I looked up the part number for OM603 valve seals and ordered them
(aftermarket) from Rusty wy back during the head replacement job.
When I replaced them due to the smoking, I ordered the same part
number from Rusty but this time specified OE dealer parts, and got the
other style that time. If
log.com/live/A806914288HEB.JPG
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 18:54:33 -0400
> From: "Kevin J. Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL P
chain, if that's at zero like it should be,
second step is to set pump timing. I'm told some people can come
pretty close with NO tools by using a mirror to look for the little
tab through the hole in the IP but I've never attempted this.
:-)
HTH
or so I'm told.)
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2005 19:45:01 -0400
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM601 injection pump timing
>
>
delivery but I'm not sure about
that.
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 08:05:20 -0400
> From: Andrew Cunningham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Boost line check valve?
>
> Casey,
>
About the wiring problem, I'd expect all years to have that issue. On
the W124, every model between 1992-95 had this issue. The replacement
harnesses you buy today, brand-new, are made of the SAME stuff and
will have the SAME problem in another 10+ years. (Hey - don't shoot
the messenger, OK?)
Di
for high 9's at low 140's. (I wonder if you dropped a 240D out of an
airplane if it would ever reach 140, lol!)
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
recent (over 5 years or 50kmi old),
measure them and replace as needed - details are here:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/124_engine_mounts.pdf
(122kb PDF file)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:17:32 -0400
> Fr
for 6+ months in an effort to curtail the insane
amount of spam I was getting (100+ per day).
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:27:02 -0500
> From: Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] for Dave M.
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PRO
d be one of a number of
things - not sure where to start. I'm not a W126 expert so I'll let
someone else pipe up on that topic.
:-)
HTH,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 08:39:48 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Nick Gough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
m together with the
key on (or engine running). The electric fans should turn on low speed
when these wires are shorted. This red switch turns the fans on low
when refrigerant pressure reaches 16 bar, and turns them off at 12 bar
(approx 240psi and 180psi).
:-)
HTH,
Da
s and listen to see if the idle
speed increases. If not, the ELR is bad.
;-)
-Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 06:03:13 -0400
> From: Peter Arnold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 300SDL ELR
>
> I need to trouble shoot thi
(which I think is safe for PAG/POE oils,
it just doesn't work all that great in hot climates.)
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:22:14 -0500
> From: "Royce Engler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12
> T
whole set, should be $20 or so from
Rusty. Much cheaper than metal injection lines, which are about
$30-$40 each, or something ridiculous like that. (Don't ask how I
know... or just look at some of the other photos in that directory.)
Enjoy!
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-
document (200kb PDF file):
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/134a_retrofit.pdf
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2005 04:31:08 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12
>
>
> R-134 w
k Death to pooferate the system.
Back on soapbox... if you have an R-12 system, don't ever put PAG/POE
oil in it! Use a mineral-oil compatible refrigerant only (R-12,
AutoFrost, Duracool, etc).
=)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
> "Dav
rt the red switch, and if
you get voltage on one side of the resistor and not the other, try
shorting out the resistor. That would make the fan run on high speed.
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 13:39:44 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re:
emove cruise
actuator, remove pump, installation is reverse. Special lock tool
highly recommended (~$30). A competent indy should be no more than 4-5
hours, IMO. Probably twice that for a first time DIY.
:-)
HTH,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2005 15:
90 Degree AMG V8
626.0 BHP @ 575.3 ft lbs
0-60 3.8
207mph
Price - $535,281
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
states, if
the car originally had 134a - seems bizarre to me.) That includes
Duracool, btw. But hey, don't take my word for it... read it here as
part of the EPA test study guide:
http://www.imaca.org/sg-13.htm#flammable
:-)
-Dave M. (EPA 609 certified as of last night - woo-hoo!)
>
retty high up my shopping list of old Benzes to
acquire.
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> From: Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] E55 AMG wagon in Car&Driver
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Sounds like in
Joe,
That's a good question - might be a loophole, if one actually wanted
to do this. However to me it would be highly undesireable because you
would need to contaminate a virgin mineral oil system with POE in
order to do the 134a conversion. I'd be more interested in keeping it
PAG/POE-free tha
Kaleb,
The M120 motor is very closely related to both the M119 and the M104,
I believe. It's a pretty solid engine mechanically... but
electrically, well, all the M119/M104 problems apply - wiring
harnesses, EZL failure (ok, that's not real common), TBA (that's more
common), etc. There are two of
in a
major crash, no. That's one of the major reasons I drive Mercedes...
anything short of a ready-mix truck with 12 yards of concrete on
board, and the odds are heavily in your favor! I kind of like Subaru
(especially the WRX STi) but I don't think they fare much better in
the c
Kaleb,
EZL is the electronic ignition module/brain. On the M119 cars, they're
about $3k new, very hard to find used, and $750-$1000 used. Not a
common failure but I heard of several in the V8 community in the past
year or two. It's the kind of thing you keep your eyes out for and
grab a spare if y
If you mean the note at the end of the instructions, that was me, and
they were sold back when I sent the message to the old diesel list -
sorry. If you only need to replace the center vent pod, you can get
George Murphy's diaphragm kit for $5 (I think) plus S&H. Note that his
kits ONLY repair the
One tiny adjustment... the torque range neeed is, I believe, 30-40Nm,
not lb-ft... make sure you use the proper setting on your wrench.
Over-torquing can damage the pump. The torque procedure is listed in
the TDM (Tech Data Manual), not the normal service manual (don't ask
me why).
:-)
-dm
> ---
room of an S-class, I'd go with the 300SDL. I
would not want an OM617, he'd be doing valve adjustments every few
months...
;-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 11:54:06 -0400
> From: "Mathieu J. Cama" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Su
Peter,
Could you remind us again what the exact symptoms are, and if it
started suddenly or gradually?
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 05:57:31 -0400
> From: Peter Arnold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] I/P Delivery Seals
>
cream puff, let me know. Strong
preference given to examples with a documented replacement engine,
although if it's original and uses zero oil and the price was right, I
think that would be OK too (then I'd make him proactively replace the
rods!)
:-)
-Dave M.
> ---
imit, correct? The system seems to be sort of working as intended,
just at a higher temperature than it should. (???)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
1986 300E - 206kmi
charge is good although I will put gauges on it this
weekend to confirm that.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 22:01:12 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - compressor cuts off too soon?
>
>
> Hey Dave
R-12 (gasp!) and I hope the expansion valve is not the problem,
since that requires evacuation to repair, and the old R-12 valve is
not available from the dealer anymore (not sure if we can still get it
via aftermarket or not.) I'm still hoping for a simple fix with the
B10/6 evap sensor...
n how close you want to run to the freezing point.
I'll have to yank the sensor and test it, maybe tomorrow night. I hope
you are correct that they drift up over time. I can yank the one from
the parts car for comparison.
:-)
Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 09
r MB diesel. Of course it would be preferable to get one that
already has a rebuilt factory motor to avoid that little hassle.
:-(
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 22:39:17 -0500
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subjec
Kaleb,
I believe we can only get the updated rods and AFAIK, they're still
available. Current cost is about $160/ea wholesale. You need to pull
the oil pan AND head, as the piston can only be removed from the top
of the engine. Definitely a big job. I'd want to pull the motor, and
while it's apart
Oooo... nice car, and a new engine too! I almost snarfed coffee out my
nose when I saw the price, though. Looks like the seller is trying to
recoup the cost of that new engine - plus labor. OUCH... they're about
50% over book value...
=:-o
-dm
> --
> Date: Wed, 10 Aug
.. details to come in a seprate post.
:)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 21:02:39 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - compressor cuts off too soon?
>
> Hey Dave,
>
> Someone correct me if I am wron
he system loses enough charge to affect performance
(hopefully a few years from now), then I will replace the switch the
next time I need to open up the system. I'm not crazy about running it
without the safety, but it will have to do for now.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
&
he
shunt would need to be modified or removed to prevent evaporator
icing.
:-)
Best regards,
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
uld really pick up another
set before they stop carrying them or double the price! I had tried to
find them online at AutoZone.com but they don't seem to have them
availble for purchase except in retail stores.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 21:10
hat are useless to me. Part number 60072, I paid $37 plus S&H...
asking $35 with free S&H, OBO... Any takers? If not, I'll dump them on
eBay eventually. New in box, never used...
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
st it to my website eventually.
:-)
Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 06:24:27 -0400
> From: Bob DuPuy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 A/C question - UPDATE!
>
> Hey Dave,
> Thanks to you and Marshall for pointing this out! Wh
- d'oh! They don't fit. Now I'm stuck with a brand-new
> set of SPX / Robinair Enviro-Guard hoses (really nice set, actually)
> that are useless to me. Part number 60072, I paid $37 plus S&H...
> asking $35 with free S&H, OBO... Any takers? If not, I'll dump them on
> eBay eventually. New in box, never used...
>
> :-)
>
> --
> Dave M.
> Boise, ID
Bingo, Joe. In parallel on B10/6, in the left side of the heater box,
pretty close to the ignition/steering lock.
I would test your vent temps first... if 50-ish, go with the 80-85k
shunt, if it's already in the mid- to low-40's then try the 90k shunt.
As long as you stay over 36-38F min vent tem
Think we're talking apples & oranges here... adapters to connect R-12
hoses to an R-134a system won't help me. The female threaded fitting
on the R-134a hoses looks the same, but it is larger than on R-12
hoses. Guess they're off to eBay when I have a chance...
-dm
> -
this car has a dual-stage turbo setup... small turbo at low RPM, big
turbo at high RPM. WAY cool. I bet with a chip it would outrun the
'petrol' version.
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
-- Forwarded message --
From:
ate some of the time, on & off,
when the AC is engaged. This car has a dead diverter pod as well as
center vent, so I'm measuring from the side vents. The temp difference
would be minimal though. After all the pods are replaced I'll re-test
the system to make sure te
e W123 - weird setup.)
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 09:26:00 -0500
> From: "Royce Engler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Boy is my face red...
>
> My 300TD has been running REAL rough for a while. The other night I had a
Hey, that's a neat service! I uploaded the full file (30MB) here:
http://s18.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=10BSMZ90G5X1D3DC2T3RWJ5LHF
:-)
-dm
> --
> Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 11:34:40 -0400
> From: TimothyPilgrim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: BMW 535D video
>
cted in the middle of the 1987 production run...
all 124's after 1987 have an external 30A flat fuse.
:-)
-Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 01:48:29 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Dead
>
>
> (snip)
>
> A
e.)
I believe 'ETA' is 'Electronic Throttle Actuator', AKA the TBA
(Throttle Body Actuator)... same thing, different names. About $1k for
that part on an M119 engine. Luckily mine had it replaced just before
I bought the car.
:-)
-Dave M.
>
What you see on eBay at that link is a cheap copy tool, not the
genuine Mercedes tool (which is made by Iwis, btw, the chain
manufacturer). The cheap eBay tool will not press on the middle plate
for the new OE style master links, the genuine tool (with appropriate
jaws) will. (The aftermarket maste
Oh great - I'm about to replace a 20-year old tumbler, thinking that
it's safer than waiting for it to act up and then seize, then I read
THIS:
http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2334
I'm replacing it anyway, and hoping Neil's experience was a fluke...
:-(
-
ero, like it should:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/OM60x_Timing_Chain_TSB.pdf
(70kb PDF)
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 11:17:20 -0500
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[
s.com/forum/showthread.php?t=528
Contact Rusty if you need to buy the pods (800-741-5252).
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Actually, I would part with it, but for a price... probably more than
most on this list would care to cough up, I'm afraid!! I need to post
some current photos of the completed car, I don't have many (any?)
with the enormous iForged wheels mounted.
;-)
-dm
> -
privilege of making the key work again. I
was not happy either.
:-/
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:50:43 -0400
> From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Locked Ignition
>
> Joe Mendyka wrote:
> > other t
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] New lock tumblers failing?
>
> Dave M. wrote:
> > Oh great - I'm about to replace a 20-year old tumbler, thinking that
> > it's safer than waiting for it to act up and then seize, then I read
labor time.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 21:54:57 -0400
> From: "Robert Massmann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 87 190D Front crank seal repair
>
> List I am going to try an replace the front crank shaft seal on my 87 190D.
it took about 2 hours. I could probably do it again in
under 30 minutes...
:)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 11:56:51 -0400
> From: "Robert Massmann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Question about vacuum shut-off servo replac
Here's some screen shots of the WIS, if you were wondering what it's like:
http://vzone.virgin.net/titanium.34/kms/wis/wis.htm
BTW, the 124 (and 126?) coverage is the same as on the CD-ROM's, but
adds transmission repair information. The later models (210, 211, 203,
etc) have more complete inform
If it needs a new ICU (probably meaning the LH fuel injection module),
they are available used from salvage yards in the $250-$500 range. No
need to plunk down $3k for a brand new one. These don't often fail,
though. I'd look elsewhere first.
:-/
-dm
> ---
Oh my GAWD, where did you score that? I thought I was doing great to
pick up a near-mint 300E for $2400 but that was an '86 with 200k on
the clock. I'd have soiled myself finding a 92 for the same price
(with body updates and full leather, standard in 92!). After fixing
all the assorted little thin
for MY use.)
YMMV, etc etc, flame suit on, yadda yadda...
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 11:33:44 -0400
> From: Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Oh oh, another oil thread
> >
> > It's the People
ell as A/C performance, so it's worth a look!
:-)
Best regards,
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
what's the product used on the A/C system that seems to help your car?
:-)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 08:36:02 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] proper and best fluids
>
>
> I am new to the list and have a f
We already have the website - it's just that some folks prefer the
email format. Here's the link:
http://www.buymbparts.com/forum/index.php
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 07:57:20 -0700 (PDT)
>
--
> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 11:30:32 -0500
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] website...
>
> thats a parts website
>
> Dave M. wrote:
>
> > We already have the website - it's just that some
m. Avoid Fram,
Penzoil, and STP like the plague.
:)
Dave M.
Boise, ID
> --
> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 13:39:23 -0500
> From: Don & Teresa Merriman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crazy to go 20K on any oil
>
>
> OK please don?t flame me
It's not hype. It's well documented fact. What most people forget is
that you don't just dump M-1 into your engine and blithely drive 20kmi
before changing it. You need to do oil analysis on YOUR engine at
certain intervals to make sure your interval is correct. After you've
tested at (for example)
After you factor in cost of shipping the sample, etc, it's roughly $20
per analysis. I get the "extended drain" kits from Snider Petroleum
which include testing for soot percentage:
http://www.sniderpetroleum.com/oilanalysis.html
I usually get 3-4 at a time to save on S&H from
The M-1 oil filter was rated fairly well, it's one of the filters I
like and would use on my cars. I've never seen a cartridge filter
though, only spin-ons, so no M-1 filter for MB diesels yet (although
you can get them for M103 gassers).
For more than you ever wanted to know about oil filters, re
Bah, that's mostly Amsoil sales hype. ;-) That link is comparing ONE
particular Amsoil product to ONE particluar M-1 product. And, it's a
weight not approved for use in Mercedes engines (being an xW-30, which
is too thin.)
Amsoil actually buys their base stocks from Mobil and then adds their
propr
FEW
> things to worry about, coupled with low maintenance costs. It seems
> utterly ABSURD to decorate the innards of a nearly indestructible
> engine with the equivalent of caviar, while fattening Exxon-Mobil
> profits (which aren't as high as our GNP... yet).
>
>
> On 8
but that's not a magical additive like most claim to be -
it's specifically for cleaning. Neat stuff actually.
:-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:18:39 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] proper and best fluids
>
>
It's simple, really - easier than the email forum IMO. Just go to the
web once per day and click the 'New Posts' link. Then read the threads
you're interested in and ignore the rest. Works like a charm. Could
get cumbersome if traffic were 100x what it is today, but for now it's
great. It's also a
in my cars. YMMV, etc.
=)
-dm
> --
> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:09:35 -0400
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] proper and best fluids
>
> Dave M. wrote:
> > In addtion
There are benefits to using M-1 that are irrelevant to climate. For
example the OM6x0 hydraulic lifters often won't be quiet without
synthetics. And I've got better things to do than kill my precious
time changing oil every month or two instead of once per year.
Since there's no extra cost involve
The bottle they provide for the sample is very small... about 2
ounces. I test at oil change time but you don't need to, you can suck
a sample out of the crankcase at any time to send in for analysis.
=)
-dm
> --
> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 09:46:05 -0400
> From: andrew
That is SO true. The suckers are out buying fuel line magnets and
air-intake turbulators, along with that PVI platinum vapor injection
widget, which combined will give them 239% improvement in MPG. Oh and
let's not forget radar jammers and insect-repelling whistles. There
are lots of snake oils and
idle). I have a nearly-new 115A alternator for sale from my E500 if
anyone wants it (I upgraded to a 150A). It will bolt up to any MB
engine from 1984-up with a serpentine belt.
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 13:44:54 -0500
> From: "Potter, T
That's exactly right. Two list members who tried the 0W-40 had lifter
noise return on their OM603 engines, and one noticed a significant
increase in iron wear particles in the oil analysis. Reverting to
5W-40 or 15W-50 cured both issues... lifters quieted down and iron
wear went back to normal.
An
As Marshall already mentioned, which you would have noticed if you had
been reading your messages instead of making snide jabs at Kaleb...
the M-1 0W-40 is on the thin side of a 40 rating. I vaguely recall
something about the Amsoil 0W-30 having similar specs? Despite being
awfully close numericall
And THAT, David, is why I'm not interested in bypass filters. You do
get near-virgin oil in the engine at all times, but there's nearly
zero cost savings over just using extended drain intervals. Changing
the TP every 2.5k and adding a quart would be somewhat of a nuisance
to me. I would consider d
For those of you who missed the memo, and since Mobil won't fess up to
it... Delvac-1 is now sold as Mobil-1 'Truck & SUV' Formula but a lot
cheaper. Usually $5/qt, or if you're willing to go to the Evil Empire,
Mall-Wart has 5-qt jugs for ~$19.89. That's about $3.98/qt for
Delvac-1, folks. If you
I'm interested too. Details, please! Also, does it work only with
mineral oil, or with PAG/POE oils too...?
:)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 07:30:15 -0700
> From: "Gabriel S." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] A/C tre
, and possibly provide some
entertainment for the neighbors & local fire department...
;-)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 12:07:02 -0400
> From: andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 84 300Dt Climate Control
>
> In t
-0400
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Blower fuse upgrade
> Dave M. wrote:
> Note that this is ONLY for the ACC blower fan, and is ONLY allowed
> with a properly installed 30A fuse. Early W124's had the 25A ceramic
> but from the mid-1987 model ye
OMG. That's insane. Remember that reaction time does not affect the ET or
MPH, it only affects if you win or lose the race against the guy in the
other lane. Anyway, 13.1 sec @ 106mph... that's crazy.
More pics here:
http://www.nettiauto.com/viewVehicle.php?id_car=335361
Video here (40MB):
ht
hing (over 200kph).
>From a DIESEL!!
-Dave M. :)
--
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 13:33:01 -0500
From: Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Baddest W123 ever (OM606 powered!)
>
>
> I'm not sure the chevelle SS396 I had in HS could do th
e files are not
allowed to be sent. Well isn't THAT just freakin' great. Anyone have a
workaround that doesn't involve posting files to an FTP server?
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Found a thread with specs and pics - drol:
http://forums.thecarlounge.net/zerothread?id=1996708
730Nm of torque
=:-O
Dave M.
Boise, ID
--
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 15:49:11 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Passat diesels
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why not? It may
John,
Potomac German Auto (1-888-873-3236) has two of that exact part number in
stock for $125 each. Are you sure the ECU is bad? They don't often fail...
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 10:11:54 -0400
From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECT
In the podunk towns I live next to, diesel popped to $3.25/gallon this
morning. Might be $3.50 by sundown. If I can get virgin VO for $2.50/gal,
point me to the vendor, please. I'll keep track of every drop and remit my
DOT taxes promptly, honest Injun.
-dm
--
Dat
The writeup, and photos of the installation process, are on Rusty's forum:
http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584
:-)
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
peed (where I have to back off the
throttle to keep EGT's from melting pistons.)
O_o
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
bit of oil vapor out the valve cover hole, and
sucking unfiltered air into the rubber intake snorkel.
=)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:01:44 -0400
> From: ANGELO GIAIMO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs
>
>
&g
ldn't be the radiator because it was only 4
years old. Guess what? It was the radiator. It's awfully hard to
diagnose, though. I replaced everything else and that was the only
thing left, so I took the gamble and it worked.
:-)
-Dave M.
>
with no loss in fuel economy, and possibly improved
shift characteristics.
:)
-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 20:05:48 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop
>
>
> my '86sdl with 225kmiles has a slow s
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