
the camera into a dark place one shot before the end, remove the film,
rewind it manually, and get it developed?  If there's no data, then it's
printed during the rewind.  A control sample (a roll of film shot at the
same time but rewound normally) would be a good idea, too.

chris
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RE: Screen cleaning

2001-12-12 Thread Kent Gittings

If the screen is glass use acetone. If plastic use something like distilled
mater and mild soap, or possibly Windex but one without the ammonia
additive. Blow it off with a little air first though.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Juan J. Buhler
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 7:03 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Screen cleaning


So, my $67 black MX is here, and it looks quite as described in ebay.
Dirty screen, winder cap missing, bad foam, but good and working
otherwise. Even a bit less brassed that my main black MX.

The screen seems just dirty. You can focus a lens, but it is
distracting. I will try an LX screen on it, but until I get a cheap
one, do you guys think I'll have any luck trying to clean the one
that's there? Any way to clean these things?

Thanks,

j

--
---
 Juan J. Buhler | Sr. FX Animator @ PDI | Photos at http://www.jbuhler.com
---
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RE: Help Advice needed

2001-12-12 Thread Kent Gittings

PZ-1p is what I would trade in. The ZX-5 makes a good compact camera for
those situations where you might want to travel light.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Nicolas Colarusso,
CGA
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 7:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Help Advice needed


Hi

Need your help.. I am trading in either my MZ5n or Z1p for an MZ-s.
Which would you trade in?

Thanks in advance
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RE: LX finders

2001-12-12 Thread Kent Gittings

I remember paying $350 for that in Mint condition when I had my LX.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of wendy beard
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 8:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: LX finders


After Stan mentioned the sports finder for the LX after my question about
monopods, I thought I'd have a look round on ebay at prices.
As luck would have it, there was one listed (FB1 with FC1)
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1307363696
ending today.
I was keeping an eye on it while looking around the stores with second hand
listings.
Then I noticed this in the description:
International biders will add 5% to the total bid
So didn't bother. Bit of a cheek I thought. Is this sort of thing common
practice?

Wendy

---
Wendy  Paul Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: Australians

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

The Soviets were always at least a close 3rd when it came to alcohol abuse.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kevin Waterson
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 6:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Australians


Bill Owens wrote:

 I've heard that Australia has the largest per capita beer consumption on
 Earth.  If so, they're my kind of folks.

This is true some of the time, we do compete with the Germans on this.
The under current of this is the large alcohol problem in australia, we also
top the world in alcohol related crime and alcohol related illnesses eg
liver
disfunction. Last year I lost a dear friend, aged 40, who lost his battle
with
the bottle, he died on a Sydney street in the gutter. He new there was a
better choice in life, but the bottle had him. I guess it was his choice,
and
lived his life as a tramp. None-the-less, he was a good friend.

Kevin
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RE: OT: Re: Australians

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

Coming from a freedom loving gun happy culture like America I was wondering
how the average Aussie perceives the latest police regs I saw posted from
Australia. Seems to me here at least we would be up in arms if our
government was given the police powers that yours are given. I realize a lot
of it is based on English law (guilty until proven innocent) and not
American law (innocent until proven guilty).
Over here bumper stickers are a big form of political/social comment. In
this realm a common one goes:
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kevin Waterson
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 7:21 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Re: Australians


Paul Jones wrote:


 I think that referendum for a republic was defeated due to the proposed
 system that was put forward, not because we didnt want to become a
republic.

Yes, this was also played a big part in it.
The republic model put forward was very wanting in democratic process.

 Its kinda interesting to see how some people from other countries persieve
 us.

I am an Australian, I live in Byron Bay

Kevin
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RE: Australians

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

I have some in my collection as a matter of fact. I think they are from New
South Wales somewhere.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Rapp
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 7:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Australians


But.
Talk to a Aussie about wine and you are in for a real treat. Australia
and New Zealand produce some of the finest in the world. The exports to
England exceed what England import from France!

Bob

- Original Message -
From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: Australians


 I think Germany beats us.

 Regards
 Paul, who doesn't drink beer
 Melbourne, Aus
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 8:21 AM
 Subject: Re: Australians


  I've heard that Australia has the largest per capita beer consumption on
  Earth.  If so, they're my kind of folks.
 
  Bill, KG4LOV
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
   Actually I admire and respect them also. I personally think Paul was a
   stinker for that but I happen to like Steve Irwin. Anybody the English
  look
   down on is my type of people. Met several of them during Nam. Only
 problem
   was I wasn't a big drinker and they were.
   Kent Gittings
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RE: MZ-S AF pattern - strange verticals?

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

Are you talking about with or without a vertical grip?
Although not the only way the book correct way to shoot vertical is to have
the shutter button on top which is the same orientation as it would have
with a vertical grip. Several cameras I know of can tell the orientation
such that one of the left side AF points becomes the bottom center when held
vertical.
Obviously in those cases where somebody might hold it the opposite way with
the shutter on the down side the sensors would be in the wrong area. This
might come into play as you are suggesting possibly. I'm not totally
familiar with the MZ-S pattern myself.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 5:51 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MZ-S AF pattern - strange verticals?


Hi,
   Just out of curiosity, why do you think (if you find it lacking)
   MZ-S lacks a bottom (far-right when vertical) AF point? For me, it
   would make AFing portraits pretty difficult, as we (the part of
   PDML using Latin alphabet or writing in leftright direction) tend
   to read photos from left to right, so an optimized portrait
   placing is looking to the left, on right side of frame (if I can
   exaggerate it somehow).

   I am just curious if this missing AF point is beacuse of Japanese
   reverse rightleft reading direction. Our reading direction has a
   definite impact on reading photographs, and their has probably too.


Good light,
(bored) Frantisek Vlcek
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RE: long lenses

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

Or you could do it my way. I carefully built up a system over many years.
Then out of the blue I stumbled onto a super sweet deal on a long pro
telephoto in another camera mount. Then I started selling my old stuff and
adding down into the new system. Sometimes the best laid plans get hijacked.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Kane
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 10:47 PM
To: Pentax Discuss
Subject: long lenses


Woah,

   I need to really cut back on caffine and Ebay . . . I just found
myself bidding on a 1000/11 on ebay.  It's got a BIN of 699.  Now I
realize that I really don't WANT a 1000, I really want a 300/4 or 30/4.5
. . .

   . . . ok, so where do I start with the 12 step program?  Do I buy all
the lenses I want FIRST, or what?  Maybe I should start with with a new
camera body?  ohhh yeah!

Illinolis Bill  [proud owner of an LX]
(Is it Friday yet?)
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RE: MZ-S Film-rewind Problem (was/still is MZ-S Imprinting Problem)

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

That's OK the early Maxxum 9 cameras had a software glitch so they had to do
recalls on all the early ones to load in new software. The current ones can
get sent in for a free upgrade to add the 3 extra functions of the 9ti
model.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 9:22 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: MZ-S Film-rewind Problem (was/still is MZ-S Imprinting
Problem)


OK,

Just spoken to Pentax UK and their MZ-S Expert *assured* me that the data
imprinting happens on a per-frame-shot basis, NOT during the film rewind.
So we're now back to TWO questions:
1. Anyone had any problems with MZ-S film rewind (particularly - though not
only - with bulk-loaded film)?
2. Anyone had any problems with MZ-S imprinting on certain types of film?

Pentax have said they would need the camera back which is not exactly ideal
for an 8-week old flagship SLR  :-(

Thanks
P.

Paul Wilkinson


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RE: Second Camera Body Recommendations

2001-12-11 Thread Kent Gittings

There are 2 schools of thought on that Tom. I like the 2 equal body version
myself. However I don't have that. Some pros I know have the top body as
their primary and the next one down as a secondary. Sometimes what comes
into play is the fact you might not want to walk around in some locales with
your most expensive body. Or you might want one slightly cheaper for other
reasons. Or you want your second body to be good but lighter. (F5 and F100.
EOS-1v and EOS-3, Maxxum 9 and Maxxum 7).
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 9:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Second Camera Body Recommendations


Not a direct responce to you, ED, but a question that always comes up in my
mind when people start asking about second bodies. On this list and amongst
a most of the hobbiests I know, they always want a different body than the
one they have. Myself and most pros I have known, on the other hand, want
two identical bodies so we don't have to think about which one we are using
at the moment. I wonder why that is?

Ciao,
graywolf



- Original Message -
From: EWKPhoto [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax-Discuss@Pdml. Net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 9:45 PM
Subject: Second Camera Body Recommendations


 I currently own a Pentax PZ20 that I have been using for quite sometime.
I
 am beginning to shoot slide film, but would like to continue to shoot
prints
 as well. My wife also uses the camera to shoot when she is in the mood
 (mainly family prints).

 I am looking to get a second body to alleviate the slide/print problem (as
 well as the ability to have one camera per person).  I'll probably look to
 the used market for something that will handle my current lens set as well
 as offer the same or better functionality of the PZ20.  I might also go to
a
 new camera if the recommendation is for something in the ZX-30 range ($199
 less $40 rebate at BH).

 Lenses:
   SMC-FA f/3.5-4.7 28-80
   SMC-FA f/3.5-5.6 28-80
   SMC-FA f/4-5.6 70-200
   SMC-FA f/4.5-5.6 100-300

 Looking for recommendations.

 Thanks...
 Ed
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RE: Self enabled

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

Is it the 62mm or 67mm filter size version?
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bill Owens
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 3:07 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Self enabled


While browsing one of our local camera shops today I came across the Vivitar
Series 1 70-210/3.5 that's been on their website for several months.  It so
happened that the owner was available today and advised me he would sell it
for $99.00 US.  That was enough for me to do some self enabling, couldn't
resist.

Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: Self enabled

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

Actually all three are quite good, however the reputation of the three from
high to low is 62mm, 67mm, then F2.8-4. As a result the 62mm usually
commands the higher price. I have a 67mm one in my screwmount collection and
it is quite good.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John Glover
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 5:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Self enabled


The third version, the f/2.8-4.0, is the one I have and it is quite good
lens.  It seems to be very under-rated too from what I've read on Bob
Monahagn's website (http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/cult.html#steve).
I suppose that is because of the variable aperture perhaps. In any event,
there is a good discussion of the Vivitar Series 1's lens and this web site
gives a nice history of them.Anyone know where I SR1 200/3.0? :)

John


- Original Message -
From: Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: Self enabled


  While browsing one of our local camera shops today I came across the
  Vivitar Series 1 70-210/3.5 that's been on their website for several
  months.  It so happened that the owner was available today and advised
  me he would sell it for $99.00 US.  That was enough for me to do some
  self enabling, couldn't resist.

 Which version, Bill - the first-generation with the 67mm filter
 threads, or the second-generation w/62mm (the version I used to use a
 lot)?

 Fred
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RE: 135mm 1.8 or faster

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

Yes. Pentax made the A* 135/1.8 a very superb but pricey lens. Also in the
70-80's Sigma made a manual focus 135/1.8 in their XQ line that was
available in PK mount. Sun/Polaris/Spiratone made/sold a giant 135/1.8 in
the 70's with an 82mm filter size. It's the cheapest value if you can find
them. McBroom's has the last one averaging between $125-175USD. The Sigma
goes for around $300USD or so used. Neither of the others are close to the
Pentax in absolute quality but they are all well built all metal lenses. I
have 1 of the Sigma's in PK mount and 2 of the others (1 Polaris and 1
Spiratone) in M42 ES mount (all of these lenses are interchangeable YS
mounts although the PK mount is factory installed only and can't be switched
between lenses by a user like the rest of the YS mounts can).
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kevin Waterson
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 12:07 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 135mm 1.8 or faster


I am looking for 135mm lense, can be manual or AF
I need one about f1.8, does such a creature exist?

Kind regards
Kevin
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RE: PZ-1p vs. ZX-5n

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

The grip is the main reason I always gave the Z-1p a pass.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Seaman
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 3:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: PZ-1p vs. ZX-5n


Timothy,

I bought a ZX-M soon after they were introduced, and I've had the same
ZX-5 body for about 5 years.   I just got a Z-1 a day or two ago, and
haven't even had a chance to put film through it yet, but I can give some
immediate impressions.

The TTL flash was the main reason I replaced my Super-A with the ZX-5,
and I haven't been disappointed.  Of course there have been occasions where
the shot has been under-exposed, but I can always see why it happened and
why I should have dialed in some exposure compensation.  A full 99% of the
time, though, I just put it into spot metering mode and fire away, using a
powerful AF-500FTZ because my subjects are often 30 feet or more away.  I do
a lot of nature photography (insects and birds and anything else which looks
interesting), and I use an awful lot of flash, so I've had plenty of time to
learn whether the metering is good or not.  I can't comment on the flash
metering accuracy of the Z-1, because I haven't used it yet, but the ZX-5
seems good.

I got the Z-1 solely because it has the 1/250 flash sync, but if you're
not doing the type of long-range nature photography I do then this is
unlikely to be any better than the ZX-5's 1/100 flash.  Two things stood out
when I started handling the Z-1: (1) compared to a ZX-M or ZX-5, this is one
bulky and heavy brute!  I don't know the actual figures, but the ZX-5 seems
only slightly heavier to me than the ZX-M; however, the Z-1 is much heavier.
  On the Z-1, the shutter release is located near the front of a very large
grip which extends almost an inch forward from the camera body.  I'm not
sure how well I'll cope with this, because I have carpal tunnel problems in
my right hand.  Even for an unafflicted user, it's very bulky, though I'm
sure not more than most Canon, Nikon and other cameras.  Time will tell if
this is a real issue for me, or not; (2) the Z-1 is far more complex and
less intuitive to use than the ZX-5.  The ZX-5 is virtually identical to the
ZX-M, and has always had everything I wanted.  Even setting the shutter
speed on the Z-1 isn't obvious, though I'm sure I'll soon get used to it.
Check to see whether any of the 18 Pentax Functions appeal to you, otherwise
they won't add anything to your photographic experience.  For myself, I can
imagine using the Image Size Tracking feature, at least if I had a long auto
lens to do it with!
Of course the Z-1's extra size, weight and complexity do make one feel
more professional and give one an undeniable ego boost ;^)  You'll soon be
winking as much as those LX users 8^O

For you, a point in favor of the ZX-5 over the Z-1 is that the ZX-5 uses
the same batteries as the ZX-M, whereas the PZ-1 uses a single 2CR5.  If you
continue to use the ZX-M, then you'll be buying and carrying two sets of
batteries, plus spares.

I focus manually even with my auto-focus lens (SMC Pentax-FA 100mm f2.8
and Sigma 15-35mm), so I can't comment on the auto-focus ability of any of
these bodies - but I do know that the ZX-M is lousy at auto-focus, and the
built-in flash isn't much good, either!

As far as sturdiness is concerned, both the ZX-5 and the PZ-1p are much,
much more solid than a ZX-M.  I'm mostly thinking about the solidness of the
body, but it's also true of the cosmetics - very soon after I got my ZX-M,
fully one half of the right hand dial was blank, because the shutter speed
numbers wore off!  I'm also having to do some testing to see whether the
mirror is locating properly, because it seems like I might be having trouble
focussing accurately (I'm not sure if this is real or just imagined until
I've completed the tests).
I treat my equipment pretty roughly, backpacking it around the planet,
throwing unpadded lenses and bodies together and so on, and in the five
years I've had the ZX-5 I've never had any problems, apart from the 1/60th
lens issue I mentioned in recent emails - and even that problem seems to
have spontaneously vanished.  My understanding is that the PZ-1P is in a
different league than the ZX-5 for sturdiness, I think the PZ-1 has a metal
body versus the ZX-5's polycarbonate, but I could well be wrong on that.
But it doesn't really matter unless you're going to be extremely severe with
the camera, because as I say, even the ZX-5 has taken an awful lot of
punishment from me.

I've put together a quick page with the three camera bodies on it, with
comments, as well as the Pentax Function chart Bob kindly supplied to me:

http://www.richard-seaman.com/Me/Photography/CameraBodies/index.html

If you want to check the flash metering of the ZX-5, look at the
following page; almost all of the insect photos were taken with the flash as
primary light source

RE: Pentax Ads

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

Aussies are notorious for hating any of their countrymen who actually make a
living at what they like doing. Especially if that fame is outside
Australia. And their wives aren't Aussie either (Paul's first was).
Check the history and you will find that the reason the British used the
Aussie troops in WWI at Gallipoli and in WWII in North Africa mainly is that
they were so hard to control and lacked military discipline that they wanted
to use them as far from the UK and their own units as possible.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Christian Skofteland
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 11:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Pentax Ads


My wife is Australian and had no idea who Steve Irwin was until she moved to
the US.

Funny how two Aussies that are hated in their own country (Steve and Paul
Hogan) have become icons in America...  Oh, and the other thing my wife
constantly tells me is that Fosters is for export only.  No Aussie in
his/her right mind would drink it!  Anybody for a VB?

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


 
  - Original Message -
  From: Paul Jones [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:25 AM
  Subject: Re: Pentax Ads
 
 
   i hadn't thought of it that way, as he being ours spokesman.
  
   I wonder if he is a decent photographer. i kinda doubt he is.
  
   I hope Americans dont  see him as a Spokesman for Australia!
  
  
   - Original Message -
   From: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 3:57 PM
   Subject: Re: Pentax Ads
  
  
My son (recently 5) loves to watch Irwin and I don't mind watching
  things
bite him. I mentally retitle his show Amazingly Dumb things to do
 with
Dangerous Animals. :-) But, hey, he's our spokesman now... (sort
of)
   
Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
I really disliked  Steve Irwin and i think to most Australians he
is
 a
   bit
of a joke. He's alot more popular in the US from what i see than
here
  in
Aus.  Now however I think i like him more since he shoots with
Pentax
  :)

Regards,
Paul
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RE: New Pentax digital SLR

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

If this is true the Olympus will have one big built in disadvantage that is
the same one the Contax has. Because they are using a new lens line there
are no used lenses available so initial costs will be extremely high. The
entire advantage
of a 35mm type lens mount digital camera is that lots of glass from old to
new is available to use on it. No matter if the Contax has 6 MP and
interchangeable lenses if the first lens you need to buy for your shooting
costs you the camera plus an extra $2k it won't sell even in a 1:10 ratio to
something like the EOS-1D which would allow somebody to get in at close to
1/2 the costs with several advantages depending on your type of shooting. If
Olympus does do this it better be under $2k or they will be in the dead
camera maker category in another 5 years just from the RD costs if they
can't sell enough of them.
Kent Gittings
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Eric Lawton
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 1:05 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: New Pentax digital SLR


Several times now people have alluded to this Olympus interchangeable lens
digital camera.  Is there any information available on it?  It seems like
olympus might really have the upperhand hand here since (I assume) they will
be designing an entirely new lens line specifically for digital - maybe even
stardardizing on a less than full frame chip.

Eric

From: Pål Audun Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Nothing of the sort. They did shelve the IS 300 because it wasn't
competitive (obsolete). They have release the Optio series which is highly
contemporary, competitive and far from obsolete. They same can be done for
digital slr's. Just look at Olympus soon to be released digital slr with
interchangeable lenses. It may set the standard.


Pål
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RE: Australians

2001-12-10 Thread Kent Gittings

Actually I admire and respect them also. I personally think Paul was a
stinker for that but I happen to like Steve Irwin. Anybody the English look
down on is my type of people. Met several of them during Nam. Only problem
was I wasn't a big drinker and they were.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Christian Skofteland
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 2:12 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Australians


They hate Paul Hogan because he dumped his wife of 30-odd years for Linda
Kazowlski (his co-star in Crocodile Dundee).

I will not respond to the rest Kent because I admire and respect Australians
and I won't get into a flame war about it.

If you want to learn about the TRUE Australian psyche read In a Sunburned
Country  The book has good insight about how Aussies view themselves and
their relationship to England and the world.

Christian Skofteland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: Pentax Ads


 Aussies are notorious for hating any of their countrymen who actually make
a
 living at what they like doing. Especially if that fame is outside
 Australia. And their wives aren't Aussie either (Paul's first was).
 Check the history and you will find that the reason the British used the
 Aussie troops in WWI at Gallipoli and in WWII in North Africa mainly is
that
 they were so hard to control and lacked military discipline that they
wanted
 to use them as far from the UK and their own units as possible.
 Kent Gittings
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RE: OT: SUV's - was: Illegal Street Photography?

2001-12-07 Thread Kent Gittings

The problem in metropolitan areas like WDC is that if you leave an opening
over one car length or more between you and the guy in front somebody will
move into that space.
One of the exercises taught at the Bondurant school is where you approach a
set of lights at 60 MPH, your light changes to red and you have to
immediately switch to another lane which has the green light and you have
obstacles in the lane divisions only about 1-2 car lengths in front of you
and you have to keep from hitting them.
The 2 second rule is a worst case amount based on the 95% of Americans who
can't really drive. If you ever looked at the examples of that they pretty
much used zero good driving techniques and slowed the reflex response to
something approaching what one of these average drivers would be doing who
wasn't paying attention. In fact I used to get a laugh out of their time
calculation about how long it took from seeing a problem to actually
braking. It was many times the measured amount it takes me (something around
.15-.18 second for me). In fact in my case in that time frame of .2 seconds
or less I can actually decide not to brake. Often I've been in an emergency
situation where my foot went to stand on the brakes and by the time the .2
seconds was almost up I analyzed the situation and decided that braking was
either the wrong response or not needed just as my foot touched the pedal.
The 95% will generally stomp on the brake even if the thought processes are
working well enough to correctly gage the situation.
Another question on driving ability. How many of you could actually drive
your car at speed (55-125 MPH) through a gap only 1 inch wider than the
vehicle without ever touching the paint time after time? Very few, even less
than the good driving 5% have that experience or ability. It's tied to how
spatially you perceive your vehicle. I see the improper side all the time.
Like when a person wants to turn right or pass somebody on the right at a
stop situation and they have a gap as much as 1 foot wider than their car
but they have so little conception of the location of the corners of their
vehicle that they can't seem to negotiate the gap. How many remember the old
curb feelers people used to put on the corners of their cars in the past
(some still do)?

Let's get back to photography as I usually talk about this on my automotive
groups.
Anybody interested in this stuff will probably find I'm going to do another
year of instructing at the Car Guys high performance driving weekends on the
East coast this year.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 2:36 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: SUV's - was: Illegal Street Photography?


- Original Message -
From: Kent Gittings [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: RE: OT: SUV's - was: Illegal Street Photography?


 Tailgating is sometimes relative. In my case I know exactly
what my reflex
 time is (uncommonly short) and from racing on an other car's
bumper at up to
 140 MPH I've learned how to predict a driver's response based
on how they
 are driving. On the other hand I never get closer than I know
I and my
 particular vehicle can respond to an emergency. I also don't
look at the
 vehicle in front unless we are alone but instead look sort of
through it to
 vehicles in front of that. Plus I always unconsciously look
around for
 escape avenues just in case. This has saved me more than once
in a car or on
 a motorcycle.
 Kent Gittings

Probably better still to observe the 2 second rule. I have an
annoying habit of testing tailgaters reflexes. If you think you
may be putting yourself in a position where the escape route is
going to be needed, why not just back off?
The person ahead whose nerves you are fraying will thank you for
it.
L8R
Bill
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RE: Variable zoom question - FA28-70/4

2001-12-07 Thread Kent Gittings

That is why constant aperture zooms generally cost more than variable ones.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Christopher Lillja
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 2:52 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Variable zoom question - FA28-70/4


This whole thing seems to hinge on using the term aperture and F
interchangeably. I don't believe they are. F is commonly used to denote
relative aperture. And some folks seem to be using aperture to refer to
absolute aperture. What a huge urination contest over some sloppy
language

Not to pick on Kent but, incidentally, in regards to his comment:

First off what you say could be done however making the
diaphragm change with focal length is the hard way to do it. In fact I don't
know of a single lens designer who could make that work very well because
most zooms don't have much in the way of zoom/aperture direct interaction.


My FA 28-70/4 does exactly that and it does it very, very well. Great little
lens. Since the lens mechanically varies the absolute aperture in proportion
to focal length setting, relative aperture F is maintained - even when it
is used on my K1000, ME, or MZ5. On my other zooms, the mechanical F
scale/setting only indicates the correct relative aperture at the widest
setting.

Chris Lillja
School Publications Guy
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RE: Implications for optics WAS: New Pentax digital SLR

2001-12-07 Thread Kent Gittings

I think you are missing some info. The chip in the Dimage 7 is the same one
that is in the Nikon D-1x which is 5.24 MP and 23.7mm x 15.6mm. It's a
matter of semantics.
 When you see a CCD array listed as 2/3 inch it doesn't refer to the actual
size but to the ratio when compared to a 35mm frame. If you multiple the
36x24 dimensions by 2/3 you get 24x16 which is the same as the Nikon chip
just that they are using the exact measurement not a ratio. The Canon D30
uses another brand of chip which is 3.25 MP and 22.7x15.1 which is
considered close enough to be listed as a 2/3 size chip. Which means a 1.6x
lens ratio. The chips that say 1/1.8 inch (Dimage 5 is an example) are
physically approximately 20mm x 13.3mm.
The Canon EOS-1D uses a 4.1 MP 28.7x19.1mm array which might be called a 4/5
inch array if anybody else used it.
This camera is not so much designed as something a D30 user would move to
but something an EOS-1 user would use because the focal length aspect ratio
change is not as great so keeping your existing lenses would still make
sense in this case. Difference between a 200/1.8 being a 260/1.8 verses a
320/1.8 with the D30.
Personally if it wasn't for the cost I'd think the EOS-1D is about the most
perfect digital camera I've seen yet. It's spec favor my type of shooting.
Unfortunately it doesn't use either Pentax or Minolta lenses.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mike Johnston
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 3:40 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Implications for optics WAS: New Pentax digital SLR


Kent G. wrote:

 I agree completely. Smaller chip size is often preferable because the same
 aspect ratio can be done with a smaller lighter lens. Whether anybody
 settles on 1.3x or 1.6x remains to be seen.


Kents,
I know you're agreeing with ME here so for me to agree right back again is
getting a little ridiculous, but I just wanted to second this. I truly think
that the opportunity to standardize on a smaller chip size is one of the
great opportunities of the digital revolution, for the very reason you
mention--smaller, lighter, faster, cheaper lenses.

The pro-level f/2.8-speed 28-70 and 80-200 lenses we put up with today are
ridiculous. They're monstrosities--very expensive, and huge. The fact is,
35mm wasn't designed for zoom lenses and it's really too large for them. I'd
like to see commonly used lenses get back down into the size and weight
range of primes during the classic era. The makers have the opportunity to
do that by standardizing on a somewhat smaller CCD size. I fervently hope
they do it.

The next shot in this battle will likely be heard when the Olympus-Kodak SLR
comes out at PMA next year. It will be the FIRST interchangeable-lens SLR
built from the ground up for digital, i.e., not meant for existing 35mm
lenses. Should be really, really interesting.

--Mike

P.S. For an extreme example of what this can mean, look at the 28-200mm
equivalent lens on the Minolta Dimage 7. Now, that's a crappy camera, and
the CCD size is TOO small, but then lens is smaller than a 100mm f/2.8
SMCP-M lens, and it's fast, f/2.8 to 3.5, and it's a SUPERB little lens,
really a bit of a masterpiece.

Granted, this is an extreme example, but just imagine a Pentax digital SLR
that looks like the MZ-S that you could buy an 80-200 f/2 for that was the
size and weight of, say, the current 100mm FA macro, or a 28-70 that was the
size of, say, the 77mm Limited and _faster_ than f/2.8. This is what smaller
CCDs offer. The implications for optics are really exciting.
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RE: which 2 lenses and a teleconverter make the best combo?

2001-12-07 Thread Kent Gittings

As far as I know you can't use a TC with a wide angle lens of 24mm. I think
about 50mm is the lower limit.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Alan Chan
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 3:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: which 2 lenses and a teleconverter make the best combo?


I know I would never go this route, but since you asked, my solution is:
24mm, 100mm macro, 2X-TC
This will cover 24, 48, 100 and 200mm.

regards,
Alan Chan

We haven't a good equipment argument make the rounds for awhile.

My question,

if you had to limit yourself to two (2) Pentax _primes_ and one (1) Pentax
teleconverter, which ones and why? (i.e. how would that combo support your
style of photography better than some other combo?)

Anyone game?


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RE: teleconverter 2x

2001-12-07 Thread Kent Gittings

Grips are easy to imitate. Sure it doesn't say APS? Then it would be the old
name for Kenko.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of David Brooks
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 7:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: teleconverter 2x


(With apologize to Mike)(i'm a long lenser :-) )
I recently inherited my Dad's camera equipment
the hard way,and 1 piece in the bag is a 2x converter.
Out side markings as follows:
N.P.S.  2x converter  lens made in japa
It does not say Pentax on it anywere but it has the
same knarl grip the Taks have so i think it might be
as he rarely bought 3rd party.

My ??? is,does the converter affect the meter reading
of the camera(screwmount conveter so using SP500 or the
SP or S3)or will the meter give a proper output.
Also will it softenmy primes or should they
stay fairly sharp.

Thanks in advance

Dave


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

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